six 


_j  slaw  or  le 

^V  gw«j.  »**• -* 

made  f  rom  tnree  egg- .-- 
twelve  tablespoonfuls   c 

i,v>vj-'  ,     rreSLIll*     n*»  »•— 

tablespoonfuls   ot  .v1**^.^.    one    table- 
spoonfuls  of  melte  ^^  'half   a  table- 

^ssa^^-L 

one  of  sugar •..•«»<*1      ".    Th 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
GEORGE  HOLL 


AGRIC. 

LIBRARY 


/ 


THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


COPYRIGHT^  1890, 
BY  THE  BUTTERICK  PUBLISHING  COMPANY,  [LIMITED]. 


-Vh<e-fS 

METROPOLITAN 

CULTURE    SERIES. 


THE 

PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


FIRST    EDITION. 


NEW  YORK: 
THE  BUTTERICK   PUBLISHING  COMPANY,  [LIMITED). 

1890. 


"  Ah  I  happy  age  when  ladies  learn  to  bake, 
And  when  kings'  daughters  know  to  knead  a  cake. 
Rebecca  was  esteem'd  of  comely  hue, 
Yet  not  so  nice  her  comeliness  to  keep 
But  that  she  water  for  the  camels  drew." 

THOMAS  FULLER. 

"  The  turnpike  road  to  people's  hearts,  I  find, 
Lies  through  their  mouths,  or  I  mistake  mankind." 

DR.  WOLCOT. 


AGRUX 
LIBRA!" 


INTRODUCTION. 


A  BOOK  on  cookery  that  is  to  be  of  genuine  assistance 
alike  to  the  experienced  housewife  and  to  the  beginner 
must,  in  our  opinion,  possess  two  important  qualifica- 
tions ;  in  the  first  place,  the  dishes  and  preparations  pre- 
sented in  it  must  be  such  as  may  be  readily  made  up 
with  the  facilities  to  be  found  in  an  ordinary  household ; 
and  in  the  second  place,  all  instructions  and  directions 
should  be  couched  in  language  so  simple  that  every  one 
can  comprehend  them.  It  has  been  our  earnest  endeavor 
that  in  both  these  respects  the  present  work  shall  excel. 

The  recipes  are  eminently  practical  and  easy  to  follow, 
all  having  been  thoroughly  and  successfully  tested  by  the 
author;  and  in  their  selection  chief  attention  has  been 
given  to  those  unpretentious  yet  dainty  and  wholesome 
dishes  that  are  so  acceptable  and  appropriate  upon  the 
average  family  board. 

Among  the  admirable  features  of  the  book  deserving 


INTRODUCTION. 

of  special  mention  are  an  intelligent  but  not  too 
lengthy  dissertation  on  the  Chemistry  of  Food ;  a 
Cook's  Time-Table ;  a  chapter  on  Cookery  and  Simple 
Remedies  for  the  Sick;  a  list  of  Menus  for  all  occa- 
sions; a  Glossary  of  Terms  used  in  Cooking;  a  Table 
of  Measurements ;  helpful  talks  regarding  "  Small  Econ- 
omies," "Things  Worth  Knowing,"  and  "Miscella- 
neous Helps;"  and  lastly,  a  most  admirably  arranged 
index. 

When  we  add  that  the  work  is  from  the  pen  of  one 
whose  experience  entitles  her  to  a  position  of  foremost 
authority  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  culinary  science, 
we  have  said  all  that  is  needful  to  commend  the  book 
fully  and  heartily  to  the  world  of  women  as  a  complete 
and  reliable  guide  in  the  selection,  preparation  and  cook- 
ing of  food. 

THE  BUTTERICK  PUBLISHING  Co. 

{Limited}. 


CONTENTS. 


PREFATORY. 

DIFFERENCE  BETWEEN  THE  COOKERY  OF  THE  PAST  AND 
PRESENT.— WHAT  COOKERY  is. — THE  EFFECT  OF  HEAT, 
COLD,  WATER,  AND  AIR  IN  COOKERY,  .  -13 

THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 

WHY  WE  EAT. — WHAT  TO  EAT. — WHEN  TO  EAT  CER- 
TAIN FOODS.  ......  17 

THE  KITCHEN. 

PLANS  FOR  THE  ROOM. — CARE  OF  ROOM  AND  UTENSILS. — 
UTENSILS  NEEDED. — LIST  OF  UTENSILS,  WITH  PRICES. 
— CUTS  OF  SOME  OF  THE  UTENSILS  NEEDED,  .  .  25 

MARKETING. 

.SEASONS  FOR  THE  DIFFERENT  MEATS. — BEEF,  WITH  CUT 
OF  Ox. — VEAL,  WITH  CUT  OF  CALF. — MUTTON,  WITH 
CUT  OF  SHEEP. — LAMB,  WITH  CUT  OF  LAMB. — VENI- 
SON, WITH  CUT  OF  DEER. — PORK,  WITH  CUT  OF  PIG. — 
How  TO  SELECT  POULTRY,  FISH,  GAME,  EGGS  AND 
APPLES,  .  .  .  .  .  -47 

PLAIN  DIRECTIONS. 

How  TO  DO  ROASTING. — BROILING. — BOILING. — FRYING. — 
How  TO  CLARIFY  FAT  FOR  FRYING. — How  TO  DO  SAU- 
TEING. — BRAISING. — LARDING. — (WITH  CUT  OF  LARDED 
MEAT.)— BONING  AND  STEAMING.— THE  COOK'S  TIME 
TABLE  FOR  ROASTING. — BROILING. — BAKING,  ETC.,  .  57 

7 


CONTENTS. 

SOUP.. 

SOUP  FOR  STOCK. — MEAT  FOR  STOCK. — To  CLEAR  STOCK. — 
To  SEASON  STOCK. — THICKENING  FOR  STOCK. — COLOR- 
ING FOR  STOCK. — WHAT  MAY  BE  SERVED  IN  SOUP. — 
RECIPES  FOR  SOUP  WITH  STOCK. — SOUP  WITHOUT 
STOCK,  WITH  RECIPES,  .  .  .  -70 

FISH. 

SOMETHING  ABOUT  FISH. — To  CLEAN. — To  SKIN. — FILLETS 
OF  FISH. — FISH  BOILED. — FISH  BAKED,  WITH  STUFF- 
INGS.— FISH  FRIED.— FISH  BROILED. — OTHER  MODES 
OF  DRESSING. — FISH  REMNANTS. — SHELL-FISH. — FISH 
SAUCES,  .......  96 

MEATS. 

BEEF.— USES  FOR  COOKED  BEEF.— VEAL.— MUTTON.— LAMB. 
— PORK. — POULTRY  AND  GAME. — RECIPES  FOR  THE 
PREPARATION  OF  THE  SEVERAL  KINDS  OF  MEATS,  .  142 

VEGETABLES. 

GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. — PROPER  VEGETABLES  TO  SERVE 
WITH  THE  DIFFERENT  MEATS. — RECIPES  FOR  THE  PREP- 
ARATION OF  MANY  KINDS  OF  VEGETABLES,  .  .  239 

SALADS. 

DRESSINGS. — COLORING     FOR    SALAD     DRESSING. — SALAD 

COMBINATIONS,  •      292 

CHEESE  DISHES. 
VARIOUS  WAYS  OF  PREPARING  CHEESE.— How  RARE-BITS, 

STRAWS  AND  OTHER  DAINTIES  ARE  MADE,  .      308 

EGG  DISHES. 
THE  COOKING  OF  EGGS,  OMELETTES,  ETC.,      .  3l6 

BREAD. 

GENERAL  HELPS  IN  MAKING.— FLOUR.— YEAST.— SPONGE.— 
KNEADING. —  MOULDING. —  BAKING. — R  E  c  i  P  E  s  FOR 
BREAD  MADE  WITH  THE  DIFFERENT  YEASTS.^-HOW  TO 
MAKE  ROLLS,  BUNS,  RUSK,  ETC.,  .  332 


CONTENTS.  9 

BREAKFAST  DISHES,  BISCUIT,  GEMS,  ETC. 

RECIPES  FOR  MUFFINS. — GRIDDLE  CAKES. — SOUTHERN 
CAKES,  AS  CORN  DODGERS,  CORN-PONE,  ETC. — DOUGH- 
NUTS.— FRITTERS. — CEREALS  FOR  BREAKFAST,  .  .  358 

PIES; 

PASTRY. — PUFF  PASTE. — How  TO  SHAPE  PASTE. — RECIPES 

FOR  MANY  KINDS  OF  PIE,    .  .  .  .  .      388 

PUDDINGS. 

GENERAL  SUGGESTIONS. — RECIPES  FOR  HOT  PUDDINGS. — 
RECIPES  FOR  COLD  PUDDINGS.— SAUCES  FOR  BOTH  HOT 
AND  COLD,  .......  413 

FROZEN  DISHES. 

ICE-CREAM  OF  VARIOUS  KINDS. — How  TO  MAKE  A  MOUSSE- 
SOUFFLES — ICES — SHERBET — FROZEN  FRUITS,  ETC.,  .  461 

CUSTARD,  CREAMS   AND   GELATINE   JELLIES. 

BOILED  CUSTARD. — BAKED  CUSTARD. — WHIPPED  CREAM, 
WITH  WAYS  OF  USING. — JELLIES. — How  TO  CLEAR. — 
How  TO  REMOVE  FROM  THE  MOULD. — RECIPES  FOR 
JELLIES,  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  481 

TARTS— COOKIES— MOLASSES  CAKES,  ETC. 

FILLINGS  FOR  TARTS. — VARIOUS  RECIPES  FOR  COOKIES- 
GINGERBREAD,  ETC.,  .  .  .  .  .  503 

CAKE. 

GENERAL  HELPS  IN  MAKING. — LOAF-CAKE — LAYER-CAKE. — 
FILLINGS  FOR  LAYER-CAKE. — FROSTING  OR  ICING 
CAKES. — How  TO  DECORATE  WITH  ICING,  .  515 

BEVERAGES. 

REMARKS  ON  DRINKS. — TEA— CpFFEE— COCOA — SUMMER 
DRINKS. — THE  SERVICE  OF  WINE,  WITH  A  WINE 
MENU,  .......  554 


10  CONTENTS. 

FRUIT— HOW  TO  SERVE  IT. 

VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  FRUIT.— How  TO  ICE  FRUIT.— COOKED 

FRUITS,  566 

COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK. 

SUGGESTIONS  FOR  PREPARING  VARIOUS  DISHES. — TEAS — 
BROTHS— GRUELS,  ETC.— DRINKS  FOR  THE  SICK.— 
THREE  MENUS  FOR  AN  INVALID,  .  .  .  -57  \ 

MENUS. 

A  THANKSGIVING  DINNER.— A  CHRISTMAS  DINNER.— 
MENUS  FOR  A  DAY  IN  SPRING.— A  DAY  IN  SUMMER.— A 
DAY  IN  AUTUMN.— A  DAY  IN  WINTER..— MENUS  FOR  A 
LENTEN  DAY. — A  COMPANY  LUNCHEON. — A  COMPANY 
DINNER. — Two  MENUS  FOR  EVENING  CARD  PARTIES,  .  588 

MEASUREMENTS. 

HELPFUL  TABLE  FOR  HOUSEKEEPERS,  .  .  .      596 

SMALL  ECONOMIES. 

VARIOUS  WAYS  ro  ECONOMIZE. — How  TO   USE  WHAT  is 

SAVED,  .......      590 

THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING. 

How  TO  DO  VARIOUS  THINGS  NOT  COMMONLY  UNDERSTOOD. 
How  TO  MAKE  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  SUGAR. — How 
TO  CREAM  BUTTER. — How  TO  MAKE  CLARET  VINEGAR. 
— How  TO  KEEP  FOOD  IN  THE  ICE  CHEST. — WHAT 
LIME  WATER  is  GOOD  FOR,  ....  604 

INDEX,  .  .....      617 


THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK 


PREFATORY. 

"  There's  no  want  of  meat,  sir, 
Portly  and  curious  viands  are  prepared 
To  please  all  ki.nds  of  appetite." 

MASSINGER, 

"THE  destiny  of  nations  depends  on  their  diet,'1  says 
Savarin,  an  opinion  exactly  coinciding  with  that  of  the 
ancient  ballad-monger  who  asserted  the  infallibility  of 
Britons  so  long  as  they  were  fed  upon  beef.  Without 
exactly  agreeing  with  either  of  these,  time  has  proven 
that  the  civilization  of  a  people  or  age  may  be  ascer- 
tained by  the  style  of  its  cookery — that  gastronomic  taste 
changes  with  the  progress  of  a  people.  In  the  time  of 
Henry  VIII.  a  porpoise  was  esteemed  a  great  delicacy. 
The  seasoning  of  dishes  was  strong  and  pungent,  saffron 
being  a  predominating  flavoring  for  them.  Shaks- 
pere  speaks  of  this  in  "The  Winter's  Tale,"  when 
the  clown,  sent  shopping  for  the  sheep-shearing  feast, 
says, — "  I  must  have  saffron  to  color  the  warden  pies." 
The  fee-favor  of  the  city  of  Norwich  was  twenty-four  her- 
ring-pies, each  containing  five  herrings.  They  were  car- 


14  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

ried  to  court  by  the  Lord  of  the  Manor  of  Carleton  in 
1629.  These  pies  were  seasoned  with  ginger,  pepper, 
cinnamon,  cloves,  and  "  grains  of  Paradise,"  which  were 
much  used  in  those  days  of  strong  palates,  being  pun- 
gent and  peppery.  Looking  back  only  to  the  last  cent- 
ury, we  are  confronted  with  the  coarseness  of  our  more 
recent  ancestors'  cookery.  A  gammon  of  bacon  was 
to  be  boiled  and  a  quantity  of  hay  was  tied  up  in  a 
cloth  and  placed  in  the  water  during  the  cooking — for 
flavoring.  A  neck  of  lamb  was  fried  with  ale,  which 
appears  to  have  been  freely  used  in  cooking.  Simplicity 
evidently  was  unknown,  as  may  be  gathered  from  a 
perusal  of  the  "  Cook's  Dictionary,"  published  a  century 
ago. 

But  we  must  not  forget,  while  criticising  the  cookery 
of  the  past,  that  every  age  and  country  have  been  laid 
under  contribution  to  supply  the  materials  with  which 
the  modern  cook  works,  and  that  our  tables  are  now  sup- 
plied, thanks  to  the  increased  and  rapid  intercourse  with 
other  lands,  from  the  larder  of  the  world.  How  best  to 
use  and  enjoy  these  gifts  of  Providence  became  at  length 
a  study,  and  a  literature  of  cookery  gradually  arose. 
The  first  books  were  written  by  cooks  or  housewives,  who 
lacked  the  power  of  language  to  convey  their  knowledge 
to  others  ;  and  like  the  "  Cook's  Dictionary,"  their  books, 
.ill-spelled  and  poorly  expressed,  were  of  no  great  use  to 
the  worker.  But  in  the  present  day,  as  the  art  improves, 
books  on  the  subject  grow  with  it,  and  ladies  vie,  in 
writing  them,  with  the  professional  cook. 

COOKING 
is  the  art  of  preparing  food  for  the  nourishment  of  the 


INTRODUCTION.  1 5 

human  body.  It  is  usually  done  by  the  direct  applica- 
tion of  heat,  fruits  and  some  of  the  vegetables  eaten  in 
their  natural  state  having  really  been  "  cooked  "  by  the 
sun.  Milk  and  eggs,  which  are  perfect  food,  would  be 
nothing  unless  they  came  from  the  warm  living  animal. 
Foods  dried  or  smoked  have  undergone  a  certain  process 
of  natural  cooking. 

HEAT 

seems  to  create  new  flavors  and  to  change  the  odor, 
taste  and  digestibility  of  nearly  all  articles  of  food.  It 
opens  the  cells  of  starch  in  flour,  rice  and  potatoes ; 
hardens  the  albumen  in  eggs,  fish  and  meal ;  softens  the 
fibre  of  tough  meat,  hard  vegetables  and  fruits ;  and 
gives  new  flavor  to  tea,  coffee,  etc. 

COLD 

is  also  a  most  important  factor  in  the  preparation  of 
food ;  honey,  ices,  custards,  salads,  butter,  gelatine 
dishes  and  many  others  being  only  fit  to  eat  when  cold. 

WATER 

or  some  other  liquid,  in  connection  with  heat,  is  neces- 
sary in  the  many  forms  of  cookery.  Grains,  dried  fruit, 
and  foods  which  have  parted  with  nearly  all  their  moist- 
ure in  the  ripening  or  drying  process,  need  the  addition 
of  a  large  quantity  of  water  in  cooking  to  soften  and 
swell  the  gluten  and  starch  before  they  are  fit  for  the 
table. 

AIR, 
or  the  free  action  of  oxygen  upon  our  food  while  cooking, 


1 6  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

develops  certain  flavors  not  otherwise  obtainable  ;  thus, 
meat  roasted  or  broiled  has  a  much  finer  flavor  than 
when  boiled  or  fried.  Food  cooked  before  the  fire  or  in 
the  open  air  (as  "camping-out"  parties  can  testify) 
shows  the  advantages  of  this  combined  action  of  heat  and 
air.  Drying  in  the  sun  was  one  of  the  earliest  modes  of 
cookery.  Then  came  roasting  before  the  fire  or  broiling 
over  the  coals,  and  baking  in  hot  ashes  ;  this  last  was  the 
primitive  oven.  As  the  art  of  making  kitchen  utensils 
developed,  other  modes  were  adopted.  Then  to  encono- 
mize  heat,  ovens  were  invented.  The  oven  originally  con- 
sisted of  a  covered  dish  set  over  or  near  the  fire,  having 
sometimes  a  double  cover  filled  with  coals.  Afterwards 
stoves,  which  kept  the  fire  and  heat  in  a  limited  space, 
were  introduced  ;  and  so  extensive  are  the  improvements 
in  them,  that  we  now  have  conveniences  with  them  for 
doing  all  forms  of  cooking  with  wood,  coal,  oil  or  gas. 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD. 

"  Now,  good  digestion  wait  on  appetite, 
And  health  on  both." 

SHAKSPERE. 

WHY  we  eat,  what  to  eat,  and  when  to  eat  it,  are 
questions  which  all  should  be  able  to  answer.  That  a 
man  may  eat  his  fill  and  yet  be  hungry  is  a  well-known 
fact.  What  then  is  the  reason  ?  It  is  certainly  not  the 
quantity  but  the -quality  of  food  which  satisfies;  and 
often,  indeed,  it  not  only  happens  that  what  is  one  man's 
meat  is  another's  poison,  but  it  is  also  true  that  what 
is  food  at  one  season  of  the  year  or  time  of  life,  or 
in  one  climate,  may  be  poison  at  another  season  or 
age  or  in  another  climate.  Dwellers  in  the  tropics 
thrive  on  fruits  upon  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  frigid 
zone  would  starve,  while  the  blubber  and  oil  that  com- 
pletely nourish  the  Icelander  would  be  fatal  if  eaten 
under  the  Equatorial  sun.  Even  the  same  person 
requires  fruit  in  the  tropics  and  fat  and  oils  in  the  frozen 
zones.  The  child  requires  food  made  up  of  different  ele- 
ments from  that  needed  by  the  adult,  and  the  food  of  a 
laborer  in  the  field  must  differ  from  that  of  the  student, 
who  takes  little  exercise,  and  whose  strain  of  life  is 
heavy  on  the  nervous  system. 
2  '7 


I  8  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

It  is  particularly  important  that  those  who  are  forced 
to  practice  rigid  economy  should  know  just  what  will 
best  supply  the  needs  of  a  family  and  how  the  most  nour- 
ishment may  be  had  at  a  minimum  of  expense.  We  are 
told  by  scientists  that  an  adult  requires  daily  eight 
and  a-quarter  pounds  of  dry  food  and  water,  with  air 
necessary  for  respiration.  The  same  amount  is  thrown 
off  as  waste,  or  in  other  words  eight  and  a-quarter 
pounds  is  used  up  as  fuel  to  keep  the  machinery  of  life  in 
motion,  and  if  that  fuel  is  not  forthcoming,  death  ensues. 
The  better  the  oil,  the  better  the  light ;  and  the  more 
perfectly  suited  the  food  is  to  the  wants  of  the  system, 
the  more  vigorous  will  be  the  body,  the  more  perfect  the 
working  of  muscle,  nerve  and  brain. 

Food  is  first  masticated,  then  digested.  When  it 
reaches  the  stomach  it  is  at  once  acted  upon  by  the  gas- 
tric juice,  which  pours  from  the  walls  of  the  stomach. 
Consequently,  anything  that  dilutes  this  fluid  tends  to 
retard  digestion,  and  sickness  follows.  Therefore,  it  is  a 
mistake  to  drink  freely  during  mastication,  or  until  some 
little  time  has  elapsed  after  eating  to  allow  the  stomach  to 
do  its  work  unhindered.  As  the  juices  of  the  stomach  act 
only  upon  the  surface  of  the  food  which  passes  into  it, 
it  can  readily  be  seen  why  light  bread  is  more  whole- 
some than  heavy  bread.  Light,  spongy  bread  is  acted 
upon  in  every  part  because  the  gastric  juice  is  able  to 
penetrate  it ;  and  if  all  housewives  knew  this,  they  would 
not  place  the  heavy,  stale  loaf  on  the  table,  "  to  save  it." 
Truly,  many  a  mother  gives  a  stone  when  asked  by  her 
child  for  bread  ! 

Fats  of  all  kinds  do  not  digest  in  the  stomach,  but 
require  the  action  of  the  bile  and  pancreatic  juice 


THE  CHE  MIS  TR  Y  OF  FOOD.  1 9 

to  make  them  available  as  carbon  for  living  combus- 
tion. Only  as  fat  is  combined  with  other  food  is  it  a 
benefit  to  the  system,  and  the  use  of  more  than  can  be 
perfectly  blended  brings  on  indigestion  and  often  exces- 
sive "  heart-burning,"  to  use  a  domestic  term.  ^ 

Food  has  primarily  two  functions — the  repair  of  muscu- 
lar waste,  and  the  supply  of  the  body  with  fuel  to  keep  the 
temperature  up  to  98°  ;  and  each  is  indispensable  to  health 
and  strength.  The  chief  part  of  our  food  goes  to  keep  up 
this  living  warmth,  and  the  balance,  except  small  portions 
of  mineral  substances,  such  as  sulphur  and  potash,  goes 
to  muscle  and  brain  production.  The  secret  of  healthy 
food  is  to  adapt  it  to  the  present  needs  of  those  for  whom 
it  is  prepared.  Foods  are  divided  into  three  classes  : 
the  Nitrogeneous,  in  which  nitrogen  is  the  chief  element, 
and  which  feed  the  muscles  only  ;  the  Non-nitrogeneous 
or  Carbonaceous,  which  produce  heat  chiefly  ;  and  those 
in  which  the  first  two  are  combined. 

It  is  known  that  the  body  requires  four  to  five  ounces 
of  food  for  heat  to  one  for  muscle,  and  this  is  the  key  to 
preparing  food  in  different  climates  and  for  different 
occupations  and  conditions.  The  whites  of  eggs  (pure 
albumen)  are  richest  in  nitrogen  or  muscle-providing 
food.  The  lean  parts  of  beef,  mutton,  venison  and  game 
contain  nearly  as  great  a  percentage — about  fifteen  parts 
in  one  hundred.  Grain,  peas,  beans  and  the  curd  of 
milk  are  also  rich  in  nitrogen,  and  if  muscles  were  all 
that  were  needed,  these  would  be  almost  perfect  food. 
But  for  one  ounce  that  goes  to  muscle,  five  ounces  must 
go  to  heat,  and  this  means  Carbon. 

Carbon,  the  heat  producer,  comes  chiefly  from  starch, 
of  which  the  vegetable  kingdom  is  largely  composed, 


20  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Sago,  tapioca,  arrow-root  and  corn  starch  are  almost  pure 
starch,  and  desserts  made  of  them  are  easily  digested  and 
contribute  largely  of  carbon,  but  do  not  feed  the  muscles, 
except  they  be  combined  with  eggs,  milk,  etc.,  in  cooking. 
Consequently,  children  and  working  people  who  need  to 
have  their  muscles  fed  should  be  fed  on  such  things 
rather  sparingly,  unless  muscle-making  food  has  also 
been  eaten.  For  the  student,  the  aged  and  those  who  do 
not  exercise  much,  these  foods  are  most  valuable,  being 
easily  digested  and  productive  of  warmth. 

The  following  table  shows  the  proportion  of  starch  in 
common  grains,  etc. 


Rice  Flour, 

84  to  85  parts  in  100. 

Indian  Meal, 

77-80       «      "     « 

Oat 

70  "  80       "      "     " 

Wheat  Flour, 

39  "77       "      "    " 

Barley      " 

67  "70       '•      "     " 

Rye 

50  "  61       "      "   •" 

Buckwheat, 

52              "      "    " 

Peas  and  Beans, 

42  "  43       "      <4    " 

Potatoes, 

13  "  15       "      «'    " 

The  variation  in  wheat  flour  is  due  to  the  different 
processes  of  grinding.  The  old  method  of  making  fine, 
white  flour  used  only  the  middle  of  the  grain  and  rejected 
the  gluten,  which  is  nitrogeneous  and  muscle-building  ; 
hence  the  whitest  flour  was  the  least  nourishing,  contain- 
ing the  largest  percentage  of  starch.  Modern  grinding 
has,  however,  reversed  this,  and  the  "new  process  "  flour 
contains  the  largest  percentage  of  gluten.  The  old  argu- 
ment that  graham  contained  the  largest  proportion  of 
muscle-making  material  no  longer  holds  good,  as  analysis 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD.  21 

has  proven  that  the  "  new  process  "  flour  arid  graham  are 
almost  identical  in  these  elements. 

The  substance  of  next  importance  in  supplying  carbon 
to  the  body  is  oil.  The  oils  used  are  butter,  lard  and  the 
fat  of  meat.  They  contain  about  80  parts  of  carbon  in 
100.  Grains  contain  oils  in  varying  quantities,  as  follows  : 

Corn  meal,  9  parts  in  100. 
Oatmeal,       6       "      "     " 

Rye,  3>£   «      «    « 

Wheat,  i  to  2       "      "    " 

This  furnishes  the  best  of  reason  why  fats  should.be  spar- 
ingly used  in  hot  weather,  the  grains  and  vegetables 
supplying  sufficient  warmth-producing  material.  The 
excessive  use  of  fats  in  cooking  causes  an  over-secretion 
of  bile,  and  this  produces  indigestion,  sickness  at  the 
stomach,  and  often  fevers  of  different  kinds.  Dyspeptics 
particularly  should  reject  fried  and  oily  foods. 

One  condition  of  life  calls  for  a  daily  diet  of  fat,  and 
that  is  long  exposure  to  excessive  cold.  When  the 
breath  freezes  on  the  beard,  the  lungs  require  a  large 
amount  of  heat  to  keep  the  body  up  to  a  normal  tempera- 
ture. The  best  bread  for  cold  weather  is  that  containing 
the  most  oil.  Corn  bread  ranks  first,  oatmeal  second,  rye 
third  and  wheat  last.  Woodmen,  sailors,  street-car  driv- 
ers, railroad  men  and  others  exposed  to  long,  cold  storms, 
especially  when  there  is  little  opportunity  for  exercise, 
should  eat  freely  of  fat  meat  and  butter.  Let  the  cook 
remember,  however,  that  fats  are  physic — and  truly  harm- 
ful if  not  blended  with  substances  containing  starch.  An 
ounce  of  lard  and  a  pound  of  flour  thoroughly  blended  in 
wheat  bread  are  digestible,  but  the  same  in  corn  meal 


2 2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-  B O OK. 

already  rich  in  oil  would  only  be  fit  for  an  Icelander. 
The  proper  proportion  of  oil  in  food  is  found  in  milk, 
which  contains  3^  parts  in  100. 

The  next  element  which  supplies  carbon  is  sugar, 
which  is  found  in  all  vegetables  and  largely  in  milk. 
Sugar  contains  40  parts  carbon  and  60  parts  water ;  con- 
sequently candy  should  be  sparingly  eaten  in  the  warm 
months  and  children  should  be  allowed  little  if  any. 

There  are  other  elements  found  in  food,  and  while 
noticed  only  in  small  quantities,  they  are  no  less  essential 
to  health  and  comfort.  One  is  phosphorus,  which 
largely  enters  into  the  building  up  of  brain  and  nerve 
waste.  '  Phosphorus  is  found  in  eggs,  fish,  oysters,  lob- 
sters, game,  cheese  and  potatoes,  and  these  should  be 
freely  eaten  by  the  brain-worker.  Another  element  that 
enters  into  body-building  is  sulphur,  which  is  required 
for  growth  of  hair,  nails,  bones  and  cartilage.  Of  this 
there  is  so  much  found  in  eggs  that  silver  is  darkened  by 
contact  with  them.  Curd  of  milk  and  cheese  are  also 
rich  in  sulphur.  Iron  is  also  present  in  the  blood  and  is 
found  in  most  articles  of  food,  being  most  abundant  in 
the  juice  of  beef,  in  eggs  and  in  milk.  Lime  and  salt  are 
also  needed  for  the  body,  the  lime  making  bone,  while  salt 
aids  digestion.  Lime  is  found'  in  all  grains,  in  wheat 
and  in  milk.  Nothing  is  more  healthful  for  growing 
children  than  bread  and  milk,  as  it  supplies  heat,  muscle 
and  bone  material. 

Races  develop  largely  in  proportion  to  their  adeptness 
in  supplying  heat  and  muscle  producing  food.  The 
Scotch  use  oatmeal,  rich  in  nitrogen  ;  the  Irish  endure  a 
large  amount  of  labor  on  cheap  fare,  potatoes,  cabbage 
and  milk  largely  entering  into  their  daily  food.  The  use 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OF  FOOD.  2$ 

of  "  Chemistry  in  Cooking,"  is  to  learn  how  to  combine 
all  the  life  essentials.  With  a  meal  that  contains  much 
nitrogen  should  be  served  vegetables  and  dessert  that 
are  rich  in  carbon,  to  make  up  the  needed  healthy  food. 
For  instance,  the  farmer's  dinner  of  salt  pork,  cabbage 
and  potatoes  is  about  perfect  for  an  outdoor  laborer  in 
cold  weather,  the  cabbage  giving  the  nitrogen  and  the 
pork  the  carbon.  It  is  a  proper  dinner  also  from  the 
fact  that  it  takes  four  hours  and  a-half  to  digest,  and,  as 
an  old  fanner  once  said,  "  it  stands  by  a  man,"  although 
the  why  of  the  "  standing  "  had  never  entered  into  his 
education.  Venison  is  about  the  easiest  of  digestion  of 
all  meats  and  contains  fifteen  parts  of  nitrogen,  which  is 
the  same  proportion  as  beef.  Wheat  bread  does  not  con- 
tain muscle-producing  material  enough  for  a  laboring 
man,  and  should  be  supplemented  with  lean  meat ;  conse- 
quently a  sandwich  made  of  rare  roast  beef  and  bread  is 
most  nourishing. 

Beans  contain,  next  to  meat,  the  most  nitrogen  and 
form  a  durable  food  for  laborers,  and  this  is  the  reason 
the  inmates  of  our  State  prisons  have  beans  served  to 
them  daily  in  the  form  of  soup,  made  with  fat  pork,  the 
fat  supplying  the  carbon  needed.  Cabbage  ranks  next 
to  beans  in  nitrogeneous  qualities,  and  then  come  oats, 
wheat  and  barley.  Milk,  containing  all  the  elements  of 
body  building,  and  eggs,  rich  in  nitrogen,  used  together 
with  rice  and  sugar,  containing  carbon,  produce  a  most 
nutritious  dish  that  is  easy  of  digestion.  Buttermilk  is  a 
healthful  drink  in  summer  as  it  is  still  rich  in  nutritive 
parts,  and  the  acidity  aids  digestion.  Eggs  contain  a 
large  quantity  of  carbon  and  are,  in  consequence,  good 
food  for  cold  weather.  Wheat  bread  alone  will  support 


24  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

* 

life  longer  than  any  one  food,  except  meat,  the  propor- 
tion of  nitrogen  to  carbon — i  to  5 — being  nearly  correct 
for  the  student  and  those  not  taking  vigorous  exercise. 
For  active  life,  however,  more  nitrogen  is  needed,  and 
lean  meat  should  be  used. 

Considering  the  requirements  of  the  body  and  the  ele- 
ments that  make  up  food,  a  wholesome  breakfast  should 
consist  of  strength-giving  and  muscle-making  food. 
Nothing  is  better  than  broiled  beefsteak,  which  is  most 
easily  digested,  especially  by  real  workers.  Eggs  are 
nourishing  but  less  stimulating  and  provide  for  the  mus- 
cles. For  heat,  bread  and  cakes  are  to  be  preferred,  and 
fruit  with  its  mild  acid  aids  digestion.  If  coffee  is  to  be 
taken  at  all  during  the  day,  it  should  be  drank  in  the 
morning,  as  it  is  stimulating,  and  the  effect  should  have 
time  to  pass  off  before  the  hour  for  retiring  comes. 

In  summer  less  carbon  should  appear  on  the  bill  of  fare, 
and  blanc-manges,  creams,  berries  and  ripe  fruits  should 
be  served  for  dessert.  In  giving  a  dinner  the  wise  host- 
ess will  consider  well  her  company,  their  occupation, 
etc.  A  party  of  hunters  or  outdoor  workers  would  require 
an  abundance  of  meat,  while  persons  of  sedentary  occu- 
pation would  be  better  pleased  with  delicacies  and  noth- 
ings. A  sleighing  party  will  devour  carbon,  but  persons 
almost  fainting  under  a  July  sun  long  for  cooling  fruits 
and  the  leanest  of  meat.  The  time  when  food  is  given 
should  decide  the  nature  of  the  bill  of  fare — whether 
easy  of  digestion  or  not ;  thus  those  starting  upon  a  jour- 
ney should  be  given  rare  roast  beef  or  beefsteak,  which 
can  be  quickly  disposed  of  by  the  stomach  (thus  prevent- 
ing possible  loss  by  car  sickness),  rather  than  a  fried 
pork-chop,  that  takes  nearly  five  hours  to  digest. 


THE  KITCHEN. 

"  There  is  always  work, 
And  tools  to  work  withal,  for  those  who  will." 

LOWELL. 

IT  is  almost  impossible  to  give  any  except  general  sug- 
gestions as  to  the  arrangement  of  the  kitchen. 

If  every  housewife  had  the  pleasure  of  planning  this 
part  of  her  house,  a  model  kitchen  might  be  fully  drawn 
out ;  but  unfortunately  the  large  percentage  of  our  peo- 
ple live  in  rented  houses,  in  which  the  kitchen  has  to  be 
taken  just  as  it  is  found,  and  endured  among  other  incon- 
veniences. A  few  hints,  however,  for  those  about  to 
build  homes  for  themselves  may  be  found  helpful. 

The  room  should  not  be  too  large,  15x15  feet  being  a 
very  good  size.  If  larger,  more  time  will  be  required  to 
keep  it  properly  cleaned,  and  many  more  steps  will  be 
needed  to  accomplish  the  necessary  work.  The  matter 
of  ventilation  should  be  given  an  important  place  in  the 
planning  of  the  kitchen,  since  the  comfort  of  the  entire 
household  depends  upon  it.  The  odors  from  the  cook- 
ing should  not  go  through  the  house,  and  high  and  wide 
windows  in  the  kitchen  furnish  the  only  means  of  pre- 
venting this.  Good  ventilation  and  plenty  of  light  are 
indispensable,  for  there  should  be  no  dark  corners  to 

25 


26  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

tempt  untidiness.  The  floor  should  be  made  of  hard 
pine,  maple  or  birch,  and  laid  in  three-inch  strips,  and 
a  carpet  should  cover  all  the  floor,  except  around  the 
stove,  where  an  oil-cloth  will  be  found  muck  neater. 
Many  persons  object  to  a  carpet  in  the  kitchen,  but  it  is 
restful  to  tired  feet  and  can  be  taken  up  and  washed 
when  soiled. 

About  the  room  should  be  a  wainscot  of  oiled  pine 
wood,  and  none  of  the  wood-work  should  be  painted. 
The  walls  of  the  room  are  by  many  considered  quite 
improperly  finished  unless  paint  is  applied,  but  unless 
you  are  sure  the  painter  understands  just  the  kind  of 
paint  to  use,  paper  them  instead.  Well  painted  walls  are 
a  continual  satisfaction,  for  they  can  be  easily  cleaned  ; 
but  when  poorly  painted  they  are  great  burdens  to  the 
good  housekeeper,  inasmuch  as  no  amount  of  cleaning 
cleans  them.  If  paper  is  used,  choose  neither  a  light 
nor  a  dark  tone,  and  have  plenty  of  it  left  over  to 
repair  any  disasters  that  may  come  to  the  walls. 
The  usual  objection  to  paper,  that  the  steam  from  the 
cooking  ruins  it,  will  not  hold  good  if  the  windows  are 
lowered  from  the  top  a  couple  of  inches  throughout  the 
day.  Whitewash  the  ceiling,  and  have  it  re-whitened 
every  spring  at  the  usual  cleaning  time. 

Have  a  large  sink,  choosing  one  of  iron  rather  than  of 
slate,  as  dishes  are  more  likely  to  be  chipped  and  broken 
if  a  stone  sink  is  used.  The  strainer  in  the  sink  should 
be  fastened  down  permanently,  as  anything  that  will  not 
run  through  the  holes  ought  not  to  go  into  the  drain  pipe 
at  all.  A  great  temptation  to  raise  the  lid  and  let  sedi- 
ment pass  through  is  thus  removed.  Do  not  enclose  the 
space  under  the  sink,  for  such  a  closet  will  afford  a 


THE  KITCHEN.  2/ 

secure    and    inaccessible    abiding-place    for    water    bugs 
should  they  gain  a  foothold  in  the   kitchen.     Besides,  if 
this   be  left  open,  the  manner  in  which   it  is  kept  will 
furnish  a  reliable  criterion  of  the  neatness  of  the  kitchen 
maid. 

In  many  parts  of  the  country  what  is  known  as  the 
'"dresser"  in  the  kitchen  is  not  in  use,  the  pantry  giving 
space  enough  for  dishes  and  utensils  of  all  kinds.  A 
dresser  usually  has  two  closets  above  and  two  below,  with 
two  deep  drawers  at  the  top  of  the  lower  closets.  In  the 
upper  closets  should  be  kept  all  the  dishes  necessary  for 
use  in  the  kitchen,  and  in  the  lower  ones  all  pots,  sauce- 
pans and  other  utensils  of  this  kind.  In  one  of  the 
drawers  should  be  the  cooking  knives  and  forks,  larding 
needles,  wooden  spoons,  can-opener,  rolling-pin,  etc. ; 
and  in  the  other  the  jelly-bags,  dish-towels,  linen  soup- 
strainer,  fish  cloths,  a  large  extra  piece  of  cheese-cloth 
that  may  be  torn  into  convenient  pieces  as  wanted,  a  ball 
of  twine  and  all  other  necessary  articles  of  this  kind.  It 
is  a  question  whether  a  dresser  is  a  good  arrangement  for 
dishes,  as  the  doors  of  the  upper  closets  are  frequently 
left  open  by  careless  workers,  so  that  the  smoke  from 
broiling  and  the  steam  from  the  cooking  have  a  most 
untidy  effect  upon  the  dishes.  It  is  very  unwise  to  dis- 
pense with  a  pantry  altogether  and  depend  on  one  of 
these  dressers.  Have  a  pantry  always,  even  if  you  are 
compelled  to  do  away  with  the  parlor  of  the  house  to 
make  room  for  it. 

There  should  be  a  large  table  in  the  kitchen,  or  two, 
if  there  be  room  enough  ;  but  if  there  is  to  be  no  sep- 
arate laundry  and  the  stationary  tubs  are  in  the  kitchen, 
the  top  of  the  tubs  forms  a  very  handy  table  for  dishes, 


28  THE  PA  TTERN  COOA'-BOOA'. 

etc.  A  small  table  covered  with  zinc  and  placed  near  the 
range  is  a  most  convenient  addition  to  the  kitchen  furni- 
ture, as  hot  dessert,  cake,  pie,  etc.,  can  be  placed  on  it  to 
cool.  There  should  also  be  a  good-sized  shelf  or  mantel, 
upon  which  the  clock,  match-safe,  candle-sticks,  etc.,  may 
be  kept. 

Screen  the  windows  and  the  door  in  summer,  or 
swarms  of  flies  will  enter,  rendering  it  impossible  to  keep 
the  room  clean  and  creating  a  personal  annoyance  that 
must  be  endured  to  be  fully  appreciated. 

In  the  pantry  under  the  shelves  should  be  built  a  long 
bin  divided  into  compartments  for  holding  wheat  flour, 
corn  meal,  graham,  etc.  This  is  a  most  satisfactory 
arrangement,  for  often  a  space  that  is  large  enough  for 
the  purpose  would  be  found  entirely  too  small  to  contain 
a  barrel  of  flour. 

CARE   OF   THE    KITCHEN   AND   THE    UTENSILS. 

"  A  place  for  everything,  and  everything  in  its  place  " 
is  a  motto  to  be  followed  in  the  kitchen  more  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  house  ;  for  there  are  so  many  utensils, 
dishes,  etc.,  that  confusion  is  certain  to  reign  supreme 
unless  order  is  the  first  thought  all  day  and  every  day. 
But  even  if  the  worker  is  careful,  there  should  be  one 
day  set  apart  for  general  cleaning  and  putting  in  order 
of  everything  pertaining  to  the  room.  The  entire  wood- 
work should  be  cleaned  at  least  once  a  month,  and 
around  the  tubs  and  wherever  the  strain  of  the  work  is 
the  greatest  it  should  be  cleaned  every  week. 

The  sink  requires  special  attention.  Wash  it  daily 
with  soap  and  water,  always  giving  a  final  rinse  with 
scalding  water.  Set  a  regular  time  for  this  cleaning,  just 


THE  KITCHEN.  29 

after  the  dinner  work  is  out  of  the  way  being  obviously 
the  most  convenient.  The  drain  pipe  of  the  sink  should 
be  carefully  cleansed  once  every  ten  days  with  washing 
soda.  To  prepare  a  cleansing  agent  for  this  purpose, 
pour  three  quarts  of  boiling  water  on  a  pound  of  washing 
soda,  and  when  the  latter  is  dissolved,  bottle  for  use. 
Pour  a  pint  of  this  liquid  down  the  drain-pipe  when  it 
needs  purifying;  the  soda  unites  with  the  grease  and 
keeps  the  pipe  free  from  deposits. 

Tinware,  granite-ware  and  frying  pans  will  need  fre- 
quent scouring,  and  nothing  is  of  greater  comfort  in  the 
kitchen  for  this  work  than  a  generous  supply  of  Sapolio. 
Bristol  brick  may  be  used  for  this  purpose,  but  scarcely 
with  as  admirable  results  for  the  labor  expended. 
Woodenware  that  has  been  washed  should  never  be  dried 
before  the  fire,  as  the  wood  will  warp  and  crack  when 
thus  exposed  to  the  heat.  Steel  knives  should  be  bright- 
ened with  Sapolio.  The  refrigerator  should  be  carefully 
cleansed  throughout  once  a  week  and  a  wire  run  through 
the  drain  pipe  to  dislodge  anything  that  may  have 
dropped  into  it.  It  is  very  unwise  to  have  this  pipe  con- 
nected with  the  sewer  or  the  drain  of  the  house,  as  such 
an  arrangement  offers  a  constant  menace  to  the  health  of 
the  household.  The  range  or  stove  should  be  cleaned 
once  a  fortnight,  all  the  flues  being  swept  out,  the  top  of 
the  oven  brushed  off,  and  the  stove  pipe  sharply  tapped 
to  loosen  any  soot  that  may  have  formed. 

Above  all,  the  kitchen  should  be  plentifully  supplied 
with  towels.  There  should  be  three  kinds  :  some  of  crash 
for  the  hands,  which  can  be  made  to  go  over  a  roller ; 
some  of  soft  crash  for  dishes  and  kitchen  implements  gen- 
erally ;  and  some  of  unbleached  cotton  for  use  about  the 


30  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

range  in  lifting  hot  utensils.  These  cotton  towels  are 
much  more  convenient  than  the  padded  holders  com- 
monly in  use,  as  they  can  be  easily  washed,  and  the 
heated  dishes  can  be  handled  much  more  safely  with 
them. 

UTENSILS    NEEDED. 

The  young  housekeeper  will,  we  believe,  gladly 
receive  some  advice  in  the  matter  of  choosing  the  uten- 
sils needed  to  produce  a  well-furnished  kitchen.  In  buy- 
ing tinware  (and,  indeed,  any  article  for  equipping 
this  part  of  the  house)  it  is  economy  to  purchase  the 
best  in  the  beginning.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  to 
experienced  housekeepers  that  American  wares  for  the 
kitchen  are  not  nearly  so  durable  as  English.  Of 
course,  the  latter  cost  more  here,  but  if,  when  furnishing 
the  kitchen,  a  little  more  money  be  expended  in  this 
way,  it  will  never  be  regretted,  since  the  best  wares  last 
fully  twice  as  long  as  those  of  poorer  quality.  A  superior 
quality  of  tinware  will  last  a  life-time,  while  the  cheap 
varieties  will  scarcely  survive  a  year's  usage.  The  best 
i in  has  a  smooth  and  rather  dull-looking  surface  and 
keeps  its  shape  until  worn  out ;  its  surface  will  stand 
great  heat  without  becoming  rough,  but  when  the  poorer 
tin  is  thus  exposed,  the  coating  melts,  producing  a  rough 
surface  that  is  difficult  to  clean,  and  to  which  the  food 
clings  until  it  burns.  The  utensils  should  all  be  made 
of  XX  tin,  and  the  bread  and  cake  pans,  when  not  made 
of  iron,  should  be  of  the  XXXX  quality. 

The  surface  of  the  iron-ware  for  the  kitchen  becomes 
smoother  with  use,  but  iron  utensils  of  poor  quality  are  a 
great  annoyance  and  can  never  be  relied  upon  to  attain 


THE  KITCHEN.  3  [ 

this  desired  smoothness.  Before  iron-ware  is  used,  it 
should  be  washed  out  and  dried  perfectly.  The  inside 
should  then  be  rubbed  with  fat  or  oil  that  contains  no 
salt,  and  be  allowed  to  remain  thus  greased,  for  six  or 
eight  hours  before  washing  again.  Place  the  utensil  on 
the  fire  and  heat  it  gradually,  after  which  wash  it 
thoroughly  with  soap  and  water  and  rub  with  a  dry  towel. 
This  process  will  smooth  the  surface,  if  carefully  done. 
Iron  comes  next  to  copper  in  the  matter  of  retaining 
heat,  although  it  is  far  below  the  latter  metal  in  this 
respect.  Copper  utensils  are  not  much  used  for  two 
reasons — their  weight  and  the  danger  of  poisoning.  Cop- 
per requires  constant  inspection  and  care  and  does  not 
find  favor  in  the  eyes  of  housekeepers  generally.  It  may 
be  cleaned  with  sour  milk  and  salt. 

Granite-ware  is  most  commonly  used  nowadays,  being 
preferred  on  account  of  its  lightness  and  cleanliness ; 
and  if  its  cost  can  onty  be  brought  to  a  more  reasonable 
figure,  it  will  eventually  displace  all  other  varieties  of 
cooking  utensils.  In  selecting  this  ware,  if  a  piece  does 
not  seem  firm  in  every  part,  or  if  there  is  a  flaw  in  the 
enamel,  reject  it,  for  the  granite  will  chip  and  crack. 
Granite-ware  will  not  endure  rough  treatment,  but  with 
care,  it  will  last  a  long  time. 

Two  lists  of  kitchen  utensils  are  here  given,  each  being 
very  complete  in  itself.  One,  which  is  called  by  the 
house  supplying  it  the  "one  hundred  dollar  outfit," 
includes  everything  needed  in  the  kitchen  and  is  sold  for 
one  hundred  dollars.  The  other  is  the  "twenty-five  dollar 
outfit,"  the  cost  for  the  articles  furnished  amounting  to 
that  sum.  For  those  who  cannot  afford  the  costlier  out- 
fit, the  less  expensive  one  will  be  found  very  complete, 


THE  PA  Tl^ERN  COOK-BOOK. 


List  No.  i,  $100.00. 


Step  Ladder  ...................  $2.15 

Clothes  Horse  .................  1.50 

"        Line,  50  Yds  ____  .  .......  i.oo 

3  Doz.  Clothes  Pins  ..........   .  .  20 

Skirt  Board  ....................  70 

Ironing  Table  ..................  5.00 

Zinc  Top  Kitchen  Table  .......  4.50 

Dish  Drainer  ..................  25 

Water  Bucket  ..................  20 

Rolling  Pin  ....................  25 

Potato  Masher  .................  8 

Vegetable  Slicer  ...............  35 

Clothes  Wringer  ...............  5.00 

Wash  Bench  ...................  i.oo 

Cedar  Wash  Tub  ...............  i.oo 

"  ................  1-25 

"  ................  1.5° 

Wash  Board  ....................  40 

Flour  Bucket  ...................  5° 

Salt  Box  .......................  40 

Nest  Boxes  .....................  4° 

Coffee  Mill  .....................  1.25 

Wooden  Spoons  ................  27 

Soap  Cup  ..........  ............  5 

Oval  Iron  Boiler,  Lined  ........  1.70 

Muffin  Pan  .....................  9° 

Roasting  Pan  -----  ............  85 

Bread  Pans  ..................  80 

Fry  Pan  .......................  38 

Omelette  Pan 
Garbage  Can 
Tea  Kettle 
ate  Cook  Pot 


Ag 


Sauce-Pan  ............. 

Farina  Boiler  ........... 

Pudding  Pan  ........... 

Colander  ............... 

Coffee  Pot  ..............  1.  15 

Tea  Pot  ................  90 

Tin  Pie  Plates  ...............  15 

"    Jelly  Cake  Plates  ..........  15 

Butter  Kettle  ..................  85 

Basin  .......................   .  25 

Turk's  Head  ........   .........  35 

Wire  Broiler  ...................  50 

Iron  Spoons,  assorted  ..........  24 

Wash  Boiler,  Copper  Bottom.  .  .  2.25 

Toaster  ........................  5 

Radish  Grater  .................  8 

Chain  Dish  Cloth  ..............  10 

Croquette  Mould  ..............  30 

Nutmeg  Grater  ................  3 

Set  Skewers  .............  .  ......  20 

Flour  Dredge  ..................  12 

Sugar      "  .....................  12 

Pepper    "  .....................  3 

Tin  Cup  ........................  5 

Dish  Pan,.,  ....................  50 


Graduated  Measure $    15 

Cake  Turner 12 

Dipper  5 

Oyster  Broiler 50 

Egg  Beater 25 

EggWhip 6 

Skimmer 7 

Scoop 5 

Cake  Cutter 3 

Tea  Strainer 5 

Coffee  Strainer 12 

Fish  Boiler 2.85 

Waffle  Iron i.oo 

Wire  Vegetable  Boiler 22 

Soap  Stone  Griddle i.oo 

Pudding  Boiler 75 

Jelly  Mould 50 

Melon  Mould 55 

Soup  Strainer, 85 

Dust  Pan 20 

Dust  Brush 40 

Bread  Box 80 

Cake     ;•'     75 

Sugar  Can 75 

Coffee  Canister 18 

Tea             "          15 

Spice  Box 70 

Crumb  Tray  and  Brush . .  60 

Japanned  '1  rays i.io 

Mincing  Knife 18 

Bread  Knife 35 

Butcher  Knife 20 

Set  Sad  Irons 1.40 

Polishing  Iron 

Ice  Pick 

Egg  Poacher 

Hatchet  

Meat  Saw 

Tack  Claw '. 

Set  Scales  and  Weights  . . . 

Stove  Brush  

Package  Stove  blacking 

Dish  Mop 

Steamer. 


Oyster  Fry 
Cleaver 


80 
12 
25 
40 
40 
15 

1.65 
35 
5 
12 
50 
1.25 
60 
Hanging  Safe  ..........  ........    4.00 

Set  Table  Mats  ...............       85 

Market  Basket  .................       80 

Clothes      "       ................    1.50 

Knife  Box  .....................      40 

Meat  Board  ....................      25 

Broom  .........................      25 

Coal  Scuttle  ....................      50 

Coal  Shovel  ...................        8 

Poker  ..........................        5 

Paring  Knife  ..................       10 

Family  Nail  Box  ..............       10 

Refrigerator  .....    ...........  15-75 

$100,00 


THE  KITCHEN. 


33 


List  No.  2,  $25.00. 


i  Wash  Tub  ....................  $   55 


i  Wringer 
i  Wash  Board 


Yds.  Clothes  Line 
3     oz.  Pins 


5       s 
Doz. 
2  Clothes  Props  ................ 

i  Horse  ................ 

i  Ironing  Board  ................. 

i  Step  Ladder  ................... 

i  Kitchen  Table  ..................    1 

i  Coffee  Mill  ..................... 

i  Rolling-Pin  .................... 

i  Potato-Masher  ................ 

i  Pie  Board  ...................... 

i  Radish  Grater  ................. 

i  Slaw  Cutter  ................... 

i  Meat  Board  .................... 

i  Flour  Bucket  .................. 

i  Water  .................. 


i  Wooden  Spoon  ................. 

i  Ash  Sieve  ...................... 

i  Tea  Kettle  ......  ............... 

i  Round  Iron  Boiler,  Lined  ..... 

i  Oval  "       ..... 

i  Round  Sauce-Pan,      "        ..... 

i  Coal  Scuttle  ................... 

i  Roasting  Pan  .................. 

i  Broom  ......................... 

i  Chamois  ....................... 

i  Griddle   ....................... 

i  Frying  Pan  .................... 

i  Bread      "     .................... 

i  Waffle  Iron  ................... 

i  Tin  Coffee-Pot  ................. 

i     '      Tea        "   ................. 

i  Tea  Strainer  ................... 

i  Coffee     "       ................... 

i  Scoop  .......................... 

i  Ladle  .......................... 

i  Skimmer  ....................... 

i  Spice  Box  ...................... 


25 


i  Coffee  Canister  ................  $  10 

i  Tea  Canister  ...................  10 

i  Japanese  Tray  .................  12 

i  Crumb  Brush  and  Tray  ........  45 

i  Dust-Pan  ......................  9 

i      "     Brush  ........  ,-;  ...........  20 

i  Bread  Box  .........  ?  ...........  60 

i  Market  Basket  ................  60 

i  Pudding  Pan  .................  12 

i  Cake  Cutter  ....................  3 

i  Wash  Boiler  ...................  55 

i  Tin  Kettle  .....................  9 

i  Dish-Pan  ......................  20 

i  Flour  Sieve  ....................  15 

i      "      Dredge  ..................  5 

i  Pepper  Box  ....................  3 

i  Iron  Fork  ......................  5 

i     "     Spoon  ....................  6 

i  Scrub  Brush  ...................  12 

i  Set  Skewers  ...................  20 

i  Chain  Dish  Cloth  ..............  5 

xEggWhip  .....................  5 

i  Nutmeg  Grater  ................  3 

i  Apple  Corer  ...................  5 

i  Butter  Kettle  ..................  15 

i  Gem  Pan  ......................  15 

i  Colander  .......................  18 

i  Broiler  .........................  20 

i  Toaster  ........................  5 

1  Tin  Cup  .......................  4 

2  Pie  Plates  .....................  10 

i  Basin  ..........................  12 

1  Paring  Knife  ..................  5 

2  Flat  Irons  ......  ................  65 

i  Hatchet  ........................  40 

i  Mincing  Knife  .................  18 

i  Tack  Claw  .............   .......  7 

i  Ice  Pick  .......................  9 

6  Knives  and  Forks  .............  60 

i  Can  Opener  ....................  8 

i  Flat  Iron-Stand  ................  5 

i  Butcher  Knife  .................  20 

i  Bosom  Board  .........  .........  25 


$25.00 


A  dish-drainer  is  a  great  convenience  in  the  kitchen. 
If  the  sink  is  too  small  to  hold  both  the  dish  pan  and 
the  drainer,  a  dripping  pan  should  be  set  under  the 
drainer.  A  sink-rack  made  of  slats  of  wood  on  which  to 
place  the  dish-pan  when  in  use  is  a  necessity. 

The  modern  potato-masher  is  a  great  improvement  on 
the  old  wooden  pounder.  The  potatoes  should  be  sea- 
3 


34 


THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


soned  after  being  put  through  the   masher  the  first  time  ; 
they  should  then  be  re-heated  and  pressed  through  into  the 


DISH-DRAINER. 


serving-dish.  They  should  not  be  smoothed  nor  patted 
down  before  being  sent  to  table,  as  that 
would  greatly  diminish  their  lightness.  The 
masher  or  strainer  here  illustrated  is  quite 
inexpensive,  costing  only  twenty-five  cents  ; 
and  it  can  be  used  in  many  ways — for 
crushing  berries,  in  powdering  the  yolks  of  eggs,  etc., 
etc.,  the  method  of  doing  which  is  described  further  on. 

There  are  many  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  vege- 
table cutters.  They 
are  made  of  tin,  and 
a  set  of  graded  sizes 
and  shapes  can  be 
purchased.  They  are 
very  useful.  The  cups 
or  ends  of  figures  A 
and  B  are  pressed  into 
the  vegetables,  a  n  d 
The  cutter  A  will  make 


POTATO-MASHER. 


then    given    a    turn    around. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


35 


little  potato  balls  one  inch  in  diameter,  which  are 
called  potatoes  "a  la  Parisienne"  when  fried.  The 
cutter  shown  at  figure  B  will  cut  oblong  forms.  The 
cutters  C,  D,  E  and  F  may  be  used  for  cutting  veg- 
etables that  have  been  previously  sliced  for  the  pur- 

A 


B 


°   0 

°  o 

E    O 


VEGETABLE    CUTTEKS. 


pose  and  are  intended  for  decorations  or  for  soup. 
These  cutters  can  also  be  used-  for  cutting  slices  of 
bread  to  fry,  the  shapes  resulting  being  very  attractive 


COOKY, 


BISCUIT, 


DOUGHNUT 


when  served.  There  should  also  be  biscuit  cutters,  one 
large  and  one  small  ;  these  will  answer  for  ginger-snaps 
as  well.  Then  a  round  and  a  fluted  cooky-cutter  will  be 
needed ;  and  if  doughnuts  are  to  be  made,  a  double  cut- 
ter will  be  found  of  great  assistance. 


30  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Among  the  various  knives  needed  in  the  kitchen,  the 
French  fluted  knife  will  be  found  a  great  convenience. 
It  cuts  solid  vegetables  in  a  round,  fluted  shape. 


FRENCH    FLUTED 


The  French  cook's  knife  is  made  of  the  best  steel  and 
is  easily  kept  sharp.  It  is  very  useful  for  boning.  It 
costs  about  eighty  cents,  but  will,  if  properly  used,  last 
for  years  in  constant  service. 


FRENCH    COOK  S   KNIFE. 


This   coffee-mill    is   one  of   the  newest,  and  is  easily 

regulated  to  grind  coarse 
or  fine,  by  means  of  a 
thumb-screw  on  the  side. 
It  is  a  little  more  expen- 
sive than  the  common  mill, 
costing  $1.75  ;  but  it  is 
manipulated  more  easily. 
It  can  be  held  on  the  table 
while  in  use. 

The  "  bain-marie  "  pan 
is  an  open  vessel  to  be 
filled  with  hot  water  and 
placed  on  the  back  of  the  range  ;  several  sauce-pans 
or  cups  with  handles  are  fitted  in.  and  are  intended  to 


COFFEE    MILL. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


37 


hold  sauces,  entrees  and  other  dishes  that  must  be 
served  hot.  The  flavoring  is  not  diminished  when 
articles  are  kept  hot  in  this  way. 


MUFFIN-PAN. 


THE        BAIN -MARIE        PAN. 


A  muffin-pan,  for  cook- 
ing muffins  or  corn  cakes, 
should  be  made  of  iron, 
and  should  be  thoroughly  heated  before  each  using. 
There  are  different  depths  for  these  pans,  and  a  shallow 
one  is  not  advisable. 

A  measuring  cup  is  a  most  necessary 
article  in  the  culinary  department.  Cups  of 
this  kind  are  graded  in  two  ways — at  the 
quarter  cupfuls  and  at  the  eighths. 

Oysters  cannot  be  properly  broiled  with- 
out a  separate  utensil  for  the  purpose.  In  the  broiler 


MEASURING    GUI'. 


OYSTER-BROILER. 


here   shown    the  wires   are    so   close   together   that   the 
oysters  cannot  slip  into  the  fire. 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


The  Dover  egg-beater,  than  which  no  better  is  made, 
may  seem  a  luxury  to  many  who  do  not  possess  one,  but 
as  they  cost  but  twenty-five  cents,  they  are  within  the 


EGG-WHIP. 


means  of  the  most  economical.  The  egg-whip  here  pic- 
tured is  used  simply  to  whisk  the  eggs  to  thin  them, 
without  beating  them  light. 

This  kettle  is  used  for  boil- 
ing fish.  It  is  half  filled 
with  water,  and  the  fish  is 
laid  on  the  rack  and  sub- 
merged. The  rack  can  be 
removed  when  the  fish  is 
done,  all  danger  of  break- 
ing the  latter  being  thus 
avoided.  The  fish  should  be  drained  a  moment  over  a 
pan  or  kettle  before  being  removed  from  the  rack. 

The  waffle-iron  finds  a  place  in  nearly  every  kitchen. 
It  should  not  be  on  a  frame  that  lifts  it  too  high  from  the 
fire,  and  it  should  fit  the  stove,  if  possible,  otherwise  it 
will  be  a  source  of  great  annoyance. 

Through  the  winter  griddle-cakes  are  eaten  in  every 
household,  so  the  choice  of  the  griddle  on  which  to  fry 


FISH-KETTLE,    WITH    RACK. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


39 


them  should  be  given  some  thought.  The  soap-stone 
griddle  does  not  require  oiling  ;  there  is,  consequently, 
no  odor  or  smoke  from  cooking  the  cakes.  There  are, 
however,  two  objections  to  this  griddle  ;  it  takes  a  very 


WAFFLE-IRON. 


long  time  to  heat  through,  and  the  cakes  are  not  as 
tender  as  when  fried  on  an  iron  griddle.  Many  prefer 
the  little  crispness  that  the  oiling  of  the  griddle  imparts 
to  the  cakes.  In  buying  an  iron  griddle,  chose  one  of 
medium  thickness. 


MEAT-REST. 


A  meat-rest  should  be  included  among  the  utensils. 
Such  a  rest  can  be  purchased  in  any  size  to  fit  the  roast- 
ing pan.  Roasting  should  not  be  done  without  a  rack. 
This  raises  the  meat  sufficiently  from  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  to  cook  it  evenly,  and,  by  keeping  the  meat  out  of 


4o 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


the  juice  and  gravy,  prevents  it  being  boiled  instead  of 

roasted. 

A  braising-pan  is  here  represented.     The  food  to  be 

braised  is  put  into  the  lower  pan  and  the  lid  covered  with 
_^ _____  hot  coals.     Recipes  for   brais- 

ing are  given  in    the   body  of 
the  book. 

Bread  pans  should  not  be 
too  large.  They  should  be 
made  of  Russia  iron  and  will 
last  a  lifetime.  Roasting  pans 
are  also  best  when  made  of 

this  iron.     The  first  cost  is  nearly  twice  as  great  as  that 

of  the  ordinary  iron  pan,  but  the  durability  of  this  metal 

more  than  pays  for   the   extra   expense  and  it  is   much 

lighter  to  handle  than  the  common  variety. 


BRAISING-PAN. 


WIRE    BASKET. 


The  frying- 
pan,  with  basket 
for  frying  oys- 
ters, croquettes, 
etc.,  is  a  very 
useful  article. 
The  support  for  the  basket  can  be  taken  out,  thus  leav- 
ing an  ordinary  frying-pan.  A  pan  of  this  kind,  nine 
inches  in  diameter,  costs  one  dollar.  A  basket  made 
of  wire  may  also  be  obtained  for  frying  in  this  way,  but 


FRYING-PAN. 


THE  KITCHEN. 


the  work  is  then  done  in  a  kettle  of  fat  without  the  use  of 
a  frying-pan.  Frying-pans  are  best  made  of  iron.  The 
granite-ware  pans  are  not  satisfactory,  as  food  is  very 
likely  to  burn  in  them,  unless  a  large  amount  of  fat  is 
used,  which  is  not  always  possible  or  economical. 

There    should    also    be    a    short- 
handled  frying-pan    that  can  be  put   ( 
in    the    oven    if   necessary,  and   an- 
other with  a  long  handle. 


FRYING-PAN. 


IRYING-1'AN. 


An  omelet  pan,  with  sloping  sides,  is  a  requisite  if  the 
best  results  are  desired  in  making  omelets. 


IY1NG-PAN. 


One  of  the  latest  of 
useful  articles  for  the 
kitchen  is  the  "salad- 
washer."  The  lettuce  is 
placed  inside,  and  the 
washer  is  then  closed  and 
well  shaken,  all  the  water 
that  may  cling  to  the  salad  being  thus  thrown  off.  Salad- 
washers  may  be  had  in  four  sizes,  from  seven  to  ten 


SALAD-WASHER. 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


inches  in  diameter,  and  the  smallest  size  costs  seventy- 
five  -cents. 

Scales  are  a  necessity  in  every  well-regulated  kitchen. 


There  are  two  varieties  which  are  about  equally  desirable 
—the  old-fashioned  "  counter "  scales  and  the  "  dial  " 
scales.  The  dial  scales  can  be  adjusted  to  the  weight  of 
the  vessel  the  article  is  weighed  in  by  means  of  a  simple 
screw  at  the  top,  and  on  this  account  are  very  conven- 
ient. 

Moulds  for  jelly,  blanc-manges, 
ice-creams,  etc.,  come  in  many  dif- 
ferent forms.  It  is  not  best  to  at- 
tempt too  fancy  a  form  for  ice- 
cream, as  the  result  is  apt  to  be  very 
disappointing  ;  none  but  an  expe- 
rienced packer  can  use  elaborate  moulds  to  advantage. 


BLANC-MANGE  OK  JELLY 
MOULD. 


DIVIDUAL   JELLY    MOULDS. 


We   give  a  simple  form  that  the  least  skilful    need  not 
fear  to  attempt. 

Moulds   for  puddings  are   shown  in  pretty  designs  in 
earthenware.     The  best  tin  moulds  are  quite  expensive, 


THE  KITCHEN.  43 

but  jelly  and  cream  cool  much  more  quickly  in  tin  than 
in  earthen  ware. 

Individual  jelly  moulds  are  not  very  expensive  when 
purchased  by  the  dozen,  and  a  very  pretty  dessert  may 
be  produced  by  their  use. 


PUDDING    MOULD. 


ROUND    MOULD,    HOLLOW   CENTER. 

The  round  mould,  with  open 
center  for  steamed  p  u  d- 
dings,  renders  expeditious  cooking  a  possibility,  as  the 
steam  can  penetrate  the  center  as  well  as  the  sides. 
The  round  mould  for  pudding  made  of  corn  starch  or  gela- 
tine has  a  hollow  center.  When  the  pudding  is  turned  from 
the  mould,  and  the  center  or  hollow  filled  with  strawber- 
ries or  whipped  cream,  a  very  attractive  dish  is  the  result. 

There    should  be  a  plentiful  supply  of  kettles  in  every 
kitchen ;    and    one    should    be    set 
apart  for  boiling  ham,  as  the  odor  is 
so  lasting. 

The  farina  kettle,  or  double- 
boiler,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is 
one  of  the  most  useful  of  kitchen 
utensils.  It  can  be  used  for  cook- 
ing many  preparations,  such  as 
boiled  custards,  cream  for  filling 
in  layer  cake,  blanc-mange  and  any 
dish  that  is  made  of  heated  milk.  FARINA  KETTI-E- 

Water  is  placed  in  the  lower  kettle  and  the  milk  in  the 
upper  one  ;  an'd  the  latter,   being  heated   by  the  steam 


44 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


from  the  boiling  water,  cannot  possibly  be  scorched. 
The  price  of  this  boiler  is  small,  one  that  has  a  two-quart 
capacity  for  the  upper  kettle  costing  seventy-five  cents. 
A  small  family  will  only  need  the  quart  size  for  the 
upper  kettle. 

A  kettle  or  saucepan  in  which 
to  cook  mush  for  breakfast, 
without  danger  of  scorching, 
has  been  very  recently  in- 
vented. Oatmeal  or.  cracked 
wheat  is  served  on  nearly  all 
breakfast  tables  nowadays,  and 
it  is  no  easy  matter  to  cook 

either  of  these  cereals  with  the  ordinary  kettle,  both 
requiring  to  be  stirred  almost  constantly  to  prevent  their 
sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  This  kettle,  there- 
fore, is  gladly  welcomed.  The  part  A  is  made  of  good 
tinware,  while  B  is  of  copper  ;  and  the  space  B  is  solidly 
filled  with  asbestos,  the  inside  bottom  of  the  kettle  being 


where  A  and  B  meet.  In  this  way  the  food  is  held  at 
least  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  stove  or  fire.  Such  a 
kettle  of  two-quart  size  costs  seventy  cents. 

The  dust-pan  here  shown  is  an  improvement  on  the  old 


THE  KITCHEN. 


45 


style.  The  foot  is  placed  on  the  section  marked  A  and 
the  dust  is  taken  up  without  stooping  on  the  part  of  the 
sweeper.  This  dust-pan  costs  thirty  cents. 

A  wire  soap-bracket  should 
hang  over  the  kitchen  sink  in  a 
convenient  position;  and  a. 
soap  shaker  will  use  up  all  the 
small  bits  of  soap.  The  latter 
costs  fifteen  cents. 

Those  who  have  not  a  re- 
frigerator in  which  to  pre- 
serve food  will  find  a  set  of 
wire  screens  most  useful. 
Food  can  then  be  placed  on  the  cellar  floor  (if  the  house 


SOAP-BRACKET. 


SOAP-SHAKER. 


is  fortunate  enough  to  have  a  good  cellar)   and   safely 
covered  with  the  screens. 


LARDING    AND    TRUSSING    NEEDLES. 


Larding  needles  must  be  provided  if  larding  is  to 
be  done.  These  have  split  ends,  like  a  cleft  stick,  to 
receive  strips  of  fat  meat. 

Trussing  needles,  or  skewers,  are  also  very  convenient. 

A  paste  jagger  for  cutting  pie-crust  or  doughnuts  will 
be  found  of  great  utility. 


46 


THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


Fish  scissors  are    needed.     They    should  be  carefully 
washed  and  dried  after  each  using  and  placed  just  where 


I'ASTE  JAGGER. 


they  can  be  found  when  needed  again. 

A  whip  or  "  syllabub  "    churn   is  a 

and  useful  article.     It  costs  but  eigh- 

and  is  made  of  tin.     The  handle,  A, 


very  cheap 
leen  cents 
placed 


is 


WHIP    CHCKN. 


E  inside  the  tube  B,  and  the  whole  is  then 
dipped  into  a  bowl  of  sweetened  and  fla- 
vored cream.  By  churning  and  pressing  it 
through  the  perforated  holes  at  the  bottom 
of  the  tube,  the  cream  soon  becomes  a 
light  froth,  which  is  skimmed  off  the  top  as 
soon  as  formed  ;  and  the  churning  is  con- 
tinued until  all  the  froth  possible  is  obtained. 


MARKETING. 

"  But  yet  I  run  before  my  horse  to  market." 

SHAKSPERE. 

FEW  housekeepers  know  how  to  market  wisely  and 
economically.  They  trust  the  butcher's  opinion  entirely 
or  else  give  their  orders  to  the  market-boy,  and  then  are 
obliged  in  consequence  to  take  what  is  sent  and  to  pay 
the  weekly  or  monthly  bill  without  knowing  whether  it  is 
correct  or  not.  Circumstances  are  often  such  that 
"  order  boys  "  are  of  necessity  the  only  avenue  of  com- 
munication ;  but  when  this  is  the  case,  the  mistress 
should  insist  on  a  bill  being  sent  with  each  purchase  of 
supplies  and  also  that  every  article  be  weighed  in  the 
kitchen,  thus  relieving  the  tradesman  of  any  temptation 
to  give  under  weight. 

In  some  cities  it  is  the  fashion  to  go  to  market,  and 
all  ladies  do  so  except  those  favored  ones  who  can 
employ  servants  enough  to  relieve  them  of  all  care  of 
the  house  and  housekeeping.  Skill  and  experience  are 
certainly  required  in  purchasing  meat,  and  it  is  our 
endeavor  here  to  give  directions  by  which  the  inexpe- 
rienced housewife  may  be  aided  in  choosing  good  food. 

MEAT 

is  the  general  term  applied  to  the  flesh  of  animals  used 
for  food,  and  is   of  three  classes:   Meat,  including  beef, 

47 


48  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

veal,  mutton,  lamb  and  pork ;  Poultry,  including  chick- 
ens, geese,  turkeys  and  ducks ;  Game,  including  quail, 
partridge,  grouse,  pigeons  and  other  birds,  venison  and 
any  wild  meat  that  is  hunted  in  the  forest  or  field. 

Meat  is  in  season  all  the  year  round,  but  certain  kinds 
are  best  at  certain  seasons.  Pork  is  good  only  in 
autumn  and  winter.  Veal  should  be  eaten  in  the  spring 
and  summer.  Venison  is  in  season  in  the  winter ;  fowls 
in  autumn  and  winter  ;  lamb  in  the  summer  and  fall,  and 
mutton  and  beef  throughout  the  year. 

Beef  is  considered  by  most  people  the  best  and  most 
nutritious  of  meat.  An  ox  should  be  five  or  six  years  old 
before  it  is  killed,  being  then  in  its  prime.  Ox-beef  is 
the  best.  The  meat  is  fine-grained,  the  lean  being  of 
a  bright  red  color,  marbled  throughout  with  fat,  when  the 
animal  is  well-fed  and  of  good  breed.  The  fat  should  be 
white,  not  yellow ;  and  the  suet  should  also  be  white  and 
firm.  Beef  should  never  be  lean — that  is,  lacking  in 
the  usual  amount  of  fat ;  for  unless  there  is  a  good 
quantity  of  fat,  the  meat  will  be  tough  and  undesirable. 
Heifer-beef  is  paler  in  hue  than  ox-beef  and  of  closer 
grain,  the  fat  being  white,  and  the  bones,  of  course, 
smaller.  Bull-beef  should  always  be  avoided.  It  is  dark 
colored  and  coarse-grained,  has  very  little  fat,  and 
possesses  a  very  strong,  meaty  smell.  If  when  meat 
is  pressed  with  the  finger  it  quickly  rebounds,  it  is 
prime ;  but  if  the  dent  disappears  slowly  or  not  at  all, 
the  meat  is  of  inferior  quality.  Any  greenish  tints  about 
the  fat  or  the  bone,  or  any  slipperiness  of  surface, 
indicates  that  the  meat  has  been  kept  too  long  and 
is  unfit  for  use,  except  by  those  who  enjoy  what  is  known 
as  a  "high  flavor." 


MARKETING. 


49 


Meat  is  cut  differently  in  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, but  the  accompanying  cut  of  an  ox  shows  one  way  of 
dividing  it. 


1.  Sirloin. 

2.  Top  or  aitch-bone, 

3.  Rump. 

4.  Round. 

5.  Lower  part  of  round 

6.  Veiny  piece. 

7.  Thick  flank. 

8.  Thin       " 

9.  Leg. 

10    Fore-rib  (5  ribs). 

11.  Middle  rib  (4  ribs). 

12.  Chuck  rib  (3  ribs). 

13.  Shoulder. 

14.  Brisket. 

15.  Clod. 

16.  Sticking. 

17.  Shin. 


Choose  the  ribs  or  the  sirloin  for  roasting ;  if  the 
former  be  selected,  let  them  be  the  middle  ribs.  One  rib, 
unless  the  bone  is  taken  out  and  the  meat  rolled  and 
stuffed,  is  too  thin  to  be  an  economical  cut,  because  much 
is  lost  in  cooking.  In  selecting  sirloin,  have  it  cut  from 

4 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


what  butchers  call  the  "  chump  end,"  which  has  a 
good  under-cut.  The  tenderloin  lies  under  the  short  ribs 
and  close  to  the  back.  It  is  considered  by  many  to  be 
the  choicest  piece  and  can  be  purchased  by  itself,  but 


1.  Loin,  best  end. 

2.  Loin,  chump  end. 

3.  Fillet. 

4.  Hind  knuckle. 

5.  Fore  knuckle. 

6.  Neck,  best  end. 

7.  Neck,  scrag  end. 

8.  Blade  bone. 

9.  Breast,  best  end 
10.  Breast,  brisket  end. 


CALF. 

only  at  the  larger  markets.  It  is  usually  cut  through 
with  the  porterhouse  and  sirloin  steaks.  Of  these  the 
porterhouse  is  generally  preferred,  and  the  short  or  small 
porterhouse  is  the  most  economical.  The  coarse  and 
tough  end  of  the  large  steaks  may  be  used  for  soup.  The 
family  that  has  to  carefully  consider  the  expense  of  meat 
will  find  recipes  farther  on  for  preparing  the  cheapest 
cuts  so  as  to  make  a  nutritious  dinner  at  small  cost. 


MARKETING. 


Veal  is  best  when  the  calf  is  two  or  three  months  old  ; 
if  over  four  months  old,  the  flesh  will  be  coarse.  Veal 
should  be  white  and  the  kidney  well  covered  with  fat.  If 
the  flesh  is  dark  and  hangs  loosely  about  the  bone,  it 
is  not  good.  It  should  be  dry  and  closely  grained ;  if 


1.  Leg. 

2.  Chump  end  of  loin. 

3.  Best  end  of  loin. 

4.  Neck,  best  end. 

5.  Neck,  scrag  end. 

6.  Shoulder. 

7.  Breast. 

A  saddle  is  the  two  loins  undivided. 
A  chine  is  the  two  sides  of  the  neck 
undivided. 


SHEEP. 

moist  and  clammy,  avoid  it.  The  fillet,  loin,  shoulder 
and  best  end  of  the  neck  are  the  roasting  joints.  The 
breast  is  usually  stewed,  as  is  also  the  knuckle.  A  calf's 
head  is  a  great  delicacy.  Calves'  feet  are  boiled  and 
stewed,  or  used  for  making  jelly.  Sweetbreads  have 
come  to  be  looked  upon  as  a  great  delicacy  and  are 
therefore  expensive.  The  calf  is  divided  as  illustrated  in 
cut. 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK, 


Mutton  should  be  fat,  and  the  fat  should  be  clear,  hard 
and  white.  Wether-mutton  is  the  best  and  may  be  known 
by  having  a  knob  of  fat  on  the  upper  part  of  the  leg. 
Mutton  to  be  perfection  should  be  from  sheep  five  or 
six  years  old.  The  flesh  should  be  dark-colored,  the 


1.  Leg. 

2.  Loin. 

3.  Shoulder. 

4.  Breast. 

5.  Ribs. 
Forequarter,  3,  4  and  5  togeth* 


LAMB. 

color  being  an  indication  of  age.  The  ribs  may  be  used 
for  chops,  but  there  is  much  waste,  the  bones  taking  up 
half  of  the  weight.  The  leg  chops  are  most  economi- 
cal. All  the  joints  of  a  sheep  may  be  roasted,  the  sad- 
dle being  the  best,  and  the  haunch  next.  The  leg  and 
neck  are  used  for  boiling.  The  scrag  end — an  eco- 
nomical piece — is  very  sweet  stewed  and  served  with 
rice.  The  sheep  is  cut  up  as  illustrated  in  the  engrav- 
ing. 


MARKETING. 


53 


.Lamb  should  be  a  year  old  ;  and  it  is  more  digestible 
than  any  other  young  meat.  The  flesh  should  be  a  pale 
red  and  should  be  fat.  Lamb  is  generally  roasted  or 
broiled,  the  finest  chops  being  from  the  loin. 

Venison  is  best  when  from  the  female  deer.     The  flesh 


1.  Haunch. 

2.  Neck. 

3.  Shoulder. 

4.  Breast. 


DEER. 

should  be  a  reddish-brown,  and  the  fat  thick,  clean  and 
close.  This  meat  is  more  often  eaten  "  high  "  than  any 
other  variety. 

Buy  pork  only  when  the  butcher  can  be  relied  upon  to 
have  good  meat ;  for  diseased  pork  is  of  all  meat  the 
most  to  be  avoided.  The  fat  should  be  firm,  and  the 
lean  white  and  finely  grained.  If  the  fat  is  full  of  small 
kernels,  the  pig  has  been  measly,  and  the  meat  is  unfit 


54 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


for  use.     Pork  should  never  be  eaten  during  the  warm 
months.     The  pig  is  divided  as  illustrated  below. 


1.  Spare-rib. 

2.  Hand. 

3.  Belly. 

4.  Fore-loin. 

5.  Hind-loin, 

6.  Leg. 


PIG. 


TO  CHOOSE  TURKEY. 

They  are  in  season  in  fall  and  winter  and  the  old  ones 
have  long  hairs  and  the  flesh  is  purplish — where  it  shows 
under  the  skin  on  the  legs  and  back.  When  young  they 
are  white  and  plump,  with  smooth  black  legs,  and  the 
cock  bird  has  a  sharp  spur.  When  fresh  the  eyes  are 
bright  and  full  and  the  feet  supple  ;  and  the  absence  of 


MARKETING.  55 

these  signs  denotes  age  and  staleness.  Hen-turkeys  are 
inferior  in  flavor  to  the  gobblers,  but  are  smaller,  plumper 
and  fatter. 

• 

FOWLS. 

These  are  always  in  season.  The  old  ones  have  long, 
thin  necks  and -feet,  and  the  flesh  on  the  back  and  legs 
has  a  purplish  shade,  the  legs  being  rough  and  hard. 
V^oung  fowls  have  tender  skin,  smooth  legs  and  comb,  the 
breast  bone  is  soft  and  easily  bent  with  the  fingers,  and 
the  feet  and  neck  are  large  in  proportion  to  the  body. 
Choose  white-legged  fowls  for  stewing  and  dark-legged 
ones  for  roasting. 

GEESE. 

Young  geese  have  yellow  and  supple  bills  and  feet  and 
tender  skin,  and  the  breast  is  plump  and  the  fat  white. 
An  old  goose  is  not  fit  for  the  table.  It  has  red  and 
hairy  legs. 

DUCKS. 

Young  ducks  feel  tender  under  the  wings,  and  the  web 
of  the  foot  is  transparent.  Those  are  best  that  have 
thick,  hard  breasts.  The  wild  duck  has  reddish  legs,  and 
the  tame  duck  yellow  ones. 

FISH. 

The  eyes  of  fresh  fish  are  bright,  the  gills  of  a  fine, 
clear  red,  the  body  stiff,  and  the  smell  not  unpleasant. 
Fish,  in  order  to  be  palatable,  must  be  eaten  very  soon 
after  being  taken  from  the  water.  Chloride  of  soda  will 


56  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

restore  fish  that  is  not  extremely  fresh,  but  it  is  never  so 
good  as  when  freshly  caught. 

OYSTERS. 

If  fresh,  oysters  will  close  forcibly  on  the  knife  when 
opened.  If  the  shell  gapes  in  the  least  degree,  the  oyster 
is  losing  its  freshness ;  and  when  the  shell  remains  open 
the  oyster  is  dead. 

HARES    AND    RABBITS. 

When  these  animals  are  young  and  fresh  the  cleft  in  the 
lip  is  narrow,  the  body  stiff,  and  the  claws  smooth  and 
sharp.  Old  and  stale  hares  and  rabbits  will  present 
indications  the  reverse  of  these.  To  ascertain  whether  a 
hare  is  young  or  old,  turn  the  claws  sideways ;  if  they 
crack  the  animal  is  young.  The  ears  also  should  be 
tender  and  should  bend  easily. 

EGGS. 

Shake  the  eggs,  and  if  not  altogether  good,  they  will 
rattle.  Another  test  is  to  place  them  in  a  basin  of  water 
if  they  lie  on  their  sides,  they  are  fresh,  but  if  they  turn 
on  end,  they  are  not  good. 

VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables  should  be  crisp  and  fresh-looking. 

APPLES. — In  choosing  these,  be  guided  by  the  weight, 
the  heaviest  being  the  best ;  and  those  should  be  selected 
which,  on  being  pressed  by  the  thumb,  yield  to  it  with  a 
slight  cracking  noise.  Prefer  large  apples  to  small,  for 
the  waste  is  not  so  great  in  peeling  and  coring  them. 
Apples  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  place,  and  if  convenient 
should  be  laid  on  a  straw  bed,  which  is  a  great  safeguard 
against  decay. 


PLAIN   DIRECTIONS. 

"  Not  to  know  at  large  of  things  remote 
From  use,  obscure  and  subtle,  but  to  know 
That  which  before  us  lies  in  daily  life 
Is  the  prime  wisdom." 

MILTON. 

THE  knowledge  of  how  to  properly  cook  meat  is  not 
possessed  by  half  the  housewives  in  this  country.  The 
finest  cuts  of  meat  are  often  provided  and  then  utterly 
ruined  by  the  one  preparing  them  for  the  table.  This 
is  not  due  to  a  lack  of  interest  on  the  part  of  the  mother 
of  the  family,  but  to  the  fact  that  she  does  not  under- 
stand the  first  principles  of  cooking ;  and  the  result  is 
ruin  to  the  meat  and  often  to  the  health  of  the  family  as 
well.  A  few  principles  cover  the  entire  ground  and  can 
be  briefly  explained  without  going  into  the  chemistry  of 
meat  at  all  ;  and  when  these  are  once  understood,  the 
housewife  can  readily  apply  them,  much  to  her  enlighten- 
ment and  to  the  advantage  of  those  looking  to  her  for 
nutritious  and  well  prepared  food. 

Meat,  when  properly  cooked,  should  be  juicy,  well 
flavored  and  as  tender  as  possible.  It  is  largely  made  up 
of  albumen  and  fibrine,  and  when  these  are  exposed  to  a 
degree  of  heat  higher  than  the  boiling  point,  the  meat 
becomes  hard  and  indigestible.  With  the  following  facts 

57 


58  THE  PA7"TERN  COOK-BOOK, 

well  in  mind,  the  young  housekeeper  need  make  no 
error  in  the  preparation  and  cooking  of  meat :  First,  heat 
higher  than  the  boiling  point  hardens  and  shrinks  meat, 
but  when  kept  at  the  boiling  point  for  a  long  time, 
it  will  make  the  meat  tender,  provided  there  is  plenty  of 
moisture.  Second,  meat  to  be  roasted  or  boiled  should 
be  exposed  for  the  first  fifteen  minutes  to  a  greater 
degree  of  heat  than  the  boiling  point,  so  that  the  surface 
of  the  meat  may  be  crusted  and  hardened  to  keep  in  the 
juices.  Third,  the  heat  must  not  be  allowed  to  fall  below 
the  boiling  point  while  the  meat  is  cooking,  that  tempera- 
ture being  necessary  for  the  development  of  the  flavor. 
Thus  we  see  that  the  meat  must  first  be  treated  to  a  high 
degree  of  heat,  to  close  the  pores  of  the  surface,  after 
which  it  must  be  maintained  uniformly  at  boiling  point 
(212°)  until  the  cooking  is  done. 

ROASTING. 

There  are  three  modes  of  roasting — before  the  coals, 
under  a  sheet  of  flame  in  a  gas  stove,  and  in  an  ordinary 
range  or  stove.  The  last  named  process  is  unanimously 
conceded  to  be  inferior  to  either  of  the  others,  but 
the  oven  is  always  available  while  the  first  two  are  not, 
unless  special  preparation  has  been  made  for  the 
work. 

For  roasting  before  the  fire  it  is  necessary  to  have  the 
range  constructed  for  this  purpose,  and  a  tin  screen  with 
a  spit  and  jack  to  place  Before  the  coals,  on  which  to  do 
the  work.  Some  of  the  roasters  are  arranged  with  a 
spring-jack;  the  meat  is  placed  on  the  spit  and  the 
spring  wound  up,  which  sets  the  meat  revolving  slowly 
before  the  fire.  The  meat  should  first  be  placed  near 


PLAIN  DIREC TIONS.  5 9 

the  coals  to  quickly  crust  the  surface,  and  then  moved 
back  a  little  to  cook  through  without  burning.  Baste 
the  meat  frequently  ;  and  if  the  roast  is  very  large,  it 
should  be  surrounded  with  a  buttered  paper.  Just  before 
the  meat  is  done,  it  should  be  basted  with  a  little  butter, 
then  sprinkled  with  flour  and  placed  nearer  the  fire  to 
brown.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt  upon  the  roast,  but  not 
until  it  is  ready  to  serve,  as  salt  draws  out  the  juices. 
The  fire  should  be  made  ready  some  time  before  putting 
in  the  meat,  that  trre  coals  may  be  bright  and  hot ;  and 
it  should  be  strong  enough  to  last  through  the  roasting, 
with  possibly  the  addition  of  a  little  coal. 

In  roasting  in  a  pan,  the  meat  should  be  placed  on  a 
meat  rest,  and  thus  raised  from  the  bottom  of  the  baking 
pan.  (This  rest  is  described  among  the  kitchen  utensils.) 
Dredge  the  meat  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper  it,  and  sprin- 
kle a  quantity  of  flour  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  The 
salt  draws  out  the  juices,  but  the  flour  unites  with  them, 
making  a  paste  that  soon  hardens  and  imprisons  those 
within  the  meat.  When  the  flour  in  the  pan  is  brown, 
put  in  just  enough  water  to  cover  the  bottom.  After  the 
meat  has  browned,  it  should  be  basted  at  least  every  ten 
minutes,  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and  then  treated  to 
another  light  sprinkling  of  flour.  The  water  in  the  pan 
should  be  renewed  frequently,  but  none  should  be  added 
during  the  last  half  hour,  so  that  there  will  be  nothing 
remaining  in  the  pan  but  oil  and  sediment.  When  the 
meat  is  done,  lay  it  on  a  warm  platter,  lift  the  meat-rest 
from  the  pan,  pour  off  the  fat,  and  scrape  the  sediment 
from  the  sides  and  bottom.  Place  the  pan  on  the  stove, 
and  add  a  cupful  of  hot  water ;  when  this  has  boiled  up 
once,  stir  in  a  thickening  composed  of  flour  and  water 


60  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

rubbed  to  a  thin  paste,  pouring  in  only  a  little  of  the 
paste  at  a  time  so  the  gravy  will  not  be  too  thick.  Let 
the  gravy  boil  for  two  or  three  minutes  to  cook  the  flour, 
stirring  constantly ;  then  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
strain  into  a  hot  dish.  The  time  required  for  roasting 
meat  is  given  in  the  cook's  time-table. 

BROILING. 

is  cooking  directly  over  the  hot  coals.  This  is  one  of  the 
simplest  forms  of  cooking  meats,  yet  care,  niceness 
and  skill  are  required  to  broil  properly.  The  fire  should 
be  bright  red  and  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  fire-box,  so  that 
the  broiler  may  almost  touch  the  fire  ;  but  there  should 
be  no  flame.  The  wire  broiler  is  much  more  easily  man- 
aged than  the  iron  gridiron  ;  it  can  be  turned  quickly  and 
easily,  and,  if  the  fire  is  at  too  great  a  heat,  can  be  easily 
held  away  from  it  to  allow  the  fire  to  cool  down  to  the  de- 
sired point.  Grease  the  broiler  well  with  a  bit  of  fat  from 
the  meat,  and  place  the  thickest  part  of  whatever  is  to  be 
broiled  next  to  the  middle  of  the  broiler.  Do  not  salt  the 
meat  unless  a  sprinkling  of  flour  is  used  at  the  same 
time,  as  in  roasting ;  but  the  better  way  seems  to  be  to 
season  when  the  meat  is  cooked,  although  cooks  differ  on 
this  point.  Place  the  broiler  as  near  the  fire  as  possible, 
and  when  the  surface  of  the  meat  is  seared,  quickly 
turn  and  crust  the  other  side.  If  the  fat  that  drips  off 
catches  in  a  blaze,  quickly  remove  the  broiler  until  the 
flame  has  died  down,  and  throw  a  little  salt  on  the  fire  to 
clear  it  again.  Keep  turning  the  broiler  almost  con- 
stantly until  the  meat  is  cooked.  Never  thrust  a  fork 
into  the  lean  part  of  meat  that  is  broiling,  as  the  juice  is 
thus  started  and  much  of  it  escapes.  Cook  ten  -min- 


PLAIN  DIRECTIONS.  6 1 

utes  if  the  meat  is  an  inch  thick,  so  as  to  have  it  a  fine 
rare  dressing.  Butter  well,  and  serve  very  hot.  The 
smaller  and  thinner  the  article  to  be  broiled,  the  hotter 
should  be  the  fire  ;  and  the  larger  the  piece,  the  more 
moderate  should  be  the  fire  or  the  greater  the  distance  at 
which  the  meat  should  be  held  from  the  heat. 

In  broiling  fish,  buttered  paper  is  generally  first 
wrapped  around  it  to  prevent  burning.  When  it  is 
broiled  without  paper,  rub  the  broiler  well  with  butter 
and  have  it  slightly  heated.  To  preserve  the  skin  of 
broiled  fish  entire,  dip  the  fish,  as  soon  as  it  has  been 
washed  and  cleaned,  in  vinegar  for  a  second,  dry  it  in  a 
cloth,  and  flour  it. 

Chops,  bacon  and  birds,  as  well  as  fish,  are  often 
broiled  in  paper.  To  broil  in  this  way,  proceed  as  fol- 
lows :  Take  a  large  sheet  of  white  letter-paper,  and  rub  it 
well  with  butter,  to  keep  out  the  air.  Season  the  chop  or 
bird  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  it  near  the  center  of  the 
paper,  and  fold  the  edges  of  the  covering  over  several 
times,  pinching  them  together  close  to  the  meat.  The 
paper  will  char  a  long  time  before  it  blazes,  if  care  be 
taken  not  to  break  through  the  paper  and  thus  admit  the 
air  and  let  out  the  fat  and  juice  that  will  have  come  from 
the  meat.  The  meat  will  be  basted  in  its  own  juice.  A 
longer  time  is  required  for  broiling  in  this  way,  but  when 
the  paper  is  well  browned,  the  meat  is  done.  Birds  to  be 
broiled  are  cut  open  and  the  inside  laid  to  the  fire 
first. 

Anything  egged  and  crumbed  should  be  well  buttered 
before  broiling.  The  broiler  should  be  covered  with  a  tin 
pan  or  a  baking  pan  when  pieces  that  require  any  length 
of  time  to  dress  are  to  be  broiled.  In  broiling  a  good- 


62  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

sized  chicken  a  great  amount  of  care  is  required,  and 
really  none  but  a  professional  can  be  sure  of  the  result. 
The  amateur  will  be  better  pleased  to  broil  the  chicken 
only  long  enough  to  give  it  a  rich  brown  tone  on  all 
sides,  and  then  put  it  in  a  shallow  pan  or  a  frying-pan, 
and  finish  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Pan-broiling  is  broiling  in  a  hissing  hot  frying-pan. 
This  way  often  has  to  be  relied  upon  when  wood  is 
burned  instead  of  coal,  the  difficulty  of  securing  a  deep 
bed  of  wood  coals  to  broil  over  being  not  easily  over- 
come. Heat  the  pan  very  hot  and  rub  across  it  once 
with  a  bit  of  fat  from  the  meat,  to  keep  the  latter  from 
sticking  to  the  pan  ;  but  do  not  leave  any  fat  in  the  pan. 
Sear  the  meat  quickly  on  one  side,  then  turn  it  carefully 
(without  piercing  the  lean  of  the  meat)  and  brown  the 
other  side  before  any  juice  escapes  into  the  pan.  Cook 
about  five  minutes  for  meat  an  inch  thick,  if  it  be  liked 
dressed  rare,  turning  it  twice ;  and  serve  very  hot,  after 
seasoning  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  This  is  not  fry- 
ing or  rather  sauteing,  but  broiling  on  iron,  and  the 
flavor  of  meat  prepared  in  this  way  is  excellent. 

BOILING. 

Salted  meats,  such  as  ham,  corned-beef,  salt  tongue, 
etc.,  should  be  put  on  the  fire  to  boil  in  cold  water,  to 
draw  out  the  salt,  and  should  be  gently  brought  to  the 
boiling  point  and  kept  there,  rapid  boiling  being  carefully 
avoided,  as  it  hardens  and  ruins  the  meat.  All  other 
meats  should  be  plunged  in  boiling  water  at  the  first,  and 
when  the  water  boils  again  (it  will  be  cooled  somewhat 
when  the  meat  is  put  in)  skim  it  and  keep  it  at  the  boil- 
ing point  for  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  draw  the  kettle  away 


PLAIN  DIRECTIONS.  63 

from  the  fire,  where  it  will  be  kept  at  just  the  bubbling 
point,  care  being  taken  that  the  water  never  gets  below 
this  heat  while  the  meat  is  cooking.  If  these  directions 
are  followed,  every  piece  of  boiled  meat  will  be  found 
tender  and  juicy  when  done  and  will  cut  smoothly,  while 
meat  that  has  been  boiled  rapidly  will  break  into  long 
shreds  when  cut,  and  will  be  hard  and  tasteless. 

Fish  that  is  to  be  boiled  should  first  be  wrapped  in 
cheese-cloth,  the  cloth  being  pinned  or  tied  together  at 
the  lapping  places ;  the  fish  can  thus  be  easily  kept  from 
breaking.  When  done  it  should  be  lifted  out  by  the 
cloth  and  drained  thoroughly  before  being  placed  on  the 
serving  dish. 

FRYING 

is  cooking  by  immersion  in  hot  fat.  The  fat  should  be 
deep  enough  to  entirely  cover  the  article  to  be  cooked, 
and  as  the  same  fat  may  be  used  many  times,  it  is 
not  so  extravagant  to  take  such  a  quantity  as  some  house- 
keepers think.  The  careful  cook  saves  all  the  fat  that 
can  be  collected  from  boiling  meat  of  any  sort,  the  fat 
ends  of  steaks  and  mutton-chops,  and  from  all  other 
sources  of  this  kind.  The  fat  should,  however,  be  clari- 
fied before  using. 

TO  CLARIFY  FAT, 

place  it  on  the  stove  in  the  frying-pan,  and  heat  it  slowly. 
When  the  fat  is  melted,  set  it  where  it  will  simply 
bubble,  and  keep  it  there  until  there  is  no  motion  and  all 
the  sediment  has  fallen  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Then 
drain  and  set  away  for  use.  Many  persons  object  to  the 
odor  of  clarifying  fat  and,  therefore,  place  the  frying-pan 


64  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

in  the  oven  to  melt  the  fat.  This  method  is  fully  as  suc- 
cessful, but  the  oven  should  not  be  too  hot,  and  it  should 
be  left  open  to  air  after  the  pan  has  been  removed. 
After  fat  has  been  used  a  number  of  times,  and  has 
become  darkened,  it  may  be  cleared  thus  :  Place  the  fat 
in  a  kettle  with  about  six  times  its  quantity  of  hot  water, 
and  boil  twenty  minutes.  Turn  the  liquid  into  a  large 
pan  and  set  in  a  cool  place.  When  cold,  the  fat  will  be 
found  in  a  solid  cake  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  but 
must  then  be  clarified  in  the  manner  already  described. 

The  secret  of  successful  frying  is  to  have  the  fat  hot 
enough  to  instantly  harden  the  surface  of  the  article  fried 
and  thus  prevent  the  fat  soaking  in.  The  fat 
should  be  heated  slowly,  and  when  blue  smoke  arises 
from  the  center  of  the  liquid,  drop  a  bit  of  bread  into  it  j 
if  the  bread  browns  in  one  minute,  the  fat  is  hot  enough. 
Only  the  experienced  can  know  what  is  meant  by  the 
words  "hot  fat"  ;  the  unskilled  in  housekeeping  will  have 
to  learn  by  tests.  The  word  "  boiling  "  as  applied  to  fat 
is  misleading,  as  it  would  imply  a  motion  of  the  liquid. 
When  fat  does  not  contain  any  foreign  substances,  there  is 
no  motion  to  it  at  this  degree  of  heat.  The  novice  can 
best  tell  by  watching  for  the  smoke  to  rise  from  the  center 
when  the  fat  is  hot  enough.  Coffee  sprinkled  on  the 
stove  while  frying  is  being  done  will  disguise  the  unpleas- 
ant smell,  but  it  is  a  matter  of  taste  which  odor  is  to  be 
preferred. 

The  frying-basket  is  fast  gaining  a  place  in  every 
kitchen.  After  placing  in  the  basket  the  articles  to  be 
fried — not,  however,  crowding  them  at  all — lower  the 
basket  gently  in  the  fat.  When  the  food  is  cooked,  lift 
the  basket,  drain  well,  place  in  on  a  plate  and  remove  the 


PLAIN  DIRECTIONS.  65 

articles  cooked.  Lay  them  on  brown  paper  that  has 
been  spread  in  a  warmed  pan.  If  properly  cooked  they 
will  hardly  stain  the  paper.  Doughnuts,  oysters,  cro- 
quettes of  all  kinds  and  many  other  dishes  are  cooked  in 
this  way.  The  frying-basket  is  illustrated  in  the  kitchen 
utensils. 

SAUT£ING. 

The  ordinary  method  of  frying  in  a  frying-pan  with 
only  a  little  fat,  doing  one  side  at  a  time,  is  called  by  the 
French  "  sauteing."  To  saute  well  the  work  must  be 
done  quickly  so  as  to  keep  the  juices  in  the  meat.  It  is 
by  many  considered  an  economical  mode  of  cooking 
small  articles  of  food  of  all  kinds.  Almost  everything 
that  is  sauteed  is  much  better  when  fried  by  immersion. 
Some  people,  however,  are  very  unwilling  to  make  the 
change  and  persist  in  cooking  in  the  old  way,  using  a 
little  half-hot  fat,  which  spatters  over  everything  near  it, 
soaks  into  fish  or'  meat,  and  is  often  served  as  the  only 
gravy. 

BRAISING. 

This  mode  of  cooking  is  most  successful  when  the 
meat  is  lacking  in  flavor  or  is  tough.  It  is,  when  properly 
done,  the  act  of  cooking  by  the  action  of  heat  above  as 
well  as  below  the  article  cooked.  The  braising-pan  (see 
Kitchen  Utensilsj  has  a  deep  cover,  on  which  live 
charcoal  is  placed.  The  pan  is  air  tight,  and  vegetables 
are  generally  placed  with  the  meat,  thus  imparting  any 
particular  flavor  desired.  Stock  is  added  to  the  pan  (if 
there  is  any  at  hand)  or  water  may  be  substituted. 
Braising  in  the  oven  is  much  easier,  and  the  result  is 
5 


66  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK 

practically  the  same.  A  deep  pan  with  a  close-fitting 
cover  will  answer  in  place  of  the  regular  pan,  but  the 
parts  must  not  be  soldered  together. 

LARDING. 

This  may  seem  to  many  a  difficult  and  unnecessary 
work.  The  only  implement  needed  is  a  larding  needle, 
which  costs  fifteen  cents  and  should  last  a  lifetime.  Any 
one  who  can  sew  can  lard,  as  it  is  merely  sewing  with 
strips  of  fat  bacon  or  pork,  leaving  the  fat  midway 
through  the  meat.  Lean  and  dry  meats  are  much 


improved  by  larding.  Take  a  piece  of  salt  pork  two 
inches  wide  and  four  inches  long,  and  shave  off  the  rind 
the  long  way  of  the  pork  ;  then  cut  the  same  way  as  the 
rind  two  or  three  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  cutting 
only  to  the  membrane  which  lies  about  an  inch  below  the 
rind,  as  this  is  the  firmest  part  of  the  pork.  Then  cut 
each  slice  across  the  width  into  strips  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
wide  and  thick  and  two  inches  long.  Insert  one  end 
of  a  lardon,  as  each  of  these  pieces  is  called,  in  the 
needle,  and  then  with  the  point  of  the  needle  take 


PL  A  IN  DIRE  C  TIONS.  6? 

up  a  stitch  half  an  inch  deep  and  one  inch  long 
across  the  surface  of  the  meat.  Draw  the  needle  through 
and  help  the  pork  to  follow  by  pushing  it  until  partly 
through ;  then  hold  the  end  of  the  pork,  and  draw  the 
needle  out,  leaving  the  pork  inserted  in  the  meat,  with 
the  ends  projecting  at  equal  lengths.  Take  up  more 
stitches  one  inch  apart,  in  parallel  rows,  until  the  whole 
surface  is  covered.  A  is  a  piece  of  meat  to  be  larded, 
and  the  numbers  show  the  strips  of  bacon  or  pork  as 
inserted,  6  being  the  needle  with  the  lardon  attached 
and  partly  drawn  through. 

BONING. 

This  is  not  difficult  work.  A  small  knife  with  a  short 
sharp,  pointed  blade  is  the  only  implement  required. 
The  aim  is  to  remove  the  flesh  from  the  bone  without 
cutting  it.  To  bone  a  fowl,  cut  off  the  neck  and  the  legs 
at  the  first  joint,  and  cut  the  skin  in  a  line  down  the  mid- 
dle of  the  back.  Then,  taking  first  one  side  of  the  cut  in 
your  fingers  and  then  the  other,  carefully  separate  the 
flesh  from  the  bones,  sliding  the  knife  close  to  each  bone. 
Unjoint  the  wings  and  the  legs -at  the  body-joint  and, 
cutting  close  to  the  bones,  draw  them,  turning  the  flesh 
of  the  legs  and  wings  inside  out.  When  all  the  bones 
are  out,  the  skin  and  flesh  can  be  readjusted  and  stuffed 
into  shape.  The  butcher  will  bone  when  so  ordered. 
The  bones  may  be  saved  for  soup. 

STEAMING. 

There  are  two  ways  of  doing  this  work — one  in  which 
the  meat  is  acted  upon  by  direct  contact  with  steam,  and 


68         f  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

the  other  in  which  the  steam  cooks  without  contact. 
Steaming  by  contact  is  done  by  placing  the  article  to  be 
cooked  in  a  steamer,  which  is  a  round  tin  vessel  with 
a  close-fitting  cover  and  a  perforated  bottom;  and 
then  setting  the  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  water  that  is 
kept  at  the  boiling  point  all  through  the  cooking.  Pud- 
dings are  very  delicious  when  steamed,  and  many  meats 
are  warmed  over  in  this  way,  with  good  results.  The 
other  way  of  steaming  is  done  in  a  cooking  pot  made 
expressly  for  this  purpose.  It  is  an  English  invention, 
and  something  very  similar  to  the  original  is  now 
sold  in  this  country.  This  vessel  consists  of  two  kettles 
one  set  inside  the  other,  the  upper  one  containing 
the  meat  and  the  lower  one  boiling  water.  The  arrange- 
ment for  the  action  of  the  steam  is  such  that  the 
latter  surrounds  the  upper  kettle,  even  the  lid  of  which  is 
so  constructed  that  the  steam  passes  into  it  also,  thus 
cooking  the  meat  in  its  own  juices  without  the  loss  of  any 
nutritive  properties. 


PLAIN  DIRECTIONS. 


6g 


Cook's  Time-Table. 


Roasting. 

Beef,  sirloin,  rare,  per  lb.,  8  to  10  min. 
Beef,  sirloin,  well  done,  per  lb.,  12  to 

15  min. 
Beef,  rolled  rib  or  rump,  per  lb.,  12  to 

15  min. 
Beef,  long  or  short  fillet,  per  lb.,  20  to 

30  min. 

Chickens,  per  lb.,  20  min. 
Fish,  if  long  and  thin,  per  lb.,  10  to  12 

min. 

Fish,  if  thick,  per  lb.,  15  min. 
Game,  30  to  40  min. 
Goose,  per  ib.,  18  to  20  min. 
Grouse,  30  min. 

Lamb,  well  done,  per  lb.,  15  min. 
Mutton,  well  done,  per  lb.,  15  min. 
Mutton,  rare,  per  lb.,  10  min. 
Pork,  well  done,  per  lb.,  25  min. 
Pigeons,  30  min. 
Small  Birds,  20  to  25  min. 
Turkey,  per  lb.,  20  min. 
Tame  Duck,  per  lb.,  40  to  60  min. 
Veal,  well  done,  per  ib.,  20  min. 
Venison,  per  lb.,  15  min. 

Baking- 
Bread,  40  to  60  min. 
Biscuit,  20  to  25  min. 
Beans,  4  to  6  hrs. 
Braised  Meat,  3  to  4  hrs. 
Cookies,  10  to  15  min. 
Custards,  15  to  20  min. 
CAKE: 

Sponge,  45  to  60  min 

Plain,  30  to  40  min. 

Layer,  6  to  8  min. 

Fruit,  2  to  3  hrs. 
Gems,  graham,  30  min. 
Gingerbread,  30  to  40  min. 
Potatoes,  45  to  60  min. 
PUDDINGS  : 

Bread,  i  hour. 

Indian,  2  to  3  hrs. 

Plum,  2  to  3  hrs. 

Rice  and  Tapioca,  i  hour. 
Rolls,  20  to  30  mm. 
Scolloped  Dishes,  20  to  30  min. 

Boiling. 

Asparagus,  20  min. 
Beef,  corned,  3  to  4  hrs. 
Beets  (young),  30  to  45  min. 
Cabbage,  45  to  60  min. 
Clams,  3  to  5  min. 
Corn  (green),  15  to  20  min. 


Celery,  20  to  30  min. 
Carrots,  30  to  45  min. 
Cauliflower,  30  to  45  min. 
Chickens,  i  to  2  hrs. 
Coffee,  3  to  5  min. 
Cod,  per  lb.,  6  min. 
Eggs  (soft),  3  to  5  min. 
Eggs  (hard),  15  to  20  min. 
Fowls,  per  lb.,  25  min. 
Fish  (small),  per  lb.,  6  min. 
Fish,  blue,  per  lb.,  10  min. 
Fish,  bass,  10  min. 
Ham,  4  to  5  hrs. 
Haddock,  per  lb.,  6  min. 
Halibut,  per  lb.,  15  min. 
Hominy,  i  to  2  hrs. 
Lamb,  i  to  2  hrs. 
Macaroni,  30  to  45  min. 
Oysters,  3  to  5  min. 
Onions,  30  to  45  min. 
Oatmeal,  i  to  2  hrs. 
Potatoes,  20  to  30  min. 
Peas,  15  to  20  min. 
Parsnips,  30  to  45  min. 
Rice,  15  to  20  min. 
Squash,  20  to  30  min. 
Spinach,  20  to  30  min. 
Salsify,  45  to  60  min. 
Salmon,  per  lb.,  15  min. 
Sweetbreads,  20  to  30  min. 
Tomatoes,  15  to  20  min. 
Turnips,  30  to  45  min. 
Turkey,  per  lb.,  25  min. 
Tongue,  smoked,  3  to  4  hrs. 
Vegetables  (Winter),  i  to  2  hrs. 
Veal,  perlb.,  25  min. 
Wheat-mush,  i  to  2  hrs. 

Broiling. 

Beefsteak,  one  inch  thick,  rare,  10  min. 
Beefsteak,  one  inch  thick,  well  done, 

14  min. 

Chops  (Lamb),  4  min. 
Chickens  (small),  30  min. 
Fish  (thick),  20  min. 
Fish  (thin),  12  min. 

Frying  by  Immersion. 

Croquettes,  i  min. 
Chops  (breaded),  4  to  6  min. 
Doughnuts,  3  to  5  min. 
FISH  : 

Codfish  Balls,  i  min. 

Small  fish,  2  min. 

Smelts,  2  min. 

Sliced  Fish,  4  to  6  min. 
Fritters,  3  to  5  min. 


SOUPS. 

"  Man  shall  not  live  by  bread  alone." 

BIBLE. 

To  make  nutritious,  healthful  and  palatable  soup,  with 
flavors  properly  commingled,  is  an  art  which  requires 
much  study  and  practice.  There  seems  to  be  a  general 
impression  that  soups  should  be  made  from  almost  noth- 
ing, but  this  is  a  great  mistake,  although  it  often  happens 
that  a  scanty  allotment  of  material  makes  a  delicate  and 
truly  good  soup,  but  in  a  very  small  quantity. 

A  supply  of  materials  for  soup-making  should  always 
be  kept  on  hand,  such  as  dried  sweet  herbs  (which  may 
be  purchased  already  dried  if  the  housewife  does  not 
grow  them  herself),  whole  and  ground  spices  and  fresh 
vegetables.  In  every  pantry  should  be  an  earthenware 
bowl  for  keeping  the  remnants  of  steaks,  the  bones 
from  roasts,  etc.,  anything,  in  fact,  that  can  be  used 
in  soup.  After  breakfast  or  dinner  the  .wise  and 
careful  housewife  will  look  over  the  steaks,  chops  or 
roast  and  put  by  themselves  any  pieces  that  can  be  again 
used,  either  cold  or  for  entre'es  (made  dishes).  Then  all 
the  bones,  trimmings  and  the  gravy  will  be  put  in  the 
earthenware  bowl  just  mentioned,  to  be  used  for  soup. 
All  remnants  of  cooked  vegetables  will  be  saved,  and  the 
water  in  which  has  been  boiled  a  leg  of  mutton,  a  fowl,  a 

70 


SOUPS.  fi 

fresh  tongue'  or  a  piece  of  beef  will  be  utilized  as  a  basis 
for  soup.  Soup  may  either  be  made  with  what  is  called 
"  stock "  (when  meat  is  the  material  used  for  founda- 
tion), or  it  may  be  made  without  stock  and  is  then 
called  soupe  maigre. 

SOUP    WITH   STOCK. 

Under  this  head  are  included  all  the  varieties  of  soup 
made  from  beef,  veal,  mutton  or  poultry.  In  preparing 
soup  stock,  the  desired  object  is  to  obtain  from  the  meat 
all  the  nutritive  and  flavoring  qualities  contained  in  the 
lean  parts  and  in  the  bones.  To  accomplish  this,  the 
meat  should  be  wiped  well  and  cut  into  small  pieces ; 
this  is  to  expose  as  large  a  surface  as  possible  to  the 
action  of  the  heat  and  water.  Break  or  saw  the  bones 
also  into  small  pieces,  and  soak  both  meat  and  bones  in 
cold  soft  water,  allowing  a  quart  of  water  to  every  pound 
of  soup  material.  Having  soaked  the  meat  half  an  hour 
off  the  fire,  place  the  kettle  on  the  back  of  the  range  for 
another  half  hour,  after  which  the  water  can  be  slowly 
heated  to  boiling.  The  kettle  for  soup-making  should 
have  a  tight 'cover,  so  that  no  steam  can  escape,  or  so 
very  little  that  it  will  not  diminish  the  quantity  of  water 
to  any  extent.  The  water  should  be  soft,  since  hard 
water  hardens  the  meat  and  thus  imprisons  the  juices. 
No  salt  is  added,  for  the  same  reason. 

The  scum  that  rises  with  the  boiling  contains  nothing 
unclean^  unless  the  meat  has  not  been  properly  washed; 
and  although  uninviting-looking  it  should  not  be  skimmed 
off,  for  it  contains  much  that  is  nutritious.  When  the 
liquid  has  fully  reached  the  boiling  point,  set  the  kettle 
back  where  it  will  gently  bubble  for  about  six  hours. 


72  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Now  strain  the  stock,  and  throw  away  the  meat  and 
scraps,  because  all  the  nutriment  is,  or  should  be,  ex- 
tracted, thus  leaving  the  meat  entirely  unfit  for  further 
use.  Set  the  stock  away  to  cool,  as  rapidly  as  possible, 
and  the  next  day  remove  the  fat,  which  will  have  hard- 
'ened  on  the  top. 

This  is  the  simplest  way  of  making  soup-stock,  and  it 
can  be  made  the  foundation  for  a  plain  or  a  rich  soup,  if 
carefully  prepared.  There  should  not  be  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bone  to  each  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  meat  used.  If  a  larger  proportion  of  bone  must 
be  used,  make  the  allotment  of  water  a  little  less  than  a 
quart  to  every  pound. 

MEAT    FOR    STOCK. 

Stock  may  either  be  made  of  only  one  kind  of  meat  or 
of  several  different  kinds,  and  it  often  happens  that  the 
greater  the  variety  of  meats  employed  the  better  the 
flavor  of  the  soup  will  be.  Beef  is  the  most  valuable  and 
generally  the  cheapest  meat  to  buy  for  soup.  The  parts 
used  for  different  kinds  of  soup  are  as  follows :  For 
bouillon  or  consomme,  the  round,  flank,  shoulder  or 
brisket,  and  for  a  clear  beef  soup,  the  neck,  cheek,  leg, 
shin  or  any  scraggy  part  besides  the  bones.  A  shin  or 
leg  will  be  a  cheap  piece  to  use.  Butchers  do  not  break 
these  parts  into  small  enough  pieces,  for  the  leg  should 
be  cut  into  at  least  eight  or  ten  parts  and  washed  well 
in  cold  water.  When  the  cheek  and  neck  are  used, 
they  should  also  be  washed,  but  the  round  need  not  be  ; 
wipe  it  instead  with  a  wet  towel. 

Poultry  is  of  great  value  in  making  stock.  A  light, 
white  stock  may  be  very  economically  produced  thus  : 


SOUPS.  73 

Clean  and  truss  a  fowl  (skewer  it),  put  it,  breast  down,  in 
as  small  a  stew-pan  as  will  hold  it,  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  and  heat  it  slowly  to  the  boiling  point.  Let  it 
simmer  until  the  fowl  is  tender,  skimming  off  all  the 
scum,  so  that  the  soup  will  be  light ;  then  take  up  the 
fowl  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Strain  the  water,  set  it 
away,  and  when  cold,  remove  the  fat  that  forms  on  the 
top.  The  fowl  can  be  used  in  many  ways — for  breakfast 
or  luncheon  or  as  an  entree  for  dinner.  This  stock  will 
serve  as  the  basis  for  cream  soups  and  white  sauces. 
The  fowl  should  not  be  more  than  two  years  old.  Some- 
times the  feet  of  poultry  are  used  in  soup.  They  may  be 
cleaned  by  holding  them  with  tongs  over  clear  coals 
until  the  skin  cracks  and  curls,  when  it  can  be  rubbed 
off  easily  ;  or  they  may  be  covered  with  boiling  water  for 
a  few  minutes  and  then  scraped  free  of  skin  and  nails. 
They  give  body  to  a  soup.  Mutton  is  not  much  used  for 
stock.  When  it  is  so  used,  the  fat  should  all  be  stripped 
off  before  the  meat  is  placed  over  the  fire,  as  it  imparts 
an  exceedingly  unpleasant  flavor  to  the  stock.  The 
neck,  shoulders  and  feet  are  the  parts  generally  used  for 
this  purpose. 

Any  kind  of  game  may  be  used  for  stock. 

It  is,  of  course,  expensive  if  purchased  for  the  purpose, 
but  the  remnants  left  from  roasts  and  broils  will  be  found 
to  improve  stock  very  much. 

The  flesh  of  young  animals  is  rarely  used,  because  it 
does  not  produce  nearly  so  fine  a  flavor  as  that  of  the 
mature  animal. 

Veal  and  beef  are  most  largely  used  and  make  deli- 
ciously  smooth  soups.  The  best  parts  of  veal  are  the 
shin,  head  and  feet. 


74  THM  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOO^. 

TO    CLEAR    STOCK. 

When  the  stock  is  cloudy  and  a  clear  soup  is  desired,  it 
may  be  clarified  by  the  use  of  the  whites  and  shells  of 
eggs,  one  being  used  for  every  two  quarts  of  stock. 
Beat  the  egg  until  light,  but  not  dry,  and  put  it  and  the 
crushed  shell  in  the  cold  stock.  Place  the  stock  over 
the  fire,  heat  it  slowly  to  boiling,  and  boil  ten  min- 
utes ;  a  thick  scum  will  then  have  formed.  Draw  the 
stock  back  on  the  range,  and  add  half  a  cupful  of  cold 
water.  Now  let  it  stand  ten  minutes,  when  strain 
through  a  napkin,  placing  a  fine  wire  sieve  over  the  nap- 
kin to  catch  the  scum  and  shells,  which  would  otherwise 
clog  the  napkin. 

TO    SEASON    STOCK. 

In  warm  weather  when  stock  is  to  be  kept  for  five  or 
six  days,  it  is  better  not  to  use  vegetables  for  seasoning  at 
the  time  it  is  made,  because  vegetable  juices  ferment 
quickly  and  sour  the  stock.  It  is  'safer  to  add  the  sea- 
soning each  day  at  the  time  the  stock  is  cleared. 

To  season  and  clear  two  quarts  of  stock,  allow 

One  white  of  egg  and  the  shell. 

Two  blades  of  celery. 

One  bay-leaf. 

One-half  leaf  of  sage. 

Three  whole  cloves. 

Six  pepper-corns. 

One  inch  piece  of  cinnamon. 

One  small  onion. 

One-half  large  slice  of  carrot. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  small  sprig  of  thyme. 

One  small  sprig  of  summer  savory. 


so  i  rps.  75 

One  small  sprig  of  sweet  marjoram. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  sugar 
One  and  a  half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

The  herbs  should  be  tied  together.  Place  all  this  sea- 
soning, the  beaten  white  of  egg  and  the  crushed  shell, 
as  in  clearing  soup,  together  in  the  soup ;  heat  very 
slowly,  and  when  the  first  bubbling  appears,  move  the 
kettle  to  the  back  of  the  range,  where  it  will  keep  at  the 
boiling  point,  without  really  boiling.  The  kettle  should 
be  closely  covered  to  keep  the  soup  from  being  reduced. 
Let  it  stand  in  this  heat  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  strain. 
In  this  case  the  egg  is  left  in  longer  than  when  it  is 
simply  desired  to  clear  the  soup,  but  the  latter  will  only 
be  the  clearer  for  the  extra  length  of  time. 

When  seasoning  the  soup,  as  first  made,  add  the  differ- 
ent vegetables,  spices,  etc.,  as  soon  as  the  meat  is  put  on 
the  range,  unless  otherwise  directed  by  the  following 
recipe.  A  good  authority  on  soup-making  gives  this 
proportion  of  seasoning  to  be  used  :  Allowing  one  quart 
of  water  to  every  pound  of  meat  and  bone,  add  for  every 
quart  allowed, 

One  even  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
(  Two  pepper  corns,  or 
I  One  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  ground  pepper. 

Two  cloves. 

Two  allspice  berries. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  mixed  herbs. 
(  One  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  celery  salt,  or 
(  One  sprig  of  celery  root. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  table-spoonful  of  each\ vegetable  at  hand. 

The  vegetables  generally  used  are  onion,  carrots,  tur- 
nips and  celery,  and  they  should  be  cut  into  very  small 


;6  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

pieces  that  they  may  be  accurately  measured.  Strain  the 
soup  when  the  meat  has  boiled  to  rags,  and  set  it  away 
where  it  will  cool  quickly  ;  then  remove  the  cake  of  fat 
that  will  form  on  the  top.  This  fat  excludes  the  air  and 
helps  to  keep  the  stock  ;  so  if  the  soup  is  not  to  be  used 
at  once,  do  not  remove  the  fat  until  needed.  No  grease 
or  oil  should  ever  appear  upon  soup. 

If  "  a  hasty  plate  of  soup  "  is  to  be  made  and  there  is 
not  time  to  wait  for  the  stock  to  cool,  place  whatever 
may  be  needed  in  a  shallow  pan  and  set  it  in  another  pan 
of  cold  water — ice-water,  if  possible.  This  will  soon 
harden  the  fat.  If  there  is  not  even  time  for  this,  take 
off  all  the  oil  possible  with  a  spoon  and  wipe  the  rest  off 
with  soft  tissue  paper. 

Still  another  method  consists  in  straining  the  soup 
several  times  through  a  fine  napkin  that  has  been  rinsed 
in  cold  water ;  the  grease  will  adhere  to  the  cloth. 

With  this,  seasoned  stock  for  a  basis,  an  endless  variety 
of  soups  may  be  made.  This  stock  will  be  sufficiently 
clear  for  any  ordinary  soup,  but  for  clear  amber  soup  the 
egg  must  be  used  for  clarifying.  When  soup  is  made 
from  stock  and  rice,  sago,  tapioca,  macaroni  or  anything 
of  a  similar  nature,  except  vermicelli,  the  stock  should  not 
be  wasted  by  boiling  the  added  substance  in  it  long 
enough  to  cook  it ;  instead,  cook  this  matter  separately 
and,  having  drained  it  thoroughly,  add  it  to  the  soup. 
Vermicelli  cooks  in  five  minutes,  and  is,  therefore,  an 
exception  ;  it  should  be  crushed  in  the  hands  as  it  is 
dropped  into  the  kettle. 

THICKENING    FOR    STOCK. 

When  thickening  is  needed  for  a  clear  soup,  arrow-root, 


SOUPS. 


77 


corn  starch  or  fine  ground  tapioca  should  be  used, 
decided  preference  being  given  the  arrow-root.  When 
no  possible  trace  of  thickening  is  desired,  this  will  be  by 
far  the  most  satisfactory :  Allow  a  table-spoonful  of 
arrow-root  to  each  quart  of  stock,  wetting  the  arrow-root 
until  smooth  with  a  little  of  the  liquid ;  and  boil 
slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Corn  starch  gives  a  little 
cloudiness  to  the  soup,  but  it  is  used  in  the  same  propor- 
tion as  arrow-root.  Tapioca  in  the  same  proportion 
is  sprinkled  into  the  soup,  which  should  be  boiling  hot, 
and  should  boil  ten  minutes  after.  This  leaves  small 
grains  in  the  soup,  which  to  many  are  not  objectionable. 
Cream  soups  are  thickened  very  delicately  with  the 
yolks  of  eggs,  two  yolks  being  allowed  to  a  quart  of  soup. 
The  yolks  are  beaten  thoroughly  and  thinned  with  a  little 
cold  milk  before  being  added  to  the  soup,  which  should 
be  served  after  only  a  moment's  boiling. 

COLORING    FOR    STOCK.  - 

To  color  soup  brown  take  equal  parts  of  flour  and  but- 
ter and  brown  them  in  a  frying-pan,  stirring  constantly  to 
prevent  burning ;  when  well  browned,  add  to  the  soup. 
A  piece  of  bread  toasted  very  brown,  but  in  no  case 
burned,  may  be  simmered  in  the  soup  for  ten  minutes, 
serving  to  give  it  a  darker  color. 

Many  preparations  are  obtainable  for  coloring  soups, 
such  as  soup  paste,  beef  extract  and  caramel.  The  last 
is  most  frequently  used  and  is  easily  made  at  home. 
Melt  a  cupful  of  sugar,  either  white  or  brown,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  water  in  a  frying-pan,  stir  until  of  a 
dark  brown  color,  add  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  stir  for 
ten  minutes  and  cool  and  bottle  for  use.  Many 


7 8  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

housewives  keep  this  caramel  always  ready  for  use ; 
it  may  also  be  used  for  flavoring  custards  and  pudding 
sauces,  coloring  jelly,  etc. 

Spinach  greens,  which  some  professional  cooks  use  for 
coloring  soup,  is  made  thus :  Pound  the  uncooked 
spinach  well,  adding  a  few  drops  of  water ;  then  place 
the  whole  in  a  cloth,  squeeze  the  juice  through,  and  put 
it  over  a  good  fire.  When  the  liquor  looks  curdy,  take  it 
off,  and  strain  through  a  sieve.  What  remains  on  the 
sieve  is  the  coloring  matter,  and  the  juice  that  is  strained 
off  is  not  used. 

TO    BE    SERVED   IN    SOUP. 

Clear  soup  is  much  improved  by  dropping  into  the 
tureen  before  serving  a  number  of  poached  eggs  that 
have  been  cooked  in  salted  water  and  neatly  trimmed 
around,  one  egg  being  provided  for  each  plate.  Slices  of 
lemon  are  sometimes  added  just  before  serving  the  soup, 
one  slice  for  each  one  at  table ;  or  the  same  number  of 
yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs  may  be  dropped  into  the  soup. 
Fried  bread  may,  if  desired,  be  served  with  soup.  This 
is  made  by  cutting  neat  slices  of  bread  half  an  inch 
thick,  trimming  off  the  crusts,  and  dividing  the  slices  into 
half-inch  cubes,  which  are  then  placed  in  a  frying  basket 
and  plunged  into  hot  fat ;  they  should  brown  at  once. 
These  cubes  may  be  prepared  some  time  before  they  are 
needed  and  set  away  for  use.  The  hot  soup  is  poured 
over  them  when  served.  Crisped  crackers  are  often 
served  with  vegetable  soups  and  oyster  stews  and  in  fish 
chowders.  They  are  first  buttered  and  then  browned 
in  the  oven,  with  the  buttered  side  up. 

A  great  many  different  kinds  of  fried  and  baked  balls 


SOUPS.  79 

are    made    to  be   served    in   soup,  and  the  varieties  are 
here  given. 

FORCE-MEAT    BALLS. 

One  cupful  of  any  kind  of  cooked  meat. 

One  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  salt-spoonful  of  thyme. 

One-half  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Yolk  of  one  raw  egg. 

A  few  drops  of  onion  juice. 

Chop  the  meat  very  fine,  and  add  the  seasoning ;  beat 
the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  stir  it  into  the  meat ;  then  make 
the  mixture  into  balls  the  size  of  nutm'egs,  place  them  in 
a  soup  plate  and  sprinkle  with  flour,  shaking  the  plate 
until  the  balls  are  all  floured.  Place  the  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  brown,  drop  in  the  balls,  and 
shake  the  pan  occasionally  until  they  are  brown. 

PROFITEROLES    FOR    SOUP. 

One  gill  of  water. 
Two  gills  (scant)  of  flour. 
One-half  gill  of  butter. 
Two  eggs. 

Heat  the  water  to  boiling  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and 
put  in  the  butter,  and  when  the  liquid  boils  again,  add 
the  flour,  turning  it  in  all  at  one  time.  Beat  the  mixture 
well  for  two  or  three  minutes,  being  careful  not  to  burn 
it ;  then  turn  it  into  a  bowl  and  set  away  to  cool.  When 
cold,  add  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat  the  whole 


80  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

thoroughly  at  least  ten  minutes.  Butter  a  cake-pan  very 
lightly,  and  drop  the  mixture  into  it  in  tiny  balls.  Bake 
ten  minutes  and  set  away  until  time  to  serve  the  soup  ; 
then  place  the  balls  in  the  tureen  after  the  soup,  and 
serve  at  once. 

EGG    BALLS. 

Five  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-tenth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Boil  four  of  the  eggs  twenty  minutes,  and  mash  the 
yolks  to  a  smooth  paste  in  a  bowl ;  then  add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  the  other  egg  well  beaten.  Shape  the 
mass  into  tiny  balls,  roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry  brown  in 
the  frying-pan  with  a  little  butter,  tossing  them  about 
while  frying  to  prevent  them  sticking  to  the  pan.  They 
may  be  made  some  time  before  they  are  needed. 

BOUILLON. 

This  soup  is  served  as  a  first  course  at  luncheons  and 
at  evening  parties  in  bouillon  cups,  which  are  like  large 
coffee  cups  ;  or  it  may  be  served  in  coffee  or  tea  cups. 
It  may  be  made  with  or  without  vegetables,  the  latter 
method  being  the  most  common.  Recipes  are  given 
for  both,  the  quantities  named  being  sufficient  for  ten 
persons. 

BOUILLON   (WITHOUT  VEGETABLES). 

Six  pounds  of  beef  and  bone. 
Two  quarts  of  water. 
Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the   meat  in  small  pieces,  saw  the  bones   apart, 


SOUPS.  8 1 

and,  adding  the  cold  water,  heat  slowly  and  simmer 
five  hours  in  a  tightly  covered  soup  kettle.  Then  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve,  season  to  taste,  and  when  cold, 
remove  the  fat  that  has  formed.  Should  there  be  more 
than  ten  cupfuls,  reduce  to  that  quantity.  To  be  served 
hot. 

BOUILLON  (WITH  VEGETABLES). 

Five  pounds  of  round  of  beef  (no  bone). 

Two  and  a-half  quarts  of  water. 

One-half  of  a  large  onion. 

One-half  slice  of  carrot. 

One-half  slice  of  turnip. 

Eight  pepper-corns. 

Three  cloves. 

Two  eggs  (whites  only). 

One  and  a-half  inch  piece  of  cinnamon. 

One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  sprig  of  thyme. 

One  sprig  of  summer  savory. 

Two  small  bay-leaves. 

One  leaf  of  sage. 

One  and  a-half  stalks  of  celery. 

Having  removed  every  particle  of  fat  from  the  meat, 
cut  off  a  pound  of  the  lean  and  set  it  aside ;  then  cut  the 
remainder  into  small  pieces,  cover  with  the  water,  heat 
slowly,  and,  when  boiling,  move  back  on  the  range  where 
it  will  keep  at  the  bubbling  point  for  six.  hours.  At  the 
end  of  this  time  add  all  the  seasoning,  having  the  herbs 
tied  in  a  muslin  bag ;  simmer  one  hour,  remove  from  the 
fire,  strain,  and  set  away  to  cool.  The  next  morning  remove 
any  fat  that  may  have  collected  on  the  stock.  Chop  very 
fine  the  pound  of  meat  that  was  reserved,  and  place  it  in 
the  soup  on  the  fire,  beating  the  whites  of  eggs  at  the 
6 


82  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

same  time  and  adding  them,  with  the  shells,  while  the 
soup  is  yet  cool.  Heat  slowly,  and  when  bubbling  set 
the  soup  back,  tightly  covered,  and  keep  it  at  this  degree 
of  heat  for  one  hour.  Now  add  salt,  if  necessary,  and 
strain  through  a  napkin ;  the  soup  is  then  ready  to 
serve. 

AMBER   SOUP    (CONSOMM6). 

This  is  served  at  almost  all  company  dinners.  It  is  a 
light  soup  and,  therefore,  a  wise  choice. 

Four  pounds  of  the  shin  of  beef. 
(  Four  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  or 
\  Three  pounds  of  fowl. 

Four  quarts  of  water. 

Two  ounces  of  lean  ham  or  bacon. 

Six  cloves. 

Six  pepper  corns. 

One  bouquet  of  herbs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  onions. 

One  carrot. 

One  turnip. 

Two  stalks  of  celery. 

Two  sprigs  of  parsley. 

Three  eggs  (whites  and  shells). 

One  salt-spoonful  of  celery  seed. 

One  lemon  (rind  and  juice). 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  tomato  ketchup. 

Cut  the  meat  and  break  the  bones  into  small  pieces,  re- 
serving one  pound  of  the  beef.  Place  the  balance  on 
the  fire  with  the  water,  and  simmer  six  hours.  Add  the 
vegetables  and  spices  to  cook  the  last  two  hours,  having 
first  fried  the  vegetables  in  hot  fat ;  also  brown  the 
pound  of  beef  set  aside,  and  add  it  with  the  vegetables, 


When  the  soup  has  cooked  six  hours,  strain  it,  and 
set  away  to  cool.  Next  morning  remove  the  fat  that 
has  formed  and  add  the  well  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs 
and  the  shells,  and  also  the  celery  seed,  lemon,  salt  and 
pepper.  Heat  slowly  to  boiling,  and  cook  ten  minutes. 
Strain  through  the  finest  sieve,  add  more  salt  if  necessary, 
and  heat  again  before  serving.  This  soup  is  more  often 
served  clear  than  otherwise,  but  many  cooks  add  boiled 
rice,  spaghetti,  macaroni  or  pearl  barley  just  before 
serving.  Whatever  is  added  in  this  line  is"  cooked  in 
a  separate  stew-pan,  as  the  soup  would  be  too  much 
diminished  in  quantity  if  this  thickening  were  boiled  in  it 
until  clone. 

JULIENNE   SOUP. 

This  soup  is  served  with  the  vegetables  in  it. 

Two  quarts  of  stock. 
One  pint  of  turnip. 
One  pint  of  carrot. 
One  pint  of  celery. 
One  pint  of  fine  shredded  lettuce. 
*   One  gill  of  sorrel. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Cut  the  vegetables  in  slices  or  in  fancy  shapes  with 
vegetable  cutters,  and  put  them  in  a  frying-pan  with  the 
butter.  Set  the  pan  over  a  quick  fire  for  a  few  minutes, 
tossing  the  vegetables  about  until  they  are  covered  with 
a  thin  glaze,  and  being  careful  they  do  not  burn.  Now 
draw  the  pan  back  on  the  range  wh&re  the  vegetables 
will  cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  after  which  draw 
them  to  one  side  of  the  pan,  and  press  out  as  much  of 
the  butter  as  possible.  Meantime  place  the  lettuce  in 


84  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  boil  ten  minutes,  drain  and 
set  it  in  readiness  to  add  to  the  vegetables  as  soon  as 
done.  Then  put  the  vegetables  and  lettuce  in  the  stock, 
which  should  be  at  the  boiling  point ;  add  salt  and 
pepper,  cook  gently,  tightly  covered,  for  fifteen  minutes, 
and  serve. 

BEEF  SOUP,  WITH  BARLEY. 

This  soup  is  very  frequently  made,  an'd  as  its  cost  is 
small,  it  will  commend  itself  to  those  who  have  to  con- 
sider any  outlay,  however  small. 

Two  pounds  of  round  of  beef. 

Two  quarts  of  water. 

One  onion. 

One  slice  of  carrot. 

One  stalk  of  cel'ery. 

One  bay-leaf. 

Two  cloves. 

One  third  of  a  cupful  of  pearl  barley, 

One  table  spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Remove  all  the  fat  from  the  meat,  cut  the  latter  into 
small  pieces  and  chop  it  finely.  Place  the  meat  over  the 
fire  with  the  water,  heat  slowly  and  let  it  simmer  gently 
three  hours.  Add  the  vegetables,  and  simmer  one 
hour  longer.  Meantime  cook  the  barley  very  slowly  for 
two  hours  in  plenty  of  water  ;  then  strain  the  soup,  add 
to  it  the  barley,  and  let  all  boil  up.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  add  the  flour,  stirring  until  the 
paste  is  smooth  and  brown.  Turn  the  paste  into  the 
soup,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 


soups.  85 

TURKISH    SOUP. 

One  quart  of  stock. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  rice. 
«,  Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 

One  table-spoonful  of  cream. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  rice  and  stock  together  for  twenty  minutes, 
keeping  the  kettle  tightly  covered.  Press  them  through 
a  sieve,  returning  to  the  fire  all  that  runs  through.  Add 
to  this  the  cream,  into  which  has  been  stirred  the 
beaten  yolks  ;  and  cook  for  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring 
all  the  time  to  prevent  burning.  Season  and  serve  at 
once. 

MOCK    TURTLE    SOUP. 

The  basis  of  this  soup  is  calf's-head,  one  head  making 
six  quarts  of  soup.  This  may  seem  a  large  quantity 
of  soup  to  make  at  one  time,  but  it  will  keep  well.  Half 
of  a  head  cannot  be  bought,  so  it  is  necessary  to  make 
the  full  quantity. 

One  calf's  head 

Six  pounds  of  the  shin  of  veal. 

Eight  quarts  of  water 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  carrot. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  turnip. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  arrow-root. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  ketchup. 

Three  stalks  of  celery. 

One-half  blade  of  mace. 

Ten  cloves. 

Twenty  pepper-corns. 

One  bay-leaf. 


86  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Two  lemons. 

One  glass  of  sherry. 

One  small  piece  of  cinnamon. 

Have  the  butcher  split  and  scrape  the  head  and  saw» 
the  bone  of  the  veal  into  several  pieces.  Wash  all  care- 
fully. Place  the  head  in  a  large  pan  and  soak  it  for  two 
hours,  keeping  it  covered  with  cold  water  ;  then  take  it 
out,  drain  thoroughly,  remove  the  brains,  place  the  head 
and  shin  of  veal  in  the  soup-kettle  with  the  water,  heat 
slowly,  and  keep  at  the  boiling  point  for  three  hours. 
At  the  expiration  of  this  time  skim  out  the  shin  of  veal, 
and  also  remove  the  head,  being  careful  not  to  break  it. 
Strain  the  stock,  and  place  all  but  two  quarts  aside  to 
cool.  Return  the  two  quarts  to  the  kettle  with  the  shin 
of  veal,  add  the  spices,  cover  tightly,  and  permit  the 
whole  to  simmer  slowly.  Fry  the  vegetables  gently  in 
the  butter  for  twenty  minutes,  browning  them  at  the  last ; 
and,  adding  them  to  the  veal,  simmer  four  hours. 
Strain  the  stock,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  In  the  morning 
remove  the  fat,  and  place  the  two  quantities  of  stock 
together  on  the  fire  with  the  ketchup,  salt  and  pepper  ; 
and  when  all  boils  up,  add  the  lemon-juice,  the  wine  and 
the  face  of  the  calf's  head,  cut  in  strips.  Thin  slices  of 
lemon  cut  in  quarters,  egg-balls  or  force-meat  balls 
should  be  put  in  the  tureen  before  the  soup  is  turned  in, 
if  one  would  serve  it  correctly. 

OX-TAIL  SOUP. 

This  is  an  inexpensive  soup,  as  the  tails  can  generally 
be  purchased  for  a  very  small  sum. 

Two  ox-tails. 

Four  quarts  of  water. 


SOUPS.  8;v 

One  soup  bunch. 

One  onion  (sliced). 

Two  carrots. 

One  stalk  of  celery. 

Two  sprigs  of  parsley. 

One  slice  of  pork. 

Three  cloves. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  suit. 

Wash  and  unjoint  the  tails,  and  crack  the  bones,  if 
possible.  Slice  the  vegetables,  and,  mincing  the  pork, 
place  it  in  a  stew-pan  to  heat.  When  hot,  add  the  onion 
to  brown.  Fry  the  tails  also  in  this  fat  for  a  short  time, 
and  place  them  in  the  soup-kettle  with  the  water.  Sim- 
mer four  hours,  add  the  other  vegetables,  and  when 
these  are  very  tender,  the  soup  has  cooked  sufficiently. 
Now  strain  the  soup,  and,  having  chosen  a  number  of 
the  joints,  one  for  each  plate,  trim  them  nicely  and  set 
ihe  whole  away.  The  next  day  remove  the  fat  from  the 
soup,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  ketchup  or  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  as  preferred,  and  return  the  joints  saved  for 
the  purpose.  Heat  when  needed  for  the  table. 

MULLIGATAWNY    SOUP. 

This  is  an  Indian  soup,  and  is  served  at  many  hotels 
and  restaurants.  It  may  be  made  with  either  veal,  calf's 
head,  chicken  or  rabbit,  or  with  two  or  more  Of  these  in 
combination,  It  is  highly  seasoned  with  onions,  curry 
powder  and  sour  apples,  lemons  or  some  other  strong 
acid  fruit.  The  best  portions  of  the  meat  are  removed  as 
soon  as  tender  and  served  with  the  soup.  Boiled  rice 
should  always  accompany  Mulligatawny,  served  sepa- 
rately 


88  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Four  pounds  of  veal. 

One-half  pound  of  ham. 

Four  quarts  of  water. 

One  carrot. 

Two  onions. 

One  turnip. 

Four  cloves. 

Four  pepper-corns. 

Six  apples  (sliced) 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Have  the  bone  of  the  veal  well  broken,  and  place  the 
veal  in  the  soup-kettle  with  the  ham  and  the  water.  Fry 
the  onions  brown  in  a  little  butter,  and  put  them  with  the 
meat,  adding  at  the  same  time  the  sliced  apples,  vege- 
tables, cloves,  pepper-corns,  and  the  sugar  and  curry 
powder  mixed  to  a  paste  with  a  little  water.  Simmer 
gently  for  five  hours,  then  strain  and  set  away  to  cool. 
Remove  any  fat  that  forms,  and  return  to  the  range, 
placing  in  the  soup  at  the  same  time  a  piece  of  the  veal 
for  each  plate.  When  the  whole  is  thoroughly  heated, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  serve. 

TURKEY-BONE    SOUP. 

Never  throw  away  the  carcass  of  a  turkey  or  chicken, 
for  it  will  make  a  delicious  soup.  There  are  always 
portions  of  the  meat  adhering  to  the  bones,  the  neck  is 
generally  left,  and  the  "  drumsticks,"  or  the  ends  of  the 
wings  often  remain ;  and  all  these  can  go  to  form  a  soup 
for  the  next  day's  dinner,  or  for  luncheon.  Scrape  the 
meat  from  the  bones  and  lay  aside  any  nice  pieces. 
Remove  the  filling  separately,  break  the  bones,  pack 


SOUPS.  89 

them  in  a  kettle,  and  cover  with  cold  water,  adding  a 
small  onion.  Cover  closely  and  simmer  very  gently  for 
three  hours.  Then  strain  and  remove  the  fat,  and  return 
to  the  fire.  For  every  quart  of  stock  add  one  cup- 
ful of  the  cold  meat  and  three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of 
the  filling,  after  which  let  the  soup  simmer  half  an  hour, 
and  serve.  If  there  should  be  more  of  the  meat  left 
over,  it  can  be  used  for  making  an  entree.  This  soup 
may  be  greatly  improved  by  boiling  in  it  three  minutes 
before  serving  ten  oysters  to  each  quart  of  soup  made. 

WHITE   SOUP-STOCK 

is  made  from  veal  or  chicken  and  seasoned  with  onion, 
celery  salt  and  white  pepper,  everything  being  avoided 
that  will  add  color  to  it.  It  may  be  thickened  with  rice, 
arrow-root,  corn-starch  or  the  white  meat  of  the  chicken, 
chopped  fine ;  and  is  often  made  even  richer  by  the 
addition  of  milk  or  cream. 

WHITE  SOUP.  (FROM  VEAL.) 

Four  pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal. 

Three  quarts  of  water. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Six  pepper-corns. 

Two  small  onions. 

Two  stalks  of  celery. 

One  salt-spoonful  of  celery  salt. 

One-half  salt-spoonful  of  white  pepper. 

Cut  the  veal    into   small  pieces,  and  place  it   in   the 
kettle  with  the  water.     Heat  slowly  and  skim,  and  then 


go  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

add  the  salt,  pepper-corns,  onions  and  celery.  Let  the 
stock  simmer  for  five  hours,  strain,  and  when  cold 
remove  the  fat  that  may  have  formed ;  then  place  the 
stock  over  the  fire,  and  when  it  is  bubbling  hot,  thicken 
with  the  com- starch,  first  wetfing  the  starch  with  a  little 
cold  stock  or  water.  Season  with  the  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  at  the  last  turn  in  the  milk,  heated  to 
boiling  point  in  a  farina-kettle.  This  should  make 
but  two  quarts  of  soup,  and  the  stock  should  be 
boiled  down  to  a  pint  and  a-half  before  the  milk  is 
added — provided,  of  course,  the  stock  exceeds  that  quan- 
tity. 

SOUP   WITHOUT  STOCK. 

To  make  this  the  housewife  need  have  little  experi- 
ence of  her  own,  provided  she  follows  the  directions 
carefully.  Most  soup  without  stock  is  quickly  made  and, 
therefore,  commends  itself  highly  to  the  cook  who  is 
pressed  for  time. 

TOMATO   SOUP. 

For  this  take  equal  parts  of  tomato  and  water.  If 
fresh  tomatoes  are  available,  pour  boiling  hot  water  upon 
them  to  loosen  the  skins,  and  having  removed  these  by 
plunging  the  tomatoes  quickly  into  cold  water  after  they 
have  stood  one  minute  in  the  hot  water,  cut  the  toma- 
toes in  slices  to  more  accurately  measure  them,  and  allow 
as  above.  Cook  the  water  and  tomato  rather  slowly  for 
half  an  hour,  and  strain  through  a  fine  wire  sieve,  such 
as  is  commonly  used  for  sifting  flour,  pulping  through  all 
the  soft  part  of  the  vegetable  and  leaving  only  the  seeds 
in  the  sieve.  Return  to  the  fire,  and  season  with  butter, 


SOUPS.  91 

salt  and  pepper.  Thicken  the  soup  with  a  little  corn- 
starch  wet  in  some  of  the  soup,  allowing  one  table-spoon- 
ful of  starch  to  every  three  pints  of  soup.  Boiled  rice, 
macaroni  or  vermicelli  may  be  added,  with  good  effect. 

MOCK-BISQUE   SOUP. 

One  pint  of  tomato. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  tomatoes  alone  half  an  hour,  adding  the 
seasoning  and  soda.  When  the  tomatoes  are  soft,  pulp 
them  through  a  fine  sieve  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  Heat  the  milk  in  a  farina-kettle,  or  in  a  tin 
pail  set  in  a  kettle  of  water,  and  when  it  is  scalding 
thicken  it  with  the  corn-starch  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk. 
If  ready  to  serve,  add  the  boiling  milk  to  the  tomatoes, 
stir  and  dish  at  once.  This  soup  must  not  go  on  the  fire 
after  the  milk  and  tomatoes  are  put  together  or  the  milk 
will  curdle.  If  the  soup  is  made  before  it  is  needed,  let 
the  tomato  and  milk  remain  in  separate  vessels,  and  mix 
them  just  before  sending  to  table. 

CRAB    AND  TOMATO    BISQUE 

is  made  like  the  above,  except  that  a  pint  of  crab  meat  is 
added  to  the  milk,  and  after  the  milk  is  thickened  and 
cooked  three  minutes,  the  whole  is  turned  into  the  toma- 
toes. Canned  crab  meat  may  be  used  when  the  fresh  is 
not  available. 


92  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BEAN    SOUP. 

One  pint  of  beans. 
Two  quarts  of  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

The  "  scarlet  runners  "  are  the  best  beans  for  soup. 
Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  three  quarts  of  cold  water, 
and  next  morning  drain  and  add  two  quarts  of  water. 
Cook  the  beans  slowly  for  three  hours,  stirring  fre- 
quently;  and  when  they  are  soft,  pulp  them  through  a 
fine  wire  sieve,  leaving  only  the  skins  in  the  sieve. 
Return  to  the  kettle,  add  the  seasoning,  cook  ten  minutes 
longer,  and  serve.  Dish  with  toasted  or  fried  bread. 

CORN  SOUP. 

One  can  of  corn,  or 

One  pint  cut  fresh  from  the  cob. 

Two  and  a-half  pints  of  milk. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  table -spoonfuls  of  flour, 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion, 

Two  eggs  (the  yolks  only). 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Mash  the  corn  as  fine  as  possible  and  cook  it  fifteen 
minutes  in  one  quart  of  the  milk  placed  in  a  double 
boiler.  Cook  the  onion  in  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan  for 
ten  minutes,  then  add  the  flour,  and  cook  until  the  mixture 
becomes  frothy,  being  careful  not  to  brown  it.  Stir  this 
into  the  corn  and  milk,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook 
ten  minutes  longer.  At  the  end  of  this  time  rub  the 
soup  through  a  fine  sieve  and  return  it  to  the  fire.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  add  to  them  the  half  pint  of 


SOUPS.  93 

milk  remaining,  and  stir  the  liquid  into  the  soup.  Cook 
one  minute  longer,  stirring  all  the  time,  and  serve  at 
once.  When  fresh  corn  is  at  hand,  many  cooks  break 
the  cobs  into  small  pieces  and  boil  them  thirty  minutes 
in  enough  water  to  cover  them,  and  they  add  this  water 
to  the  corn  while  cooking  in  the  milk.  There  should  in 
no  instance  be  more  than  a  pint  of  this  liquid  for  the 
above  quantity,  and  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour  will  be 
added  instead  of  two,  to  give  the  soup  the  desired  con- 
sistence. 

CELERY    SOUP. 

One  head  of  celery. 

One  pint  of  water. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

This  is  a  good  way  to  utilize  the  portions  of  celery 
that  are  not  presentable  for  the  table.  Cut  the  celery 
into  half-inch  lengths,  and  boil  it  in  the  water  until  soft, 
mashing  it  as  much  as  possible.  Cook  the  onion  ten 
minutes  in  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  and  add  both  to 
the  celery.  Rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  and 
return  to  the  fire  ;  then  make  a  paste  of  the  butter  and 
flour,  stir  it  into  the  boiling  soup,  season  and  serve. 

NOODLE   SOUP. 

Three  pints  of  milk. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Noodles. 

One   slice  of  onion. 

A  bit  of  mace. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


94  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Put  all  but  a  cupful  of  the  milk  on  the  stove  in  a 
double  boiler,  placing  the  onion  and  mace  in  the  milk. 
Mix  the  flour  and  cold  milk  together  until  smooth,  and 
stir  this  paste  into  the  boiling  milk.  Next  add  the  sea- 
soning and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  put  in  the 
noodles,  and  cook  five  minutes  more. 

NOODLES    FOR    SOUP. 

Beat  with  one  egg  a  half-cupful  of  flour  and  one-fourth 
of  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt.  Work  this  dough  with  the  hands 
until  it  becomes  smooth  and  like  putty ;  then  roll  it 
as  thin  as  a  wafer  on  a  well  floured  moulding-board.  Let 
this  sheet  of  dough  lie  for  five  minutes,  after  which 
roll  it  up  loosely,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  from. the 
end  into  very  thin  slices,  forming  little  wheels  or  curls. 
Spread  these  pieces  on  the  board  to  dry  for  half  an  hour 
— even  longer  will  do  no  harm.  Next  cook  them 
twenty-five  minutes  in  boiling  salted  water,  and  drain 
thoroughly  in  a  colander,  when  they  are  ready  for  use  in 
soup. 

OYSTER  SOUP. 

One  quart  of  oysters. 

Three  pints  of  milk. 

Butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Place  the  oysters  on  the  fire  in  their  own  liquor,  and  let 
them  gently  simmer  until  their  edges  "ruffle."  At  the 
same  time  put  the  milk  on  to  heat  in  a  double  boiler, 
and  when  it  is  at  the  scalding  point,  turn  it  over  the 
oysters.  Let  the  soup  stand  one  minute,  skim  well  with 
a  fine  skimmer,  season  and  serve  at  once.  If  a  richer 
soup  be  desired,  allow  equal  quantities  of  milk  and 


oysters.     Many  cooks  place  a  blade  of  mace  in  the  milk 
before  scalding,  but  this  is  a  matter  of  taste. 

CLAM  SOUP. 

• 

One-half  peck  of  clams,  in  the  shells. 

Two  eggs. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Butter,  pepper  and  salt  to  suit  the  taste. 

Wash  the  shells  thoroughly,  using  a  fine  brush  to  rid 
them  of  all  the  sand  in  the  seams,  and  place  them  in  a 
hot  oven  in  a  pan.  when  the  shells  will  quickly  open  ; 
then  extract  the  meat  and  chop  it  rather  finely.  Heat  the 
clam  liquor,  adding  whatever  may  be  in  the  pan  ;  and 
when  it  is  at  the  boiling  point,  add  the  chopped 
clams.  Heat  again,  remove  all  the  scum  that  will  arise, 
and  add  the  butter  and  pepper  and  a  little  salt.  Heat 
the  milk  in  a  double  boiler,  reserving  half  a  cupful  of  it. 
Now  beat  the  eggs  well,  turn  them  into  the  cold  milk, 
mix  thoroughly,  stir  the  whole  into  the  boiling  milk,  and 
pour  at  once  into  the  tureen.  Next  turn  in  the  boiled 
clams,  which  should  have  been  cooking  slowly  not  more 
than  five  minutes.  The  milk  and  clams  should  never  be 
put  over  the  fire  together,  or  the  milk  will  curdle. 


FISH. 

"  How  many  things  by  season,  seasoned  are 
To  their  right  praise  and  true  perfection." 

SHAKSPERE. 

•* 

FISH  being  abundant,  cheap  and  wholesome,  is  invalu- 
able as  food.  It  is  a  delicious  adjunct  to  any  dinner 
table,  and  in  many  families  suffices  for  a  good  dinner  by 
itself ;  but  it  requires  nice  and  careful  cooking.  Nothing 
is  more  unappetizing  than  a  piece  of  underdone  fish;  in- 
deed, no  food  requires  so  much  delicacy  in  handling  and 
dressing,  for  if  it  is  not  perfectly  fresh,  perfectly  cleaned 
and  thoroughly  cooked,  it  is  not  fit  to  appear  on  the  table. 

Salmon  is  the  richest  of  fish,  being  even  richer  and 
more  nutritious  than  meat.  Red-blooded  fish,  like 
salmon,  mackerel  and  blue-fish,  have  the  oil  distributed 
through  the  body.  They  are  too  rich  for  invalids,  and 
should  be  eaten  sparingly  by  people  who  are  not  very 
strong.  White  fish  has  the  oil  in  the  liver,  and  is  conse- 
quently more  digestible. 

TO   CLEAN    A    FISH, 

remove  the  scales  before  opening,  and  scrape  with  a 
sharp  knife  from  tail  to  head,  holding  the  knife  flat  and 
slanting,  and  scraping  slowly.  Split  the  fish  open,  if  a 

96 


FISH.  97 

large  one,  from  the  gills  half-way  down  the  lower  part  of 
the  body  ;  remove  the  entrails,  and  scrape  and  clean  the 
inside,  removing  all  the  blood  from  the  back-bone.  If 
the  fish  has  been  scaled  and  cleaned  by  the  dealer,  it 
should  always  be  scraped  again  about  the  head  and  tail, 
for  scales  are  sure  to  be  found  on  these  parts.  The 
blood  and  dark  substance  found  on  the  back-bone  should 
also  be  scraped  off.  If  the  fish  is  to  be  boiled  or  baked, 
the  tail  and  head  are  left  on,  and  the  fins  removed.  The 
fish  should  be  washed  carefully  in  cold  water,  and  dried 
before  cooking.  Fish  that  have  a  strong  flavor,  like 
sturgeon,  catfish  or  sword-fish,  should  be  soaked  a  few 
hours  in  strongly  salted  water.  Use  as  little  water  as 
possible  in  cleansing  fish  ;  and  the  more  expeditious  the 
work  is  done  at  this  point  the  better  will  be  the  flavor  of 
the  fish,  since  water  draws  out  the  juices  of  most  fish  if 
they  are  permitted  to  soak  in  it. 

Frozen  fish  should  be  well  thawed  out  in  cold  water  be- 
fore using.  Salt  fish  should  be  soaked  in  fresh  water  with 
the  skin  side  upward,  to  draw  out  the  salt.  Fish  should 
not  be  placed  in  the  ice-chest  near  milk  or  butter,  as  these 
articles  are  very  easily  tainted. 

TO   SKIN   A    FISH, 

cut  a  thin  strip  down  the  back,  taking  off  the  fin ;  and 
open  the  lower  part  half-way  down.  Then  slip  the  knife 
under  and  up  through  the  bony  part  of  the  gills,  and, 
holding  this  bony  part  between  the  thumb  and  finger, 
strip  the  skin  off  toward  the  tail.  Treat  the  other  side  in 
the  same  way.  Catfish  and  eels  are  always  skinned 
before  they  are  eaten. 
7 


98  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

FILLETS    OF    FISH 

are  the  flesh  separated  from  the  bone  and  served  in  dif- 
ferent ways.  In  flounders,  chicken  halibut  and  bass  the 
fillets  on  each  side  are  divided  lengthwise.  They  may  be 
served  in  the  form  in  which  they  are  cut,  or  they  may  be 
rolled  and  fastened  with  a  small  skewer. 

Fish  that  are  long  and  slender  are  served  on  long, 
slender  platters.  Boiled  and  fried  fish  are  often  brought 
to  table  on  a  napkin  ;  the  latter  is  folded  the  length  and 
width  of  the  fish,  and  placed  on  the  serving  dish,  the  fish 
being  laid  upon  it.  When  the  dish  is  large  enough,  a 
sauce  is  poured  around  the  fish,  no  .napkin  being  used  in 
this  case  ;  and  the  head  and  tail  are  garnished  with 
parsley.  Fillets  of  fish,  when  rolled,  are  arranged  in  a 
circle  on  the  dish,  the  sauce  being  poured  in  the  center. 
When  not  rolled,  they  are  .heaped  in  a  pyramid  in  the 
center  of  the  dish  ;  or  they  may  be  arranged  in  a  circle, 
one  fillet  overlapping  another.  The  center  is  then  filled 
with  sauce. 

FISH,    BOILED. 

To  boil  fish  properly,  a  fish  kettle  is  almost  indispen- 
sable (see  "  Kitchen  Utensils  "),  as  the  fish  can  then  be 
easily  lifted  out  without  risk  of  breaking  it.  If  there  is 
no  fish  kettle,  wrap  the  fish  well  in  a  good-sized  piece  of 
cheese-cloth,  pinning  the  lap  securely ;  if  care  be  exer- 
cised, it  can  be  nicely  lifted  out  by  the  cloth.  Another 
way  is  to  arrange  the  fish  in  a  circle  on  a  plate,  and  tie  a 
napkin  around  the  whole ;  when  the  fish  is  boiled,  lift  it 
out  by  the  napkin. 

Fish    to   boil    should   be  rubbed  with  a  little  vinegar 


FISH. 


99 


before  being  placed  in  the  water;  and  the  water  should 
be  salted,  and  made  acid  by  the  addition  of  lemon  juice 
or  vinegar.  This  whitens  the  fish  and  makes  the  flakes 
firm,  and  also  imparts  a  very  delicate  flavoring  to  it. 
Fish  that  is  to  be  served  with  the  skin  on  should  not  be 
put  in  cold  water  to  boil,  else  the  juices  will  be  drawn 
out  and  the  fish  rendered  insipid ;  and  yet  many  kinds  of 
fish  have  such  a  delicate  skin,  that  it  contracts  and  breaks 
if  put  in  hot  water,  thus  greatly  detracting  from  the  appe- 
tizing appearance  of  the  fish.  The  best  method  is  to  put 
into  the  fish  kettle  half  as  much  cold  water  as  is  required, 
place  the  fish  in  it,  and  then  gradually  add  boiling  water 
until  the  fish  is  covered,  care  being  taken  not  to  pour  the 
hot  water  directly  upon  the  fish.  In  this  way  the  skin 
contracts  slowly  and  does  not  break.  Mackerel,  trout, 
striped  bass,  etc.,  should  always  be  treated  in  this  man- 
ner. Fish  that  have  a  thick,  tough  skin  can  be  put  into 
"water  that  is  at  the  boiling  point,  but  not  bubbling. 
Halibut,  sturgeon  or  any  fish  that  is  not  served  with  the 
skin  on  should  be  placed  into  boiling  water.  The  water 
should,  never  boil  rapidly,  for  if  it  does,  the  fish  will  be 
broken  and  thus  rendered  unsightly.  Too  much  cooking 
makes  the  fibres  dry  and  woolly,  but  fish  should  be 
cooked  until  the  flakes  will  separate  easily.  (See 
"  Cook's  Time-Table "  for  the  proper  length  of  time 
to  boil.)  A  sauce  should  always  be  served  with  boiled 
fish,  otherwise  it  will  prove  a  decidedly  tame  and  unat- 
tractive course.  (See  "  Sauces  for  Fish.") 

TO    BOIL    AU    COURT    BOUILLON. 

This  is  a  favorite  way  of   boiling    a   fish,  *and    should 
have  an  English  title  that  would  suggest  the   really  easy 


100  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

manner  of  the  work,  instead  of  this  elaborate  French 
name.  It  is  simply  boiling  the  fish  in  water,  flavored 
with  vegetables.  Fry  in  a  little  butter  one  onion,  one 
stalk  of  celery  and  three  sprigs  of  parsley.  Then  add 
the  following : 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Six  pepper-corns. 

One  bay-leaf. 

Three  cloves. 

Two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 

One  pint  of  vinegar  or  sour  wine. 

Boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  skim  well,  strain,  and  boil  the  fish 
in  the  liquid.  First  rub  the  fish  with  lemon  juice  and 
salt,  then  place  it  in  a  kettle,  and  cover  it  with  the  court 
bouillon,  and  boil  it  slowly  until  done.  Serve  the  fish 
with  a  sauce,  the  same  as  if  it  were  plainly  boiled.  This 
court  bouillon  is  easily  preserved  and  may  be  used  several 
times. 

FISH,    BAKED. 

Cod,  haddock,  cusk,  blue-fish,  shad,  red-snappers, 
white  fish,  trout  and  many  other  kinds  of  fish  are  stuffed 
and  baked  whole.  Instead  of  the  wire  rack  used  for 
roasting  meat,  have  a  thick  sheet  of  tin,  with  rings  at  the 
ends  for  handles,  and  large  enough  to  fit  into  the  dripping- 
pan.  A  simple  sheet  of  tin  may  be  used,  without  handles. 
By  this  means  the  fish  can  be  easily  lifted  out  and  slipped 
into  the  serving  dish.  If  a  sheet  of  tin  is  not  at  hand, 
put  two  broad  strips  of  cotton  cloth  across  the  pan  before 
laying  the  fish  in  it,  and  when  the  latter  is  done  lift  it  out 
by  means  of  the  cloth.  Rub  the  sheet  well  with  fat  pork 
to  keep  the  fish  from  sticking  to  it,  and  also  place  pieces 


FISH.  10 1 

of  the  pork  under  the  fish  itself.  The  following  varieties 
of  stuffing  will  be  found  satisfactory  for  filling  fish  for 
baking. 

CRACKER    STUFFING. 

One  cupful  of  cracker-crumbs. 
Two-thirds  cupful  of  water  or  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 
One  table-spoonful  of  capers. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  cracker-crumbs,  add  all  the 
seasoning,  and  then  stir  in  the  water  or  milk.  This 
makes  a  crumbly  stuffing. 

STALE    BREAD    STUFFING. 

One  and  one-half  cupful  of  grated  bread-crumbs. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-fourth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Add  the  seasoning  and  butter  to  the  crumbs,  and  beat 
in  the  milk  last.  This  stuffing  is  more  commonly  made 
than  the  last. 

OYSTER    STUFFING. 

One  pint  of  oysters. 

One  cupful  of  powdered  cracker-crumbs. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 


102  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Chop  the  oysters  fine,  and  add  to  them  the  other 
ingredients,  mixing  well. 

Fish  will  bake  more  evenly  and  may  be  more  easily 
managed  in  every  way,  if  placed  upright  in  the  pan 
instead  of  on  their  sides.  Each  fish  may  be  propped  up 
with  pared  potatoes  or  a  cut  of  stale  bread  placed  on 
each  side.  Fish,  however,  that  are  long  and  narrow  may 
be  readily  tied  into  the  shape  of  the  letter  S,  thus  :  Hav- 
ing threaded  a  long  needle  with  twine,  tie  the  end  of  the 
twine  around  the  head  of  the  fish,  fastening  it  tightly ; 
then  pass  the  needle  through  the  center  part  of  the  body, 
draw  the  string  tight,  and  fasten  it  around  the  tail.  Fish 
thus  tied  will  retain  the  shape  after  they  are  baked. 

A  fish  that  is  to  be  baked  should  be  rubbed  with  salt, 
both  outside  and  inside  ;  then  stuff  and  fasten  the  rent  or 
opening  together  with  a  skewer  or  with  a  needle  and  thread. 
Rub  soft  butter  all  over  the  fish,  dredge  it  thickly  with 
flour,  and  lay  on  the  top  narrow  strips  of  fat  salt  pork. 
Now  pour  in  the  pan  just  enough  boiling  water  to  cover 
the  bottom,  and  bake  the  fish  in  a  hot  oven.  Baste 
every  ten  minutes  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan  and  a  little 
butter,  and  lightly  dredge  at  each  basting  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  flour.  When  the  fish  is  done,  remove  the 
skewer  or  strings,  and  place  the  fish  on  the  serving  dish. 
Set  the  pan  on  top  of  the  stove,  add  water  to  the 
gravy  until  there  is  a  full  pint  in  the  pan,  and  thicken 
with  one  table-spoonful  of  flour  wet  to  a  paste  with  a 
little  water ;  then  cook  the  gravy  three  minutes,  season 
to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  strain  through  a  sieve  and 
pour  it  around  the  fish.  If  the  sediment  in  the  pan  seems 
at  all  burnt,  do  not  use  it,  but  make  instead  a  brown  sauce, 
and  pour  it  around  the  fish.  (See  "  Sauces  for  Fish.") 


FISH.  103 

FISH,    BAKED    WITH    TOMATOES. 

•When  placing  the  fish  in  the  oven  put  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pan  four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  tomatoes,  either 
fresh  or  canned ;  and  baste  the  fish  with  them,  adding 
water  as  usual.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  pan  does 
not  become  dry,  for  the  tomatoes  will  soon  stick  to  it. 
The  gravy  is  made  as  directed  above,  but  if  by  any  acci- 
dent the  tomatoes  have  become  scorched,  serve  a  made 
tomato  sauce  with  the  fish.  (See  "  Sauces  for  Fish.") 
This  is  a  very  delicious  way  of  serving  baked  haddock. 

BAKED    BLUE-FISH. 

This  fish  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  varieties  for 
baking.  It  should  be  stuffed  with  a  bread  stuffing  and 
served  with  a  cream  sauce.  (See  "  Sauces  for  Fish.") 

BAKED    SHAD. 

Open  the  shad  only  far  enough  to  remove  the  roe,  and 
follow  the  directions  given  for  "  Baked  Fish."  Serve  the 
roe  on  a  small  platter,  giving  a  portion  to  each  person 
with  the  fish.  Roe  is  cooked  in  different  ways,  three  of 
which  are  given  below. 

BAKED  ROE. 

Drop  the  roe  gently  into  salted  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
boil  twenty  minutes,  but  not  rapidly.  Drain,  and.  lay  it  on 
a  buttered  tin  plate.  Dredge  the  roe  well  with  pepper 
and  salt,  spread  soft  butter  over  it,  and  lastly  dredge 
plentifully  with  flour.  Bake  in  the  oven  thirty  minutes, 
during  -which  time  baste  frequently  with  salt,  pepper, 
water  and  butter,  always  dredging  with  flour  after  each 
basting. 


IO4  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

FRIED    ROE. 

Cook  the  roe  ten  minutes  in  boiling  salted  water  to 
which  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar  has  been  added. 
Drain,  roll  it  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  cracker-crumbs — 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  until  brown  in  hot 
fat. 

SCALLOPED    ROE. 

Boil  as  for  fried  roe,  drain,  and  break  the  roe  up 
lightly  with  a  fork.  Make  a  white  sauce  (See  "  Sauces 
for  Fish.")  Sprinkle  a  layer  of  roe  in  a  baking  dish  ;  add 
half  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  well  beaten,  dropping  it  over  the 
top  of  the  roe ;  next  sprinkle  lightly  with  finely  chopped 
parsley;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice,  and  then  add  a  layer  of  the  white  sauce. 
Repeat  the  layers  of  roe,  egg,  seasoning  and  sauce,  cover 
with  bread-crumbs  and  bits  of  butter,  and  bake  until 
brown.  If  a  large  dish  is  required,  use  with  the  roe  any 
cold  flaked  fish  left  from  a  former  meal.  Various  kinds 
of  roe  may  be  prepared  the  same  as  shad  roe. 

HALIBUT   a  la  Creola. 

Four  pounds  of  fish. 

One  cupful  of  water. 

One  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes. 

One  slice  of  onion. 

Three  cloves. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  the  tomatoes,    water,    cloves   and  onion  on    the 


FISH.  105 

stove  in  a  stew-pan  to  boil.  Mix  the  butter  and  flour 
together,  stir  them  into  the  sauce  when  it  boils,  and  add 
the  salt  and  pepper.  Cook  ten  minutes,  and  strain  into  a 
bowl.  Pour  into  a  deep  plate  boiling  water  to  the  depth 
of  half  an  inch,  and  lay  the  fish  in  it  for  a  minute,  black- 
skin  side  down  ;  on  removing  the  fish  from  the  water 
the  black  skin  can  be  easily  taken  off.  Wash  the  fish  in 
cold  water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  lay  it  on 
the  baking  sheet  in  a  dripping-pan  ;  then  pour  half  the 
tomato  sauce  around  the  fish,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
forty-five  minutes,  basting  three  times  with  the  remainder 
of  the  tomato  sauce.  Serve  with  the  sauce  remaining  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  poured  around  the  dish. 

CARBONADE    OF    HALIBUT    OR    WHITE    FISH. 

Any  fish  from  which  solid  slices  of  flesh  can  be  cut 
may  be  used  for  a  carbonade.  The  two  varieties  men. 
tioned  above  are  delicious  prepared  in  this  way. 

Two  pounds  of  fish. 

Two  eggs. 

One  pint  of  dried  bread-crumbs. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  onion  juice. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cut  the  fish  into  pieces  about  three  inches  square  and 
one  inch  thick.  Place  the  butter,  salt,  pepper  and  onion 
juice  in  a  deep  plate  on  the  back  of  the  range,  and  melt 
the  butter ;  beat  the  eggs  until  light  in  another  plate,  and 
put  a  part  of  the  crumbs  in  a  third  plate.  Dip  the 
pieces  of  fish  first  in  the  melted  butter,  then  in  the  egg 
and  lastly  in  the  crumbs,  and  lay  them  in  a  dripping-pan 


I06  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

that  has  been  buttered  on  the  bottom,  sprinkling  what 
remains  of  the  egg  and  butter  over  the  carbonades. 
Cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  twelve  or  fifteen  minutes,  and 
serve  with  Hollandaise,  Tartare  or  maitre  d'hotel  sauce. 
(See  "  Sauces  for  Fish. ") 

BAKED    SALT    MACKEREL. 

Wash  a  salt  mackerel  well  and  soak  it  over  night  in 
three  quarts  of  cold  water,  laying  it  with  the  skin  side 
upward.  In  the  morning  lay  the  fish  on  its  back  in  a 
shallow  baking  tin  (not  too  large  for  the  fish),  and  pour 
over  it  a  pint  of  milk.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot 
oven,  stirring  into  the  milk  at  the  end  of  fifteen  minutes 
a  table-spoonful  each  of  flour  and  butter,  and  a  sprink- 
ling of  pepper,  all  rubbed  together  into  a  smooth  paste. 
Serve  with  the  thickened  milk  poured  around  the  fish. 
This  makes  a  very  palatable  breakfast  dish. 

FRIED    FISH. 

Mackerel,  salmon,  blue-fish  or  any  oily  fish  should 
never  be  fried.  Smelts,  perch  and  other  small  pan  fish 
are  fried  whole.  Cod,  halibut,  etc.,  should  be  skinned 
and  cut  in  slices  ?Pn  inch  thick  and  two  or  three  inches 
square.  Flounders  and  bass  may  be  cut  in  fillets,  if 
desired.  When  fish  has  been  kept  near  ice  or  is  frozen, 
it  should  be  warmed  gently  before  being  fried,  that 
which  is  frozen  being  laid  in  cold  water  to  thaw ;  other- 
wise the  fish  would  chill  the  fat  and  become  greasy. 
Enough  fat  should  be  used  to  cover  the  fish  nicely.  The 
frying  basket  should  be  used  for  smelts.  Test  the  fat 
before  using  it  by  throwing  in  a  crumb  of  bread ;  if 


FISH.  107 

the    bread   browns   in    half    a   minute,    the   fat   is    hot 
enough. 

To  prepare  fish  for  frying,  clean  and  dry  them,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  dredge  with  flour ;  then  dip 
them  into  beaten  egg,  and  roll  in  fine  bread  or 
cracker-crumbs.  If  this  does  not  cover  them  completely, 
repeat  the  process.  Smelts  are  not  split  open  and 
cleaned,  but  the  entrails  are  squeezed  out  carefully,  so 
as  not  to  bruise  the  fish  ;  and  the  heads  are  not 
removed.  The  smelts  are  washed  as  quickly  as  possible 
and  then  dried,  no  attempt  being  made  to  scale  them. 
All  fried  fish  should  be  thoroughly  drained  before  being 
served.  Another  way  of  preparing  fish  for  frying  is  to 
pepper  and  salt  them  and  roll  them  in  salted  corn 
meal. 

FRIED  EELS. 

Skin  the  eels  (if  this  has  not  already  been  done  by  the 
fishmonger),  cut  them  into  four-inch  lengths,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Then  roll  them  in  salted  corn 
meal,  and  fry. 

BROILED    FISH. 

Shad,  white  fish,  blue-fish,  young  -cod,  haddock  and 
many  other  kinds  of  fish  are  preferred  by  many  broiled. 
A  dry  fish  should  be  dipped  in  melted  butter  before 
broiling.  In  broiling  whole  fish,  like  shad,  split  them  the 
entire  length,  wash  quickly  in  water,  and  dry.  Rub  the 
bars  of  a  double  wire  broiler  with  butter,  and  place  the 
fish  in  it.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and  place 
over  a  clear  but  not  fierce  fire,  the  inside  of  the  fish 
being  turned  toward  the  fire  first.  Watch  it  carefully, 


108  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

and  turn  frequently.  On  taking  the  broiler  from  the  fire 
let  it  rest  upon  a  dish,  loosen  the  fish  from  the  wires  on 
both  sides  by  slipping  a  knife  between  the  fish  and  the 
wires  ;  then  raise  the  broiler  with  the  skin  side  of  the  fish 
up,  and  fold  the  broiler  together  on  the  under  side,  leav- 
ing the  fish  on  top.  Place  a  warm  platter  upside  down 
over  the  fish  upon  the  broiler,  and  turn  broiler,  fish  and 
platter  over  together.  Lift  the  broiler,  leaving  the  fish 
in  the  center  of  the  platter.  Serve  with  butter,  squeezing 
a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  over  the  fish,  if  desired. 
Shad  is  sometimes  served  with  a  cream  or  Bechamel 
sauce. 

OTHER  MODES  OF  DRESSING  FISH. 
SALT    CODFISH    IN    CREAM. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  fish. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  egg. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour  or  corn-starch. 

One-third  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Wash  the  fish,  tear  it  into  bits,  and  covering  it  with 
cold  water,  let  it  soak  over  night.  In  the  morning  pour 
off  the  water,  and  place  the  fish  on  the  fire  in  a  frying- 
pan,  adding  enough  fresh  cold  water  to  cover  it.  When 
the  water  reaches  the  boiling  point,  draw  the  pan  back 
where  it  will  keep  hot  for  fifteen  minutes,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  the  fish  should  be  cooked  sufficiently.  Rapid 
boiling  hardens  salt  fish,  so  the  cooking  can  scarcely  be 
too  slow.  Drain  the  fish  well,  and  place  it  in  a  double 
boiler  with  the  milk ;  or  if  great  care  be  taken,  the  milk 
can  be  poured  over  the  fish  in  the  pan.  If  the  latter  mode 
is  preferred,  the  milk  must  be  stirred  incessantly,  or  it 


FISH.  109 

will  scorch.  When  the  milk  is  at  boiling  heat,  stir  in 
the  flour  and  butter,  well  rubbed  together ;  or  if  corn- 
starch  is  used,  it  should  be  first  wet  with  a  little  cold 
milk.  Cook  slowly  for  five  minutes,  season  with  pepper 
and  a  little  salt,  if  needed,  and,  drawing  the  fish  away 
from  the  heat,  stir  in  the  beaten  egg  thinned  with  one 
table-spoonful  of  milk.  Let  the  whole  stand  two  min- 
utes, and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 

FISH    CHOWDER. 

Cut  a  pound  of  salt  pork  into  strips,  and  soak  it  in 
hot  water  for  five  minutes.  Place  a  layer  of  pork  in 
the  bottom  of  a  large  tin  pail.  Cut  four  pounds  of  sea- 
bass  or  cod  into  pieces  two  inches  square,  and  lay  enough 
of  the  fish  upon  the  pork  to  cover  it.  Follow  with  a 
layer  of  raw  sliced  potatoes,  then  a  thin  layer  of  chopped 
onion,  a  little  parsley,  summer  savory  or  any  herb  of  that 
sort ;  and  salt  and  pepper  lightly.  Next  add  a  layer  of 
Boston  crackers  or  pilot  or  sea  biscuits,  broken  rather  fine. 
Then  begin  again  with  a  layer  of  pork,  and  repeat  in  the 
same  order  until  all  the  fish  is  used,  having  crackers 
on  top.  Pour  over  the  whole  enough  water  to  cover  it, 
place  the  cover  on  the  pail,  and  set  the  latter  in  a  large 
kettle  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  simmer  slowly  three 
hours,  or  less  if  the  fish  and  potatoes  are  already  cooked, 
and  serve  with  slices  of  lemon. 

CODFISH  BALLS. 

One  quart  of  raw  sliced  potatoes. 

One  large  cupful  of  salt  fish. 

One  egg. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk, 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


I  10  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Pick  all  the  bones  from  the  fish,  shredding  the  latter 
finely ;  and  slowly  boil  the  fish  and  the  sliced  potatoes 
together  in  plenty  of  water,  until  the  potatoes  are  soft. 
Mash  both  together,  and  beat  until  fine  and  light ;  then 
add  the  seasoning,  butter  and  milk,  and  the  egg  well 
beaten,  mixing  all  thoroughly  with  a  spoon.  Have 
plenty  of  very  hot  fat  in  the  frying-pan,  and  into  it  drop 
the  mixture,  a  table-spoonful  at  a  time.  Do  not  use  the 
hands  to  form  the  cakes  into  balls,  as  is  sometimes  done, 
and  do  not  flour  the  cakes.  Made  in  this  way  they 
will  be  found  very  delicate  and  light ;  in  fact,  cooks 
who  have  tried  this  method  will  never  return  to  the 
old  way  of  making. 

SALT   MACKEREL. 

Clean  the  fish  by  scraping  off  any  rusty-looking  part 
and  the  thin  black  membrane  found  on  the  inside,  and 
lay  it  over  night  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  with  the  skin 
side  up.  In  the  morning  place  the  fish  in  a  frying-pan 
on  the  fire,  cover  with  fresh  water,  and  slowly  heat  to  the 
boiling  point.  Drain  off  this  water,  add  just  enough 
fresh  water  to  cook  the  fish,  and  boil  slowly  until  tender. 
Lift  the  mackerel  out  carefully  (a  pancake  shovel  will  be 
found  most  convenient  for  such  work),  and  place  it  on 
the  serving  dish  in  the  oven  to  keep  hot  while  the  gravy 
is  being  prepared.  This  is  made  as  follows :  drain  off 
the  water  left  in  the  frying-pan  after  the  removal  of  the 
fish,  until  there  is  a  half-pint  remaining,  and  pour  into 
the  pan  a  pint  of  milk.  When  the  liquid  boils,  add  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour  stirred  to  a  paste  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Let  the  gravy  boil  slowly  three  or  four  minutes,  stirring 


FISH.  1 1  I 

constantly ;  then  pour  it  over  the  mackerel.  This  sauce 
should  not  be  lumpy,  but  smooth  as  cream.  Mackerel 
cooked  in  this  way  makes  a  very  acceptable  breakfast 
dish. 

CANNED   SALMON. 

The  California  canned  salmon  is  one  of  the  greatest 
successes  achieved  by  the  canner's  art.  By  always  keep- 
ing a  few  cans  of  this  fish  in  the  house,  the  housewife  will 
be  able  at  a  moment's  notice  to  prepare  an  appetizing 
dish  for  breakfast  or  luncheon.  One  can  of  salmon  will 
be  sufficient  for  six  persons.  Place  the  salmon  in  a  small 
frying-pan,  and  pour  enough  milk  over  the  fish  to  nearly 
cover  it.  Cover  the  frying-pan,  and  let  its  contents  sim- 
mer slowly,  being  careful  to  keep  the  milk  just  at  the  bub- 
bling point.  Now  thicken  the  milk  with  a  table-spoonful 
of  corn-starch  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk,  adding  a  small 
quantity  at  a  time  to  the  boiling  milk,  so  the  latter  will 
not  become  too  thick.  Often  all  the  corn-starch  will  not 
be  needed,  the  quantity,  of  course,  depending  on  the 
amount  of  milk  used  on  the  fish ;  but  enough  thickening 
should  be  added  to  make  the  milk  like  cream.  Season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  serve  on  a  hot  platter. 
This  preparation  is  sometimes  served  on  nicely  toasted 
bread,  making  a  very  attractive-looking  dish. 

TO  COOK  FROGS'  LEGS. 

The  hind  legs  of  frogs  are  the  only  part  used  for  food. 
They  are  usually  sold  ready  for  cooking,  but  in  some 
places  they  are  to  be  purchased  just  as  taken  from  the 
frogs.  In  this  case  strip  off  the  skin  carefully  to  avoid 
tearing  the  tender  flesh,  wash  the  legs  in  cold  water,  and 


I  1 2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

dry  them  well  on  a  towel  or  napkin.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  lemon  juice.  For  six  legs,  thoroughly  beat 
up  one  egg,  and  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  dip  the 
legs  into  the  egg,  then  into  dried  bread-crumbs  or  fine 
cracker-crumbs,  plunge  them  into  boiling  fat,  and  fry  for 
five  minutes.  They  can  be  sauteed  in  a  frying-pan,  but 
are  not  then  so  nice  as  when  cooked  with  plenty  of  fat. 
Use  the  wire  frying-basket  for  them,  if  you  have  one. 
Frogs'  legs  are  served  for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  and  for 
the  latter  they  are  accompanied  by  Tartar  sauce.  (See 
"  Sauces  for  Fish.") 

FISH    REMNANTS. 

The  "left-over"  portions  of  cold  boiled  or  baked  fish 
may  be  used  in  many  ways.  The  fish  should  be  freed 
from  skin  and  bones  and  flaked. 

CUSK  &  la  Crime. 

One  pint  of  cold,  flaked  fish. 
9  One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 

One  small  slice  of  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One  bay-leaf. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  blade  of  mace. 

A  little  salt  and  pepper. 

Place  the  milk,  mace,  onion,  parsley  and  bay-leaf 
together  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  or  in  a  tin 
pail  set  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water.  Rub  the  butter  and 
flour  together,  stir  them  into  the  milk  when  it  has 
boiled,  and  cook  three  minutes.  Add  the  beaten 


FISH.  I  I  3 

yolks,  which  have  been  thinned  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
cold  milk  ;  boil  one  minute,  remove  from  the  fire  and 
strain,  adding  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Arrange  a  layer 
of  this  sauce  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish,  then  a  layer 
of  fish,  next  a  layer  of  sauce,  and  so  on  until  all  the 
sauce  and  fish  have  been  used,  placing  a  layer  of  sauce 
on  top.  Sprinkle  the  top  with  bread-crumbs  and  tiny  dots 
of  butter,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  brown.  Serve  in 
the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

FISH  a  la  Reine. 

One  pint  of  cold  flaked  fish. 

One-half  pint  of  milk  or  cream. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  egg  (yolk  only). 

Three  chopped  mushrooms,  if  you  have  them. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Put  the  butter  in  the  frying-pan,  and  when  it  melts  add 
the  flour;  then  gradually  add  the  milk,  stirring  thor- 
oughly. As  soon  as  the  milk  boils  turn  in  the  fish,  mush- 
rooms, salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  the  whole  very  slowly 
until  the  fish  is  thoroughly  heated.  Beat  the  yolk  of  egg 
lightly,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  milk  to  thin  it,  and  add 
the  parsley  and  egg  to  the  fish,  stirring  the  mixture  well 
together  for  a  minute,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

FISH    CROQUETTES. 

One  pint  o£  cold,  flaked  fish. 
One  pint  of  hot  mashed  potatoes. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  hot  milk. 


114  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  egg,  well  beaten. 

One-third  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Mix  the  fish  with  the  potatoes,  and  afterward  add  all 
the  other  ingredients,  putting  the  butter  into  the  hot  pota- 
toes to  melt.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  shape  into  balls,  dip  them  into  beaten  egg, 
and  roll  in  cracker-crumbs  or  fine  bread-crumbs.  Just 
before  serving  time,  place  the  croquettes  in  a  frying 
basket,  and  plunge  them  in  boiling  fat.  Cook  for  two 
minutes,  drain  well,  and  serve  at  once.  If  the  croquettes 
are  wanted  for  breakfast,  all  the  work,  except  the  frying, 
may  be  done  the  previous  day. 

FISH  Rechauffe. 

One  pint  of  cold  fish. 

One- half  pint  of  egg  sauce.     (See  "  Sauces  for  Fish.") 

One  quart  of  mashed  potatoes. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Place  one-half  of  the  potato  in  a  baking  dish ;  then 
season  the  fish  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  lay  it  upon 
the  potato,  add  the  sauce  to  the  top  of  the  fish,  and 
spread  the  other  half  of  the  potato  on  top  of  the  mass. 
Cover  the  potato  with  a  thin  layer  of  butter,  and  bake 
for  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  The  sauce  is  very  sim- 
pie. 

SPICED    MACKEREL. 

When  cooking  salt  mackerel,  it  is  well  to  prepare  more 
than  enough  for  immediate  use,  so  that  this  really  fine 
dish  may  be  arranged.  By  some  this  is  called  "  Salma- 


FISH.  I  1  5 

gundi,"  on  account  of  the  mixture  of  spices  used.  Clean 
the  mackerel,  and,  having  soaked  it  over  night  in  cold 
water  with  the  inside  down,  drain,  and  boil  slowly  until 
tender  in  fresh  water.  Then  lift  the  fish  out,  drain  well, 
and  place  it  in  a  rather  deep  dish.  It  is  best  to  cut  the 
fish  into  four  pieces  after  it  is  cooked,  as  it  can  thus  be 
more  easily  managed.  For  a  mackerel  weighing  one 
pound  make  the  following  pickle  and  pour  it  over  the  fish 
boiling  hot.  Allow 

One  pint  of  vinegar. 

Two  bay-leaves. 

One  table-spoonful  of  prepared  spices. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  whole  mustard. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  slice  of  onion. 

Place  the  spices  in  the  vinegar  on  the  fire,  cover  tightly 
and  let  them  steep  slowly  for  an  hour,  to  draw  out  the 
flavors.  Strain,  and  pour  the  liquid  over  the  fish,  cover- 
ing it  while  the  vinegar  steams.  The  fish  will  be  ready  to 
serve  in  a  day.  The  prepared  spices,  which  may  be  pro- 
cured at  any  grocer's,  consist  of  a  mixture  of  cloves', 
allspice,  cinnamon  and  mustard. 

SHELL-FISH. 

OYSTERS. 

The  breeding  season  for  oysters  begins  about  the  first 
of  May,  at  which  time  they  become  soft  and  milky  and  do 
not  return  to  their  firm  condition  again  until  the  weather 
is  cold.  Canned  oysters,  however,  are  good  at  any  time 
and  are  often  a  blessing  to  the  invalid  on  this  account, 


1 1 6  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

since  they  may  always  be  relied  upon  to  furnish  a  tempt- 
ing dish. 

Oysters  are  differently  sold  in  different  places,  some 
dealers  selling  by  measure  only,  while  others  sell  both 
by  measure  and  count.  When  they  are  sold  by  the 
dozen,  they  are  generally  divided  into  several  grades. 
"Counts  "are  the  largest  and  are  suitable  for  frying, 
broiling,  etc. ;  they  are,  of  course,  the  most  expensive 
kind.  "  Selects  "  rank  next  to  "  counts  "  and  in  some 
markets  are  called  "  culls."  "  Straights  "  are  oysters 
taken  as  they  come,  the  large  with  the  small. 

Oysters  are  very  dainty  food  and  require  careful  hand- 
ling.  The  seasoning  used  should  be  of  the  most  delicate 
kind,  and  the  oysters  should  never  be  cooked  after  they 
have  become  plump  and  the  edges  curl.  Too  much  cook- 
ing makes  them  hard  and  indigestible  and  ruins  their 
flavor  entirely. 

OYSTERS,    RAW. 

Raw  oysters  are  served  either  on  the  half-shell,  on 
oyster  plates  or  in  a  block  of  ice.  Allow  to  each  person 
five  or  six  oysters  and  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  also  pass 
thin  slices  of  delicately  buttered  brown  or  graham  bread. 

Little  neck  clams  take  the  place  of  oysters  during  the 
hot  weather  and  are  similarly  served. 

OYSTERS  ON  ICE. 

There  is  a  very  attractive  way  of  serving  raw  oysters. 
Select  a  rectangular  piece  of  clear  ice,  with  smooth,  reg- 
ular surfaces.  With  a  hot  brick  or  flat-iron  melt  a  cavity 
in  the  ice  large  enough  to  hold  the  oysters.  Pour  out  the 
water  from  the  melted  ice,  wash  out  the  cavity  and  dry  it, 


FISH.  1 1 7 

and  put  in  the  oysters,  which  should  be  well  drained  in  a 
colander.  Place  a  thick  napkin  on  a  platter,  set  the  ice 
upon  this,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  parsley  and  sliced 
lemon.  A  bed  of  smilax  or  parsley  is  sometimes  made 
about  and  upon  the  napkin  to  conceal  it,  the  lemon  .being 
placed  on  this  green  bed.  The  ice  is  often  chipped 
roughly  to  resemble  a  rock. 

OYSTER  SOUP. 
This  will  be  found  among  the  soups. 

OYSTERS,    FRIED. 

Drain  the  oysters  well  in  a  colander  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Have  ready  a  pint  and  a-half  of  dried 
bread-crumbs  (see  index  for  method  of  preparing  bread  for 
crumbing),  and  slightly  salt  and  pepper  them.  This  quan- 
tity of  crumbs  will  "  bread  "  fifty  oysters,  which  number 
will  be  ample  for  six  persons.  Thoroughly  beat  three 
eggs.  Place  a  few  crumbs  on  a  plate,  and  roll  the  oys- 
ters in  them,  adding  crumbs  as  needed,  until  all  the  oys- 
ters have  been  treated  to  the  crumbs.  Lay  the  oysters  as 
they  are  crumbed  on  a  baking  board  that  has  been 
sprinkled  with  crumbs.  Dip  the  oysters  into  the  beaten 
egg,  one  at  a  time,  and  roll  each,  as  soon  as  dipped,  in 
the  bread-crumbs  again.  Do  not  pile  them  one  upon 
another ;  and  let  them  stand  at  least  an  hour  before  fry- 
ing, if  you  would  have  them  in  perfection.  Place  a  layer 
of  oysters  in  a  frying-basket  and  plunge  them  into 
boiling  fat  that  is  so  hot  that  blue  smoke  rises  from  the 
center.  Cook  about  a  minute  and  a-half,  and  drain  on 
soft  brown  paper.  Oysters  fried  in  this  manner  are 
brown,  tender,  crisp  and  plump. 


I  1 8  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

OYSTERS,    SAUTEED. 

Drain  the  oysters  well,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  roll  them  in  fine  bread  or  cracker  crumbs.  Place 
clear  fat  in  a  frying-pan  (butter  may  be  used  if  the  differ- 
ence in  cost  is  not  an  object),  and  when  it  becomes  very 
hot  drop  in  enough  oysters  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  When  one  side  is  browned,  turn  the  oysters  care- 
fully to  brown  the  other  side.  The  iron  pancake  griddle 
is  often  used  for  this  purpose,  as  in  this  way  many  oysters 
may  be  cooked  at  one  time.  Serve  very  hot  on  toast. 

OYSTERS    FRICASSEED 

Twenty-five  large  oysters. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  and  drain.  Place 
the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  has  melted,  add 
the  flour,  rubbing  to  a  smooth  paste.  Now  pour  in  the 
milk,  and  stir  it  until  it  boils  ;  then  add  the  oysters,  half  a 
cupful  of  the  liquor  and  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  stir 
again  until  the  liquid  boils.  At  this  point  remove  the 
pan  from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  also 
the  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

OYSTERS    ON    TOAST. 

One  pint  of  oysters. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


FISH.  1 19 

Heat  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  and  when  boiling, 
skim  them ;  add  the  butter  and  flour  rubbed  to  a  crearn, 
and  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  then  let  the  whole 
cook  about  two  minutes,  to  make  certain  the  flour  is 
done.  Have  ready  some  nicely  toasted  bread ;  and  if 
the  oysters  do  not  seem  rich  in  liquor,  wet  the  edges  of  the 
toast  carefully  with  a  little  salted  water,  pouring  it  on 
with  a  tea-spoon  so  as  not  to  add  too  much  ;  then  turn 
the  oysters  over  the  toast.  Should  there  be  plenty  of 
liquor  to  moisten  the  toast  properly,  the  water,  of  course, 
need  not  be  used.  This  is  a  particularly  delicate  and 
appetizing  dish  for  an  invalid  or  a  convalescent.  Many 
prefer  the  liquor  without  thickening,  and  the  flour  is  then 
omitted,  with  quite  as  good  results. 

OYSTERS   BAKED    IN    THE    SHELLS. 

Use  only  large  oysters  for  this  purpose.  Wash  the 
shells  and  scrub  them  with  a  brush  ;  then  place  them  in  a 
baking  pan,  with  the  round  sides  down  to  hold  the  juice, 
and  bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  shells  open.  Remove 
the  upper  shells,  season  each  oyster  (which  should  be 
slightly  loosened  from  the  lower  shell)  with  butter,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve  at  once  in  the  shells.  Oysters 
baked  in  this  way  are  sometimes  removed  from  the  shells 
and  served  in  a  hot  dish.  There  is  no  way  of  cooking  the 
oyster  in  which  the  natural  flavor  is  so  fully  developed. 

Another  method  of  baking  oysters  in  the  shell  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Open  the  oysters,  and  season  them  highly  with 
butter,  salt  and  pepper  and  a  drop  of  Worcestershire 
sauce  or  a  little  catsup,  and  bake  a  few  minutes  in  a  very 
hot  oven.  Gentlemen  who  are  fond  of  condiments  gen- 
erally prefer  oysters  roasted  in  this  way. 


1 20  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

OYSTERS,    BROILED. 

Use  the  oyster-broiler  for  this  work.  (See  "  Kitchen 
Utensils.")  Only  the  largest  oysters  are  suitable  for  broil- 
ing. Drain  the  oysters,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip 
them  one  by  one  in  melted  butter,  and  roll  them  in  flour. 
Then  lay  them  on  the  broiler,  and  cook  over  clear 
coals  until  they  turn  a  delicate  brown.  These  are  served 
on  slices  of  thin  toast.  Fine  cracker-crumbs  may  be  used 
instead  of  flour,  if  preferred. 

OYSTERS,    SCALLOPED. 

Drain  the  oysters,  and  place  a  generous  layer  of  them 
in  a  baking  dish,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
dots  of  butter,  half  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  being 
none  too  much.  Spread  a  thick  layer  of  cracker-crumbs 
over  the  oysters,  and  repeat  the  layers  of  oysters,  season- 
ing and  crumbs  until  all  the  oysters  have  been  used, 
placing  a  layer  of  cracker-crumbs  at  the  top  and  sprink- 
ling them  lightly  with  salt,  pepper  and  dots  of  butter. 
Add  an  equal  quantity  of  milk  to  the  oyster  liquor — that 
is,  as  much  milk  as  liquor — mix  well  together,  and  pour 
'the  liquid  over  the  oysters,  etc.,  helping  it  through  to  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  at  the  sides,  but  disturbing  the  oys- 
ters as  little  as  possible.  Bake  twenty  minutes,  not  too 
rapidly,  and  serve  in  the  baking-dish.  There  should  be 
at  least  a  tea-cupful  of  the  liquid  to  a  quart  baking-dish- 
ful of  oysters  ;  and  if  there  is  not  half  a  tea-cupful  of  the 
liquor,  add  enough  more  milk  to  make  up  the  difference. 
Oysters  are  often  scalloped  in  their  shells,  using  three 
oysters  to  each  shell ;  or  individual  silver  scallop  dishes 
are  used,  which  is  the  daintiest  way  of  serving. 


FISH.  121 

OYSTER    CHOWDER. 

One  quart  of  oysters. 

Six  potatoes. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  milk. 

Three  pilot  or  sea  biscuits. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  onion. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Drain  the  oysters,  and  run  each  through  the  fingers  to 
remove  any  particles  of  shell.  Strain  the  liquor  through 
a  fine  wire  sieve.  Thinly  slice  the  potatoes  and  onion, 
and  boil  them  very  gently  in  the  oyster  liquor  until  tender. 
Wet  the  flour  in  a  little  of  the  milk,  and  stir  it  into  the 
scalding  milk  (which  should  have  been  heated  by  itself  in 
a  double  boiler),  adding  also  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper. 
Cook  about  a  minute,  put  in  the  oysters,  and  boil  two 
minutes.  Then  turn  into  the  milk  the  potatoes  and 
onion,  and  the  liquor  in  which  they  have  been  boiled. 
Place  the  crackers  or  sea  biscuits  in  the  tureen,  pour  the 
chowder  over  them,  and  serve  at  once. 

CLAMS. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  this  shell-fish,  the  "  long  " 
clam,  which  has  a  thin  shell,  and  the  "  round  "  clam,  the 
shell  of  which  is  thick.  "  Little-neck  "  clams  are  the  tiny, 
"  round  "  variety.  "  Long  "  clams  are  boiled  or  baked  in 
the  oven,  and  the  tough  mouth  end  is  not  eaten.  They 
also  make  very  delicate  fritters. 

CLAM    FRITTERS. 

Wash  the  clams  well,  using  a  thin,  narrow  brush   to 


122  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

bring  out  all  the  sand ;  and  place  them  in  the  oven  in  a 
pan.  When  the  shells  open,  take  out  the  meat,  and 
strain  the  liquor  that  will  have  accumulated  in  the  pan, 
keeping  it  separate.  To  a  pint  of  meat  allow 

Three  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-fourth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Two  cupfuls  of  liquor,  or  add  milk  to  make  that  amount. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

This  is  sufficient  for  a  large  quantity  of  fritters.  They 
may  be  fried  by  dropping  the  mixture,  a  spoonful  at  a 
time,  in  hot  fat,  like  fried  cakes  ;  or  they  may  be  cooked 
very  satisfactorily  on  a  pan-cake  griddle.  The  former 
way,  however,  is  generally  preferred. 

CLAMS,    BAKED     IN    THE   OVEN. 

Round  clams  are  more  often  baked  than  the  long 
variety,  but  the  thin-shelled  clam  is  by  no  means  a  poor 
dish  when  dressed  in  this  way.  When  round  clams  are 
to  be  baked,  those  of  medium-size  are  best,  although  the 
small  ones  are  still  very  luscious  cooked  in  this  way. 
They  should  be  scrubbed  well  and  placed  in  a  baking 
pan,  and  when  the  shells  open  they  have  cooked  suffi- 
ciently. Serve  on  a  platter  just  as  they  come  from  the 
oven,  covering  with  a  napkin  to  keep  them  hot 

CLAM    CHOWDER. 

Many  so-called  chowders  are  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  soup  with  potatoes  and  onion  in  it.  This  chowder 
is  of  quite  another  kind,  being  served  on  a  platter  in- 


FISH.  123 

stead  of  in  a  soup  tureen,  as  many  "  chowders "  are 
nowadays;  and  it  is  eaten  with  a  fork.  Large,  round 
clams  are  the  kind  used  for  this  purpose,  and  they  should 
be  opened  and  chopped  rather  finely.  Put  into  the  bot- 
tom of  a  tin  pail  small  pieces  of  salt  pork,  and  then  add  a 
layer  of  chopped  clams.  Place  on  this  a  layer  of  thinly 
sliced  raw  potatoes,  and  next  a  layer  of  such  vegetables 
as  may  be  liked — celery,  tomatoes,  sliced  onion,  parsley, 
etc.,  with  a  few  slices  of  lemon  and  pepper  sprinkled 
over  all.  Then  add  a  layer  of  broken  Boston  crackers  or 
pilot  biscuit.  Begin  again  with  the  pork,  and  follow  it  up 
with  clams,  potatoes,  seasoning  and  crackers,  until  all  the 
clams  prepared  are  utilized.  Pour  the  clam  juice  over 
all,  adding  a  little  water  to  moisten  the  whole  chowder. 
Place  the  cover  on  the  pail,  put  the  pail  in  a  kettle  of 
boiling  water,  and  boil  three  hours.  If  only  a  small 
quantity  of  chowder  is  desired,  the  double  boiler  may  be 
used  for  the  cooking.  If  the  potatoes  are  not  sufficiently 
cooked  by  this  time,  the  chowder  may  be  turned  into  a 
kettle  to  finish,  but  it  must  be  stirred  constantly  to  keep 
it  from  burning.  It  is  seldom  necessary,  however,  to 
turn  it  out.  Remove  the  pail  at  the  end  of  the  first  hour 
to  see  if  there  is  moisture  enough  to  cook  all  well,  and 
add  a  little  water  if  necessary.  The  chowder  need  not 
be  stirred  at  all  while  cooking,  unless  it  has  to  be  turned 
into  a  kettle.  Sometimes  one  is  unfortunate  in  selecting 
clams,  for  if  they  are  too  salt  the  potatoes  will  not  cook 
tender.  This  seldom  occurs,  however. 

CLAMS,    ROASTED. 

Round  clams  are  cooked  in  this  way,  by  placing  them 
directly  upon  the  coals  ;  when  the  shells  open,  the  clams 


1 24  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

are  cooked  enough.  Take  them  from  the  coals  with  a 
pair  of  tongs,  and  send  to  the  table  the  same  as  baked 
clams.  Season  when  eating  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a  taste  of  Worcestershire  sauce. 

CLAM  SOUP. 

This  will  be  found  among  the  soups. 
LOBSTERS. 

If  possible,  always  boil  lobsters  at  home.  If  a  lobster 
is  cooked  when  purchased,  see  that  the  tail  is  stiff  and 
elastic,  so  that  when  it  is  bent  out  it  springs  quickly  back  ; 
otherwise  the  lobster  was  dead  when  boiled.  Choose  the 
small  lobster  that  is  heavy  in  proportion  to  its  size. 
Those  with  hard,  solid  shells  streaked  with  black  will  be 
found  full  of  meat.  The  thin-shelled  lobster  is  watery. 
The  male  lobster  is  preferred  for  eating,  and  the  female 
for  sauces  and  soups.  The  female  has  a  broad  tail  and 
not  so  many  claws  as  the  male.  Canned  lobster  is  very 
convenient  in  case  of  emergency  for  making  salad. 

TO    BOIL    A    LOBSTER.       - 

Fill  a  kettle  nearly  full  of  boiling  water,  and  add  a  large 
spoonful  of  salt.  Wind  a  string  around  the  lobster  to 
secure  the  claws  to  the  body,  and  plunge  it  head  first 
into  the  kettle.  A  medium-sized  lobster  should  boil  in 
half  an  hour;  a  large  one  in  forty-five  minutes.  Too 
much  cooking  toughens  the  meat. 

TO    OPEN    A    LOBSTER. 

Let  the  lobster  cool  after  boiling,  and  wipe  the  shell 
perfectly  dry.  Break  off  all  the  claws,  and  separate  the 


FISH.  I  2  $ 

tail  from  the  body  and  the  -body  from  its  shell,  leaving 
the  stomach  or  "  lady,"  as  it  is  called,  in  the  shell.  The 
"  lady "  is  found  directly  under  the  head.  Save  the 
liver,  which  may  be  known  by  its  greenish  color,  and 
also  the  coral,  which  is  used  in  sauces  and  salad. 
Split  the  body  through  the  center,  and  pick  the  meat  from 
the  cells,  cutting  the  under  side  of  the  tail  shell  open 
also,  and  taking  out  the  meat  in  one  solid  piece.  Split 
this  piece  open,  and  there  will  be  uncovered  a  little  vein 
running  its  entire  length.  This  is  the  intestinal  canal 
and  must  be  removed.  It  is  not  always  the  same  color, 
being  black,  red  or  even  white  ;  but  it  is  not  fit  to  eat. 
Break  off  all  the  gills  before  picking  the  meat  from  the 
joints,  as  they  are  liable  to  drop  off  with  the  meat  and 
are  too  woolly  to  be  palatable.  The  gills,  stomach  and 
intestines  are  the  parts  not  eaten.  When  the  shells  of 
the  large  claws  are  thin,  cut  off  a  strip  down  the  sharp 
edge,  and  remove  the  meat  whole  ;  or  the  shell  may  be 
broken,  when  too  thick  to  be  cut,  by  hammering  it  on  the 
edge.  The  claws  should  never  be  pounded  in  the  middle, 
as  the  meat  is  thus  crushed  and  often  filled  with  pieces  of 
shell. 

TO  SERVE  LOBSTER  PLAIN. 

Arrange  the  meat  in  the  center  of  a  dish,  and  garnish 
with  the  small  claws,  sprigs  of  parsley  or  hard-boiled 
eggs  cut  into  quarters.  Each  person  at  table  seasons  to 
suit  with  pepper,  salt  and  vinegar  or  oil. 

LOBSTER    CHOPS. 

These    are    at   present  a  very  fashionable  dish,  being 


126  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

served  at  teas,  luncheons  and  evening  parties.     They  are 
very  dainty. 

Two  cupfuls  of  boiled  lobster. 
Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 
One  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One-eighth  of  a  nutmeg. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Put  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  it  bubbles,  stir  in 
the  flour.  Cook  this  paste,  slowly  stirring  all  the  time; 
then  pour  in  the  cream,  and  add  the  lobster,  cut  into 
small  dice.  Stir 'until  scalding  hot,  take  from  the  fire, 
and  when  slightly  cooled,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  the  grated  nutmeg,  and  the  salt  and  pepper. 
Return  to  the  fire  and  cook  two  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time.  Butter  a  platter,  and  on  it  spread  the  mixture 
half  an  inch  deep.  When  cold,  form  in  the  shape  of 
chops,  pointed  at  one  end ;  roll  the  chops  in  beaten  egg, 
then  in  bread  or  cracker-crumbs,  place  them  in  the  frying 
basket  and  plunge  them  in  boiling-hot  fat  until  of  a 
nice  brown  color.  The  frying  should  not  take  longer 
than  three  minutes.  Drain  well,  and  stick  the  end  of  a 
small  claw  in  each  chop  to  represent  the  bone.  Serve  on 
a  napkin,  placing  the  chops  so  they  overlap  each  other, 
and  garnish  with  parsley. 

LOBSTER    FARCI.    (STUFFED.) 

Two  cupfuls  of  lobster  meat. 
Three  hard-boiled  eggs  (yolks). 
One-half  pint  of  milk. 
One-fourth  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 


FISH.  127 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Cut  the  lobster  into  small  pieces.  Two  lobsters  will  be 
required  for  this  quantity.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  the 
double  boiler,  and  when  hot,  stir  into  it  the  butter  and 
flour,  rubbed  well  together.  Stir  until  smooth,  and  cook 
three  minutes  ;  then  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
crumbs,  parsley,  lobster,  salt  and  pepper,  and  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  mashed  very  fine.  Mix  all  well  together.  In 
opening  the  lobster  for  the  stuffing,  be  careful  not  to  break 
the  body  or  tail  shells.  Wash  them  and  wipe  dry,  and 
with  a  pair  of  scissors  cut  off  the  under  part  of  the  tail 
shells,  using  the  tails  of  both  lobsters.  Join  the  large 
ends  of  the  tail  shells  to  the  body  shell,  with  the  ends  of 
the  tails  out,  thus  forming  a  boat-shaped  shell.  Put  the 
stuffing  into  this  boat,  brush  over  the  top  with  beaten  egg, 
sprinkle  lightly  with  bread-crumbs,  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 

STEWED  LOBSTER. 

Cut  the  meat  fine  and  put  it  in  a  small  frying-pan  with 
milk  enough  to  nearly  cover  it ;  when  the  milk  boils, 
thicken  to  a  cream  with  a  little  corn  starch  wet  with  milk, 
seasoning  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter.  Serve  on  toasted 
bread  laid  on  a  hot  platter. 

DEVILED    LOBSTER. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  deviled  crab,  using  two  cup. 
fuls  of  finely  chopped  lobster  where  twelve  crabs  are  used 


128  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK'. 

in    the    recipe.     This    will    require    two    small    lobsters. 
Serve  in  the  lobster  shells. 

CRABS. 

These  shell-fish  are  found  near  the  coast  of  the  South- 
ern and  Middle  states,  and  in  Maryland  special  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  their  propagation.  They  are  generally 
expensive  and  are  sold  alive  or  boiled.  As  they  are 
easily  boiled,  it  is  better  not  to  trust  to  the  fishmonger's 
boiling.  Like  lobsters  they  should  be  heavy  for  their 
size. 

SOFT-SHELL    CRABS. 

Crabs,  as  well  as  lobsters,  shed  their  shells  annually. 
When  crabs  are  minus  their  shells  they  are  known  as 
soft-shell  crabs  and  are  most  highly  esteemed  by  epi- 
cures. In  three  days  after  the  old  shell  is  lost  the  new 
one  begins  to  harden,  when  the  crab  ceases  to  be  the 
choice  tid-bit  he  was.  This  is  the  reason  the  supply  of 
soft-shell  crabs  is  always  short.  They  are,  of  course, 
always  sold  alive. 

TO  CLEAN  SOFT-SHELL  CRABS. 

To  prepare  these  crabs  for  cooking  will  not  be  difficult, 
if  the  following  directions  are  carefully  followed.  The 
back  of  the  crab  is  of  a  greenish  color  and  is  like  thin, 
stiff  rubber,  and  at  each  end  it  tapers  to  a  point.  Take 
one  of  these  points  between  the  thumb  and  fore-finger  of 
the  left  hand,  and,  keeping  the  crab  on  its  face  all  the 
time,  press  the  back  with  the  second  finger,  bending  the 
shell  back  about  half-way.  There  will  thus  be  exposed 
a  spongy  substance  which  must  be  scraped  or,  if  neces- 


FISH.  129 

sary,  cut  away.  Repeat  the  operation  at  the  other  point 
of  the  back.  The  "  apron,"  which  is  a  small,  loose  sort 
of  tail,  running  to  a  point  in  the  middle  of  the  under  shell 
and  closely  lapping  it,  should  be  pulled  off.  Wash  the 
crabs  in  cold  water,  and  drain  well,  wiping  them  gently 
with  a  cloth.  They  are  then  ready  for  cooking. 

FRIED    SOFT-SHELL    CRABS. 

Dip  the  crabs  in  beaten  egg  that  has  been  seasoned 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  roll  them  in  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs,  also  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Fry  in  a  frying-pan  in  hot  butter,  turning  when  necessary. 
Place  a  cover  over  the  pan  when  frying.  The  crabs 
should  fry  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  at  least,  and  will  be 
of  a  deep-red  shade  when  done.  Drain  a  moment  on  soft 
brown  paper,  and  serve  hot. 

BAKED    SOFT-SHELL   CRABS. 

Season  the  crabs  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them  in 
melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  thickly  with  dry  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs.  Put  them  in  a  baking-pan,  and  bake  in 
a  very  hot  oven  for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  When  tender, 
remove  to  a  platter,  place  the  pan  they  were  baked  in  on 
top  of  the  range,  and  add  a  little  water  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  wet  to  a  -smooth  paste.  When  the  gravy 
has  boiled  a  minute,  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and 
pour  it  around  the  crabs.  Strain  the  gravy,  if  at  all 
lumpy.  This  is  a  very  delicious  way  of  cooking  these 
delicate  shell-fish. 

HARD-SHELL    CRABS. 

Plunge  the  crabs  into  boiling  water,  and  cook  fifteen 


I  30  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

minutes ;  then  remove  the  outside  shells  and  the  shaggy 
substance.  Rinse  in  hot  water,  and  arrange  on  a  platter. 
They  are  to  be  eaten  from  the  shell. 

DEVILED    CRAB. 

This  has  become  a  very  fashionable  dish.  It  is  served 
at  almost  all  teas,  receptions  and  parties.  Only  hard- 
shell crabs  are  used  for  this  dish. 

Twelve  heavy  crabs. 

One-half  pint  of  cream. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One-quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  mustard. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  grated  bread-crumbs. 

One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Boil  the  crabs  for  thirty  minutes.  Drain-  them,  break 
off  the  claws  and  separate  the  shells,  removing  the 
spongy  fingers  and  the  stomach,  which  is  found  under  the 
head.  Pick  out  all  the  meat,  and  wash  and  wipe  the 
shells.  Heat  the  cream  in  a  small  saucepan  ;  thoroughly 
mix  the  flour  and  mustard  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
butter,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  cream.  Boil 
two  minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  crab 
meat  and  seasoning.  Mix  well,  and  put  the  mixture  in 
the  crab-shells.  Sprinkle  with  the  crumbs,  and  place  the 
remainder  of  the  butter,  cut  in  small  pieces,  on  top  of  the 
crumbs.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  crumbs  are  brown, 
first  placing  the  grate  of  the  oven  under  the  pan,  so  the 


FISH.  1 3 1 

heat  will  not  be  too  great  at  the  bottom.     Serve  on  a  bed 
of  parsley,  arranging  the  claws  on  it. 

CRAW  FISH. 

These  resemble  the  lobster  and  are  found  in  most  of 
our  brooks  and  rivers.  They  are  boiled  and  served  the 
same  as  crabs,  or  used  as  a  garnish  for  boiled  fish. 

SHRIMPS. 

Shrimps  belong  to  the  lobster  species,  being  the  very 
smallest  of  that  ilk.  They  are  of  two  kinds,  the  gulf 
shrimps  or  prawns  being  the  larger.  Shrimps  are  sold  by 
the  quart,  and  in  some  places  are  vended  already  cooked. 
They  are  served  the  same  as  crabs,  in  salads  and  sauces, 
and  are  also  used  as  a  garnish. 

SCALLOPS. 

These  shell-fish  have  round,  deeply  grooved  shells. 
The  muscle  which  unites  the  shells  is  the  only  part  used 
for  food.  Scallops  have  a  sweet  flavor  and  are  in  season 
during  the  fall  and  winter.  They  are  stewed  or  fried,  the 
latter  way  being  much  the  more  satisfactory. 

FRIED    SCALLOPS. 

Wash  the  scallops,  drain  them  and  dry  thoroughly. 
Season  fine  cracker-crumbs  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip 
the  scallops  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  the  crumbs,  and 
fry  in  hot  fat.  Or  they  may  be  simply  seasoned  and 
rolled  in  flour  and  then  fried. 

MUSSELS. 

They  are  fried  like  oysters  or  are  stewed.  For  stewing, 
open  the  mussels,  and  to  a  quart  of  meat  allow — 


1 32  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Two  tables-poonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Six  whole  pepper-corns. 
One-half  cupful  of  cream. 
Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Stew  the  mussels  five  minutes  in  their  own  liquor,  and 
then  add  the  flour  rubbed  well  into  the  butter,  and  the 
pepper-corns.  Stew  ten  minutes,  and  pour  in  the  heated 
cream.  Set  back  on  the  range,  and  stir  in  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  which  will  have  been  thinned  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  water  or  milk.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve. 

TERRAPIN. 

This  is  served  at  many  fashionable  dinners  and  late 
suppers.  Terrapins  belong  to  the  turtle  family  and  are 
found  from  Rhode  Island  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  They 
vary  considerably  in  size  and  quality  in  different  locali- 
ties. The  finest  in  winter  are  very  expensive,  sometimes 
costing  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  dollars  a  dozen  in  the 
Northern  markets,  although  they  are  often  to  be  had  for 
one-fourth  that  cost.  In  the  South  they  are  comparatively 
cheap  and  are  larger  than  those  found  in  the  North. 
There  are  two  ways  of  killing  terrapin.  In  the  North,  if 
the  terrapin  is  small,  it  is  boiled  the  same  as  a  lobster; 
but  in  the  South  the  head  is  cut  off  and  the  terrapin 
placed  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  to  draw  out  the 
blood,  after  which  it  is  boiled.  The  time  of  boiling 
varies  with  the  age  of  the  terrapin.  If  young,  it  will 
cook  in  half  an  hour,  but  old  ones  require  to  boil  fully 
two  hours  before  they  are  tender. 


FISH.  133 

COOKING    AND    CLEANING    TERRAPIN. 

If  the  large  Southern  variety  is  used,  cut  off  the  head 
and  let  the  terrapin  lie  in  cold  water  half  an  hour,  then 
drop  it  into  boiling  water  and  cook  for  ten  minutes. 
Pour  off  the  water,  and  cover  the  terrapin  with  cold  water, 
letting  it  stand  until  cool  enough  to  handle  easily ;  then 
take  it  up,  and  with  a  towel  rub  the  nails  and  black  skin 
from  the  legs.  Wash  the  terrapin  carefully,  place  it  in  a 
stew-pan  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  cook 
until  the  flesh  is  tender,  which  will  be  when  the  joints  of 
the  legs  can  be  broken  with  a  slight  pressure,  and  the 
shell  will  separate  easily.  Remove  from  the  water,  and 
after  it  has  cooled  a  little,  place  the  terrapin  on  its  back, 
with  the  head  away  from  you,  and  loosen  and  remove  the 
under  shell.  The  liver,  gall,  bladder  and  sand-bag  will 
be  found  near  the  head  end,  the  gall  being  attached  to 
the  left  side  of  the  liver.  Take  out  the  gall  as  you 
would  that  of  a  chicken,  being  very  careful  not  to  break 
it.  If  such  an  accident  occur,  the  entire  terrapin  will  be 
ruined,  so  there  should  be  extra  care  at  this  point  of  the 
work.  All  that  remains  is  used  for  food.  Take  out  the 
eggs,  if  there  are  any,  remove  the  slight  membrane  that 
is  around  them,  and  drop  them  into  cold  water.  Cut  all 
the  meat  very  fine  (the  intestines  finer  than  any  part), 
and  save  any  water  that  may  collect  in  the  shells.  The 
terrapin  is  now  ready  to  use  in  a  stew  or  in  other 
ways.  It  is  most  commonly  served  stewed. 

STEWED   TERRAPIN, 

Two  terrapins. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  pint  of  cream. 


1 34  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

One-half  pint  of  sherry  or  Maderia. 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Six  eggs  (yolks). 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-fifth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-tenth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  mace. 

One-tenth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  allspice. 

One-half  of  a  lemon. 

Put  the  finely  cut  terrapin  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  water 
and  butter,  the  juices  that  have  collected  in  the  shells 
and  the  salt,  pepper  and  spices,  and  let  all  simmer 
gently  for  fifteen  minutes.  Boil  the  six  eggs  fifteen 
minutes,  remove  the  yolks,  mash  them  very  fine,  and 
gradually  mix  the  cream  with  them.  Add  this  mixture  to 
the  stew,  and  also  the  sherry,  the  eggs  of  the  terrapin, 
and  the  lemon  thinly  sliced.  Let  the  stew  stand  where  it 
will  become  well  heated,  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  or  the 
cream  will  break.  Serve  while  hot. 

Silver-plated  saucepans  holding  half  a  pint  each  are 
used  for  serving  this  rare  dish.  One  kind  is  in  the  shape 
of  a  terrapin,  the  other  round,  with  a  straight  handle 
and  a  tightly  fitting  cover. 

SAUCES  FOR  FISH. 

The  French  undoubtedly  understand  the  making  of 
sauces  better  than  any  other  nation.  The  English  make 
a  drawn-butter  sauce  and  use  it  as  a  foundation  for  many 
kinds.  By  the  addition  of  capers,  shrimps,  chopped 
pickle,  lobster,  oysters,  etc.,  one  has  caper,  shrimp,  lobster 
and  the  other  kinds  of  sauces.  The  drawn-butter  sauce 
is  simple,  yet  is  often  improperly  made,  being  insipid  in 
taste  and  lumpy  and  unappetizing  in  appearance  through 
insufficient  cooking.  The  French  white  sauce  differs 


FISH.  135 

materially  from  that  of  the  English,  since  it  is  made  with 
strong  white  stock  prepared  from  veal  or  chicken,  or  both, 
and  with  some  vegetables  for  a  basis.  One  shrinks  from 
using  a  receipt  for  sauce  that  requires  stock  ;  and  many 
simple  receipts  are  here  given  which  do  not  call  for  that 
as  an  ingredient. 

In  thickening  sauces,  it  should  be  remembered  that 
butter  and  flour  should  be  well  cooked  together  before 
the  liquid  is  added,  to  prevent  the  flour  from  tasting 
uncooked  ;  and  the  butter  should  be  very  hot  before  the 
flour  is  added  to  it.  In  butter  sauces,  however,  only 
enough  butter  should  be  used  at  first  to  cook  the  flour, 
the  remainder  being  cut  in  pieces  and  added  after  the 
sauce  is  taken  from  the  fire.  In  this  way  the  flavor  is 
preserved. 

A  mistake  that  is  frequently  made  in  the  preparation 
of  any  sauce  that  is  thickened  with  butter  and  flour 
cooked  together,  is  that  the  liquid  is  added  to  the  thick- 
ening before  the  flour  and  butter  have  at  all  cooled. 
The  stew-pan  in  which  the  butter  and  flour  are  cooked 
should  be  drawn  to  a  cool  part  of  the  range  and  the 
mixture  stirred  until  partially  cooled  before  putting  in 
the  liquid,  which  should  be  cold  and  be  added  gradually. 
The  length  of  time  for  a  sauce  to  cook  varies.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  if  the  sauce  is  boiled  longer  than 
ten  minutes,  the  butter  will  separate  and  come  to  the  top, 
where  it  can  be  skimmed  off  ;  this  leaves  a  clear  sauce. 
If  cooked  less  than  this  time  the  butter  does  not  sepa- 
rate. Long  cooking  makes  the  sauce  greasy,  unless  it 
be  continued  long  enough  to  make  the  separation  of  oil 
and  ingredients  complete.  In  common  sauces  the  quick 
method  is  generally  preferred,  and  if  by  mistake  the 


136  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

sauce  becomes  oily,  a  little  cold  water  may  be  added  and 
the  sauce  stirred  until  it  begins  to  boil,  when  it  will  be 
found  perfectly  smooth  and  satisfactory. 

DRAWN-BUTTER    SAUCE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter  (scant). 
One  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Put  half  the  butter  into  the  stew-pan,  and  when  it 
bubbles,  sprinkle  in  the  flour,  and  stir  well  for  two 
minutes.  Draw  back  on  the  range,  and  when  slightly 
cooled  add  the  boiling  water,  a  little  at  a  time,  stirring  all 
the  time  until  the  liquid  is  thick  and  smooth.  Let  the 
sauce  boil  up  once,  stirring  it  constantly ;  then  put  back 
again,  and  add  the  remainder  of  the  butter,  cut  in  pieces, 
and  also  the  salt  and  pepper.  When  carefully  made  this 
sauce  will  be  like  cream ;  but  if  it  is  not  entirely  smooth, 
strain  it  before  using.  Drawn-butter  sauce  is  sometimes 
preferred  slightly  acid,  in  which  case  a  few  drops  of 
strong  vinegar  or  of  lemon  juice  are  added  just  before 
serving. 

BROWN    SAUCE. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  carrot. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One  pint  of  stock  or  water. 

One  clove. 

One  .tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 


FISH.  137 

Cook  the  vegetables  in  the  butter  very  slowly  for  half 
an  hour;  then  place  them  on  a  hot  part  of  the  range 
and  cook  until  slightly  browned,  stirring  all  the  time 
the  browning  is  going  on.  Add  the  flour,  and  stir  until 
that  also  is  brown.  Draw  the  pan  back,  and  when  its 
contents  are  slightly  cooled,  add  the  stock  and  stir  until 
the  whole  is  well  mixed,  adding  the  clove,  salt  and 
pepper.  Set  the  pan  back  where  the  sauce  will  gently 
simmer  for  twenty  minutes.  Strain,  skim  off  the  fat  that 
comes  to  the  top,  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  serve.  Pork 
"drippings,"  or  fat  that  is  clear  may  take  the  place  of 
butter,  with  good  results,  two  table-spoonfuls  being  used 
instead  of  three. 

WHITE   SAUCE. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  celery. 
One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  carrot. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  pint  of  stock. 
One-half  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Simmer  the  vegetables  in  the  butter  very  gently  for  ten 
minutes,  being  care-ful  not  to  brown  them.  Then  add  the 
flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Cool  slightly, 
and  add  the  stock.  When  all  is  smooth,  add  the  salt  and 
pepper,  and  boil  for  five  minutes  ;  then  put  in  the  cream. 
Let  the  sauce  boil  up  once,  and  strain.  This  is  a  fine 
sauce  in  which  to  heat  cold  fish. 

CREAM    SAUCE. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter: 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 


138  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  pint  of  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Place  the  butter  in  a  small  stew-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot, 
add  the  flour.  Stir  well  until  smooth  and  frothy.  Draw 
the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  milk.  Place  it  again 
on  the  hot  part  of  the  range,  and  when  the  sauce  boils, 
add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer  for  three  minutes, 
add  the  parsley,  and  serve.  A  few  drops  of  onion  juice 
will  improve  the  flavor,  if  onion  is  liked. 

TOMATO    SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  tomato. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  small  onion. 

One  bay-leaf. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  blade  of  mace. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Place  the  tomato,  onion,  bay-leaf,  parsley  and  mace  in 
a  stew-pan  together,  and  simmer  gently  for  ten  minutes ; 
then  strain  through  a  wire  sieve,  pulping  through  all  the 
tomato  but  the  skin  and  seeds.  Rinse  out  the  stew-pan, 
and  when  it  is  dry  put  in  the  butter.  As  soon  as  the  but- 
ter is  hot,  add  the  flour,  and  cook  two  minutes.  Add  to 
this  the  strained  tomato,  pouring  it  in  gradually.  When 
all  is  well  mixed,  place  the  sauce  on  a  hot  part  of  the 
range  ;  boil  up  once,  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

HOLLANDAISE   SAUCE. 

This  is  one  of  the  best  sauces  for  fish. 


FISH.  1 39 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
One-half  lemon  (juice  only). 
One-quarter  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 
Three  eggs  (yolks  only). 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  with  a  silver  spoon,  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat  well ;  then  add 
the  lemon  juice,  salt  and  pepper.  About  five  minutes 
before  serving,  add  the  boiling  water,  a  little  at  a  time, 
stirring  well.  Place  the  bowl  in  a  sauce-pan  of  boiling 
water,  and  stir  rapidly  until  the  sauce  thickens  like  boiled 
custard. 

SAUCE  TARTARE    (A  COLD  SAUCE). 

One-half  pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing.     (See  "  Salads.") 

Three  olives. 

One  cucumber  pickle. 

One  table-spoonful  of  parsley. 

Chop  the  olives,  pickle  and  parsley  very  fine,  and  add 
them  to  the  dressing.  This  sauce  will  keep  a  long  time. 

MAITRE      d'HOTEL      SAUCE. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
-   Three-quarter  cupful  of  butter. 
One  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Prepare  the  same  as  drawn-butter  sauce  (see  receipt), 
and  when  finished  add  the  lemon  juice  and  chopped 
parsley.  Let  it  cool  slightly,  and  add  the  beaten  yolks  of 
the  eggs.  Return  to  the  range,  and  when  well  heated, 
but  not  to  the  boiling  point,  it  is  ready  to  use. 


140  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BECHAMEL    SAUCE. 

One-half  pint  of  veal  stock. 
One-half  pint  of  cream. 
Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter,  and  when  bubbling,  stir  in  the  flour ; 
mix  until  smooth,  taking  care  it  does  not  brown.  Add 
the  stock  and  cream  gradually,  and  stir  until  the  liquid 
boils.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  salt  and  pepper 
and  the  well  beaten  yolks.  Let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place 
on  the  range  two  minutes,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  after  the 
eggs  are  added. 

EGG  SAUCE. 

Make  a  cream  sauce  (see  receipt),  and  add  the  whites 
of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopping  them  very  fine  ;  then 
press  the  yolks  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  add  them  also. 
The  wire  potato-masher  (see  "  Kitchen  Utensils  ")  is  just 
the  thing  to  use  for  this  purpose. 

OYSTER   SAUCE   (FOR    BOILED    FISH). 

One  pint  of  small  oysters. 
One-third  cupful  of  butter. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  oysters  in  their  own  liquor  to  boiling  point. 
Remove  them  from  the  fire  after  they  have  boiled  half  a 
minute,  skim  them,  and  drain  off  the  liquor  into  another 
stew-pan.  Rub  the  butter  and  the  flour  to  a  cream.  Add 


FISH.  I4I 

the  milk  to  the  oyster  liquor,  and  when  heated  to  boiling 
point,  stir  in  the  creamed  butter  and  flour.  Let  the 
liquid  boil  up  once,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the 
oysters,  and  serve  as  soon  as  the  latter  are  heated 
through. 

LOBSTER   SAUCE   (FOR    BOILED    FISH). 

One  lobster. 

One-half  pint  of  drawn-butter  sauce  (see  receipt). 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Break  up  the  coral  of  the  lobster,  and  put  it  on  a  paper 
in  a  slow  oven  for  thirty  minutes.  Then  pound  it  in  a 
mortar,  and  sprinkle  it  over  the  boiled  fish  when  ready  to 
serve.  Chop  the  lobster  meat,  not  too  fine,  and  add  it  to 
the  sauce,  also  putting  in  a  pinch  of  the  coral  and  the 
salt  and  pepper. 

The  effect  is  spoiled  if  the  lobster  is  cut  too  fine. 
The  sauce  should  be  like  a  creamy  bed  for  the  lobster. 

MUSTARD   CREAM. 

This  is  served  with  baked  crabs  or  roast  clams  and  is 
a  dainty  addition  to  those  dishes. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  mustard. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Beat  the  butter, 
flour  and  mustard  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  pour  upon 
this  cream  the  boiling  hot  milk,  a  little  at  a  time.  When 
well  mixed,  return  all  to  the  boiler,  add  the  salt  and 
pepper,  boil  three  minutes,  and  serve. 


MEATS. 

"  With  baked  and  boiled  and  stewed  and  toasted, 
And  fried  and  broiled  and  smoked  and  roasted, 
We  treat  the  town." 

SALMAGUNDI. 

BEEF. 

FOR  the  best  cuts  of  beef  see  the  chapter  on  "  Market- 
ing." Directions  for  roasting,  broiling,  etc.,  have  been 
given  in  full  in  the  chapter  entitled  "  Plain  Directions," 

ROAST    BEEF,    WITH    YORKSHIRE    PUDDING. 

A  rib  or  sirloin  roast  should  be  prepared  as  directed 
for  roasting.  When  within  three-quarters  of  an  hour  of 
being  done,  have  the -pudding  ready  to  put  in  with  the 
meat.  Butter  a  pan  like  that  in  which  the  meat  is  being 
cooked,  and  pour  in  the  pudding.  Put  the  rack  upon 
which  the  meat  has  been  roasted  across  the  pan,  not  in 
it.  Place  the  meat  on  the  rack  again,  return  it  to  the 
oven  and  cook  forty-five  minutes.  If  there  should  be  but 
one  roasting  pan,  take  up  the  meat,  pour  off  the  gravy, 
saving  it  in  a  separate  dish  to  prepare  a  gravy  for  the 
beef,  and  put  the  pudding  in  the  roasting  pan.  Cut  it  in 
squares  when  done,  and  garnish  the  beef  with  these. 
Another  method  is  to  use  a  pan  that  has  squares  stamped 

142 


MEATS.  143 

in  it.  This  produces  even  squares,  with  crust  on  all  the 
edges,  which  cannot  be  obtained  by  baking  in  a  flat  pan. 
Still  another  way  is  to  heat  and  oil  the  iron  gem-pans 
and  pour  the  batter  into  them  to  cook,  basting  with  the 
dripping  from  the  roast.  When  this  utensil  is  used  for 
baking,  there  is  no  necessity  for  cutting  into  the  pudding, 
which  always  tends  to  make  it  heavy,  Serve  each  person 
one  of  the  gems  with  their  meat. 

YORKSHIRE   PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  flour. 

Three  eggs. 

One  scanty  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  add  the  salt  and  milk,  and 
then  pour  about  half  the  mixture  upon  the  flour.  When 
this  is  perfectly  smooth,  add  the  rest  of  the  liquid. 

FILLET   OF    BEEF,    WITH    MUSHROOM    SAUCE. 

One  sees  this  dish  at  almost  every  dinner  party. 
Many  order  it  already  cooked  from  the  restaurateur,  but 
his  price  is  heavy,  being  usually  ten  dollars  for  ten 
persons.  It  may  be  bought  from  the  butcher  for  one 
dollar  a  pound,  and  three  pounds  are  quite  sufficient 
when  this  dish  is  to  be  served  as  one  course.  The  fillet 
is  the  under  side  of  the  loin  of  beef — the  tenderloin.  The 
skin  and  fat  should  be  removed  with  a  sharp  knife,  and 
also  every  shred  of  muscle  and  ligament.  If  the  fillet  is 
not  then  of  a  good,  round  shape,  skewer  it  until  it  is  so. 
Lard  the  upper  surface  (see  "Larding.")  Dredge  well 
with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and  place  it  without  water 
in  a  small  pan.  Put  in  a  hot  oven  for  thirty  min- 


144  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

utes,  leaving  it  the  first  ten  minutes  on  the  lower  part  of 
the  oven,  and  then  placing  it  on  the  grate  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  time.  This  is  served  with  the  following 
sauce. 

MUSHROOM    SAUCE. 

One  forty-cent  can  of  French  mushrooms. 

Two  cupfuls  of  stock. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter,  and  when  hot,  add  the  flour  and  stir 
until  very  brown.  Gradually  add  the  stock,  setting  the 
pan  back  out  of  the  fierce  heat.  When  these  ingredients 
ate  well  stirred  together,  boil  up  once,  add  the  liquor 
from  the  mushrooms,  and  also  the  salt  and  pepper,  and 
simmer  gently  for  twenty  minutes.  Skim  off  any  oil  that 
may  rise  to  the  top,  add  the  mushrooms,  simmer  for  five 
minutes  more,  pour  the  sauce  over  the  beef,  and  serve  at 
once. 

BRAISED    BEEF. 

This  mode  of  cooking  is  particularly  well  adapted  to 
the  cheaper  pieces  of  meat,  or  those  that  are  lacking  in 
flavor  and  are  tough.  Braising  is  properly  done  when 
vegetables  and  herbs  are  used  for  seasoning  meat  and 
gravy,  although  these  are  sometimes  omitted  and  the 
meat  still  said  to  be  braised.  This  receipt  calls  for  six 
pounds  of  beef.  Spread  in  the  braising-pan  one-fourth  of 
a  pound  of  salt  pork,  cut  in  slices,  and  over  this  spread 
two  table-spoonfuls  each  of  chopped  onion,  carrot,  turnip 
and  celery.  Lay  the  meat  on  this  bed,  and  dredge  well 


MEATS.  145 

with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Cover,  and  put  in  a  moder- 
ately hot  oven  for  half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  this  time 
add  a  pint  and  a-half  of  water,  or  if  you  have  it,  of  soup- 
stock,  basting  the  meat  with  some  of  the  liquid,  and  again 
dredging  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  Cook  for  four 
.hours,  basting  every  quarter  of  an  hour.  At  the  end  of 
two  hours  add  another  pint  of  stock  or  water ;  also  mix 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch  with  half  a  cupful  of 
cold  water,  and  stir  this  into  the  juices  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  Cook  the  meat  for  the  last  half  hour  without  a 
cover,  as  it  should  be  of  a  delicate  brown.  Place  it  in 
the  serving-dish;  then  strain  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  sea- 
soning it  with  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary,  and  pour  part 
of  it  on  and  around  the  beef,  serving  the  rest  in  a  sepa- 
rate dish. 


A  POT  ROAST. 

A  tough  piece  of  meat  may  be  made  very  tender  by 
this  mode  of  cooking.  Wipe  the  meat  with  a  damp  cloth, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  put  it  into  an  iron  pot. 
Place  the  latter  over  a  moderate  heat,  and  brown  the 
meat  slowly,  turning  it  frequently  ;  this  will  usually  take 
about  twenty  minutes.  When  the  roast  is  well  browned, 
put  in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  cover  closely,  and  set 
the  pot  back  where  the  meat  will  cook  slowly.  As  the 
water  steams  away  add  a  little  more,  half  a  pint  at  a  time. 
Allow  about  fifteen  minutes  to  each  pound  for  a  piece  of 
meat  that  is  not  tough,  but  a  very  tough  roast  will  require 
twice  that  time.  Take  up  the  meat,  and  add  a  small 
quantity  of  water  to  the  juices  in  the  kettle.  Thicken 
the  gravy  with  a  little  flour  stirred  to  a  thin  paste  with 


146  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

a  little  water,  and  serve  in  a  separate  dish.     Boiled  rice  is 
generally  eaten  with  a  pot  roast. 

STUFFED    BEEFSTEAK. 

Use  the  round  for  this  dish,  having  it  cut  half  an  inch 
thick.  Lay  the  steak  flat  on  the  meat  board,  spread  over 
it  with  a  thin  layer  of  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper. 

Take  for  the  stuffing 

'  One  and  a-half  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  small  onion. 
One  large  tea  spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Milk  to  moisten. 

Grate  the  crumbs  fine,  season  with  the  salt  and  pepper, 
and  rub  in  the  butter ;  then  chop  the  onion  fine,  and  add 
it  to  the  crumbs.  Moisten  slightly  with  milk,  being  care- 
ful to  put  only  enough  in  to  soften  the  crumbs  a  little. 

Spread  this  stuffing  over  the  steak,  placing  tiny  bits  of 
butter  on  top  of  it.  Roll  the  steak  up  tightly,  rolling 
away  from  rather  than  towards  you,  and  keeping  the 
stuffing  in  at  the  ends  as  the  beef  is  rolled  up.  Wrap 
cord  or  common  wrapping  twine  around  the  roll,  using 
plenty  of  it,  and  winding  it  round  and  round  until  the 
meat  is  tightly  compressed.  Place  the  roll  in  an  iron  pot 
and  roast  the  same  as  a  pot  roast.  Remove  the  strings 
after  laying  the  beef  on  the  serving  dish,  pour  the  gravy 
around  and  over  the  meat,  and  serve  hot.  This  stuffed 
steak  is  sometimes  baked,  and  in  that  case  a  little  water 
should  be  added  to  the  pan  together  with  any  pieces  of 
suet  that  have  been  trimmed  off  the  meat. 


MEATS.  147 

BEEFSTEAK    AND    ONIONS. 

For  this  dish  the  cut  may  be  a  porterhouse,  a  sirloin 
or  the  round  ;  when  expense  is  to  be  considered,  the  last 
named  cut  will  be  found  both  economical  and  palatable. 
It  should  be  pounded  slightly  to  make  it  more  tender. 
Heat  a  frying-pan  until  quite  hot,  and  place  the  steak  in 
it,  adding  no  fat  at  all.  Cook  until  the  meat  is  either 
rare  or  well  done,  as  may  be  preferred.  If  the  finer  cuts 
are  used,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  meat  is  riot  cooked 
too  long,  but  the  round  will  need  to  be  fairly  well  cooked 
to  make  it  juicy  and  tender.  Remove  the  steak  to 
the  serving  dish.  Slice  the  onions  thin,  and  turn  them 
into  the  pan  in  which  the  steak  was  cooked.  Cover  the 
pan,  and  cook  the  onions  slowly  in  the  juices  from  the 
steak  until  they  are  tender ;  then  lift  them  out  and  place 
them  on  top  of  the  steak.  Add  a  little  water  to  the  juices 
in  the  pan,  and  thicken  the  gravy  with  a  little  flour  or 
corn-starch  wet  in  a  little  water.  Season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  pour  over  the  onions  and  steak.  This  gravy 
should  be  a  fine  brown.  Onions  cooked  this  way  will 
not  be  as  greasy  as  the  dish  that  is  often  served  under 
this  name. 

HAMBURG    STEAK. 

Have  the  butcher  chop  very  fine  two  pounds  of  the 
round  of  beef.  Press  it  into  a  flat  steak  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and 
flour,  lay  it  in  a  fine  wire  broiler,  and  broil  the  same  as 
beefsteak.  Spread  with  butter  and  serve  on  a  hot  dish. 
This  steak  is  sometimes  shaped  into  small,  thin,  flat 
cakes  and  fried  in  a  frying-pan,  a  little  pork,  fat  or  butter 
being  used  to  keep  the  meat  from  sticking  to  the  pan. 


1 4  8  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

A  gravy  is  then  made  by  thickening  the  juices  in  the  pan, 
a  little  water  being  added  before  the  thickening.  The 
gravy  should  be  poured  over  the  meat. 

CORNED    BEEF. 

Put  the  beef  into  the  pot  with  enough  cold  water  to 
cover  it,  and  when  it  boils  set  it  back  on  the  range  to  boil 
very  moderately.  Fast  boiling  of  salted  meats  renders 
them  very  hard,  yet  the  water  must  not  cease  bub- 
bling. Skim  often.  In  England  carrots  are  boiled 
and  served  with  this  dish,  and  they  much  improve  the 
flavor  of  the  beef.  They  are  not  put  in  the  pot  until 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  serving  time,  and  they 
are  arranged  about  the  meat  on  the  platter.  In  America 
cabbage  is  generally  boiled  with  the  beef.  When  this  is 
used,  one  or  two  little  red  peppers,  also  boiled  with  the 
beef,  improve  the  quality  of  the  dish.  When  ready  to 
serve,  after  taking  out  the  meat,  lift  the  cabbage  from 
the  saucepan,  using  a  skimmer  for  the  purpose.  Drain 
the  cabbage  well  in  a  colander,  pressing  out  all  the  water. 
Serve  it  around  the  beef  or  in  a  separate  dish,  as  may  be 
liked. 

BEEF-HEART,    STEWED. 

The  heart  of  the  ox  is  very  inexpensive,  yet  it 
makes  a  most  delicious  dish.  Wash  the  heart  well,  re- 
move the  muscles  from  the  inside,  and  take  out  every 
particle  of  blood.  Make  a  stuffing  of 

One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  celery. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


MEATS.  149 

Mix  these  ingredients  well  together,  and  stuff  the  cavity 
of  the  heart  with  them.  Tie  the  heart  about  with  twine, 
and  wrap  it  in  a  cloth,  sewing  the  ends  together  to  keep 
the  stuffing  in.  Place  in  a  small  stew-pan,  with  the  point 
of  the  heart  down,  and  nearly  cover  with  water  boiling 
hot.  Place  the  lid  on  the  pan,  and  simmer  gently  for 
three  hours.  When  done,  there  should  be  about  a  pint 
of  water  in  the  pan.  Remove  the  cloth  and  place  the 
heart  on  a  platter.  Add  a  little  water  to  the  pan,  thicken 
the  juices  with  a  small  quantity  of  flour  or  corn-starch, 
wet  in  a  little  water,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  and  around  the  heart. 

BAKED    HEART. 

This  is  prepared  the  same  as  the  stew.  When  done, 
the  cloth  is  removed  and  the  heart  placed  in  a  pan  in  a 
very  hot  oven  and  browned.  Serve  with  the  gravy  the 
same  as  the  preceding. 

CREAMED    DRIED    BEEF. 

This  makes  a  very  satisfactory  breakfast  dish.  .The 
beef  should  be  shaved  thin  by  the  butcher. 

One-half  pound  of  beef. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Place  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  melted  add 
the  beef.  Stir  until  the  slices  begin  to  curl ;  then  add 
the  milk.  When  this  boils  up,  stir  in  the  flour  wet  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk.  Season  with  the  pepper, 
and  serve  on  toast  or  plainly,  as  preferred. 


150  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BEEF    a  la  Mode. 

Two  pounds  of  beef. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  beef  or  pork  drippings. 

One  onion,  sliced  thin. 

One  bay-leaf. 

One  lemon,  cut  in  slices. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  ground  allspice. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  mace. 

The  meat  used  for  this  purpose  may  be  from  the  round 
or  any  other  part  that  is  lean.  Cut  it  into  pieces  of 
about  three  ounces  weight,  and  dredge  well  with  flour. 
Put  the  beef  drippings  and  the  sliced  onion  in  a  large 
stew-pan,  and  when  hot,  put  in  the  meat  and  stir  con- 
stantly for  ten  minutes.  Dredge  in  more  flour  until  the 
mixture  is  well  thickened,  adding  the  bay-leaf,  which 
should  be  broken,  and  sprinkling  in  the  spices,  which 
should  be  well  mixed  together  ;  add  also  the  salt  and 
pepper  and  sliced  lemon.  When  these  have  been  well 
stirfed  together,  pour  in  gradually,  still  stirring,  enough 
water  to  cover  the  meat.  Place  the  cover  on  the  stew- 
pan,  and  simmer  gently  for  four  hours. 

USES  FOR  COOKED  BEEF. 

There  is  a  good-sized  book  written  on  this  subject. 
As  there  are  about  two  hundred  ways  of  utilizing  cold 
beef,  there  can  never  be  any  excuse  for  wasting  a  parti- 
cle. 

BEEF    BALLS. 

One  large  pint  of  chopped  beef. 
One  scanty  pint  of  fine  bread-crumbs. 


ME  A  TS.  151 

One  and  a-half  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sage. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  egg. 

One  small  stalk  of  celery. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

Milk  to  moisten  the  whole. 

The  seasoning  of  these  balls  may  be  made  with  what  is 
available,  the  celery,  parsley  or  sage  being  used  if  con- 
venient; but  the  onion  is  a  necessity,  for  the  balls  are 
perfectly  tasteless  without  some  seasoning  of  this  sort. 
The  butter  is  not  used  if  there  is  an  equal  quantity  of  fat 
on  the  beef.  Add  the  seasoning  to  the  bread-crumbs ; 
then  chop  the  onion,  celery  and  parsley  fine,  and  when 
they  are  well  mixed,  put  them  with  the  chopped  meat. 
Add  the  beaten  egg,  mixing  all  well  together;  and  lastly 
stir  in  the  milk.  The  exact  quantity  of  milk  is  hard  to 
give.  There  should  be  enough  to  nicely  moisten  the  mass 
so  it  may  be  made  into  smooth  cakes.  Form  the  mixture 
into  cakes  with  the  hands,  and  flour  each  side  before  fry- 
ing. They  should  be  cooked  for  five  minutes  in  very  hot 
fat. 

Lamb  or  mutton  chops  that  may  be  left  over  from  a 
former  meal,  or  the  tough  ends  of  steaks,  will  do  nicely  for 
these  balls. 

COOKED    BEEF    IN    TOMATO. 

Cut  the  beef  into  thin  slices,  if  possible  ;  if  this  cannot 
be  done,  have  the  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  large  oyster. 
Place  them  in  a  frying-pan,  and  add  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
canned  tomato,  nearly  covering  the  meat.  Add  butter 


152  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  slowly,  with  the  cover  on  the 
pan,  for  half  an  hour.     Serve  on  a  platter. 

BEEF    ON    TOAST. 

Finely  chop  the  beef,  which  may  be  the  ends  of  steaks 
or  the  remnants  of  a  roast.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
For  each  pint  of  meat  stir  in  a  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
mixing  thoroughly.  Place  the  meat  in  a  small  stew-pan, 
and  pour  in  enough  milk  to  nearly  cover.  Simmer  gently 
for  ten  minutes,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter.  It  is 
better  not  to  use  the  fat  of  the  beef  when  chopping  it  up, 
for  the  butter  imparts  a  much  better  flavor  to  the 
whole.  Toast  six  slices  of  bread,  arrange  them  on  a 
platter,  spread  the  beef  upon  them,  and  serve  at  once. 
It  is  surprising  what  a  really  small  quantity  of  meat  will 
suffice  for  a  breakfast  when  served  in  this  way. 

SHEPHERDS'   PIE. 

One  quart  of  cold  beef. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  water. 

Eight  large  potatoes. 

One  cupful  of  hot  milk. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  meat  into  thin  slices,  and  season  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Place  the  meat  in  an  earthenware  dish, 
and  over  it  pour  a  sauce  made  as  follows  :  Put  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot, 
add  the  flour.  Stir  until  brown,  and  pour  in  the  water. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  boil  for  three  minutes. 
Pare,  boil  and  mash  the  potatoes,  and  add  to  them  the 


MEATS.  153 

boiling  hot  milk,  the  other  spoonful  of  butter,  and  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste.  Spread  this  preparation  over  the 
sauce  and  bake  for  thirty  minutes.  Other  meats  beside 
beef  may  be  used  for  this  dish. 

MEAT  PIE. 

Make  a  crust  as  for  pies  (see  "  Desserts "),  roll  it 
rather  thickly,  and  line  a  deep  dish  with  it.  Cut  the  beef 
in  rather  small  pieces — about  the  size  of  an  oyster — ,  slic- 
ing it  thinly  if  possible.  Dredge  well  with  flour,  and  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  a  thick  layer  of  meat  in 
the  dish,  and  dot  it  with  small  pieces  of  butter,  add 
another  layer  and  more  butter,  and  so  continue  until  all 
the  meat  is  used.  Squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice  over  all.  If 
there  should  be  any  gravy  left  from  roast  meat,  add 
a  few  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  pour  it  over  the 
meat.  In  this  case  use  less  butter  through  the  meat.  If 
there  is  no  gravy,  add  water  to  the  meat  to  half  of  its 
height,  but  if  gravy  is  used,  and  there  is  not  enough  to 
make  up  this  quantity,  add  as  much  water  as  needful. 
Cover  the  top  with  a  crust,  pinching  the  edge  of  the 
under  crust  to  that  of  the  upper  the  same  as  for  any 
other  pie.  Bake  forty-five  minutes. 

ESCALLOPED     BEEF    AND   MACARONI. 

One-quarter  pound  of  macaroni. 
One  quart  of  cooked  beef. 
One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  pint  of  water. 
Salt  and  pepper. 


I  54  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Boil  the  macaroni  slowly  until  soft — generally  about 
forty  minutes.  Make  a  sauce  by  rubbing  the  butter  and 
flour  together  and  adding  a  pint  of  the  water  the 
macaroni  was  boiled  in  ;  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Place  in  the  baking  dish  a  layer  of  macaroni,  and  season 
well ;  cover  with  part  of  the  sauce,  and  arrange  a  layer  of 
meat  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper ;  and  continue  with 
the  layers  of  macaroni,  sauce  and  meat  until  all  the  mate- 
rials have  been  used.  Cover  the  last  layer  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  bake  for  half  an  hour.  Serve  in  the  same 
dish. 

BAKED    HASH    OF    RICE   AND    BEEF. 

One  cupful  of  cooked  beef. 

One  cupful  of  cooked  rice. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  egg. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Chop  the  meat,  but  not  too  fine.  Put  the  milk  on  the 
fire,  and  when  hot,  add  all  the  other  ingredients,  except 
the  egg.  Stir  for  one  minute,  to  insure  the  whole 
being  thoroughly  hot,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
egg,  well  beaten.  Turn  the  hash  into  a  baking  dish,  and 
bake  twenty  minutes.  Serve  in  the  same  dish.  The 
hash  should  be  very  brown. 

BAKED    HASH    OF    POTATO   AND    BEEF. 

Two  cupfuls  of  cooked  beef. 

One  cupful  of  cold  mashed  potato. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Salt  and  pepper. 


ME  A  TS.  155 

Chop  the  meat,  but  not  too  fine,  add  the  cold  mashed 
potato  and  the  other  ingredients,  and  bake  half  an  hour 
or  until  well  browned. 

CORNED-BEEF    HASH. 

One  pint  of  chopped  beef. 
One  pint  of  potato. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk  or  water. 
Salt  and  pepper. 

Chop  the  potato  and  the  meat  separately  and  rather 
fine,  seasoning  each  when  chopped.  If  the  beef  is  very 
salt,  do  not  add  salt.  Mix  beef  and  potatoes  together 
lightly.  Pour  the  milk  in  a  frying-pan  with  half  the  but- 
ter, and  when  warm,  turn  in  the  hash,  spreading  it  evenly, 
and  placing  the  rest  of  the  butter,  cut  in  pieces,  on  the 
top.  Cover  the  pan,  and  place  it  where  the  hash  will 
cook  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  There  should  then  be  a 
rich,  thick  crust  on  the  bottom.  Do  not  stir  the  hash. 
Fold  it  the  same  as  an  omelette,  and  place  it  on  a  warm 
platter.  This  slow  process  of  heating  the  hash  gives  it  a 
flavor  that  cannot  be  obtained  by  hurried  cooking 

BEEF-LIVER    STEW. 

One  pound  of  liver. 

One-half  lemon. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  liver  in  slices,  wash  them  well  in  lukewarm 
salted  water,  and  dry  them  on  a  napkin.  Place  some 
pork  drippings  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  fry  the  liver 


I  5  6  THE  PA  TTERN  CO  OK-B  O  OK. 

about  three  minutes.  Turn  it  into  a  small  stew-pan,  add 
enough  water  to  cover,  the  lemon  cut  in  slices,  all  the 
spices  and  sufficient  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  the  pan,  and 
stew  slowly  for  thirty  minutes.  When  done  stir  into  the 
gravy  in  the  pan  a  little  corn-starch  wet  with  water. 
Taste,  and  add  more  seasoning,  if  necessary.  Serve  on  a 
small  platter.  This  mode  of  cooking  beef  liver  renders  it 
tender  and  sweet. 

BEEF    KIDNEY. 

Beef  and  sheep  kidneys  are  often  recommended  for 
food  on  account  of  their  cheapness,  and  epicures  are 
fond  of  them  as  well.  The  latest  decision  of  physicians 
is  that  they  are  not  suitable  for  food,  as,  "  from  their  con- 
stant use  in  the  animal  system,  as  organs  which  separate 
from  the  blood  that  which  would  poison  the  system  if  it 
remained  in  the  blood,  they  are  often  liable  to  become 
diseased."  Kidneys  may  be  prepared  (for  those  who 
like  them)  the  same  as  liver  stew,  in  the  preceding 
receipt. 

BEEF    TONGUE. 

Choose  a  plump  tongue  with  a  smooth  skin,  which 
denotes  the  age  of  the  animal.  If  it  has  been  salted  and 
dried,  soak  it  for  twenty  hours  before  boiling,  using  plenty 
of  water ;  but  if  it  is  fresh  from  the  brine,  it  will  need  to 
be  soaked  only  three  or  four  hours.  Put  the  tongue 
into  cold  water,  and  let  it  gradually  warm  for  one  hour, 
then  let  it  cook  slowly  for  two  hours.  Plunge  it  into  cold 
water,  when  done,  to  remove  the  skin.  If  the  tongue  is 
perfectly  fresh,  put  it  on  to  cook  in  boiling  hot  water, 


MEATS.  157 

salting  the  water  slightly  ;  and  cook  until  tender.  Serve 
by  slicing  across  the  tongue.  Sandwiches  made  of  tongue 
are  held  in  high  esteem. 

TRIPE. 

Tripe  is  the  large  stomach  of  a  ruminating  animal  and 
is  nutritious  and  easily  digested. 

TO    PREPARE    TRIPE    FOR    COOKING. 

Scald  the  stomach  with  boiling  water  sufficiently  to 
loosen  the  inside  coating;  if  this  is  properly  done,  the 
coating  may  be  easily  scraped  off.  Wash  the  tripe  well 
through  several  boiling  waters  ;  then  put  it  in  cold  water, 
and  let  it  soak  over  night.  Scrape  again  until  white  and 
clean.  Tripe  is  usually  sold  in  the  city  markets  already 
cleaned. 

BOILED    TRIPE. 

Boil  the  tripe  in  equal  parts  of  milk  and  water  for  half 
an  hour,  boiling  at  the  same  time  and  in  the  same  water 
a  couple  of  onions,  which  should  be  put  in  the  water  at 
least  half  an  hour  before  the  tripe  is  put  in  to  boil. 
Skim  out  the  onions  when  perfectly  tender,  and  make 
them  into  a  sauce  to  pour  over  the  tripe.  The  sauce  is 
made  as  follows : 

ONION    SAUCE    FOR    TRIPE. 

Drain  the  cooked  onions  well  and  chop  them  very 
fine  ;  then  place  them  in  half  a  pint  of  hot  milk,  and 
season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 


I  5  8  TJIE  PA  TTERN  CO  OK-B O OK. 

VEAL. 

Very  young  veal  may  be  known  by  its  small  and  tender 
bones,  the  flesh  having  a  bluish  tinge  and  a  soft,  flabby 
appearance.  When  from  two  to  three  months  old  the  flesh 
is  firm  and  has  a  pinkish  tinge,  and  the  bones  are  hard. 
It  is  then  in  its  prime.  At  best  veal  is  an  indigestible 
meat  and  contains  little  nutriment.  It  has  very  little 
flavor  and  needs  to  be  well  seasoned  and  thoroughly 
cooked  to  be  at  all  palatable.  Despite  the  prejudice 
which  prevails,  however,  the  excellent  and  attractive 
dishes  of  which  veal  forms  the  basis  are  almost  with- 
out number. 

The  lower  part  of  the  leg,  or  knuckle,  and  all  the 
gristly  portions  are  used  for  soup.  Cutlets  or  steaks, 
the  fillet  and  the  fricandeau  or  cushion  are  cut  from  the 
thickest  part  of  the  leg.  The  loin  is  used  for  chops  or 
roasts,  the  breast  for  roasts  and  the  neck  for  stews  or  for 
soup.  The  head  is  also  used  for  soup,  the  heart  for 
stewing  and  pickling,  and  the  liver  in  many  ways. 

ROAST   VEAL. 

Wipe  the  meat,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and 
place  it  in  a  pan,  pouring  a  little  water  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pan.  Roast  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes  for  every 
pound  of  veal.  -Baste  every  twenty  minutes  with  half  a 
pint  of  warm  water  into  which  has  been  melted  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  using  the  liquid  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  for  basting  as  soon  as  there  is  sufficient.  Make  a 
gravy  the  same  as  for  any  roast,  using  the  liquid  in  the  pan. 

STUFFED  BREAST  OF  VEAL. 

Make  an  incision  between  the   ribs   and  the   meat  to 


ME  A  TS.  I  59 

form  a  cavity,  in  which  to  place  the  stuffing.  The  butcher 
will,  however,  prepare  the  veal  for  stuffing,  if  ordered  to 
do  so.  Use  for  the  stuffing 

One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 
One-quarter  pound  of  fat' salt  pork. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  marjoram. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  thyme. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

The  pork  should  be  chopped  very  fine  and  will  make 
about  a  large  table-spoonful  when  chopped.  Butter  may 
be  used  in  its  place,  if  preferred.  Roast  the  same  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  receipt. 

VEAL    CUTLETS. 

Wipe  the  cutlets,  sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
dip  them  first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  fine  bread  or 
cracker-crumbs,  and  fry  in  drippings  until  brown.  The 
cutlets  should  be  thoroughly  browned  on  both  sides. 
Place  them  on  a  platter,  add  a  little  water  to  the  gravy  in 
the  pan,  and  thicken  slightly  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
Hour  wet  in  a  little  water.  Strain  the  gravy,  if  it  is  not 
entirely  smooth. 

VEAL   AND    HAM. 

These  are  often  dressed  together.  Heat  the  frying- 
pan  hot,  and  fry  the  ham,  using  no  fat  unless  the  meat  is 
unusually  lean.  When  the  ham  is  cooked,  place  it  on  the 
serving  dish,  and  cook  the  veal  in  the  juices  left  from  the 
ham,  frying  without  covering  until  it  is  a  deep  brown. 
After  the  veal  is  done,  add  a  little  water  to  the  gravy, 
season  with  pepper,  and  pour  it  without  thickening  over 


l6o  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  meat.     The  gravy  will  scarcely  need  salt,  unless  the 
ham  is  rather  fresh. 

VEAL    STEW,    WITH    DUMPLINGS. 

The  ends  of  the  ribs,  the  neck  and  the  knuckle  may  be 
utilized  for  a  stew. 

Three  pounds  of  veal. 

Two  small  onions. 

Five  potatoes. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  meat  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  tea-cup,  and 
place  them  in  a  kettle  with  the  onion,  salt  and  pepper 
and  enough  water  to  just  cover  them.  Simmer  gently 
until  the  meat  is  tender,  about  an  hour  being  generally 
sufficient.  Strips  of  salt  pork  are  sometimes  cooked 
in  with  the  veal  and  add  much  to  the  flavor.  Half 
an  hour  before  serving  add  the  potatoes,  cut  in  halves, 
and  boil  them  with  the  meat.  Use  for  the  dumplings 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One-half  a  large  table-spoonful  of  lard. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Milk  to  moisten. 

Stir  the  baking-powder  and  salt  into  the  flour,  and  rub 
in  the  lard  with  a  spoon  until  the  whole  is  thoroughly 
mixed.  Add  enough  milk  to  moisten  the  flour,  and 
make  a  dough,  taking  care  not  to  make  the  mixture 
too  wet.  Flour  the  baking-board,  roll  the  dough  out 
an  inch  thick,  and  cut  out  as  for  biscuit.  Put  the  pieces 
on  a  plate,  set  the  plate  in  a  steamer  over  the  stew,  and 


MEATS.  l6l 

steam  twenty  minutes.  When  the  dumplings  are  done, 
place  them  on  a  platter,  and  with  a  skimmer  lift  the  meat 
and  potato  from  the  kettle  and  lay  them  on  the  platter. 
Add  the  milk  and  butter  to  the  gravy  in  the  kettle,  and 
thicken  with  a  little  flour  stirred  to  a  thin,  smooth  paste 
with  water.  Pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat  and  dump- 
lings. If  the  stew  should  seem  quite  boiled  down,  the 
dumplings  should  be  steamed  over  a  separate  kettle  of 
boiling  water,  as  the  rapid  boiling  necessary  for  their 
cooking  reduces  the  stew  very  much. 

Another  mode  of  cooking  the  dumplings  is  to  boil  them 
in  with  the  stew  ;  but  they  are  very  apt  to  be  heavy 
unless  served  the  moment  they  are  done,  which  in  some 
homes  is  not  always  possible.  The  steamed  dumplings 
can  always  be  relied  upon  to  be  light. 

VEAL   LOAF. 

This  may  be  served  cold  for  luncheon  or  tea,  or  hot 
with  the  sauce  given  in  the  recipe. 

Two  and  a-half  pounds  of  veal. 
One-half  pound  of  salt  pork. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 
One-half  cupful  of  cracker  crumbs. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  water  or  stock. 
One  egg. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  sage. 

Chop  the  veal  and  pork  very  fine,  and  add  the  other 
.  ingredients,   except  the   butter.     Mix    all   well    together 
with  the  hands.     Butter  a  small  pan  or  deep  pie-tin,  and 
ii 


1 62  THE  PA  TTERN  CO  OK-B  O  OK. 

press  the  mixture  into  it  like  a  loaf,  making  it  about  three 
inches  high.  Cook  for  two  hours  in  a  rather  hot  oven, 
basting  with  another  half  cupful  of  water  or  stock  in 
which  the  butter  has  been  melted.  Serve  with  the  follow- 
lowing  sauce : 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter  hot,  and  stir  in  the  flour.  When  the 
above  ingredients  are  well  browned,  draw  the  pan  back 
and  slowly  add  the  milk.  Boil  three  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  set  back  to  keep  hot. 
Pour  into  the  sauce  the  gravy  that  remains  in  the  pan 
after  baking  the  loaf,  and  having  stirred  the  sauce  well, 
turn  it  over  the  loaf  and  serve. 

JELLIED    VEAL. 

Any  cheap  pieces  of  veal  will  do  for  this  dish,  which  is 
very  nice  for  luncheon  or  supper. 

Three  pounds  of  veal. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  sage  or  any  other  herbs  available. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  meat  in  pieces,  and  stew  slowly  in  a  very  little 
water.  When  tender  take  it  from  the  kettle  and  chop 
fine.  Then  return  the  meat  to  the  kettle,  with  the  water 
it  was  cooked  in,  and  add  salt  and  pepper,  the  sage  and 
onion,  and  a  bit  of  celery  or  parsley  if  it  is  to  be  had, 
chopping  all  the  vegetables  very  fine.  Cook  ten  minutes, 
and  pour  into  a  square  tin.  When  cold  cut  into  slices 


MEATS.  163 

and  serve.     Care  should  be  taken  not  too  use  too  much 
water  for  cooking  the  veal. 

STUFFED    PEPPERS.       (A    SOUTHERN    DISH.) 

This  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  ways  of  using  cold 
veal.  The  peppers  should  be  large  and  green  and  not 
too  thick.  Carefully  cut  round  the  tops  of  the  peppers 
about  half  an  inch  from  the  stem,  dig  out  all  the  seeds, 
and  cut  out  the  "  partitions  "  or  thick  pieces  inside  the 
peppers.  Soak  the  peppers  and  tops  in  salted  water  over 
night,  changing  for  fresh  water  in  the  morning.  Chop  the 
veal  rather  fine,  and  season  with  salt,  but  no  pepper. 
Wipe  the  peppers  dry,  place  in  each,  as  it  is  being  pre- 
pared, a  small  piece  of  butter,  and  fill  it  with  the  chopped 
veal,  placing  another  bit  of  butter  on  top  of  the  meat. 
Fit  the  tops,  and  sew  them  on  with  coarse  thread. 
When  all  are  stuffed  and  sewed,  place  them  in  a  kettle 
with  water  enough  to  nearly  cover  them,  adding  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  to  the  water.  Stew  slowly,  turning 
the  peppers  occasionally,  until  they  look  shiny  and  semi- 
transparent.  This  will  take  a  full  hour.  Take  them  up 
very  carefully  with  a  skimmer  so  they  will  not  break,  lay 
them  on  the  serving  dish,  and  carefully  remove  the 
threads.  Thicken  the  gravy  in  the  kettle  with  a  little 
flour  or  corn-starch  wet  in  a  little  water,  adding  salt  if 
needed,  and,  if  not  very  rich,  adding  also  a  spoonful  of 
butter.  Pour  this  on  the  peppers,  and  serve.  Should 
there  be  any  gravy  left  from  a  roast  of  veal,  turn  it  into 
the  kettle  before  stewing  the  peppers ;  and  in  this  case 
use  no  butter. 

If  it  should  be  found  necessary  to  hurry  this  dish,  the 
peppers  may  be  soaked  on  the  back  of  the  range  by  plac- 


164  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

ing  them  in  cold  water  and  changing  the  water  as  soon  as 
well  warmed ;  in  this  way,  with  frequent  changes,  the 
peppers  will  soak  sufficiently  to  make  them  edible  in 
four  hours.  This  dish  may  seem  difficult  to  prepare,  but 
it  is  really  easy  and  fully  repays  the  little  "  fussing  "  that 
many  weary  of  in  work  of  any  kind. 

k  fricandeau  OF  VEAL. 

This  is  by  far  the  choicest  considered  cut  of  the 
veal,  and  is  a  thick  piece  of  lean  meat  cut  from  the  top 
of  the  leg.  It  is  always  trimmed  high  in  the  center,  and 
thin  at  the  outside,  making  really  a  little  mound  of  meat. 
Lard  the  top,  and  braise  it  in  a  braising  pan  the  same  as 
braised  beef.  When  done,  dish  the  meat,  very  slightly 
thicken  the  juices  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  strain,  and 
turn  the  gravy  over  the  fricandeau. 

CALF'S  LIVER  AND  BACON. 

Calf's  liver  is  considered  quite  a  delicacy  and  is  always 
expensive.  It  is  rarely  served  without  bacon  as  an 
accompaniment.  Cut  the  bacon  in  very  thin  slices, 
place  them  in  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  turn  constantly  until 
all  are  crisp ;  then  take  them  up  and  keep  hot.  Cut 
the  liver  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  wash  it  in  cold  water, 
and  dry  on  a  napkin.  Place  the  frying-pan  where  the 
heat  will  not  be  so  great  as  when  the  bacon  was  cooked, 
and  fry  the  liver  ten  minutes,  turning  it  frequently. 
Place  the  liver  in  the  center  of  the  platter,  with  the  bacon 
around  it  as  a  garnish. 

Stir  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  into  the  hot  fat  in  the 
pan,  and  stir  until  brown.  Set  the  pan  back,  and  grad- 
ually add  enough  boiling  water  to  make  the  gravy.  Sea- 


MEATS.  165 

son  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the 
liver  and  bacon.  Slow  cooking  spoils  bacon,  and  rapid 
cooking  hardens  and  toughens  liver. 

CALF'S  LIVER,  CREAMED. 

Two  pounds  of  liver. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Five  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One  slice  of  onion. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  liver  in  small  pieces,  cover  with  cold  water  for 
ten  minutes,  and  drain.  Heat  the  butter,  put  in  the  liver, 
seasoning  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  slowly  eight 
minutes,  browning  it  on  all  sides ;  then  take  up  the  liver, 
and  place  it  where  it  will  keep  warm.  Place  the  onion  in 
the  frying-pan,  and  cook  one  minute ;  add  the  flour,  and 
cook,  constantly  stirring,  until  it  begins  to  froth.  Draw 
the  pan  back,  gradually  add  the  cold  milk  and  cook  one 
minute,  stirring  all  the  time.  Place  the  liver  in  the  pan 
with  the  gravy,  cover  the  pan,  and  stew  very  slowly  five 
minutes  longer.  This  is  a  pleasant  dish  for  breakfast, 
luncheon  or  tea. 

LIVER    HASH. 

One  pint  of  cooked  liver. 
One  cupful  of  cold  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-juice. 
Salt  and  pepper. 

Cut  the  liver  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  penny,  and  meas- 
ure after  cutting.  Heat  the  butter,  and  stir  in  the  flour, 


1 66  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

cooking  and  stirring  until  brown ;  then  add  the  water 
gradually,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the 
liver  in  this  sauce,  and  simmer  very  gently  twenty  min- 
utes. Add  the  lemon  juice,  and  serve  very  hot. 

BAKED  CALF'S  LIVER,  WITH  STUFFING. 

Wash  the  liver  well  in  cold,  salted  water.  Make  an 
incision  in  the  thickest  part  with  a  long,  narrow,  sharp 
knife,  enlarging  the  aperture  where  the  blade  enters  as 
little  as  possible,  but  moving  the  point  of  the  knife  to 
and  fro  to  increase  the  size  of  the  cavity  inside.  Fill 
with  the  following  stuffing  : 

One  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-half  a  small  onion. 

Sage,  celery  and  parsley,  if  at  hand 

Chop  the  onion  fine,  place  it  in  a  bowl,  and  pour 
scalding  water  on  it.  Let  it  stand  only  a  half  minute, 
when  pour  the  water  off ;  this  takes  away  the  very  rank 
taste  of  the  onion.  Rub  the  butter  well  into  the  crumbs, 
using  the  hands  ;  this  should  be  done  at  least  half  an 
hour  before  the  stuffing  is  needed,  as  the  flavor  will  be 
greatly  improved  by  the  butter  and  crumbs  remaining 
together  for  a  time.  Add  a  tea-spoonful  of  each  of  the 
herbs,  if  they  are  available,  and  also  the  onion  and  the 
salt  and  pepper  ;  the  stuffing  is  then  ready  to  use.  This 
makes  a  delightfully  crumbly  stuffing,  not  the  paste  that 
is  often  called  by  that  name. 

After  filling  the  liver  with  stuffing,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  flour  it.  Place  it  in  a  roasting  pan, 


MEATS.  167 

adding  a  little  water,  and  lay  strips  of  fat  pork  over  the 
liver.  Roast  for  one  hour.  Baste  every  twenty  minutes, 
the  first  time  with  half  a  pint  of  water  in  which  has  been 
placed  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  afterward  with 
the  gravy  in  the  pan.  When  the  liver  is  done,  place  it  on 
a  hot  platter,  thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  the  same  as 
for  any  roast  (See  "  Roasting "),  and  pour  it  around 
and  over  the  liver. 

CALF'S  HEAD.     TO  CLEAN. 

A  calf's  head  may  usually  be  purchased  from  the 
butcher  already  cleaned,  but  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
prefer,  or  are  compelled,  to  clean  it  themselves,  the 
proper  mode  of  procedure  is  here  given.  Place  the  head 
in  warm  water  for  five  minutes ;  then  lift  it  out  and  pow- 
der the  hair  with  pulverized  resin.  The  resin  is  not  in- 
dispensable, but  it  facilitates  the  operation.  Have  ready 
a  large  kettle  of  scalding  water,  and  after  using  the  pow- 
der, plunge  the  head  into  the  kettle,  covering  every  part. 
Raise  it  after  one  minute,  hold  it  by  the  ear,  and  care- 
fully scrape  off  all  the  hair.  Then  lay  the  head  on  a 
board,  saw  it  in  halves  lengthwise  through  the  skull,  and 
take  out  the  eyes,  brain  and  tongue.  Scrape  the  ear, 
nasal  and  throat  passages  well,  scalding  them  if  they 
do  not  seem  perfectly  clean  ;  and  remove  the  gristle  that 
is  around  the  nose.  Break  the  jaw-bone,  remove  the 
gums  and  teeth,  and  lay  the  head  in  a  large  panful  of 
water  to  soak. 

Half  a  head  is  generally  enough  to  serve  at  one  time. 

STEWED  CALF'S  HEAD,.  WITH  BRAIN  SAUCE. 
Put  the  head  in  slightly  salted   water,  and  boil  until 


1 68  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  meat  is  tender;  then  take  it  up,  and  drain  well. 
Score  the  top  a  little,  rub  it  over  with  melted  butter, 
dredge  with  flour,  and  place  it  in  the  oven  in  a  baking 
pan  to  brown.  When  browned,  pour  over  the  head  the 
following  sauce  : 

BRAIN    SAUCE. 

Soak  the  brains  for  half  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Re- 
move the  membrane  that  covers  them,  and  make  sure 
they  are  perfectly  white  and  free  of  blood-filled  veins 
by  cleansing  them  again  and  again  in  fresh  water.  Place 
them  in  a  piece  of  cheese-cloth,  tie  the  ends,  and  stew 
them  half  an  hour  in  enough  water  to  cover  ;  then  take 
them  out,  remove  the  cloth,  after  draining  well,  and 
mash  them  with  the  back  of  a  strong  spoon.  Add 
.gradually,  that  the  mixture  may  not  be  lumpy,  a  small 
tea-cupful  of  the  water  in  which  the  head  was  boiled ;  also 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  a  large  spoonful  of  butter,  a 
pinch  of  sage  and  powdered  cloves,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  if  it  is  available.  Set  the  sauce  on  the 
fire  to  simmer  gently  while  the  head  is  browning. 

CALF'S  HEAD  CHEESE. 

One  calf's  head. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonfnl  of  summer  savory. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  marjoram. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sage. 

Place  the  head  in  enough  hot  water  to  cover  it,  and 
simmer  until  the  meat  will  leave  the  bone.  Take  out  the 


MEATS.  169 

head  very  carefully  on  a  skimmer,  remove  the  bones, 
chop  the  meat,  and  add  the  seasoning.  Have  ready  a 
small  bag  made  of  cheese-cloth,  pack  the  mixture  into  it, 
tie  the  bag  tightly,  and  hang  it  away  to  cool.  When 
cold,  turn  the  bag  wrong  side  out  off  the  meat.  Serve 
cold  for  lunch  or  tea,  cutting  the  cheese  into  thin  slices. 


Two  sets  of  brains. 

One  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One-half  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

One-half  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One-half  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  onion  juice. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Soak  the  brains  for  two  hours  in  warm  water,  free 
them  from  the  skin  and  large  fibres,  and  wash  in  cold 
water.  Tie  them  loosely  in  a  piece  of  thin  muslin, 
and  place  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cover,  adding  the 
vinegar  to  the  water.  Boil  thirty  minutes,  take  out  the 
brains,  and  plunge  them  into  cold  water.  When  cold, 
drain,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces.  Now  make 
a  sauce  thus :  Place  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
hot,  add  the  flour.  Stir  until  smooth  and  frothy,  and 
then  gradually  add  the  milk.  As  soon  as  the  liquid 
boils,  add  the  parsley,  onion  juice  and  half  the  pepper 
and  salt,  the  other  half  being  sprinkled  on  the  brains. 
Beat  the  egg,  and  add  it  to  the  brains,  mixing  well. 
Spread  a  layer  of  crumbs  on  the  bottom  of  a  baking-dish, 


1 70  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK:. 

then  half  the  brains,  then  a  layer  of  the  sauce,  and  finally 
a  layer  of  crumbs.  Again  arrange  a  layer  of  brains  and 
sauce,  and  finish  with  crumbs.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven.  It  makes  the  dish  richer,  but  not  so 
delicate,  to  strew  bits  of  butter  on  the  top  layer  of 
crumbs.  Serve  in  the  dish  the  scallop  is  made  in. 

SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads  are  two  glands  lying  along  the  back  of  the 
throat  and  breast.  The  lower  one  is  round  and  compact, 
and  is  called  the  "  heart "  sweetbread,  because  nearer  the 
heart ;  the  upper  or  "  throat "  sweetbread  is  long  and 
narrow  and  is  easily  divided  into  sections.  The  connect- 
ing membrane  is  sometimes  broken  and  each  gland  sold 
as  a  whole  sweetbread,  but  there  should  always  be  two. 
The  sweetbreads  of  calves  and  young  lambs  are  those 
used  for  food.  Lamb  sweetbreads  are  usually  left  in  the 
fore-quarter  and  are  rarely  cooked  separately.  They  are, 
however,  sometimes  sold  by  the  pound  or  pair  like  those 
of  veal. 

Sweetbreads  are  prime  only  so  long  as  the  animal  is 
fed  chiefly  on  milk ;  for  when  the  beast  is  fed  on  grass 
for  on}y  one  or  two  weeks  before  being  slaughtered,  the 
sweetbreads  will  be  dark,  flabby,  and  tough,  whereas  if 
fed  on  milk  they  will  be  white,  firm  and  tender.  They 
spoil  very  quickly  and  cannot  be  kept  long,  even  on  ice. 
Sweetbreads  should  be  put  in  cold  water  as  soon  as  pur- 
chased, and  parboiled  before  being  used  in  any  other 
form.  They  were  formerly  thrown  away  as  worthless, 
but  the  demand  for  them  has  so  increased,  that  now  they 
are  considered  a  luxury  and  are  rarely  sold  in  the  larger 
cities  for  less  than  thirty  cents  a  pair,  while  in  the  winter 


MEATS.  171 

they  often  bring  as  much  as   a  dollar  and  a-half    a  pair. 
They  are  cheapest  in  the  late  spring  and  summer. 

TO    PREPARE    SWEETBREADS. 

Remove  the  pipes  and  membranes,  soak  the  sweet- 
breads for  one  hour  in  cold  water.  At  the  end  of  this 
time  place  them  in  slightly  salted,  boiling  water,  and 
boil  for  fifteen  minutes.  In  parboiling  sweetbreads 
always  use  a  porcelain  or  granite-ware  saucepan,  and 
also  use  a  silver  knife  for  cutting,  as  they  contain  a 
peculiar  phosphoric  acid  that  acts  upon  iron  or  tin  in 
such  a  way  as  to  entirely  destroy  their  own  flavor.  When 
they  have  boiled  fifteen  minutes,  place  them  in  cold 
water  for  five  minutes ;  then  take  them  up,  drain  and 
dry  them,  and  put  in  the  coldest  place  available  until 
needed  for  use. 

FRIED    SWEETBREADS. 

Parboil  as  directed,  and  cut  the  sweetbreads  in  even- 
sized  pieces;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  them 
first  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  or  cracker-crumbs, 
and  fry  in  hot  lard.  When  well  browned  on  both  sides, 
place  them  on  a  platter.  Turn  out  part  of  the  fat  in 
which  they  were  fried,  leaving  in  the  pan  only  a  table- 
spoonful.  Stir  into  this  hot  fat  a  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
and  stir  well  until  frothy ;  then  set  the  pan  back  a  little 
and  gradually  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  stirring  all  the 
time.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  about  two 
minutes.  Strain,  and  pour  over  the  sweetbreads.  Fried 
sweetbreads  are  served  in  many  ways.  They  are  often 
dished  with  green  peas,  cooked  rather  dry  and  placed  in 
a  mound  or  little  hill  in  the  center  of  the  platter,  the 


I  72  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

sweetbreads  being  laid  around.  Macaroni  may  be  boiled 
very  tender  and  laid  on  the  platter  and  the  sweetbreads 
placed  in  the  center,  the  pipes  of  the  macaroni  being  laid 
about  them  like  a  little  nest. 

BAKED    SWEETBREADS. 

One  pair  of  sweetbreads. 
One-third  of  a  medium-sized  onion. 
Four  slices  of  carrot. 
One  stalk  of  celery. 
One  sprig  of  parsley. 

Place  in  the  bottom  of  a  baking  dish  a  few  thin  slices 
of  salt  pork,  and  on  these  lay  the  sweetbreads,  which 
should  have  been  parboiled  as  directed.  Over  the  sweet- 
breads sprinkle  the  vegetables  chopped  fine,  and  bake  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  Cut  a  large  slice  of  bread 
into  an  oval  shape,  fry  it  brown  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
place  the  sweetbreads  on  it.  Serve  with  peas  or  with 
tomato  sauce  (see  index). 

STEWED    SWEETBREADS. 

Parboil  as  directed,  and  put  the  sweetbreads  in  a  very 
little  'water  to  stew.  When  tender,  add  for  each  sweet- 
bread a  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  a-quarter 
of  a  cupful  of  cream,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Let  them  simmer  for  five  minutes,  when  served  in  a  cov- 
ered dish  with  the  gravy. 

SWEETBREAD    CROQUETTES. 

Two  pairs  of  sweetbreads. 
One-half  pint  of  cream. 
One-third  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  parsley. 


MEATS.  173 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  mushrooms. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  eggs. 

Parboil  and  cool  the  sweetbreads  as  directed,  and  chop 
them  rather  fine ;  then  add  the  chopped  mushrooms,  and 
also  the  seasoning.  Put  the  cream  on  the  fire,  and  heat 
slowly.  Rub  the  flour  and  butter  well  together,  and  stir 
them  into  the  cream  when  it  boils,  stirring  until  smooth. 
Now  add  the  sweetbread  mixture,  stir  well,  and  simmer 
for  three  minutes.  Next  put  into  the  boiling  mass  the 
well  beaten  eggs,  stir  quickly,  and  remove  from  the 
fire  at  once.  Pour  this  mixture  on  a  platter  and  set  it 
away  to  cool,  allowing  at  least  two  hours  for  the  purpose. 
Shape  into  cylinders  with  the  hands,  roll  them  in  beaten 
egg  and  then  in  bread  or  cracker-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
plenty  of  hot  lard,  using  the  frying  basket,  if  you  have 
one.  Serve  with  white  sauce  or  Bechamel  sauce  (see 
index). 

MUTTON. 

In  England  mutton  is  always  hung  some  time  before 
being  used  and  is  always  delicious ;  but  if  hung  the  same 
length  of  time  in  American  air,  the  meat  would  be  simply 
unfit  to  eat.  This  is  not  generally  understood,  but  the 
fact  remains  the  same,  nevertheless. 

Mutton  has  a  strong  flavor  that  is  disagreeable  to 
many ;  it  is  said  to  be  caused  by  the  oil  from  the  wool, 
which  penetrates  the  fat.  In  chops  the  pink  -skin  above 
the  fat  should  always  be  removed.  The  caul  or  lining 


1 74  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

membrane  of  the  abdomen  is  wrapped  around  the  leg 
when  offered  for  sale  in  the  markets,  and  is  often  left  on 
in  roasting  to  help  baste  the  meat.  Some  cooks  affirm 
that  it  imparts  a  strong  flavor  to  the  meat  and,  therefore, 
remove  it  before  roasting,  basting  with  some  of  the  kid- 
ney fat,  if  necessary.  The  wisdom  or  consistency  of  this, 
however,  is  open  to  doubt.  The  best  roasts  are  the  leg, 
the  saddle  and  the  shoulder.  Mutton  is  generally  served 
rare,  but  this  is  a  matter  of  taste. 

BOILED   LEG   OF   MUTTON,    WITH   CAPER   SAUCE. 

Put  the  mutton  in  a  kettle,  pour  over  it  boiling  water 
sufficient  to  cover,  and  add  a  cupful  of  well  washed  rice, 
which  will  render  the  mutton  whiter  and  more  tender. 
When  the  water  boils,  skim  it  carefully,  and  allow  it  to 
boil  rapidly  fifteen  minutes ;  then  set  the  kettle  where 
the  boiling  will  be  gentle  but  constant,  and  allow  fifteen 
minutes  to  each  pound,  if  the  meat  is  desired  rare. 
Serve  with 

CAPER    SAUCE. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  capers. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter 
One  pint  of  boiling  water. 
One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  flour  and  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  boil- 
ing water.  Set  the  mixture  on  the  fire,  and  stir  it  con- 
stantly until  heated  to  the  boiling  point ;  then  put  in  sea- 
soning, lemon  juice  and  capers,  and  serve,  either  by 


MEATS.  175 

pouring  it  over  the   leg  of  mutton  or  else  in  a  separate 
dish,  as  may  be  preferred. 

Another  and  very  superior  way  of  finishing  a  leg  of 
mutton  is  to  salt  and  pepper  it  after  taking  it  from  the 
water,  dredge  well  with  flour,  place  it  on  a  meat-rack 
in  a  dripping-pan,  and  brown  half  an  hour  in  a  very  hot 
oven.  If  this  is  done,  but  ten  minutes  to  a  pound  will 
suffice  in  the  boiling. 

BAKED    LEG   OF    MUTTON. 

Wipe  the  mutton  with  a  damp  cloth,  sprinkle  it  with 
salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and  place  on  a  meat-rack  in  a 
roasting-pan ;  add  a  cupful  of  water  in  the  pan  and 
roast  in  a  hot  oven,  allowing  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound. 
Baste  every  ten  minutes,  adding  more  water,  if  needed, 
and  dredging  with  a  slight  sprinkle  of  flour,  salt  and 
pepper  at  each  basting.  When  done  serve  on  a  platter. 
Place  the  dripping-pan  upon  the  top  of  the  stove,  and 
drain  off  all  but  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  fat.  Add 
a  little  water,  and  thicken  with  a  small  quantity  of  flour 
wet  to  a  paste  in  cold  water,  adding  a  little  of  the  paste  at 
a  time  and  stirring  constantly  until  the  gravy  is  of  the 
desired  consistency.  Pour  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of  the 
gravy  on  the  meat  just  before  sending  it  to  table,  and 
place  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat.  Always  serve 
currant  or  some  other  tart  jelly  with  roast  mutton. 

MUTTON  a  la    Venison. 

Wash  a   saddle  of   mutton   inside  and  out  with  cider 
vinegar.     Do  not  wipe  it,  but  hang  up   to   dry  in  a  cold, 
.dry place — not  in  the  cellar  if  it  can   possibly  be  avoided, 
as  the  moisture  of  a  cellar  is  disastrous  to  meat. 


1 76  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

When  the  vinegar  has  dried  on  the  meat,  throw  a  clean 
cloth  about  it  to  keep  off  any  possible  dust.  Sponge 
in  this  way  every  other  day  for  two  weeks.  When 
ready  to  cook,  wipe  the  meat  with  a  cloth,  but  do  not 
wash  it.  Roast  the  mutton,  basting  for  the  first  hour 
with  butter  and  water,  and  afterward  with  the  gravy  in 
the  pan.  Add  to  the  gravy  just  before  serving  half  a  tea- 
cupful  of  walnut,  mushroom  or  tomato  catsup,  and  a  glass 
of  Madeira,  making  the  gravy  the  same  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  Mutton  prepared  in  this  way  strongly 
resembles  venison. 

STUFFED   AND   ROLLED   SHOULDER   OF    MUTTON. 

Have  the  butcher  remove  the  bones  from  a  shoulder 
piece.  Wipe  the  meat  carefully,  and  dredge  with  flour, 
after  sprinkling  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  the  follow- 
ing 

STUFFING. 

One  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  an  onion. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  dried  herbs. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Rub  the  butter  and  crumbs  well  together,  and  let  them 
stand  at  least  an  hour.  Chop  the  onion  fine,  pour  boil- 
ing water  over  it,  and  drain  off  almost  immediately. 
This  removes  the  rank  taste'of  the  onion.  Add  the  chop- 
ped onion  to  the  crumbs,  and  also  the  salt  and  pepper,  and 


MEATS.  177 

the  herbs,  if  there  are  any.  Spread  the  meat  with  this 
dressing,  roll  it  up,  and  skewer  it  together,  or  else  tie  it 
around  with  clean  twine  if  there  are  no  skewers.  Put 
half  a  pint  of  water  in  the  bottom  of  the  baking  pan,  and, 
placing  the  meat  on  a  rack  (see  "  Kitchen  Utensils  "),  roast 
the  same  as  directed  for  a  baked  leg  of  mutton,  basting 
frequently.  Allow  about  twenty  minutes  to  a  pound  in 
baking  with  a  stuffing. 

MUTTON    STEW. 

Three  pounds  of  shoulder  of  mutton. 

One-half  pound  of  _salt  pork. 

One  large  onion. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

The  inferior  parts  of  the  sheep  will  do  well  for  this 
dish,  which  makes  an  economical  dinner.  Trim  the 
mutton  of  every  particle  of  fat,  and  cut  it  into  pieces  half 
the  size  of  a  tea-cup ;  nearly  cover  with  hot  water,  place 
it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  simmer  slowly,  closely  covered,  for 
half  an  hour.  Then  add  the  pork  and  onion,  season  to 
taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  slowly  until  the  meat 
is  tender.  Lift  the  meat  out  with  a  skimmer,  and  place 
it  on  the  serving  dish ;  and  add  the  milk  to  the  gravy  in 
the  kettle.  When  the  gravy  is  hot,  add  the  flour  stirred  to 
a  paste  with  a  little  cold  milk.  When  these  are  well  cooked 
together,  taste  the  gravy,  and  add  more  seasoning  if  nec- 
essary ;  then  pour  it  over  the  mutton,  and  serve.  If  green 
corn  is  in  season,  add  the  grains  from  six  ears  an 
hour  before  the  stew  is  done. 


178  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

SCALLOPED     MUTTON. 

One  pint  of  cold,  chopped  meat. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  water. 

Chop  the  meat  rather  coarsely,  and  add  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Heat  the  butter,  and  stir  in  the  flour  ;  when 
browned  darkly,  add  the  water,  and  season  the  gravy 
thus  made  with  salt  and  pepper.  Arrange  alternate 
layers  of  meat  and  gravy  in  a  baking  dish,  using  three 
layers  of  gravy  and  two  of  the  mutton,  thus  ending  with 
gravy.  Cover  the  top  with  a  light  sprinkling  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  This 
dish  may  be  prepared  the  day  before,  if  needed  for  break- 
fast, and  set  in  a  cold  place. 

FRENCH    CHOPS. 

These  are  cut  from  the  ribs  and  are  trimmed  by  the 
butcher,  who  removes  all  the  fat  and  scrapes  the  bone 
clean  for  a  little  distance  from  the  end.  Broil  over 
a  quick  fire,  adding  salt,  pepper  and  butter  before 
serving.  These  chops  may  also  be  cooked  by  frying,  in 
which  case  they  are  first  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  dipped  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  cracker-crumbs. 
French  chops  may  be  prettily  served  by  making  a  mound 
of  mashed  potatoes  and  laying  the  chops  around  it,  with 
the  bone  end  upward  and  resting  upon  the  potatoes. 
These  chops  are  generally  served  with  peas. 


ME  A  TS.  1 79 

MUTTON    CUTLETS,    WITH    SPANISH    SAUCE. 

Have  the  cutlets  cut  from  the  ribs,  one  inch  and  a-half 
thick,  and  trimmed  like  French  chops.  With  a  sharp 
knife  split  each  chop  in  two  without  separating  the  meat 
from  the  bone.  Then  make  the  following  filling  for  six 
chops : 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  mushrooms. 

One  table-spoonful  of  choppedP  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Three  table-spoonful  of  water  or  stock. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  parsley. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-fifth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cook  the  butter  and  onion  together  for  five  minutes, 
add  the  mushrooms  and  seasoning,  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes longer.  Add  the  flour,  and  stir  well ;  then  put  in 
the  water,  and  cook  three  minutes.  Turn  the  filling  out 
on  a  plate  and  when  cool,  spread  it  inside  the  chops,  pres- 
sing them  lightly  together. 

Broil  for  eight  minutes  over  a  clear  fire,  arrange  on  a 
warm  platter,  and  pour  over  them  the 

SPANISH    SAUCE. 

One  and  a-quarter  pints  of  stock. 

One  ounce  of  lean  ham. 

One  bay-leaf. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  gelatine. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  carrot. 


180  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  celery. 
One  sprig  of  parsley. 
Two  cloves. 
A  bit  of  mace. 
Salt  and  pepper. 

Soak  the  gelatine  an  hour  in  a  little  of  the  stock ; 
also  cook  the  butter  and  the  vegetables  together  for  ten 
minutes,  being  careful  to  avoid  burning;  then  add  the 
flour,  and  when  browc,  draw  the  pan  back,  gradually  add 
the  stock,  and  boil  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 

Add  the  herbs  and  spice,  and  place  the  vessel  where 
the  sauce  will  simmer  for  two  hours.  Add  the  gelatine  at 
the  end  of  that  time,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes.  Skim  the 
fat  off  and  strain,  when  it  is  ready  to  pour  on  the  cutlets. 
Cutlets  prepared  in  this  way  are  considered  one  of  the 
most  fashionable  entrees  for  company  dinners, 

MUTTON  CROQUETTES  (AN  Entree). 

One  pint  of  chopped  meat. 
One  cupful  of  milk  or  cream. 
Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
One-half  of  a  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One-half  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Chop  the  meat  rather  fine,  and  add  the  salt,  lemon- 
juice  and  pepper.  Put  the  milk  in  a  small  frying-pan. 
Stir  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  cream,  and  when  the  milk 
boils,  stir  in  the  mixture  slowly.  Coo"k  one  minute,  stir- 
ring all  the  time  ;  then  add  the  chopped  meat,  and  let  all 
boil  together  three  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  them, 


ME  A  TS.  1 8 1 

stirring  thoroughly,  and  remove  from  the  fire  at  once  ; 
turn  out  the  whole  upon  a  platter  to  cool.  Sprinkle  a 
board  lightly  with  crumbs  ;  and  when  the  mixture  is  cool, 
take  a  spoonful  in  the  hands,  shape  it  to  a  cylindrical 
form,  and  roll  it  lightly  upon  the  board.  Continue  thus 
until  all  the  croquettes  have  been  formed,  being  careful  to 
roll  each  one  in  the  crumbs.  When  all  are  done,  dip 
each  in  beaten  egg  and  again  in  crumbs,  and  fry  in  a  fry- 
ing-basket.  The  croquettes  should  brown  in  two  minutes 
if  cooked  in  this  way.  Those  who  have  not  a  frying-bas- 
ket  may  use  a  frying-pan,  cooking  the  croquettes  until 
they  are  a  nice  brown  color.  The  fat  must  be  very 
hot  or  the  croquettes  will  break.  If  this  dish  should  be 
desired  for  breakfast,  the  croquettes  may  be  shaped  the 
day  before  and  kept  in  a  cool  place,  being  dipped  in  the 
egg  and  the  second  covering  of  crumbs  in  the  morning. 
If  onion  is  liked,  a  tea-spoonful  of  onion  juice  may  be 
added  with  the  other  seasoning. 

MUTTON   AND   OYSTER    SAUSAGES. 

One  pound  of  rare  cooked  meat. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One- half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-third  pound  of  beef  suet. 

One  pint  of  oysters. 

One-half  a  pint  (scant)  of  bread-crumbs. 

Two  eggs. 

One  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  herbs. 

Chop  the  meat  very  fine,  and  add  the  seasoning,  which 
may  be  more  than  that  given  above,  a  bit  of  celery,  pars- 
ley and  any  herbs  available  being  proper.  Chop  the  suet 


1 82  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

very  fine,  and  also  the  oysters ;  then  mix  all  well 
together,  form  into  small  balls,  and  fry.  A  couple  of 
anchovies  may  be  added  to  the  seasoning. 

LAMB. 

The  best  roasts  are  the  fore  and  hind  quarters.  Lamb 
will  not  keep  like  mutton,  and  it  should  be  used  not 
longer  than  three  days  after  killing.  Like  veal,  it  should 
be  thoroughly  cooked. 

ROAST    LAMB,    WITH    MINT   SAUCE. 

If  the  roast  is  from  the  breast,  make  a  stuffing  as 
directed  for  a  rolled  shoulder  of  mutton  on  page  176,  and 
fill  the  place  made  for  the  stuffing.  Wipe  the  meat, 
dredge  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  place  a  cupful  of 
water  in  the  roasting-pan,  and  roast  the  meat  on  a  rack, 
basting  often  and  allowing  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound. 
Serve  hot  on  a  platter.  Accompanying  the  roast  in  a 
separate  dish  will  be  the 

MINT   SAUCE. 

Pick  the  leaves  from  the  mint  stalks  until  there  is  half 
a  pint.  Wash  the  leaves,  drain  well,  and  place  them 
in  an  earthenware  bowl.  Then,  using  a  knife  and 
fork,  cut  them  into  very  small  pieces.  Do  not  use  a 
wooden  bowl,  for  half  of  the  mint  oil  will  be  absorbed  by 
the  wood.  When  the  mint  is  well  chopped,  stir  in  a 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  mix  thoroughly,  and  pour  in  half 
a  pint  of  hot  vinegar.  Cover  tightly,  and  serve  after 
three  minutes.  Some  cooks  pour  the  vinegar  on  cold, 
and  serve  the  same  after  it  has  stood  one  hour.  This  is 
a  matter  of  taste. 


MEATS.  183 

LAMB   CHOPS. 

These  are  broiled  the  same  as  French  chops.  When 
intended  to  be  served  at  a  luncheon  as  an  entrke,  they  are 
broiled  in  paper  cases,  in  the  following  manner:  Mold 
and  cut  sheets  of  thick  white  writing-paper,  so  that  when 
opened  they  will  be  heart-shaped,  making  each  sheet 
nine  by  four  and  a-half  inches  in  size.  Dip  the  cases  in 
olive  oil  or  melted  butter,  being  careful  that  no  part  re- 
mains unoiled.  Have  the  chops  cut  from  the  ribs  and 
prepared  the  same  as  French  chops.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  dip  them  in  melted  butter.  Place 
each  chop  on  one  side  of  a  paper,  with  the  bone  toward 
the  center,  fold  the  paper  together,  and  roll  the  edges  to 
keep  them  closed.  Broil  eight  minutes  over  a  moderate 
fire.  Serve  on  a  hot  dish  in  the  papers  in  which  they 
were  broiled.  The  success  of  paper  broiling  lies  in  get- 
ting every  part  of  the  paper  well  oiled.  The  broiler 
should  be  turned  almost  constantly  while  the  chops  are 
cooking. 

BROILED    BREAST   OF    LAMB. 

This  is  a  very  delicious  dish,  but  the  broiling  must 
be  done  carefully.  The  fire  should  not  be  too  bright 
or  the  meat  will  soon  scorch.  Lay  the  inside  of  the 
meat  toward  the  fire  first  and  broil  very  moderately, 
turning  the  meat  often.  When  done,  butter  slightly,  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper.  The  breast  of  lamb  is  sold 
in  most  markets  with  the  fore-leg  attached ;  this  should 
be  cut  off  before  the  piece  is  broiled,  for,  being  so  thick 
in  comparison  with  the  rest  of  the  piece,  it  is  difficult 
to  cook  it  sufficiently.  A  stew  may  be  made  of  the  leg 
piece,  or  it  may  go  with  other  pieces  to  make  soup. 


1 84  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

PORK. 

This  is  an  unwholesome  meat,  and  is  very  undesirable 
for  children  and  people  with  weak  digestions.  It  should 
never  be  seen  on  the  table,  except  in  cold  weather,  unless, 
of  course,  in  the  form  of  smoked  meat  (ham  or  bacon). 
Salt  pork,  bacon  and  ham  are  less  objectionable  than 
fresh  pork ;  in  fact,  salt  pork  and  bacon  should  always  be 
kept  at  hand  in  the  kitchen  to  use  in  cooking  other  meats. 
In  the  country  remote  from  the  markets  it  is  next  to  im- 
possible even  in  summer  for  the  housekeeper  to  pro- 
vide for  the  table  without  a  generous  supply  of  bacon, 
ham  and  salt  pork;  but  the  danger  is  less  in  these 
homes,  for  the  animals  are  fed  on  corn,  and  generally  are 
so  cared  for  that  diseased  meat  is  almost  an  impossi- 
bility. 

There  is  no  part  of  the  pig  that  is  not  used ;  conse- 
quently to  the  poor  man  he  is  a  very  profitable  animal. 
Pork  requires  a  great  deal  of  cooking,  for  when  under- 
done the  danger  from  eating  it  is  very  much  increased. 

ROAST   LITTLE   PIG. 

The  pig  should  be  about  three  weeks  old.  The 
butcher  draws  and  scrapes  it,  but  the  cook  must  clean  it. 
Cover  the  point  of  a  wooden  skewer  with  a  piece  of  soft 
cloth,  and  work  the  -skewer  into  the  ears  to  clean  them. 
Cleanse  the  nostrils  in  the  same  way,  and  also  the  vent 
near  the  tail.  Scrape  the  tongue,  lips  and  gums  with  a 
sharp  knife,  wipe  them  with  a  soft  cloth,  and  take  out  the 
eyes.  Wash  the  pig  well  with  cold  water,  wipe  dry,  and 
rub  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  on  the  inside  of  the  pig. 
Make  the  following 


MEATS.  185 

STUFFING   FOR   ROAST   PIG. 

Three  pints  of  bread-crumbs. 
Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  table-spoonful  of  powdered  sage. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  chopped  onion. 

Mix  well  together  first  rubbing  the  butter  into  the 
crumbs,  and  then  adding  the  seasoning;  and  fill  the  body 
with  the  stuffing.  Press  the  fore-feet  forward  and  the 
hind-feet  backward,  and  skewer  them  to  position.  Force 
the  mouth  open,  and  place  a  small  block  of  wood  between 
the  teeth.  Butter  two  sheets  of  paper  and  pin  them 
about  the  ears.  Sprinkle  the  pig  with  salt,  rub  it  all  over 
with  soft  butter,  and  dredge  with  flour.  Then  place  it 
in  the  roasting-pan,  and  cook  at  least  three  hours  and 
a-half,  basting  every  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  with  butter 
or  salad  oil,  and  sprinkling  lightly  with  salt  and  flour  after 
each  basting.  Water  should  not  be  used,  if  the  surface 
of  the  meat  is  desired  crisp.  Remove  the  paper  from  the 
ears  during  the  last  half  hour.  When  ready  to  serve,  re- 
move the  block  from  the  mouth,  inserting  in  its  place  a 
small  ear  of  corn  or  a  small  lemon.  Serve  apple  sauce 
with  this  dish.  In  carving  a  roast  pig,  the  head  is  cut 
off  first,  the  meat  split  down  the  back,  the  hams  and 
shoulders  taken  off  and  the  ribs  separated.  A  portion  of 
the  stuffing  is  served  to  each  person. 

ROAST   LEG   OF    PORK. 

The  pieces  used  for  roasting  are  the  spare-rib,  the 
chine  or  loin,  the  leg  and  the  shoulder.  If  the  leg  is  to 
be  roasted,  score  the  skin  in  squares,  or  in  parallel  lines 


1 86  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

running  from  side  to  side.  Put  very  little  water  in  the 
pan  under  the  meat,  sprinkle  the  latter  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, dredge  lightly  with  flour,  and  roast  twenty-five  min- 
utes to  a  pound.  Pour  off  all  but  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  fat.  Place  the  pan  on  top  of  the  stove,  and  when 
hot,  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Cook  one  min- 
ute, and  add  a  pint  of  hot  water,  stirring  constantly.  Let 
the  gravy  cook  three  minutes,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Those  who  do  not  object  to  a  hint  of  onion  in 
flavoring  will  find  it  a  great  addition  to  place  a  small 
onion  in  the  pan  while  the  meat  is  roasting.  This,  of 
course,  is  removed  before  the  gravy  is  made ;  but  it  takes 
off  the  extreme  "  pig  "  flavor  that  is  so  disagreeable  and 
noticeable  in  old  pork. 

ROAST   LOIN    OR    SHOULDER. 

The  loin  and  the  shoulder  are  roasted  the  same  as  the 
leg,  twenty  minutes  to  a  pound  being  allowed  for  the  loin 
and  twenty-five  minutes  for  the  shoulder. 

ROAST    SPARE-RIB. 

Trim  off  the  ends  neatly,  crack  the  ribs  across  the  mid- 
dle, and  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  the  meat 
is  first  put  in  to  roast  cover  it  with  greased  paper  until 
half  done ;  then  remove  the  paper  and  dredge  with  flour. 
In  ten  minutes  baste  once  with  butter  and  afterward 
every  fifteen  minutes  with  the  gravy.  This  is  a  necessity, 
for  the  spare-rib  is  a  very  dry  piece.  Just  before  taking 
the  pork  from  the  oven,  strew  its  surface  with  bread- 
crumbs seasoned  with  a  little  powdered  sage,  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  a  bit  of  onion  minced  as  fine  as  possible.  Cook 
five  minutes,  and  baste  once  more.  Make  the  gravy  as 


ME  A  TS.  1 87 

directed  for  a  roast  leg  of  pork;  strain,  and  pour  it  over 
the  meat  or  serve  in  a  gravy  dish,  as  may  be  preferred. 
Spare-ribs  may  be  filled  with  the  stuffing  given  for  a  roast 
little  pig,  half  the  quantity  specified  being  used.  The  ribs 
are  cracked  crosswise  the  entire  length  in  two  places,  and 
the  stuffing  is  placed  in  the  center  and  the  two  ends 
folded  over  and  tied. 

BROILED    PORK    STEAK. 

When  pork  is  to  be  broiled,  it  should  be  cut  very  thin 
indeed,  and  salted  and  peppered.  Many  cooks  wrap 
greased  paper  around  the  meat. 

The  broiling  of  pork  is  a  delicate  operation,  since  the 
meat  must  be  so  thoroughly  cooked. 

FRIED    PORK   CHOPS. 

Place  a  table-spoonful  of  drippings  in  a  frying-pan. 
Dust  the  chops  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and  fry  slowly 
until  of  a  fine  brown.  Thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  as 
directed  for  the  roasts,  and  pour  it  over  the  meat. 

PORK    TENDERLOINS. 

These  are  the  choicest  cuts  of  the  pork  and  correspond 
to  the  fillet  of  beef.  They  are  solid  meat,  and  although 
rather  high-priced,  are  not  as  expensive  as  would  at  first 
appear,  since  there  is  no  bone  or  waste  of  any  kind. 
They  are  split  lengthwise  and  fried  the  same  as  pork 
chops. 

FRIED    SALT    PORK,    WITH    CREAM    GRAVY. 

.  Cut    the   slices   thin,   and  place   them    in   cold  water. 
After   they  have   soaked    an   hour,    drain  well   and   dry 


1 88  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

them  on  a  napkin.  Heat  the  frying-pan  very  hot.  Place 
half  a  cupful  of  flour  on  a  plate,  and,  dipping  each  piece 
of  meat  in  it,  fry  until  crisp.  Drain  off  all  but  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  fat  and  stir  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  into  that  remaining  in  the  pan.  Cook  for  two 
minutes,  stirring  well ;  then  draw  the  pan  back  on  the 
range,  and  slowly  add  a  pint  of  milk.  When  the  gravy 
is  smooth  and  well  mixed  together,  cook  only  a  min- 
ute, and  add  pepper,  and  salt  also  if  needed.  Turn  the 
gravy  over  the  meat,  and  serve.  This  is  the  most  deli- 
cious way  of  preparing  salt  pork  and  makes  a  very  satis- 
factory breakfast  dish. 

SOUSE,    OR   PIGS'    FEET. 

» 

Clean  the  feet  carefully,  and  pour  over  them  hot  water 
sufficient  to  cover.  Boil  slowly  until  the  meat  will  sepa- 
rate from  the  bones ;  then  take  them  up  carefully  on  a 
skimmer,  and  place  them  in  a  stone  jar,  taking  out  the 
largest  bones.  Set  the  water  aside  in  a  cool  place  to  be 
used  later. 

Allow  a  quart  of  strong  vinegar  to  four  good-sized 
feet  and  uppers  (which  are  always  sold  with  the  feet). 
Place  the  vinegar  on  the  fire,  adding 

Four  bay-leaves. 

One  table-spoonful  of  whole  cloves. 
One  table-spoonful  of  broken  cinnamon. 
One-quarter  of  a  tea-cupful  of  salt. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  pepper. 
One-half  an  onion,  cut  in  eighths. 
One  blade  of  mace. 

Steep  all  these  slowly  in  the  vinegar  for  forty-five  min- 
utes, being  careful  that  the  vinegar  does  not  boil  rapidly 


MEATS.  189 

at  any  time.  Remove  from  the  water  in  which  the  feet 
were  boiled  all  the  fat,  which  by  this  time  will  have 
formed  in  a  cake  on  the  top,  and  save  it  for  cooking 
purposes.  Place  a  quart  of  the  water  in  the  vinegar, 
unless  the  latter  is  not  very  strong,  in  which  case  less 
water  must  be  added,  so  that  the  vinegar  will  not  become 
too  much  diluted.  Strain  the  liquid  through  a  sieve  to 
remove  the  spice,  etc.,  and  pour  it  over  the  meat  in  the 
jar,  helping  it  through  the  meat  with  a  knife  and  fork, 
until  the  whole  is  thoroughly  mixed  together.  Set  the 
jar  in  a  cold  place  for  two  days,  when  the  souse  will  be 
ready  for  use.  This  preparation  is  particularly  nice  for  a 
home  luncheon  or  tea  and  should  be  a  thick,  jelly-like 
mass  when  properly  prepared. 

PIGS'    FEET,    FRIED. 

Split  the  feet  through  the  middle  lengthwise,  and  boil 
them  until  tender,  but  not  so  much  that  the  meat  will 
separate  from  the  bones.  After  draining  well,  dip 
each  piece  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  rolled  cracker- 
crumbs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  in  a  hot 
frying-pan,  using  plenty  of  fat.  Drain  each  piece  thor- 
oughly so  there  will  not  be  a  drop  of  fat  on  the  serving 
dish  when  sent  to  table. 

HEAD-CHEESE. 

This  is  generally  made  of  the  head,  ears  and  tongue, 
but  the  head  alone  may  be  used,  if  desired.  Clean  the 
meat  very  carefully,  this  part  of  the  work  being  most  par- 
ticular and  not  to  be  hurried.  Boil  the  meat  and  bones 
in  salted  water  until  the  former  is  very  tender.  Skim  out 
the  head,  place  it  in  a  colander  to  drain,  and  remove  all 


1 90  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  bones  with  a  knife.  Cut  the  ears  rather  fine,  and 
place  them  with  the  head  meat.  Season  the  whole  with 
salt,  pepper,  sage,  sweet  marjoram  and  any  other  herbs 
that  may  be  available,  adding  a  little  powdered  cloves. 
Mix  the  mass  well  together,  taste  to  see  if  properly 
seasoned,  and  pack  it  tightly  in  a  bowl,  interspersing  the 
layers  of  meat  with  slices  of  the  boiled  tongue.  Press 
the  meat  into  a  compact  shape,  and  cover  it  with  a  plate 
upon  which  is  placed  a  sufficiently  heavy  weight.  The 
head-cheese  will  be  ready  to  use  in  two  or  three  days. 
Cut  it  in  thin  slices,  and  serve  with  vinegar,  and  mustard 
if  liked ;  or  it  may  be  cut  in  slices  and  fried  the  same  as 
pig's  feet,  being  first  dipped  in  egg  and  cracker-crumbs. 
The  latter  mode  of  preparing  produces  a  very  pleasant 
breakfast  dish. 

SCRAPPLE. 

Many  cities  or  parts  of  the  country  have  some  particu- 
lar dish  for  which  they  are  noted,  and  that  peculiar  to 
Philadelphia  is  known  as  "  scrapple,"  which  is  brought  to 
market  in  large  quantities  and  sold  most  reasonably.  It 
is  made  in  this  way:  Scrape  and  thoroughly  clean  a 
hog's  head;  then  split  it,  and  take  out  the  eyes  and 
brain.  The  butcher  will,  of  course,  do  this  when 
directed.  Clean  the  ears  also,  and  scrape  and  scald  them 
well.  Put  all  on  to  boil  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  sim- 
mer gently  for  four  hours,  or  until  the  bones  will  easily 
slip  from  the  meat.  Lift  out  the  meat  and  bones  into  a 
colander,  remove  the  bones,  and  chop  the  meat  fine. 
Skim  off  every  particle  of  grease  from  the  water  in  which 
the  meat  was  boiled,  and  return  the  chopped  meat  to  the 
kettle  and  water.  Season  highly  with  pepper  and  salt 


MEATS.  191 

and  such  powdered  herbs  as  may  be  preferred.  Now 
take  a  large  wooden  spoon  or  paddle  and  stir  constantly, 
meanwhile  adding  enough  com  meal  and  buckwheat  flour, 
in  equal  quantities,  to  make  a  soft  mush.  Gook  slowly 
one  hour,  stirring  frequently,  as  the  mush  will  scorch 
easily.  Pour  the  mixture  into  dishes  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place,  slicing  it  as  needed.  Sometimes  part  or  all  of 
wheat  middlings  is  used  in  place  of  the  corn  meal  and 
buckwheat  nour,  and  again  corn  meal  or  buckwheat 
Hour  alone  is  used. 

TO    COOK    SCRAPPLE. 

Cut  it  into  rather  thin  slices,  dip  each  slice  in  flour, 
and  fry  until  a  fine  brown.  Drain  well  before  serving. 

PORK    SAUSAGE. 

Six  pounds  of  lean  fresh  pork. 
Three  pounds  of  fat  fresh  pork. 
Twelve  tea-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sage. 
Six  tea-spoonfuls  of  black  pepper. 
Six  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  powdered  mace. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  powdered  cloves. 
One  grated  nutmeg. 

Grind  the  meat  in  a  sausage  mill.  Most  butchers  have 
mills  of  this  kind  and  will  do  the  work  at  small  cost. 
Mix  the  seasoning  thoroughly  with  the  meat,  using  the 
hands  for  mixing.  The  spices  need  not  be  added,  if  not 
liked  ;  but  they  help  to  preserve  the  meat.  If  the  sausage 
is  for  immediate  use,  they  may  be  omitted.  A  safe  rule 
to  follow  in  seasoning  a  small  quantity  of  sausage  meat  is 
to  allow  to  each  pound  the  following  : 


1 92  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sifted  sage. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

There  are  many  ways  of  putting  away  sausage  meat. 
If  it  is  to  be  kept  a  long  time,  pack  it  in  a  stone  jar,  and 
pour  melted  lard  on  top ;  the  meat  will  keep  a  very  long 
time  if  sealed  in  this  way,  many  country  housekeepers 
preserving  it  thus  from  autumn  until  the  following 
summer.  The  meat  may  also  be  kept  in  cotton  bags. 
Use  strong  cotton  for  the  bags,  making  each  one  a  yard 
long  and  four  inches  wide.  Dip  them  in  strong  salt  and 
water,  and  let  them  dry  before  rilling.  Crowd  the  meat 
closely  into  the  bags,  pressing  it  in  with  a  pestle  or  a 
potato  masher.  When  wanted  for  use,  turn  the  end  of 
the  bag  back,  cut  off  the  meat  in  half-inch  slices,  and  fry 
brown.  Sausage  is  ordinarily  put  away  in  "  casings " 
made  from  the  intestines. 

TO   CLEAN    THE    "  CASINGS." 

Empty  them,  turn  them  inside  out  and  wash  thor- 
oughly ;  then  let  them  soak  in  salted  water  for  two  days. 
Wash  them  again,  cut  into  convenient  lengths,  and  scrape 
them  on  a  board  with  a  blunt  knife,  first  on  one  side, 
then  on  the  other.  When  well  scraped,  wash  them  again, 
tie  up  one  end  of  each  length,  insert  a  quill  in  the  other 
end,  and  fill  them  with  air  by  blowing  through  the  quills. 
If  white  and  clear,  they  are  clean,  but  if  any  thick  spots 
appear,  they  must  be  scraped  again.  Throw  the  casings 
into  cold,  salted  water  until  wanted. 

TO    COOK    SAUSAGE. 

When  cooking  sausage  in  casings,  prick  the  skins  with 
a  sharp  steel  fork  to  prevent  their  bursting.  If  cooking 


MEATS.  193 

it  in  bulk,  shape  the  sausage  into  balls  with  the  hands. 
Place  it  in  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  fry  until  brown,  adding 
no  fat,  as  there  will  generally  be  plenty  in  the  meat.  Re- 
move the  sausage,  when  done,  to  a  platter,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  dry  flour  to  the  fat  in  the  pan,  and  cook  one 
minute,  stirring  all  the  time ;  then  gradually  add  a  cup- 
ful of  milk,  still  stirring.  When  the  gravy  is  boiling  and 
is  of  a  creamy  consistency,  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste, 
pour  the  gravy  over  the  sausage,  and  serve. 

TO   SALT    DOWN    OR    PICKLE    PORK. 

The  hams,  shoulders,  chines  and  middlings  are  the 
parts  of  the  pig  usually  pickled.  This  should  be  done  as 
soon  as  possible  after  the  meat  is  cold,  and  should  not  be 
delayed  more  than  twenty-four  hours  at  the  very  longest. 
The  following  is  the  proportion  of  pickle  allowed  to  fifty 
pounds  of  pork : 

Two  and  a-half  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 
Two  ounces  of  saltpetre. 
Nine  gallons  of  water. 
Salt  to  make  a  brine. 

Mix  the  sugar  and  saltpetre  with  the  water,  and  grad- 
ually add  Liverpool  salt  until  the  brine  will  float  an  egg. 
Boil  for  ten  minutes,  skim  off  all  the  scum  that  rises,  and 
set  aside  to  cool.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  packing  bar- 
rel with  coarse  salt,  and  pack  the  pork  closely  in  it,  with 
the  rind  next  to  the  sides  of  the  barrel,  and  covering  each 
layer  with  salt.  When  all  the  pork  has  been  packed, 
pour  the  cold  brine  over  it,  place  a  round  board  cut  a  lit- 
tle smaller  than  the  barrel  on  top  of  the  meat,  and  upon 
it  lay  a  heavy  weight  to  keep  it  beneath  the  surface.  If 
13 


194  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

at  any  time  the  brine  froths  or  looks  red,  it  should  be 
turned  off,  scalded  again  and  more  salt  added ;  as  soon 
as  cold  it  should  be  returned  to  the  meat. 

TO   CURE    HAMS. 

The  hams  may  be  pickled  with  the  rest  of  the  pork,  as 
above  directed ;  and  after  remaining  in  the  brine  sixteen 
days,  should  be  removed  and  washed  clean  of  salt. 
They  are  then  ready  to  be  smoked.  Another  method  of 
curing  ham  is  to  allow  to  fifty  pounds  of  meat 

Two  pounds  of  fine  salt. 

One  ounce  of  powdered  saltpetre. 

Two  ounces  of  brown  sugar. 

Place  the  meat  on  a  board  or  table  in  the  cellar,  with 
the  skin  side  down.  Mix  the  salt,  sugar  and  saltpetre 
well  together,  and  rub  each  ham  all  over  with  this  mix- 
ture, putting  a  little  of  it  in  the  hock  end  around  the 
bone.  Rub  until  the  meat  will  absorb  no  more.  Should 
there  be  any  of  the  mixture  left,  use  it  on  the  meat  at  the 
end  of  a  week,  rubbing  it  in  as  before.  Let  the  hams  re- 
main in  this  condition  for  sixteen  days,  when  they  are 
ready  to  be  smoked. 

TO    SMOKE    HAMS. 

Wet  the  hams  with  clean  water,  and  dip  them,  while 
wet,  in  dry  bran,  forming  as  thick  a  coat  as  possible  over 
the  meat.  Sawdust  is  sometimes  used,  but  bran  is  much 
to  be  preferred.  The  object  of  thus  using  the  bran  is  to 
form  a  crust  that  will  prevent  the  evaporation  of  the 
juices.  Hang  the  hams  in  the  smoke-house,  with  the 
hock  end  down.  Keep  up  a  good  smoke  continually, 


MEATS.  195 

smothering  the  fire  with  sawdust,  and  taking  care  that 
the  house  does  not  become  hot  at  any  time.  Meat 
should  be  smoked  at  least  four  weeks,  but  it  is  seldom 
allowed  to  hang  as  long  as  that.  Should  it  be  desired  to 
keep  the  hams  until  warm  weather,  there  are  many  ways 
in  which  they  may  be  put  away.  They  are  sometimes 
simply  hung  on  hooks  in  a  cool  place,  but  it  is  undoubt- 
edly much  better  to  encase  them  in  covers,  as  these  are 
an  effectual  protection  against  insects.  Dust  cayenne 
pepper  around  the  bones,  and  wrap  the  hams  closely  in 
brown  paper  and  then  with  coarse  muslin  shaped  to  fit 
them  exactly,  stitching  the  muslin  tightly  to  position. 
Whitewash  the  muslin  cloth,  and  hang  the  hams  in  a  cool, 
dark,  dry  place. 

TO    BOIL   A    HAM. 

Wash  the  ham  well,  and,  if  very  salt,  soak  it  over 
night  in  clear  water.  Ascertain  its  weight,  and  allow 
fifteen  minutes  of  cooking  to  every  pound.  Place  the 
ham  in  a  large  kettle  on  the  stove,  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  and  when  the  water  boils,  set  the  kettle  back 
where  the  ham  will  gently  simmer.  When  it  has  boiled 
in  this  way  for  one  hour,  turn  off  the  water  and  add  fresh 
boiling  water.  By  thus  changing  the  water  the  rank 
taste  of  the  smoke  is  destroyed.  For  every  ten  pounds 
of  meat  add  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  to  the  second  water, 
and  then  boil  the  remainder  of  the  time  required.  When 
clone,  remove  the  ham,  but  do  not  skin  it  until  cold,  nor 
cut  it  until  it  has  been  cooked  twenty-four  hours,  unless 
it  is  to  be  eaten  hot  ;  in  that  case  it  should  be  skinned  as 
soon  as  taken  from  the  water,  and  all  the  black  rind  and 
discolored  portions  removed.  In  cooking  half  a  ham, 


1 96  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

or  one  that  has  been  cut,  the  juices  will  be  better 
retained  if  the  cut  side  is  kept  upward  in  the  kettle. 
This  may  be  easily  done  by  propping  up  the  meat  with 
a  clean  stone  placed  on  each  side. 

There  are  many  ways  of  finishing  boiled  hams  that  are 
to  be  served  whole.  The  method  most  commonly  pur- 
sued is  to  sprinkle  grated  bread-crumbs  over  the  ham  and 
brown  them  in  a  quick  oven.  Another  desirable  mode  is 
to  brush  the  ham  with  beaten  egg,  cover  it  with  bread- 
crumbs and  brown  nicely;  or  the  ham,  after  being 
skinned,  may  be  dusted  with  black  pepper  sifted  on  in 
circles.  The  latter  plan  produces  an  attractive  looking 
dish.  One  thing  must,  however,  be  borne  in  mind — that 
no  matter  how  well  a  ham  is  cooked,  it  will  prove  an  utter 
failure  if  not  cut  in  thin  slices  for  serving. 

FRIED  HAM,  WITH  CREAM"  GRAVY. 

Properly  cured  ham  will  not  need  freshening;  but 
should  the  ham  be  too  salt,  place  it  in  a  frying-pan,  cover 
with  cold  water,  and  set  the  pan  on  the  range  in  a  mild 
heat;  and  when  the  steam  commences  to  rise,  pour  off 
the  water,  and  add  more  cold  water.  As  soon  as  this 
water  steams  lift  out  the  slice  of  meat  and  drain  it  well 
before  frying.  Two  waters  should  always  be  sufficient  to 
freshen  the  saltest  piece  of  ham.  Heat  the  pan  for  frying, 
and  when  very  hot,  cook  the  meat  without  the  addition 
of  fat,  unless  the  ham  is  exceptionally  lean,  when  a 
spoonful  of  pork  drippings  should  be  used.  When  the 
ham  is  nicely  browned,  place  it  on  a  platter,  and  add  a 
cupful  of  milk  to  the  fat  in  the  pan.  When  this  boils, 
thicken  it  to  a  cream  with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  wet 
to  a  smooth  paste  in  a  little  milk,  adding  pepper  to  sea- 


MEATS.  197 

son  ;  and  turn  the  gravy  over  the  ham.  A  more  simple 
gravy  is  made  by  adding  a  little  hot  water  to  the  fat,  etc., 
in  the  pan  and  pouring  this  over  the  meat. 

HAM    SANDWICHES. 

Chop  fine  half  a  pound  of  ham,  and  season  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  olive  oil,  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice  and  a  little  pepper  and  made  mustard.  Butter  the 
bread  on  the  loaf  before  cutting  it ;  cut  the  slices  thinly, 
and  spread  the  ham  between  them.  Or  the  ham  may  be 
cut  very  thin,  spread  with  a  light  coat  of  mustard  and 
laid  between  thin  slices  of  buttered  bread. 

PORK  AND  BEANS, 
OR    BOSTON    BAKED    BEANS,    NO.  I. 

Much  of  the  excellence  of  this  dish  depends  upon  the 
kind  of  bean-pot  used.  It  should  be  of  earthenware,  with 
a  narrow  mouth  and  bulging  sides.  Soak  a  quart  of 
pea  beans  in  cold  water  over  night ;  in  the  morning  place 
them  in  fresh  water,  and  simmer  gently  until  soft  enough 
to  pierce  with  a  pin,  being  careful  that  they  do  not 
boil  long  enough  to  break.  If  desired,  a  small  onion 
may  be  boiled  with  the  beans.  When  they  are  soft,  turn 
them  into  a  colander,  pour  cold  water  through  them,  and 
place  them,  when  well  drained,  in  the  bean-pot.  Pour 
boiling  water  over  a-quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork  that 
is  part  fat  and  part  lean.  Scrape  the  rind  until  white, 
cut  it  in  half-inch  strips,  and  bury  the  meat  in  the 
beans,  leaving  only  the  rind  exposed.  Mix  together  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt,  a  tea-spoonful  of  dry  mustard  and 
a-fourth  of  a  cupful  of  molasses.  Place  these  in  a  cup, 
fill  the  cup  with  hot  water,  stir  until  well  mixed,  and  pour 


198  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  liquid  over  the  beans  and  pork.  Add  enough  water 
to  cover  the  beans,  and  bake  eight  hours,  adding  water 
to  keep  them  covered,  until  the  last  hour,  when  the  pork 
should  be  raised  to  the  surface  to  crisp. 

If  pork  is  disliked,  it  may  be  omitted  ;  more  salt  must 
then  be  used,  together  with  a  third  of  a  cupful  of  butter ; 
or  half  a  pound  of  fat  and  lean  corned  beef  may  be 
substituted. 

BOSTON    BAKED   BEANS,    NO.  2. 

This  recipe  has  been  used  most  successfully  for  many 
years,  and  the  work  is  quickly  done. 

Do  not  soak  the  beans  over  night.  Place  a  quart  of 
pea  beans  over  the  fire,  cover  them  with  cold  water, 
and  slowly  bring  the  water  to  a  boil ;  then  set  the  kettle 
where  the  beans  will  just  bubble,  but.  will  at  no  time  boil 
hard.  When  they  have  cooked  in  this  way  for  fifteen 
minutes,  add  a  four-inch  square  of  salt  pork  to  the  kettle, 
and  simmer  gently  with  the  beans  until  they  may  be 
pierced  with  a  pin,  but  are  not  at  all  broken  ;  then  turn 
the  beans  into  a  colander  to  drain.  Place  together  in  a 

o 

coffee-cup  two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  molasses,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt  and  a-fourth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper, 
and  fill  the  cup  with  some  of  the  hot  water  in  which  the 
beans  were  boiled.  Place  the  beans  in  the  bean-pot,  turn 
over  them  the  cupful  of  seasoning,  and  stir  well  until 
thoroughly  mixed.  Cut  the  rind  of  the  pork  in  small 
squares,  sink  the  meat  in  the  beans,  leaving  only  the  rind 
exposed ;  add  more  bean  water  until  the  rind  is  covered, 
and  bake  two  hours,  raising  the  pork  during  the  last  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  to  brown  and  crisp  the  top.  More 
baking  may  be  allowed  if  there  is  time  for  it  before  serv- 


MEATS.  199 

ing  ;  but  excellent  baked  beans  have  for  many  years  been 
prepared  in  this  way  in  the  writer's  household,  and  never 
with  more  than  two  hours'  baking. 

BACON. 

This  is  cured  the  same  as  ham.  It  may  be  boiled  ;  or 
it  may  be  cut  in  thin  slices  and  fried  or  broiled  crisp.  It 
is  also  cooked  with  liver. 

LARD. 

Housekeepers  who  would  have  really  fine  lard  should 
prepare  it  at  home,  as  that  purchased  at  the  stores  is 
almost  invariably  close  and  tough  and  good  results  can- 
not be  expected  from  its  use.  Particularly  in  making 
pie-crust  will  poor  lard  assert  itself,  for  the  crust  can 
never  be  flaky  if  the  lard  is  tough.  Cut  the  lard-fat  into 
small  pieces,  removing  all  flesh  and  membrane.  Put 
enough  water  in  a  kettle  to  cover  the  bottom,  and  lay  in 
the  fat.  The  water  will  prevent  the  lard  burning  and 
will  all  have  evaporated  by  the  time  the  lard  has  melted. 
Boil  gently  until  the  "  scraps"  settle,  stirring  often. 

The  "  leaf  "  produces  the  finest  lard,  and  should  never 
be  put  in  with  the  inferior  fat. 

The  fat  from  the  small  intestines  and  the  pieces  not 
fit  for  salting  should  be  laid  in  lukewarm  water  for 
twenty-four  hours  and  should  be  melted  by  itself.  Set  it 
away  to  freeze,  and  the  strong  flavor  will  soon  be  gone. 
These  minute  directions  are,  of  course,  more  especially 
intended  for  the  benefit  of  country  housewives. 

POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

The  flesh  of  poultry  and  game  has  less  red  blood  than 
the  flesh  of  animals  and  is  dryer  and  not  marbled  with 


ZOO  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

fat.  Game  has  a  strong  odor  and  flavor  that  is  mistaken 
by  many  to  be  an  indication  that  the  meat  is  tainted. 
Whitefleshed  game  should  be  well  cooked,  while  that 
which  has  dark  flesh  should  be  served  rare. 

TO  CHOOSE  POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

The  best  chickens  have  soft,  yellow  feet,  short,  thick 
legs,  smooth  skin  and  a  plump  breast,  the  cartilage  on 
the  end  of  the  breast-bone  being  soft  and  easy  to  bend. 
This  is  sometimes  broken  in  old  fowls  to  deceive  pur- 
chasers, but  this  fact  may  easily  be  detected.  Pin- 
feathers,  as  the  short,  young  feathers  are  called,  always 
indicate  a  young  bird;  while  long  hairs  invariably  belong 
to  the  older  ones. 

The  bodies  of  capons  are  very  plump  and  are  larger 
in  proportion  than  those  of  fowls  or  chickens  ;  and  the 
meat  is  of  fine  flavor.  Old  fowls  have  long,  thin  necks, 
the  feet  have  sharp  scales,  and  the  flesh  is  of  a  purplish  hue. 

The  best  turkeys  have  smooth,  black  legs,  soft  spurs 
and  white  flesh. 

Geese  and  ducks  should  not  be  more  than  a  year  old  ; 
they  should  have  soft,  yellow  feet  and  tender  wings  and 
be  thick  and  hard  on  the  breast,  and  the  wind-pipe  should 
break  easily  when  pressed  with  thumb  and  finger.  Wild 
ducks  have  feet  of  a  reddish  hue. 

Young  pigeons  have  light-red  flesh  on  the  breast  and 
full,  flesh-colored  legs.  Old  pigeons  are  thin  and  very 
dark  on  the  breast.  Wild  pigeons  are  cheap,  but  are  apt 
to  be  very  dry.  Squabs  are  the  young  of  the  tame 
pigeon. 

Grouse,  partridge  and  quail  should  have  full,  heavy 
breasts,  dark  bills  and  yellowish  legs. 


MEATS.  2oi 

Young  rabbits  have  smooth,  sharp  claws,  tender  ears 
and  paws  and  short  necks. 

Venison  should  be  dark-red,  with  some  white  fat. 

TO    DRESS   POULTRY. 

In  some  markets  poultry  is  sold  ready  dressed,  in 
others  it  is  picked  but  not  drawn,  while  in  still  other 
places  the  poultry  may  be  bought  alive.  The  best  and 
quickest  way  of  killing  poultry  is  by  cutting  the  throat, 
but  some  cut  the  head  entirely  off.  In  either  case,  the 
fowl  should  at  once  be  hung  by  the  feet,  as  death  then 
follows  more  quickly  and  the  body  is  more  perfectly 
emptied  of  blood.  Begin  at  once  to  strip  off  the  feathers. 
Do  not  make  the  mistake  of  scalding  any  bird.  If  all 
country  women  knew  that  they  would  receive  at  least 
twenty-five  per  cent,  more  for  "  dry  picked  "  poultry  (as 
that  picked  unscalded  is  called),  the  reckless  and  indis- 
criminate use  of  hot  water  for  this  purpose  would  cease. 
Young  chickens  are  completely  spoiled  by  being  thus  par- 
boiled ;  and  while  the  injury  to  the  meat  is  not  so  great 
in  older  birds,  the  flavor  is  much  changed.  In  picking, 
take  a  few  feathers  in  the  hand  and  give  them  a  quick 
jerk  toward  the  tail.  Do  not  pull  the  feathers  toward  the 
head,  as  the  skin  is  much  more  easily  torn  by  drawing 
them  in  this  direction.  When  all  feathers  and  pin  feath- 
ers have  been  removed,  singe  the  bird  by  holding  the 
head  and  passing  the  body  backward  and  forward  over  a 
blazing  paper,  turning  both  sides  to  the  blaze,  and  taking 
care  not  to  scorch  the  skin. 

TO    CLEAN    POULTRY. 

Cut  off  the  head,  and  the  feet  at  the  first  joint.  Cut 
the  skin  on  the  back  of  the  neck  the  entire  length  of  the 


202  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

body;  turn  the  skin  over  on  the  breast,  stripping  it  from 
the  neck;  and  cut  off  the  neck-bone  close  to  the  body. 
No  good  cook  will  roast  poultry  without  first  removing 
the  bony  neck,  for  it  is  an  unsightly  piece,  and  there  is 
little  if  anything  on  it  to  eat.  It  may,  however,  be  used 
when  stewing  chicken,  but  it  should  never  be  served  at 
table. 

Carefully  remove  the  crop  from  the  breast.  This  is  a 
thin  membrane — often  so  thin  and  soft,  in  fact,  that  it  is 
hardly  perceptible,  so  that  special  care  is  required  to  find 
and  remove  it.  When  the  crop  is  all  taken  out,  insert 
the  forefinger  in  the  throat,  and  break  the  ligaments  that 
hold  the  internal  organs  to  the  breast-bone.  Make  an  in- 
cision near  the  vent,  and  work  the  hand  slowly  around, 
riot  through,  the  organs,  keeping  the  fingers  close  to  the 
breast-bone  until  they  can  reach  no  farther,  and  loosen- 
ing the  organs  on  each  side  down  toward  the  back. 
The  gall-bladder  lies  on  the  left  side,  and  if  the  fingers 
be  kept  up  and  everything  loosened  before  drawing  out, 
there  will  be  no  danger  of  its  breaking.  Gently  draw  out 
all  the  organs  at  once.  It  may  be  that  the  lights  and  a 
piece  of  the  wind-pipe  will  not  come  out  with  the  rest. 
The  lights  will  be  found  embedded  in  the  ribs,  being  of 
a  soft,  spongy,  pinkish  substance.  Look  in  the  throat  for 
the  wind-pipe.  Remove  the  oil-sac  from  the  top  of  the 
tail.  One  of  the  best  authorities  says  it  is  best  not  to 
wash  a  bird  of  any  kind,  either  outside  or  inside,  unless 
some  accident  has  happened  in  removing  the  entrails; 
it  should  be  wiped  with  a  very  damp  cloth.  Other 
authorities,  equally  good,  advise  washing  very  quickly, 
not  allowing  the  bird  to  remain  in  the  water  a  moment. 
All  the  best  cooks  agree  that  water  ruins  the  sweetness 


ME  A  TS.  2O3 

and  detracts  much  from  the  flavor  of  poultry  and  game 
and,  if  needed  at  all,  should  be  used  very  sparingly. 
Cut  the  liver  away  from  the  gall-bag,  taking  care  not  to 
break  the  gall.  Cut  open  the  heart  to  remove  the  blood, 
or  else  pinch  it  gently  to  empty  it.  Cut  carefully  in  one 
of  the  thick  ends  of  the  gizzard,  cutting  only  to  the  lining 
and  not  into  it.  Draw  off  the  gizzard,  leaving  the  lining 
that  contains  the  sand  unbroken.  Wash  these  pieces  and 
set  them  away  for  use. 

Turkeys,  geese,  ducks,  pigeons,  pheasants  and  all  birds 
are  cleaned  in  the  same  way.  Should  the  fowl,  when 
drawn,  have  a  bad  odor,  wash  it  in  cold  water  in  which 
has  been  dissolved  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda.  This  will 
help  to  restore  the  meat,  but  such  birds  are  never  satis- 
factory. Poultry  when  bought  undrawn  is  very  sure  to 
have  a  strong  smell.  If  housekeepers  everywhere  would 
maintain  a  crusade  against  the  sale  of  undrawn  poultry  in 
the  markets  or  by  farmers,  they  would  work  a  most 
wholesome  hygienic  reform.  It  is  a  vicious  practice — an 
abuse,  in  fact,  that  people  have  endured,  like  many  other 
abuses,  because  there  is  no  remedy  except  in  concerted 
action.  It  is  impossible  to  keep  undrawn  poultry  even  a 
few  hours  without  putrefaction  setting  in,  taking  place 
from  the  effect  of  the  gases  arising  from  the  undigested 
food  in  the  crop  and  intestines.  The  longer  it  is  kept, 
the  more  of  the  poison  goes  into  the  flesh ;  and  in  the 
majority  of  cases  poultry  that  reaches  the  kitchen  from 
the  market  is  actually  unfit  for  food.  Housekeepers 
could  well  afford  to  pay  a  larger  price  to  have  the  poultry 
dressed  immediately  upon  being  killed,  since  much  is 
now  paid  for  that  is  thrown  away,  besides  having  left  a 
mass  of  poisoned  flesh.  It  is  urged  that  some  people 


204  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

prefer  the  flavor  of  undressed  poultry,  but  that  fact  only 
makes  the  matter  the  more  alarming  since  it  indicates 
that  we  are  cultivating  a  taste  for  putrid  meat. 

ROAST   TURKEY,    WITH  GIBLET  GRAVY. 

Singe  and  clean  as  directed.  Make  any  of  the  stuffings, 
the  recipes  of  which  are  given  on  pages  205  and  206. 
Work  the  hand  gently  under  the  skin  on  the  breast,  to  lift 
the  skin  from  the  flesh,  working  through  the  cut  made  by 
taking  out  the  neck,  and  taking  care  not  to  break  the  skin. 
Put  a  thin  layer  of  dressing  between  the  skin  and  flesh ; 
and  place  the  rest  of  the  stuffing  lightly  in  the  body, 
being  careful  not  to  pack  it  at  all.  When  the  breast  is 
stuffed,  draw  the  skin  of  the  neck  over  on  the  back  and 
fasten  it  to  the  back  with  a  skewer.  Turn  the  tips  of 
the  wings  under  the  back,  and  fasten  them  in  that  posi- 
tion with  a  skewer,  running  it  through  the  wings  and 
body.  Make  an  incision  in  the  skin  near  the  opening 
where  the  entrails  have  been  taken  out,  and  insert  the 
"drum-sticks"  in  the  holes,  tying  them  together  after 
they  are  so  placed.  Sew  up  the  vent  where  the  stuffing 
was  put  in.  Moisten  the  skin  of  the  bird  with  a  little 
water,  and  sprinkle  it  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour.  The 
moisture  helps  to  retain  the  seasoning  on  the  meat. 
Place  the  turkey  in  a  dripping-pan  in  the  oven,  adding  a 
very  little  water  to  the  pan,  and  roast,  allowing  twenty 
minutes  to  a  pound.  After  it  has  roasted  twenty-five 
minutes,  baste  with  the  oil  and  water  in  the  pan,  and 
baste  every  fifteen  minutes  until  baked  enough. 
Frequent  basting  is  the  secret  of  success  in  roasting  fowl. 
If  the  basting  is  done  every  ten  minutes,  it  will  be  none 
too  often,  but  it  should  be  done  every  fifteen  minutes  at 


ME  A  7'S. 


20$ 


the  longest.  Some  cooks  advise  rubbing  butter  on  the 
legs  and  breast,  but  it  must  be  a  very  thin  turkey  that  re- 
quires this,  as  there  is  usually  quite  enough  fat  given  off 
for  use  in  basting.  When  the  turkey  is  done,  place  it  on 
a  platter,  remove  the  strings  and  skewers,  and  place  it  in 
the  oven  while  the  gravy  is  being  prepared. 

TO     MAKE    GIBLET    GRAVY. 

Place  the  giblets  (the  liver,  heart  and  gizzard)  and  the 
neck  that  has  been  cut  off,  in  a  sauce-pan,  and  cover  them 
with  cold  water.  Simmer  slowly,  and  when  tender  re- 
move the  neck  and  chop  the  giblets  fine,  saving  the  water 
in  which  they  were  cooked.  When  the  turkey  is  lifted 
from  the  pan,  pour  off  all  but  three  small  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  oil,  place  the  pan  on  the  top  of  the  stove,  and  when 
the  gravy  boils,  stir  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  Cook 
two  minutes  and  add  the  water  in  which  the  giblets  were 
cooked,  pouring  it  in  gradually  so  as  not  to  thin  the  gravy 
too  much.  If  the  gravy  seems  too  thick,  add  also  a 
little  hot  water.  Put  in  lastly  the  chopped  giblets,  and 
season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  in  a  gravy 
dish. 

STUFFING    FOR  TURKEY — NO.    I. 

Three  cupfuls  of  grated  stale  bread. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  crumbs,  and  let  them  stand  at 
least  an  hour,  when  the  rest  of  the  seasoning  may  be 
added.  This  makes  a  crumby  stuffing. 


206  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

STUFFING    FOR    TURKEY — NO.    2. 

One  quart  of  grated  bread. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  onion. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  summer  savory. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  thyme. 

Pour  the  milk  on  the  crumbs,  and  cover  tightly  for  an 
hour ;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  omitting  the 
onion,  if  objectionable. 

OYSTER   STUFFING. 

Two  cupfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Twenty-five  oysters. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  crumbs,  add  the  seasoning,  and 
put  in  the  oysters  last,  leaving  them  whole. 

CRANBERRY   SAUCE,    FOR   ROAST   TURKEY. 

One  quart  of  cranberries. 
One  pint  of  water. 
One  pint  of  sugar. 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  berries,  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  the  water  and  sugar,  and  cook  slowly  for  twenty 
minutes.  Rinse  a  mould  with  cold  water,  pour  in  the 
stewed  berries,  and  set  them  away  to  cool.  When 


ME  A  rs.  207 

wanted  for  serving,  turn  out  upon  a  flat   dish,  cut   off   a 
thick  slice  and  send  to  the  table. 

ROAST   TURKEY,    WITH    CHESTNUT    STUFFING. 

Draw  and  clean  the  turkey  as  previously  directed. 
Shell  and  blanch  fifty  large  French  chestnuts,  and  boil 
them  half  an  hour  in  water  enough  to  cover.  Drain  off 
the  water,  and  add  to  the  nuts  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  pepper.  Mix  well,  and  place  them  in  the  turkey. 
Truss  and  roast  the  fowl  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe.  When  done,  serve  with 

CHESTNUT    SAUCE. 

Thirty  French  chestnuts. 

One  pint  of  water. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  nuts,  boil  until  tender,  drain 
thoroughly,  and  mash  them  with  a  potato  masher.  Add 
the  water  a  little  at  a  time,  rub  the  mixture  through  a 
sieve,  and  cook  gently  in  a  sauce-pan  for  half  an  hour. 
Place  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  add  the 
flour.  Cook  until  the  flour  is  of  a  dark-brown  color, 
stirring  constantly;  then  add  the  chestnut  mixture,  cook 
for  three  or  four  minutes,  and  serve  in  a  gravy-boat. 

BOILED    TURKEY,    WITH    CELERY    SAUCE. 

If  a  turkey  dressed  in  this  way  is  not  well  managed  it 
will  be  quite  tasteless.  It  should  be  well  trussed  and 


208  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

tied,  or  the  legs  and  wings  will  be  sadly  disarranged  dur- 
ing the  process  of  boiling.  When  the  turkey  has  been 
cleaned,  stuff  it  with  the  following 

CELERY   STUFFING. 

One-half  head  of  celery. 
One  quart  of  bread-crumbs. 
Two  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Chop  the  celery  fine,  and  add  the  other  ingredients 
after  rubbing  the  butter  into  the  crumbs ;  fill  the  turkey 
the  same  as  directed  for  a  roast  turkey,  putting  a  little  of 
the  stuffing  in  the  breast  also;  and  sew  it  up  very  se- 
curely. Wring  a  large  square  of  cotton  cloth  out  of  cold 
water,  and  dredge  the  cloth  thickly  with  flour.  Pin  the 
turkey,  in  this  cloth,  and  plunge  it  in  boiling  water. 
Allow  twenty  minutes  boiling  to  a  pound  ;  boil  rapidly 
the  first  fifteen  minutes,  and  then  moderate  the  boiling 
somewhat,  but  never  stop  it  entirely.  Place  the  turkey, 
when  done,  on  a  platter,  remove  the  cloth  and  skewers, 
drain  well,  and  serve  with 

CELERY  SAUCE. 

One  head  of  celery. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Cut  the  celery  fine,  and  place  it  in  a  sauce-pan  with  just 
enough  water  to  cover.  Cover  the  pan,  and  simmer 


ME  A  TS.  209 

gently.  When  it  has  boiled  an  hour,  mix  the  butter  and 
flour  together,  and  add  them  to  the  celery,  also  adding 
the  milk,  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  two  minutes,  stirring  all 
the  time,  and  serve  in  a  gravy-boat. 

BRAISED    TURKEY. 

This  is  a  very  satisfactory  way  of  cooking  an  old  turkey 
that  is  unfit  for  roasting  or  boiling.  Make  a  stuffing  as 
for  roast  turkey,  stuff  the  body  and  breast,  and  truss. 
Spread  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  over  the  breast  and  legs, 
and  cover  the  turkey  with  a  strong  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  fastening  the  paper  on  by  passing  a  string  around 
the  body.  Spread  in  a  braising-pan  large  enough  to  hold 
the  turkey  the  following : 

One-quarter  pound  of  salt  pork,  sliced. 
One-quarter  pint  of  chopped  celery. 
One-quarter  pint  of  chopped  carrot. 
One-quarter  pint  of  chopped  onion. 
One-quarter  pint  of  chopped  turnip. 

Lay  the  turkey  on  this  mixture,  with  the  breast  up, 
cover  the  pan  tightly,  and  place  in  a  moderate  oven. 
At  the  end  of  thirty  minutes  add  a  quart  of  water,  or 
stock,  if  at  hand,  and  baste  the  turkey  every  fifteen  min- 
utes with  the  gravy  this  will  make,  sprinkling  once  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Allow  twenty-five  minutes  to  the  pound. 
During  the  last  half-hour  take  the  cover  from  the  pan,  re- 
move the  paper  and  pork  from  the  turkey,  and  thus  per- 
mit the  meat  to  brown  slightly.  When  done,  lift  the 
turkey  from  the  pan,  untruss  it,  and  lay  it  on  a  large  plat- 
ter. Strain  off  the  gravy,  and  use  it  for  the 
14 


2 1 0  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

MUSHROOM    SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  strained  gravy. 
t  One-quarter  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms,  01 
I  Three-quarters  can  of  canned  mushrooms. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-half  of  a  baked  sour  apple. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  and  a-half  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

A  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Place  the  butter  in  a  stew-pan,  and  when  hot  and 
browning,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  well  until  of  a  dark- 
brown.  Draw  the  pan  back  to  a  cool  place,  and  stir  the 
butter  until  slightly  cooled ;  then  add  the  gravy,  and  stir 
until  it  boils.  Now  add  the  seasoning,  the  baked  apple 
and  half  the  mushrooms,  and  set  the  sauce  where  it  will 
gently  bubble  for  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  this  time  skim 
off  the  oil  that  will  have  arisen  to  the  top,  and  strain  the 
sauce  into  another  pan,  adding  the  remainder  of  the 
mushrooms  and  three  table-spoonfuls  more  of  the  gravy 
left  from  braising  the  turkey.  If  fresh  mushrooms  are 
used,  they  should  be  pared,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  sim- 
mered ten  minutes  in  the  sauce  before  serving.  When 
canned  mushrooms  are  used,  they  should  be  cooked 
whole  and  simmered  but  five  minutes. 

TO  "WARM  OVER"  TURKEY. 

Cut  the  drum-sticks  and  wings  from  the  body,  and  take 
off  all  the  meat  remaining  on  the  breast.  Also  use  any 
pieces  that  may  have  remained  on  the  platter  when  the 
turkey  was  first  carved.  Disjoint  the  back  piece,  called 
the  rump,  splitting  it  down  the  back  and  cutting  each 
piece  in  two,  thus  making  four  pieces  of  the  back.  Place 


MEA  TS.  211 

all  these  pieces  in  a  kettle,  acid  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  stuffing  and  any  gravy  that  may  have  been  left  from 
the  roast.  Add  water  to  half  the  height  of  the  turkey  in 
the  kettle,  cover  the  kettle  tightly,  and  set  it  in  a  moder 
ate  heat.  Cook  at  least  forty-five  minutes,  stirring  often, 
and  adding  more  water  if  it  should  seem  necessary ; 
there  should  be  just  enough  at  the  last  to  keep  the  meat 
from  sticking  to  the  kettle.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
turn  on  a  platter,  and  serve.  It  is  a  mistake  to  cut  the 
meat  from  the  bones,  as  the  result  is  very  unsatisfactory. 
The  turkey  should  stew  so  slowly  that  it  will  only  be 
thoroughly  warmed,  and  it  should  in  no  case  fall  from  the 
bones.  The  large  body  part  of  the  turkey  is  never  used, 
except  for  soup. 

A    FRICASSEE  OF    CHICKEN. 

Draw  and  singe  the  chicken  as  directed,  and  cut  it  into 
pieces.  This  is  done  as  follows :  Cut  through  the  loose 
skin  between  the  legs  and  the  body,  bend  the  legs  over, 
and  cut  them  off  at  the  joint ;  also  cut  the  upper  leg  from 
the  lower  leg  at  their  joining.  Cut  off  the  neck  and 
wings  where  they  join  the  body,  always  cutting  at  the 
joints.  Lay  the  chicken  on  its  breast,  with  the  tail 
toward  you.  Cut  a  slice  off  the  breast  reaching  into  the 
large  bone  of  the  body,  thus  cutting  out  the  "  happy 
thought "  or  wish-bone.  Cut  to  the  back  through  the  in- 
cision made  in  taking  out  the  entrails,  and  disjoint  the 
back,  cutting  this  piece,  which  contains  the  rump,  again 
across  the  back,  making  two  pieces  of  it.  Cut  the  ribs 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  piece  that  will  be  left; 
also  cut  the  length  of  the  bird  on  the  other  side  from  the 
neck  to  the  end  of  the  breast-bone,  and  cut  these  large 


2 1  2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

pieces  again  into  two  parts.  In  cutting  a  bird  or  rabbit 
or  any  meat  of  the  kind  to  be  fricasseed,  divide  it  at  the 
joints  as  far  as  possible,  and  never  chop  a  bone,  as  that 
crushes  it. 

Place  the  chicken  in  a  kettle,  cover  it  with  boiling 
water,  and  gently  simmer  until  tender.  An  old  fowl  will 
need  to  be  cooked  at  least  two  hours,  but  a  tender  one 
will  be  done  in  half  that  time.  Remove  the  cover  during 
the  last  half  hour,  so  that  the  gravy  in  the  kettle  may  re- 
duce somewhat.  There  should  be  about  a  pint  and 
a-half  when  done;  and  if  it  is  already  reduced  to  this 
measurement  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  half  hour,  keep 
the  cover  on  that  it  may  not  boil  away  any  more.  Sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  a  little  butter  also  if 
the  chicken  was  lacking  in  fat ;  this,  however,  will  rarely 
be  necessary.  Have  ready  some  nicely  toasted  bread 
and  lay  it  on  a  platter.  Lift  the  chicken  from  the  kettle 
with  a  long-handled  skimmer  and  lay  it  on  the  toast.  Set 
the  gravy  back  where  it  will  not  boil,  and  with  a  spoon 
dip  off  all  the  fat  that  can  be  skimmed  from  the  top. 
Then  add  a  cupful  of  milk,  and  set  the  gravy  again  to 
heat.  When  it  boils,  stir  in  two  and  a-half  table-spoon- 
fuls of  flour  wet  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  cold  milk, 
and  boil  two  minutes,  stirring  constantly ;  season  with 
more  salt  and  pepper  if  necessary.  The  gravy  should  be 
as  thick  as  cream  ;  and  if  it  is  not,  stir  in  more  flour.  It 
is  always  difficult  to  give  the  precise  amount  of  thickening 
needed  when  the  exact  quantity  to  be  thickened  is  not 
known.  Pour  the  gravy  over  the  chicken  and  toast,  and 
serve  at  once.  This  is  a  very  satisfactory  way  of  cooking 
old,  tough  fowl ;  indeed,  there  is  no  other,  unless,  per- 
haps, it  be  that  contained  in  the  following  recipe, 


ME  A  TS.  213 

BRAISED    CHICKEN. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  braised  turkey,  leaving  out  the 
mushrooms,  and  thickening  the  gravy  poured  from  the 
braising  pan.  A  tender  chicken  is  rarely  if  ever  dressed 
in  this  way,  only  old  fowls  being  used. 

BROWN    FRICASSEE   OF   CHICKEN. 

Cut  in  pieces  as  directed  for  fricassee  of  chicken. 
Place  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork  or  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  put  in  the  chicken, 
leaving  plenty  of  room  to  turn  the  meat ;  and  cook  until 
each  piece  is  of  a  rich  brown  tint.  Add  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  flour,  stir  well,  and  when  it  has  cooked  two 
minutes,  add  a  pint  of  boiling  water.  When  the  gravy 
is  smooth  and  boiling,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  the  pan,  and  simmer  gently  until  the  chicken  is 
tender;  then  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  onion  juice,  if  not 
objectionable,  and  dish  at  once.  The  gravy,  will  be 
found  thick  enough,  and  if  the  pan  has  a  tight  cover  it 
will  not  be  diminished  even  after  a  long  cooking. 

WHITE    FRICASSEE   OF    CHICKEN. 

Cut  the  chicken  in  pieces  as  directed,  cover  with  boil- 
ing water  in  the  kettle,  and  simmer  slowly  until  tender, 
leaving  the  cover  half  off  to  reduce  the  gravy.  There 
should  be  only  just  enough  in  the  kettle  at  the  last  to  keep 
the  meat  from  burning.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
lift  out  the  chicken,  and  place  on  a  platter  upon  toasted 
bread.  Make  the  following  sauce  or  gravy,  and  pour  it 
over  the  chicken  and  toast : 


2  14  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 

Heat  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  stir  in  the  flour,  and 
cook  slowly  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  but 
taking  care  not  to  burn  the  flour.  Draw  the  pan  away 
from  the  heat,  and  gradually  add  the  milk.  When  well 
mixed  in,  turn  all  into  the  kettle  from  which  the  chicken 
was  taken,  and  set  in  a  hot  place  to  boil,  adding  salt  and 
pepper,  if  needed.  Let  the  gravy  boil  two  or  three  min- 
utes, remove  it  from  the  fire,  add  the  beaten  yolks,  and 
pour  it  at  once  over  the  chicken.  Sprinkle  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  finely  chopped  parsley  over  the  top  of  the  chicken 
just  before  serving. 

ROAST   CHICKEN,    WITH    GIBLET    SAUCE. 

Prepare  this  the  same  as  roast  turkey,  using  but  half 
the  amount  of  stuffing,  and  allowing  but  fifteen  minutes 
cooking  to  a  pound. 

Baste  well  every  ten  minutes,  else  the  chicken  will  be 
dry  and  disappointing.  Chickens  may  be  filled  with 
chestnut  stuffing  the  same  as  turkeys. 

FRIED   SPRING    CHICKEN    (SOUTHERN    STYLE). 

The  colored  cooks  of  the  South  have  perhaps,  discov- 
ered the  most  delicious  way  of  cooking  young  chickens, 
and  the  method  is  very  simple. 

Cut  the  small  chickens  in  four  or  six  pieces,  dip  each 
piece  hastily  in  cold  water,  then  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  roll  the  pieces  in  plenty  of  flour.  Have  some 


ME  A  TS.  21$ 

sweet  lard  heated  very  hot  in  a  frying-pan,  and  fry  the 
chicken  until  each  piece  is  of  a  rich  brown  hue  on  both 
sides.  Take  up,  drain  well,  and  arrange  the  pieces  on  a 
warm  platter,  setting  the  dish  in  a  hot  place  to  keep  the 
meat  from  cooling  while  the  gravy  is  being  made.  Pour 
out  of  the  pan  all  but  a  table-spoonful  of  the  oil,  and  stir 
into  the  pan  a  cupful  of  milk.  When  the  liquid  is  hot  and 
well  stirred,  thicken  to  a  rich  cream  with  a  table-spoonful 
of  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Boil  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  constantly,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the  chicken.  A 
little  chopped  parsley  is  often  added  to  the  gravy.  But- 
ter, if  here  used  in  place  of  lard,  is  difficult  to  manage,  as 
it  burns  so  easily ;  lard  is  decidedly  to  be  preferred  for 
this  purpose.  Fried  chicken  is  a  standard  dish  in  the  Old 
Dominion  and  is  nowhere  prepared  in  such  perfection. 

FRIED    CHICKEN,    NO.  2. 

Cut  the  chicken  in  pieces,  and  season  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Dip  each  piece  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  cracker- 
crumbs,  and  fry  brown  in  hot  lard.  Throw  a  few  sprigs 
of  parsley  into  the  fat  when  all  the  chicken  has  been 
fried,  and  let  them  remain  in  long  enough  to  become 
crisp  but  not  too  dry.  Strew  them  over  the  chicken,  and 
serve. 

SMOTHERED   CHICKEN. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  ways  of  cooking 
chickens.  Clean,  take  off  the  neck,  and  split  the  chicken 
down  the  back,  wiping  it  with  a  damp  towel.  Season 
inside  and  out  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dredge  on  all 
sides  with  flour.  Lay  the  chicken,  with  the  inside  down, 


2 1 6  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

in  a  small  baking  tin,  adding  a  cupful  of  water.  The  pan 
should  be  but  little  larger  than  the  chicken  ;  otherwise  the 
gravy  will  be  too  quickly  evaporated.  Cook  slowly  for 
one  hour,  basting  every  ten  minutes  after  the  first  twenty 
minutes  cooking.  Should  the  chicken  be  decidedly  lack- 
ing in  fat,  add  a  small  table-spoonful  of  butter.  There 
will  be  plenty  of  gravy  in  the  pan  with  which  to  baste  if 
the  pan  is  small.  When  done,  place  the  chicken  on  a  hot 
platter,  and  thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  with  a  little  flour, 
after  adding  another  half  cupful  of  water.  Should  the 
chicken  be  quite  fat,  remove  all  but  a  table-spoonful  of 
the  oil  from  the  pan  before  making  the  gravy.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  pour  the  gravy  over  the 
chicken,  and  serve  at  once. 

Any  small  birds  may  be  dressed  in  this  way,  with  the 
most  satisfactory  results,  the  secret  of  success  in  this  kind 
of  roasting  lying  in  very  frequent  basting  and  in  not 
having  too  hot  an  oven. 


BROILED    CHICKEN. 

Only  tender  chickens  or  those  that  may  surely  be 
made  tender  are  ever  cooked  by  broiling.  Clean  and 
singe  the  chickens  as  directed,  picking  out  all  pin-feathers. 
Split  each  chicken  down  the  back,  and  wipe  with  a  damp 
towel.  Even  when  you  are  quite  certain  the  chickens  are 
tender,  it  is  wise  to  steam  them  before  broiling.  This  is 
done  thus :  Set  the  dripping-pan  in  the  oven,  and  nearly 
fill  it  with  boiling  water.  Place  two  sticks  across  the 
pan,  extending  them  from  side  to  side,  and  upon  them  lay 
the  chicken.  Invert  a  tin  pan  over  it,  and,  shutting 
the  oven  door  let  the  chicken  steam  for  thirty  minutes. 


MEATS.  217 

This  process  relaxes  the  muscles  and  renders  the  joints 
supple,  besides  preserving  the  juices  that  would  be  lost  in 
parboiling.  Transfer  the  chicken  from  this  vapor  bath  to 
a  wire  broiler,  and  turn  the  inside  of  the  chicken  to  the 
fire  first.  Cover  the  broiler  with  a  tin  pan,  and  broil  until 
the  fowl  is  tender  and  brown,  turning  it  frequently  and 
being  careful  the  fire  is  not  too  hot.  The  chicken  will  fin- 
ish cooking  in  half  an  hour.  Lay  it  on  a  warmed  platter, 
spread  it  with  butter,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve.  Some  good  cooks  season  before  broiling,  and  in 
this  case  the  chicken,  after  being  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
pepper,  should  be  dusted  all  over  with  flour.  The  salt  will 
draw  out  the  juices,  but  the  flour  will  unite  with  them, 
forming  a  paste  that  keeps  the  remaining  juices  well  in 
the  chicken.  This  plan  may  be  followed  for  broiling 
beefsteak. 


BAKED    CHICKEN    (CAMPING    PARTY    STYLE). 

• 

Do  not  remove  the  feathers  from  the  chicken.  Take 
out  the  entrails  and  crop,  making  as  small  incisions  as 
possible ;  and  cut  out  the  vent.  Stuff  with  half  the 
stuffing  directed  for  roast  turkey,  or  if  this  is  not  con- 
venient, sew  up  the  body  securely  without  stuffing  at 
all.  Cover  the  chicken  with  wet  clay,  spreading  it 
half  an  inch  or  even  one  inch  thick.  Bury  the  chicken 
in  a  bed  of  hot  ashes,  place  coals  on  the  top,  and 
bake  an  hour  and  a-quarter,  if  the  bird  weighs  two 
pounds.  The  feathers  will  peel  off  as  the  cake  of 
clay  is  removed,  leaving  the  flesh  quite  clean.  This 
is  an  especially  delicious  dish  for  a  hungry  camping 
party. 


2 1 8  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BOILED    CHICKEN. 

Chickens  are  boiled  the  same  as  turkeys.  In  winter 
there  is  no  better  way  than  to  boil  them  whole  and  pour 
over  them  a  strong  caper  sauce  when  serving.  The 
chickens  should  be  stuffed,  well  sewed,  and  pinned 
in  a  wet  cloth  that  has  been  generously  sprinkled  with 
flour;  they  are  then  plunged  in  boiling  water,  which 
should  not  cease  boiling  until  the  chicken  is  done. 
Allow  twenty  minutes  cooking  to  a  pound.  A  large, 
tough  chicken  may  be  made  very  palatable  prepared  in 
this  way. 

BONED    CHICKEN. 

This  makes  an  exceedingly  nice  course  for  dinner  and 
is  not  difficult  to  manage.  Pick  and  singe  the  chicken 
and  cut  off  the  head  and  feet,  but  do  not  draw  it.  With 
a  sharp  penknife  slit  the  chicken  down  the  back ;  then, 
keeping  the  knife  close  to  the  bones,  scrape  down  the 
sides  and  the  bon^s  will  come  out.  Leave  the  drum- 
sticks and  wing  bones  in,  but  break  them  at  the  joints. 
Stuff  the  chicken  with  chopped  cold,  cooked  lamb,  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of 
summer  savory  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon  ;  and  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  salt  pork.  In  stuff- 
ing, give  the  chicken,  as  far  as  possible,  its  original  shape, 
and  sew  it  up  securely.  Turn  the  ends  of  the  wings 
under  the  back,  tie  or  skewer  them  firmly,  and  tie  the 
legs  down  close  to  the  body,  so  that  the  top  will  present 
a  plump  surface  to  carve  in  slices  across.  Lard  the 
chicken  with  two  rows  on  the  top.  Bake  until  done, 
basting  often,  and  adding  water  to  the  pan  as  needed. 
Allow  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound  in  baking. 


ME  A  TS.  219 

PRESSED    CHICKEN. 

Clean  and  singe  the  chicken,  and  cut  it  in  pieces  as  for 
a  fricassee.  Place  it  in  a  kettle  with  a  very  little  water, 
cover  closely,  and  boil  very  gently  until  the  meat  will  fall 
from  the  bones.  Lift  the  meat  from  the  kettle  with  a 
skimmer,  and,  separating  the  white  meat  from  the  dark, 
scrape  all  the  meat  from  the  bones,  leaving  out  the  skin 
pieces.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  meat  in 
the  dish  it  is  to  be  pressed  in,  laying  the  white  and  dark 
meat  in  alternate  layers,  as  far  as  possible,  and  adding 
from  time  to  time  a  little  of  the  broth  from  the  kettle,  to 
moisten  all  well.  When  all  the  meat  is  in  the  dish 
lay  a  plate  on  top  of  it,  place  a  heavy  weight  upon  the 
plate,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place.  This  makes  a  pretty 
dish  for  luncheon,  the  meat  being  sliced  for  serving  and 
garnished  with  parsley. 

TO    COOK   CHICKEN    FOR   TRAVELLING   LUNCH. 

Use  only  a  young  fowl.  Clean,  split  it  down  the 
back,  and  wipe  dry.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
sprinkle  on  a  little  flour.  Add  water  to  the  pan,  and 
bake  one  hour,  basting  frequently.  Do  not  use  any  butter, 
even  if  the  chicken  should  seem  to  be  lean,  for  the  oil 
in  the  meat  is  intensely  disagreeable  when  the  latter 
has  to  be  eaten  from  the  fingers.  Cut  in  small  pieces 
for  the  lunch. 

CREAMED   CHICKEN. 

One-half  pint  of  cream  or  milk. 
One  pint  of  cooked  chicken. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 


220  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Two  eggs  (yolks). 

Rub  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  cream.  Place  the  milk 
in  a  double  boiler  or  in  a  small  tin  pail  set  in  a  kettle 
of  hot  water,  and  when  scalding,  add  the  flour  and 
butter.  Stir  well,  and  cook  three  minutes.  Add  the 
parsley  and  chicken,  and  cook  until  the  milk  is  thor- 
oughly hot  again.  Beat  the  yolks  well,  adding  to  them 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  milk ;  and  pour  them  into  the 
chicken.  Cook  ten  minutes  and  serve  in  a  border  of 
potato.  Mash  the  potatoes  and  heap  them  around  the 
serving  dish,  placing  the  chicken  in  the  hollow  thus 
formed.  The  chicken  is  sometimes  served  in  a  border  of 
boiled  rice. 

CHICKEN    CROQUETTES. 

One  pint  of  milk  or  cream. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  celery  salt. 

Stir  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  paste.  Heat  the  milk  to 
boiling,  and  stir  in  the  paste ;  add  the  seasoning,  and 
cook  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  When  this 
sauce  is  ready,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  add 

One  egg. 

Two-thirds  of  a  pint  of  chicken. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
A  few  drops  of  onion  juice. 


MEATS.  221 

Chop  the  chicken  quite  fine,  and  beat  the  egg  well 
before  mixing  these  ingredients  in.  When  the  whole  has 
been  well  stirred,  spread  the  mixture  on  a  platter  to  cool. 
When  cold  enough  to  handle,  form  it  into  rolls  by  taking 
a  spoonful  in  the  hand  at  a  time  and  shaping  it  ;  roll 
each  croquette  in  fine  bread-crumbs  or  cracker  dust,  dip 
it  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  the  dust  again,  and  fry  one 
minute  in  smoking  hot  fat,  using  a  frying-basket  if  you 
have  one.  Drain  well  and  serve  hot.  Many  cooks  pre- 
fer to  cut  the  chicken  meat  in  dice  size  and  not  chop 
it ;  if  this  is  done,  use  less  of  the  sauce,  else  the  cro- 
quettes will  be  difficult  to  shape.  Mushrooms,  boiled  rice 
or  veal  may  be  mixed  with  the  chicken  meat.  In  rolling 
any  kind  of  croquettes,  if  the  mixture  is  too  soft  to  handle 
easily,  stir  in  fine  cracker  dust  to  stiffen  it,  but  never  add 
any  uncooked  material,  like  flour  or  corn  starch,  nor  even 
the  dried  bread-crumbs  used  in  -  rolling,  as  these  will 
make  the  croquettes  too  stiff. 

CHICKEN    PIE,    NO.    I. 

Clean,  singe  and  cut  up  two  small  chickens,  the  same 
as  for  a  fricassee.  Place  them  in  a  kettle,  and  add  hot 
water  enough  to  cover.  Put  the  cover  on  the  kettle,  and 
stew  slowly  until  the  chicken  is  tender,  adding  a  little 
more  water,  if  needed.  Take  the  following  for  the 
crust  : 


One  quart  of  flour. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  lard. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder.   . 

Milk  to  moisten. 


222  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Stir  the  salt  and  baking  powder  thoroughly  into  the 
flour,  add  the  lard,  rubbing  it  well  into  the  flour,  and  use 
milk  enough  to  make  a  dough.  Flour  the  baking-board, 
and  roll  out  the  crust  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Line 
the  sides  of  a  deep  baking  dish  with  crust ;  put  in  part  of 
the  chicken,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  then  add 
the  rest  of  the  chicken,  and  season  the  same  way.  Put 
in  the  dish  two  cupfuls  of  the  broth  in  which  the 
chicken  was  boiled,  and  cover  the  top  with  crust,  making 
in  the  center  of  the  crust  a  hole  large  enough  to  admit 
of  adding  more  of  the  broth,  if  necessary.  Most  chicken 
pie  is  too  dry,  therefore  the  broth  should  be  added 
plentifully.  Bake  one  hour.  Heat  what  broth  remains, 
add  enough  flour  to  thicken  it,  wetting  the  flour  to  a 
paste  with  milk,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Send 
to  the  table  in  a  gravy  dish,  to  be  served  with  the 
pie. 

CHICKEN    PIE,    NO.    2. 

For  a  dish  holding  three  quarts  there  will  be  required 
two  chickens  that  together  will  weigh  eight  pounds.  Cut 
the  chickens  each  in  two  parts,  splitting  them  down  the 
back  and  front.  Cover  them  with  boiling  water,  and 
simmer  until  tender.  If  the  chickens  are  a  year  old, 
allow  at  least  an  hour  and  a-half  of  gentle  boiling.  Let 
the  chickens  cool  in  the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled, 
remove  the  skin,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  suitable  for 
serving.  Place  the  meat  in  the  pie  dish,  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  a  sauce  as  follows  • 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Two  slices  of  carrot. 


MEATS.  223 

One-half  an  onion. 

Three  pints  of  the  chicken  broth. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  bit  of  mace. 

One  bay-leaf. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Put  the  butter  and  flour  in  a  sauce-pan,  and  beat  until 
soft  and  creamy.  Add  the  vegetables,  spice  and  herbs 
and  the  broth,  from  which  all  the  oil  should  have  been 
removed  ;  and  heat  slowly  to  boiling  point.  When 
boiling,  set  it  where  it  will  simmer  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  strain  the  sauce  over 
the  chicken.  Next  make  the  crust  for  the  pie,  using 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  egg. 

One-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  ice  water. 

Place  the  flour,  sugar,  salt  and  butter  in  a  chopping 
tray,  and  chop  the  butter  into  the  flour  until  reduced  to 
lumps  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Mix  together  the  beaten 
egg,  lemon  juice  and  water,  and  add  the  mixture,  a  little 
at  a  time,  to  the  flour  and  butter,  chopping  all  the  time. 
When  all  the  mixture  is  used,  sprinkle  a  moulding  board 
with  flour,  and  turn  the  paste  upon  it.  Roll  the  dough 
out  and  fold  it  as  for  puff  paste.  Do  this  three  or 
four  times  and  then  set  it  on  the  ice  to  chill  before 
using.  Roll  out  this  paste,  making  it  a  little  larger 
than  the  top  of  the  pie  dish.  Cut  a  slash  in  the  center 
of  the  crust  to  allow  the  steam  to  escape,  and  lay  the 


224  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

crust  over  the  chicken,  turning  the  edge  of  the  crust 
into  the  dish.  Bake  in  a  moderately  hot  oven  for  an 
hour  and  a-quarter,  and  serve  hot. 


CHICKEN  SALAD.     (See  Salads.) 

CHICKEN    SANDWICHES. 

One  cupful  of  cold  chicken. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  eggs  (yolks  only). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  rich  stock. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  cool  them,  take  out  the 
yolks,  and  mash  them  as  fine  as  possible.  Add  to  these 
the  melted  butter  and  lemon  juice,  the  chicken  chopped 
very  fine,  and  salt,  pepper  and  the  stock.  If  the  stock 
cannot  be  conveniently  procured,  use  a  tea-spoonful  of 
Leibig's  Extract  of  Beef,  which  may  always  be  bought. 
Mix  all  well  together.  A  sort  of  paste  will  be  the  result, 
and  with  this  may  be  made  very  delicate  sandwiches  for  a 
company  late  supper,  card  party,  etc. 

CHICKEN  DISHES. 

One  is  fairly  bewildered  at  the  hundreds  of  dishes  that 
are  prepared  from  shredded  cooked  chicken  or  from  any 
left-over  pieces.  Most  of  the  chicken  entrees  are  pre- 
pared from  the  breasts  alone,  and  these  are  called  fillers. 
One  dainty  preparation  of  cold  roast  or  boiled  chicken  is 
called 


MEATS.  225 

CHICKEN  a  r  Italienne. 

One  pint  of  chicken  meat. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Twelve  drops  of  onion  juice. 
Three  hard-boiled  eggs. 
One-half  pint  of  cream  or  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Cut  the  meat  into  dice  to  measure.  Heat  the  butter 
and  stir  in  the  flour ;  then  cook  for  two  minutes,  stirring 
constantly,  and  taking  care  the  flour  does  not  brown. 
Add  the  milk  or  cream,  and  stir  until  boiling.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  and  add  the  chicken  and  seasoning.  Mix 
carefully,  and  place  the  sauce-pan  in  another  containing 
hot  water,  or  else  use  a  milk  boiler.  When  the  mixture 
is  thoroughly  heated,  remove  it  from  the  fire  and  dish. 
Boil  the  eggs  ten  minutes,  and  lay  them  in  cold  water  to 
be  ready  to  use  when  the  chicken  is  done.  Separate  the 
yolks,  and  press  them  through  the  potato-masher ;  or 
they  may  be  worked  through  a  fine  sieve,  the  latter 
being,  however,  very  slow  work.  Sprinkle  the  yolks 
thus  powdered  over  the  top  of  the  chicken,  and  serve. 
This  makes  a  very  attractive-looking  dish  and  forms  a 
palatable  entre'e  for  dinner.  Another  dish  of  this  kind  is 

BOUDIN  a  la  Reine. 

One  pint  of  chicken  meat. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonsfuls  of  dried  bread-crumbs. 
One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
One-half  cupful  of  stock  or  water. 
One-quarter  of  a  nutmeg. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
'5 


226  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Heat  the  butter,  and  add  the  crumbs  and  stock.  Re- 
move from  the  fire,  and  add  the  chicken  chopped  fine, 
the  parsley,  the  nutmeg  grated,  salt  and  pepper,  and 
lastly  the  eggs  slightly  beaten.  Mix  all  thoroughly,  and 
place  the  mixture  in  tea  or  custard  cups,  filling  the  cups 
two-thirds  full.  Half  fill  a  baking  pan  with  boiling  water, 
set  the  cups  in  the  water,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  done,  turn  the  contents  of  each 
cup  out  upon  a  heated  dish,  and  pour  around  them  a 
cream  sauce.  Remnants  of  cold  roasted  or  boiled  turkey 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

GEESE. 

These  fowls  live  to  be  very  old,  and  for  that  reason 
great  care  is  needed  in  selecting  them.  They  are  not 
good  after  they  are  three  years  old,  and  they  are  in  per- 
fection when  from  six  months  to  a  year  old.  A  young 
goose  has  down  on  its  legs,  and  the  legs  are  soft  and  yel- 
low. Like  a  turkey,  as  it  grows  old  its  legs  change  to  a 
reddish  color. 

ROAST  GOOSE,  WITH  POTATO  STUFFING. 

Clean  the  goose  as  directed  for  any  poultry,  cutting  off 
the  neck  and  arranging  the  breast  for  stuffing,  the  same 
as  for  roast  turkey.  Geese,  when  properly  dressed,  are 
always  filled  with  potato  stuffing. 

POTATO  STUFFING. 

Six  potatoes. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sage. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  onion  juice. 


MEATS.  227 

Pare  and  boil  the  potatoes,  and  mash  them  fine.  '  Add 
the  seasoning,  and  fill  the  breast  and  body  with  the 
stuffing,  laying  it  in  lightly.  Sew  and  truss  the  same  as 
directed  for  turkey,  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour, 
and  cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  fat  salt  pork.  The 
goose  is  not  a  favorite  on  account  of  the  quantity  of  oil  it 
contains  and  the  disagreeable  taste  of  the  oil.  The  pork 
fat  is  quickly  drawn  out  by  the  heat,  flows  over  the  goose 
and  aids  in  drawing  out  the  oil.  When  the  goose  has 
roasted  forty-five  minutes,  take  it  from  the  oven,  remove 
the  pork,  baste  well  with  the  oil  in  the  pan,  and  pour  off 
some  of  the  oil  if  there  should  be  a  large  quantity.  Baste 
every  fifteen  minutes  after  the  goose  has  roasted  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  minutes,  the  same  as  for  turkey.  Boil  the 
giblets,  and  make  the  gravy  as  directed  on  page  205.  If 
the  oil  is  so  much  disliked  that  it  cannot  be  used  for  the 
gravy,  make  the  following  gravy :  Place  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot,  stir  in  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  flour.  After  the  flour  has  cooked 
brown,  add  gradually  the  water  in  which  the  giblets  were 
boiled,  and  lastly  the  chopped  giblets,  adding  hot  water 
also  if  the  gravy  should  seem  too  thick.  Season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Apple  sauce  should  always  be  served 
with  roast  goose.  Goslings  may  be  roasted  in  the  same 
way,  allowing,  however,  but  fifteen  minutes  to  a  pound  for 
cooking. 

DEVILED  GOOSE. 

After  cleaning  the  goose  and  wiping  it  well  with  a 
damp  cloth,  plunge  it  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 
boil  moderately  for  one  hour.  Take  it  from  the  kettle, 
drain  well,  and  wipe  it  dry.  Fill  the  body  and  neck  with 


228  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  potato  stuffing  described  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
truss  and  sew  up  the  same  as  directed  for  roast  turkey, 
and  roast  in  a  very  hot  oven,  allowing  fifteen  minutes  to 
a  pound.  Then  mix  together 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  pepper. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  made  mustard. 

Pour  this  over  the  goose  as  it  is  put  in  the  oven,  and 
baste  frequently  with  the  liquid  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
Boil  the  giblets,  and  make  the  gravy  as  directed  for  roast 
turkey.  This  way  of  dressing  is  particularly  nice  for 
those  who  do  not  care  for  the  flavor  of  the  goose.  An 
old  goose  that  can  be  cooked  in  no  other  way  may  be  so 
dressed,  two  hours  being  allowed  for  the  boiling  instead 
of  one. 

DUCKS. 

ROAST    DUCK. 

Epicures  prefer  ducks  cooked  rare,  and  when  so  pre- 
pared they  are  not  stuffed.  Should  filling  be  preferred, 
use  the  potato  stuffing  on  page  226,  putting  it  in  very 
hot.  Many  who  consider  that  clucks  have  a  strong 
flavor  lay  apples  in  the  body,  having  them  cored  and 
quartered.  The  apples  absorb  this  flavor  and  are  re- 
moved before  the  duck  is  sent  to  the  table.  Celery  and 
onion  are  also  placed  inside  the  duck  to  season  it  and  im- 
prove the  flavor,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  onion 
being  used  to  every  cupful  of  chopped  celery,  which  may 
consist  of  the  green  stalks  that  are  not  desired  for  the 
table.  This  stuffing  is  also  removed  from  the  fowl  before 
it  is  sent  to  the  table.  Truss  the  duck,  sprinkle  it  with 


MEA  TS.  229 

salt,  pepper  and  flour,  and  roast  thirty  minutes,  provided 
the  duck  is  young  and  is  desired  rare.  Full-grown  do- 
mestic ducks  should  be  roasted  at  least  an  hour  and 
basted  every  ten  minutes. 

Make  the  giblet  gravy,  and  send  apple  sauce  or  grape 
or  currant  jelly  to  the  table  with  the  ducks.  Green  peas 
should  be  served  with  roast  duck. 

WILD   DUCKS.  / 

Nearly  all  wild  ducks  are  apt  to  have  a  fishy  flavor, 
and  when  dressed  by  an  inexperienced  cook  are  often 
unfit  to  eat.  This  flavor  may  be  much  lessened  by  plac- 
ing in  each  duck  a  small  peeled  carrot,  plunging  the  fowls 
in  boiling  water  and  boiling  them  ten  minutes  before 
roasting.  The  carrot  will  absorb  the  unpleasant  taste. 
An  onion  will  have  the  same  effect,  but  unless  onion  is 
used  in  the  stuffing,  the  carrot  is  to.be  preferred.  When 
there  is  an  objection  to  parboiling  (which  there  always 
should  be  when  very  young  ducks  are  to  be  cooked),  rub 
the  ducks  lightly  with  an  onion  cut  in  two,  and  put  three 
or  four  uncooked  cranberries  in  each  before  cooking. 

ROAST    WILD    DUCK. 

Clean  the  same  as  turkey,  wiping  both  inside  and  out 
with  a  damp  towel.  After  parboiling  or  using  the  cran- 
berries, as  directed,  tuck  back,  the  wings  and  truss  the 
legs  down  close  to  the  body.  Dust  the  fowls  with  salt, 
pepper  and  flour,  put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut in  each,  place  them  in  a  baking  pan,  and  add  a  cup- 
ful of  water.  Bake  from  forty-five  minutes  to  an  hour  if 
liked  well  done,  or  thirty  minutes  if  liked  rare,  basting 
frequently  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan.  When  done, 


230  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

thicken  the  gravy.     Wild  ducks  are  seldom  stuffed  when 
roasted. 

TO  COOK  THE  MALLARD  WILD  DUCK. 

These  ducks,  which  are  shot  in  the  West,  are  consid- 
ered very  dry  when  roasted  in  the  usual  way.  In  Kansas 
they  are  stuffed  with  the  common  bread  stuffing  well 
sewed  up  and  tied  in  shape.  They  are  then  placed 
in  a  large  kettle  with  a  couple  of  slices  of  onion 
and  a  little  thyme,  and  a  small  quantity  of  water  is 
added.  They  are  cooked  slowly  for  one  hour,  being 
turned  frequently.  The  water  should  be  replenished,  but 
only  enough  should  be  added  to  keep  the  ducks  from 
burning.  A  gravy  is  made  from  the  juices  in  the  kettle 
by  adding  a  cupful  of  water  to  them  and  thickening  with 
flour.  This  gravy  is  poured  over  the  ducks  when  served. 
Dressed  in  this  way  all  parts  are  equally  as  good  as  the 
breast,  and  the  gravy  is  not  the  least  delicious  part  of  the 
whole. 

GUINEA    FOWLS. 

Young  guinea  fowls  make  a  delicious  fricassee.  Clean 
them,  and  cut  them  in  pieces  the  same  as  chickens. 
Place  some  slices  of  fat  bacon  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
these  have  fried  long  enough  to  extract  some  of  the  oil, 
add  the  pieces  of  fowl  and  brown  them  well.  To  every 
two  fowls  add  to  the  pan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  stir 
until  thoroughly  mixed,  and  then  add  a  pint  of  hot  water, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of 
pepper,  stirring  until  the  gravy  boils.  Cover  well,  and 
simmer  in  a  gentle  heat  until  the  meat  is  tender,  which  is 
generally  in  an  hour  and  a-half.  Serve  with  the  gravy 


MEATS. 


from  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  adding  more  salt  and  pepper, 
if  needed. 

PEA    FOWLS. 

The  peacock  and  the  peahen  are  cooked  the  same  as 

turkeys. 

PHEASANTS,    PARTRIDGES,    QUAIL    AND    GROUSE. 

The  real  pheasant  is  not  sold  in  America.  The  bird 
known  by  that  name  in  the  South  is  called  a  partridge  in 
the  North,  but  is,  properly  speaking,  the  ruffled  grouse. 
The  Northern  quail  is  the  English  and  Southern  par- 
tridge. The  wild  fowls  brought  so  plentifully  from  the 
West  to  Eastern  cities  and  called  prairie  fowls  are  a 
species  of  grouse.  The  methods  of  cooking  all  these 
birds  are  substantially  the  same.  They  should  never  be 
washed,  but  simply  wiped  with  a  damp  towel,  all  shot 
being  carefully  picked  out  of  the  flesh  with  a  sharp- 
pointed  knife.  Partridges  are  cooked  in  forty  minutes 
and  quail  in  ten. 

ROASTED. 

Clean,  truss  and  stuff  the  birds  the  same  as  turkey,  and 
bake  until  brown,  basting  often  with  butter  and  water. 
Thicken  the  gravy,  and  pour  it  over  the  birds. 

BROILED. 

Clean  the  birds  and  split  them  down  the  back. 
Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  dust  with  flour  to  keep  in 
the  juices,  and  broil  in  a  wire  broiler,  laying  the  inside 
to  the  fire  first.  When  clone,  lay  them  on  a  warm  dish, 
butter  them  on  both  sides,  and  serve.  During  the  broil- 


232  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

ing,  if  the  breasts  are  quite  thick,  cover  the  broiler  with 
a  pan,  and  see  that  the  fire  is  not  too  fierce.  Broiled 
quail  are  considered  very  nourishing  food  for  invalids. 

PANNED. 

Clean,  and  split  the  birds  down  the  back.  -  Dip  them 
quickly  in  cold  water,  and  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and 
flour.  The  water  causes  the  seasoning  to  adhere  more 
thickly  to  the  meat.  Place  the  birds  in  a  small  baking- 
dish,  with  the  inside  of  each  upward ;  place  a  small 
piece  of  butter  in  each  bird,  add  a  cupful  of  water,  and 
roast  in  the  oven,  basting  every  five  minutes  after  the 
first  fifteen.  Thicken  the  gravy,  add  salt  and  pepper,  if 
necessary,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the  birds. 

SMALL  BIRDS. 

Nearly  all  small  birds  are  served  with  their  heads  on, 
these  being  skinned  when  the  birds  are  cleaned.  There 
is  a  difference  of  opinion  among  epicures  as  to  the  draw- 
ing of  these  birds,  many  cooking  them  undrawn.  The 
English  do  not  draw  woodcock,  regarding  the  trail  as  not 
the  least  delicious  part  of  the  bird  ;  and  some  American 
housekeepers  copy  them  in  this  respect.  It  seems,  how- 
ever, that  in  time  the  custom  of  eating  entrails  (a  relic 
of  barbarism)  and  of  serving  birds  without  first  removing 
their  heads  will  become  obsolete. 

SNIPE,    ROASTED. 

Clean  and  truss,  but  do  not  stuff  the  birds,  and  lay 
them  in  rows  in  a  baking-pan  ;  sprinkle  with  salt,  and 
baste  well  with  butter  and  water.  When  they  begin  to 
brown,  which  should  be  in  ten  minutes,  cut  as  many  slices 


MEATS.  233  ' 

of  bread  as  there  are  birds,  round  the  slices,  cutting  off 
the  crusts,  toast  them  quickly,  and  butter  lightly  while 
hot.  Slip  a  slice  of  toast  under  each  bird  in  the  baking- 
pan,  and  bake  the  remaining  five  minutes,  basting  the 
birds  with  melted  butter.  Place  them  on  the  platter, 
with  the  toast  under  them ;  then  thicken  what  gravy 
there  may  be  in  the  pan,  adding  a  little  water  to  it ; 
and  pour  it  over  the  snipe  and  toast.  The  largest  snipe 
will  not  require  more  than  twenty  minutes  cooking,  if  the 
oven  is  hot  enough. 

SNIPE,    FRIED. 

Clean  the  birds,  and  wipe  them  dry  ;  tie  the  legs  close 
to  the  body,  skin  the  head,  after  picking  the  feathers  off 
as  near  the  head  as  possible,  and  tie  the  beak  of  each 
bird  under  one  of  its  wings,  tying  also  a  thin  slice  of 
bacon  around  each  breast.  Place  the  birds  in  a  frying- 
basket,  and  fry  in  plenty  of  hot  fat  until  of  a  delicate 
brown.  This  should  not  take  over  five  minutes*  if  the 
fat  is  as  hot  as  it  should  be.  Season,  and  serve  on 
toast. 

WOODCOCK. 

This  is  the  most  delicious  of  the  small  birds  and  may 
be  roasted,  panned  or  broiled  the  same  as  pheasants. 
Among  epicures  a  favorite  dish  is  known  as 

BARDED    WOODCOCK. 

Remove  the  crop,  skin  the  head,  and  take  out  the  eyes ; 
scald  the  feet  and  legs,  and  skin  them  as  high  as  the 
first  joint.  Draw  the  bird  or  not,  as  may  be  preferred. 
Sprinkle  well  with  salt,  and,  drawing  the  head  down 


234  THE  PATTERN 

to  the  feet,  wrap  the  bird  in  a  thin  slice  of  clear  salt 
pork ;  run  a  skewer  through  to  keep  the  pork,  head 
and  feet  in  position,  and  run  from  three  to  six  birds 
on  each  skewer.  Rub  soft  butter  over  the  parts  not 
covered  by  the  pork,  and  dredge  all  with  flour.  Place 
toasted  bread  under  each  bird  in  the  baking-pan,  as 
described  for  roasted  snipe,  rest  the  ends  of  the  skewers 
on  the  edges  of  the  pan,  place  the  latter  in  a  very 
hot  oven,  and  cook  ten  minutes — fifteen,  if  the  oven 
is  not  extra  hot.  On  removing  the  pan  from  the  oven, 
draw  out  the  skewer  gently,  slip  each  bird  on  its  slice  of 
toast,  and  serve  very  hot,  pouring  the  gravy  from  the 
pan  over  all.  Any  small  birds  may  be  cooked  in  this 
way. 

SMALL    BIRDS,  ROASTED    IN    POTATOES. 

Halve  sweet  potatoes  lengthwise,  and  scrape  out  the 
inside,  making  a  place  large  enough  in  each  half  to  hold 
half  the  bird.  Clean  and  draw  the  birds,  cutting  off 
heads  and  legs,  the  same  as  directed  for  turkey.  Place 
a  piece  of  butter  in  each  bird,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, spread  them  with  butter,  and  place  them  in  the  po- 
tato shells,  tying  a  string  around  each  potato  to  hold 
the  pieces  together.  Roast  in  a  baking-pan,  and  serve  in 
the  potatoes. 

PIGEONS. 

These  are  drawn,  singed  and  roasted  or  broiled  the 
same  as  chickens. 

SQUABS. 

Squabs  are  broiled  or  roasted  whole  the  same  as  wood- 
cock, and  are  very  delicious  when  carefully  prepared. 


MEATS.  235 

RABBITS. 

The  tame  rabbit  is  rarely  if  ever  eaten.  The  "old 
hare"  of  the  South  is  the  same  as  the  rabbit  of  the  North, 
and  when  fat  and  tender,  may  be  made  into  a  variety  of 
dishes.  The  wild  rabbit  of  America  is  almost  equal  in 
flavor  to  the  English  hare  and  may  be  dressed  in  the 
same  way. 

JUGGED    RABBIT. 

Have  the  rabbit  skinned  by  the  butcher,  draw  it,  and 
wash  quickly.  Cut  it  into  pieces  and  roll  each  piece  in 
flour.  Heat  half  a  cupful. of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
put  in  the  meat  to  brown  well  on  all  sides.  Then  remove 
the  meat,  and  place  it  in  a  sauce-pan.  Put  in  the  fat  in 
the  frying-pan  two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  until 
brown,  add  three  cupfuls  of  water,  cook  ten  minutes 
and  pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat  in  the  stew-pan.  Now 
add  salt,  pepper,  a  little  spice  and  a  small  onion,  uncut. 
Cover  closely,  simmer  an  hour  and  a-half,  and  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice,  a  table-spoonful  of  mush- 
room ketchup  (or  any  other  kind  that  may  be  at  hand) 
and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry  wine.  Serve  at  once, 
and  send  with  it  to  the  table  a  dish  of  boiled  rice.  The 
wine  may  be  omitted,  but  it  adds  greatly  to  the  flavor. 

FRICASSEED    RABBIT. 

This  is  prepared  the  same  as  fricasseed  chicken,  either 
white  or  brown. 

FRIED    RABBITS. 

Cut  the  rabbits  in  pieces,  as  for  fricassee,  dip  each 
piece  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  cracker  dust,  and  fry 
brown  in  plenty  of  hot  fat. 


236  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

SQUIRRELS. 

The  large  gray  squirrel  is  seldom  eaten  at  the  North, 
but  is  much  liked  in  the  Southern  States.  Squirrels  are 
cooked  the  same  as  rabbits,  or  are  made  into  the  popular 
dish  known  as 

BRUNSWICK    STEW. 

This  is  named  from  a  county  in  Virginia  and  is  a  favor- 
ite dish  in  that  section  of  the  country. 

Two  large  squirrels. 

One  quart  of  tomato,  peeled  and  sliced. 

One  pint  of  butter  beans  or  limas: 

One  and  one-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar. 

One  onion,  minced  small. 

Six  potatoes. 

Six  ears  of  corn,  cut  from  the  cob. 

One-half  pound  of  butter. 

One-half  pound  of  salt  pork. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Four  quarts  of  water. 

Cut  the  squirrels  in  pieces,  as  for  a  fricassee.  Add 
the  salt  to  the  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Put  in  the 
onion,  beans,  corn,  pork,  potato,  pepper  and  the  squirrels. 
Cover  closely,  and  stew  two  hours  ;  then  add  the  sugar 
and  tomato,  and  stew  one  hour  more.  Ten  minutes  be- 
fore removing  the  stew  from  the  fire,  add  the  butter,  cut 
into  pieces  the  size  of  a  walnut  and  rolled  in  flour.  Boil 
up  again,  adding  more  salt  and  pepper  if  needed,  and 
turn  into  a  tureen.  This  is  to  be  eaten  from  soup  plates. 


MEATS,  237 

VENISON. 

The  taste  for  this  meat  is  certainly  an  acquired  one, 
but  there  is  much  to  recommend -the  cultivation  of  it, 
since  venison  is  one  of  the  most  easily  digested  of  meats. 
The  meat  should  be  of  fine  grain  and  nicely  covered  with 
fat.  If  the  venison  is  young,  the  hoof  will  be  but  slightly 
opened ;  if  old,  the  hoof  will  be  wide  open.  Venison, 
like  all  game,  is  not  usually  fat  enough,  and  is  always 
enriched  by  larding,  or  by  placing  slices  of  fat  salt  pork 
or  bacon  over  it.  The  fat  and  juices  are  sometimes  kept 
in  by  a  thick  layer  of  flour  paste.  Venison  should  al- 
ways be  well  wiped  before  cooking,  as  the  hairs  are  often 
found  clinging  to  the  meat. 

ROAST    LEG   OF    VENISON. 

Wipe  carefully,  and  draw  off  the  dry  skin.  Lard  the 
lean  side  of  the  leg  ;  then  soften  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of 
butter,  rub  it  over  the  meat,  and  dredge  with  salt,  pepper 
and  flour.  Lay  the  leg  on  the  rack  in  the  baking-pan, 
sprinkle  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  flour,  place  it  in  a 
very  hot  oven,  and  watch  carefully  until  the  flour  in  the 
pan  is  browned,  which  should  be  in  five  minutes.  Add 
boiling  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  after 
roasting  fifteen  minutes,  baste  the  venison  well,  and  re- 
peat the  basting  every  fifteen  minutes  until  the  meat  is 
done,  renewing  the  water  in  the  pan  as  often  as  neces- 
sary. Should  the  meat  be  liked  very  rare,  allow  for  a 
ten-pound  roast,  an  hour  and  a-quarter  of  cooking;  but 
most  tastes  require  at  least  fifteen  minutes  longer  than 
that.  Serve  with  a  gravy  made  from  the  juices  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  the  same  as  that  for  roast  beef,  send- 


238  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

ing  the  gravy  to  table  in  a  gravy-boat.  Always  serve 
currant  jelly  with  venison.  The  oven  must  be  very  hot 
the  first  half-hour,  and  after  that  the  heat  may  be  lessened 
somewhat. 

THE    SADDLE   OF  VENISON. 

The  saddle  is,  perhaps,  the  most  distinguished  cut  of 
venison  and  is  roasted  the  same  as  the  leg. 

VENISON    STEAKS. 

These  are  broiled  rare  the  same  as  beefsteak. 

VENISON,    ROLLED. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  stuffed  beefsteak. 

Game  should  not  be  kept  too  long. 

Venison  may  be  hung  three  weeks  in  cold  weather,  but 
birds  should  rarely  be  hung  longer  than  one  week.  If 
birds  are  to  be  kept  many  days,  draw  but  do  not  pick 
them,  place  a  piece  of  charcoal  in  the  body,  and  sift 
powdered  charcoal  into  the  feathers. 


VEGETABLES. 

"  Cheerful  looks  makes  every  dish  a  feast." 

MASSINGER. 

WE  need  a  large  variety  of  vegetables  in  our  food  to 
promote  perfect  health.  Vegetables  are  rich  in  saline 
substances,  which  counteract  the  evil  effect  of  too  much 
animal  food ;  and  those  that  contain  starch  and  albumen 
and  can  be  stored  for  use  during  the  winter  months  are 
considered  the  most  valuable.  Peas,  beans,  squashes, 
beets  and  turnips,  which  contain  sugar,  should  be  slightly 
sweetened,  as  much  of  the  natural  sweetness  is  lost  in 
the  cooking.  Those  that  contain  potash  salts,  as  cab- 
bage and  lettuce,  need  an  acid  condiment.  When  peas, 
beans  and  other  vegetables  are  found  difficult  of  diges- 
tion, they  may  often  be  eaten  safely  if  made  in  the  form 
of  a  puree. 

All  green  vegetables  should  be  freshly  gathered, 
washed  well  in  cold  water,  and  cooked  in  freshly  boiled 
water  until  tender,  but  no  longer. 

After  water  has  boiled  for  a  time,  it  parts  with  its 
gases  and  becomes  hard ;  and  most  vegetables  are  better 
cooked  in  soft  water.  It  is  well  known  that  split  peas, 
dried  beans  and  lentils  will  not  boil  soft  in  hard  water. 
In  some  cases,  however,  the  solvent  power  o'f  pure  soft 

239 


240  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

water  is  so  great  that  it  destroys  the  firmness,  color  and 
skin  of  some  of  the  green  vegetables,  so  that  their  juices 
pass  out  into  the  water.  This  is  especially  true  of  green 
peas  and  beans  ;  and  in  such  cases  hard  water  is  better 
than  soft.  A  tea-spoonful  of  common  salt  added  to  every 
four  quarts  of  water  hardens  it  at  once,  while  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda  placed  in  the  same  quan- 
tity of  water  renders  it  soft.  French  cooks  recommend 
half  a  tea-spooonful  of  ammonia  for  the  latter  purpose. 
Young,  green  vegetables,  therefore,  should  be  cooked  in 
boiling  salted  water.  Onions,  if  boiled  in  soft  water,  are 
almost  tasteless,  and  no  after  salting  can  restore  the 
sweet  saline  taste  and  aroma  which  they  possess  when 
boiled  in  hard  (salted)  water.  If  green  vegetables  are 
wilted,  soak  them  for  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Do  not  add 
salt,  as  it  hardens  the  tissues. 

Peas,  beans  and  lentils  are  the  most  nutritious  of  vege- 
table substances.  They  are  said  to  contain  as  much 
carbon  (heat-giving  food)  as  wheat,  and  almost  double 
the  amount  of  nitrogen  (muscle-forming  food).  Lentils 
are  almost  unknown  in  this  country,  except  to  the  Ger- 
mans, who  use  them  for  soup,  which,  though  made 
entirely  without  meat,  is  most  nutritious.  Lentils  afford 
the  most  concentrated  form  of  vegetable  diet,  and  in 
olden  times  their  value  was  fully  appreciated.  Esau  sold 
his  birthright,  we  are  told,  for  a  mess  of  lentil  pottage, 
and  we  read  that  the  pyramids  were  built  by  men  who 
lived  on  lentils,  garlic  and  water.  In  the  time  of  Pha- 
raoh lentils  were  considered  a  dish  to  be  served  to  per- 
sons of  distinction.  It  is  much  to  be  deplored  that  we, 
as  a  people,  do  not  use  this  vegetable  freely. 

Vegetables  that    have  been  stored   in  the  autumn  for 


VEGETABLES.  241 

winter  use  become  much  wilted  as  the  season  advances. 
Carrots,  turnips,  potatoes,  onions  and  cabbage  that  were 
crisp  and  delicate  at  first  get  strong-flavored  as  well  as 
withered  and  dried.  These  should  stand  several  hours 
in  cold  water  before  being  cooked  and  should  then  be 
boiled  in  four  times  their  quantity  of  water.  Cooking  in 
insufficient  water  will  make  them  dark  and  give  them  a 
very  unpleasant  flavor. 

Lettuce  that  has  become  wilted  will  brighten  if  laid 
in  ice-water.  Celery  that  seems  unfit  for  use  may  be 
made  quite  fresh  again  by  being  laid  in  a  pan  of  luke- 
warm water,  which  will  then  be  set  upon  the  ice,  or  out- 
doors, if  the  weather  is  cold,  to  gradually  cool.  When 
thoroughly  cold  the  celery  will  be  crisp  and  fresh. 
Celery  that  is  so  wilted  that  it  may  actually  be  tied 
in  a  knot  has  been  revived  most  effectually  by  this 
method. 

Rice,  hominy  and  macaroni  are  wisely  used  as  vegeta- 
bles during  the  winter  and  early  spring. 

PROPER   VEGETABLES    TO    SERVE   WITH   MEATS. 

Housekeepers  are  often  perplexed  about  the  choice  of 
a  vegetable  to  accompany  various  kinds  of  meat  and  fish. 
In  American  families  of  moderate  means  the  dinner 
seldom  consists  of  more  than  three  courses,  and  in  very 
many  cases  there  are  but  two,  the  meat  and  .vegetables 
and  the  dessert.  In  such  a  dinner  several  kinds  of  vege- 
tables may  be  used,  whereas  in  a  dinner  of  several 
courses  only  one  or,  at  the  most,  two  kinds  of  veg- 
etables should  be  provided  with  each  dish  of  meat  or 
fish. 
16 


242  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

FISH. 

With  fish  may  be  served  potatoes  and  tomatoes  in  any 
form  ;  also  cucumbers,  onions  and  green  peas.  If  the 
fish  is  prepared  with  curry  sauce  as  an  accompaniment, 
rice  should  also  be  served ;  if  dressed  with  a  cream 
sauce,  any  kind  of  potatoes,  except  fried,  will  be  appro- 
priate. Fish  is  so  delicate  that  a  vegetable  of  pro- 
nounced flavor  should  never  be  served  with  it.  Therefore 
onions  should  be  made  as  dainty  as  possible  by  being 
boiled  in  a  large  quantity  of  water,  which  should  be 
changed  several  times  ;  they  may  then  be  drained  and  a 
cream  sauce  added.  It  used  to  be  the  fashion  to  serve 
nothing  with  fish,  but  bread,  potatoes  in  some  dainty 
form,  and  green  peas  are  now  always  provided  with  it. 

ROAST    BEEF    AND    BEEFSTEAK. 

These  are  the  only  meats  that  have  not  some  really 
distinctive  vegetable  to  accompany  them.  For  this  rea- 
son any  variety  may  be  served  with  them. 

CORNED    BEEF. 

There  are  some  vegetables  which  appear  almost  indis- 
pensable -with  corned  beef,  such  as  potatoes,  turnips, 
cabbage,  beets  and  carrots.  There  are,  however,  several 
substitutes  for  cabbage,  among  them  being  spinach,  beet 
greens,  Brussels-sprouts,  dandelions  and  lettuce ;  and 
Kohl-rabi  may  take  the  place  of  turnips.  Parsnips  and 
sweet  potatoes  are  also  good  with  corned  beef. 

MUTTON    AND    LAMB. 

There  may  be  about  as  great  a  variety  of  vegetables 
served  with  these  meats  as  with  beef,  but  roast  lamb  is 


VEGETABLES.  243 

more  frequently  eaten  with  green  peas  and  lettuce  than 
with  anything  else. 

PORK. 

With  roast  pork  may  be  provided  white  or  sweet  pota- 
toes, squash,  onions,  turnips,  carrots,  okra,  parsnips, 
tomatoes,  spinach,  cauliflower,  Brussels-sprouts,  Kohl- 
rabi, salsify,  rice  or  hominy.  Always  serve  a  dish  of 
apple  sauce  with  pork. 

VEAL. 

Roast  or  braised  veal  is  most  appropriately  accompa- 
nied by  young  carrots,  white  turnips  or  spinach.  Among 
other  vegetables  that  are  also  often  served  with  this  meat 
are  fresh  peas,  beans,  asparagus,  okra,  tomatoes,  dande- 
lion, lettuce,  parsnips,  creamed  cabbage,  young  beets  or 
beet  greens. 

POULTRY  AND   GAME. 

With  boiled  or  roasted  turkey  or  chicken  should  be 
eaten  potatoes,  cauliflower,  turnips,  stewed  celery,  onions, 
macaroni  or  parsnips.  Game  of  all  kinds  should  be  so 
cooked  and  served  that  its  natural  flavor  will  be  in  no 
way  disguised.  For  this  reason  the  sauces  and  vegeta- 
bles should  combine  in  a  pleasing  way  with  the  game 
flavor.  Celery  is  always  excellent  and  may  be  served 
plain,  stewed,  with  a  white  sauce  or  with  mayonnaise 
dressing.  At  a  dinner  of  many  courses  it  is  customary 
to  serve  with  the  game  a  sauce,  a  salad — almost  always  an 
uncooked  vegetable — and  bread.  Among  the  vegetables 
that  are  good  with  any  kind  of  game  are  green  peas, 
French  beans,  sweet  potatoes,  tomatoes  either  stuffed, 


244  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

broiled  or  in  a  salad,  white  potatoes  as  croquettes  or 
puffs  or  fried  in  balls,  cauliflower  cooked  au  gratin,  and 
spinach  a  la  creme ;  and  some  care  for  stuffed  olives  as  an 
accompaniment  of  wild  duck.  Unless  an  olive  sauce  is 
used,  olives  may  be  served  with  this  game,  but  they  must 
be  omitted  if  the  sauce  is  provided.  For  roast  goose  the 
vegetables  are  not  numerous.  Onions  and  potatoes  are 
considered  necessary,  and  so  is  apple  sauce.  Sweet  pota- 
toes, squash,  rice,  turnips  and  beans  are  also  appropriate 
with  roast  goose. 

In  arranging  a  bill  of  fare,  avoid  placing  two  similar 
vegetables  in  the  same  course.  The  common  vegetables 
that  are  more  or  less  alike  may  be  classified  as  follows : 

1.  Cabbage,    chicory,  spinach,  lettuce,  endive,  dande- 
lion, cauliflower,  beet  greens,  Brussels-sprouts* 

2.  Turnips,  salsify,  Kohl-rabi. 

3.  Squash,  sweet  potatoes. 

4.  Shelled  peas  and  beans. 

5.  Rice,  hominy,  macaroni,  white  potatoes. 

Thus,  if  squash  be  served,  sweet  potatoes  should  not 
appear  in  the  same  course ;  or  if  turnips  be  served, 
salsify  should  not. 

POTATOES. 

The  potato  is  more  generally  used  than  any  other 
vegetable.  It  contains  but  little  muscle-forming  food  and 
is  composed  three-fourths  of  water,  the  other  fourth  con- 
sisting largely  of  starch.  In  the  spring  sprouts  begin  to 
grow  at  the  expense  of  the  starch,  and  if  allowed  to 
remain,  they  soon  exhaust  all  there  is  of  good  in  the  po- 
tato ;  hence  they  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  they 
appear.  The  majority  of  housekeepers  do  not  understand 


VEGETABLES.  24$ 

the  characteristics  of  this  vegetable.  It  may  be  soaked 
in  water  for  twelve  or  more  hours  before  being  cooked 
and  will  be  improved  rather  than  injured  by  the  process, 
but  let  it  stand  in  but  little  moisture  after  it  is  cooked 
and  it  will  soon  be  spoiled.  The  starch  in  the  raw 
potato  does  not  unite  with  moisture,  but  as  soon  as  it  is 
cooked  it  absorbs  water  like  a  sponge.  A  good  potato 
will  be  light  and  mealy  when  boiled  or  baked,  but  if  the 
cooking  be  continued  too  long,  the  potato  will  become 
dark,  heavy  and  strong-flavored.  If  potatoes  are  desired 
for  warming  over  or  for  a  salad,  they  should  not  be  very 
mealy.  New  potatoes,  being  rather  moist,  are  to  be  pre- 
ferred for  these  two  purposes  ;  but  potatoes  that  are  to 
be  used  in  either  of  these  two  ways,  and  that  are  usually 
mealy  when  boiled,  may  be  greatly  improved  by  taking 
them  from  the  water  when  a  little  underdone. 

BOILED    POTATOES. 

There  are  so  many  ways  of  boiling  potatoes  that  it  is 
really  difficult  to  satisfy  one's  mind  which  is  the  best, 
each  mode  being  good,  provided  it  is  properly  followed. 
The  French  hold  that  by  using  too  much  water  the  flavor 
of  the  potatoes  becomes  seriously  impaired,  but  American 
cooks  always  cover  them  well  with  water  during  the  boil- 
ing. Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  wash  and  scrub 
them  well,  and  pare  them  or  not,  as  may  be  desired. 
Potatoes  that  are  not  prime  and  have  any  indication  of 
worm  holes  or  decay  should  always  be  pared  and  these 
blemishes  removed.  Let  the  potatoes  soak  an  hour  in 
cold  water,  place  them  in  a  kettle,  and  cover  with  boiling 
water,  adding  a  table-spoonful  of  salt  to  every  eight 
potatoes  after  they  have  been  boiling  fifteen  minutes. 


246  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

They  should  boil  only  moderately,  else  the  outside  will 
be  broken  before  the  center  is  cooked,  which  never  hap- 
pens except  when  the  boiling  has  been  too  strong.  Pota- 
toes should  be-  done  in  thirty-five  minutes.  When  tender, 
pour  off  all  the  water,  and  set  the  kettle  on  the  back  part 
of  the  range,  with  the  cover  half  off  to  let  the  steam 
escape.  Serve  very  hot.  If  the  potatoes  are  to  be  kept 
any  length  of  time,  cover  the  kettle  with  a  folded  towel 
after  pouring  off  the  water. 

MASHED    POTATOES. 

Pare  the  potatoes  carefully,  and  boil  as  above  directed. 
If  they  are  very  mealy  when  done,  drain  the  water  from 
them  and  mash  at  once.  If  they  do  not  seem  mealy,  set 
them  for  a  moment  with  the  cover  off  the  kettle,  and  they 
will  soon  be  ready  for  the  mashing.  Mash  them  well, 
and  to  every  quart  of  potatoes  add 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Hot  milk  or  cream  to  moisten. 

Mash  the  potatoes  in  the  kettle  in  which  they  were 
boiled,  beat  them  with  a  fork  or  spoon  until  light  and 
creamy  and  turn  out  lightly  in  the  warmed  serving  dish. 
Do  not  smooth  the  potatoes,  as  that  will  make  them  com- 
pact and  heavy.  By  using  the  masher  illustrated  on 
page  32,  potatoes  may  be  made  very  light. 

BAKED     POTATOES. 

As  the  potato  contains  potash,  which  is  an  important 
constituent  of  the  blood  and  is  freely  given  off  in  the 


VE  GE  TA  BLES.  247 

water  in  boiling,  potatoes  are  much  more  wholesome 
when  baked.  Wash  them  well,  place  them  in  a  baking- 
pan,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven  for  from  thirty  to  forty-five 
minutes.  As  all  ovens  do  not  bake  alike,  it  is  impossible 
to  give  the  exact  length  of  time  required.  Shake  the  pan 
at  the  end  of  twenty  minutes  to  turn  the  potatoes. 
When  they  may  be  mashed  in  the  hands  they  are  done. 
Do  not  pierce  them  with  a  fork,  as  that  allows  the  escape 
of  the  steam  and  makes  the  potato  heavy  ;  and  serve  as 
soon  as  baked  for  the  same  reason. 

PRINCESS    POTATOES. 

One  pint  of  mashed  potatoes. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

One  egg,  well  beaten. 

Cut  the  potato  into  strips  two  inches  long,  one  inch 
wide  and  half  an  inch  thick  ;  or,  if  hurried,  the  potatoes 
may  be  made  into  flat  balls  half  an  inch  thick.  Dip  the 
strips  or  balls  first  into  the  melted  butter  and  then  into 
the  egg,  and  lay  them  with  a  knife  in  a  lightly  buttered 
tin  pan.  Cook  in  a  hot  oven  for  twelve  minutes,  and 
serve. 

POTATO    FRITTERS. 

Five  cold  boiled  potatoes. 

Five  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Grate  the  potatoes.  Mix  the  flour,  baking  powder  and 
salt  well  together,  and  add  the  potato,  mixing  as  lightly 
as  possible.  Add  the  milk,  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten. 


248  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Have  ready  a  kettle  containing  boiling  lard  to  the 
depth  of  three  inches.  Drop  in  the  mixture  by  spoon- 
fuls, and  fry  eight  minutes.  Drain  well,  and  serve.  The 
fat  should  be  so  hot  that  blue  smoke  rises  from  the 
center  of  tne  kettle. 

CREAMED  POTATO,  WITH  PARSLEY. 

One  quart  of  potatoes. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Use  for  this  purpose  cold  boiled  potatoes,  chopped 
rather  coarsely  andjneasured  after  chopping.  Put  them 
in  a  stew-pan  with  the  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  and  when 
the  whole  is  well  mixed,  add  the  milk.  Set  the  stew-pan 
in  another  containing  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the 
mixture  is  boiling  hot,  usually  fifteen  minutes.  Then  add 
the  butter  and  parsley.  Take  the  stew-pan  from  the 
water,  and  set  it  where  the  potatoes  will  boil  up  once ; 
then  add  more  salt  and  pepper,  if  needed,  and  serve. 

OMELET   OF   POTATO. 

Nine  potatoes  of  medium  size. 
One-third  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  a  cupful  of  hot  milk. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  boil  and  mash  them  until  fine  and 
light,  and  add  salt,  pepper,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
butter,  and  gradually  the  hot  milk,  beating  all  the 


VE  GE  TA  BLES,  249 

time.  Put  the  remaining  spoonful  of  butter  in  a  large 
frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot,  turn  in  the  potatoes, 
spreading  them  smoothly.  Cover  the  pan  and  set  it 
where  its  contents  will  brown  slowly  and  evenly.  When 
done  (generally  in  about  ten  minutes),  fold  the  potatoes 
the  same  as  an  omelet,  turn  them  out  upon  a  hot  dish, 

and  serve. 

POTATOES  au  Gratin. 

One  quart  of  cold  potatoes. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter,  and  add  the  flour.  When  the  mixture 
is  smooth  and  frothy,  draw  the  pan  to  a  cooler  part  of  the 
range,  and  add  the  milk  gradually  and  then  the  salt  and 
pepper.  Butter  a  granite-ware  or  stone-china  platter,  and 
spread  upon  it  the  cold  potato  cut  into  cubes.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  sprinkle  with  the  parsley. 
Cover  the  potatoes  with  the  cream  sauce,  and  bake  in  the 
oven  for  twelve  minutes.  The  cubes  should  be  slightly 
browned  when  served. 

POTATO    BALLS. 

These  are  generally  served  with  fish.  With  a  vegetable 
scoop,  cut  two  quarts  of  balls  out  of  raw  potatoes,  boil 
them  twelve  minutes,  and  drain.  Add  to  them 

One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper 
One  table-spoonful  of  parsley. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 


250  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Chop  the  parsley  fine,  stir  all  the  seasoning  into  the 
balls,  and  serve  at  once. 

POTATOES    ROASTED   WITH    MEAT. 

This  is  a  favorite  way  of  cooking  potatoes  when  veal, 
pork  or  beef  is  to  be  roasted.  They  should  not,  how- 
ever, be  dry,  hard  and  pale-colored,  but  soft  and  well 
browned.  The  potatoes  should  not  be  small,  else  they 
will  bake  dry  and  crusty.  Pare  the  potatoes,  boil  them 
fifteen  minutes,  and  drain  well.  Then  place  them  in  the 
baking-pan  with  the  roast,  and  cook  for  forty-five  minutes, 
turning  them  often  and  basting  with  the  gravy  from  the 
roast.  Serve  them  arranged  about  the  meat.  Some 
cooks  do  not  parboil  the  potatoes  before  putting  them  in 
the  pan,  but  the  result  is  not  so  successful,  especially 
when  beef  is  roasting,  which  requires  so  much  less  time 
for  cooking  than  either  veal,  pork  or  mutton. 

STUFFED    POTATOES. 

Bake  potatoes  of  equal  size,  and  when  they  are  done 
and  still  hot,  cut  a  small  piece  from  one  end  of  each  and 
carefully  scoop  out  the  inside,  leaving  the  skin  unbroken. 
Mash  the  potato  well,  seasoning  it  with  plenty  of  butter, 
salt  and  pepper ;  then  return  it  with  a  small  spoon  to  the 
skinsr  leaving  the  potato  protruding  about  an  inch  beyond 
the  skin.  Set  the  potato  on  the  opposite  end,  crushing 
it  a  little  to  make  it  stand  firmly.  When  enough  skins 
are  filled  roughen  the  potato  that  projects  above  the  skin 
with  a  knife  or  a  fork,  and  place  the  potatoes  in  a  very 
hot  oven  to  lightly  brown  the  top.  They  should  look 
when  done  like  baked  potatoes  burst  open. 


VEGETABLES.  2$l 

SARATOGA   CHIPS. 

It  requires  a  little  plane  or  vegetable  cutter  to  slice 
potatoes  intended  to  be  cooked  in  this  way.  Ripe,  new 
potatoes  are  to  be  preferred  if  they  can  be  obtained. 
Pare  the  potatoes,  and  shave  them  with  the  cutter  into 
slices  thinner  than  a  wafer.  Place  the  slices  immediately 
in  ice  water,  cutting  them  over  a  bowl  of  ice  water,  if  it 
can  be  done  conveniently,  so  the  slices  will  reach  the 
water  without  any  delay.  Let  them  soak  ten  minutes, 
take  out  a  few  slices  at  a  time,  and  dry  them  well  with  a 
soft  towel.  Have  ready  a  kettle  of  boiling  hot  lard, 
throw  in  the  slices,  a  few  at  a  time,  and  stir  them  with  a 
skimmer  or  spoon,  to  keep  them  separated.  The  pota- 
toes must  color  quickly,  but  the  fat  must  not  be  so  hot  as 
to  give  them  a  dark  appearance.  When  of  a  light-brown, 
take  them  out,  and  place  them  on  a  piece  of  soft  brown 
paper  in  a  colander;  dredge  with  salt  and  set  them  in  the 
open  oven  to  keep  warm  while  the  rest  of  the  chips  are 
frying.  Turn  the  first  lot  from  the  colander  into  a  hot 
dish,  skim  out  the  second  frying  and  place  them  in  the 
colander;  and  so  continue  until  all  are  fried.  Two  pota- 
toes fried  in  this  way  will  make  a  large  dishful,  and  they 
may  be  served  cold  if  desired.  Saratoga  Chips  make  a 
convenient  dish  for  a  company  dinner,  as  they  may  be 
made  early  in  the  day;  but  they  must  be  kept  in  a  dry 
place  that  the  slices  may  remain  crisp  and  nice.  They 
also  make  a  pretty  garnish  around  game  or  meat  of  any 
kind.  In  the  large  cities  they  are  sold  by  the  pound, 
already  fried  and  put  up  in  neat  boxes. 

FRENCH    FRIED    POTATOES. 

These  potatoes  must  be  served  the  moment  they  are 


252  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-B OOK. 

ready.  They  are  sliced  rather  thin  or  else  cut  with  a 
vegetable  spoon  or  into  blocks  or  rhomboidal  shapes. 
Let  the  pieces  stand  one  hour  in  cold  water.  Have 
ready  a  frying-pan  of  very  hot  lard,  dry  the  slices  of  po- 
tato quickly  on  a  towel,  and  drop  them  into  the  lard. 
Take  them  out  with  a  skimmer  when  done,  and  place 
them  in  a  colander  set  on  a  tin  plate  in  the  open  oven,  to 
keep  warm  while  the  rest  of  the  potatoes  are  frying. 
When  all  are  done,  sprinkle  with  salt,  and  serve  very  hot. 
When  intended  to  garnish  boiled  or  baked  fish,  the  pota- 
toes are  cut  in  rather  thick  slices  and  then  formed  into 
pretty  shapes  with  the  vegetable  cutter. 

FRIED   POTATOES. 

Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  slices  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  fry  them  in  a  frying-pan  in  a  very  little 
lard,  browning  both'  sides  of  the  slices.  Add  more  lard 
as  needed,  and  season  the  potatoes  with  salt  and  pepper 
after  frying. 

POTATO    PUFF. 

Two  cupfuls  of  cold  mashed  potato. 

Two  eggs. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  tea-cupful  of  milk. 

Mash  the  potato  well,  and  add  the  butter  when  melted. 
Stir  to  a  white  cream,  and  add  the  eggs  beaten  very 
lightly,  and  then  the  milk  and  the  seasoning.  Beat  all 
well  together,  and  bake  in  a  deep  dish  until  nicely 
browned.  The  potatoes  should  come  from  the  oven  light 
and  puffy. 


VEGETABLES.  2$$ 

LYONNAISE    POTATOES. 

One  pint  of  cold  potatoes. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  minced  onion. 

One  table-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

The  potatoes  should  be  rather  underdone  to  produce 
the  best  results.  Cut  them  into  dice,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter  until  yellow, 
add  the  potato,  and  stir  with  a  fork  until  both  are  of  a 
nice  brown,  being  careful  not  to  break  the  potatoes.  A 
little  more  butter  may  be  required,  as  no  vegetables  absorb 
so  much  butter  as  potatoes.  When  done,  turn  the  pota- 
toes out  upon  a  hot  dish,  sprinkle  the  parsley  over  the 
top,  and  serve  hot. 

TO    COOK    SMALL    NEW    POTATOES. 

It  is  often  a  question  what  to  do  with  new  potatoes 
that  are  very  small.  They  are  delicious  cooked  as 
described  below,  and  for  this  purpose  the  smaller  they 
are  the  better.  Soak  them  one  hour  in  cold  water;  then 
rub  off  the  skin  with  a  coarse  cloth,  put  them  on  the  fire 
to  boil,  and  when  tender  remove  them  from  the  fire  and 
drain  well.  Then  add  to  the  potatoes  enough  milk  to 
nearly  cover  them,  and  heat  it  to  boiling.  When  the  milk 
is  hot,  stir  in  one  table-spoonful  of  butter  rubbed  to  a 
cream  with  one  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Stir  well  to  pre- 
vent the  potatoes  sticking  to  the  stew-pan,  being  careful 
not  to  break  them ;  and  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  more 
butter,  if  desired.  Serve  hot  in  a  deep  dish.  The  milk 
should  be  a  thick  cream  and  will  prove  a  fine  accompani- 
ment for  the  potatoes.  If  preferred,  the  milk  mav  be 


254  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

heated  in  a  farina  kettle  and  thickened  while  the  potatoes 
are  draining,  adding  the  latter  when  the  gravy  is  ready. 
None  of  the  potatoes  should  be  larger  than  a  small  egg. 

SWEET  POTATOES. 

These  may  be  baked,  boiled  or  fried  the  same  as  the 
white  variety,  but  they  are  much  to  be  preferred  baked. 
It  is  well  known  that  sweet  potatoes  are  much  richer 
when  twice  cooked,  and  in  the  South  they  are  more  fre- 
quently cooked  twice  than  once.  They  are  boiled  in 
their  "jackets,"  and  when  nearly  done,  are  drained  and 
peeled  and  are  laid  in  a  small  baking-tin ;  a  piece  of  but- 
ter is  then  spread  on  each  potato  and  a  tea-spoonful  of 
sugar  scattered  over  it,  and  all  are  baked  until  of  a  rich 
brown  color.  The  potatoes  may  be  cut  in  two  pieces  if 
very  large.  Sweet  potatoes  are  roasted  with  meat  the 
same  as  white  potatoes ;  and  in  the  South  they  are  often 
mashed,  placed  in  a  baking  dish  and  browned  in  the 
oven. 

ESCALLOPED  SWEET  POTATOES. 

This  dish  makes  a  nice  entree  for  dinner  and  is  also 
appropriate  for  breakfast. 

Three  pints  of  cold  boiled  sweet  potatoes. 
One-third  cupful  of  butter. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Slice  the  potato,  and  sprinkle  with  the  salt  and  pepper. 
Butter  a  large,  shallow  dish,  and  spread  the  potato  in  it, 
making  a  layer  not  more  than  an  inch  thick.  Melt  the 


VEGETABLES.  255 

butter  in  the  water,  and  add  the  sugar.  Sprinkle  one 
quarter  of  this  liquid  over  the  potato,  and  set  the  latter 
in  a  hot  oven.  In  ten  minutes  sprinkle  another  quarter 
of  the  liquid  over  the  potatoes,  and  repeat  this  twice 
more  at  intervals  of  ten  minutes.  After  the  last  sprink- 
ling, bake  ten  minutes  (making  forty  in  all),  and  serve 
hot. 

ARTICHOKE. 

The  artichoke  has  in  the  past  been  very  little  used  in 
America  and  its  value  has  not  been  understood ;  but  it  is 
now  becoming  more  popular.  It  belongs  to  the  thistle 
family,  the  flower  being  picked  before  it  opens.  In  Eng- 
land and  France  artichokes  may  be  purchased  for  three 
or  four  cents  each,  but  in  the  Northern  markets  of t  the 
United  States  they  range  in  price  from  twenty  to  forty 
cents  apiece ;  in  the  South  they  are  somewhat  cheaper. 
Artichokes  when  bought  should  be  green  and  crisp,  for  if 
the  leaves  are  brown  and  dry  it  is  a  sign  that  the  vegeta- 
ble is  old  and  stale.  The  small  green  heads  are  to  be 
preferred  to  the  large  ones  that  have  leaves  with  dark 
and  broken  edges.  When  small  and  tender,  the  artichoke 
may  be  served  raw  as  a  salad.  It  consists  of  three  parts, 
the  bottom,  leaves  and  choke.  The  choke  is  not  eaten 
and  may  be  removed  or  not,  as  preferred.  If  it  is  to  be 
removed,  cut  out  the  stem  and  save  it ;  then  with  the 
point  of  a  sharp  knife  cut  around  the  base  of  the  choke 
and  draw  the  latter  out.  Cut  across  the  top  of  the  arti- 
choke to  trim  it.  Then  wash  it  and  soak  it  for  half 
an  hour  in  salted  water,  using  one  table-spoonful  of 
salt  to  two  quarts  of  water.  It  will  then  be  ready  to 
cook. 


256  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BOILED   ARTICHOKE. 

After  removing  the  choke  and  soaking  as  directed, 
press  the  stem  back  into  the  head,  lay  the  whole  in  a  ket- 
tle and  cover  with  boiling  water,  adding  one  tea-spoonful 
of  salt  and  two  of  lemon  juice  for  every  two  quarts  of 
water.  Boil  gently  for  half  an  hour,  if  the  vegetable  is 
young — ten  minutes  longer,  if  old.  Then  take  the  arti- 
choke from  the  water  and  drain.  Serve  hot  with  Becha- 
mel sauce  or  sauce  Hollandaise  (see  "  Sauces"),  pouring 
the  sauce  around  the  artichoke  or  serving  it  separately. 
When  eating  this  vegetable,  break  the  leaves  off  with  the 
fingers  and  dip  the  base  or  fleshy  end  in  the  sauce. 
When  the  heads  are  small,  one  is  provided  for  each  per- 
son at  table ;  but  when  they  are  large  or  expensive,  they 
may  each  be  cut  in  two. 

ASPARAGUS,    STEWED. 

Break  the  stalks  in  inch  lengths,  placing  the  tough 
ends  that  are  not  fit  to  serve  on  a  plate  by  themselves ; 
and  wash  all  well.  Tie  the  tough  pieces  in  a  piece  of 
cheese-cloth,  and  lay  them  with  the  tender  asparagus  in 
a  kettle,  with  enough  slightly  salted  water  to  just  cover. 
Close  the  kettle,  and  stew  slowly  until  the  asparagus  is 
tender,  usually  thirty  minutes  ;  the  water  should  be  di- 
minished by  this  time  to  a  quantity  just  sufficient  to  keep 
the  asparagus  from  burning.  Remove  the  cheese-cloth 
and  throw  away  its  contents;  season  the  remaining 
asparagus  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  at 
once. 

The  tough  stalks,  which  are  usually  thrown  away,  will 
be  found  to  impart  considerable  sweetness  to  the  juices 


VEGETABLES.  257 

in  the  kettle ;  and  by  tying  them   in  the  cloth,  they  may 
be  readily  taken  out  when  no  longer  required. 

CREAMED   ASPARAGUS. 

Cook  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  boiling  the 
water  down  until  not  more  than  a  cupful  remains.  To 
this  add  one  cupful  of  cream  or  milk,  and  thicken  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  a  little 
cold  milk.  Add  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
serve  at  once. 

ASPARAGUS   ON    TOAST. 

Tie  the  stalks  in  a  bundle,  tying  it  in  two  places, 
and  keeping  the  heads  all  one  way ;  then  cut  off 
the  tough  stalks,  making  those  that  remain  of  uniform 
length  ;  and  boil  the  latter  slowly  until  tender  in  slightly 
salted  water.  While  they  are  boiling,  prepare  some  thin 
slices  of  toast.  Lift  the  asparagus  from  the  water  with 
two  forks,  lifting  it  by  the  strings,  and  lay  it  on  a  plat- 
ter. Dip  the  toast  very  quickly  in  the  water  the  aspara- 
gus was  boiled  in,  butter  it  lightly,  and  lay  it  on  the  serv- 
ing dish.  Distribute  the  asparagus  evenly  over  the  toast, 
heaping  it  neatly.  Butter  generously,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve.  A  sauce  is  sometimes  poured 
over  the  whole,  and  may  be  made  as  follows : 

One-half  pint  of  asparagus  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  half  a  pint  of  the  water  the  asparagus  was  boiled 
in,  and  stir  into  it,  when  boiling,  the  flour  and  butter 


258  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

rubbed  to  a  cream.  Add  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  the  toast  and  vegetable.  Some  cooks  serve 
sauce  Hollandaise  on  the  asparagus.  (See  page  138.) 

ASPARAGUS    IN   AMBUSH. 

One  quart  of  asparagus  tops. 

Nine  stale  breakfast  rolls. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Four  eggs  (yolks). 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Wash  the  tops,  boil  them  fifteen  minutes  in  slightly 
salted  water,  and  drain.  Cut  the  tops  off  the  rolls,  take 
out  the  crumb,  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  crisp,  laying 
each  top  by  the  roll  from  which  it  was  cut.  Heat  the 
milk  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when  boiling,  add  the  beaten 
yolks,  which  have  been  thinned  with  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  milk  or  water.  Stir  two  minutes  until  the  liquid  is 
like  cream,  add  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper  and  the 
cooked  asparagus,  and  remove  at  once  from  the  fire. 
Take  the  rolls  from  the  oven,  and  fill  them  with  this  mix- 
ture, put  on  the  tops,  and  serve  hot.  The  asparagus 
should  not  be  cold  when  put  in ;  the  preparation  should 
be  so  timed  that  the  rolls  and  asparagus  will  be  ready  at 
the  same  time. 

LIMA    BEANS. 

If  the  green  beans  are  used,  put  one  pint  of  them  into 
just  enough  boiling  salted  water  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly 
until  tender.  This  will  take  about  an  hour,  if  they  are 
cooked  slowly  enough.  Drain  off  the  water,  and  add 
one  cupful  of  milk  or  cream,  a  small  piece  of  butter  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Let  the  beans  simmer  a  mo- 


VEGETABLES.  259 

ment  in  the  milk,  and  serve.  If  dried  limas  are  used,  they 
should  be  soaked  twelve  hours  in  plenty  of  cold  water ; 
and  when  boiled,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda  should  be 
added  to  the  water. 

CREAMED    LIMA    BEANS. 

It  is  well  known  that  much  of  the  sweetness  of  lima 
beans  is  lost  in  the  water  that  is  drained  from  them  after 
boiling.  This  flavor  will  all  be  saved  by  cooking  them  as 
follows  :  Place  the  beans  in  a  double  boiler,  or  in  a  tin 
pail  set  in  a  kettle  of  water.  Cover  them  with  milk, 
close  tightly  the  vessel  containing  the  beans,  and  boil  the 
water  in  the  under  vessel  for  one  hour.  The  milk  will  be 
found  deliciously  strong  of  the  bean  flavoring.  Season 
with  salt,  butter  and  pepper,  and  serve.  If  the  boiler  is 
tightly  covered,  the  milk  will  not  be  too  much  reduced. 

STRING    BEANS. 

Break  off  a  little  from  each  end  of  the  pods  to  remove 
the  strings,  break  the  pods  into  inch  lengths,  and  place 
them  in  a  kettle  with  just  enough  water  to  cover.  Add 
half  a  dozen  strips  of  salt  pork,  cover  the  kettle,  and 
cook  slowly  for  one  hour.  The  water  by  this  time  should 
be  nearly  all  evaporated.  Season  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper,  and  serve,  the  strips  of  pork  being  also  placed 
in  the  dish.  Serve  a  piece  of  the  pork  with  the  beans  to 
each  person  at  table. 

STRING    BEANS    IN    MILK. 

After  removing  the  strings,  boil  the  beans  in  plenty  of 
salted  water  for  one  hour.  Drain,  add  milk  to  nearly 
cover  them,  and  heat.  When  boiling,  stir  into  the  milk 


260  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

a  little  flour  made  into  a  paste  with  a  small  quantity  of 
cold  milk,  using  enough  flour  to  make  the  milk  creamy. 
Boil  two  minutes,  stirring  all  of  the  time ;  add  butter,  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve  hot. 

BAKED  BEANS.     (See  pages  197,  198.) 
BEAN  SOUP.     (See  page  92.) 

BEETS. 

Wash  the  beets  carefully,  bat  do  not  cut  or  scrape 
them  nor  remove  any  of  the  small  roots  at  the  bottom. 
If  the  skin  is  broken  before  cooking  the  flavor  and  color 
are  much  impaired  by  the  water.  Some  cooks  even  rec- 
ommend boiling  them  without  being  washed  at  all,  and 
this  plan  may  be  followed  by  those  who  care  to  go  to  that 
extreme.  Boil  the  beets  in  plenty  of  water.  Young  beets 
will  cook  tender  in  one  hour,  but  through  the  winter 
months  four  hours  will  be  found  none  too  long.  When 
tender,  throw  the  beets  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and 
quickly  rub  off  the  skin  with  the  hands  ;  then  slice  them, 
add  salt  and  pepper  and  plenty  of  butter,  and  serve  hot. 
Should  the  beets  be  tough  and  withered,  soak  them  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  plenty  of  cold  water  before  trying  to 
cook  them  ;  then  boil  them  four  or  six  hours  very  slowly. 
In  the  late  winter  when  old  beets  are  alone  to  be  had, 
this  will  be  the  only  way  in  which  they  can  be  boiled 
tender,  and  even  this  will  sometimes  fail.  The  cold  beets 
left  over  may  be  covered  with  vinegar  and  used  as  pickles. 

BRUSSELS-SPROUTS. 

Pick  off  the  dead  leaves  from  the  sprouts,  soak  the 
latter  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour,  wash  them,  and  put 


VEGETABLES.  261 

them  on  the  fire  in  plenty  of  slightly  salted  boiling  water. 
Boil  until  tender,  thirty  minutes  being  usually  long  enough. 
Drain  off  the  water,  and  place  the  sprouts  in  a  frying-pan, 
adding  for  every  quart  of  them  when  uncooked, 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Shake  the  pan  over  the  fire  until  the  sprouts  become 
slightly  colored ;  then  turn  them  into  a  warm  dish,  and 
serve.  Brussels  sprouts  may  also  be  cooked  in  milk  the 
same  as  string  beans.  (See  page  259.) 

CABBAGE    WITH    CORNED     BEEF. 

Cut  the  cabbage,  if  large,  into  quarters,  and  soak  it 
one  hour  in  cold  water.  Add  it  to  the  boiling  corned 
beef  an  hour  and  a  quarter  before  serving-time,  and  let 
both  boil  very  slowly.  When  tender,  lift  out  the  cabbage 
with  a  skimmer  into  a  colander,  to  drain ;  remove  the 
stump  of  the  cabbage,  and  with  a  knife  slightly  chop  the 
leaves.  Add  pepper,  and  salt  also  if  the  beef  is  not  too 
salt.  Press  out  all  the  water  possible  from  the  cabbage, 
and  serve  on  a  warm  dish  or  around  the  corned  beef,  as 
may  be  desired. 

CABBAGE    IN    MILK. 

Chop  the  cabbage  fine,  having  soaked  it  for  one  hour 
before  chopping.  Boil  until  tender  in  plenty  of  water, 
usually  forty-five  minutes  if  the  boiling  is  slow.  Drain 
well,  cover  with  milk,  and  when  hot,  thicken  to  a  cream 


262  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

with  a  little  flour  rubbed  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  small 
spoonful  of  butter.  Boil  one  minute,  stirring  well ;  add 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve.  This  is  the  most  delicate 
way  of  cooking  cabbage. 

CABBAGE    HOT    SLAW. 

Chop  the  cabbage  fine,  after  soaking  it  one  hour  in  cold 
water;  and  place  it  in  an  iron  kettle  with  a  cupful  of  vine- 
gar. Cover  the  kettle  and  set  it  where  the  cabbage  will 
slowly  stew  for  two  hours,  stirring  often,  and  adding  a 
little  more  vinegar  as  that  in  the  kettle  evaporates,  but 
keeping  only  enough  moisture  in  the  kettle  to  keep  the 
cabbage  from  burning.  Should  the  vinegar  be  very- 
strong,  weaken  it  with  a  little  water.  When  the  cabbage 
is  tender,  add  a  little  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve 
hot.  The  slaw,  when  cooked,  should  be  of  a  delicate  pink- 
ish shade.  It  requires  constant  attention  while  cooking. 

CABBAGE  SALAD.     (See  Salads.) 

CARROTS. 

Scrape  and  wash  the  carrots,  and  cut  them  iri  slices. 
Boil  them  one  hour  in  plenty  of  water;  then  drain  off  all 
but  half  a  cupful  of  the  water,  and  add  to  the  carrots  one 
tea-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  one  of  salt.  Boil  rapidly  until 
the  water  is  all  evaporated.  Cover  the  carrots  with  milk, 
and  thicken  this  to  a  cream  with  a  little  flour  wet  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  cold  milk.  Add  butter,  salt  and  pep- 
per to  taste,  and  serve  hot. 

Carrots  may  also  be  cooked  the  same  as  beets,  adding 
butter,  salt  and  pepper  after  draining  off  the  water,  and 
serving  them  after  heating  thoroughly.  Or  they  may 


VEGETABLES,  263 

be  boiled  whole  with  corned  beef,  and  served  as  a  garnish 
around  the  meat.  It  improves  their  appearance  to  cut 
them  into  half-inch  slices  and  then  shape  them  with 
the  tin  cutters. 

BOILED    CAULIFLOWER. 

Remove  the  outer  green  leaves,  cut  off  the  stem  close 
to  the  flower,  and  wash  well.  Put  the  cauliflower  head 
downward  in  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak  for  an  hour,  to 
draw  out  any  insects  that  may  be  there  and  to  freshen  the 
flowers.  Unless  very  large,  do  not  cut  it ;  but  if  it  must 
be  cut,  quarter  it  neatly.  Tie  it  in  a  piece  of  coarse 
tarleton  or  cheese-cloth  to  prevent  breaking,  and  place  it 
in  a  granite-ware  stew-pan  or  a  porcelain-lined  kettle, 
with  plenty  of  slightly  salted,  boiling  water.  Cover,  and 
simmer  half  an  hour,  if  the  vegetable  is  of  moderate 
size.  When  clone,  remove  any  scum  that  may  have 
arisen,  lift  the  cauliflower  carefully  from  the  water,  drain 
well,  take  it  from  the  cloth,  and  place  it  stem  downward 
in  the  serving  dish.  Pour  over  it  a  sauce  made  of 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  scanty  pint  of  milk. 

Beat  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  cream,  and  pour  over  them 
the  boiling  milk.  Add  the  salt,  and  boil  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Sprinkle  half  a  tea-spoonful  of 
salt  over  the  cauliflower  before  pouring  on  the  sauce. 

BAKED    CAULIFLOWER 

Boil  the  vegetable  tender  as  directed  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  drain  well,  remove  it  from  the  cloth,  and  tear  the 


264  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

clusters  or  flowers  from  the  stem.     Place  a  layer  of  these 
clusters  in  a  baking  dish.     Have  ready  a  sauce  made  of 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  when  the  mixture 
froths  and  is  smooth,  add  the  milk  and  seasoning. 
Moisten  the  layer  of  cauliflower  in  the  baking-dish  with  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  this  sauce,  and  sprinkle  over  it  some  grated 
cheese,  using  the  latter  according  to  taste.  Then  arrange 
another  layer  of  the  cauliflower,  add  the  rest  of  the  sauce, 
and  sprinkle  thickly  with  cheese  and  bread  crumbs. 
The  dish  will  require  about  half  a  pint  of  crumbs  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  cheese,  or  more,  if  a  strong  flavor  is 
desired.  Bake  twenty  minutes,  and  serve  in  the  same 
dish. 

CORN. 

GREEN    CORN,    BOILED. 

The  time  needed  to  cook  corn  varies  with  its  age  and 
freshness.  Tender  corn  should  cook  in  fifteen  minutes, 
merely  simmering  for  that  length  of  time  ;  but  old  corn 
often  requires  half  an  hour.  Corn  may  be  boiled  either 
with  or  without  the  husk.  If  without  the  husk,  strip  off 
all  of  this  outer  covering,  and  remove  every  particle  of 
the  silk.  If  the  husk  is  to  be  left  on,  strip  off  the  outer 
leaves,  turn  back  the  innermost  covering  of  two  or  three 
leaves,  pick  off  all  the  silk,  and  re-cover  the  ear  with  the 
leaves  turned  back,  tying  it  at  the  top  with  a  bit  of 
thread.  Place  the  corn  in  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  it  with 


VEGETABLE'S.  26$ 

boiling  water,  but  do  not  add  salt,  as  this  would  harden  the 
corn.  When  done,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  spread  a  nap- 
kin on  a  flat  dish,  and  lay  the  corn  upon  it,  drawing  the 
ends  of  the  napkin  up  so  as  to  cover  the  corn ;  serve  at 
once.  When  boiled  in  the  husk,  drain  the  corn  well 
before  serving,  and  break  each  cob  from  the  stem  ;  send 
to  the  table  in  the  napkin,  but  do  not  remove  the  husks. 

HOW   TO    EAT    GREEN    CORN. 

Score  every  row  of  kernel  with  a  sharp  knife  ;  then 
butter  the  corn  lightly,  dust  it  with  salt,  and  with  the 
teeth  press  out  the  center  of  the  grains,  leaving  the  hulls 
on  the  cob.  It  is  usually  considered  inelegant  to  eat 
corn  from  the  cob,  but  this  method  is  the  least  trouble- 
some. 

GREEN    CORN,    STEWED. 

This  will  be  found  a  satisfactory  way  of  cooldng  corn 
that  is  a  little  past  its  prime  or  is  withered.  Husk,  and 
boil  the  corn  for  ten  minutes.  As  soon  as  it  has  cooled 
enough  to  handle,  draw  a  sharp  knife  down  each  row  of 
kernels,  press  the  pulp  from  the  hulls  with  the  back  of 
the  knife,  place  it  in  a  stew-pan,  and  to  every  pint  add 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Three-quarters  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 

Let  the  whole  simmer  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  very 
hot.  Any  corn  that  may  be  left  over  from  some  other 
meal  may  be  cut  from  the  cob  and  cooked  in  this  way. 


266  7'HE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CANNED    CORN. 

Place  a  pint  of  corn  in  a  stew-pan,  and  add  seasoning 
and  milk  the  same  as  given  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
omitting  the  butter.  Simmer  ten  minutes,  add  the  butter, 
and  serve. 

CORN    PUDDING. 

One  dozen  large  ears  of  corn. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Grate  the  corn  from  the  cob.  Beat  the  whites  and  yolks 
of  the  eggs  separately ;  add  the"  yolks  to  the  corn,  then 
the  melted  butter,  then  the  milk,  sugar  and  salt,  and 
lastly  the  beaten  whites,  stirring  continually.  Bake  very 
slowly  for  an  hour  and  a-half,  covering  the  dish  until  the 
last  twenty  minutes,  when  the  cover  should  be  removed 
and  the  pudding  browned  nicely.  Serve  with  roast  meat 
of  any  kind.  This  can  also  be  made  of  canned  corn, 
which  must  be  chopped  very  fine  before  using. 

SUCCOTASH. 

This  is  made  of  green  corn  and  Lima  beans,  although 
string  or  butter  beans  may  be  used.  Cut  the  corn  care- 
fully from  the  cob,  and  to  each  pint  allow 

One  pint  of  Lima  beans. 
One-half  pint  of  cream  or  milk. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 


VEGETABLES.  267 

Cover  the  beans  with  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  thirty 
minutes.  Drain  off  the  water,  add  the  corn  and  the  milk 
or  cream,  and  stew  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  longer, 
if  the  corn  is  old  ;  then  add  the  seasoning,  and  serve. 
In  winter,  if  dried  corn  and  beans  are  used,  soak  both 
separately  over  night.  In  the  morning  cover  the  beans 
with  fresh  water,  and  boil  them  very  gently  for  two  hours. 
Do  not  drain  the  water  from  the  corn,  but  set  the  pan 
containing  it  on  the  back  of  the  range  where  it  will  be 
well  warmed  without  boiling,  while  the  beans  are  cooking. 
When  the  beans  are  tender,  drain  and  add  them  to 
the  corn  ;  both  should  then  have  only  water  enough  to 
about  cover  them.  Cook  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  and 
drain  off  some  of  the  water  until  there  is  not  more  than 
two-thirds  of  a  cupful  left  ;  then  add  the  milk  and  season- 
ing. Succotash  may  also  be  made  of  canned  corn  and 
beans. 

CORN    AND    TOMATOES,    STEWED. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  green  corn  cut  from  the  cob 
and  of  sliced,  peeled  tomatoes,  and  stew  them  for  half  an 
hour.  Season  with  pepper,  salt  and  butter,  stew  fifteen 
minutes  longer,  and  serve  hot. 

CORN    AND    TOMATOES,    BAKED. 

Use  equal  quantities  of  cooked  corn  cut  from  the  cob, 
and  raw  tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced,  adding  to  a  pint  of 
each 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One-half  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 


268  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Mix  the  seasoning  with  the  corn  and  tomatoes,  and  pour 
all  into  a  baking  dish.  Spread  the  crumbs  over  the  top, 
dot  them  with  the  butter,  and  bake  half  an  hour.  This 
is  a  satisfactory  way  of  utilizing  corn  that  has  been  left 
over  from  dinner. 

CORN    SALAD    OR    FetticUS. 

This  is  used  as  a  salad,  being  very  delicate  when  so 
prepared ;  or  it  may  be  washed  and  cooked  the  same  as 
spinach,  which  it  much  resembles. 

CORN    FRITTERS,    NO.    I. 

One  pint  of  grated  corn. 

One  egg. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Grate  the  corn  from  the  cob.  Beat  the  egg  well,  and 
add  it  to  the  corn,  and  also  the  milk,  melted  butter,  salt 
and  pepper.  Stir  the  baking  powder  into  a  little  of  the 
flour,  and  add  it  to  the  corn,  stirring  in  enough  flour  to 
make  a  rather  thick  batter.  The  fritters  are  fried  upon  a 
griddle  like  batter-cakes,  a  table-spoonful  of  the  batter 
being  used  for  each  fritter.  Canned  corn  may  be  used 
when  the  fresh  is  not  to  be  had.  Chop  this  corn  very 
fine,  and  add  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  milk  to  each  pint 
used,  the  quantity  of  milk  being  thus  slightly  increased, 
because  the  canned  corn  is  not  so  moist  as  the  fresh. 
The  above-mentioned  quantities  are  sufficient  for  six 
persons.  Corn  fritters  are  very  nice  served  for  luncheon. 


YE  GE  TABLES.  269 

CORN    FRITTERS,    NO.    2. 

One  can  of  corn. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

Salt  to  taste. 

Chop  the  corn  as  fine  as  pulp,  and  add  the  rest  of  the 
ingredients  to  it.  Should  there  be  but  one  egg  at  hand, 
much  more  flour  should  be  used  to  .make  the  batter  stiff 
enough.  Fry  as  griddle-cakes,  and  serve  hot. 

CELERY. 

Wash  and  scrape  the  stalks,  and  only  use  for  the  table 
that  which  is  white  or  but  slightly  green.  Cut  off  the 
green  leaves,  retaining  the  blanched  ones  that  grow 
nearest  the  heart.  Lay  the  celery  in  cold  water  for  one 
hour  before  serving,  and  send  it  to  table  on  a  low,  flat 
dish,  the  high  celery  glasses  being  out  of  date.  For  the 
method  of  freshening  celery,  see  the  general  remarks  on 
vegetables  on  page  239.  The  parts  not  used  on  the 
table  may  be  served  as  a  salad  or  may  be  cooked. 

STEWED   CELERY. 

Wash  the  stalks  clean,  cut  them  into  inch-long  pieces, 
and  soak  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Drain,  and  place 
the  celery  in  a  stew-pan,  with  boiling  water  to  cover ; 
and  let  it  simmer  slowly  half  an  hour,  by  which 
time  the  water  should  be  so  reduced  as  to  measure 
not  quite  half  a  cupful.  Add  a  cupful  of  cream  or 
milk,  and  when  the  liquid  boils,  thicken  it  to  a  cream 


2 70  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

with  a  little  flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  table«spoonful  of 
butter.     Add  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

STEWED  CELERY  WITH  BROWN  SAUCE. 

Boil  the  celery  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Heat  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  of  a  dark  brown  add  a  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Stir  until  the  paste  is  smooth  and  quite  dark.  Then 
drain  the  celery,  and  add  to  the  butter  and  flour  half  a 
pint  of  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled.  When  the 
sauce  boils,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  pour  over 
the  celery,  and  serve. 

CUCUMBERS. 

CUCUMBERS,    RAW. 

Pare  the  cucumbers  neatly  from  end  to  end,  and  lay 
them  in  ice-water  for  an  hour ;  then  wipe  them  dry  on  a 
towel,  and  slice  thinly.  Serve  plainly  at  table,  allow- 
ing each  person  to  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper, 
oil  and  vinegar.  Or  each  cucumber  may  be  cut  in  four 
pieces  from  end  to  end,  and  these  may  be  served  upon  a 
long  dish  with  cracked  ice.  When  prepared  in  this  way, 
they  are  dipped  in  salt  and  pepper  and  eaten  from  the 
fingers. 

STEWED    CUCUMBERS. 

Pare  and  quarter  the  cucumbers  and  remove  the  seeds. 
Place  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  add 
a  small  onion  cut  in  slices,  and  fry  until  brown  ;  then 
put  in  the  cucumbers,  and  fry  them  until  of  a  light 
brown.  Remove  them  from  the  pan,  and  add  to  the 
gravy  a  table-spoonful  of  flour,  mixing  until  smooth. 


VEGETABLES.  2/1 

Pour  in  half  a  pint  of  stock  or  water,  stirring  continually, 
and  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Now  return  the 
cucumbers  to  the  pan  and  stew  gently  for  twenty  min- 
utes. Serve  on  toasted  bread. 

FRIED    CUCUMBERS. 

Pare  the  vegetables,  and  lay  them  in  ice-water  half 
an  hour.  Cut  them  into  lengthwise  slices  nearly  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  lay  them  in  ice-water  fifteen  minutes 
longer.  Wipe  each  piece  dry,  sprinkle  with  salt  and 
pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  and  fry  to  a  delicate  brown 
in  lard  or  sweet  drippings.  Many  declare  this  to  be  the 
only  wholesome  method  of  preparing  cucumbers. 

STUFFED  CUCUMBERS.     (AN  Entree?) 

Six  good-sized  cucumbers. 

One-half  cupful  of  chopped  veal. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Three  table-spoonful  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  egg. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  thyme. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  onion  juice. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  chicken  or  veal  stock. 

Pare  the  cucumbers  lightly,  cut  off  the  ends,  and  cut 
each  cucumber  in  two  pieces  crosswise.  Remove  the 
seeds  with  an  apple  corer,  lay  the  cucumbers  in  slightly 
salted  water,  and  set  them  in,  a  cool  place.  Chop  the 
veal  fine.  Place  the  milk  and  bread-crumbs  in  a  sauce- 
pan, and  cook  slowly  ten  minutes,  or  until  a  smooth 
paste  is  formed.  Add  to  this  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 


2/2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

and  mix  well  with  the  veal.  Take  the  cucumbers  from 
the  water,  wipe  them  dry,  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture, 
packing  it  solidly.  Lay  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  pour 
over  them  the  chicken  or  veal  stock,  or  the  same  quantity 
of  water  if  there  is  no  stock,  adding  a  table-spoonful  of 
butter  in  case  water  is  used.  Add  a  bay-leaf  also,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  let  the  cucumbers  simmer 
forty-five  minutes.  When  it  is  time  to  serve,  place  the 
cucumbers  on  thin  strips  of  toast,  and  pour  over  them  a 
sauce  made  of  the  following  ingredients  : 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 

One  cupful  of  veal  or  chicken  stock. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  slice  of  carrot. 

One  slice  of  onion. 

One  sprig  of  parsley. 

One  clove. 

One  bay-leaf. 

A  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Simmer  all  these  together  twenty  minutes,  adding  the 
lemon-juice  last.  Strain  the  sauce,  pour  it  over  the 
cucumbers,  and  serve.  If  there  is  no  stock,  use  in  its 
place  the  liquid  in  which  the  cucumbers  were  boiled. 

DANDELIONS. 

These  are  not  fit  to  eat  after  they  blossom,  as  they 
then  become  bitter  and  stringy.  Cut  off  the  roots,  pick 
the  greens  over  carefully,  and  wash  them  well  in  several 
waters.  Place  them  in  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling, 


VEGETABLES.  273 

salted  water,  and  boil  slowly  for  an  hour.  When  done, 
lift  them  into  a  colander,  press  them  to  drain  out  all 
the  water,  and  chop  coarsely  ;  then  add  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve. 
Dandelions  are  sometimes  boiled  with  corned  beef,  the 
same  as  cabbage.  They  are  eaten  with  a  little  vinegar 
sprinkled  on  each  dishful. 

EGG-PLANT. 

Cut  the  egg-plant  in  slices  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Pare  the*  slices,  and  lay  them  in  very  strong  salt  water, 
placing  a  plate  on  top  to  keep  them  under  the  brine  ; 
and  let  them  soak  thus  at 'least  two  hours.  Drain, 
wipe  each  slice  dry,  dip  it  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in 
cracker-crumbs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  fry  in 
hot  lard  until  well  done  and  nicely  browned.  Egg-plant 
belongs  to  the  same  family  as  potatoes  and  tobacco,  all 
of  which  contain  a  bitter  juice,  more  or  less  poisonous. 
This  should  be  soaked  out  of  the  plant  before  using,  or 
it  will  be  a  decided  failure.  There  is  no  vegetable  in 
the  preparation  of  which  the  cook  is  less  certain  of  suc- 
cess than  egg-plant,  for  often  after  every  precaution  has 
been  taken  it  will  be  too  bitter  to  be  eaten.  Another 
way  of  removing  this  bitterness  is  to  pour  boiling  salted 
water  on  the  slices  and  let  them  remain  in  it  an  hour 
before  frying.  Egg-plants  should  be  fresh  and  glossy- 
looking  when  purchased,  else  there  can  be  no  possible 
chance  of  their  success  in  whatever  way  they  may  be 
cooked. 

STUFFED    EGG-PLANT. 

Cut  the  plant  in  two  parts  lengthwise,  and  scoop  out 
the  meat,  leaving  the  rind  about  half  an  inch   thick,  that 
18 


2/4  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  shape  may  be  firm.  Chop  the  pulp  fine,  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
cook  in  a  frying-pan  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  well  ;  then 
add  a  scanty  half-cupful  of  water  and  a  cupful  of  bread- 
crumbs. Sprinkle  the  interior  of  the  shells  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  fill  them  with  the  mixture.  Spread  a  cupful 
of  crumbs  on  the  surface  of  the  mixture,  place  the  two 
pieces  of  plant  in  a  baking-dish  or  deep  pan,  and  pour 
enough  hot  water  into  the  pan  to  come  half-way  up  the 
sides  of  the  plant.  Bake  an  hour,  and  serve  hot  on  a 
napkin.  The  egg-plant  will  be  found  very  delicate,  and 
it  may  be  served  either  as  a  vegetable  or  an  entree. 

ENDIVE. 

This  vegetable  is  used  as  a  winter  salad  and  is  gener- 
ally dressed  with  celery  or  boiled  beets,  and  garnished 
with  hard  boiled  eggs  and  a  salad  dressing  poured  over 
all.  It  may  also  be  cooked  as  in  the  following  recipe. 

CREAMED    ENDIVE. 

Wash  the  endive  carefully,  and  pick  off  the  outer  green 
leaves,  leaving  only  the  white  part.  Boil  until  tender, 
drain  well,  return  it  to  the  kettle,  and  nearly  cover  with 
milk.  When  the  milk  boils,  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour 
stirred  to  a  paste  with  a  small  quantity  of  cold  milk, 
season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

KALE. 

This  is  cooked  and  served  the  same  as  spinach  ;  or  it 
may  be  vtied  in  a  bundle,  boiled  like  asparagus  and 
served  on  toast  with  a  generous  allowance  of  butter.  It 
may  also  be  boiled  in  a  bundle  and  drained  well,  after 


VEGETABLES.  2/5 

which  milk  will  be  added  and  thickened  to  a  cream  with 
a  little  flour,  the  whole  being  seasoned  with  butter,  salt 
and  pepper. 

LENTILS,    FRIED. 

Wash  and  soak  over  night  a  pint  of  lentils.  In  the 
morning  drain,  cover  them  with  w'arm  water  in  which  has 
been  placed  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda,  and  bring  them 
quickly  to  a  boil.  Boil  gently  for  an  hour,  drain,  cover 
them  again  with  fresh  boiling  soft  water,  and  boil  gently 
until  tender,  this  generally  requiring  an  hour  and  a-half 
longer.  Test  by  mashing  a  lentil  now  and  then  ;  if  it 
crushes  quickly,  they  are  done,  and  should  then  be 
drained  in  a  colander.  Place  two  table -spoonfuls  of  but- 
ter in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  melted,  add  the  lentils, 
with  salt  and  pepper  to  season  ;  stir  them  over  the  fire 
for  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve. 

MACARONI  AND   SPAGHETTI. 

Macaroni  is  very  valuable  as  an  article  of  food,  for  it 
contains  a  larger  proportion  of  glutin  than  bread — in  fact, 
it  is  the  bread  of  the  Italian  laborer.  In  this  country  it 
is  not  much  used  by  the  working  classes,  but  for  no  good 
reason,  since  it  is  not  expensive  and  is  most  easily  pre~- 
pared.  In  selecting  macaroni  that  which  is  of  a  yellow- 
ish tint  is  to  be  preferred  to  the  white. 

BAKED    MACARONI,    WITH    CHEESE. 

Do  not  wash  the  macaroni.  Break  it  into  inch-lengths, 
and  throw  it  into  boiling,  salted  water.  Stir  frequently  to 
prevent  it  settling  to  the  bottom,  and  boil  slowly.  Mac- 
aroni does  not  nearlv  reach  its  full  size  when  boiled 


2/6  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

rapidly;  hence  forty-five  minutes  is  none  too  long  to 
allow  for  its  cooking.  Turn  it  when  done  into  a  colander, 
and  drain  well.  Arrange  a  layer  of  macaroni  in  the 
bottom  of  a  pudding-dish,  upon  it  strew  some  rich  cheese 
(the  Parmesan  is  generally  used),  and  scatter  over  this 
some  bits  of  butter.  Add  a  sprinkling  of  salt  and 
pepper,  then  another  layer  of  macaroni  and  cheese ;  and 
fill  the  dish  in  this  order,  having  macaroni  at  the  top, 
buttered  well,  but  without  the  cheese.  Add  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  milk,  and  bake  slowly  until  of  a  golden-brown  hue, 
half  an  hour  being  usually  sufficient.  Serve  in  the  dish 
in  which  it  was  baked. 

STEWED    MACARONI. 

Boil  the  macaroni  until  soft,  throw  it  into  a  colander, 
and  drain  well ;  then  return  it  to  the  kettle,  nearly  cover 
with  milk,  and  season  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  Let  all  boil  together  for  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

MACARONI    AND   TOMATOES. 

One-quarter  pound  of  spaghetti. 
One-half  pint  of  stewed  tomatoes. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Take  a  handful  of  the  long  sticks,  put  the  ends  into 
boiling,  salted  water,  and  as  they  soften,  bend  and  coil 
them  in  the  water  without  breaking.  Boil  rather 
briskly  until  done,  drain  in  a  colander,  and  stand  the 
colander  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  for  fifteen  minutes.  This 
blanches  the  spaghetti.  Place  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan, 
and  when  hot,  add  the  flour  and  mix  until  smooth. 


VEGETABLES.  2JJ 

Then  pour  in  the  strained  tomatoes,  and  when  they  boil, 
add  the  spaghetti,  boil  up  once,  and  serve  without  cutting. 

MUSHROOMS. 

During  the  Summer  and  Autumn,  and  more  especially 
in  September  and  October,  mushrooms  abound  in  the 
fields  in  many  parts  of  the  country ;  and  the  wild  mush- 
rooms are  decidedly  superior  to  the  cultivated  variety. 
It  is  highly  important  to  be  able  to  distinguish  those  which 
are  edible  from  the  poisonous  ones.  Those  which  may 
be  eaten  appear  in  old  sod  in  a  clear,  open,  sunny  place 
and  spring  up  after  low-lying  fogs  and  heavy  dews.  Low, 
damp  and  shady  spots  and  around  the  stumps  of  decayed 
trees  are  the  places  to  shun  in  gathering  mushrooms. 
They  are  at  first  very  small  and  supported  on  a  short 
foot-stalk  ;  and  at  this  stage  are  called  "  button  "  mush- 
rooms. Their  growth  is  rapid.  In  an  hour  the  mush- 
room spreads  like  an  umbrella  and  shows  the  gills 
underneath,  which  should  be  of  a  pale  salmon  color.  In 
another  hour  this  pretty  color  has  changed  to  a  dark 
brown.  The  edible  mushroom  may  be  easily  pulled,  and 
it  has  an  agreeable  smell,  while  the  poisonous-  variety 
invariably  has  a  putrid,  rank  odor  and  has  yellow  or 
white  gills.  It  is  said  that  silver  will  turn  black  when 
used  to  stir  mushrooms  that  have  even  one  poisonous 
fungus  among  them. 

To  prepare  mushrooms  for  cooking :  cut  off  the  stalks 
and  throw  them  away,  unless  they  are  very  solid  and 
tender,  when  they  may  be  cooked.  Pare  the  cups  and 
drop  them  into  a  bowl  of  water,  into  which  has  been 
squeezed  the  'juice  of  half  a  lemon  ;  this  will,  keep  the 
mushrooms  from  darkening. 


2/8  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

STEWED    MUSHROOMS. 

One  quart  of  cleaned  mushrooms. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Rub  the  flour  to  a  smooth  paste  in  the  water.  Put  the 
mushrooms,  flour  and  seasoning  together  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  boil  gently  for  five  minutes,  stirring  constantly. 
Serve  very  hot.  When  milk  or  cream  is  preferred  in  the 
cooking,  use  but  half  the  quantity  of  water,  adding  a  cup- 
ful of  milk;  and  after  boiling  five  minutes,  serve  as 
above.  If  cream  is  used,  allow  but  half  the  quantity  of 
butter,  as  the  mushrooms  are  very  rich. 

SIMPLE   STEW   OF    MUSHROOMS. 

Clean  a  pint  of  mushrooms,  cut  them  in  rather  small 
pieces,  and  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  butter  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper;  let  them  sim- 
mer ten  minutes,  and  serve.  Wild  mushrooms  are  de- 
licious cooked  in  this  way. 

BAKED  MUSHROOMS. 

Choose  the  large  mushrooms,  but  if  the  round  "  but- 
ton "  mushrooms  are  obtainable,  they  are  much  to  be  pre- 
ferred. Peel  them,  cut  off  the  stalks  close  to  the  top, 
and  do  not  wash  them  unless  they  are  soiled.  Place 
them  upside  down  on  a  pie-dish,  sprinkle  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  put  a  tiny  bit  of  butter  in  each  upturned 
cup.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  in  a  quick  oven,  basting  twice 


VEGETABLES.  2JQ 

with  a  little  melted  butter ;  and  serve  hot,  pouring  over 
them  whatever  juice  may  be  on  the  dish. 

ROASTED    MUSHROOMS. 

Place  the  mushrooms  in  the  tin,  as  directed  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  using  only  those  that  have  not  at  all  lost 
their  plumpness  and  erectness  and  are  truly  little  cups. 
Set  the  pan  on  the  top  of  the  stove,  and  cook  for  five  min- 
utes in  a  moderate  heat.  The  cups  will  be  filled  with 
their  own  liquor  and  the  gravy  from  the  seasoning. 
Serve  while  very  hot. 

TO    STEW   CANNED    MUSHROOMS. 

In  preparing  canned  mushrooms  do  not  boil  them,  as 
they  are  already  cooked  and  the  second  cooking  toughens 
them.  To  a  can  of  mushrooms  allow 

One  egg  (yolk  only). 
One-half  pint  of  milk. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Put  the  butter  in  the  stew-pan,  and  when  hot,  add  the 
flour,  mix  until  smooth,  and  add  the  milk.  Stir  contin- 
ually until  the  liquid  boils ;  then  add  the  mushrooms,  salt 
and  pepper,  and  stir  until  well  heated.  Take  from  the 
fire,  add  the  beaten  yolk,  stir  it  well  in,  and  serve. 

OKRA. 

The  pods  of  okra  are  so  sticky  that  especial  care  is 
needed  to  avoid  breaking  them  while  cleaning. 
They  should  be  well  washed  before  the  steins  are  re- 


280  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

moved ;  then  place  them  in  boiling  salted  water  sufficient 
to  cover,  and  boil  until  tender.  They  should  boil  very 
slowly,  as  rapid  boiling  will  break  them  in  pieces.  It  re- 
quires an  hour  or  more  to  cook  this  vegetable.  When 
tender,  throw  the  okra  into  a  colander,  and  when  drained, 
lay  it  in  a  dish.  Heat  together  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper;  mix  well,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  okra  in 
the  dish.  Okra  is  also  boiled  with  strips  of  salt  pork,  the 
same  as  string  beans  ;  or  it  may  be  stewed  with  tomatoes, 
the  same  as  macaroni. 

ONIONS. 

BAKED    ONIONS,    NO.    I. 

The  large  Spanish  onions  are  far  milder  and  more  deli- 
cate than  the  usual  winter  varieties.  Wash  the  onions 
clean,  trim  the  bottoms  but  do  not  peel,  and  boil  for  an 
hour  in  slightly  salted,  boiling  water.  If  the  onions  are 
desired  very  mild,  change  the  water  twice  during  the 
time,  replenishing  with  more  boiling  water.  Having 
drained  them  well,  take  each  onion  separately,  wipe  it 
dry  and  roll  in  a  square  of  tissue  or  buttered  paper, 
twisting  the  paper  at  the  top  to  keep  it  closed.  Place 
the  onions  in  a  baking-pan,  and  bake  an  hour  in  a  slow 
oven.  When  done,  remove  the  papers,  peel  the  onions 
and  place  them  in  the  serving  dish ;  pour  melted  butter 
over  them,  dust  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve. 

FAKED    ONIONS,    NO.    2. 

Boil  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  without 
peeling,  and  bake  an  hour  without  enclosing  them  in 
papers,  but  basting  frequently  with  butter.  When  done, 


VEGETABLES.  28 1 

take  them  up  carefully,  peel,  and  lay  them  in  the 
serving  dish,  which  should  be  placed  where  it  will  keep 
warm.  Set  the  pan  upon  the  top  of  the  stove,  add  to  it  a 
cupful  of  milk,  and,  when  this  boils,  stir  in  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk.  When  the  whole 
is  creamy,  add  salt  and  pepper,  and  more  butter,  if  de- 
sired ;  pour  the  sauce  over  the  onions,  and  serve. 

CREAMED    ONIONS. 

Peel  the  onions,  and  boil  for  an  hour  in  plenty  of  salted 
water.  Drain  well  and  cut  each  onion  into  four,  six  or 
any  desired  number  of  pieces,  over  which  pour  a  cream 
sauce  made  of 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Rub  the  butter  and  flour  to  a  cream ;  heat  the  milk, 
and  when  it  boils,  add  the  butter  and  flour.  Stir  the 
sauce  until  of  a  creamy  consistency,  and  flavor  with  salt 
and  pepper. 

STEWED    ONIONS. 

Boil  the  onions  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe, 
take  them  up  carefully  and  drain,  keeping  them  as  nearly 
whole  as  possible.  Pour  over  them  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  melted  butter,  dust  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

FRIED    PARSNIPS. 

Scrape  the  parsnips,  and  boil  them  gently  until  tender, 
usually  an  hour.  Drain,  and  when  cold,  cut  them  in 


282  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

long,  thin  slices  about  a-third  of  an  inch  thick,  and  sea- 
son each  slice  with  salt  and  pepper;  dip  the  slices  in 
melted  butter  and  then  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot  lard  until 
both  sides  are  thoroughly  browned.  Drain  well,  and 
serve. 

BOILED   PARSNIPS. 

Scrape  the  parsnips,  and  boil  them  until  tender.  Drain 
and  cut  them  in  small  pieces.  Place  these  in  the  kettle 
or  stew-pan  in  which  the  parsnips  were  boiled,  add 
enough  milk  to  cover,  and  when  the  milk  boils,  thicken 
it  slightly  with  a  little  flour  wet  to  a  smooth  paste  with 
cold  milk.  When  the  liquid  is  like  cream,  add  butter, 
salt  a.nd  pepper,  and  serve  hot. 

PARSNIP    FRITTERS. 

Three  large  parsnips. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter  (melted). 

Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Boil  the  parsnips  until  tender,  grate  fine  or  mash 
them  well,  and  pick  out  all  the  fibrous  parts.  Beat  the 
eggs  light,  and  stir  them  into  the  parsnips,  beating  hard 
until  the  whole  is  well  mixed.  Then  add  the  butter, 
which  should  be  measured  after  it  is  melted,  and  then 
the  milk,  salt  and  flour.  Fry  like  doughnuts  or  on  a 
griddle. 

GREEN   PEAS. 

Peas  are  fresh  when  the  pods  are  green  and  crisp; 
and,  like  corn,  they  lose  their  sweetness  almost  as  soon 


VEGETABLES.  283 

as  picked.  If  stale  or  wilted,  they  may  be  somewhat 
freshened  by  being  thrown  into  cold  water  as  soon  as 
shelled  and  allowed  to  remain  in  it  at  least  an  hour 
before  cooking;  and  when  boiling,  a  tea-spoonful  of 
sugar  may  be  added  to  the  water  to  restore  their  sweet- 
ness. Fresh  peas  should  not  be  shelled  until  just  before 
they  are  needed  for  cooking.  Look  them  over  carefully 
after  shelling,  taking  out  any  tendrils  that  may  have  got- 
ten in  with  them  ;  place  them  in  a  kettle  with  just  suffi- 
cient boiling  salted  water  to  cover,  and  boil  slowly  until 
tender.  Young  peas  will  cook  in  twenty  minutes,  but 
those  that  are  more  mature  require  twice  that  time.  The 
water  should  not  be  drained  from  them  when  done ;  if 
nicely  apportioned,  there  will  be,  when  the  cooking  is 
finished,  only  enough  to  serve  with  the  peas.  Add  butter, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  hot. 

FRENCH    PEAS. 

Empty  a  can  of  French  peas  into  a  colander,  and  pour 
cold  water  through  them.  Then  place  the  peas  in  a 
rather  large-bottomed  stew-pan,  and  add 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  stock  or  water. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Cook  rapidly,  with  the  pan  uncovered,  until  the  peas 
have  absorbed  all  the  liquid ;  and  serve  at  once. 
Fresh  peas  may  also  be  finished  in  this  way  after  they 
have  been  boiled  and  drained. 

All  canned  peas  should  have  the  liquor  drained  from 
them  and  fresh  water  added  before  being  placed  over  the 


284  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

fire,  as  there  is  a  peculiarly   disagreeable  taste  about  the 
peas  when  cooked  with  the  juices  in  the  can. 

PEA    FRITTERS. 

One  pint  of  green  peas. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Cook  the  peas  until  tender,  drain  and  mash  them,  and 
while  still  hot  add  the  butter,  salt  and  pepper.  When 
cold,  add  the  beaten  eggs,  the  milk,  and  the  flour  with 
the  baking  powder  stirred  into  it.  Stir  all  well,  and  fry 
like  griddle-cakes.  These  fritters  are  delicious  for  break- 
fast. The  peas  may  be  cooked  and  seasoned  the  day 
before  ;  or  those  left  from  a  previous  dinner  may  be 
boiled  until  a  little  more  tender  and  utilized  as  above. 

BOILED   RICE. 

Wash  thoroughly  a  cupful  of  rice,  put  it  into  a  gran- 
ite-ware stew-pan  or  kettle,  and  pour  over  it  three  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  adding  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  to  the 
water.  Boil  without  covering  the  kettle  ;  the  time  of 
boiling  varies  with  the  kind  of  rice,  but  fifteen  minutes 
is  generally  sufficient.  Test  the  rice  by  pressing  a  few 
grains  between  the  fingers  ;  if  soft,  the  rice  has  cooked 
sufficiently  and  may  then  be  turned  into  a  colander  to 
drain,  being  shaken  to  remove  all  the  water  possible. 
Toss  the  rice  with  a  fork  to  the  sides  of  the  colander  to 


VEGETABLES.  285 

facilitate  the  drying,  set  the  colander  on  a  tin  dish  or  pie- 
plate,  and  stand  it  in  the  oven  to  dry,  leaving  the  oven- 
door  open.  Or  the  colander  may  be  placed  on  the  back 
of  the  range  in  a  warm  place,  if  the  oven  is  in  use.  The 
rice  should  dry  in  twenty  minutes,  and  every  grain  should 
be  separate,  tender,  white  and  dry.  It  is  eaten  with 
gravy  the  same  as  potatoes.  To  be  a  success,  boiled 
rice  (which  many  housekeepers  do  not  prepare  properly) 
should  be  taken  from  the  water  when  it  is  just  cooked 
and  not  be  allowed  one  minute's  boiling  after  it  has 
reached  that  point.  If  boiled  too  long,  it  simply  cannot 
be  dried  off  and  is  a  mushy,  soggy  and  most  unappetizing 
mess. 

BAKED    RICE. 

Some  housekeepers  bake  rice,  when  it  is  to  be  served  as 
a  vegetable.  Wash  a  cupful  of  rice,  place  it  in  a  bak- 
ing-dish with  a  quart  of  water  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  bake  very  slowly  from  an  hour  and  a  half  to  nearly 
two  hours.  Serve  in  the  same  dish,  and  eat  with  meat 
gravy  poured  over  the  rice.  These  rice  dishes  are  partic- 
ularly nice  when  there  is  a  roast  that  furnishes  a  rich 
gravy,  such  as  beef  or  veal. 

CURRY   OF    RICE. 

This  dish  is  appropriate  with  any  kind  of  fish  or  meat 
that  has  been  prepared  with  a  sauce.  For  a  family  of  six 
persons,  allow 

One  cupful  of  rice. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt, 


286  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  curry  powder. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of 'minced  onion. 

Wash  the  rice  well,  and  soak  it  for  twojiours  in  fresh 
water;  then  drain.  Place  the  butter  and  onion  in  a  stew- 
pan,  and  cook  them  until  the  onion  is  yellow  ;  acid  the 
rice,  and  stir  the  whole  over  a  hot  fire  for  five  minutes. 
Draw  the  pan  out  of  the  heat,  season  with  the  powder, 
salt  and  pepper,  stir  well,  and  pour  in  the  boiling  water. 
Cover  the  stew-pan,  and  boil  rapidly  for  ten  minutes, 
after  which  set  it  in  a  very  slow  heat,  to  cook  for  forty 
minutes,  when  the  curry  is  ready  to  serve. 

SALSIFY,    OR    OYSTER    PLANT. 

Wash  the  salsify  with  a  rough  cloth,  place  it  in  a 
kettle  with  plenty  of  boiling,  salted  water,  and  boil 
slowly  until  nearly  done,  which  will  be  an  hour.  Drain, 
and  when  cool  enough  to  handle,  scrape  off  the  dark 
skin  on  the  outside.  Cut  the  vegetable  in  slices,  return 
it  to  the  kettle,  add  hot  water,  and  let  it  simmer  fifteen 
minutes.  Drain  again,  add  milk  to  nearly  cover,  and 
thicken  the  milk  to  a  cream  with  a  little  flour  stirred 
to  a  paste  with  cold  milk.  Add  butter,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  and  serve.  Salsify  prepared  in  this  way  will  not 
turn  dark,  and  it  is  much  more  easily  scraped  after  being 
boiled  than  before. 

FRIED    SALSIFY. 

Boil,  scrape  off  the  skin,  cut  in  slices,  and  fry  like  pars- 
nips. 

Salsify  fritters  are  made  the  same  as  parsnip  fritters. 


VEGETABLES.  .  287 

SPINACH. 

Spinach  requires  very  careful  washing  to  rid  it  of  the 
sand  with  which  the  leaves  are  so  often  filled.  Pick  the 
spinach  apart,  throwing  out  the  decayed  portions,  and 
place  it  in  a  large  panful  of  water.  Wash  the  spinach 
well,  and  lay  it  in  a  second  pan  of  water ;  wash  again 
and  lay  it  back  in  the  first  pan,  which  has  been  refilled 
with  clear  water.  Continue  washing  thus  until  all  trace 
of  sand  has  disappeared.  Then  boil  the  spinach  half  an 
hour  in  two  cupfuls  of  boiling,  salted  water,  turn  it  into  a 
colander,  and  press  out  all  the  water  possible.  With  a 
knife  chop  the  spinach  rather  coarsely,  leaving  it  in  the 
colander  for  this  cutting.  Now  return  it  to  the  kettle  in 
which  it  was  boiled,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  stir  until  very  hot ;  turn  at 
once  into  the  serving  dish,  shape  the  spinach  into  around 
mound,  and  lay  on  the  top  slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs. 
Serve  while  hot. 

SPINACH,    WITH    CREAM. 

Boil,  drain  and  chop  the  spinach  as  directed  above 
and  make  the  following  sauce  : 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Heat  the  butter,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  the  mix- 
ture is  frothy.  Add  the  chopped  spinach,  and  cook  for 
four  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Next  put  in  the  cream, 
salt  and  pepper,  cook  three  minutes,  and  serve  on  nicely 
toasted  bread. 


288  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

SUMMER    SQUASH,    STEAMED. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  this  vegetable.  Unless  the 
squash  is  very  tender,  pare  it  thinly,  cutting  away  little 
but  the  outer  rind.  Cut  it  in  slices,  and  if  the  seeds  are 
young  and  small,  do  not  remove  them  ;  if  at  all  large, 
however,  take  them  out,  lay  the  squash  on  a  plate,  set  it 
in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  steam  until 
tender,  usually  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Take  it 
from  the  steamer,  drain  off  any  water  that  may  be  upon 
it,  place  it  in  a  stew-pan,  and  mash  well.  Add  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  set  the  stew-pan  on  the  back 
of  the  range  for  fifteen  minutes,  uncovered,  for  the  squash 
to  dry  as  much  as  possible,  stirring  it  once  or  twice 
meanwhile.  Re-heat,  and  serve.  This  kind  of  squash 
may  also  be  boiled  and  served  in  the  same  way,  but  it  is 
rather  more  wet  when  boiled  than  when  steamed. 

FRIED    SQUASH. 

Summer  squash,  which  is  often  disappointing  because 
of  its  sogginess,  will  be  found  very  satisfactory  when 
cooked  in  the  following  way  :  Peel  the  squash  thinly,  cut 
it  into  slices  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  sprinkle  each  slice 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  it  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in 
cracker-crumbs,  and  fry  in  a  frying-pan  until  crisp  and 
brown.  Drain  well,  and  serve. 

WINTER   SQUASH. 

When  the  shell  is  hard,  split  the  squash,  remove  the 
seeds,  and  steam  or  boil  until  soft.  Scrape  out  the  soft 
part  of  the  squash,  and  to  every  pint  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  salt 


VEGETABLES.  289 

and  pepper  to  taste.  Winter  squashes  are  also  baked  in 
the  shell  after  the  seeds  have  been  removed.  The  soft 
part  is  then  scraped  out,  mashed,  seasoned  as  directed 
above,  and  served  hot. 

STEWED    TOMATOES. 

Pour  boiling  water  on  fresh  tomatoes,  and  after  they 
have  remained  covered  a  minute,  take  them  from  this 
water  and  plunge  them  into  cold  water.  With  a  knife  re- 
move the  skins  and  the  hard  stem  ends,  and  cut  the  toma- 
toes in  pieces.  Stew  in  a  granite-ware  or  porcelain-lined 
kettle  for  thirty  minutes ;  then  add  to  every  quart  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  and  a-quarter  of 
a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper.  Stew  until  of  the  desired  thick- 
ness, and  serve.  Some  prefer  to  add  bread-crumbs  or 
cracker-crumbs  for  thickening,  and  to  boil  but  thirty  min- 
utes. Canned  tomatoes  may  be  treated  the  same  as  fresh? 
but  they  do  not  require  to  be  boiled  so  long. 

ITALIAN    TOMATO. 

Half  can  or  a  pint  of  tomatoes. 

One-third  package  of  macaroni. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 

A  little  milk. 

Three  slices  of  bacon. 

A  small  pinch  of  cinnamon. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Cook  the  macaroni  until  tender,  drain  well,  and  nearly 
cover  it  with  milk;  then  add  the  cheese,  and  boil  slowly 
until  the  cheese  is  dissolved.  Fry  the  bacon  in  a  frying- 
pan,  pour  off  all  but  a  large  table-spoonful  of  the  fat,  add 
the  tomatoes  to  the  pan,  and  cook  until  they  are  soft.  Sea- 
19 


2QO  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

son  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  the  bit  of  spice. 
Place  the  two  dishes  thus  made  together,  pouring  the 
tomato  over  the  macaroni ;  and  bake  until  brown.  This 
is  sometimes  served  without  baking. 

SPANISH    TOMATO. 

One  small  onion. 

One  small  green  pepper. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Six  fresh  tomatoes. 

Three  crackers. 

Salt  to  taste. 

Chop  the  onion  and  the  pepper  very  fine,  peel  and  slice 
the  tomatoes,  and  roll  the  crackers.  Place  the  tomatoes 
in  a  baking  dish,  sprinkle  over  them  the  salt,  onion  and 
pepper,  add  all  the  rolled  cracker  in  one  layer,  and  dot 
the  top  with  the  butter,  cut  in  pieces.  Bake  slowly  an 
hour. 

BAKED    TOMATOES. 

Peel  the  tomatoes  and  cut  them  in  slices  a-quarter  of 
an  inch  thick.  Place  a  layer  of  tomatoes  in  a  pudding 
dish,  and  sprinkle  over  them  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Make  a  stuffing  of 

One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  crumbs,  and  add  the  salt,  pep- 
per and  sugar.  Spread  the  mixture  thickly  upon  the 
tomatoes,  using  all  of  it,  and  add  another  layer  of  toma- 
toes. Dot  the  top  with  pieces  of  butter,  dust  with  pepper 


VEGETABLES.  29 1 

and  a  little  sugar,  strew  with  dry  crumbs,  and  bake  cov- 
ered for  half  an  hour;  then  remove  the  lid.  and  bake  un- 
til brown. 

TURNIPS,    MASHED. 

Peel  the  turnips,  cut  them  in  slices,  and  lay  them  in 
cold  water  for  half  an  hour ;  then  place  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  pour  boiling  water  over  them,  and  boil  slowly  until 
tender,  at  least  forty-five  minutes  being  required.  Drain 
well,  and  mash  the  turnips  in  the  stew-pan ;  stand  the  pan 
ten  minutes  uncovered  on  the  back  of  the  range  to  dry  the 
turnips  well,  stirring  them  frequently.  Season  with  but- 
ter, salt  and  pepper.  Turnips  require  more  pepper  than 
any  other  vegetable. 

TURNIPS    IN    CREAM. 

Peel  the  turnips,  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  and  boil 
until  tender.  Drain,  add  milk  to  nearly  cover,  and  when 
the  milk  boils,  thicken  it  to  a  cream  with  a  little  flour, 
stirred  to  a  paste  with  cold  milk.  Add  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  boil  two  minutes,  and  serve. 

STEWED   TURNIPS. 

Peel  and  slice  the  turnips  and  cut  them  into  cubes- 
Boil  until  tender,  drain,  and  for  three  pints  of  turnips 
measured  before  cooking,  allow 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One-half  pint  of  stock. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea  spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cook  rapidly  until  the  stock  has  almost  boiled  away, 
then  serve. 


SALADS. 

* 

"  Mingle,  mingle,  mingle 
You  that  mingle  may." 

SHAKSPERE. 

GREEN  vegetables  that  are  eaten  raw  and  dressed  with 
oils,  acids,  salt  and  pepper  are  classed  as  salads.  Pota- 
toes, string  beans,  beets,  asparagus  and  many  other 
vegetables  which  have  been  cooked  are  eaten  cold  with  a 
salad  dressing.  Lobster,  salmon  and  other  kinds  of 
cooked  fish,  eggs,  chicken  and  delicate  meats  are  com- 
bined with  lettuce,  cresses  or  celery  and  salad  dressing, 
and  furnish  many  appetizing  dishes. 

A  Frenchman  thinks  he  cannot  eat  his  dinner  without 
a  salad,  and  it  would  be  well  if  all  Americans  had  the 
same  appreciation  of  this  wholesome,  refreshing  and,  at 
the  same  time,  economical  dish. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  dressing  which  are  in  very  gen- 
eral use,  the  mayonnaise  and  the  French  dressing.  Epi- 
cures prefer  the  simple  French  dressing  for  salads  served 
without  fish  or  fowl ;  and  for  chicken  and  fish  salads  and 
for  some  kinds  of  vegetables,  such  as  tomatoes  and  cauli- 
flowers, they  use  the  mayonnaise  sauce.  This  choice  of 
dressings  is  almost  universal  in  London  and  Paris.  In 
America  we  use  the  mayonnaise  on  all  salads,  which  is 

292 


SALADS.  293 

really  to  be  deplored.  A  simple  salad  with  French 
dressing  is,  after  all,  the  most  satisfactory  when  one  has 
been  served  with  a  heavy  dinner  before  it. 

In  giving  recipes  for  salad-dressing  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible to  mention  exact  quantities,  especially  when  we  con- 
sider the  diversity  of  tastes.  Delmonico,  it  is  said,  used 
but  one  yolk  as  a  foundation  for  a  quart  of  oil,  with  salt 
and  cayenne  for  seasoning.  In  preparing  dressing,  use  a 
silver  or  wooden  fork,  a  large  soup-plate,  which  should 
be  very  cold,  the  best  oil  and  strong  vinegar.  A  com- 
mon question  is,  "  What  can  we  use  in  place  of  oil  ? " 
Cream  and  melted  butter  may  be  used,  but  they  by  no 
means  take  the  place  of  the  oil.  Green  vegetables  that 
should  be  crisp  but  have  become  wilted  can  be  freshened 
by  being  laid  in  ice-water  for  at  least  an  hour  before 
using,  and  then  dried  carefully  on  a  soft  towel,  care 
being  taken  not  to  bruise  them.  The  dressing  should 
never  be  mixed  with  any  salad  until  it  is  needed  to  serve, 
and  both  salad  and  dressing  should  be  served  on  as  cold 
a  dish  as  possible. 


SIMPLE    FRENCH    DRESSING. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil. 
One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  onion,  scraped  fine. 


Mix  the  pepper  and  salt  together,  add  the  oil  and 
onion,  and  then  pour  in  the  vinegar.  Mingle  all  well, 
and  pour  the  dressing  over  the  salad. 


294 


THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


MAYONNAISE;  DRESSING,  NO.  i. 

To  make  a  pint  of  dressing  (which  should  be  suffi- 
cient for  twelve  persons)  use 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 
One  tea-spoonful  of  mustard. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cayenne. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
Twelve  table-spoonfuls  of  olive  oil. 

In  order  to  make  this  dressing  properly,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  all  the  materials  cold.  The  oil  should  stand  in 
the  refrigerator  for  at  least  an  hour  before  being  used. 
Place  the  yolks  in  a  soup-plate,  and  beat  them  a 
minute  with  a  silver  fork ;  then  add  the  salt,  pepper  and 
mustard.  Stir  these  well  together,  and  commence  to  add 
the  oil,  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  stirring  continuously. 
When  the  mixture  becomes  thick  and  ropy,  the  oil  may 
be  added  more  freely ;  and  when  the  liquid  is  at  this 
stage,  the  vinegar  should  be  added,  half  a  tea-spoonful  at 
a  time.  After  the  dressing  has  become  very  thick,  the  oil 
may  be  added,  a  table-spoonful  at  a  time.  When  all  the 
vinegar  is  added,  commence  to  add  the  lemon  juice  in 
the  same  way,  and  stir  continually  until  all  the  oil  and 
lemon  juice  are  added.  Set  the  dressing  on  the  ice  for 
half  an  hour  before  using. 

If  the  taste  of  the  oil  is  not  liked,  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  thick  sweet  cream,  well  whipped,  may  be  stirred  into 
the  dressing  at  the  last ;  this  tones  down  the  taste  of  the 
oil.  Thick  whipped  cream  may  be  used  in  place  of  half 
the  oil,  if  the  latter  is  very  disagreeable  to  those  served. 


SALADS.  295 

In  warm  weather  this  dressing  may  be  prepared  in  half 
the  time  by  making  it  in  a  bowl  set  in  a  pan  of  cracked 
ice  and  having  both  eggs  and  oil  as  cold  as  possible. 

Should  the  dressing  break  or  curdle,  stir  into  it  at  once 
the  well  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  which  will  render  all 
smooth  again. 

MAYONNAISE    DRESSING,    NO.  2. 

One  egg -yolk  (raw). 

One  egg-yolk  (cooked). 

One-half  cupful  of  oil. 

Vinegar  to  thin. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Six  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce. 

Boil  an  egg  ten  minutes,  and  when  cold,  take  out 
the  yolk,  place  it  in  a  bowl,  and  mash  finely  with  the 
back  of  a  silver  spoon  or  with  a  wooden  salad  masher, 
which  is  like  a  diminutive  potato  masher.  When  the 
yolk  is  like  powder,  add  the  yolk  of  the  raw  egg,  and  stir 
until  the  mixture  is  smooth ;  then  put  in  the  sugar,  salt, 
pepper,  mustard  and  sauce.  When  the  whole  is  well 
mixed,  add  the  oil  by  degrees,  stirring  continually,  and  as 
soon  as  all  is  used,  stir  in  sufficient  strong  vinegar  to 
make  the  dressing  the  desired  consistency.  Place  it  on 
the  ice  for  an  hour  at  least  before  using.  If  the  vinegar 
is  not  strong,  the  dressing  will  be  too  thin  before  it  is 
acid  enough. 

TO    COLOR    MAYONNAISE. 

GREEN. — Boil  a  double  handful  of  spinach  until  ten- 


296  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

der;  then  drain,  cool  and  squeeze  it  dry.  Pound  or 
mash  the  spinach  well,  adding  a  spoonful  of  the  mayon- 
naise. Pass  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  it 
with  the  dressing.  Green  peas,  boiled  and  mashed,  are 
also  used  for  this  purpose,  but  the  color  is  not  so  deep  as 
the  other. 

RED. — Pound  the  coral  of  a  lobster,  pass  it  through  a 
fine  sieve,  and  add  it  to  the  dressing.  Dressing  is  often 
colored  in  this  way  when  needed  for  lobster  or  fish  salad. 

POTATO    MAYONNAISE    DRESSING. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  mashed  potato. 
One  egg  (yolk  only). 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  oil. 
One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
Four  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce. 

Mash  the  potato  very  smooth,  and  when  it  is  cold,  add 
the  beaten  yolk  of  the  egg,  beating  both  together  until 
light ;  then  put  in  the  mustard,  salt,  pepper  and  sauce. 
When  these  are  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  potato,  add 
the  oil  a  few  drops  at  a  time,  until  all  but  one  table- 
spoonful  has  been  used ;  then  add  the  vinegar  and  the 
balance  of  the  oil.  This  dressing  will  keep  a  week  in  a 
cool  place. 

COOKED    CREAM    SALAD   DRESSING. 

Three  eggs  (yolks). 

One  table-spoonful  of  thick,  sweet  cream. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice. 


SALADS.  297 

One  salt-spoonful  of  celery  salt. 
One-eighth  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Beat  the  eggs  lightly,  add  the  cream,  the  butter,vmelted 
(but  not  to  an  oil),  and  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  stir- 
ring all  the  time,  and  beating  well  after  each  addition. 
Set  the  bowl  containing  the  dressing  in  a  saucepan  of  hot 
water,  and  stir  rapidly  until  the  dressing  thickens.  Set 
it  on  the  ice  to  cool  thoroughly  before  using. 

CREAM    SALAD    DRESSING. 

Two  eggs  (yolks),  hard-boiled. 

One-half  dessert-spoonful  of  made  mustard. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Vinegar  to  thin. 

One  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-eighth  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Five  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce. 

One-half  tea-cupful  of  rich,  sweet  cream. 

Boil  the  eggs  hard,  cool  them  and  take  out  the  yolks. 
Mash  the  latter  to  a  powder  in  a  bowl,  and  add  the  salt, 
pepper,  mustard,  sauce  and  butter.  Stir  after  each  addi- 
tion until  the  whole  is  well  mixed;  then  pour  in  grad- 
ually the  cream,  and  when  the  mixture  is  thick,  add 
vinegar  to  thin  to  the  desired  consistency.  Set  the  dress- 
ing on  the  ice  one  hour  before  using. 

SALAD    DRESSING   WITHOUT    CREAM    OR    OIL. 

Two  eggs  (whites  and  yolks). 
One  tea-spoonful  of  dry  mustard. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 


298  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 
One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  tea-cupful  of  vinegar. 

Beat  the  whites  and  the  yolks  separately  and  then  to- 
gether, and  add  salt,  sugar  and  the  mustard.  Rub  the 
butter  and  the  corn-starch  to  a  cream,  and  put  them  in, 
stirring  all  well  together.  Place  the  bowl  containing  the 
mixture  into  a  sauce-pan  of  hot  water,  and  stir  constantly 
until  the  dressing  thickens.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and 
gradually  pour  in  the  vinegar,  stirring  all  the  time.  If 
the  vinegar  is  too  strong,  dilute  with  a  little  water,  but 
this  quantity  of  dressing  allows  for  only  a  cupful  of 
liquid. 

COOKED    SALAD    DRESSING. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  dry  mustard. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  -oil  or  melted  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Twelve  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  separately  and 
then  together ;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients, 
stirring  constantly.  Set  the  bowl  containing  the  mix- 
ture in  a  sauce-pan  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  until  the 
liquid  thickens,  stirring  all  the  time.  Set  the  dressing 
on  the  ice,  and  use  when  perfectly  cold. 

CHICKEN    SALAD. 

Use  only  tender  chickens  for  salad.  Boil  them,  and 
let  them  cool  in  the  water  in  which  thev  were  boiled. 


SALADS.  299 

When  perfectly  cold,  remove  the  skin  and  cut  the  meat 
in  dice.  If  the  salad  is  to  be  particularly  nice,  use  only 
the  white  meat,  saving  the  dark  for  croquettes.  When 
the  meat  has  been  cut  in  pieces,  set  it  in  a  cold  place 
until  needed.  Wash  and  cut  the  fine  parts  of  celery  into 
half-inch  lengths,  throw  the  pieces  into  a  bowl  of  cold 
water,  and  leave  them  at  least  an  hour.  When  ready 
to  serve,  dry  the  celery,  and  mix  it  with  the  chicken, 
allowing  for  every  pint  of  meat  two-thirds  of  a  pint  of 
celery ;  and  season  the  whole  with  '  celery  salt.  Line 
a  bowl  with  lettuce  leaves,  lay  the  chicken  and  cel- 
ery on  the  leaves,  and  pour  over  them  the  cream  or 
the  mayonnaise  salad-dressing,  allowing  a  cupful  of 
dressing  to  every  pint  of  chicken.  Garnish  with  French 
capers  and  slices  of  cold  boiled  eggs,  or  with  white  celery 
tips. 

Chicken  for  salad  is  often  marinated  before  being  used. 
This  is  done  by  stirring  into  the  cut  meat  a  mixture  con- 
sisting of 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 
One  table-spoonful  of  oil. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

This  quantity  will  marinate  a  quart  of  chicken,  which  is 
then  set  on  the  ice  for  an  hour;  the  chicken  will  by  that 
time  have  absorbed  the  mixture,  and  be  finely  seasoned. 

Chicken  salad  is  as  often  served  without  the  lettuce  as 
with  it,  this  being  a  matter  of  taste.  Veal  cut  in  cubes  is 
sometimes  used  to  increase  the  quantity  of  chicken  when 
a  large  amount  of  salad  is  required  for  any  special  pur- 
pose. The  white  part  of  roast  pork  is  also  sometimes 


300  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK.  • 

used  for  this  purpose,  but  this  is  a  deception  which,  per- 
haps, should  not  be  encouraged. 

LOBSTER    SALAD. 

In  taking  the  meat  from  the  lobster,  the  coral,  if  there 
is  any,  should  be  carefully  laid  by  itself.  Cut  the  meat 
into  dice,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place  until  wanted ;  or  ii 
may  be  put  in  a  marinade  of  vinegar,  oil  and  seasoning, 
the  same  as  chicken  salad,  and  be  much  improved  by  the 
extra  seasoning.  To  a  pint  of  meat  will  be  required 
two  heads  of  lettuce  and  half  a  pint  of  mayonnaise  dress- 
ing. Wash  the  lettuce  well,  and  lay  it  in  ice  water  for  at 
least  an  hour.  At  serving  time  stir  part  of  the  dressing 
into  the  lobster  ;  then  dry  the  lettuce  well,  and  place  two 
leaves  together  in  the  form  of  a  shell;  or  if  the  leaves 
are  small,  make  a  nest  of  them,  arranging  them  on  a  flat 
dish.  Put  a  table-spoonful  of  lobster  in  each  shell,  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  dressing  on  top  of  the  lobster.  Garnish 
the  top  of  the  dressing  with  capers,  and  sift  the  pounded 
coral  over  all,  placing  the  claws  of  the  lobster  at  the 
outer  edge  of  the  dish. 

Another  very  attractive  way  of  serving  lobster  salad  is 
as  follows.  When  removing  the  meat  from  the  shells,  be 
careful  not  to  break  the  body  or  tail  shells.  Clean  the 
two  tail  shells  (for  two  lobsters  are  require'd  to  make  any 
reasonable  quantity  of  salad),  and  also  one  of  the  body 
shells  in  cold  water,  washing  them  well  and  drying ; 
then  with  a  pair  of  scissors  remove  the  thin  shell  from 
the  under-side  of  the  tails.  Join  the  shells  together  in 
the  shape  of  a  boat,  the  body  shell  being  in  the  center ; 
and  place  the  boat  on  a  flat  dish.  Put  the  lobster  and 
the  Mayonnaise,  well  mixed,  in  the  boat,  mash  the  coral 


SALADS.  3OI 

fine  and  sprinkle  it  over  the  whole.  Garnish  with  a 
chain  of  the  whites  of  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  slices  and 
linked  together.  Lettuce  is  not  required  with  lobster 
salad  served  in  this  way. 

Canned  lobster  may  be  used  for  salad;  and  it  is  better 
if  opened  some  time  before  using,  that  the  close,  airless 
smell  may  pass  away. 

FISH    SALAD. 

The  remains  of  almost  any  cold  fish  may  be  used  in 
this  way  very  satisfactorily,  but  salad  is  more  successful 
when  made  of  fish  that  will  flake  nicely,  such  as  salmon, 
cod  or  haddock.  Flake  the  fish  coarsely,  and  mix  it 
lightly  with  dressing.  The  potato  mayonnaise  is  espe- 
cially nice  with  fish.  Lay  the  fish  on  a  bed  of  let- 
tuce, pour  the  remainder  of  the  salad  dressing  on  it,  and 
serve  at  once.  Canned  salmon  maybe  used  for  salad.  A 
few  slices  of  cold  boiled  potatoes  form  a  palatable  addi- 
tion to  a  fish  salad. 

VEGETABLE   SALADS. 

Any  remains  of  cooked  vegetables  may  be  most  appe- 
tizingly  served  as  a  salad,  but  certain  kinds  combine  bet- 
ter than  others.  In  thus  uniting  vegetables,  those  of  deli- 
cate flavor  should  form  the  body  of  the  salad,  while  only 
a  small  proportion  of  those  that  are  strong-flavored 
should  be  used.  Beets,  being  sweet,  should  be  used 
sparingly.  A  salad  of  vegetables  may  be  made  very 
attractive  or  quite  the  reverse.  Each  vegetable  should 
be  cut  up  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Any  kind 
of  dressing  may  be  used,  the  French  being  most  fre- 
quently chosen.  Strew  the  vegetables  in  the  salad  bowl, 


302  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

each  kind  in  a  separate  layer  (not  making  an  "  olla- 
padrida"  or  mix  of  them),  and  sprinkle  each  layer  with 
the  dressing.  A  quart  of  vegetables  will  require  the 
full  quantity  of  dressing  given  in  the  recipe  for  French 
dressing. 

TOMATO   SALAD. 

Mayonnaise  dressing  is  invariably  used  for  this  salad, 
and  it  should  be  made  thicker,  or,  rather,  less  vinegar 
should  be  used,  for  two  reasons :  the  tomato  itself,  being 
so  largely  acid,  does  not  require  the  dressing  to  be  so 
piquant,  and  the  tomato  gives  off  so  much  juice  that  the 
dressing  is  much  thinned  by  it.  The  dressing,  therefore, 
should  be  quite  thick.  When  this  salad  is  to  be  served 
as  a  separate  course,  choose  tomatoes  that  are  not  too 
large,  and  peel  them  carefully  with  a  sharp  knife,  tak- 
ing care  to  preserve  the  round  shape  of  the  fruit. 
Set  them  on  the  ice  for  an  hour;  then  take  them  up,  and 
with  a  corer  take  out  a  neat  piece  from  the  stem  portion 
of  each.  This  may  also  be  done  with  a  sharp-pointed 
knife.  Fill  the  cavity  thus  made  with  mayonnaise,  heap- 
ing it  up  as  much  as  possible.  Set  the  tomatoes  on  three 
or  four  crisp  lettuce  leaves  laid  with  their  points  outward, 
and  serve  a  tomato  to  each  person  at  table.  There  are 
many  other  ways  of  preparing  this  salad.  A  simple  plan 
is  to  peel  the  tomatoes,  lay  them  on  the  ice  to  thoroughly 
chill,  cut  them  in  rather  thick  slices,  lay  the  slices  in  a 
salad  bowl  or  on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  the  mayonnaise 
over  all,  using  no  lettuce  at  all.  Serve  a  slice  to  each 
one  at  table.  The  tomatoes  may  also  be  peeled, 
chilled,  cut  in  halves  and  set  in  a  nest  of  lettuce  leaves, 
the  dressing  being  poured  over  them  and  one-half  served 


SALADS.  303 

to  each  person.  The  last  method  is  very  convenient 
when  the  tomatoes  are  too  large  to  serve  one  to  each  per- 
son. 

POTATO    SALAD. 

There  is  no  salad  in  which  there  is  such  an  opportunity 
for  a  variety  of  combinations  as  in  this.  New  potatoes 
or  the  German  potatoes  are  the  best  for  the  purpose ;  a 
ripe,  mealy  potato  breaks  into  crumbs  and  spoils  the  dish. 
When  new  or  German  potatoes  are  not  obtainable,  do  not 
boil  the  potatoes  quite  so  long  as  for  other  purposes,  thus 
leaving  them  underdone ;  they  can  then  be  cut  in  any  de- 
sired shape. 

The  simplest  potato  salad  is  made  by  slicing  the  pota- 
toes rather  thinly,  arranging  a  layer  in  the  salad  dish  and 
covering  lightly  with  any  dressing  preferred ;  arrange 
another  layer  of  potatoes  and  dressing,  and  so  continue 
until  all  the  potatoes  are  used ;  then  serve.  Potatoes 
and  beets  are  often  used  together.  Cut  them  in  half-inch 
dice  or  in  thin  slices,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Rub  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg  through  a  sieve,  and 
chop  some  parsley  rather  coarsely.  Arrange  m  the  salad 
bowl  alternate  layers  of  potatoes,  beets,  egg,  parsley  and 
dressing,  until  all  the  ingredients  are  used,  reserving 
quite  a  goodly  portion  of  the  dressing  for  the  top  layer, 
and  placing  egg  and  parsley  on  top  of  the  dressing. 
Or  place  the  potatoes,  parsley  and  egg  in  the  center  of 
the  dish  and  a  circle  of  beets  and  lettuce  around  the 
edge ;  and  pour  the  salad  dressing  over  the  whole. 

Onions,  thinly  sliced  and  sparingly  used  are  often 
arranged  in  alternate  layers  with  the  potato.  Many  pro- 
fessional cooks  prefer  to  mix  a  potato  salad  while  the  po- 


304  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

tatoes  are  hot,  as  it  looks  more  appetizing,  will  keep 
longer  and  has  less  of  the  peculiar  soggy  taste  than 
when  made  with  cold  potatoes. 

LETTUCE    SALAD. 

Choose  for  this  the  crisp  part  of  the  lettuce,  lay  it  in 
cold  water  for  an  hour,  dry  well,  and  arrange  it  in  a 
salad  bowl.  Pour  over  the  center  of  the  dish  any  of  the 
dressings  given ;  mayonnaise  is  most  generally  used,  but 
after  a  heavy  dinner  the  French  dressing  is  much  to  be 
preferred  to  any  other. 

The  following  vegetables  may  be  used  the  same  as 
lettuce : 

Endive.  Water-cress.  Sorrel. 

Pepper-grass.          Nasturtium  Blossoms.  Dandelion. 

CREAM    CABBAGE    SALAD. 

Chop  the  cabbage  fine.  Put  in  a  saucepan  enough 
cream  to  nearly  cover  the  cabbage,  and  add  to  it 

One  egg,  well  beaten. 
A  pinch  of  red  pepper  or  mustard. 
One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 
A  little  salt. 

Stir  constantly  until  the  milk  thickens,  remove  from 
the  fire,  and  when  cool,  pour  the  liquid  over  the  cabbage, 
mixing  it  well  in.  Let  the  salad  stand  an  hour  be- 
fore serving.  If  there  is  no  cream  at  hand,  use  milk, 
with  a  generous  spoonful  of  butter  to  make  it  rich 
enough. 


SALADS.  305 

CABBAGE   SALAD. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar. 

One  egg  (yolk  only). 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  chopped  cabbage. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Chop  the  cabbage  fine,  and  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, using  none  in  the  dressing.  If  the  cabbage  is 
wilted,  soak  it  in  ice-water  or  cold  water  for  an  hour 
before  chopping  it.  Heat  the  vinegar,  and  if  very  strong, 
dilute  it  with  water.  Beat  the  yolk  of  the  egg  well ;  then 
stir  the  corn-starch  into  the  milk,  and  put  in  the  egg, 
beating  all  well  together.  Add  this  gently  to  the  boiling 
vinegar ;  the  mixture  will  not  curdle,  but  will  become  a 
creamy  dressing  when  done.  When  the  dressing  has 
boiled  two  minutes,  take  it  from  the  fire,  pour  it  over  the 
cabbage  while  still  hot,  and  set  the  salad  away  in  a  cool 
place  ;  serve  when  cold.  If  desired,  the  dressing  may  be 
cooled  before  being  poured  over  the  'cabbage.  This 
salad  is  very  delicious. 

CHEESE   SALAD. 

One-half  pound  of  old  cheese,  grated. 

One  hard-boiled  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salad  oil. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard. 

Rub  to  a  powder  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  and  when  cold, 
add  the  oil ;  afteY  these  are  well  mixed,  put  in  in  the 

20 


306  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

order  named  the  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  mustard  and  cheese. 
Work  all  well  together  before  pouring  in  the  vinegar. 
Serve  in  a  crab  shell,  if  one  is  obtainable.  This  salad 
closely  resembles  deviled  crab  and  makes  a  good  relish 
at  tea  or  luncheon.  It  should  be  eaten  with  crackers 
and  butter. 

SALAD   SANDWICHES. 

These  are  very  delicious  for  picnics  or  for  traveling. 
Mix  a  small  quantity  of  mayonnaise  dressing  with  finely 
chopped  lobster  or  chicken.  Cover  a  small  slice  of  bread 
with  lettuce,  then  spread  a  layer  of  salad,  and  cover  with 
lettuce  and  bread.  Wrap  the  sandwich  in  tinfoil  or  oiled 
paper. 

VEGETABLES    FOR    SALADS. 

1.  Lettuce  alone. 

2.  Lettuce  and  water-cress  or  pepper-grass,  with  small  radishes  for  a 

garnish. 

3.  Lettuce  and  chives,  with  olives  for  a  garnish. 

4.  Lettuce  and  celery,  the  latter  being  cut  into  inch  pieces. 

5.  Lettuce  and  sorrel. 

6.  Lettuce  and  anchovies,  the  latter  being  cut  into  thin  strips 

7.  Endive  alone. 

8.  Endive  and  water-cress. 

9.  Endive  and  celery,  beets  and  hard-boiled  eggs ;  the  endive  being 

placed  in  the  center,  then  a  row  of  eggs  and  next  a  row  of  beets, 
with  an  edge  of  fringed  celery. 

10.  Water-cress  and  beets,  garnished  with  olives,  the  beets  being  cut 
in  dice. 

u.  Sliced  cucumbers  and  sliced  new  onions. 
12.  Dandelions. 

SALAD    NOTES. 

Condensed   milk  may  be    used  in  place  of   cream    in 


SALADS.  307 

making   dressings  requiring  cream,  but  the  latter  is,  of 
course,  to  be  preferred. 

A  good  Tartar  sauce  is  made  by  beating  into  half  a 
pint  of  mayonnaise  dressing  half  a  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  pickles,  olives  and  capers.  A  salad  made  of 
several  kinds  of  vegetables  is  called  a  salade  maddoine. 


CHEESE   DISHES. 

"  He  hath  never  fed  of  the  dainties  that  are  bred  in  a  book." 

SHAKSPERE. 

IN  England,  and  at  almost  every  well-appointed  table 
in  America,  cheese  is  a  positive  necessity.  It  may  be  re- 
garded as  our  most  concentrated  food,  since  it  contains 
twice  as  much  nutriment  as  any  other  known  substance. 
Being  difficult  of  digestion  it  should  be  eaten  only  in 
small  quantities.  Cooked  or  melted  cheese  is  much 
more  wholesome  than  when  in  a  raw  state,  but  the  cook- 
ing of  cheese  is  singularly  neglected  in  this  country — 
in  fact,  it  is  practically  an  unknown  art. 

Among  the  best  English  cheeses  are  the  Stilton 
and  Cheshire,  and  the  best  French  varieties  are  the 
Neufchatel,  Brie  and  Roquefort,  the  last  named  be- 
ing one  of  the  most  popular  kinds  of  cheese  known. 
The  Gruyere,  a  Swiss  cheese,  is  also  well  liked ;  it 
is  made  of  new  milk  and  flavored  with  a  powdered 
herb.  French  mustard,  pepper  and  salt  are  passed 
at  table  when  this  cheese  is  served.  The  Roquefort 
cheese  is  made  of  goats'  and  sheep's  milk.  Parmesan 
cheese,  an  Italian  variety,  is  made  of  skimmed  milk  and 
is  high  flavored  and  very  harct ;  it  is  never  sent  to  market 
until  it  is  six  months  old  and  is  often  kept  three  or  four 

308 


CHEESE  DISHES.  309 

years.  It  is  used  extensively  in  grated  form  for  cooking, 
and  can  be  purchased  already  grated. 

American  cheeses  are  exported  in  large  quantities  to 
England,  where  they  are  held  in  high  favor.  One  of  the 
best  of  these  makes  is  the  "  English  Dairy,"  made  in 
Otsego  County,  New  York.  It  is  of  a  dark-yellow  color, 
and  is  very  rich  and  highly  flavored.  A  milder,  but 
equally  well-flavored  cheese,  is  made  at  Milan,  Cayuga 
Co.,  N.  Y.  The  Stilton  cheese,  made  in  the  latter  county, 
can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the  English  article  of 
the  same  name.  In  serving  this  cheese,  the  top  should 
be  cut  off  to  form  a  cover,  and  the  cheese  should  be 
neatly  encircled  with  a  napkin.  When  removed  from  the 
table,  the  cover  should  be  replaced. 

Cheese  is  cut  into  little  squares  and  passed  in  a  glass 
cheese-dish.  When  forming  a  separate  course  at  dinner, 
it  should  come  just  before  the  dessert.  It  is  an  English 
fashion  to  serve  celery  or  cucumbers  with  cheese.  Thin 
milk  crackers  or  wafer  biscuit,  placed  in  the  oven  a 
moment  to  make  them  crisp,  should  be  served  with  the 
cheese,  and  butter  for  spreading  the  crackers  should  also 
be  passed,  this  being  the  only  time  it  is  customarily 
allowed  for  dinner. 

Macaroni  with  cheese,  Welsh  rarebit  and  cheese  ome- 
let are  .good  for  a  cheese  course.  The  Welsh  rarebit 
makes  an  especially  pretty  course.  It  is  served  on  little 
silver  chafing  dishes  about  four  inches  square,  one  of 
which,  standing  in  a  plate,  is  served  to  each  person  at 
table.  The  reservoir  contains  boiling  water,  and  the  little 
platter  holds  the  slice  of  Welsh  rarebit,  which  is  thus  kept 
hot. 


3 1 0  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

WELSH    RAREBIT. 

This  is  a  favorite  dish  for  gentlemen's  suppers  and  for 
luncheons.  Cut  bread  into  thin  slices,  shape  these  into 
diamonds  or  squares,  toast  them,  and  while  hot,  butter 
lightly.  With  a  tea-spoon  dip  boiling  water  upon  the  toast 
to  moisten  slightly,  wetting  only  the  unbuttered  side. 
Place  each  slice  on  a  separate  hot  plate,  allowing  one  for 
each  person  at  table ;  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt,  pour  over 
the  toast  enough  melted  cheese  to  cover,  and  serve  the  mo- 
ment this  is  done,  since  otherwise  the  cheese  will  harden, 
the  toast  will  cool,  and  the  dish  will  be  altogether  spoiled. 
Rich,  new  cheese  should  be  chosen  for  this  purpose,  as 
it  melts  more  easily.  The  cheese  should  be  put  in  a  cup 
to  be  melted.  If  the  rarebit  is  stringy  and  tough,  the 
cheese  has  not  been  sufficiently  rich. 

This  simple  recipe  is  a  decidedly  good  one,  but  there 
are  many  different  ways  of  making  the  dish.  Some  spread 
a  little  mustard  over  the  toast,  others  add  ale  to  the 
cheese,  or  dip  the  toast  in  ale  instead  of  using  hot  water. 
Another  method  is  to  serve  a  poached  egg  on  each  slice  of 
toast  and  cheese,  and  another  to  mix  the  yolks  of  eggs 
with  the  melted  cheese. 

WELSH   RAREBIT,    WITH    EGGS. 

One  cupful  of  grated  cheese. 
One  egg  (yolk  only). 
One-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  milk. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Prepare  the  toast  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Place  the  milk  in  a  porcelain-lined  stew-pan,  and  when 
hot,  put  in  the  cheese,  and  stir  continually  until  the  latter 


CHEESE  DISHES.  3 1 1 

is  melted.     Add  the  salt,  pepper  and  the  beaten  yolk,  stir 
but  a  moment,  and  pour  the  liquid  over  the  toast. 

WELSH    RAREBIT,    WITH    ALE. 

This  is  the  way  a  rarebit  is  generally  prepared  in  Eng- 
land. 

One  pound  of  cheese. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  wine-glassful  of  ale. 

Put  the  butter  and  ale  in  a  porcelain-lined  stew-pan, 
and  when  hot,  stir  in  the  cheese  cut  into  dice.  Stir  and 
cook  until  all  are  blended  to  a  smooth  paste.  Prepare 
the  toast  as  above,  pour  this  mixture  over  it,  and  serve 
very  hot.  Single  Gloucester  cheese  can  always  be  relied 
upon  in  preparing  rarebits  in  this  way. 

CHEESE    SOUFFLE^ 

Two  and  a-half  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Three  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  pint  (scant)  of  milk. 
One-quarter  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well,  thin  them  with  a  little 
of  the  milk,  and  add  the  grated  cheese.  Rub  the  flour 
to  a  paste  with  a  little  more  of  the  milk.  Heat  in  a 
porcelain-lined  stew-pan  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  and 
when  it  boils,  stir  in  the  flour  paste.  Stir  until  the  whole 
is  smooth  and  creamy,  and  add  the  other  mixture  of 
cheese  and  yolks.  Boil  the  liquid  about  a  minute,  or  until 
the  cheese  is  fully  melted,  and  remove  from  the  fire. 
Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  them 
into  the  mixture.  Fill  some  paper  cases  with  this  prepara- 
tion, bake  fifteen  minutes  in  a  hot  oven,  and  serve  at 


3  T  2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

once.  Cases  for  baking  the  souffle'  may  be  purchased 
from  a  confectioner,  or  they  may  be  made  with  very  little 
trouble.  Silver  scollop  shells  are  also  used  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  are,  of  course,  more  elegant. 

RAMEKINS. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  mustard. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  egg. 

Boil  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  until  soft,  and  add  the  but- 
ter, mustard,  salt,  pepper  and  cheese  and  the  yolk  of  the 
egg.  When  all  are  well  mixed,  stir  in  the  white  of  the 
egg,  beaten  to '  a  stiff  froth.  Put  the  mixture  in  paper 
cases,  filling  each  case  but  three-quarters  full,  and  bake 
five  or  six  minutes.  The  ramekins  should  be  puffed  high 
above  the  edge  of  the  paper,  and  should  be  served 
immediately,  else  they  will  fall.  They  will  make  a  pretty 
cheese  course  for  dinner. 

CHEESE    au  gratin. 

Four  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  grated  cheese. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper 
Six  tea-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Butter  a   suitable  number  of   individual  dishes.     Beat 


CHEESE  DISHES.  313 

the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  to  them 
the  yolks  and  seasoning.  Mix  well,  and  add  the  cheese 
and  then  the  milk.  Pour  this  mixture  into  the  little 
dishes,  sprinkle  each  lightly  with  the  crumb,  and  bake 
for  eight  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CHEESE   PUFFS* 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  cheese. 

Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  water. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-fifth  tea- spoonful  of  pepper. 

Wet  the  flour  in  a  little  of  the  water  until  it  forms  a 
smooth  paste,  and  add  the  cheese,  salt  and  pepper. 
Place  the  rest  of  the  water  and  the  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
and  when  boiling,  add  the  flour  mixture.  Cook  three 
minutes,  stirring  all  the  time ;  remove  the  mixture  from 
the  fire,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the 
eggs  unbeaten,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat  the  batter  at 
least  ten  minutes.  Butter  a  baking-pan  lightly,  and  drop 
the  mixture  into  it,  using  a  heaping  tea-spoonful  for  each 
puff,  and  leaving  considerable  space  between  them,  as 
they  increase  threefold  in  size.  Bake  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve  hot.  Sometimes  a  plain  cream  sauce  or  a 
brown  sauce  is  served  with  these  puffs. 

CHEESE   STRAWS. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  Parmesan  cheese. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  milk. 


3 1 4  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

One-half  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  salt-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-eighth  salt-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
One  egg  (yolk  only). 

Mix  the  dry  ingredients,  add  the  milk,  the  yolk  and  the 
butter,  softened.  Mix  all  well  with  a  spoon,  and  when 
smooth,  divide  the  dough  into  two  parts.  Roll  these 
very  thin,  cut  them  into  narrow  strips  three  inches  long, 
and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  fifteen  minutes.  These  straws 
may  be  served  hot  or  cold,  either  as  a  cheese  course  or 
with  lettuce  in  the  salad  course.  They  may  be  arranged 
in  bunches  of  six  or  eight,  each  bundle  being  tied  with 
narrow  ribbon ;  or  they  may  be  piled  on  a  plate  in  log- 
cabin  style. 

COTTAGE    CHEESE,  NO.    I. 

For  making  this  cheese  the  milk  should  not  be  too 
sour ;  as  soon  as  it  gets  thick  it  is  ready  to  use.  Place 
the  pan  of  milk  over  a  kettle  of  hot  water  and  heat  almost 
to  the  boiling  point.  When  it  has  been  in  the  heat  six  or 
eight  minutes,  take  a  large  spoon  and  turn  the  milk  over 
by  spoonfuls,  bringing  the  hot  part  on  top.  When  the 
whey  has  become  so  hot  that  it  cannot  be  touched  by  the 
finger,  turn  all  into  a  colander  to  drain.  When  free  of 
whey,  -add  salt  generously,  and  butter  and  pepper  as 
desired.  Press  the  mixture  into  a  dish,  or  shape  it  into 
small  balls.  This  cheese  is  much  improved  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  at  the  time  of  seasoning. 

COTTAGE    CHEESE,    NO.    2. 

Four  quarts  of  thick  sour  milk. 
Four  tea-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Four  salt-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  cream. 


CHEESE  DISHES.  3  I  5 

Place  the  milk  in  a  pan  on  the  back  of  the  range,  and 
scald  it  until  the  curds  and  whey  are  separated.  Spread 
a  strainer  cloth  over  a  bowl,  and  pour  in  the  milk  ;  lift 
the  edges  of  the  cloth,  draw  them  together,  drain  and 
wring  quite  dry.  Put  the  curds  in  a  small  bowl,  add  the 
seasoning,  and  shape  into  balls.  If  too  soft  to  handle, 
place  the  cheese  in  a  cool  place  for  an  hour,  when  it 
may  be  conveniently  shaped.  If  scalded  too  long,  the 
curds  become  hard  and  brittle. 

TOASTED    CHEESE. 

Cut  the  cheese  in  slices  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
place  these  in  an  oyster  broiler,  and  broil  them  over  very 
hot  coals,  turning  frequently,  until  each  side  is  lightly 
browned.  Serve  with  bread,  and  eat  with  mustard  and 
salt.  This  makes  a  very  nice  luncheon  dish. 


EGGS. 

"  The  vulgar  boil — the  learned  roast,  an  egg." 


POPE. 


IT  is  poor  economy  to  limit  the  family  in  respect  to 
eggs.  They  are  most  nutritious,  and  even  at  a  high 
price,  are  cheaper  than  meat.  They  should  be  used 
freely  by  all,  except  those  who  know  they  cannot  digest 
them.  But  by  this  we  do  not  mean  their  extravagant 
use  in  rich  cake,  nor  their  being  eaten  when  indigestibly 
prepared,  as,  for  instance,  when  hard-boiled  or  fried ; 
but  we  mean  rather  that  they  should  be  freely  partaken 
of  when  simply  cooked.  Throughout  the  spring  and 
summer  eggs  should  form  a  large  part  of  the  fare  at 
breakfast  and  luncheon,  but  if  not  served  in  a  variety  of 
ways,  they  will  soon  become  very  tiresome.  The  most 
healthful  methods  of  preparing  eggs  are  those  by  which 
they  are  not  subjected  to  a  temperature  higher  than  that 
at  which  water  boils.  Eggs  should  never  be  boiled. 
When  boiled  for  three  minutes,  they  are  called  "  soft- 
boiled,"  but  in  reality  they  are  not  soft-boiled  at  all,  since 
one  part  is  hard-boiled,  while  the  other  part  is  scarcely 
cooked  at  all.  An  egg  that  is  properly  cooked  is  not 
boiled.  The  white  when  eaten  should  yield  to  pressure 
like  thick  cream  if  taken  between  the  fingers. 

To  ascertain  the  freshness  of  an  egg  without  breaking 

3*6 


EGGS.  317 

it,  hold  it  before  a  strong  light  or  toward  the  sun;  if 
the  yolk  appears  round  and  the  white  surrounding  it 
clear,  the  chances  are  the  egg  is  good.  Another  test  for 
eggs  is  to  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water ;  the  fresh  ones 
will  sink  immediately,  while  those  that  float  are  doubtful. 
The  shell  of  a  fresh  egg  looks  dull  and  porous." 

TO    PRESERVE    EGGS 

It  is  only  necessary  to  close  the  pores  of  the  shell. 
This  may  be  done  by  varnishing  or  dipping  them  in 
melted  suet,  and  then  packing  them  in  bran  or  salt,  with 
the  small  end  downward.  Another  method  that  is  very 
successful  is  as  follows  :  Pack  the  eggs  in  a  stone  jar,  with 
the  small  ends  downward ;  make  a  lime-water  by  pouring 
four  quarts  of  boiling  water  over  a  pound  of  lime,  and 
when  this  is  cold  and  has  settled,  pour  the  water  care- 
fully upon  the  eggs  in  the  jar.  Lay  a  saucer  on  top  of 
the  eggs  to  keep  them  under  the  water,  and  set  the  jar  in 
a  cool,  dark  place. 

BOILED    EGGG. 

Many  people  do  not  care  for  eggs  which  are  boiled  so 
that  the  whites  are  soft,  although  they  know  that  they  are 
far  more  nutritious  when  thus  prepared.  For  those  who 
prefer  boiled  eggs,  the  following  directions  are  given  : 
Place  the  eggs  in  a  sauce-pan  of  boiling  water,  using  a 
table-spoon  or  a  frying-basket  for  the  purpose.  Boil  them 
steadily  for  three  minutes  if  desired  "soft-boiled,"  and 
ten  minutes  if  desired  "  hard-boiled."  , 

There  are  two  methods  of  cooking  them  in  the  more 
nutritious  manner :  First.,  place  the  eggs  in  a  saucepan 
of  cold  water,  and  when  the  water  boils  the  eggs  are 


3 1 8  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

done ;  this  will  take  about  ten  minutes.  Second,  put  six 
eggs  in  a  vessel  that  will  hold  two  quarts,  fill  the  vessel 
with  boiling  water,  cover  it  closely,  and  stand  it  in  a 
warm  place  for  ten  minutes ;  in  this  way  the  eggs  will  be 
cooked  equally  well  in  every  part.  If  the  eggs  are  de- 
sired more  thoroughly  done,  let  them  stand  in  the  hot 
water  ten  or  even  twenty  minutes  longer,  but  do  not 
place  them  on  the  range.  Serve  boiled  eggs  in  a  folded 
napkin. 

In  preparing  eggs  for  garnishing  or  for  salads  they  will 
require  to  be  boiled  at  least  fifteen  minutes. 

If  the  shell  of  an  egg  is  cracked,  pierce  several  small 
holes  in  the  large  end,  and  the  contents  of  the  egg  will 
not  burst  out  in  boiling. 

POACHED    EGGS. 

Break  the  eggs,  one  at  a  time  into  a  saucer.  Place  water 
in  a  saucepan,  salt  it  well,  and  when  it  is  simmering,  drop 
each  egg  lightly  in,  cooking  but  one  egg  at  a  time  if  the 
saucepan  is  small.  More  may  be  cooked  at  once  by  using 
a  large  frying-pan.  The  water  should  not  be  allowed  to 
boil  while  the  eggs  are  cooking,  but  should  be  kept  just 
at  the  boiling  point.  With  a  small  spoon  throw  the  water 
carefully  on  the  top  of  the  egg  to  whiten  it.  The  beauty  of 
a  poached  egg  is  for  the  yolk  to  be  seen  blushing  through 
the  white,  which  should  be  just  sufficiently  hardened  to 
form  a  veil  for  the  yolk.  When  cooked  enough,  take  out 
the  egg  with  a  perforated  ladle,  trim  off  the  ragged  edges, 
and  slip  it  on  a  small,  thin  piece  of  buttered  toast.  When 
all  the  eggs  are  cooked  and  placed  on  their  separate 
pieces  of  toast,  place  on  each  a  bit  of  butter  and  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  pepper. 


EGGS.  319 

Some  cooks  'set  muffin-rings  in  the  water  to  give 
the  eggs  an  even  shape,  poaching  them,  inside  the 
rings.  An  egg-poacher  is  very  convenient  for  this  work. 
Poached  eggs  are  often  placed  in  beef  soup,  one  egg 
being  prepared  for  each  person  at  table.  They  are  also 
served  on  thin  slices  of  boiled  ham,  and  also  in  a  Welsh 
rarebit.  Delmonico,  when  serving  poached  eggs  on 
toast,  sprinkles  sorrel  over  the  top  of  the  egg. 

SCRAMBLED    EGGS. 

This  dish  is  particularly  nice  for  breakfast.  For  six 
persons,  allow 

Five  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  to  them  the  milk,  salt  and 
pepper.  Put  the  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  hot, 
turn  in  the  eggs,  and  stir  continually  until  a  thick,  creamy 
mass  is  formed ;  this  will  not  require  more  than  a  minute 
and  a-half.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  serve  at  once. 
A  little  chopped  parsley  is  sometimes  stirred  into  the 
eggs  just  before  they  are  taken  from  the  fire. 

SPANISH    EGGS. 

These  are  prepared  the  same  as  directed  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  but  before  cooking  the  mixture  add  to  the 
butter  in  the  pan  one  large  tomato,  peeled  and  cut  into 
bits.  Cook  the  tomato  in  the  butter  until  soft,  about  five 
minutes  being  necessary ;  then  turn  in  the  egg  mixture, 
and  finish  as  above. 


320  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

EGGS    IN    TOMATO. 

Six  eggs. 

One  pint  of  tomato. 

One  small  onion. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Cut  the  onion  into  small  pieces,  place  these  with  the 
lomato  in  a  frying-pan,  stew  very  slowly  for  ten  minutes, 
and  add  the  salt  and  pepper.  Set  the  pan  back,  break 
the  eggs  and  slip  them  on  top  of  the  tomato,  taking  care 
not  to  break  the  yolks.  Return  the  pan  to  the  heat,  and 
cook  slowly  until  the  whites  of  the  eggs  are  thoroughly 
set ;  then  prick  the  yolks  and  let  them  mingle  with  the 
tomato  and  whites.  The  mixture  should  be  quite  soft, 
but  the  red  tomatoes  and  the  white  and  yellow  of  the 
eggs  should  be  quite  distinct.  Serve  at  once  on  buttered 
toast. 

EGG   VERMICELLI. 

This  makes  a  most  attractive-looking  dish  for  luncheon. 

Five  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Six  squares  of  toast. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Place  the  eggs  in  boiling  water  and  boil  twenty 
minutes.  Throw  them  into  cold  water,  and  when  cold, 
remove  the  shells,  chop  the  whites  very  fine  and  rub  the 
yolks  through  a  sieve,  or  else  run  them  through  a  potato- 
strainer,  which  will  do  the  work  very  quickly.  Do  not 
mix  the  whites  and  yolks.  Put  the  milk  in  a  double 


EGGS.  321 

boiler  to  boil,  rub  the  butter  and  corn-starch  together, 
and  add  them  to  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  until  creamy,  and 
add  the  whites,  salt,  pepper  and  butter.  Wet  the  edges 
of  the  toast,  butter  it  lightly  and  place  on  a  warm 
dish.  Cover  the  slices  with  the  white  sauce,  apportioning 
it  evenly  to  each  of  the  six  slices  ;  sprinkle  the  strained 
yolks  in  little  heaps  upon  the  tops,  and  serve  at  once, 
after  sifting  on  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 

DEVILED    EGGS. 

Twelve  eggs. 

Two  heaping  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  boiled  ham. 

One  table-spoonful  of  olive  oil. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  mustard. 

Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  and  lay  them  in  cold 
water  for  half  an  hour.  Remove  the  shells  and  cut  the 
eggs  in  halves  lengthwise.  Rub  the  yolks  to  a  smooth 
paste  with  the  oil  and  mustard,  and  add  the  ham,  finely 
chopped,  and  the  salt  and  pepper ;  mix  thoroughly,  and 
fill  the  hollowed  whites  with  the  mixture.  Serve  in  a  bed 
of  water-cress  or  salad. 

For  picnics,  put  the  corresponding  halves  of  each  egg 
together  and  press  them  closely ;  then  cut  white  tissue 
paper  into  pieces  six  inches  square,  fringe  the  opposite 
ends,  roll  one  egg  into  each  paper,  and  twist  the  fringed 
ends  the  same  as  the  coverings  of  bonbons  are  often 
arranged.  Serve  on  a  napkin  in  a  pretty  basket,  gar- 
nished with  smilax  or  myrtle. 

BAKED    EGGS,    NO.    I. 

Break  six  or  eight  eggs  into  a  well  buttered  earthen 

21 


322  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOA'. 

pie-plate,  taking  care  that  each  egg  is  whole  and  does 
not  encroach  upon  the  others  to  mix  or  disturb  the  yolks. 
Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  place  a  bit  of  -butter 
upon  each  egg.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  whites  are 
well  set,  usually  about  eight  minutes.  Serve  hot  with 
rounds  of  buttered  toast,  sending  the  eggs  to  table  in  the 
plate  in  which  they  were  baked. 


BAKED    EGGS,    NO.    2. 

Eight  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 


Place  the  butter  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and  when 
melted,  add  the  flour  ;  stir  until  smooth  and  frothy,  draw 
the  pan  back,  and  gradually  add  the  cold  milk.  When 
the  mixture  boils,  add  the  seasoning,  cook  a  minute, 
stirring  all  the  time,  and  turn  the  sauce  into  a  deep  plate 
used  for  baking  eggs,  or  into  a  deep  earthen  pie-plate. 
Break  the  eggs  carefully  and  drop  them  into  the  sauce, 
taking  care  not  to  break  the  yolks.  Sprinkle  the  parsley 
over  the  eggs  and  sauce,  place  the  dish  in  a  moderate 
oven,  and  bake  until  the  whites  are  set,  usually  six  or 
eight  minutes.  Serve  in  the  same  dish.  If  parsley  is 
not  liked,  it  may  be  omitted  ;  and  if  cheese  is  liked,  a 
table-spoonful  of  grated  Parmesan  may  be  sprinkled  over 
the  eggs. 


EGGS.  323 

CREAMED    EGGS.       (FOR    LENT.) 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  (scant)  of  flour. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  of  a  small  onion. 
Six  slices  of  toast. 

Boil  the  eggs  twenty  minutes,  and  lay  them  in  cold 
water;  when  cold,  remove  the  shells,  and  cut  each  egg 
into  six  pieces.  Cut  the  onion  fine.  Place  the  butter  in 
a  small  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  hot,  slowly  cook  the 
onion  in  it  until  of  a  light  yellow  hue,  taking  care,  how- 
ever, not  to  brown  either  the  butter  or  the  onion,  at  all. 
Remove  the  onion,  add  the  flour  and  stir  until  the  paste 
is  smooth  and  frothy,  but  do  not  let  it  brown  in  the  least. 
Draw  the  pan  back,  gradually  add  the  milk,  return  to  the 
heat,  and  when  the  sauce  boils,  put  in  the  salt,  pepper 
and  eggs.  As  soon  as  the  eggs  are  well  heated,  turn  all 
out  upon  buttered  toast,  and  serve  at  once.  A  few  drops 
of  onion  juice  may  be  used  instead  of  the  onion,  thus 
facilitating  the  work  somewhat. 

FRIED    EGGS. 

The  most  delicate  way  of  frying  eggs  is  to  cook  them 
on  a  pan-cake  griddle.  Heat  the  griddle  almost  as  much 
as  for  pancakes,  butter  it  lightly,  and  slip  the  eggs  upon 
it,  breaking  the  eggs  one  by  one  into  a  saucer  to  make 
sure  that  all  are  fresh.  When  slightly  browned,  turn 
them  carefully  with  a  pan-cake  turner  ;  they  should  be 
done  in  two  minutes. 


324  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

EGG    NESTS. 

For  six  persons,  use 

Six  eggs. 

Six  slices  of  toast. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  and  a-half  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Separate  the  whites  of  the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  and 
place  the  whites  on  a  platter  or  large  plate,  leaving  the 
yolks  in  the  half  shells  until  needed.  Put  the  salt  with 
the  whites,  and  beat  the  latter  to  a  stiff  froth.  Toast  the 
bread,  dip  the  edges  in  hot  water,  spread  generously  with 
butter,  and  place  them  in  a  dripping-pan.  Heap  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  on  the  toast,  make  a  depression  in  the 
center  of  each  mound,  and  put  a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful 
of  butter  and  one  of  the  whole  yolks  in  each  hollow. 
Place  the  pan  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  cook  until  the 
mounds  are  lightly  browned.  A  spoonful  of  chopped 
ham  may  be  spread  on  each  slice  of  toast  before  the 
beaten' white  is  placed  upon  it. 

PICKLED    EGGS. 

These  make  a  nice  accompaniment  for  broiled  steak. 

Six  eggs. 

One  pint  of  vinegar. 

Twenty-four  whole  cloves. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  ground  mustard. 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  throw  them  into  cold 
water,  and  when  cool,  remove  the  shells  and  stick  four 
cloves  into  each  egg.  Put  the  vinegar  on  to  boil,  rub 


EGGS.  325 

the  mustard,  salt  and  pepper  to  a  paste  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  the  cold  vinegar,  and  when  the  vinegar  is 
boiling,  add  the  paste  to  it  and  stir  until  the  whole  is  well 
mixed.  Put  the  eggs  in  a  glass  fruit-jar,  pour  the  boiling 
vinegar  over  them,  cover  well  and  use  after  two  weeks. 

STUFFED    EGGS,    NO.    I. 

For  six  persons,  use 

Six  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Three  drops  of  onion  juice. 

Salt  and  pepper. 

Boil  the  eggs  twenty  minutes,  drop  them  into  cold 
water,  and  when  cool,  remove  the  shells.  Cut  an  even 
slice  from  each  end  of  each  egg,  and  cut  the  eggs  in  two. 
Take  out  the  yolks,  mash  them  until  light  and  smooth, 
and  add  to  them  the  onion  juice  and 

One  quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Mix  all  well  together,  and  heap  the  mixture  in  the 
shape  of  domes  in  the  halves  of  the  whites,  setting  the 
whites  on  end.  Place  the  eggs  on  a  well  buttered  tin 
plate  or  pan,  and  bake  in  the  oven  for  six  minutes.  While 
they  are  baking,  prepare  the  sauce  as  follows  :  Put  the 
remaining  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  it  is  hot,  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  smooth  and 
frothy,  but  not  brown ;  then  gradually  add  the  milk. 


326  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOA'. 

Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  boil  up  once,  arrange  the 
baked  eggs  on  a  warm  dish,  pour  the  sauce  around  them, 
garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  at  once. 

STUFFED  EGGS,  NO.  2. 

These  are  delicious,  but  rather  difficult  to  make.  For 
six  persons,  allow 

Six  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  tongue  or  ham. 
One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 
Salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Boil  the  eggs  fifteen  minutes,  cool  them  in  water, 
remove  the  shells,  and  cut  the  eggs  in  halves  lengthwise  ; 
take  out  the  yolks  carefully,  mash  them  fine,  add  the 
butter  and  finely  chopped  meat  and  also  the  salt  and 
pepper,  and  rub  all  together  until  a  perfectly  smooth 
paste  is  obtained.  Fill  the  whites  with  the  mixture,  and 
press  the  corresponding  halves  together.  Dip  the  egg 
first  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  bread-crumbs,  again  in  the 
egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  for  two  minutes, 
using  a  frying-basket.  When  all  the  eggs  are  cooked, 
pour  around  them  a  sauce  made  of 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt.    . 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 

Rub  the  flour  and  butter  to  a  cream ;  heat  the  milk, 
and  gradually  add  it  to  the  butter  and  flour.  When 
smooth,  return  all  to  the  pan  in  which  the  milk  was 
heated,  and  boil  two  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time  ;  then 
add  the  salt  and  pepper,  when  the  sauce  is  ready  to  use. 


OMELETS.  327 

OMELETS. 

Nothing  is  more  simply  made  than  an  omelet,  yet 
comparatively  few  cooks  can  make  one  properly.  The 
eggs  either  stick  to  the  pan  or  are  overdone  and  tough. 
Much  stress  is  laid  in  many  cook-books  upon  the  neces- 
sity of  an  omelet-pan,  but  any  smooth  iron  frying-pan 
that  is  not  too  small  for  the  number  of  eggs  used  will  do 
equally  well.  There  is  also  much  said  about  the  pro- 
fessional manner  of  tossing  the  omelet,  shaking  the  pan, 
etc.,  that  bewilders  the  unexperienced  and  renders  the 
modus  operandi  apparently  very  difficult.  We  give  here 
a  recipe  for  omelet  that  has  never  been  known  to  fail, 
and  is  simple  enough  for  any  one  to  follow.  For  those 
who  care  for  a  more  elaborate  mode  of  work  there  are 
many  books  that  will  explain  the  difficulties  to  them,  but 
this  recipe  is  given  for  those  not  yet  skilled  in  work  of 
this  kind. 

For  a  family  of  five,  allow  five  eggs.  Beat  the  whites 
to  a  stiff  froth  on  a  large  plate  ;  place  the  yolks  in  a 
good-sized  earthenware  cake  bowl,  and  beat  them  well, 
adding  a  spoonful  of  the  beaten  whites  to  make  them 
more  frothy.  Turn  the  whites  into  the  bowl  containing 
the  yolks,  adding  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  and  a  very 
little  pepper,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Place  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  or  an  omelet-pan  if 
there  is  one,  and  when  quite  hot,  so  that  the  butter  is 
commencing  to  brown,  turn  in  the  eggs.  Do  not  keep 
them  in  this  heat  more  than  a  minute  ;  then  set  the 
pan  on  the  top  grate  in  a  hot  oven  to  finish  the  cooking. 
If  the  oven  is  at  the  right  heat,  the  omelet  should  be 
done  in  five  minutes.  Take  the  pan  out,  slip  a  knife 
under  the  omelet  to  loosen  it  on  all  sides,  fold 


328  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

one    side   upon    the    other,    and   send   at   once    to   the 
table. 

This  may  be  termed  a  baked  omelet  by  professional 
cooks,  but  it  is  one  that  is  certainly  worthy  of  note,  for 
lighter  and  better  omelets  cannot  be  found  anywhere  than 
in  those  households  in  which  these  directions  have  been 
the  rule  for  years  in  the  preparation  of  this  simple  and 
delightful  article  of  food. 

OMELET   SOUFFLE. 

Six  eggs. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  pulverized  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  orange  water,  vanilla  or  lemon. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  hard  froth.  Put  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  the  sugar  and  flavor- 
ing, and  beat  them  well.  Add  the  whites,  mix  quickly, 
and  pile  the  mass  as  high  as  possible  on  a  well  buttered 
baking-dish.  Smooth  the  top  of  the  mound,  make  a  slit 
down  the  center  and  at  the  sides,  and  bake  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a  moderate  oven.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the 
souffle*  should  be  of  a  fine  yellow  shade.  Sprinkle  with 
powdered  sugar  and  serve  at  once. 

FRIED    OMELET. 

This  is  a  convenient  way  to  make  an  omelet  where  the 
family  come  irregularly  to  breakfast.  The  mixture  may 
stand  for  some  time  if  beaten  again  thoroughly  before 
frying. 

Six  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  pepper. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 


OMELETS.  329 

Beat  the  eggs  until  light  and  foamy,  and  add  the  other 
ingredients.  Fry  a  spoonful  at  a  time  in  a  hot  frying- 
pan  or  on  a  pancake  griddle,  having  the  pan  or  griddle 
well  buttered.  When  done,  roll  each  omelet  quickly  like 
a  French  pancake,  and  serve. 

OTHER    OMELETS. 

A  great  many  dishes  -can  be  made  from  the  simple, 
plain  omelet,  not  only  for  breakfast  uses  but  also  for 
desserts  at  dinner.  Most  of  the  additions  are  made  to 
the  omelet  just  before  it  is  folded  and  while  the  top  is 
moist  and  readily  receives  the  different  ingredients 

OYSTER    OMELET. 

Heat  eighteen  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  skim  them 
carefully,  and  stir  in-  with  them  a  table-spoonful  of  butter 
rubbed  to  a  cream  with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  boil  up  once,  and  spread  the  oysters 
on  the  omelet  before  folding. 

TOMATO   OMELET. 

Boil  two  medium-sized  tomatoes  a  few  minutes,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  them  on  the  omelet  just 
before  it  is  folded.  When  served  the  tomato  should  be 
entirely  enveloped. 

GREEN    PEA    OMELET. 

This  is  managed  the  same  as  tomato  omelet,  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  cooked  green  peas  being  placed  in  the 
center.  Serve  the  omelet  with  a  row  of  peas  around  it. 

OMELET   WITH    VEGETABLES. 

Many  vegetables  beside  the  two  above  mentioned  are 


33O  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

used  in  making  omelets.  Asparagus  and  cauliflower  are 
often  used.  The  vegetable  should  first  be  cooked  until 
perfectly  well  done  and  laid  rather  dry  in  the  omelet  be- 
fore folding.  .  Arrange  a  border  of  the  vegetable  used 
around  the  omelet  for  serving. 

HAM    OMELET. 

Scatter  over  the  center  of  the  omelet  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  finely  chopped  ham. 

Cheese,  parsley  and  chicken  are  used  in  the  same  way. 

SWEET   OMELET    (FOR    DESSERT). 

Add  a  little  sugar  to  the  eggs,  using  no  pepper  and  but 
half  the  quantity  of  salt.  Make  the  plain  omelet,  and 
when  ready  to  fold,  put  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
any  kind  of  preserves,  marmalade  or  jelly  upon  the  top. 
After  the  omelet  is  laid  on  the  serving-dish,  sprinkle  sugar 
over  it. 

ORANGE   OMELET. 

One  orange  (rind). 

Three  eggs. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  orange  juice. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

Grate  the  rind  from  the  orange.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs  thoroughly,  and  add  the  sugar,  rind  and  juice. 
.Beat  the  whites  stiff,  stir  them  into  the  yolks,  and  when 
both  are  well  mixed,  cook  like  a  plain  omelet.  Fold  the 
omelet,  lay  it  on  the  serving-dish,  sprinkle  it  thickly  with 
powdered  sugar  and  score  it  in  diagonal  lines  with  a  clean 
red-hot  poker.  The  burnt  sugar  gives  the  omelet  a  deli- 
cious flavor. 

To  vary  the  recipe  cut  the  orange  into  sections,  remove 
the  seeds  and  tough  inner  skin  cut  each  section  into 


OMELETS.  331 

pieces,  and  mix  these  with  the  yolks  before  cooking;  or 
cut  the  orange  into  small  pieces,  spread  part  of  it  over 
the  omelet  before  folding,  and  sprinkle  the  remainder 
over  the  sugared  top.  By  any  of  these  methods  a  con- 
venient dessert  for  an  emergency  may  be  prepared  in  ten 
minutes. 

OMELET   WITH    RUM. 

This  is  a  most  delicious  omelet.  Add  a  little  sugar  to 
the  eggs  instead  of  the  pepper,  and  use  a  little  less  salt 
than  in  the  plain  omelet.  When  the  omelet  is  ready 
to  serve,  sprinkle  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar  over  the  top, 
and  pour  over  it  four  or  five  table-spoonfuls  of  rum.  Set 
fire  to  the  rum  and  send  blazing  to  table. 


BREAD. 

"  The  very  staff  of  life  ! 
The  comfort  of  the  husband,  the  pride  of  the  wife." 

THE  making  of  bread  is  at  once  the  easiest  and  the 
most  difficult  branch  of  culinary  science.  It  should  be 
regarded  as  one  of  the  highest  accomplishments,  and  if  a 
tenth  of  the  interest,  time  and  thought  which  are  devoted 
to  cake,  pastry  and  fancy  cooking  were  spent  upon  this 
most  important  article  of  food,  the  presence  of  good 
bread  upon  our  tables  would  be  invariably  secured.  It  is 
deplorable  indeed  that  in  thousands  of  otherwise  com- 
fortable homes  good  bread  is  an  unknown  thing.  Good 
bread  makes  the  plainest  meal  acceptable  and  the 
coarsest  fare  appetizing,  while  the  most  luxurious  table 
is  sadly  wanting  without  it.  Opinions  as  to  what  con- 
stitutes good  bread  differ  as  much  as  tastes  and  opin- 
ions regarding  anything  else  ;  but  all  will  agree  that  good 
bread  is  light,  sweet,  free  from  any  perceptible  taste  of 
the  yeast  and  as  white  as  the  grade  of  flour  will  admit. 
Most  important  among  the  things  needful  to  produce 
good  bread  is  good 

FLOUR. 

Housekeepers  seldom  select  flour  by  examination. 
They  usually  take  some  tried  brand,  or  select  on  the 

332 


BREAD.  333 

recommendation  of  their  grocer ;  therefore,  a  little  ex- 
planation regarding  the  different  brands  may  be  help- 
ful. 

The  fancy  names  given  to  flour  amount  to  very  little, 
as  the  same  flour  is  sold  by  several  dealers  under  various 
brands.  The  different  "  processes  "  refer  to  the  several 
methods  used  in  converting  wheat  into  flour,  the  grinding 
being  performed  in  several  ways,  each  one  claiming  supe- 
riority. 

One  process  is  by  grinding  between  two  horizontal 
stones,  the  upper  one  revolving  and  grinding  the  grain 
against  the  lower  one,  which  is  stationary.  The  ground 
grain  is  then  sifted  through  bolting-cloth,  producing  fine 
wheat  flour,  coarse  wheat  meal  and  bran.  This  is  the 
St.  Louis  or  "  old  process  "  flour  and  is  also  sold  as 
pastry  flour.  The  grinding  with  millstones  heats  the 
flour,  and  as  it  is  often  placed  on  the  market  without 
having  been  properly  cooled  and  dried,  it  spoils  very 
rapidly. 

Another  method  is  the  Minnesota  or  "  patent  process." 
The  Washburn,  Pillsbury  and  other  mills  located  in 
Minneapolis  are  the  largest  flouring  mills  in  the  world. 
By  this  process  the  grain  is  crushed,  not  ground,  by 
being  passed  through  corrugated  rollers,  and  is  then 
sifted  through  bolting-cloth.  Flour  prepared  in  this  way 
is  considered  one  of  the  best  grades. 

The  third  process  is  the  "  new  patent " — or  Haxall. 
By  this  method  the  outer  husk  of  the  wheat  is  removed, 
after  which  the  cleaned  grain  is  cut  by  a  system  of 
knives,  which  reduces  it  to  a  fine  powder  without  the 
injurious  effect  of  heating.  This  flour  swells  more  than 
that  made  by  the  "old  process," as  it  contains  more  of 


334  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  gluten  of  the  wheat,  so  that  the  same  measure  will 
*make  a  greater  quantity  of  bread  than  the  St.  Louis 
flour.  It  is,  therefore,  cheaper  in  the  end,  although  it 
costs  more  per  barrel ;  and  it  makes  the  whitest  bread. 
There  have  been  many  variations  of  the  Haxall  process, 
but  all  are  included  under  the  term  "  new  process 
flour." 

Yet  another  method  of  converting  wheat  into  flour  has 
been  recently  introduced  in  New  York  and  is  highly 
recommended  by  physicians  and  scientists.  The  outer 
husk  of  the  wheat  (of  which  only  the  choicest  kinds  are 
used)  is  removed,  and  the  grains  are  pulverized  by  a 
compressed  cold-air  blast,  which  dashes  them  into  atoms 
with  tremendous  force.  This  is  called  "  whole  wheat " 
flour,  the  name  indicating  that  the  whole  of  the  nutritive 
part  of  the  wheat  is  retained.  It  is  not  sifted  like  other 
flour,  but  is  pulverized  into  all  the  varieties  of  crushed 
wheat  and  coarse  and  fine  granulated  ;  and  each  variety, 
even  the  finest  flour,  contains  all  that  is  valuable  as  food. 
Bread  made  with  this  flour  has  been  found  very  sweet, 
light  and  spongy,  with  none  of  the  objectionable  features 
of  Graham  bread.  The  "  Arlington,"  the  "  Franklin  " 
and  some  other  brands  of  whole-wheat  flour  are  highly 
recommended  by  those  familiar  with  them. 

Good  flour  should  not  be  pure  white  in  color,  but  of  a 
creamy,  yellowish  shade.  If  flour  feels  damp,  clammy 
and  sticky  and  gradually  forms  into  lumps  that  are  hard 
to  sift  out,  it  is  not  of  the  best  quality.  Flour  of  high 
grade  holds  together  in  a  mass  when  squeezed  in  the 
hand  and  retains  the  impression  of  the  fingers  and  even 
of  the  indentations  of  the  skin  much  longer  than  poor 
flour.  Haxall  flour  has  a  fine  consistency  and  runs 


BREAD.  335 

easily  through  the  sieve  or  fingers  like  velvety  meal, 
while  good  St.  Louis  flour  feels  oily  and  soft.  All  house- 
keepers agree  that  flour  is  not  improved  by  long  standing 
and  that  it  should  be  bought  in  quantities  corresponding 
to  the  number  of  persons  in  the  household,  that  it  may 
be  used  within  a  reasonable  length  of  time.  For  a  small 
family  it  is  wisest  to  buy  it  in  twenty-five  pound  sacks,  or 
at  most  by  the  quarter-barrel.  Flour  should  be  kept  in  a 
dry,  cool  place,  should  be  well  covered  and  should  never 
be  used  without  sifting. 

The  next  essential  element  in  bread-making  is  the 

YEAST. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  yeast  in  general  use  ;  the  dry, 
the  compressed,  and  the  liquid,  each  of  which  has  its 
merits.  Dry  yeast  cakes,  such  as  the  "  Twin,  Brothers','' 
"  National  "  and  many  others,  are  good,  if  fresh,  and 
being  always  obtainable  and  inexpensive,  they  are 
generally  liked  by  those  who  use  them.  The  compressed 
cakes,  such  as  the  "Vienna,"  are  excellent  when 
perfectly  fresh,  and  are  especially  to  be  commended 
when  bread  is  made  in  large  quantities  ;  but  for  a  small 
family,  when  only  a  quarter  of  a  cake  is  used,  perhaps 
twice  a  week,  or  for  those  living  at  a  distance  from  the 
grocer's,  they  are  inconvenient,  expensive  and  wasteful. 
Yeast  cakes  have  almost  entirely  taken  the  place  of 
bakers'  yeast.  One  two-cent  cake  of  compressed  yeast 
dissolved  in  a  cupful  of  water  is  equal  to  a  cupful  of 
home-made  yeast. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  home-made  yeast,  all  of 
which  require  some  form  of  yeast  for  starting.  Who 
made  the  first  yeast,  and  how  can  a  young  housekeeper 


336  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

start  her  own  when  at  a  distance  from  stores  or  neigh- 
bors so  that  she  can  neither  buy  nor  borrow,  are  ques- 
tions often  asked.  The  answer  to  the  latter  question  is, 
simply  make  a  thin  batter  of  flour  and  water,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  warm  place  until  it  ferments  and  is  full  of  bub- 
bles. A  pint  of  this  "ferment"  is  equal  to  a  cupful  of 
old  yeast  in  starting  the  new.  Yeast  made  with  potatoes 
is  always  satisfactory,  as  the  potato  starch  is  particularly 
well  adapted  to  yeast  fermentation.  Potato  yeast  rises 
rapidly,  and  it  keeps  longer  without  souring  than  any 
other  variety;  and  bread  made  with  it  is  sweet  and  light, 
and  does  not  dry  quickly.  Porcelain  or  granite  kettles 
are  best  for  boiling  the  hops  and  potatoes,  and  earthen 
bowls  and  wooden  spoons  for  mixing  them,  since  iron 
and  tin  darken  the  yeast.  The  yeast  for  starting  should 
be  light  in  color,  foaming  or  full  of  beads,  effervescing 
easily  when  shaken  and  emitting  an  odor  like  weak  am- 
monia; it  is  poor  when  it  has  an  acid  odor  and  looks 
watery  or  has  a  thin  film  over  the  top.  This  yeast  should 
be  put  away  in  glass  jars  as  soon  as  made  and  kept  in  a 
cool  place,  for  intense  heat  or  freezing  will  "  kill "  it. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  reserve  a  portion  of  the  yeast  for  the 
next  rising  in  a  small  jar  by  itself,  as  opening  the  jar 
often  causes  the  yeast  to  lose  its  strength. 

The  next  subject  to  consider  in  the  making  of  bread  is 

THE   SPONGE. 

This  is  made  with  lukewarm  water  or  milk,  yeast  and 
flour.  The  milk  used  should  be  scalded  and  cooled,  the 
scalding  keeping  the  sponge  from  souring.  The  sponge 
is  made  either  in  the  evening  or  in  the  afternoon,  that 
"  set  "  late  being  light  by  morning  for  the  kneading  of  the 


BREAD.  337 

dough,  while  that  started  in  the  afternoon  becomes  light 
and  spongy  by  nine  o'clock  and  can  then  be  kneaded  and 
left  to  rise  over  night.  The  question  whether  dough 
should  be  kneaded  at  night  or  in  the  morning  is  one 
which  every  housekeeper  can  best  decide  for  herself. 
Setting  the  sponge  in  the  afternoon  has  many  advan- 
tages. The  kneading  should  not  be  hurried  or  slighted 
and  should  continue  at  least  twenty  minutes;  when  it  has 
to  be  done  in  the  morning,  however,  when  most  house- 
holds are  unusually  busy,  there  is  less  likelihood  of  its 
being  properly  performed.  Another  decided  advantage 
of  setting  the  sponge  in  the  afternoon  is  that  it  may  be 
baked  and  removed  from  the  oven  by  ten  o'clock  the 
next  day,  thus  leaving  the  oven  free  for  roasting  or  other 
work  attendant  upon  the  noonday  dinner,  which  so  many 
housewives  the  country  over  find  most  convenient. 

The  sponge  should  be  stirred  so  thick  with  flour  that  a 
spoonful  of  it  will  not  run  from  the  spoon  but  will  drop 
from  it  in  a  rather  wet  mess.  If  the  sponge  will  not  rise 
and  seems  watery  on  the  top,  sufficient  flour  has  not  been 
stirred  into  it.  The  sponge  should  not  be  allowed  to 
stand  in  a  draught  of  air,  but  a  warm,  even  temperature 
should,  if  possible,  be  maintained.  Stir  the  sponge  in  a 
clean  bright  pail  that  is  used  for  no  other  purpose,  or  in 
an  earthenware  pitcher.  If  there  is  a  high  shelf  in  the 
kitchen  remote  from  the  door,  set  the  pail  upon  it.  One 
practical  housewife  used  to  hang  her  sponge  pail  on  a 
projecting  hook  of  the  kind  generally  used  to  hang  bird 
cages  upon.  The  hook  was  nailed  to  a  boarding  above 
the  water  tank,  upon  which  the  water  pipes  that  supplied 
the  upper  floor  were  fastened,  and  it  was  out  of  the 
draught  and  in  a  steady  temperature.  The  sponge  was 


338  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

not  looked  at  after  being  set,  until  it  was  taken  down  for 
use ;  and  it  was  always  satisfactory. 
The  next  step  is 

THE    KNEADING. 

Kneading  is  the  pressing  or  working  of  the  dough  in 
such  a  manner  that  'the  water  and  flour  may  be  thor- 
oughly mixed  and  the  yeast,  so  evenly  distributed  that  the 
fermentation  is  equal  throughout  the  entire  mass.  The 
kneading  is  often  done  in  a  mixing-bowl  or  bread-pan  by 
drawing  the  dough  ^over  from  the  sides  and  pressing  it 
down  in  the  center,  but  it  may  be  more  effectually  and 
more  easily  accomplished  on  a  bread-board.  Place  some 
of  the  flour  in  the  bread-pan,  work  into  it  whatever  butter  is 
to  be  used,  and  turn  in  the  sponge,  rinsing  out  the  pail  or 
vessel  containing  it  so  that  there  may  be  no  waste.  Mix 
thoroughly,  being  careful  not  to  make  the  dough  too 
stiff;  then  flour  the  board,  turn  the  dough  out  upon  it, 
and  rub  the  pan  clean  with  some  of  the  dry  flour,  adding 
what  may  be  thus  obtained  to  the  dough  on  the  board. 
Work  the  whole  into  a  ball,  having  the  hands  well  floured. 
Draw  the  dough  farthest  from  you  up  and  over  taward 
the  center,  letting  the  ball  of  the  hand  meet  the 
dough ;  then  press  down  firmly,  giving  the  dough  some- 
what of  a  rolling  motion,  that  it  may  not  stick  to  the 
board.  Dust  the  board  and  the  hands  frequently  but 
lightly  with  flour.  Use  both  hands  in  the  same  manner. 
When  enough  smooth  texture  has  been  formed  through 
the  dough  it  can  be  worked  for  some  time  without  a  dust- 
ing of  flour.  The  kneading  should  be  continued  for  not 
less  than  twenty  minutes,  as  brisk  and  long  working  of 
the  dough  makes  the  pores  fine  and  regular,  while  gaping 


BREAD.  339 

holes  in  bread  are  the  result  of  too  little  kneading. 
When  the  kneading  is  done,  work  the  dough  into  a  flat, 
round  mass,  and  place  it  in  the  center  of  the  bread-pan  ; 
^cover  the  pan  with  a  cloth  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place, 
taking  care  it  is  not  in  a  draught  of  air  and  that  the  tem- 
perature is  even.  There  is  much  force  in  the  lament, 
"  My  bread  took  cold  last  night,"  for  cold  arrests  fermen- 
tation. If  kneaded  at  night,  the  bread  will  be  ready  for 
finishing  early  in  the  morning — as  early  as  six  o'clock;  if 
kneaded  in  the  day,  it  should  be  allowed  five  or  six  hours 
to  dse  to  the  desired  lightness,  after  which  it  is  ready  for 

THE    MOULDING. 

When  the  bread  has  risen  to  three  times  its  original 
size,  knead  it  down  in  the  pan,  cut  it  into  equal  parts, 
place  one  of  these  at  a  time  upon  the  board,  and  mould  it 
into  a  perfectly  smooth,  oblong  loaf.  During  this  sec- 
ond working  only  a  dusting  of  flour  will  be  required  to 
keep  the  dough  from  sticking  to  the  board,  if  the  first 
kneading  was  sufficiently  thorough.  Place  each  loaf  in  a 
separate  pan,  which  should  be  eight  inches  long,  four 
inches  wide  and  four  inches  deep.  The  pans  must  be 
well  greased.  The  loaves  should  reach  only  half  way  to 
the  top  of  the  pans,  which  should  stand  in  a  warm  place 
until  the  dough  reaches  the  top,  when  it  is  ready  for 

THE    BAKING. 

This  is  fully  as  important  as  the  other  steps  in  making 
bread.  The  oven  should  not  be  too  hot,  and  a  little  ex- 
perience in  baking  will  soon  teach  the  novice  when  the 
temperature  is  right.  For  the  unskilled  there  are  many 
ways  of  testing  the  heat.  The  baker's  method  is  to 


34O  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

throw  a  little  flour  on  the  floor  of  the  oven,  and  if  it 
browns  quickly  without  taking  fire,  the  heat  is  sufficient ; 
or  if  the  hand  can  be  held  in  the  oven  while  one  can 
count  twenty,  the  heat  is  strong  enough.  If  a  thermome-, 
ter  is  used,  it  should  indicate  360°.  The  bread  should 
bake  from  forty-five  to  sixty  minutes.  The  dough  should 
rise  in  a  round  mound  above  the  top  of  the  pan  and 
should  begin  to  lightly  brown  after  fifteen  minutes. 
Bake  according  to  the  clock  always,  for  the  baking  of 
bread  is  something  that  will  not  take, care  of  itself.  It  is 
an  erroneous  idea  that  anything  must  not  be  looked  at 
while  baking  in  the  oven.  Look  at  the  bread  frequently, 
and  turn  it  whenever  it  needs  it.  When  it  is  well  baked, 
it  will  emit  a  hollow,  empty  sound  when  tapped  with  the 
fingers.  Remove  the  loaves  imrriediately  from  the  pans 
when  done.  If  left  in  them  or  set  on  a  pine  table,  the 
bread  sweats  or  absorbs  the  odor  of  the  wood.  If  crisp 
crust  is  preferred,  do  not  cover  the  loaves,  but  place 
them  where  the  air  will  circulate  about  them.  A  bread 
or  cake  cooler  made  of  fine  wire  is  a  useful  article  upon 
which  to  place  newly  baked  bread.  If  a  soft,  tender, 
wafer-like  consistency  is  liked  in  the  crust,  wrap  the 
loaves  while  still  hot  in  several  thicknesses  of  cloth,  and 
when  cold,  place  them  in  a  stone  jar  or  a  tin  box.  Re- 
move the  cloth,  as  it  absorbs  moisture  and  gives  the 
bread  an  unpleasant  odor  and  taste.  Keep  the  jar  well 
covered ;  and  scald  it  every  baking-day,  airing  it  thor- 
oughly to  receive  the  fresh  bread.  - 

HOP   YEAST. 

One  pint  of  sliced  raw  potatoes. 
One-half  pint  of  hops, 


BREAD.  341 

One  quart  of  water. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  ginger. 

One  yeast  cake,  or 

One  cupful  of  yeast. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 

Boil  the  potatoes  in  a  pint  of  the  water,  and  steep  the 
hops  for  twenty  minutes  in  the  other  pint,  using  a  granite- 
ware  or  porcelain-lined  sauce-pan  for  the  purpose.  When 
the  potatoes  are  soft,  mash  them  in  the  water  in  which 
they  were  boiled,  and  when  the  hops  are  steeped,  strain 
the  water  from  them  into  the  potato  water.  Add  the 
salt,  sugar  and  ginger,  and  mix  all  well  together.  When 
cool,  add  the  dissolved  yeast-cake  or  the  liquid  yeast, 
cover  the  bowl,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  until  the 
yeast  is  light  and  covered  with  foam.  Skim  and  stir  sev- 
eral times.  Put  the  yeast  in  glass  jars  or  a  stone  jug, 
sealing  it  securely.  Keep  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  shake  it 
well  before  using.  The  above  measurements  will  not 
make  a  large  quantity. 

LIGHTNING    YEAST. 

One  quart  of  boiled  potatoes. 
One  quart  of  hot  water. 
One  quart  of  cold  water. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 
One-quarter  tea-cupful  of  salt. 
Two  compressed  yeast  cakes,  or 
One  pint  of  yeast. 

Mash  the  potatoes  fine,  and  pour  the  hot  water  upon 
them.  Add  the  sugar  and  salt,  and  stir  well  until  the 
mixture  is  smooth  and  creamy.  Then  pour  in  the  cold 
water,  and  when  the  whole  is  lukewarm,  add  the  dis- 


342  THE  PATTER  A'  COOK-BOOK. 

solved  yeast-cakes  or  the  yeast.  Set  the  yeast  in  a  warm 
place,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe,  skim  well,  and 
set  it  away  in  a  stone  jar.  Shake  before  using. 

RAW    POTATO    YEAST. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  flour. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  medium-sized  potatoes. 

One  to  two  quarts  of  boiling  water. 
(  One  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  or 
I  One  cupful  of  liquid  yeast. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  and  cover  them  with  cold  water. 
Mix  the  flour,  sugar  and  salt  in  a  large  bowl ;  then  grate 
the  potatoes  as  quickly  as  possible,  not  stopping  to  grate 
every  scrap,  and  mix  them  at  once  with  the  flour,  using  a 
wooden  or  silver  spoon  that  the  mixture  may  not  be  dark- 
ened. Have  a  good  supply  of  boiling  water  in  the  tea- 
kettle, and  pour  about  a  pint  of  it  over  the  grater,  rinsing 
off  the  potato  into  the  bowl.  Mix  the  water  thoroughly 
with  the  potato  and  flour,  then  add  slowly  enough  more 
boiling  water  to  make  the  liquid  the  consistency  of  thin 
starch.  The  exact  quantity  of  water  cannot  be  given, 
as  it  depends  upon  the  quality  of  flour  and  potatoes. 
If  it  does  not  thicken,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  double 
boiler  or  a  granite  pan,  and  bring  it  to  the  boiling  point, 
stirring  well  to  keep  it  from  sticking ;  then  strain 
through  a  squash  strainer,  and  let  it  cool.  When  luke- 
warm, add  the  yeast,  cover,  and  keep  in  a  warm  place 
until  light  and  well  covered  with  white  foam.  After  the 
yeast  begins  to  rise,  beat  it  well  several  times,  as  this 
strengthens  it  greatly.  At  night  or  when  it  is  well  risen, 


DREAD.  343 

set  it  away  in  a  cool  place,  pouring  it  into  wide-mouthed 
earthen  jars  or  in  glass  jars.  Reserve  a  cupful  or  more 
in  a  jar  by  itself,  and  do  not  open  it  until  ready  for  the 
next  yeast  making.  Shake  well  before  using.  Do  not 
take  the  jar  into  the  hot  kitchen  when  yeast  is  used  for 
a  baking,  but  take  the  measuring  cup  to  the  jar.  Scald 
the  jar  when  empty,  and  cover  it  tightly. 

This  is  a  quick  and  very  easy  way  of  making  yeast,  fif- 
teen minutes  being  ample  for  the  first  of  the  work.  The 
yeast,  which  will  keep  two  weeks  and  makes  delicious 
bread,  is  whiter  and  more  inviting-looking  than  that  made 
with  hops. 

LIGHTNING    YEAST    BREAD.       (NO    SPONGE.) 

This  is  one  of  the  easiest  methods  of  bread-making  and 
produces  excellent  bread.  The  work  is  all  done  the 
same  day,  as  it  is  not  necessary  to  start  the  sponge  over 
night.  For  two  loaves  weighing  a  pound  apiece,  allow 
a  pint  of  the  lightning  yeast.  Place  a  quart  of  flour  in 
the  bread-pan,  sprinkle  over  it  a  little  salt,  make  a  well  in 
the  center  of  the  flour,  and  turn  in  the  yeast.  Mix  until 
a  ball  is  formed,  adding  more  flour  if  needed  ;  then  turn 
the  dough  out  upon  the  bread-board  and  knead  it  twenty 
minutes.  Return  it  to  the  pan,  and  when  quite  light  and 
fully  three  times  its  original  size,  mould  it  into  two 
loaves,  filling  the  tins  but  half  full  of  dough.  When  the 
bread  has  doubled  in  size,  bake  it  an  hour  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  This  is  a  small  quantity,  but  it  will  be  quite 
enough  for  a  family  of  five  when  bread  is  baked  twice  a 
week. 

BREAD    FROM    DRY   YEAST. 

The  national  yeast-cake  may  always  be  relied  upon  for 


344  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

this  bread.     The  following   quantities  will   make    three 
loaves  : 

One  good-sized  raw  potato. 

One  pint  of  boiling  water. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  lard. 

One-half  a  dry  yeast-cake. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Flour. 

Boil  the  potato  in  a  granite-ware  sauce  pan,  drain  off 
the  water,  mash  the  potato  very  smooth,  and  turn  over  it 
the  boiling  water.  Stir  until  the  liquid  is  like  cream,  and 
set  it  aside  in  a  bowl.  At  the  same  time  place  the  yeast- 
cake  to  soak  in  half  a  cupful  of  lukewarm  water.  Do  this 
work  at  three  o'clock  P.  M.  At  four,  place  the  two  ingre- 
dients together  in  a  tin-pail  or  earthen  pitcher,  and  stir  in 
enough  flour  to  make  a  very  thick  batter.  The  batter 
should  be  too  thick  to  run  from  the  spoon — and  should 
be  stirred  and  beaten  until  perfectly  smooth  and  full  of 
bubbles.  Set  this  to  rise  in  an  even  temperature  of  at 
least  75°,  and  it  will  be  light  and  spongy  by  nine  o'clock. 
Put  two  quarts  of  flour  in  the  bread-pan,  rub  the  lard  into 
the  flour,  make  a  well  in  the  center,  and  turn  into  it  the 
sponge  from  the  pail.  Knead  until  the  dough  forms  a 
round  ball,  adding  more  flour  as  needed.  Turn  it  out 
upon  the  bread-board  as  soon  as  it  has  been  kneaded  so 
that  it  will  not  stick  to  the  board,  and  knead  at  least 
twenty  minutes,  adding  only  enough  flour  to  keep  the 
dough  from  sticking  during  the  work.  Return  the  dough 
to  the  pan,  cover  closely  with  a  thick  cloth,  and  leave  it 
in  a  warm  place.  In  the  morning  mould  the  dough  down, 
divide  it  into  three  parts,  mould  each  part  until  smooth, 


BREAD.  345 

place  it  in  a  separate  pan  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place. 
The  loaves  should  rise  to  double  their  size  in  an  hour  and 
a-half ;  then  place  them  in  the  oven,  and  bake  an 
hour.  Bread  made  in  this  way  is  out  of  the  oven  by  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning  and  is  very  delicious.  Milk  may 
be  used  in  place  of  water  to  set  the  sponge,  but  it 
should  first  be  scalded  to  prevent  it  souring  in  the 
bread. 

COMPRESSED    YEAST    BREAD. 

To  make  four  large  loaves,  use 

One  quart  of  boiling  water. 
Three  large  potatoes. 
About  seven  pints  of  flour. 
One-third  of  a  cake  of  yeast. 
One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

Cook  potatoes  for  thirty  minutes,  and  drain  well ; 
mash  them,  pour  the  boiling  water  over  them  and  set 
away  to  cool.  When  lukewarm,  add  the  dissolved  yeast- 
cake  and  three  quarts  of  the  flour,  beating  the  flour  in 
with  a  spoon.  Cover  the  bowl  with  a  cloth  and  then 
with  a  board,  and  let  its  contents  rise  over  night.  In  the 
morning  add  the  salt  and  half  the  remaining  flour,  the 
rest  of  the  flour  being  used  for  kneading  the  bread  on 
the  board.  Turn  the  dough  out  upon  the  board,  and 
knead  it  for  twenty  minutes ;  then  return  it  to  the  bowl, 
cover,  and  let  it  rise  to  double  its  original  size.  Shape  it 
into  loaves,  moulding  them  smooth ;  and  when  they  have 
risen  to  double  their  original  size,  bake  for  an  hour. 
The  addition  of  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  one  of 
lard  or  butter  improves  the  bread  for  some  tastes,  and,  if 


346  THE  PA  TTERN  COOA'-JIOOX. 

used,  should  be  worked  in  with  the  salt  when  the  bread  is 
kneaded. 

ENTIRE    WHEAT    BREAD. 

Entire  wheat  is  very  different  from  Graham.  Graham 
is  coarsely  ground  wheat  meal,  while  entire  wheat  is 
made  from  the  whole  wheat,  the  husk  being  discarded. 
The  latter  makes  a  brown  loaf  or  roll,  but  a  delicious  one, 
smooth  and  fine.  For  two  large  loaves  of  bread,  use 

Two  quarts  of  flour. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  warm  water. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  salt. 
(  One-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  or 
I  One-half  cupful  of  home-made  yeast. 

Measure  the  flour  before  sifting ;  then  sift  it  into  a 
bowl,  setting  aside  one  cupful  to  be  used  in  kneading  the 
bread  later.  Add  the  sugar  and  salt  to  the  flour,  dissolve 
the  yeast  (if  the  compressed  is  used)  in  a  little  of  the 
water,  and  pour  it  and  the  rest  of  the  water  into  the  bowl ; 
lastly  add  the  butter,  slightly  softened.  Beat  the  dough 
vigorously  with  a  spoon,  and  when  smooth  and  light, 
sprinkle  the  board  with  some  of  the  flour  reserved,  turn 
out  the  dough  upon  it,  and  knead  it  for  twenty  minutes. 
Return  the  dough  to  the  board,  and  set  it  to  rise  over 
night.  This  will  take  about  six  or  eight  hours,  if  the 
bread  is  started  in  the  morning.  When  the  dough  is 
light,  turn  it  out  upon  the  board,  divide  it  into  two  loaves, 
mould  them  smooth,  place  them  in  well  greased  pans, 
and  set  them  in  a  warm  place.  When  the  loaves  have 
doubled  in  size,  bake  for  an  hour. 


BREAD.  347 


RYE    BREAD. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  the  preceding,  except  that 
rye  flour  is  used  instead  of  the  entire  wheat. 

GRAHAM    BREAD. 

The  quantities  given  below  will  make  two  medium-sized 
loaves. 

One  pint  of  water. 

Wheat  flour. 
(  One  yeast-cake,  or 
I  One  cupful  of  yeast. 

About  nine  at  night  dissolve  the  yeast-cake  in  the 
water,  which  should  be  lukewarm  ;  and  add  enough  wheat 
flour  to  thicken  it  to  a  stiff  batter.  Stir  and  beat  the 
batter  thoroughly  for  five  minutes,  leaving  it  full  of 
bubbles;  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  In  the 
morning  add 

Two  cupfuls  of  molasses. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 
Graham  flour. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  little  cold  water,  slightly  warm 
the  molasses,  and  add  to  it  the  soda.  Stir  the  salt  into 
the  sponge,  and  beat  well  with  a  strong  spoon  ;  then  put 
in  the  molasses  and  soda,  and  when  -these  have  been 
thoroughly  beaten  in  with  the  sponge,  add  Graham  flour 
until  a  very  thick  mixture  is  formed.  This  is  not  kneaded 
like  other  kinds  of  yeast  bread,  but  should  be  so  thick 
with  graham  as  to  be  difficult  to  stir.  Beat  the  batter 
well  for  three  or  four  minutes,  turn  it  into  two  well 


348  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

greased  tins,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  ;  when  it  has 
risen  to  be  half  again  its  original  size,  bake  an  hour  in  a 
rather  slow  oven.  This  bread  will  not  rise  so  rapidly  as 
that  made  of  wheat  flour,  as  it  has  more  "  body  "  to  carry. 
It  is  mixed  so  soft  that  the  dough  takes  the  form  of  the 
pans  in  which  it  is  baked.  The  success  of  graham  bread 
depends  largely  upon  thorough  beating. 

RYE-AND-INDIAN    BREAD. 

Three  cupfuls  of  rye  flour. 
Two  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  pint  of  water. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Sift  the  two  kinds  of  meal  well  together,  adding  the 
salt.  Slightly  warm  the  water,  dissolve  the  soda  in  it, 
add  the  molasses,  and  when  these  are  well  mixed,  stir  in 
the  meal,  a  little  at  a  time.  Beat  well  until  the  whole  is 
thoroughly  mixed.  Then  place  the  batter  in  a  round  tin, 
set  this  in  a  steamer,  and  steam  for  four  hours  over  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water.  If  a  crust  is  preferred,  bake  the 
bread  half  an  hour  after  the  steaming.  The  batter  must 
be  steamed  immediately  after  it  is  mixed  or  it  will  be 
heavy. 

RAISED   BROWN    BREAD. 

One  pint  of  corn  meal. 

One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or  one-half  a  cake. 

One-half  cupful  of  molasses. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt 

One  salt-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  pint  of  rye-meal. 


BREAD.  349 

Place  the  corn  meal  in  a  mixing-bowl,  and  scald  it  with 
just  enough  boiling  water  to  wet  it.  Let  it  stand  ten 
minutes  ;  then  put  in  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  soft 
batter.  When  the  batter  is  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  and 
the  molasses,  the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water, 
the  salt  and  the  rye-meal.  Beat  the  mixture  well,  and  let 
it  rise  over  night ;  or  if  made  in  the  morning,  let  it  rise 
until  it  cracks  open.  Then  stir  it  down,  put  it  in  a  but- 
tered and  floured  tin  to  rise  again,  and  sprinkle  flour  over 
the  top.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  for  two  hours.  This 
recipe  is  very  reliable. 

CORN    BREAD. 

Two  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  large  cupful  of  corn  meal. 

One-half  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 

One  and  a-half  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  first  separately, 
and  then  together.  Sift  the  flour  and  meal  well  together, 
put  in  the  powder,  and  sift  again.  Place  the  milk  in 
a  cake  bowl,  add  to  it  the  beaten  yolks,  the  salt  and 
the  sugar,  and  then  the  meal  and  flour.  Mix  all 
very  thoroughly  together,  and  when  well  beaten  stir 
in  the  beaten  whites.  Bake  half  an  hour  in  a  well 
buttered  tin.  The  above  quantities  will  make  one 
medium-sized  loaf,  and  the  bread  is  always  good.  It  is 
most  palatable  when  warm,  but  it  can  be  steamed  and 
warmed  over  after  it  is  cold,  so  that  it  will  be  almost  as 
good  as  at  first. 


35O  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

BREAKFAST    BREAD. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Three  eggs. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Five  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One-half  cupful  of  Indian  meal. 

Five  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

This  makes  quite  a  large  quantity.  Rub  the  butter  ancl 
sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  beaten  eggs.  When  these 
are  well  mixed,  stir  in  the  milk  gradually.  Sift  the  flour, 
meal  and  baking  powder  together,  sifting  two  or  three 
times  to  make  sure  the  powder  is  well  distributed.  Stir 
the  flour  into  the  mixture,  beating  thoroughly,  and  bake 
half  an  hour  in  well  buttered  pans. 

FRENCH      ROLLS. 

These  may  be  prepared  with  little  trouble  by  making 
a  little  larger  quantity  of  the  bread  dough.  After  knead- 
ing the  dough  for  the  usual  time,  set  aside  enough  for  a 
pan  of  rolls,  usually  a  pint.  Work  into  this  portion  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  butter  or  lard,  and  let  it  stand  in 
a  moderately  cool  place  for  four  hours ;  knead  it  again, 
and  let  it  stand  three  hours  more  ;  then  form  the 
dough  into  rolls  by  rolling  it  out  very  lightly,  cutting  the 
rolls  out  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  and  folding  them  not  quite 
in  the  center,  like  turn-overs.  The  third  rising  will  take 
an  hour,  after  which  bake  the  rolls  half  an  hour  in  a 
quick  oven. 

PARKER    HOUSE    ROLLS. 

For  eighteen  good-sized  rolls  allow 


BREAD.  351 


Two  scanty  quarts  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or  lard. 

One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or 

One-half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 


Boil  the  milk,  and  set  it  to  cool.  Sift  the  flour  into  a 
mixing-bowl,  rub  the  butter,  sugar  and  salt  into  it,  make 
a  well  in  the  center,  and  turn  into  it  the  cold  milk,  and 
the  yeast-cake  dissolved  in  a  little  water.  Sprinkle  the 
top  of  the  milk  with  a  little  of  the  flour,  cover  the  bowl, 
and  leave  the  whole  on  the  kitchen  table  until  morning. 
In  the  morning  mix  the  mass  together  with  a  spoon, 
then  knead  the  dough  for  twenty  minutes,  return  it  to  the 
bowl,  cover,  and  set  it  to  rise  in  a  warm  place.  When 
it  has  become  three  times  as  large  as  at  first  (generally 
in  about  three  hours),  turn  it  out  on  the  bread-board,  and 
roll  it  to  a  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  Cut  the  dough 
with  a  round  cutter,  place  a  round  stick  the  size  of  a 
slate-pencil  on  a  roll  about  one-third  its  width  from  one 
side,  press  with  the  stick  until  the  dough  under  it  is  about 
half  as  thick  as  it  was  before,  and  fold  the  shorter  side  of 
the  roll  over;  repeat  this  process  with  each  roll.  Half  a 
tea-spoonful  of  butter  may  be  spread  between  the  folds  of 
each  roll,  if  liked.  Place  the  rolls  in  buttered  pans, 
cover  with  a  cloth,  and  let  them  rise  an  hour  and  a- 
half ;  they  should  then  be  more  than  double  their  original 
size.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven.  In  making 
the  rolls  be  careful  not  to  mix  the  flour  with  the  yeast 
and  milk  until  the  latter  have  stood  several  hours.  Care 
is  needed  in  measuring  the  ingredients,  as,  nothing  should 


352  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

be  added  afterward.  If  the  rolls  are  desired  for  the  even- 
ing meal  begin  them  at  eight  o'clock,  knead  the  dough 
at  twelve  or  one,  set  it  to  rise  until  half-past  three,  then 
make  it  into  rolls,  which  may  rise  in  a  cool  place  until 
twenty  minutes  of  six  ;  they  may  thus  be  baked  by  six 
o'clock.  •  If  wanted  for  luncheon  at  one  o'clock,  set 
them  at  seven,  doubling  the  quantity  of  yeast  to  hurry 
them  ;  knead  the  dough  at  nine,  and  shape  into  rolls  at 
eleven.  They  should  then  be  ready  to  bake  at  twenty 
minutes  of  one. 

WHITE    MOUNTAIN    ROLLS. 

N     Two  quarts  of  flour. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or  one-half  a  cake. 

Sift  the  flour  into  a  bowl,  and  add  to  it  the  salt  and 
sugar.  Boil  the  milk,  and  while  it  is  still  hot,  put  in  the 
butter  to  melt.  When  the  milk  is  cooled  to  blood  heat, 
add  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  yeast,  and  stir 
the  mixture  into  the  flour,  beating  vigorously  with  a 
spoon.  Knead  well  for  twenty  minutes,  and  set  the 
dough  to  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  take  pieces  of 
dough' the  size  of  an  egg,  shape  them  into  long  rolls,  and 
place  them  side  by  side  in  a  shallow  pan  that  has  been 
well  greased  ;  when  they  have  risen  to  a  little  more  than 
double  their  original  size,  bake  for  half  an  hour.  The 
rolls  will  brown  quickly  and  should  be  covered  with 
paper  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  brown. 


READ.  353 

SWEDISH    ROLLS. 

Make  half  the  quantity  of  dough  directed  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  roll  it  very  thin,  sprinkle  lightly  with 
water  or  spread  with  butter,  and  then  sprinkle  with  sugar 
and  cinnamon,  using  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
one  of  cinnamon.  Roll  the  sheet  the  same  as  jelly-roll, 
and  cut  the  roll  into  slices  an  inch  thick.  Put  these 
slices  into  a  well  buttered  pan,  and  when  double  their 
original  size,  bake  for  twenty  minutes.  The  cinnamon 
may  be  omitted  and  the  dough  sprinkled  with  sugar  and 
a  cupful  of  dried  currants.  These  rolls  are  much  liked 
with  coffee. 

BUNS,    NO.    I. 

Two  cupfuls  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  salt-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Four  cupfuls  of  flour. 
(  One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or 
1  One-half  a  cake. 

Scald  the  milk,  and  when  cool,  put  in  the  yeast  and 
salt.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  sugar  to  them,  and  stir 
both  into  the  yeast  and  milk.  Lastly  stir  in  the  flour, 
beat  well,  and  set  the  sponge  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  over 
night.  In  the  morning  add  flour  to  make  a  stiff  dough, 
knead  fifteen  minutes,  and  replace  it  in  the  pan  to  rise. 
When  the  dough  is  light  add 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  currants. 

One  salt-spoonful  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 

Let  the  dough  rise  again  until  light,  shape  it  into  small, 
23 


354  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

round  cakes,  place  these  close  together,  and  when  well 
risen,  bake  them  twenty  or  thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate 
oven.  Glaze  the  buns  with  sugar  and  milk,  or  with  the 
white  of  an  egg  beaten  stiff,  with  sugar  added.  These 
buns  are  only  good  when  fresh. 

BUNS    NO.    2. 

One  pint  of  bread  dough. 

One  egg. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg. 

One-half  cupful  of  French  currants. 

One-half  nutmeg,  grated. 

Mix  the  butter  with  the  dough,  working  it  in  thor- 
oughly ;  then  add  the  sugar,  spice,  fruit  and  egg.  When 
all  is  well  mixed,  roll  out  the  dough  half  an  inch  thick, 
cut  it  into  round  cakes  with  a  biscuit-cutter,  place  these 
in  a  well  buttered  tin,  and  leave  them  in  a  warm  place  to 
rise.  When  doubled  in  size,  bake  ;  and  while  still  hot, 
brush  over  the  top  with  syrup,  to  glaze. 

EASTER    BUNS.    ("  HOT    CROSS.") 

The  dough  for  these  is  made  the  same  as  in 
Buns  No.  i,  except  that  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  is 
used  instead  of  the  quantity  given,  and  the  currants  and 
egg  are  omitted.  Roll  the  dough  half  an  inch  thick,  cut 
it  into  round  cakes,  and  lay  them  in  rows  two  inches 
apart  in  a  buttered  baking-pan.  When  they  have  risen 
to  more  than  double  their  original  size,  make  a  cross 
upon  each  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  put  them  at  once  in 
the  oven.  Bake  twenty  minutes,  having  the  oven  very 
hot ;  and  glaze  as  above  directed. 


BREAD.  355 

RUSKS. 

Two  cupfuls  of  milk. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  yeast. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour. 

At  night  scald  the  milk,  and  while  it  is  cooling  add  the 
sugar  and  salt.  When  lukewarm,  put  in  the  yeast,  and 
enough  flour  to  make  a  thick  batter ;  then  cover  and  set 
in  a  warm  place.  In  the  morning  work  the  butter  into 
the  dough,  and  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the  soda, 
dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water.  Add  flour  enough  to 
admit  of  rolling  the  dough  out  with  a  rolling-pin.  Roll  it 
half  an  inch  thick,  cut  out  the  rusks  with  a  biscuit-cutter, 
place  them  in  a  buttered  pan,  and  when  risen  to  more 
than  double  the  original  size,  bake  them  thirty  minutes  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

RAISED    BISCUIT. 

These  are  easily  made  for  tea  when  bread  has  been 
made,  and  the  following  quantities  will  make  two  good- 
sized  panfuls  of  biscuit. 

One  pint  of  bread  dough. 
One  scanty  pint  of  milk. 
Two  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  quart  of  flour. 


356  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Mix  all  these  ingredients  but  the  flour  in  a  bowl,  cut- 
ting the  dough  with  a  knife  ;  then  add  the  flour,  measur- 
ing generously.  Knead  well,  and  set  the  dough  in  a  warm 
place  for  six  hours.  Work  it  down  at  the  end  of  that 
time,  turn  it  out  on  a  floured  board,  and  roll  it  a-quarter 
of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  the  dough  with  a  biscuit-cutter, 
place  half  of  the  cakes  in  buttered  pans,  and  spread  a  lit- 
tle soft  butter  upon  each ;  then  take  fresh  cakes  from  the 
board,  and  put  them  on  top  of  those  already  in  the  pan. 
Cover  the  whole  with  a  clean  towel,  and  set  in  a  rather 
cool  place,  the  temperature  being  about  65°.  When  the 
biscuits  are  double  their  original  size  (which  should  be  in 
two  hours),  bake  in  a  rather  hot  oven  for  thirty  minutes. 

STALE    BREAD. 

Bread  should  never  be  thrown  away,  nor  should  any 
crusts  be  burned  or  thrown  into  the  garbage  barrel,  as  is 
often  done  in  many  households.  They  should  be  placed 
in  a  pan  and  dried  very  slowly  in  the  oven,  the  door  being 
left  open.  When  dry  enough  to  crumble  between  the 
fingers,  put  the  crusts  in  a  bag  made  of  strong  cloth  or 
ticking.  Then  pound  the  bag  with  a  wooden  mallet 
until  the  crusts  are  reduced  to  fine  crumbs.  Sift  these 
crumbs,  and  put  them  away  in  boxes  or  glass  jars  :  they 
will  then  be  ready  for  breading  purposes  whenever 
needed.  Wliole  slices  of  stale  bread  may  always  be  used 
for  toast ;  and  there  are  many  recipes  here  given  that 
require  bread  for  the  making,  such  as  pies,  puddings, 
stuffings,  etc.  With  a  little  management  each  week  there 
will  be  no  stale  bread  left  over  either  to  be  thrown  away 
by  a  wasteful  cook  or  to  make  an  unnecessary  amount  of 
crumbs. 


BREAD,  357 

TO    WARM    OVER    BREAD    AND    ROLLS. 

A  stale  loaf  may  be  made  very  light  and  fresh  in  the 
following  manner:  Dip  the  loaf  quickly  in  enough  cold 
water  to  completely  submerge  it.  Then  set  it  on  a  pie- 
tin  in  the  oven  to  heat ;  this  will  require  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  for  a  loaf  of  ordinary  size.  Rolls  and  biscuit 
may  be  warmed  in  the  same  way  and  are  much  more  sat- 
isfactory than  when  steamed. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES. 

BISCUIT,    GEMS,    ETC. 
"  Then  to  breakfast,  with  what  appetite  you  have. 

< 

BISCUIT.     (BAKING    POWDER.) 


SHAKSPERE. 


One  quart  of  flour, 

Two  heaping  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Sweet  milk  to  moisten. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  even  table-spoonfuls  of  lard. 

Place  the  salt  in  the  flour,  which  should  be  measured 
before  it  is  sifted  ;  stir  well,  add  the  baking  powder,  and 
sift  once  more.  Rub  the  lard  into  the  flour,  using  the 
back  of  a  spoon  ;  and  when  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  with 
the  flour,  add  the  milk  to  moisten.  The  dough  should 
be  just  moist  enough  so  that  it  will  not  stick  to  the 
board  ;  it  should  not  be  at  all  hard,  or  the  biscuit  will  be 
hard  and  dry. 

Mold  the  dough  a  moment,  sprinkling  the  board  with 
flour;  and  when  it  forms  a  smooth  ball  roll  it  out  an 
inch  thick.  Cut  the  sheet  into  cakes  with  a  small  round 
cutter,  and  place  these  in  an  ungreased  tin.  Bake  thirty 
minutes  in  a  moderately  quick  oven.  This  quantity  will 

358 


B  RE  A  KFA  S  T  DISHES.  359 

make  one  dozen  large  biscuits,  or  eighteen  if  cut  with  a 
small  cutter.  Some  cooks  prefer  butter  to  lard  in  making 
biscuit,  but  if  the  lard  is  perfectly  sweet  it  is  much  better 
than  butter. 

BISCUIT.     (CREAM  OF*  TARTAR.) 

These  are  made  the  same  as  the  preceding,  except  that 
in  place  of  the  baking  powder  are  used 

One  tea-spoonful"  of  soda. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Grind  the  soda  perfectly  smooth  on  a  plate,  using  a 
spoon  or  knife,  and  mix  it  with  the  flour  and  cream  of 
tartar,  sifting  as  directed.  Care  is  required  in  the  use  of 
soda,  for  if  is  not  perfectly  pulverized,  the  biscuit  will  be 
yellow  and  most  disappointing. 

BISCUIT.       (SOUR    MILK.) 

Make  the  same  as  the  baking-powder  biscuit,  but  use 
one  even  tea-spoonful  of  pulverized  soda  instead  of  the 
baking  powder,  and  moisten  with  sour  milk  instead  of 
sweet.  The  milk  should  be  unmistakably  sour,  but  need 
not  be  very  thick,  to  insure  success. 

BISCUIT.      (SOUR   CREAM.) 

Make  the  same  as  the  baking-powder  biscuit,  but  omit 
the  butter,  and  substitute  a  tea-spoonful  of  soda  for  the 
baking  powder.  The  cream  should  be  rich. 

BISCUIT.     (SWEET  CREAM.) 

These  are  made  the  same  as  the  baking-powder  biscuit, 
omitting  the  butter.  As  in  the  last  recipe,  the  cream 
should  be  rich. 


360  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

MARYLAND    BEATEN    BISCUIT. 

One  quart  of  flour. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  lard. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  salt. 
One  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Rub  the  lard  and  salt  into  the  flour,  and  mix  all  with 
the  water  until  a  stiff  dough  is  formed.  Knead  ten  min- 
utes, then  beat  hard  with  a  biscuit-beater  or  heavy  rolling- 
pin,  turning  the  mass  over  and  over  until  it  begins  to 
blister  and  looks  light  and  puffy,  or  until,  pulling  off  a 
piece  quickly  will  give  a  sharp,  snapping  sound.  When 
the  dough  is  in  this  condition  pull  off  small  pieces  sud- 
denly, and  form  it  into  round  biscuits ;  then  pinch  off  a 
bit  from  the  top  of  each,  turn  the  biscuit  over,  and  press  it 
with  the  thumb,  leaving  a  hollow  in  the  middle.  Arrange 
the  biscuit  some  distance  apart  in  the  pans,  prick  them 
with  a  fork,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 
They  should  be  light  and  of  even  grain  and  should  crack 
at  the  edges  like  crackers. 

SWEDISH    BISCUIT. 

One  quart  of  flour. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter  or  lard. 

One  cupful  of  dried  currants. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Place  the  flour,  salt,  baking  powder  and  three  spoon- 
fuls of  the  sugar  in  a  flour-sieve,  and  sift  all  thoroughly. 
Rub  the  butter  into  this  mixture,  wet  the  latter  with  the 


BREAKFAST  DTSHES.  361 

milk,  and  stir  the  dough  quickly  into  the  shape  of  a  ball. 
Sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  and  roll  the  dough  until  it 
is  one-third  of  an  inch  thick.  Sprinkle  upon  this  sheet  of 
dough  the  three  remaining  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  sift  the 
nutmeg  over  the  sugar,  and  spread  the  currants  over  all. 
Roll  up  the  dough,  and  cut  it  into  slices  about  an  inch 
thick.  Place  the  slices  in  a  well  buttered  baking-tin,  and 
bake  twenty  minutes.  The  currants  may  be  omitted,  if 
not  cared  for. 

GRAHAM    GEMS.       (SOUR    MILK.) 

The  following  quantities  will  make  one  dozen  gems  of 
medium  size. 

One  tea-cupful  of  sour  milk. 

One  egg. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  and  a  half  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Graham  flour  to  thicken. 

Beat  the  egg  until  light,  and  add  to  it  the  milk,  sugar 
and  salt,  and  the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water. 
Stir  well,  adding  graham  flour  sufficient  to  make  a  batter 
so  thick  that  it  will  not  run  off  the  spoon.  Lastly  add 
the  melted  butter,  and  stir  well.  Heat  the  gem  pans,  and 
oil  them  well,  using  a  little  butter  placed  in  a  clean 
cloth,  and  rubbing  it  over  the  pan  when  heated.  Drop 
enough  of  the  mixture  into  each  space  in  the  pan  to  a 
little  more  than  half  fill  it,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
hot  oven. 


362  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

GRAHAM    GEMS.       (SWEET   MILK.) 

One  quart  of  graham  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Milk  to  moisten. 

Mix  the  salt,  sugar,  powder  and  flour  well  together  by 
sifting  all  through  a  sieve;  then  add  the  eggs,  well 
beaten,  and  the  melted  butter.  Stir  in  enough  sweet 
milk  to  make  a  thick  batter,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
well  heated  and  oiled  gem-pans. 

BREAD    GEMS. 

One  pint  of  stale  bread-crumbs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sifted  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  for  half  an  hour.  Beat 
the  whites  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  separately ;  add  the 
yolks  to  the  bread  and  milk,  then  the  melted  butter  and 
the  salt,  and  mix  all  well  together.  Stir  in  the  flour,  beat 
until  smooth,  and  stir  in  carefully  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
and  the  baking  powder.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  heated 
and  oiled  gem-pans. 

GRAHAM    GEMS,    WITHOUT    EGGS. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 
Three  cupfuls  of  sour  milk. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  363 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
Graham  flour  to  thicken. 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  soda, 
well  powdered,  then  the  milk,  and  lastly  the  flour  to 
thicken.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  well  heated  and  oiled 
gem-pans. 

CORN   GEMS. 

The  following  quantities  will  make  two  dozen  gems  : 

Two  cupfuls  of  corn  meal. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Three  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  cold  sweet  milk. 

One  cupful  of  boiling  sweet  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  the  corn  meal  in  a  mixing-bowl,  put  the  butter  in 
the  center,  and  pour  over  it  the  boiling  milk.  Stir  well, 
and  add  the  cold  milk,  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  the  salt,  and 
the  flour,  in  which  the  baking  powder  has  been  well 
mixed.  Stir  well  to  mix  thoroughly.  Bake  thirty  min- 
utes in  well  oiled  and  heated  gem-pans. 

TEA    GEMS. 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One-half  cupful  (scant)  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Milk  to  make  a  thick  batter. 


364  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Stir  the  powder,  sugar  and  salt  into  the  flour,  and  sift 
all  through  a  sieve.  Add  the  melted  butter  and  the  well- 
beaten  eggs,  stir  the  mixture  well,  and  add  enough  milk 
to  thin  it  to  a  thick  batter.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  well 
oiled  and  heated  gem-pans. 

RICE    GEMS. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  large  cupful  of  boiled  rice. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

One  egg. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
beaten  eggs,  then  the  milk  and  then  the  rice  and  salt. 
Stir  well,  mixing  thoroughly.  Sift  the  powder  with  a 
little  flour,  add  it  to  the  mixture,  and  stir  in  more  flour  as 
needed  to  make  a  rather  stiff  batter.  Bake  thirty  min- 
utes in  heated  and  oiled  gem-pans. 

GRAHAM    PUFFS. 

One  egg. 

One  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 

Two  cupfuls  of  graham  flour. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  pint  of  sweet  milk. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  beaten 
egg,  then  the  salt  and  lastly  the  milk,  stirring  all  well 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  365 

together.  Sift  together  the  two  kinds  of  flour  and  the 
baking  powder,  and  add  them  to  the  mixture.  Bake 
twenty  minutes  in  heated  and  oiled  gem-pans. 

WHEAT    PUFFS. 

Two  eggs. 

One  pint  of  sweet  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Beat  the  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the  milk.  Stir  in  the 
melted  butter  and  the  salt,  and  add  flour  to  thicken  to  a 
rather  stiff  batter.  Bake  twenty  minutes  the  same  as 
gems.  These  puffs  are  particularly  nice  with  coffee,  as 
they  contain  no  sugar. 

POP-OVERS. 

Two  tea-cupfuls  of  sweet  milk. 
Two  tea-cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Place  the  salt,  sugar  and  flour  together,  and  rub  the 
butter  into  the  mixture.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  add  the  milk 
to  the  dry  mixture,  and  then  stir  in  the  eggs.  Bake  in 
hot  gem -pans  twenty  minutes. 

MUFFINS. 

These  are  made  very  much  like  gems,  but  the  batter  is 
left  thinner,  and  they  are  usually  baked  in  muffin-rings. 


366  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

The  batter  should  be  just  thin   enough  to  pour  from  a 
spoon,  but  not  so  thin  as  to  float  the  rings. 

GRAHAM    MUFFINS. 

Two  cupfuls  of  graham  flour. 

One  cupful  of  sweet  milk. 

One-third  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  egg. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Stir  the  sugar,  salt  and  baking  powder  together,  and 
sift  them  with  the  flour  through  a  flour  sieve.  Add  the 
milk  to  the  mixture,  and  when  well  stirred,  add  the  beaten 
egg.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  muffin-rings. 

CORN     MUFFINS,    NO.    I. 

Three  eggs. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sweet  milk. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

Two  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Stir  the  sugar,  salt  and  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
beaten  egg  and  the  milk,  stirring  well.  Sift  the  meal, 
flour  and  powder  together,  and  add  them  to  the  mixture. 
Stir  well,  and  bake  in  muffin-rings. 

CORN    MUFFINS,  NO.    2. 

The  following  ingredients  will  make  fifteen  muffins  : 

One  cupful  of  corn  meal. 
Five  cupfuls  of  boiling  water. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  367 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  the  butter,  sugar,  meal  and  salt  together  in  the 
top  vessel  of  a  double  boiler  (a  tin  pail  may  be  used,  set- 
ting it  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water),  turn  the  boiling  water 
upon  the  meal,  stir  until  smooth,  and  cook  an  hour.  Do 
this  at  night,  if  the  muffins  are  required  for  breakfast. 
Turn  the  batter,  when  cooked,  into  a  small  mixing-bowl, 
and  pour  over  it  a-quarter  of  a  cupful  of  cold  water ; 
this  prevents  a  crust  forming,  and  should  not  be  stirred 
in  until  morning.  In  the  morning  beat  the  batter  up  soft 
and  smooth,  and  add 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  corn  meal. 
One  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 
One  egg. 

Sift  the  two  kinds  of  flour  and  the  baking  powder  to- 
gether, and  stir  them  into  the  mixture,  adding  the  egg? 
well  beaten,  at  the  last.  Bake  in  rings  or  in  gem-pans. 

WHEAT    MUFFINS. 

One  egg. 

Butter  the  size  of  an  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Rub  the  sugar  and  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  egg, 
well  beaten,  and  then  the  milk  and  salt.  Sift  the  baking 
powder  with  a  little  flour,  stir  it  into  the  mixture,  and  add 


368  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

enough  flour  to  make  a  batter.     Bake  twenty  minutes  in 
well-oiled  muffin-rings. 

CORN    AND    RYE    MUFFINS. 

These  are  made  the  same  as  Corn  Muffins,  No.  2,  add- 
ing, instead  of  the  flour  and  meal  in  the  morning, 

One  cupful  of  corn  meal. 
One  cupful  of  rye  flour. 
One  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 

RICE    MUFFINS. 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  cold  cooked  rice. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  baking  powder  and  salt  in  a  sieve, 
and  rub  them  all  through.  Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour 
thoroughly,  and  beat  the  eggs  light.  Add  the  milk  to  the 
dry  mixture,  and  when  smooth  stir  in  the  rice.  Beat  again 
thoroughly,  add  the  eggs,  and  bake  quickly  for  thirty-five 
minutes,  either  in  gem-pans  or  muffin-rings. 

WAFFLES. 

A  waffle-iron  is  made  of  two  iron  griddles  fitted  and 
fastened  together  at  one  side  with  a  hinge.  Each  griddle 
is  divided  into  compartments,  which  are  usually  grooved 
into  diamonds,  hearts,  rounds,  etc.  (See  "  Kitchen  Uten- 
sils," page  37.)  If  the  waffle-iron  has  not  been  used  for 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  369 

some  time,  wash  it  thoroughly  with  soap  and  water,  \vipe 
it  dry,  and  rub  well  with  dry  salt.  The  iron  should  be 
placed  over  the  fire,  heated  on  each  side,  and  greased 
carefully,  as  it  is  very  hard  to  clean  if  the  cakes  stick  to  it. 
Put  a  piece  of  salt  pork  on  a  fork,  or  a  small  piece  of 
butter  in  a  clean  rag,  and  rub  this  all  over  both  griddles  ; 
the  heat  will  melt  the  butter  and  let  just  enough  of  it 
through  the  cloth,  so  that  this  method  is  much  better  than 
applying  the  butter  with  a  knife.  Close  the  griddles  and 
turn  them  that  the  fat  may  be  distributed  equally.  Have 
the  waffle  batter  in  a  pitcher  so  that  the  filling  may  be 
done  quickly,  and  fill  each  compartment  two-thirds  full. 
Cover  with  the  other  griddle,  cook  one  minute,  turn  the 
iron,  and  cook  a  little  longer  on  that  side.  It  takes  but 
a  little  over  two  minutes  to  cook  waffles.  When  done, 
carefully  remove  them  from  the  irons,  place  them  on  a 
hot  dish,  and  serve  at  once.  Any  kind  of  griddle-cake 
batter,  with  the  addition  of  the  extra  oiling  to  make  the 
cakes  crisp,  may  be  cooked  in  a  waffle-iron,  if  one  does 
not  regard  the  extra  labor  it  involves. 

WHEAT   WAFFLES. 

Four  eggs. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  separately,  melt 

the  butter,  stir  it  into  the  yolks,  and  add  the  salt,  the 

milk   and  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  stirring  well.     Beat  in 

quickly  the  flour,  a  little  of  which  should  be  mixed  with 

24 


3/0  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  baking  powder.  The  batter  should '  be  just  thin 
enough  to  pour.  Bake  in  a  waffle-iron,  as  previously  di- 
rected. This  is  a  large  recipe. 

PLAIN   RAISED    WAFFLES. 

One  quart  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Three  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or  one-half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  milk. 

Scald  the  milk  and  cool  it.  Rub  the  butter  into  the 
flour,  and  add  the  salt,  the  cooled  milk  and  the  yeast. 
Beat  the  mixture  well  for  three  minutes,  cover,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  warm  place  until  light,  generally  over  night. 
In  the  morning  beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs 
separately,  add  the  yolks  to  the  batter  and  then  the 
whites,  stirring  well.  Let  the  batter  stand  fifteen  min- 
utes, and  then  cook  in  a  waffle-iron. 

CORN-MEAL   WAFFLES. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  corn  meal. 
Two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  sour  cream. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  table-spoonful  of  cold  water. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Two  eggs. 

Mix  the  sugar,  salt,  meal  and  flour.  Beat  the  eggs 
light.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  cold  water,  and  stir  it 
into  the  sour  cream  and  milk.  Pour  the  liquid  upon  the 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  3 7 1 

dry  mixture,  add  the  eggs  after  stirring  well,  and  bake  in 
waffle-irons.  Should  there  be  no  sour  cream  at  hand,  use 
two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  sour  milk  and  a  table-spoonful 
of  melted  butter,  measured  after  melting. 

GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

A  soap-stone  griddle  is  the  best  for  this  purpose  as  it 
does  not  require  greasing ;  but  it  should  be  allowed  twice 
the  length  of  time  to  heat  through  that  would  be  required 
to  heat  an  iron  griddle.  If  an  iron  griddle  is  used,  put  a 
small  piece  of  fat  salt  pork  on  a  fork,  and  when  the  grid- 
dle is  hot  enough  for  the  fat  to  sizzle,  rub  it  all  over  with 
the  pork,  greasing  it  plentifully  and  evenly.  Many  prefer 
an  iron  griddle,  because  the  fat  used  in  oiling  it  imparts  a 
delicate  crispness  to  the  cakes.  A  turnip,  cut  in  half,  is 
also  excellent  for  rubbing  the  griddle  before  frying  cakes, 
and  is  preferred  by  those  who  do  not  care  for  much  rich- 
ness in  the  cakes.  Take  up  a  spoonful  of  the  batter  and 
pour  it  on  the  griddle  from  the  end  of  the  spoon  ;  the 
batter  should  hiss  as  it  touches  the  griddle.  Watch  the 
cakes  carefully.  When  those  first  put  on  are  full  of  bub- 
bles they  are  ready  to  turn ;  and  generally  when  all  have 
been  turned  the  first  are  ready  to  take  off  the  griddle. 
Turn  the  griddle  often,  bringing  each  edge  of  it  in  turn 
over  the  hottest  part  of  the  stove,  that  the  cakes  may  cook 
evenly. 

SWEET  MILK   GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

Flour  to  make  a  batter. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 


3/2  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  stir  them  into  the  milk.  Add 
the  salt  and  baking  powder,  and  enough  flour  to  thicken, 
and  lastly,  stir  in  the  melted  butter.  Too  much  flour 
should  not  be  used,  if  a  light,  thin  cake  is  desired.  It  is 
wise  to  bake  one  cake  first,  to  see  if  the  batter  is  thick 
enough  and  the  griddle  sufficiently  heated. 

SOUR    MILK    GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

These  are  made  the  same  as  the  preceding,  except  that 
sour  milk  is  used  instead  of  sweet,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of 
soda  dissolved  in  a  table-spoonful  of  cold  water  takes  the 
place  of  the  baking-powder. 

BREAD    GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

These  are  especially  well  liked  by  people  fond  of 
griddle-cakes.  The  following  quantities  will  be  enough 
for  five  persons  : 

One  pint  of  sweet  milk. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

If  the  crumbs  are  hard,  soak  them  over  night  in  the 
milk ;  if  soft,  they  may  be  soaked  for  half  an  hour  in  the 
morning.  When  they  are  soft,  turn  them  with  the  milk 
into  a  colander,  and  mash  the  bread  through  it.  Add 
the  beaten  eggs,  salt,  powder  and  flour,  and  the  batter  is 
ready  to  fry.  If  an  iron  griddle  is  used  to  cook  these 
cakes,  it  should  be  oiled  a  little  more  than  usual.  The 
cakes  are  very  tender  and  should  be  turned  carefully; 
and  they  require  longer  frying  than  any  other  kind. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  373 

RICE    GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One  pint  of  boiled  rice. 

Two  pints  of  milk. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  flour. 

Three  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table -spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Put  the  cooked  rice  to  soak  over  night  in  a  pint  of 
the  milk,  and  in  the  morning  add  the  flour,  salt,  sugar 
and  butter.  Beat  the  mixture  well,  and  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  the  other  pint  of  milk,  into  which  the 
baking  powder  has  been  stirred.  This  makes  quite 
enough  cakes  for  six  or  seven  persons. 

CORN-MEAL  GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One-half  pint  of  corn  meal. 

One-half  pint  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  boiling  water. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sweet  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  eggs. 

Put  the  meal,  sugar  and  salt  in  a  mixing-bowl,  and 
pour  over  them  the  boiling  water.  Beat  thoroughly,  and 
add  the  cold  milk.  When  the  mixture  is  quite  cool  stir 
in  the  flour  and  baking  powder,  mixing  well ;  and  lastly 
add  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  The  cakes  should  be  small, 
well  browned  and  thoroughly  cooked,  and  they  need  a 
little  longer  frying  than  wheat  griddle-cakes. 


3/4  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

GRAHAM  GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
One  cupful  of  graham  flour. 
One  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 
One  pint  of  sour  milk. 
Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
One  large  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

Mix  the  two  kinds  of  flour  together,  and  add  the  sugar 
and  salt.  Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  sepa- 
rately, then  dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water,  and  stir  it  into 
the  milk.  Add  the  liquid  to  the  dry  mixture,  and  when 
well  stirred  put  in  the  beaten  egg  and  the  butter.  The 
batter  is  then  ready  to  fry. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

There  is  nothing  cooked  that  is  more  variable  than 
buckwheat  cakes.  One  day  they  may  be  perfectly  good 
and  the  next  wholly  disappointing,  although  there  may 
be  no  apparent  cause  for  the  difference.  It  should  be 
borne  in  mind  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  them  light  and 
dry  when  they  are  made  wholly  of  buckwheat  flour,  and 
that  batter  raised  with  fresh  yeast  will  not  be  so  good  as 
that  raised  with  some  of  the  unused  batter  of  the  previous 
day.  Following  is  a  very  reliable  recipe  for  buckwheat 
cakes  : 

One  pint  of  buckwheat  flour. 

One-half  cupful  of  Indian  meal. 

One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or  one-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

One  pint  of  warm  water. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  molasses. 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  375 

Beat  the  batter  thoroughly,  and  place  it  where  it  will 
rise  over  night ;  it  should  rise  and  fall  again  by  morning. 
In  the  morning  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  finely  powdered 
soda,  stir  well,  and  fry.  If  the  cakes  are  desired  three 
times  a  week,  fresh  yeast  will  not  be  required  after  the 
first  making,  if  a  little  more  than  a  pint  of  the  batter  is 
reserved  each  time  in  a  cool  place  and  used  instead  of 
the  yeast.  Always  put  molasses  in  these  cakes  as  it 
helps  to  give  them  a  fine  brown  appearance  in  frying. 

BUCKWHEAT  CAKES,  WITH    BREAD. 

Two  cupfuls  of  buckwheat. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  warm  water. 

One  cupful  of  stale  bread. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

Dissolve  the  yeast  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  water,  put  this 
with  the  rest  of  the  water,  and  pour  all  upon  the  buck- 
wheat. Add  the  salt,  beat  well  for  ten  minutes,  cover 
the  batter,  and  set  it  to  rise.  Place  the  bread  in  a  bowl 
with  the  milk,  and  let  it  soak  over  night  in  a  cool  place. 
In  the  morning  mash  it  fine  and  light,  and  add  it  to  the 
risen  buckwheat.  The  batter  is  then  ready  to  fry. 

FRENCH  PANCAKES.      (NO  SODA.) 

Three  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  flour. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  salad  oil. 


376  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs  separately, 
add  the  milk,  salt  and  sugar  to  the  yolks,  pour  one-third 
of  this  mixture  on  the  flour,  and  stir  it  to  a  smooth  paste. 
Then  add  the  remainder,  beat  well,  and  stir  in  the  oil  and 
the  beaten  whites.  Heat  and  butter  a  small  frying-pan, 
and  pour  into  it  enough  of  the  mixture  to  cover  the  bot- 
tom. When  this  side  is  brown,  turn  and  brown  the 
other  side.  When  done  lay  each  cake  on  a  warm  plate, 
spread  it  with  butter  and  sugar  or  jelly,  roll  it  up,  sprinkle 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve. 

HOE  CAKES. 

The  old  colored  cooks  in  the  South  used  to  make  these 
to  perfection  and  bake  them  on  their  hoes,  whence  the 
name. 

One  pint  of  corn  meal. 

One-half  ea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  the  corn  meal  and  salt  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  in 
sufficient  boiling  water  to  moisten  the  meal.  After  it 
has  stood  ten  minutes,  add  cold  water  until  the  mixture 
will  drop  from  the  spoon.  Bake  the  same  as  griddle- 
cakes  on  a  hot  griddle  or  a  hoe.  When  done  place  a  bit 
of  butter  on  the  top  of  each  cake,  and  serve. 

CORN  DODGER?. 

Two  cupfuls  of  corn  meal. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Boiling  water. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lard  or  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  milk. 

One  egg. 

Mix  the  salt  and  meal  together  dry,  put  the  lard  in  the 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  377 

center,  and  pour  on  enough  boiling  water  to  wet  the  meal. 
Beat  the  egg  until  light,  add  the  mill$,  and  when  the 
liquid  has  cooled  stir  it  into  the  meal.  Beat  the  mixture 
well,  drop  it  by  spoonfuls  upon  a  greased  pan,  and  bake 
in  a  very  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes. 

CORN-MEAL  PONE. 

One  quart  of  Indian  meal. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter  or  lard. 

Cold  water  to  make  a  dough. 

Mix  these  ingredients  together,  mould  the  dough  with 
the  hands  into  thin,  oblong  cakes,  lay  these  in  a  well 
greased  pan,  and  bake  quickly.  The  common  way  is  to 
form  the  dough  into  oval  mounds  that  are  higher  in  the 
middle  than  at  the  ends,  shaping  them  rapidly  and  lightly 
with  the  hands  by  tossing  the  dough  over  and  over.  This 
is  done  with  great  dexterity  by  the  cooks  in  the  South, 
where  a  "  pone  "  of  this  kind  forms  a  part  of  every  din- 
ner ;  it  is  broken,  not  cut,  and  eaten  hot. 

FLANNEL  CAKES. 

One  quart  of  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  yeast. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter,  melted. 

One  and  a- half  pint  of  milk. 

Scald  the  milk,  and  when  it  has  cooled  add  the  salt, 
flour  and  yeast.  Beat  the  mixture  until  light,  and  set  it 
to  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  add  the  melted 
butter  and  the  beaten  eggs,  and  bake  on  a  griddle. 
These  are  the  usual  griddle-cakes  in  the  South. 


3/8  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

JOHNNIE  CAKE. 

The  following  quantities  will  make  two  small  loaves  : 

Two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk. 

One  cupful  of  sifted  flour. 

Two  cupfuls  of  Indian  meal. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Two  table  spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  eggs. 

Place  the  milk,  salt  and  sugar  in  a  mixing-bowl,  and 
beat  the  eggs  until  light.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  a  little 
cold  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  mixture  in  the  bowl. 
Then  add  the  flour  and  meal,  sifted  together,  and  the 
melted  butter  and  the  eggs,  stirring  these  ingredients  in 
in  the  order  named.  Pour  the  batter  into  well  buttered 
tins,  and  bake  thirty  minutes. 

SHORTCAKES. 

These  are  made  either  with  fresh  strawberries,  peaches, 
etc.,  or  with  canned  fruits,  but  the  fresh  fruits  are  much 
to  be  preferred.  For  making  the  crust  the  baking  powder 
biscuit  dough  previously  mentioned  is  always  satisfactory. 
Mould  the  dough  into  a  round  or  oblong  mass,  having  it 
as  soft  as  can  be  handled  ;  and  press  it  out  thin  with  the 
hands,  avoiding  the  use  of  a  rolling-pin.  Then  place  the 
dough  in  a  tin  like  a  loaf  of  bread,  and  bake  forty-five 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done  it  should  be 
twice  as  thick  as  at  first.  With  a  long,  thin  knife  split 
the  loaf  in  two  parts,  cutting  it  through  the  middle ;  lay 
the  inner  sides  upward,  spread  the  soft  cake  generously 
with  butter,  and  sprinkle  with  a  light  sifting  of  sugar.  If 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  379 

strawberries  are  to  be  used,  remove  the  hulls  and  mix  a 
tea-cupful  of  sugar  with  each  quart  of  berries ;  then  leave 
them  to  season  for  at  least  an  hour,  stirring  them  up 
carefully  three  or  four  times  during  that  time.  If  there 
seems  to  be  very  little  juice  at  the  end  of  half  an  hour, 
crush  a  few  of  the  berries,  and  stir  again.  When  the 
crust  is  buttered,  divide  the  berries  equally  between  the 
two  pieces,  One  quart  of  berries,  if  good,  will  be  quite 
enough  for  the  amount  of  crust  given  in  the  recipe,  which 
will  be  ample  for  six  persons.  Sprinkle  the  berries  with 
a  light  sifting  of  sugar,  and  either  place  the  two  pieces  of 
cake  side  by  side  on  a  platter  or  lay  one  on  top  of 
the  other,  always  keeping  the  berries  uppermost.  Pile 
whipped  cream  on  top,  and  serve  ;  or  serve  with  a  cream 
sauce  made  of  a  pint  of  sweet  cream,  sweetened  to 
taste  and  adding  two  table-spoonfuls  of  crushed  berries. 

Some  cooks  divide  the  dough  into  two  parts,  lay  one 
half  in  the  baking-tin,  spread  it  lightly  with  butter,  and 
then  place  the  other  half  on  the  top ;  the  cake  is  then 
baked,  and  when  taken  from  the  oven  the  two  portions 
separate  easily,  thus  requiring  no  cutting.  The  butter 
forms  a  very  thin  coat,  through  which  the  butter  and 
berry  juice  afterwards  applied  cannot  pass ;  and  for  this 
reason  many  prefer  the  former  method,  which  presents  a 
soft  surface  that  receives  the  seasoning  admirably. 

Peaches,  oranges  and  apricots  make  delicious  short- 
cakes. 

DOUGHNUTS.      (SOUR  MILK.) 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sour  milk. 

Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 


380  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  soda. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Add  the  salt  and  sugar  to  the  milk,  and  then  the  soda, 
dissolved  in  a  little  cold  water.  Sift  a  little  flour,  stir 
into  it  the  cream  of  tartar,  and  add  this  to  the  milk ; 
then  stir  in  the  melted  butter,  and  the  eggs,  well  beaten. 
Add  only  enough  flour  to  admit  of  rolling  out  the  dough. 
Turn  the  dough  on  a  floured  bread-board,  and  let  it  stand 
fifteen  minutes  before  cutting  out.  Roll  it  half  an  inch 
thick,  cut  out  with  a  doughnut  cutter,  and  drop  the  cakes 
into  very  hot  fat.  When  they  are  brown  on  one  side  turn 
them  with  a  spoon  and  brown  them  on  the  other  side  ; 
then  take  them  out  with  a  skimmer.  Do  not  pierce  the 
doughnuts  with  a  fork,  as  that  allows  the  steam  inside  to 
escape  and  renders  them  heavy.  When  cold  roll  the 
doughnuts  in  pulverized  sugar. 

DOUGHNUTS.     (SWEET  MILK.) 

Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter.        * 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  add  the  beaten 
eggs,  salt  and  milk.  Stir  the  powder  in  a  little  of  the 
flour,  and  add  this  to  the  mixture,  together  with  the 
dough  and  just  enough  more  flour  to  admit  of  rolling  out. 


BREAKFAS T  DISHES.  3 8 1 

The  softer  the  dough  is  made  the  lighter  and  more 
tender  will  be  the  doughnuts  when  cooked.  Fry  in  very 
hot  fat  as  above ;  and  when  the  cakes  are  cold,  roll 
them  in  sugar. 

RAISED    DOUGHNUTS. 

The  following  is  a  very  reliable  recipe  : 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  yeast,  or  one  cake. 

One-half  cupful  of  lard. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Three  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Flour. 

Soak  the  compressed  yeast  (if  used )  in  half  a  cupful 
of  water,  then  add  the  milk,  and  flour  enough  to 
make  a  thick  batter,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise. 
When  light,  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  knead  the 
same  as  bread,  adding  flour  to  make  a  dough.  Set  the 
dough  to  rise,  and  when  light  roll  it  out  half  an  inch 
thick,  cut  out  with  a  doughnut-cutter,  and  leave  the 
doughnuts  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  As  soon  as  they  are 
perfectly  light  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  In  making  these 
doughnuts  set  the  sponge  about  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  knead  it*  at  night  the  same  as  bread,  and 
mold  and  cut  out  on  the  following  morning.  In  this  way 
the  time  of  rising  does  not  interfere  with  other  work  and 
is  not  hurried.  It  is  best  to  scald  and  cool  the  milk 
before  using  it  for  the  sponge,  thus  preventing  any  chance 
of  its  becoming  sour.  Roll  the  doughnuts  in  confection- 
ers' sugar  when  cold. 


382  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CRULLERS. 

Three  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Rub  the  butter,  salt  and  sugar  together,  add  the  beaten 
eggs  and  the  milk  and  flour  enough  to  roll  out  the 
dough.  Roll  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  out  and  fry  in  hot  lard 
as  previously  directed. 

FRIED    CAKES. 

Three  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

Place  the  sugar,  salt,  spice  and  baking  powder  in  a  lit- 
tle flour,  and  mix  well,  sifting  all  through  a  flour  sieve. 
Beat  the  eggs  light,  and  add  them  to  the  milk.  Then 
stir  the  two  mixtures  well  together,  and  add  just  enough 
more  flour  to  admit  of  rolling  nicely.  Roll  the  dough 
half  an  inch  thick,  cut  out  with  a  round  cutter,  and  fry  in 
hot  lard. 

FRITTERS. 

These  are  fried  the  same  as  doughnuts  in  plenty  of  hot 
lard  ;  they  are  not,  however,  made  thick  enough  to  roll 
outj  but  are  dropped  from  a  spoon,  being  only  a  thick 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  383 

batter.  Fritters  are  either  made  plain  and  served  with 
hot  syrup  or  are  seasoned  with  fruits,  vegetables,  clams 
or  oysters  stirred  into  the  batter.  .  Recipes  for  the  latter 
varieties  will  be  found  under  their  respective  headings. 
Fruit  fritters  are  made  by  dropping  the  fruit  into  the 
plain  batter  and  then  frying.  Fritters  are  always  served 
hot. 

PLAIN  FRITTERS. 

One  egg. 

One-half  pint  of  sweet  milk. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Place  all  the  ingredients  together,  beating  the  egg  well 
before  adding  it,  and  using  enough  flour  to  make  a  thick 
batter.  It  should  not  run  from  a  spoon,  but  should  be 
thick  enough  to  be  dropped  by  the  spoonful.  Serve  with 
hot  sugar  syrup  or  hot  maple  syrup. 

SOUR    MILK    FRITTERS. 

One  coffee-cupful -of  sour  milk. 

One  egg. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Mix  together  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  fry, 
and  serve  hot. 

CEREALS   FOR  BREAKFAST. 

There  is  scarcely  a  household  nowadays  in  which 
some  kind  of  mush  or  porridge  does  not  form  a  portion 
of  the  morning  meal  The  grain  preparations  are  almost 


384  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

innumerable,  and  many  of  them  are  crushed  or  steamed 
so  that  the  time  required  to  cook  is  greatly  diminished. 
Many  people,  however,  prefer  wheat  or  oats  that  are 
unrolled,  and  these  require  long  cooking  to  make  them 
digestible.  The  names  of  a  few  cereals  are  here  given, 
together  with  a  brief  description  of  each. 

Cracked  wheat — Whole  wheat  grains. 

Farina — Made  from  wheat. 

Hominy — Made  from  Indian  corn,  the  grain  being  left 
nearly  whole. 

Grits — Fine  hominy. 

Samp — Made  from  corn,  which  is  merely  broken  into  a 
number  of  pieces. 

Hulled  Corn — The  corn  soaked  to  remove  the  hulls. 

Cerealine — Made  from  corn. 

Oatmeal — This  is  made  in  three  grades  of  fineness,  the 
coarsest  being  known  as  "  B  B."  This  is  simply  the 
whole  oats  minus  the  husks  and  is  the  kind  used  by  the 
Scotch  people. 

OATMEAL    MUSH. 

If  the  coarse  meal  is  used,  allow 

One  cupful  of  oatmeal. 
Four  cupfuls  of  water. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  the  meal  in  the  double  boiler  with  the  water  and 
salt,  and  do  not  stir  it.  Cover  the  kettle  tightly,  and 
keep  the  water  in  the  under  kettle  boiling.  The  mush 
should  cook  three  hours.  This  length  of  boiling  is 
not  possible  before  breakfast  if  done  in  the  morning  ; 
therefore,  the  mush  should  be  cooked  the  day  before  it  is 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  385 

needed.  Leave  it  in  the  kettle  over  night,  and  in  the 
morning  add  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water,  replenish  the 
hot  water  in  the  lower  kettle,  and  set  the  whole  to  heat 
while  the  remainder  of  the  breakfast  is  being  prepared. 

If  steamed  or  rolled  oats  are  liked,  they  can  be  cooked 
in  the  morning  in  half  an  hour,  allowing  a  cupful  of 
meal  to  one  quart  of  water  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Stir  up  two  or  three  times,  and  during  the  last  five  min- 
utes remove  the  cover  from  the  kettle  to  allow  the  steam 
to  escape,  so  that  the  mush  will  not  be  too  moist  when 
served. 

WHEAT   GERM     MUSH. 

Wheat  Germs  is  the  name  given  a  fine  meal  obtained 
from  the  heart  of  the  wheat.  Place  a  quart  of  boiling- 
water  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  double  boiler,  having 
water  boiling  also,  in  the  lower  portion.  Gradually 
sprinkle  in  a  cupful  of  the  germs,  add  a  tea-spoonful 
of  salt,  and  stir  constantly  until  the  mixture  boils.  Cook 
twenty  minutes,  and  serve  with  sugar  and  cream  or  milk, 
or  with  syrup.  This  makes  a  pleasant  change  from  oat- 
meal and  cracked  wheat.  Any  of  the  mush  left  over  may 
be  fried  like  corn  meal  mush  or  hominy. 

GRITS    OR    SMALL-HOMINY    MUSH. 

Buy  only  the  fine  white  hominy.  Wash  a  cupful  of 
the  hominy  in  three  waters,  stir  it  into  a  quart  of  boiling 
water,  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  boil  for  half  an 
hour. 

FRIED    GRITS. 

Pour  the  hominy  mush  while  hot  into  a  deep  dish  that 
has  just  been  dipped  in  cold  water.  When  the  mush  is 


386  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

cold,  cut  it  into  slices,  sprinkle  these  with  flour,  and  fry 
in  just  enough  fat  to  keep  them  from  burning.  This 
mush  requires  a  long  time  to  brown,  and  the  pan  should 
be  covered,  as  the  fat  spatters. 

CORN  MUSH. 

This  is  usually  made  by  gradually  sprinkling  a  pint 
of  corn  meal  into  three  pints  of  boiling  water,  stirring 
constantly,  adding  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt,  and  boiling 
slowly  for  three  hours.  Keep  the  kettle  covered  during 
the  boiling,  and  add  water  if  the  mush  becomes 
too  thick.  Serve  with  milk  and  sugar.  Place  all  the 
mush  that  is  left  after  the  first  meal  in  an  earthenware 
'dish  which  has  been  previously  wet  with  cold  water,  to  be 
fried  when  cold.  One  of  the  large  baking-powder  tins  is 
also  a  very  convenient  receptable  to  use  for  this  purpose, 
as  the  mush  when  cold  can  be  easily  slipped  out  of  it  and 
the  slices  will  be  round  and  most  inviting.  The  tin 
should  be  wet  before  the  mush  is  poured  in. 

Another  method  of  cooking  corn  mush  is  as  follows : 
Put  on  a  quart  of  water  to  boil.  Stir  a  pint  of  cold  milk 
with  a  pint  of  corn  meal  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
When  the  water  boils  pour  this  mixture  gradually  into  it, 
stirring  all  the  time.  There  is  less  likelihood  of  the  mush 
being  lumpy  when  mixed  in  this  way. 

FRIED    CORN    MUSH. 

Cut  the  cold  mush  into  slices  about  a-quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  and  fry  until  brown  and  crisp  in  a  very  little 
fat ;  or  sprinkle  the  slices  with  flour,  and  fry  ;  or  dip 
each  slice  first  in  salted  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread  or 
cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  brown.  Fried  mush  is  one  of  the 


BREAKFAST  DISHES.  387 

most  delicious  of  breakfast  dishes  when  properly  pre- 
pared. The  fat  should  be  very  hot,  so  that  a  crust  will 
quickly  form  upon  the  slices  preventing  them  from  soak- 
ing up  any  of  the  grease. 


PIES. 

"  Who'll  dare  deny  the  truth, 
There's  poetry  in  pie  ? " 

LONGFELLOW. 

PASTRY. 

IT  is  not  a  difficult  thing  to  make  puff-paste,  yet  nearly 
all  cooks  and  housekeepers  regard  it  a  feat  rather  hard 
to  accomplish.  The  work  is  not  complicated,  but  it  must 
be  done  very  rapidly  and  with  great  delicacy  of  touch. 
In  the  many  rules  given  in  as  many  books  the  principal 
ingredients  are  practically  the  same — a  pound  of  butter 
to  a  pound  of  flour,  with  differences  in  the  way  of  lemon- 
juice,  eggs  or  sugar. 

In  making  puff-paste  the  object  should  be  to  form 
as  many  distinct  layers  as  possible,  and  each  layer  should 
be  as  thin  as  a  sheet  of  paper.  To  insure  this  result,  all 
the  materials  and  utensils  used  should  be  very  cold,  and 
the  work  done  in  a  cool  room.  Puff-paste  should  never 
be  attempted  with  lard  or  a  mixture  of  lard  and  butter  ; 
and  the  butter  used  must  be  of  good  quality.  The  best 
flour  for  this  work  is  that  made  by  the  "  old  process," 
and  commonly  known  as  "pastry  flour."  In  winter, 
when  the  temperature  is  at  freezing  point,  or  in  summer, 
when  a  refrigerator  is  at  hand,  it  is  really  but  little  more 

388 


PIES,  389 

tax  on  time  and  muscle  to  make  this  paste  than  to  pro- 
duce any  other  variety  of  crust.  Hundreds  of  different 
dishes  can  be  made  with  it ;  and  Careme,  the  noted 
French  professional,  has  devoted  a  good-sized  volume  to 
the  subject.  As  there  can  be  no  better  mode  of  making 
the  paste  than  the  one  he  has  given  to  the  world,  we  pre- 
sent his  recipe  in  this  connection.  It  may  be  of  assist- 
ance to  know  that  four  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour  make  a 
pound  in  weight,  and  that  a  cupful  of  lard  or  butter  is 
half  a  pound  in  weight. 

CAREME'S  RECIPE  FOR  PUFF-PASTE. 

Twelve  ounces  of  finely  sifted  flour. 

Twelve  ounces  of  butter. 

One  scant  glassful  of  ice-water. 

Two  drains  of  salt. 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 

Having  placed  the  flour  on  the  board,  make  a  small  hole 
in  the  middle  of  it,  into  which  put  the  salt,  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs,  and  nearly  a  glassful  of  ice-water.  With  the 
ends  of  the  fingers  gradually  mix  the  flour  with  the  liquid 
ingredients,  adding  a  little  more  water  when  necessary, 
until  the  paste  is  of  the  proper  consistency — rather  firm 
than  otherwise.  Then  lean  the  hand  on  the  board  and 
work  the  paste  for.  some  minutes,  when  it  will  become 
soft  to  the  touch  and  glossy  in  appearance.  Care  must 
be  taken  in  mixing  the  flour  with  the  liquid  that  the  latter 
does  not  escape,  and  that  the  paste  be  very  lightly 
gathered  together  to  prevent  it  forming  into  lumps,  which 
would  render  it  stiff  and  very  difficult  to  work,  thus  mak- 
ing a  failure  of  the  paste  very  probable.  To  ascertain 
whether  the  dough  has  been  properly  worked,  draw  it  out 


390  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

and  if  it  immediately  recedes  to  its  former  shape,  the 
cook  may  be  sure  it  has  been  clumsily  and  irregularly 
mixed.  To  remedy  this,  roll  the  paste  out  carefully  and 
place  here  and  there  upon  it  five  or  six  pieces  of  butter, 
each  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  then  work  it  as  before  until  the 
proper  degree  of  softness  is  attained.  The  paste  should 
neither  be  too  stiff  nor  too  soft,  but  of  a  proper  medium  ; 
yet  it  is  better  for  it  to  be  too  soft  than  too  stiff.  A 
warm  place  should  not  be  chosen  in  which  to  make  puff 
paste,  hence  it  is  rather  difficult  to  do  work  of  this  kind 
properly  in  summer.  If  a  cool  place  cannot  be  found, 
the  paste  might  be  made  up  slightly  stiffer  in  summer 
than  in  winter.  When  the  paste  has  been  made  as 
above,  cut  in  pieces  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter 
,  which  has  been  lying  for  twenty  minutes  in  ice-water,  and 
been  afterward  well  washed  and  pounded.  Squeeze  and 
work  the  butter  well  in  a  napkin  to  separate  the  water 
from  it  and  at  the  same  time  to  render  it  soft,  and,  above 
all,  of  an  even  consistency;  then  as  quickly  as  possible 
roll  the  paste  into  a  square  on  a  marble  slab,  being  par- 
ticular to  make  the  ends  of  the  dough  perfectly  even,  as 
success  depends  largely  on  folding  properly.  Place  the 
butter  in  the  middle,  spread  it  over  half  the  paste,  and 
immediately  turn  the  other  half  over  the  butter  to  cover 
it.  Then  roll  the  paste  out  to  be  about  three  feet  in 
length,  fold  it  so  as  to  make  three  thicknesses,  and  roll 
it  as  before ;  then  fold  it  once  more  into  three  equal 
parts,  roll  it  to  a  greater  length,  fold  it,  and  place  it 
quickly  on  a  plate  sprinkled  with  flour.  Set  the  plate 
upon  ten  pounds  of  pounded  ice,  cover  the  paste  with  a 
second  plate,  and  place  a  pound  of -broken  ice  on  top  of 
the  latter  plate,  which  serves  to  keep  the  surface  of  the 


PIES.  39 1 

paste  cool,  and  also  to  prevent  it  being  softened  by  the 
action  of  the  air.  After  two  or  three  minutes  remove 
the  top  plate  and  turn  the  paste  upside  down,  instantly 
covering  it  as  before.  In  about  fifteen  minutes  roll  the 
paste  out,  and  use  it  very  expeditiously. 

Thus  in  less  than  half  an  hour  it  is  possible  to  make 
very  fine  puff-paste,  but  this  is  only  provided  everything 
has  been  previously  prepared — the  ice  pounded,  the 
butter  frozen  and  the  oven  made  quite  hot,  for  otherwise 
the  paste  cannot  be  made  so  quickly.  The  heating  of 
the  oven  must  be  attended  to  by  all  means,  for  it  some- 
times requires  fully  an  hour  to  bring  it  to  the  proper  tem- 
perature. It  is  safe  to  begin  to  make  the  paste  when  the 
oven  is  half  heated. 

PUFF-PASTE  (AMERICAN). 

The  following  recipe  is  that  used  by  one  of  our  profes- 
sional cooks,  and  is  somewhat  different  in  its  working 
from  the  preceding,  but  is  highly  successful.  It  is  not 
so  rich  as  the  Careme  paste. 

One  pound  of  flour. 

Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter. 

Ice- water. 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Place  the  flour  when  sifted  on  a  board  or  marble  slab, 
and  sprinkle  over  it  the  sugar  and  salt ;  then  beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  stir  into  them  a  few  spoonfuls  of  ice- 
cold  water.  Pour  the  eggs  slowly  into  the  center  of  the 
flour  with  the  left  hand,  working  them  at  the  same  time 


392  THE  1'A  TTERN  COOK-BOO  PC. 

well  into  the  mass  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers  of  the  right 
hand.  Continue  to  work  the  mixture,  turning  the  fingers 
round  and  round  on  the  board,  until  you  have  a  well- 
worked,  smooth  and  fine  paste.  Now  roll  the  paste  out 
into  a  rectangular  form,  being  particular  to  have  the 
edges  quite  straight,  since,  as  we  said  before,  much  de- 
pends upon  the  even  folding  of  the  paste.  Work  the 
butter  (which,  if  at  all  soft,  should  be  laid  for  some  min- 
utes in  very  cold  water)  until  the  moisture  and  salt  are 
wiped  out  and  it  is  quite  supple,  being  careful,  however, 
that  it  does  not  become  too  soft,  as  in  this  condition  it 
would  ruin  the  paste.  Divide  the  butter  into  three  equal 
parts,  spread  one  part  as  flatly  and  evenly  as  possible 
over  half  the  paste,  turn  the  other  half  over  it,  and 
fold  a  second  time  from  right  to  left.  Roll  out  to  the 
same  rectangular  form  as  before,  spread  the  second 
portion  of  the  butter  on  half  of  the  crust,  fold  and 
roll  out  again,  and  repeat  the  process  with  the  third  por- 
tion of  butter.  The  paste  has  now  been  given  what  is 
called  "  three  turns,"  and  it  should  be  given  three  turns 
more.  After  the  first  three  turns,  however,  and  after 
each  of  the  last  three,  the  paste  should  be  placed  on  the 
ice  or  in  a  cool  place  for  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes. 
This  will  prevent  the  butter  becoming  soft  enough  to 
penetrate  the  dough.  Each  time,  before  the  dough  is 
folded,  it  should  be  turned  half  round  so  that  it  will  be 
rolled  in  a  different  direction ;  in  this  way  the  layers  will 
become  more  even.  If  it  becomes  necessary  to  turn  the 
paste  in  order  to  sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  it  may  be 
done  in  this  way:  hold  the  end  of  the  paste  to  the  rolling- 
pin,  and  then  by  rolling  the  latter  the  dough  will  fold 
loosely  around  it ;  after  sprinkling  the  board  with  flour. 


PIES.  393 

the  dough  can  be  unrolled.  This  is  a  better  plan  than 
turning  it  with  the  hands,  as  it  should  be  handled  as  little 
as  possible.  After  the  paste  has  been  folded  the  last 
time,  put  it  on  a  platter,  cover,  and  place  it  on  the  ice  for 
half  an  hour,  or  until  it  is  thoroughly  chilled  ;  then  roll  it 
out  for  instant  use  ;  or,  if  it  be  not  required  for  immediate 
baking,  it  may  be  kept  in  a  half-frozen  state  for  two  or 
three  days.  Firm,  solid  butter  should  be  selected  for 
puff-paste,  and  a  cold  place  should  be  chosen  for  the 
work.  Even  in  winter  it  is  wise  to  make  it  by  an  open 
window. 

TO    BAKE    PUFF-PASTE. 

A  most  important  factor  in  the  making  of  puff-paste  is 
having  the  oven  at  exactly  the  proper  temperature,  for 
even  if  the  very  best  materials  have  been  selected  and 
have  been  mixed  exactly  as  directed,  the  paste  will  be  a 
failure  if  placed  in  an  oven  that  is  not  rightly  heated. 
The  paste  should  be  ice  -cold  when  put  into  the  oven, 
which  should  be  very  hot  (at  least  as  high  as  460°  Fahren- 
heit, if  a  thermometer  is  used). 

For  patties  the  oven  should  have  a  strong  underheat, 
allowing  them  to  rise  to  their  full  height  before  browning. 
If  the  oven  should  be  too  hot,  so  that  the  paste  begins  to 
brown  as  soon  as  put  in,  immediately  reduce  the  tempera- 
ture by  opening  the  draughts  of  the  stove,  and  placing  in 
the  oven  a  small  basin  of  ice-water. 

HOW    TO    SHAPE    PUFF-PASTE. 

For  Pies  with  Two  Crusts. — Roll  the  paste  out  a-quar- 
ter  of  an  inch  thick,  then  roll  it  up,  and  cut  a  piece  from 
the  end  of  the  roll.  Turn  the  portion  thus  cut  off  on  the 


394  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

side,  pat  it  out  flat,  and  roll  to  fit  the  plate.  Keep  the 
paste  in  a  circular  form,  and  roll  evenly  in  every  direc- 
tion. Make  it  slightly  larger  than  the  plate,  as  the  paste 
shrinks  \tfhen  taken  from  the  board,  and  should  be  fulled 
in  rather  than  stretched  to  the  required  size.  When  the 
paste  is  fitted,  cut  around  the  edge  with  a  sharp  knife 
dipped  in  flour.  Roll  some  of  the  paste,  and  cut  it  into 
strips  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide ;  then  wet  the  under- 
crust,  and  place  the  rim  on  the  edge.  Fill  the  plate  with 
the  material  to  be  use<^.  Roll  the  upper-crust  larger 
than  the  plate,  make  a  cut  in  the  center  to  let  the  steam 
of  baking  escape,  wet  the  rim  on  the  pie,  and  put  on  the 
upper-crust  with  its  edge  even  with  the  rim,  having  this 
crust  slightly  full  in  the  center  to  allow  for  its  shrinking 
in  baking;  otherwise  the  crust,  as  it  is  forced  up  by  the 
steam  within,  will  be  drawn  away  from  the  edge.  Press 
the  rim  and  edge  closely  but  lightly  together  to  keep  the 
juices  from  boiling  out. 

For  Pies  with  One  Crust. — The  following  directions 
apply  to  squash,  pumpkin  and  custard  pies.  Butter  the 
plate  lightly  or  sprinkle  it  with  a  light  dusting  of  flour. 
Roll  the  paste  a  little  larger  than  the  plate,  and  an-eighth 
of  an  inch  thick.  Cover  the  plate  with  this  sheet,  being 
careful  not  ta  shut  in  any  air  between  the  paste  and  the 
plate  ;  the  paste  should  hang  about  half  an  inch  over  the 
edge  of  the  plate.  Roll  the  edge  up  until  it  rests  on 
the  edge  of  the  plate,  the  rolled  part  being  underneath ; 
there  will  then  be  a  thick  edge  all  round  the  plate. 
Pinch  this  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger  until  a  thin 
scalloped  "  wall "  is  formed.  It  is  always  wise  to  build  a 
wall  like  this,  because  plates  are  not  made  deep  enough 
for  these  pies  to  be  made  of  the  desired  thickness. 


PIES.  395 

For  Patties. — Roll  the  paste  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  cut  it  out  with  a  circular  cutter  at  least  two  inches 
and  a-half  in  diameter.  With  a  cutter  an  inch  and  a-half 
in  diameter,  stamp  out  the  centers  from  half  of  the  cir- 
cular portions,  thus  leaving  rings  of  paste  half  an  inch 
wide.  Dip  the  cutters  in  hot  water  and  cut  quickly,  that 
the  edges  of  the  paste  may  not  be  pressed  together  or 
cut  unevenly.  Rub  a  little  white  of  egg  in  the  large 
rounds  near  the  edge,  put  on  the  rings,  and  press  them 
lightly  to  make  them  adhere,  being  very  careful,  however, 
not  to  get  any  of  the  egg  on  the  edges,  as  that  would 
prevent  the  patties  rising.  Put  a  round  piece  of  stale 
bread  cut  half  an  inch  thick  in  the  center  of  each  patty, 
to  keep  the  paste  from  rising*  and  filling  the.  cavity. 
Bake  in  shallow  pans  lined  with  paper,  and  when  done, 
remove  the  bread  and  the  soft  paste  underneath.  Bake 
the  small  pieces  cut  from  the  centers  on  a  pan  by  them- 
selves, as  they  .require  less  time  for  baking.  In  servini; 
place  one  o^these  pieces  on  top  of  each  patty  or  shell,  for 
a  cover.  Any  kind  of  delicate  cooked  meat  or  fish  such 
as  chickens,  sweetbreads,  oysters  or  lobsters,  may  be  cut 
in  small  pieces,  warmed  in  thick  cream  sauce  and  served 
as  an  entree  in  hot  patty  shells,  with  a  cover  of  the  paste. 
Two  or  three  rings  may  be  put  on  when  a  deeper  shell  is 
desired. 

Tarts. — For  these  the  paste  is  rolled  thinner  than  for 
patties,  being  not  more  than  an-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  ; 
and  it  is  usually  cut  with  a  fluted  cutter.  The  shapes  are 
filled,  when  cold,  with  jelly  or  preserves,  and  a  cover  of 
paste  is  not  used. 

Tart  Wells. — Cut  the  rounds  of  paste  with  three  or 
four  cutters  of  different  sizes.  Use  the  largest  portion 


396  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

for  the  bottom  ;  cut  the  centers  from  the  others,  leaving 
the  rims  of  different  widths,  and  pile  the  latter  on  the 
whole  round,  with  the  narrowest  rim  at  the  top.  Bake 
and  fill  with  jelly. 

Vol-au-vents. —  Roll  the  paste  half  an  inch  thick,  and 
for  a  large  vol-au-vent  make  it  nine  inches  in  diameter. 
Mark  the  outline  with  an  oval  mold  or  pan,  and  put  on 
two  or  three  rings,  wetting  the  edge  of  each  with  white  of 
egg.  Make  an  oval  hoop  of  stiff  paper  two  inches  high 
and  slightly  larger  than  the  vol-au-vent,  and  place  it 
around  the  latter  to  prevent  scorching.  Bake  this  size  at 
least  an  hour.  These  cases  are  used  in  the  same  manner 
as  patties. 

Rissoles. — Roll  the  paste  thin,  and  cut  it  out  with  a 
four-inch  fluted  patty-cutter.  Put  a  generous  tea-spoonful 
of  cold  chicken  or  whatever  is  to  be  used  in  the  rissoles 
in  the  center  of  each  round.  Wet  the  edges  with  white  of 
egg,  fold  the  paste  over  and  press  the  edges  together. 
Glaze  with  beaten  egg,  and  fry  in  hot  lard,  or  bake. 

PLAIN    PASTE    WITH    BUTTER. 

The  following  quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  one  pie 
having  an  upper  and  an  under  crust : 

Two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
Two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  ice-water. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

As  in  puff-paste,  have  everything  as  cold  as  possible ; 
and  in  warm  weather  place  the  butter  and  flour  in  the 
refrigerator  for  several  hours  before  using  them.  Sift 


PIES.  397 

the  flour,  measure  it,  and  put  it  in  a  large  mixing-bowl ; 
add  the  salt  and  sugar,  and  then  place  the  butter  in  the 
center  of  the  flour,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  it  quickly 
into  small  pieces,  at  the  same  time  mixing  it  with  the 
flour.  Now  gradually  add  the  ice-water;  lift  with  the 
knife  that  portion  of  the  flour  which  has  been  moistened 
first,  push  it  to  one  side  of  the  bowl,  wet  another  portion, 
and  so  continue  until  all  is  moistened.  Add  the  water 
very  carefully,  wetting  only  the  dry  flour  and  never  stirring 
twice  in  the  same  place.  Then  cut  and  mix  all  together 
until  the  mixture  can  be  lifted  from  the  bowl  with  the 
knife.  Dredge  the  baking-board  lightly  with  flour,  and 
roll  the  paste  lightly  and  quickly  away  from  you  into  a 
long,  thin  sheet.  Fold  first  the  sides  and  then  the  ends, 
turn  the  paste  around  and  roll  it  from  you  again ;  then 
fold  it  and  stand  it  on  the  ice  until  wanted.  In  order  to 
make  this  paste  a  perfect  success  the  materials  should  be 
very  cold,  the  mixing  and  rolling  should  be  quickly  done, 
and  as  little  flour  as  possible  should  be  used  in  finishing. 

CHOPPED    PUFF-PASTE. 

This  paste  is   quickly  made   and   is   very  satisfactory, 
although  not  so  light  or  delicate  as  genuine  puff-paste. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  ice-water. 

One  egg. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice. 

Beat  the  egg  very  light,  and  add  to  it   the    water   and 
the  lemon-juice.     Chop  the  butter  and  the  flour  together, 


398  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

until  the  butter  is  reduced  to  lumps  the  size  of  a  pea  ;  then 
gradually  add  the  egg  and  water,  chopping  all  the  time. 
When  all  the  wetting  has  been  used,  sp'rinkle  the  mold- 
ing-board with  flour,  and  turn  the  paste  upon  it.  Roll 
and  fold  the  same  as  puff-paste,  repeating  the  process 
three  or  four  times  ;  then  set  the  paste  on  the  ice,  and 
when  cold,  use  like  puff-paste.  This  paste  may  be  used 
without  chilling,  but  will  not  be  so  light. 

PLAIN    PASTE    WITH    LARD. 

Many  housekeepers  always  use  lard  for  pastry  instead 
of  butter,  simply  because  it  is  cheaper.  It  makes  a  crust 
that  is  more  brittle  and  also  more  greasy,  and  there  is  no 
doubt  but  that  it  is  more  indigestible  than  the  light,  flaky, 
tender  crust  made  with  good,  sweet  butter.  For  one  pie 
with  two  crusts  allow, 

Two  cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
One-half  cupful  of  lard. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  cupful  (scant)  of  ice- water. 

Make  and  roll  the  same  as  directed  for  "  Plain  Paste 
with  Butter." 

APPLE    PIE. 

Any  light,  tart  apples  may  be  used  for  pies,  but  Green- 
ings are  always  most  satisfactory.  Pare,  quarter  and  core 
the  apples,  slicing  each  one  as  it  is  finished  into  the  pie- 
plate  or  tin  in  which  the  pie  is  to  be  made,  continuing  to 
slice  until  the  plate  is  evenly  full.  In  this  way  there  will 
not  be  more  apples  peeled  than  can  be  used.  Turn  the 
sliced  apple  into  a  dish,  and  for  one  pie  of  ordinary  size 
add  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  cinna- 


PIES.  m         399 

mon.  Stir  the  apple  with  a  spoon  until  each  slice  seems 
to  have  its  share  of  sugar  and  spice.  Wipe  the  pie  dish 
dry,  dust  it  lightly  with  flour,  line  it  with  good  plain  or 
puff  paste,  put  in  the  apples,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  water.  Cover  the  top  as  directed  in  "  How  to  Shape 
Puff  Paste,"  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a 
quick  oven.  When  the  pie  is  cold  sprinkle  the  top 
thickly  with  pulverized  sugar,  and  serve. 

AN    APPLE    TART. 

Ten  apples. 

One-half  a  lemon  (juice  and  rind). 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Water. 

Pare  the  apples,  and  from  four  of  the  largest  and  firm- 
est extract  the  cores  without  breaking  the  apples.  Place 
these  four  in  a  small  stew-pan  with  half  the  lemon-juice, 
half  the  grated  rind  and  half  the  sugar;  nearly  cover  them 
with  water,  and  boil  slowly  until  nearly  done,  keeping  the 
apples  whole.  Cut  the  remaining  six  apples  into  pieces, 
and  place  them  on  the  fire  in  a  separate  stew-pan  with  the 
remainder  of  the  lemon-juice,  rind  and  sugar  and  a  little 
water.  Boil  them  slowly  to  a  regular  apple-sauce  or 
marmalade,  add  the  butter,  and  rub  the  whole  through  a 
colander.  Line  the  pie-plate  with  paste,  fill  the  bottom 
with  the  marmalade,  and  put  in  the  whole  apples,  one  in 
each  quarter  of  the  pie,  sinking  them  into  the  marmalade 
and  filling  the  cavities  between  them  with  the  sauce. 
Place  two  strips  of  crust  half  an  inch  wide  across  the  pie, 
thus  separating  the  four  apples;  and  bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  This  tart  is  very  delicate  served  with  cream. 


4OO  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON   PIE. 
To  make  one  pie,  take 

One  large  lemon. 
I  Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  large  cupful  of  water. 

Grate  the  rind  from  the  lemon,  and  add  it  and  the 
juice  to  the  sugar.  Stir  well,  and  add  the  water,  and 
the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Bake  with  an  upper  and  under 
crust  for  forty-five  minutes. 

LEMON    CUSTARD    PIE. 

The  following  filling  is  sufficient  for  two  pies. 

Three  eggs. 

One  large  or  two  small  lemons. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Separate  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  from  the  whites ;  rub 
the  sugar  and  the  yolks  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  water 
and  then  the  milk.  Stir  all  well  together,  and  put  in  the 
melted  butter,  and  when  everything  is  ready  to  put  the 
filling  in  the  crust  add  the  lemon-juice  and  the  grated 
rind.  If  added  in  this  way,  the  acid  will  not  break  the 
milk.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Whip  the  whites 
to  a  stiff  froth,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  this 
mixture  on  top  of  the  pies,  when  baked,  return  them  to 
the  oven,  and  brown  the  whites  lightly.  These  pies  are 
to  be  eaten  cold. 


PIES.  401 

LEMON    PIE    WITH    BREAD. 

The  following  is  a  most  reliable  recipe  and  will  make 
one  pie.  Only  one  crust  is  used  : 

One  lemon. 

One  large  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 

One-table-spoonful  of  melted  butter. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

Cold  water. 

The  bread  should  not  be  hard,  the  crusts  not  being 
available  for  this  filling.  Put  the  crumbs,  which  should 
be  half  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  in  a  quart  cup,  measuring  a 
full  pint ;  add  the  lemon-juice,  half  the  grated  rind,  the 
sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten  ;  and  turn 
into  the  cup  sufficient  water  to  make  the  whole  measure 
just  a  pint  and  a-half.  Stir  well,  and  let  the  mixture 
stand  in  the  cup  while  the  plate  is  being  lined  with  paste  ; 
then  stir  well  again,  mashing  the  bread  fine.  If  the 
bread  does  not  seem  entirely  soft,  do  not  add  the  filling 
to  the  crust,  but  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  longer;  -this, 
however,  will  rarely  be  necessary.  Just  before  putting 
the  filling  into  the  crust  add  the  melted  butter ;  then 
bake  about  thirty-five  minutes  in  a  quick  oven.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  a  small  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  spread  this  froth  on  top  of  the  pie  when  baked, 
return  the  pie  to  the  oven,  and  quickly  brown  it.  Serve 
cold. 


LEMON    PIE    WITH    CORN-STARCH. 

This  is  baked  with  one  crust.     To  make  one  pie,  allow 
26 


4O2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  lemon. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  and  a-half  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One  cupful  of  water.    . 

One  egg  (white  only). 

Sugar  to  taste. 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the  water,  and  place 
the  rest  of  the  water  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  ;  and 
when  the  latter  boils  stir  into  it  the  wet  corn-starch,  and 
boil  a  minute  after  it  thickens.  Add  the  butter,  and 
set  the  mixture  aside  to  cool.  Line  a  pie-plate  with 
paste ;  and  when  the  filling  has  cooled  add  to  it  the 
lemon-juice,  the  grated  rind,  and  sugar  to  sweeten.  Beat 
the  mixture  well,  turn  it  into  the  crust,  and  bake  about 
twenty  minutes  in  a  very  quick  oven.  When  done, 
spread  over  the  top  of  the  pie  the  beaten  white  of  egg, 
sweetened  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  sugar  and  flavored  with 
a  little  lemon  extract.  Brown  the  meringue,  and  serve 
the  pie  cold. 

PUMPKIN  PIE. 

Cut  the  pumpkin  into  long  strips,  remove  the  soft  pulp 
and  seeds,  pare  the  strips,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces. 
Place  the  pumpkin  in  a  kettle  with  a  very  little  water, 
cover  the  kettle  tightly,  and  stew  slowly,  stirring  up 
frequently  from  the  bottom  and  adding  a  little  more 
water,  if  the  pumpkin  seems  in  danger  of  becoming  too 
thick,  but  always  remenjjpering  that  the  less  water  is  used 
the  finer  will  be  the  quality  of  the  pies.  It  will  take  at 
least  six  hours  to  stew  a  pumpkin  until  soft  enough  to  use. 
If  the  pumpkin  seems  at  all  watery  when  done,  set  the 
kettle  on  a  hot  paii,  of  the  stove,  and  stir  constantly 


PIES.  403 

uncovered  ;  it  will  soon  dry  sufficiently.  Lift  the  pump- 
kin from  the  kettle  into  a  colander  or  a  rather  coarse 
sieve,  and  pulp  it  through.  It  will  then  be  ready  to  use. 
This  part  of  the  work  should  obviously  be  done  the  day 
before  the  pies  are  to  be  made.  The  quantities  given 
below  will  make  three  good,  deep  pies. 

One  quart  of  stewed  pumpkin. 

Three  pints  of  milk. 

Six  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  and  a-half  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  add  them  to  the  pumpkin,  and 
stir  until  the  mixture  is  creamy ;  then  add  the  salt,  sugar, 
cinnamon  and  ginger.  Stir  thoroughly,  and  when  the 
mass  is  well  mixed  add  the  milk,  a  little  at  a  time. 
Taste  the  mixture,  and  add  more  sugar  and  spice  if 
needed.  Line  three  pie-tins,  divide  the  filling  among 
themr  stirring  it  all  the  time  it  is  being  poured  into  the 
plates  ;  and  bake  half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven.  Do  not 
be  afraid  to  use  the  quantity  of  ginger  given,  for  much  of 
its  strength  is  evaporated  in  the  baking.  This  is  a  very 
reliable  recipe  and  will  produce  most  delicious  pies. 

SQUASH  PIE. 

The  yellow,  hard-shelled  squash  makes  almost  as  good 
pies  as  pumpkin,  and  it  is  often  obtainable  when  pump- 
kin is  not.  Squash  pie  is  made  by  the  preceding  recipe  ; 
but  the  squash  will  stew  sufficiently  in  an  hour  or  even 
a  little  less,  and  care  must  be  taken  that  it  is  very  dry 
before  being  removed  from  the  fire. 


404  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CREAM    PIE. 

For  one  pie,  use, 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  even  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

Two  eggs. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat  the 
yolks  light,  and  add  to  them  a  little  of  the  cold  milk. 
Place  the  corn-starch  in  a  tea-cup,  add  just  enough  of  the 
cold  milk  to  thoroughly  wet  the  starch,  and  stir  until 
smooth.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  over  the  fire  either  in 
a  double  boiler  or  in  a  saucepan  set  in  another  pan  con- 
taining boiling  water.  Put  the  corn-starch  mixture  and 
the  egg  mixture  together,  stir  well,  and  when  the  milk  is 
boiling  add  the  mixture  to  it.  Stir  until  the  liquid 
thickens,  add  the  sugar,  salt  and  butter,  and  cook  three 
or  four  minutes.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  par- 
tially cold  add  sufficient  vanilla  to  flavor.  Line  a  pie- 
tin  with  paste,  pierce  the  paste  in  three  or  four  places 
with  a  steel  fork,  and  bake  without  any  filling  in  a  very 
quick  oven.  The  holes  pierced  in  the  crust  will  prevent 
it  puffing  in  the  center.  When  the  crust  is  done,  which 
should  take  ten  minutes,  remove  it  from  the  oven,  let 
it  cool  a  little,  and  M.  it  has  been  baked  in  a  tin,  slip 
it  out  upon  a  dinner  plate  ;  then  fill  the  crust  with  the 
cream  filling.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff 
froth,  add  to  them  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  a  little 
of  the  flavoring,  and  spread  them  on  top  of  the  cream. 


PIES.  405 

Sprinkle  the  top  lightly  with  cocoanut  and  brown  in  the 
oven.  The  cocoanut  may  be  omitted,  but  it  adds  much 
to  the  flavor  of  the  meringue.  Serve  cold. 

CANNED    PEACH    MERINGUE    PIE. 

One  tea-cupful  of  water. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  peach  juice. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  eggs. 
Canned  peaches. 

Wet  the  corn-starch  with  a  little  of  the  water,  beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  lightly  with  the  sugar,  and  add  them  to 
the  corn-starch.  Place  the  rest  of  the  water  on  the  fire, 
and  when  it  boils  stir  in  the  corn-starch  mixture,  which 
will  thicken  at  once.  Add  the  butter,  salt,  sugar  and 
peach  juice,  cook  two  minutes  and  remove  from  the  fire. 
Line  a  plate  with  paste,  cover  the  bottom  with  a  layer  of 
canned  peaches,  turn  in  the  cooked  mixture,  and  bake. 
When  done,  spread  over  the  top  of  the  pie  the  beaten 
whites  of  the  eggs  sweetened  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  sugar  ; 
and  brown  lightly.  Fresh  peaches  may  be  used  in  the 
same  way,  water  being  substituted  for  the  peach  juice. 

CHOCOLATE   PIE. 

One  coffee-cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Two  table- spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate. 

Three  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 


406  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light,  and  add  to  them  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk.  Heat  the  chocolate  and  the 
rest  of  the  milk  together,  put  in  the  salt  and  sugar,  and 
when  scalding  hot  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Let  the 
mixture  cook  two  minutes,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and 
when  partly  cooled,  add  the  flavoring.  Line  a  pie-plate 
with  crust,  turn  in  the  filling,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  very  light, 
sweeten  with  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and  spread  them 
over  the  pie ;  then  brown  the  egg  slightly,  and  serve 
cold. 

CUSTARD    PIE. 

For  one  thick  pie  allow, 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Milk. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Beat  the  whites  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well  together. 
Stir  the  spice  and  salt  into  the  sugar,  place  the  sugar  and 
eggs  in  a  quart  cup,  and  add  milk  sufficient  to  make  the 
whole  measure  a  pint  and  a-half.  Taste,  and  add  more 
sugar  if  needed.  Line  a  plate  with  crust,  stir  the  mix- 
ture well,  pour  it  in,  and  bake  about  forty-five  minutes  in 
a  moderately  hot  oven.  There  should  not  be  enough 
heat  to  cause  the  custard  to  boil,  for  this  will  make  it 
appear  watery  and  very  uninviting;  the  oven  should,  in 
fact,  be  a  little  more  moderate  than  for  most  pies.  At 
the  end  of  the  time  insert  the  point  of  a  knife  in  the  cus- 


PIES.  4O7 

tard,  and  if  it  comes  out  clear  (not  milky),  the  pie  is 
done.  If  the  spice  is  well  stirred  into  the  sugar,  it  will 
be  distributed  evenly  through  the  milk  and  will  not  ac- 
cumulate in  an  unsightly  manner  on  top  of  the  custard. 
Do  not  cut  the  pie  until  quite  cold. 

CHERRY   PIE. 

The  common  red  or  morella  cherries  are  the  best  for 
pies.  Stone  the  cherries,  line  deep  pie-plates  with  good 
plain  paste,  nearly  fill  them  with  the  cherries,  sprinkle 
four  large  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  over  each  pie,  and 
dredge  lightly  with  flour.  Cover  each  pie  with  an  upper 
crust,  which  should  be  rolled  as  thin  as  possible  ;  make 
a  vent  in  the  center,  and  press  the  edges  lightly  together 
so  the  juices  will  not  escape  during  the  baking.  Serve 
the  pies  the  same  day  they  are  baked,  else  the  under- 
crust  will  become  heavy.  Sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over 
each  pie  just  before  sending  to  table. 

COCOANUT   CUSTARD   PIE. 

Two  eggs. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  prepared  cocoanut. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  eggs  and  sugar  together  until  light ;  then  add 
the  milk,  nutmeg,  cocoanut  and  salt.  Line  a  deep  pie- 
dish  with  crust,  pour  the  mixture  in,  stirring  well,  and 
bake  thirty  minutes.  The  above  quantities  will  make 
one  thick  pie  or  two  rather  thin  ones. 


408  'THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

HUCKLEBERRY    PIE. 

Select  the  pie-tins  that  are  to  be  used,  and  fill  them 
evenly  with  berries,  to  determine  how  many  will  be 
required.  Throw  the  berries  into  a  pan,  look  them  over 
carefully,  remove  all  the  stems,  and  wash  the  berries. 
Drain  off  all  the  water  from  them,  but  do  not  dry  them  in 
a  towel.  Wipe  the  pie-dishes  clean,  dust  a  little  flour  in 
the  bottom  of  each,  line  them  with  paste,  following  care- 
fully the  directions  previously  given.  When  ready  for 
the  berries  drain  them  once  more,  and  sift  flour  over 
them  until  each  berry  becomes  a  little  white  ball,  but 
taking  care  to  leave  no  surplus  flour  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  containing  the  berries.  Allow  a  scanty  cupful  of 
sugar  to  each  pie,  stir  it  well  into  the  fruit,  and  turn  the 
latter  into  the  pie-plates.  Cover  each  pie  with  an  upper 
crust,  and  press  the  edges  well  together,  for  much  of  the 
richness  of  the  berries  will  be  lost  if  the  juice  escapes 
in  baking.  Bake  an  hour,  and  serve  cold,,  with  sugar 
sifted  over  the  top.  Flouring  the  berries  in  this  way, 
while  still  a  little  wet  from  the  washing,  will  make  just 
enough  thickening  to  counteract  the  excessive  amount  of 
juice  these  berries  are  capable  of  giving  off. 

BLACKBERRY    PIE. 

Look  the  berries  carefully  over,  place  them  in  the  pie- 
tin  (which  has  previously  been  fitted  with  an  under-crust), 
add  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  a  table-spoonful  of  water, 
and  place  a  thick  dusting  of  flour  on  the  top.  Cover 
with  an  upper  crust  and  bake  an  hour.  Currants 
mixed  with  blackberries  also  make  a  delicious  pie, 
three  times  as  many  blackberries  being  used  as  cur- 


PIES,  409 

rants.     Sweeten  with  a  cupful  of   sugar,  if  currants  are 
used. 

RHUBARB   PIE   (PIE-PLANl). 

Peel  or  string  the  rhubarb  by  breaking  a  piece  off  each 
stem  end  and  stripping  down  the  thin  skin  that  will  be 
found  clinging  to  the  broken  portion.  Break  the  rhubarb 
into  small  pieces,  and  measure  it  in  a  pie-dish  to  ascer- 
tain the  quantity  needed.  Place  the  pieces  in  a  pan, 
flour  them  until  they  are  quite  white  and  add  a  cupful  of 
sugar  to  each  pie.  Line  a  pie-dish,  put  in  the  rhubarb, 
with  the  sugar  well  stirred  into  it,  cover  with  the  upper- 
crust,  and  bake  an  hour.  Serve  cold,  sprinkling  pow- 
dered sugar  on  top. 

DELICATE    PUFF    PIE. 

The  following  will  make  two  pies  : 

Five  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 
Three-quarters  of  a  cupful  of  butter. 
Vanilla  flavoring. 

Separate  the  whites  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat  the 
yolks  and  sugar  together  until  they  form  a  cream,  beat 
the  butter  until  it  also  is  a  creamy  froth,  and  quickly  mix 
the  butter  in  with  the  yolks  and  sugar,  stirring  well  and 
adding  flavoring  to  taste.  Have  pie-plates  ready  lined 
with  paste,  turn  in  the  mixture,  and  bake.  The  pies  will 
rise  very  light.  When  they  are  done  have  ready  the 
beaten  whites  of  the  eggs,  add  to  them  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar  and  a  few  drops  of  the  flavoring,  and  spread 
them  over  the  top  of  the  pies  ;  then  return  the  pies  to  the 
oven  and  brown  delicately.  This  pie  should  be  cut  while 


410  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

hot  and  distributed  on  the  serving  plates,  but  it  is  not  to 
be  eaten  until  cold.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  it  will  fall  if 
allowed  to  cool  before  being  cut. 

MINCE   MEAT. 

Two  pounds  of  lean  beef. 

One  pound  of  beef  suet. 

Five  pounds  of  apples. 

Two  pounds  of  layer  raisins. 

Two  pounds  of  Sultana  raisins. 

One-half  pound  of  candied  lemon  peel. 

Two  pounds  of  currants. 

Three-quarters  pound  of  citron. 

Two  and  a-half  pounds  of  sugar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  salt. 

One-half  ounce  of  cinnamon. 

One-quarter  ounce  of  mace. 

One-quarter  ounce  of  cloves. 

One-quarter  ounce  of  allspice. 

Two  nutmegs,  grated. 

Two  oranges,  juice  and  rind. 

Two  lemons,  juice  and  rind. 

One  pint  of  sherry. 

One  pint  of  brandy. 

One  quart  of  cider. 

Free  the  beef  of  fat  and  skin,  cover  it  with  boiling 
water  and  simmer  gently  until  tender.  Let  the  meat  cool 
in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled,  and  when  perfectly 
cold  chop  it  fine,  but  not  to  a  powder.  Shred  the  suet 
and  chop  it  fine ;  pare,  core  and  chop  the  apples 
rather  coarsely.  The  apples  should  be  of  a  fine  flavor 
and  tart.  Wash  and  stone  the  layer  raisins ;  wash  and 
pick  over  the  Sultanas.  Shred  the  citron  and  the  can 
died  lemon  peel ;  wash  the  currants  well,  and  grate  the 


PIES.  411 

rind  from  the  oranges  and  lemons.  Mix  all  the  dry  in- 
gredients with  the  meat  and  suet,  and  add  the  juice  and 
gratings  from  the  lemons  and  oranges.  Stir  all  well 
together,  pack  the  mass  in  a  stone  jar,  pour  over  it  the 
brandy,  wine  and  cider,  cover  closely,  and  stand  the  jar 
in  a  cool  place. 

Mince  meat  made  in  this  way  will  keep  all  winter. 
The  above  ingredients  will  make  a  large  quantity.  If 
there  is  an  objection  to  brandy,  use  a  pint  and  a-half 
more  of  cider  instead.  Mince  meat  improves  with  keep- 
ing, and  it  should  be  made  at  least  a  fortnight  before  it  is 
to  be  used.  Bake  the  pies  an  hour.  If  the  meat  be- 
comes dry  before  it  is  all  used,  add  more  cider  or  wine. 

INEXPENSIVE    MINCE    MEAT. 

Four  pounds  of  beef. 
Three  quarts  of  chopped  apples. 
One  quart  of  stoned  raisins. 
One  quart  of  English  currants. 
One  quart  of  molasses 
One  pint  of  suet. 
Three  pints  of  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  salt. 
One-half  cupful  of  cinnamon. 
One  table-spoonful  of  cloves. 
Two  tr.ble-spoonfuls  of  allspice. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  mace. 
Three  nutmegs,  grated. 
Three  quarts  of  cider. 
One-quarter  pound  of  citron. 

Boil  and  chop  the  beef  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Mix  together  all  the  ingredients,  except  the  cider,  mixing 
with  the  hands.  When  the  whole  is  thoroughly  stirred 
add  the  cider.  Let  the  mince  meat  stand  over  night ; 


4 1 2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

in  the  morning  place  it  in  a  porcelain  kettle,  heat  slowly 
to  the  boiling  point,  and  simmer  an  hour.  Then  turn 
it  into  a  stone  jar  and  set  it  in  a  cool,  dry  place.  If  de- 
sired, wine  and  brandy  may  now  be  stirred  in,  or  they  may 
be  added  when  the  pies  are  made ;  but  the  meat  will  be 
good  without  either.  This  mince  meat  will  keep  three 
months  in  ordinary  jars,  even  if  there  is  no  wine  or 
brandy  used. 

Mince  pies  are  always  better  baked  several  days  before 
they  are  to  be  served.  Heat  them,  and  serve. 

MOCK   MINCE   MEAT. 

Six  soda  crackers,  rolled  fine. 

Two  cupfuls  of  cold  water. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  sour  cider. 

One  and  one-half  cupful  of  melted  butter. 

One  cupful  of  raisins,  seeded  and  chopped. 

One  cupful  of  raisins,  unseeded. 

One  cupful  of  currants. 

Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  allspice 

One  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  black  pepper. 

One  wine-glassful  of  brandy. 

Mix  all  well  together,  adding  the  wetting  last — the 
water,  molasses,  cider,  brandy  and  eggs.  This  makes  a 
good  mince  meat  for  those  who  find  the  ordinary  variety 
too  rich. 


PUDDINGS. 

"  The  proof  of  the  pudding  lies  in  the  eating." 

IN  arranging  for  a  dinner  it  is  wise  to  always  plan  for  a 
dessert.  Many  housekeepers  look  upon  this  course  in 
the  light  of  a  luxury,  but  in  that  they  surely  err.  The 
majority  of  people,  and  more  especially  the  young,  should 
eat  plenty  of  food  containing  starch  and  sugar.  Even  for 
the  poor  a  simple  dessert  is  an  economy,  for  when  none 
is  provided,  a  greater  quantity  of  meat  and  vegetables 
must  be  eaten  to  satisfy  hunger.  When  the  meal  is  a 
very  substantial  one,  a  light  dessert  is  most  appropriate, 
but  when  the  dinner  is  light,  and  particularly  in  case  cold 
meat  is  served,  the  dessert  should  be  hearty  and  served 
hot. 

Puddings  made  of  milk  and  eggs,  in  combination  with 
rice,  tapioca,  sago  or  corn-starch,  are  the  cheapest  and 
most  wholesome,  and  are  highly  appetizing  to  most 
tastes  when  nicely  prepared  and  well  cooked.  In  many 
of  the  pudding  recipes  presented  in  the  following  pages, 
the  number  of  persons  the  given  quantity  will  serve  is 
specified.  These  calculations  are  based  on  the  premise 
that  the  dessert  is  not  intended  to  form  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  dinner,  and  hence  that  only  a  moderate  por- 
tion need  be  allotted  to  each  person  at  table.  It  would 

4*3  . 


414  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

be  well  if  housewives  would  discourage  an  undue  ambition 
on  the  part  of  the  male  members  of  the  family  when 
dessert  is  served ;  and  thus  inaugurate  a  reform  that 
is  greatly  needed  in  many  households.  A  number  of  des- 
serts are  here  given  that  may  be  prepared  the  day  before 
they  are  needed,  and  these  will  be  especially  acceptable 
to  the  busy  housekeeper  who  has  to  prepare  the  Sunday 
dessert  on  Saturday. 

CHOCOLATE    BLANC-MANGE. 

The  following  quantity  is  sufficient  for  six  persons,  for 
this  dessert  is  quite  rich. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  chocolate  (grated). 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Grate  the  chocolate,  stir  it  into  the  milk,  and  place  the 
latter  in  a  double  boiler,  or  in  a  pail  set  in  a  kettle  of  hot 
water.  Cover  tightly  and  boil  one  hour,  stirring  often  to 
dislodge  the  chocolate  as  it  rises  to  the  surface  of  the 
milk.  Turn  the  entire  box  of  gelatine  out  upon  a  plate, 
and  divide  it  very  accurately  in  half.  This  is  necessary, 
as  gelatine  packs  very  solidly,  and  it  cannot  be  properly 
measured  while  in  the  box.  Place  the  gelatine  in  the 
water  to  melt,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  on  the  range 
for  fifteen  minutes.  When  the  milk  and  chocolate  have 
boiled  an  hour,  add  the  dissolved  gelatine  and  the  sugar, 
and  cook  five  minutes  longer,  stirring  two  or  three  times. 
Then  remove  the  mixture  from  the  fire,  and  strain 


PUDDINGS. 

it  through  a  fine  wire  sieve  into  an  earthern  mold  that 
has  been  wet  with  cold  water ;  and  when  nearly  cold,  add 
the  vanilla.  An  oily  substance  will  rise  to  the  top,  and 
this  must  be  carefully  skimmed  off  two  or  three  times 
during  the  next  hour.  When  the  oil  has  ceased  to  rise, 
set  the  pudding  in  a  cool  place  over  night ;  if  it  is  sum- 
mer, set  the  dish  in  the  ice-chest.  When  ready  to  serve, 
turn  the  blanc-mange  out  on  a  small  platter,  and  send  to 
table  with  a 

MILK    SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  the  ingredients,  stirring  well  to  dissolve  the  sugar. 

This  pudding  maybe  made  in  the  morning  when  dinner 
is  served  at  night,  but  to  insure  its  being  firm  by  dinner 
time,  set  it  at  once  on  the  ice.  Gelatine  hardens  quite 
slowly,  requiring  six  or  eight  hours  to  become  properly 
firm. 

GELATINE    PUDDING. 

The  quantity  given  below  will  make  enough  for  five 
persons. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 
One-half  pint  of  cold  water 
One-half  pint  of  boiling  water. 
One  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  small  lemons. 
Two  eggs  (whites). 

Place  the  gelatine  in  a  quart  cup,  pour  over  it  the  cold 
water,  and  after  it  has  stood  five  minutes,  add  the  boiling 


4 1 6  7^^  />^  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

water.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  setting  it  in  a 
warm  place.  If  the  gelatine  is  still  undissolved,  let  it 
stand  on  the  back  of  the  range  for  ten  minutes  after  add- 
ing the  hot  water.  Remove  from  the  range,  add  the 
sugar,  and  when  the  mixture  is  lukewarm,  add  the  juice 
of  the  lemons ;  no  pains  need  be  taken  to  keep  out  the 
seeds,  for  all  has  to  be  strained.  If  the  mixture  in  the 
cup  does  not  now  measure  a  pint  and  a-half,  add  enough 
cold  water  to  bring  it  to  that  measurement :  then  strain 
through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  large  pitcher  or  earthernware 
bowl.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
stir  them  into  the  gelatine,  beating  well.  The  pitcher 
will  be  found  the  most  convenient  receptacle  in  which  to 
beat  the  pudding.  Pour  the  whole  into  a  pretty  glass 
serving  dish,  and  set  it  in  the  ice-chest  to  remain  over 
night.  The  egg  will  rise  and  settle  evenly  upon  the  top  of 
the  pudding. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  a  moment,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  milk  or  water  to  them,  and  set  them  in  a 
cool  place  to  be  used  the  next  day  in  making  the 

CUSTARD   SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the  milk,  and  add  to 
it  the  beaten  yolks.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a 
double  boiler  to  heat,  and  when  scalding  stir  in  the  mix- 
ture of  egg  and  corn-starch.  Let  the  whole  boil  only 


PUDDINGS.  417 

about  one  minute  after  it  thickens,  and  add  the  sugar  and 
salt.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  the  sauce  is  cold 
put  in  the  vanilla,  and  set  on  the  ice  until  needed.  If 
the  eggs  are  large,  the  corn-starch  will  not  be  needed  ;  or 
three  yolks  may  be  used  for  the  custard,  omitting  the 
corn-starch  in  this  case.  In  serving,  pour  a  portion  of 
the  sauce  around  the  pudding  as  it  is  placed  on  each 
dessert  plate,  but  do  not  pour  it  on  top. 

This  dessert  is  easily  and  quickly  made,  the  pud- 
ding itself  really  not  requiring  fire  if  hot  water  is  at 
hand. 

CHOCOLATE  CORN-STARCH. 

This  pudding  is  to  be  eaten  cold,  and  the  following 
quantities  will  suffice  for  six  persons. 

One  pint  of  milk. 
One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Two  eggs  (yolks). 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  add  to  them  a  little  of 
the  milk  ;  then  wet  the  corn-starch  with  a  small  quantity 
of  the  milk,  and  stir  the  two  mixtures  together.  Place 
the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  milk-boiler,  and 
when  boiling,  stir  in  the  corn-starch,  eggs,  etc.  Let  the 
whole  cook  five  minutes,  add  the  salt,  sugar  and  butter, 
and  remove  from  the  fire  ;  pour  the  pudding  into  a  pud- 
ding dish,  and  when  partly  cooled,  add  the  flavoring,  stir- 
ring it  in  well. 

• 

27 


418  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

FOR    THE    CHOCOLATE. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
One  table  spoonful  of  vanilla. 
Two  eggs  (whites). 

Place  the  milk  and  chocolate  together  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan set  in  another  containing  hot  water,  and  cook  until 
the  chocolate  is  smooth  and  thick — generally  about  five 
minutes — stirring  all  the  time.  Add  the  sugar,  remove 
from  the  fire,  stir  until  cooled  and  put  in  the  vanilla. 
Spread  the  chocolate  mixture  carefully,  a  spoonful  at  a 
time,  over  the  corn-starch  in  the  dish.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar  and  two 
or  three  drops  of  vanilla,  spread  this  icing  on  top  of  the 
chocolate,  and  brown  delicately  in  the  oven. 

This  pudding  should  be  in  three  layers  when  finished, 
first  the  corn-starch,  then  the  chocolate,  and  then  the 
browned  whites  of  the  eggs,  which  are  called  the 
meringue.  It  does  not  require  sauce,  and  will  be  found 
a  very  dainty  dessert  by  those  who  are  fond  of  chocolate. 

ORANGE    PUDDING. 

This  pudding  is  to  be  served  cold  without  sauce,  and 
the  following  ingredients  are  sufficient  for  six  persons. 

Three  oranges. 

One-half  a  lemon  (juice). 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 


PUDDINGS.  419 

Peel  the  oranges,  removing  all  the  tough  white  skin  ; 
and  cut  them  into  pieces  half  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  tak- 
ing out  the  tough  portion  in  the  center.  Place  the 
oranges  in  a  pudding-dish,  squeeze  the  lemon-juice  over 
them,  add  half  a  cupful  of  the  sugar,  stir  up,  and  let  the 
whole  stand  while  the  rest  of  the  pudding  is  being  pre- 
pared. Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stir  in  two  tea-spoon- 
fuls of  milk,  add  the  same  quantity  of  milk  to  the 
corn-starch,  and  beat  these  two  mixtures  together.  Heat 
the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a  milk-boiler,  and  when  boiling, 
add  the  eggs,  corn-starch,  etc.  Cook  five  minutes,  add 
the  salt  and  the  rest  of  the  sugar,  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  lay  the  mixture  a  spoonful  at  a  time  on  top  of  the 
oranges  in  the  dish.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff, 
add  to  them  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  the  icing 
on  top  of  the  pudding,  and  brown  it  delicately  in  the 
oven.  This  pudding  should  not  be  made  over  night,  as 
the  oranges  would  in  that  time  give  off  too  much  of  their 
juice. 

BAKED    LEMON    PUDDING. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
Two  eggs. 

One  lemon  (juice,  and  half  the  rind). 
One  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  bread-crumbs  in  the  milk  for  half  an  hour. 
Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  beaten 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  stir  well,  and  put  in  the  bread  and 
milk,  the  lemon-juice  and  half  the  grated  rind.  Butter  a 
pudding-dish,  turn  in  the  mixture,  and  bake  slowly  for 


420  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

twenty  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  stiff,  add  to  them  one 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  them  on  top  of  the  baked 
pudding,  and  brown  the  surface  delicately.  Serve  cold 
without  sauce. 

ESTELLA    PUDDING. 

The  following  is  sufficient  for  eight  persons,  being 
served  hot. 

Three  eggs. 

Two  and  one-half  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Three-quarters  cupful  of  sweet  milk. 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking  powder. 

One-half  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  stir  thoroughly,  and  put  in  the  milk  and  salt. 
Seed  the  raisins,  and  chop  them  coarsely,  cutting  each 
raisin  in  only  about  four  pieces.  Scatter  the  baking- 
powder  on  top  of  the  mixture,  add  a  little  flour,  stirring  it 
in  well,  and  then  add  enough  more  flour  to  make  a  rather 
thick  batter;  lastly  stir  in  the  raisins.  Butter  a  tin  basin 
or  a  pudding-mold,  turn  in  the  pudding,  set  the  vessel  in 
a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  hot  water,  and  steam 
forty-five  minutes.  Serve  with  a  sauce  made  of  one  pint 
of  milk,  sweetened  to  taste  and  flavored  with  vanilla. 

TAPIOCA    PUDDING. 

This  is  to  be  eaten  hot  without  sauce.  For  five  per- 
sons allow 


PUDDINGS.  42 1 

One  egg.  • 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  pearl  tapioca. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

( hie-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-quarter  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Wash  the  tapioca,  and  soak  it  over  night  in  enough 
water  to  cover  it.  In  the  morning  add  the  milk,  and 
place  the  tapioca  on  the  back  of  the  range  to  soak  one 
hour,  but  do  not  let  the  milk  boil :  then  add  the  beaten 
egg  and  the  sugar,  spice,  salt  and  butter.  Bake  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

SIMPLE   CORN-STARCH     BLANC-MANGE. 

This  is  an  especially  wholesome  dessert  for  little  chil- 
dren. To  make  enough  for  five  persons,  allow 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk  ;  then 
heat  the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a  milk-boiler,  and  when  it  is 
boiling,  add  the  corn-starch.  Cook  eight  or  ten  minutes, 
and  then  put  in  the  salt,  and  sugar.  Remove  from  the 
fire,  and  when  partly  cooled,  add  the  vanilla.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  a  pudding-dish,  that  has  been  previously  wet 
with  cold  water,  and  set  it  away  in  a  cold  place.  When 
cold  and  firm,  turn  it  out  of  the  dish,  and  serve  with  it  a 
cream  sauce  or  a 


422  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK'. 

CHOCOLATE     SAUCE. 

One-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Boil  the  milk  and  chocolate  together  until  they  form  a 
smooth  paste,  them  add  the  sugar,  and  lastly  the  vanilla 
when  the  whole  has  cooled.  This  pudding  is  also  deli- 
cious served  alone  with  strawberries  and  sugar. 

COCOANUT    PUDDING. 

The  quantity  given  below  will  serve  five  persons.  The 
pudding  is  eaten  hot,  without  sauce 

One-half  cupful  of  cocoanut. 

One-half  cupful  of  bread-crumbs. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Soak  the  bread  and  cocoanut  in  the  milk  for  three 
hours  ;  then  mash  the  bread  fine,  and  add  the  sugar,  salt 
and  melted  butter.  Beat  the  white  and  yolks  of  the  egg 
separately,  and  add  first  the  yolk  and  then  the  white, 
stirring  well.  Bake  half  an  hour. 

BOILED    RICE    PUDDING. 

This  is  a  very  creamy  pudding  and  is  served  cold. 
For  five  persons  allow  as  follows : 

One  and  one-half  tea-cupfuls  of  boiled  rice. 
Two-thirds  of  a  tea-cupful  of  raisins. 


PUDDINGS.  423 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  to  the 
yolks  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk,  and  place  the  rest 
of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler.  Wash  and 
stone  the  raisins  (or  they  may  be  left  unseeded  if 
desired,)  put  them  in  the  milk,  and  cook  them  until  soft 
and  tender — usually  fifteen  minutes.  Add  the  rice,  cook 
five  minutes  longer,  and  then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
and  the  salt,  sugar  and  spice.  Stir  well,  cook  two  or 
three  minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  pour  the  pud- 
ding into  the  serving  dish.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
light,  add  to  them  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  the 
froth  on  top  of  the  pudding,  and  brown  delicately  in  the 
oven. 

BAKED   APPLE    PUDDING. 

This  is  served  cold  without  sauce.  The  following 
quantity  will  provide  for  six  persons.  The  apples 
should  be  quite  tart. 

Six  good-sized  apples. 

Two  eggs. 

One  pint  of  milk; 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Twelve  tea-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  and  one-half  tea-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon. 

One  and  one-half  tea-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Pare  the   apples,  carefully  extract  the  cores  from  the 


424  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

stem-end,  and  place  in  each  cavity  thus  made  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  cin- 
namon and  the  same  of  butter,  putting  the  butter  on  the 
top.  Set  the  apples  in  a  baking-dish,  add  the  water,  and 
bake  until  tender.  Do  not  bake  them  until  -they  break, 
as  that  would  spoil  the  attractiveness  of  the  pudding. 
While  the  apples  are  baking,  prepare  the  rest  of  the  pud- 
ding. Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add  to 
the  yolks  a  table-spoonful  of  the  cold  milk,  place  the  rest 
of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when  it 
boils,  add  the  yolks.  Cook  only  a  minute  after  the  milk 
boils  again,  then  add  the  salt,  and  sugar  to  taste.  Remove 
from  the  fire,  and  when  nearly  cold,  add  the  vanilla.  As 
soon  as  the  apples  are  done,  pour  this  custard  around 
them.  Should  there,  seem  to  be  an  excess  of  juice  from 
baking  the  apples,  drain  off  nearly  all  of  it  before  adding 
the  custard.  If  left  in  the  dish  it  will  make  the  custard 
too  thin.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  one 
table-spoonful  of  sugar,  place  a  table-spoonful  of  the  white 
on  top  of  each  apple,  return  to  the  oven,  and  brown 
lightly. 

BAKED    INDIAN     PUDDING 

One  cupful  of  Indian  meal. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One-half  cupful  of  raisins. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  quart  of  milk. 
One  egg. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  ginger. 

Place  the  milk  in  a  double-boiler,  and   when  scalding 
hot,  add  the  meal,  stirring  constantly  until  there  are  no 


PUDDINGS.  425 

lumps.  Cook  twenty  minutes,  and  turn  into  a  pudding- 
dish;  then  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  except  the  egg. 
Stir  well,  and  when  cooled,  add  the  beaten  egg.  Bake 
an  hour  in  a  rather  slow  oven,  and  serve  hot. 

SUET   PUDDING. 

The  following  recipe  makes  a  pudding  large  enough 
for  ten  persons;  one-half  will  usually  be  sufficient  for 
one  dessert.  The  portion  left  over  will  be  equally  good 
when  warmed  again.  It  should  be  steamed  for  warming 
over. 

One  cupful  of  chopped  suet. 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 

One  cupful  of  milk  (preferably  sour). 

Three  cupf uls  of  sifted  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One-half  a  nutmeg  (grated). 

Chop  the  suet  fine,  and  add  to  it  the  spice  and  salt. 
Warm  the  molasses,  add  to  it  the  soda,  and  when  the  lat- 
ter is  dissolved,  turn  the  molasses  over  the  dry  mixture, 
stir  quickly,  and  put  in  the  milk.  Add  the  flour  slowly  as 
it  may  not  all  be  needed  ;  for  flour  varies  so  much  that  it 
is  always  difficult  to  apportion  it  in  any  recipe.  The 
pudding  should  not  be  too  thick  ;  when  the  track  of  the 
mixing  spoon,  when  turned  quickly  round  in  the  batter, 
disappears  slowly,  the  batter  is  generally  thick  enough. 
Butter  a  tin  basin  or  a  pudding-mold,  pour  the  pudding 
in.  set  the  whole  in  a  steamer,  over  a  kettle  of  boiling 


426  THE  PA  Tl^ERN  COOK-BOOA'. 

water,  and  steam  for  three  hours.     Serve  with  the  follow- 
ing 

SNOW  SAUCE. 

One  small  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  egg. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  hot  water. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  yolk  of 
the  egg,  and  stir  well.  Set  the  bowl  containing  the  sauce 
over  the  mouth  of  the  tea-kettle,  or  stand  it  in  a  basin 
of  hot  water ;  add  one  table-spoonful  of  the  hot  water,  stir 
well,  add  another  portion  of  the  hot  water,  and  finally 
the  third  table-spoonful,  allowing  about  a  minute  to 
elapse  between  these  additions.  If  the  sugar  is  not  by  this 
time  entirely  dissolved,  leave  the  bowl  in  the  steam  of  the 
kettle  or  in  the  basin  until  the  sauce  is  like  a  golden 
syrup.  Then  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  pour  it  into  the 
sauce  boat.  Beat  the  white  of  the  egg  stiff,  lay  it  on  top 
of  the  sauce,  and  serve.  The  white  should  be  stirred  in 
after  the  sauce  is  placed  upon  the  table.  This  recipe  is 
infallible. 

LEMON    PUDDING. 

This  pudding  is  eaten  cold,  without  sauce.  For  a  fam- 
ily of  six  allow 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  lemons  (juice  of  both,  and  rind  of  one). 


PUDDINGS.  427 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the  milk,  place  the 
rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  milk  boiler,  and  when  it 
boils,  add  the  corn-starch.  After  this  has  boiled  five  min- 
utes, add  the  butter,  remove  the  corn-starch  from  the  -fire, 
and  set  it  away  to  cool. .  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light, 
stir  in  the  sugar,  mix  very  thoroughly,  and  add  the  lemon- 
juice  and  the  grated  rind.  Beat  this  mixture  to  a  stiff 
cream,  and  gradually  slir  it  into  the  corn-starch,  which 
should  be  quite  cool  by  this  time.  Stir  well,  and  when 
perfectly  well  mixed,  pour  the  pudding  into  a  buttered 
pudding-dish,  and  bake  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  to  them  one  table-spoonful  of 
sugar,  spread  them  on  top  of  the  pudding,  and  brown 
nicely. 

RICE    PUDDING    WITH    LEMON. 

One  pint  of  cooked  rice. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  a  table-spoonful  of  the  milk, 
place  the  rice  and  the  rest  of  the  milk  together  in  a 
double-boiler,  and  boil  them  ten  minutes  ;  then  add  the 
corn-starch,  cook  five  minutes  more,  and  stir  in  the  rest  of 
the  ingredients,  adding  only  half  the  sugar ;  then  turn  the 
whole  into  a  pudding-dish.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
stiff,  add  the  other  half  of  the  sugar,  spread  the 
egg  on  top  of  the  pudding,  and  brown  nicely.  Serve 
with  a 


428  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON    SAUCE. 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  large  lemon,  (juice  and  half  the  grated  rind). 

Beat  the  yolks  well,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  until 
creamy ;  then  add  the  juice  of  the  lemon  and  the  grated 
rind,  stir  thoroughly,  and  serve.  Oranges  may  be  used 
in  place  of  the  lemons,  and  one  orange  with  half  a  lemon 
will  also  make  a  pleasing  combination.  This  forms  a 
particularly  pretty  dessert,  the  pudding  being  very  white 
and  the  sauce  a  golden  yellow. 

CREAM    TAPIOCA    PUDDING. 

The  following  recipe  will  make  enough  for  seven  per- 
sons. The  pudding  is  a  most  satisfactory  one  and  is  to 
be  eaten  cold  without  sauce. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  pearl  tapioca. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  prepared  cocoanut. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Four  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  tapioca  over  night  in  enough  water  or  milk  to 
cover  it.  In  the  morning  place  it  in  a  milk  boiler  with 
the  quart  of  milk,  and  boil  it  half  an  hour.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  sugar  and  the  cocoanut  well 
together,  add  this  mixture  to  the  milk,  and  boil  ten  min- 
utes longer ;  then  put  in  the  salt,  and  pour  the  whole  into 
a  pudding-dish.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  to 
them  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  them  on  top  of  the 


PUDDINGS. 


429 


pudding,  sprinkle  a  thin  layer   of  cocoanut  over  the  top 
of  the  egg,  and  brown  delicately  in  the  oven. 

BAKED    BATTER     PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  flour 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Stir  the  flour  into  the  milk,  beat  well,  and  when 
smooth,  add  the  beaten  eggs  and  the  salt.  Butter  a  pud- 
ding-dish, pour  in  the  batter,  bake  one  hour  in  a  rather 
hot  oven,  and  serve  immediately  with 

HARD   SAUCE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Flavoring  to  suit. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  add  the 
sugar.  The  flavoring  may  be  of  any  preferred  variety. 
If  wine  is  chosen,  use  three  table-spoonfuls  of  it,  beat- 
ing it  in  gradually.  If  lemon  or  vanilla  extract  is 
preferred  add  a  scanty  tea-spoonful ;  or  the  rind  and  juice 
of  a  fresh  lemon  may  be  used.  As  soon  as  the  sauce  is 
finished  heap  it  lightly  and  roughly  on  the  dish  in  which 
it  is  to  be  served,  and  set  it  in  the  ice  chest  until  needed. 
The  pudding  is  sometimes  spread  with  butter  by  each 
person  at  table  individually  and  eaten  with  lemon-juice 
and  sugar  instead  of  a  sauce. 

CAKE   CREAM    PUDDING. 

Three  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 


430  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  water 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Stir  the  baking-powder  into  the  flour;  then  beat  the 
eggs  light,  add  to  them  first  the  water  and  sugar  and  then 
the  flour,  and  bake  on  two  buttered  pie-tins.  When  the 
cakes  are  done  split  each  with  a  fork,  and  place  inside  it 
the  following  cream. 

CREAM. 

One  pint  of  sweet  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  butter. 
Three-quarters  cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch 

Wet  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the  milk,  add  the  but- 
ter to  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and  place  the  latter  in  the 
milk  boiler  to  heat ;  and  when  the  milk  boils,  stir  in  the 
corn-starch.  Cook  five  minutes,  stirring  frequently ;  then 
add  the  sugar  and  salt,  and  as  soon  as  these  are  dissolved 
remove  the  cream  from  the  fire.  When  nearly  cold  add 
the  flavoring,  and  use.  This  dessert  is  delicious  served 
with  strawberries. 

BLACKBERRY    PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  molasses. 

One  dessert-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  quart  of  flour. 

One  quart  of  blackberries. 

Warm  the  molasses,  dissolve  the  soda  in  it,  and  add  the 
flour  first  and  then  the  berries.  Butter  a  tin  basin  or  a 


PUDDINGS.  43 1 

pudding-mould,  pour  the  pudding  in,  set  it  in  a  steamer 
over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  steam  one  hour.  Serve 
with  hard  sauce.  This  pudding  may  be  baked,  if  more 
convenient,  but  it  is  much  more  satisfactory  when 
steamed  as  above. 

SIMPLE    FRUIT    PUDDING. 

Stew  currants  or  any  of  the  small  fruits  or  berries, 
either  fresh  or  dried,  with  sugar  to  season.  Cut  bakers' 
bread  into  thin  slices,  and  remove  the  crusts  ;  then  place 
a  layer  of  bread  in  a  pudding-dish,  cover  it  rather 
thickly  with  the  stewed  fruit,  add  another  layer  of  bread 
and  fruit,  and  so  continue  until  all  the  latter  has  been 
used,  leaving  an  extra  thick  layer  of  fruit  on  the  top. 
Lay  a  plate  on  top  of  the  pudding,  and  when  the  fruit  is 
cool,  set  the  whole  upon  the  ice.  Serve  thoroughly  cold 
with  cream  and  sugar. 

APPLE  SNOW. 

Six  large  apples. 

Two  tea-cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  and  a-half  lemon  (juice  of  both  and  rind  of  one). 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Four  eggs. 

Separate  the  whites  from  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat  the 
yolks  well,  and  add  to  them  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
milk.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double- 
boiler,  and  when  it  boils,  add  the  beaten  yolks.  Let  it 
boil  about  a  minute,  add  a  tea-cupful  of  the  sugar  and  the 
salt,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  cooled,  pour  the 
custard  into  a  glass  serving-dish.  Bake  the  apples  quite 


432  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

whole  in  a  covered  dish,  adding  a  little  water  to  prevent 
burning.  When  tender  enough  to  be  pierced  with  a 
straw,  take  them  out  of  the  oven,  remove  the  skins,  and 
scrape  out  the  pulp,  being  careful  to  avoid  any  pieces  of 
the  cores.  Mix  into  this  pulp  the  remaining  sugar,  the 
lemon-juice  and  the  grated  rind  of  one  lemon.  Beat  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  the  cold  pulp 
very  gradually,  beating  until  the  whole  is  white  and  fine. 
Pile  this  snow  upon  the  custard,  set  in  a  very  cold  place, 
and  serve  when  thoroughly  cold. 

CURATE    PUDDING.       (Hot.} 

Three  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 
One  cupful  of  flour. 
Two-thirds  cupful  of  butter. 
Two-thirds  cupful  of  sugar. 

Warm  the  butter,  and  beat  it  to  a  cream ;  then  grad- 
ually add  the  flour  and  sugar,  and  beat  well  until  the 
whole  is  perfectly  smooth.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light,  and 
add  them  and  the  vanilla,  stirring  all  well.  Butter  small 
cups  or  tins,  fill  them  a  little  more  than  half  full  of  the 
mixture,  and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven  for  about  half  an  hour. 
When  done,  turn  the  puddings  out  upon  the  serving-dish, 
and  pour  around  them  the  following  sauce. 

WINE    SAUCE,   NO.   I. 

One  and  one-half  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry  wine. 

Hot  water. 


PUDDINGS,  433 

Pour  boiling  water  into  a  small  earthenware  bowl,  let  it 
stand  one  minute,  pour  it  out,  and  place  the  butter  in  the 
hot  bowl ;  this  will  warm  the  butter  sufficiently.  Beat 
the  butter  until  soft,  add  the  flour,  and  beat  again  until 
a  smooth,  creamy  paste  is  formed.  Gradually  add  boil- 
ing water,  stirring  all  the  time,  until  the  whole  is  the 
thickness  of  rich  cream.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  stew- 
pan,  stir  well,  and  cook  three  minutes,  adding  a  little 
more  water  if  the  sauce  is  too  thick.  When  done,  add 
the  salt,  sugar  and  wine,  and  serve.  Taste  the  sauce 
before  serving,  and  add  more  sugar,  wine  or  butter  if  not 
sufficiently  well  seasoned. 

FARINA    PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Three  eggs. 

One  lemon  (half  the  juice  and  all  the  rind). 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  farina. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One-eighth  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Heat  the  milk  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when  boiling, 
add  the  farina,  and  boil  half  an  hour.  Just  before  remov- 
ing it  from  the  fire,  put  in  the  butter,  stir  it  well,  and 
when  it  has  melted,  turn  the  mixture  into  a  pudding-dish. 
When  cooled,  add  the  sugar  and  vanilla,  the  grated  rind 
of  the  lemon,  the  juice  and  the  nutmeg.  Separate  the 
yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs,  beat  them  thoroughly,  and 
add  first  the  yolks,  stirring  them  well  into  the  pudding, 
and  then  the  beaten  whites,  stirring  them  in  only  enough 
28 


434  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

to  mix  them  well.  Bake  the  pudding  half  an  hour  in  a 
quick  oven.  Serve  with  the  wine  sauce  of  the  preceding 
recipe  or  with  the  following. 

WINE    SAUCE,    NO.     2. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 
Two  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry  wine. 
A  grating  of  nutmeg. 

Beat  the  butter  until  creamy,  and  gradually  add  the 
sugar,  stirring  all  the  time  ;  when  all  the  sugar  has  been 
used,  add  the  wine  by  spoonfuls,  still  stirring.  Beat  the 
mixture  until  it  becomes  a  smooth,  light  froth,  set  the  bowl 
in  a  basin  of  hot  water,  and  stir  for  two  minutes.  Fill 
the  sauce-boat  with  boiling  water  to  heat  it,  and  when  the 
sauce  has  cooked  sufficiently,  empty  the  boat,  pour  in  the 
sauce,  grate  a  bit  of  nutmeg  on  the  top,  and  serve  hot. 

GRAHAM    PUDDING. 

One  cupful  of  Graham  flour. 
One  cupful  of  wheat  flour. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  cupful  of  sweet  milk. 
One  egg. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  cupful  of  raisins. 

Warm  the  molasses,  add  the  soda  to  it,  and  stir  in  the 
two  kinds  of  flour  well  sifted  together  ;  then  gradually 
add  the  milk,  then  the  egg  well  beaten,  and  lastly  the 
stoned  raisins.  Place  the  mixture  in  a  buttered  basin  or 
in  a  pudding-mould,  set  it  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of 
hot  water,  and  steam  two  hours.  Serve  with  the  following 


PUDDINGS.  '  435 

EGG    SAUCE. 

One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
Two  eggs. 
Flavoring. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  add  the  sugar, 
beating  well,  and  lastly  stir  in  the  beaten  eggs,  and  any 
desired  flavoring. 

STRAWBERRY    PUFF    PUDDING. 

This  pudding  is  to  be  served  hot.  For  six  persons 
allow 

One  pint  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  quart  of  strawberries. 

Sweet  milk. 

Sugar. 

Stir  the  powder  into  the  flour,  and  add  milk,  stirring 
all  the  time  until  a  rather  thick  batter  is  formed.  Have 
ready  six  well  greased  tea-cups,  the  hulled  strawberries 
and  a  cupful  of  sugar.  Put  a  spoonful  of  the  batter  in  a 
cup,  then  a  thick  layer  of  berries,  next  two  tea-spoon- 
fuls of  sugar  upon  the  berries  and  finally  another  thin 
layer  of  the  batter.  Repeat  this  until  all  the  batter  has 
been  used  when  the  cups  should  not  be  more  than  two- 
thirds  full.  Set  them  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water,  and  steam  half  an  hour.  There  should  be  no 
delay  in  serving  as  soon  as  done,  for  the  puffs  fall 
very  quickly.  Serve  with  a 


436  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

STRAWBERRY     SAUCE. 
Two  eggs. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  cupful  of  boiling  milk. 
One  cupful  of  strawberries. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  stir  in  the  berries.  Set  the  bowl  con- 
taining the  sauce  in  a  basin  of  hot  water,  gradually  add 
the  hot  milk,  cook  two  minutes,  and  send  to  table.  Other 
berries  may  be  used  as  the  strawberries  are  in  this  case. 

PUDDING    OF    STALE    CAKE. 

Chocolate  layer-cake  is  the  best  variety  to  use  in  this 
way,  but  any  other  kind  will  do.  Make  a  soft  custard  of 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 
One  pint  of  milk.  *' 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Beat  the  yolks  with  a  little  of  the  cold  milk  ;  heat  the 
rest  of  the  milk,  and  when  it  boils,  add  the  yolks.  Stir 
two  minutes,  add  the  salt  and  sugar,  and  remove  from 
the  fire.  Break  the  cake  into  pieces, — which  for  this 
quantity  of  custard  should  measure  not  more  than  a  pint. 
Place  the  cake  in  a  pudding-dish,  pour  over  it  the  custard, 
and  bake  twenty  minutes.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
stiff,  add  one  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  the  egg  over 
the  top,  and  brown  delicately  in  the  oven.  Serve  cold. 

QUEEN  OF  PUDDINGS. 

This  may  be  eaten  hot  or  cold.  The  following  quanti- 
ties will  answer  for  eight  persons. 


PUDDINGS.  437 

Two  cupfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 
One  quart  of  milk. 
Four  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  lemon  (rind  and  juice). 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  cupful  of  jelly. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  crumbs  in  the  milk  for  half  an  hour.  Beat 
the  yolks  and  sugar  together  until  light,  add  them  to  the 
crumbs  and  milk,  stir  well,  and  put  in  the  lemon.  Pour 
the  whole  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  bake  half  an  hour. 
Whip  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  and  add  to  them  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar ;  when  the  pudding  is  done, 
place  on  top  of  it  a  layer  of  the  egg,  then  a  layer  of  jelly 
and  lastly  the  rest  of  the  egg,  and  brown  to  a  delicate 
color.  If  a  sauce  is  preferred,  the  simple  cream  sauce 
will  be  most  suitable. 

APPLE    ROLY-POLY. 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lard  or  butter. 

One  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon. 

Apples. 

Sift  the  flour,  baking-powder  and  salt  well  together, 
rub  the  lard  into  them,  and  when  all  is  thoroughly  mixed, 
add  sufficient  sweet  milk  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Turn 
the  dough  out  upon  the  moulding-board,  mould  it  smooth, 
sifting  flour  under  it  to  prevent  its  sticking,  to  the  board, 
and  roll  it  into  a  sheet  a-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Spread 


438  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK- HOOK. 

this  thickly  with  sliced  apples,  and  sift  over  them  the 
sugar  and  cinnamon.  Roll  the  dough  up  the  same  as 
jelly  cake,  press  the  overlapping  parts  of  dough  well  to 
the  body  of  the  pudding  and  also  press  the  ends  well  to 
prevent  the  escape  of  the  juices.  Place  the  pudding  on  a 
plate,  set  the  plate  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  hot  water, 
and  steam  an  hour  and  a-half.  Serve  with  wine  sauce, 
No.  i. 

BAKED   APPLE    PUDDING, 

The  dough  for  this  is  made  the  same  as  the  preceding. 
Slice  enough  apples  to  nearly  fill  the  pudding-dish,  sea- 
soning them  with  sugar  and  cinnamon.  After  the  dough 
is  smoothed  on  the  board  roll  it  just  the  size  of  the  top 
of  the  dish,  lay  it  on  top  of  the  apples,  and  bake  one 
hour.  Serve  with  cream  sauce,  or  with  wine  sauce,  No.  2. 

BIRD'S-NEST  PUDDING. 

This  dessert  is  to  be  eaten  hot.  To  make  enough  for 
seven  persons  take 

Six  medium-sized  apples. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

Peel  and  core  the  apples,  and  cut  them  into  eighths. 
Place  them  in  a  pudding-dish  with  half  the  sugar,  the  cin- 
namon and  the  water,  and  bake  them  until  nearly  done — 


PUDDINGS.  439 

generally  about  twenty  minutes.  While  the  apples  are 
cooking,  rub  the  butter  and  the  rest  of  the  sugar  together, 
add  the  beaten  egg,  stir  well,  and  add  the  milk.  Sift  the 
baking-powder  and  half  a  tea-cupful  of  flour  together,  and 
add  them  to  the  mixture,  stirring  in  more  flour  until  a 
rather  thick  batter  is  formed.  When  the  apples  are  ten- 
der, but  not  quite  done,  remove  the  dish  from  the  oven, 
stir  the  apples  well,  carefully  turn  the  batter  over  the  top 
of  them,  return  the  dish  to  the  oven,  and  bake  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

CHOCOLATE    PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Ten  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  bread. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Four  eggs. 

Heat  the  milk,  and  when  it  is  boiling,  stir  in  the  bread, 
sugar,  chocolate,  salt  and  butter.  Boil  three  minutes, 
remove  from  the  fire,  and  turn  the  pudding  into  a  pud- 
ding dish.  Reserve  the  whites  of  two  of  the  eggs,  beat 
the  other  two  whites  and  the  four  yolks  well  together, 
and  add  them  to  the  pudding,  stirring  them  in  well ; 
then  bake  half  an  hour.  Beat  the  two  whites  stiff, 
add  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  spread  the  egg  on  top  of 
the  pudding,  and  brown  delicately  in  the  oven.  This  is 
eaten  cold  without  sauce. 

ENGLISH    PLUM    PUDDING. 

This   recipe  was   awarded  the  two-guinea  prize  lately 


44O  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

offered  by  the  Queen,  for  which  there  were  five  hundred 
competitors.  The  following  will  make  a  pudding  weigh- 
ing six  pounds. 

One  pound  of  raisins. 

One  pound  of  suet. 

Three-quarters  pound  of  stale  bread-crumbs. 

One-quarter  pound  of  brown  sugar. 

One  lemon  (rind  only). 

One-half  pound  orange  peel  (candied). 

One-quarter  pound  of  flour. 

One  pound  of  currants. 

One-half  of  a  nutmeg  grated. 

Five  eggs. 

One-half  pint  of  brandy. 

Chop  the  suet  fine,  mince  the  orange  peel,  clean,  wash 
and  dry  the  currants,  stone  the  raisins,  and  mix  all  the 
dry  ingredients  together.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  to  them 
the  brandy ;  pour  this  liquid  over  the  dry  mixture,  and 
mix  thoroughly.  Pack  the  pudding  into  well  greased 
pudding-moulds,  and  boil  six  hours  as  soon  as  made,  and 
six  hours  when  wanted  for  use.  (For  boiling  pudding, 
see  page  456.)  Serve  with 

BRANDY     SAUCE. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  eggs  (whites  only). 
One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 

Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  add  the  sugar, 
and  beat  until  white  and  light.  Then  add  the  whites  one 
at  a  time,  beating  all  the  while.  When  ready  to  serve, 


PUDDINGS.  441 

add  the  brandy  and  boiling  water,  set  the  bowl  containing 
the  sauce  in  a  basin  of  hot  water  over  the  fire,  stir  until 
light  and  creamy,  and  serve. 

BREAD    PUDDING. 

This  pudding  is  served  hot  ;  and  the  following  propor- 
tions are  sufficient  for  seven  persons. 

One  pint  of  stale  bread. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

•  Place  the  bread  in  the  milk,  and  after  it  has  soaked 
two  hours,  mash  it  very  fine.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  and 
add  to  them  the  sugar  and  salt.  When  well  mixed,  stir 
this  into  the  bread  and  milk,  pour  the  whole  into  an 
earthenware  baking-dish,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  in  a  rather  slow  oven.  Serve  with 

VANILLA    SAUCE. 

Two  eggs  (whites  and  one  yolk). 
One-half  cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites,  beat  the  latter  to  a 
stiff  froth,  and  add  the  sugar,  stirring  it  in  vigorously. 
Beat  one  of  the  yolks  well,  stir  it  thoroughly  into  the 
milk,  add  the  vanilla,  and  place  the  mixture  in  the  sauce- 
boat.  Heap  the  beaten  whites  on  top,  and  stir  them  in 
just  before  serving  and  after  the  sauce  is  on  the  table. 
The  other  yolk  is  not  required  in  the  sauce. 


442  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CHERRY     PUDDING. 

This  is  a  large  recipe,  two-thirds  being  sufficient  for  a 
family  of  six. 

Three  eggs. 

Two  quarts  of  cherries. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  and  one-half  pint  of  stale  bread-crumbs. 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 

One-quarter  of  a  nutmeg. 

Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk  for  one  hour.  Mix  the 
sugar,  salt,  baking-powder,  flour  and  nutmeg  together, 
sifting  all  through  a  sieve.  Mash  the  bread  in  the  milk, 
stir  into  it  the  flour  mixture,  mix  well,  add  the  eggs,  well 
beaten,  and  lastly  put  in  the  cherries,  which  may  be 
stoned  or  not,  as  preferred.  This  pudding  may  be 
steamed  or  boiled.  If  to  be  steamed,  butter  the  pudding- 
tin  thoroughly,  turn  into  it  the  mixture,  allowing  space 
for  the  pudding  to  increase  one-third  in  size,  and  steam 
two  hours  and  a-half.  If  to  be  boiled,  dip  the  pudding 
bag  in  boiling  water,  spread  it  out,  dredge  it  well  on  the 
inside  with  flour,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  tie  it  up 
securely.  Have  a  tin  plate  at  the  bottom  of  a  kettle  that 
is  half  full  of  boiling  water.  Place  the  pudding  in  this 
kettle,  and  boil  it  constantly  for  four  hours,  replenishing 
the  water  as  needed  from  the  boiling  tea-kettle.  When 
done,  lift  the  pudding  out,  plunge  it  into  cold  water, 
remove  it  immediately  and  turn  it  out  upon  a  platter. 
Serve  with  a  sauce  made  the  same  as  strawberry  sauce 


PUDDINGS.  443 

(see  page  436),  substituting  for  the   berries  one  cupful  of 
cherries  that  have  been  slightly  stewed. 

APPLE   TAPIOCA    PUDDING. 

Three-quarter  cupful  of  pearl  tapioca. 

One  quart  of  water. 

One  lemon. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Seven  apples. 

Fourteen  tea-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Soak  the  tapioca  over  night  in  the  water ;  or  if  the  fine 
tapioca  is  used  three  hours  of  soaking  will  suffice.  One 
hour  before  dinner  time,  place  the  water  and  tapioca 
in  a  double  boiler,  and  boil  until  the  tapioca  is  trans- 
parent, usually  about  thirty  minutes.  Stir  it  often,  and 
add  the  salt  just  before  taking  the  tapioca  from  the  fire. 
Pare  and  core  the  apples,  place  in  the  cavity  made  by 
each  core  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  divide  the 
juice  of  the  lemon  among  the  seven  apples.  Place  a 
little  dot  of  butter  on  top  of  each  apple,  arrange  the  apples 
in  a  baking-dish,  pour  the  tapioca  over  them,  and  bake 
until  they  are  soft,  usually  thirty  or  forty  minutes. 
Serve  hot  with  cream  and  sugar. 

BLACK     PUDDING. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 

One  cupful  of  warm  water. 

Two  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 

One  scanty  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One-half  scant  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  egg. 


444  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

Place  the  water  and  molasses  together,  add  the  soda, 
and  stir  all  well  to  dissolve  the  latter.  Add  the  salt  and 
flour  and  then  the  egg  well  beaten,  stirring  vigorously 
after  each  addition.  Stone  the  raisins,  chop  them  rather 
coarse  and  add  them  the  last  thing.  Butter  a  pudding 
mould  or  a  basin,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  set  the  basin 
in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  steam  two 
hours.  Serve  with  the  following 

SUGAR   SAUCE. 

One  cupful  of  white  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
Two  eggs. 
Vanilla  to  flavor. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until  they  form  a 
frothy  cream.  Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
add  first  the  yolks,  well  beaten,  and  stir  them  well  into 
the  butter  and  sugar ;  and  then  add  the  beaten  whites, 
which  have  been  whipped  to  a  stiff  froth.  Beat  all  well 
together,  add  the  flavoring,  and  the  sauce  is  then  ready  to 
use. 

FANCY    PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Three  eggs  (whites). 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Dissolve  the  corn-starch  in  a  little  of  the  cold  milk, 
place  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler, 
and  when  it  is  scalding,  add  the  corn-starch.  Let  the 
latter  boil  three  minutes,  and  add  the  sugar  and  salt  and 


PUDDINGS.  445 

then  the  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  a  stilf  froth.  Cook  but 
a  moment,  remove  the  mixture  from  the  fire,  pour  it  into  a 
pudding-mould  that  has  been  wet  in  cold  water,  and  set 
it  away  to  cool.  Make  the  following 

FANCY  SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Three  eggs  (yolks). 

Vanilla  to  flavor. 

One-third  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One-third  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  yolks  until  light,  and  stir  into  them  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  milk.  Add  the  same  quantity  of  milk  to 
the  corn-starch,  and  when  the  latter  is  well  dissolved  stir 
the  two  mixtures  vigorously  together.  Place  the  rest  of 
the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when  it  is 
scalding,  turn  into  it  the  mixture  of  egg  and  corn-starch. 
Let  the  whole  boil  two  minutes,  add  the  salt  and  the 
sugar,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  when  the  sauce  is  cold, 
add  the  flavoring.  Turn  the  pudding  out  upon  a  platter, 
pour  the  sauce  about  it,  and  serve. 

COTTAGE    PUDDING. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken,  about  one  pint. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  egg, 
well  beaten,  and  then  the  milk,  stirring  all  well.  Sift  the 


446  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

baking-powder  over  the  top,  and  before  stirring  it  in,  sift 
over  it  a  little  flour.  Stir  well,  adding  enough  more  flour 
to  make  a  rather  thick  batter  ;  then  pour  the  batter  into  a 
buttered  dish,  and  bake  thirty  minutes.  Serve  hot  with 
milk  sauce.  (See  page  415.) 

CHOCOLATE    CUSTARD    PUDDING. 

One-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate. 
One  and  one-half  pint  of  milk. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  corn-starch. 
Two  eggs. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Place  the  corn-starch  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk 
and  dissolve  it ;  place  the  yolks  of  the  >Jggs  also  in  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk,  and  beat  them  thin  with  a 
fork  ;  then  place  the  two  mixtures  together.  Put  the 
rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when 
it  boils,  turn  in  the  grated  chocolate,  stir  well,  and  let  it 
boil  five  minutes  or  until  the  chocolate  is  perfectly  dis- 
solved. Remove  the  liquid  from  the  fire,  and  strain  it 
through  a  fine  wire  strainer ;  then  return  it  to  the  kettle 
or  boiler,  and  when  it  boils  again,  stir  into  it  the  mixture 
of  corn-starch  and  egg.  Add  the  salt  and  sugar,  stir 
often  and  let  the  whole  cook  six  or  eight  minutes.  Turn 
the  pudding  into  a  pudding-dish,  and  add  the  vanilla. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  one  large  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  lay  the  froth  on  top  of  the  pudding, 
and  brown  delicately.  The  above  quantity  is  enough 
for  six  persons.  The  pudding  is  eaten  cold,  without 
sauce- 


PUDDINGS.  447 

MINUTE    PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk. 
One  pint  of  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 
Two  eggs. 

Beat  the  eggs  well,  and  add  the  flour  and  enough  of 
the  milk  to  make  all  smooth.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk 
on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when  scalding  hot,  stir 
in  the  mixture  of  flour  and  egg.  Cook  ten  minutes,  add 
the  salt  and  butter,  and  serve  at  once  with 

NUTMEG     SAUCE. 

One  pint  of  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
Nutmeg  to  taste. 

Place  the  sugar  and  milk  together  and  sift  into  them 
sufficient  nutmeg  to  flavor. 

SWEDISH    PUDDING. 

This  pudding  is  to  be  served  hot.     For  five  persons  allow 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Four  eggs. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  then  the  salt  and  flour  and 
lastly  the  beaten  whites.  Butter  five  tea-cups,  and  pour 
the  batter  into  them,  filling  the  cups  but  half  full.  Place 
the  cups  in  a  steamer  over  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and 


448  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

steam  them  thirty  minutes,  by  which  time  the  batter  will 
fill  the  cups.  Turn  the  puddings  out  upon  a  hot  platter, 
and  pour  around  them  a  clear 

BRANDY    SAUCE. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 
One  egg  (white). 
One-half  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  add  the  sugar, 
and  beat  until  white  and  light ;  then  add  the  white, 
beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  stir  well.  When  ready  to 
serve,  add  the  brandy  and  the  water,  stand  the  bowl  con- 
taining the  sauce  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water  on  the  fire, 
and  stir  until  the  sauce  is  light  and  foamy.  It  is  then 
ready  to  use. 

TIPSY     PUDDING. 

This  may  be  made  of  any  dry  cake,  sponge-cake  being 
preferred.  The  following  recipe  is  calculated  for  six 
persons.  Saturate  six  slices  of  sponge  cake  with  sherry, 
taking  care  the  cake  is  not  soaked  enough  to  fall  to 
pieces.  Place  the  cake  in  the  serving  dish,  and  pour  over 
it  the  following 

SOFT    CUSTARD. 

One  pint  of  milk. 
Three  eggs  (yolks). 
One-half  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Beat  the  yolks  well,  and  add  to  them    half  a  cupful  of 


PUDDINGS.  449 

the  milk ;  place  the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a  double-boiler  on 
the  fire,  and  when  scalding  hot,  stir  in  the  yolks,  cook 
one  minute,  and  add  the  salt  and  sugar.  The  custard  is 
then  ready  to  use. 

If  the  pudding  is  placed  in  a  glass  dish,  decorate  the 
top  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  prepared  as  follows  : 
Beat  the  whites  stiff.  Have  ready  a  pint  of  boiling  milk, 
put  in  a  spoonful  of  the  egg,  cook  it  one  minute,  turn  it 
on  the  other  side,  and  cook  one  minute  longer ;  then  take 
it  up,  drain  on  a  dish,  and  when  quite  free  of  milk,  lay  it 
on  top  of  the  custard.  This  is  called  "  poaching  the 
white."  Repeat  the  process  until  all  the  egg  has  been 
prepared,  and  place  a  dot  of  jelly  on  top  of  each  piece 
of  egg  before  sending  the  pudding  to  table. 

If  the  pudding  is  served  in  a  platter,  beat  the  whites 
stiff,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  tea-spoon- 
ful of  vanilla,  sprinkle  the  egg  on  top  of  the  pudding,  and 
brown  in  the  oven. 

RICE    CARAMEL    PUDDING. 

One  cupful  of  rice. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  eggs. 

Two  and  a  half  pints  of  milk. 
One 'tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  stick  of  cinnamon. 

Wash  the  rice,  and  soak  it  for  three  hours  in  plenty  of 
water.  Drain  off  the  water  at  the  end  of  the  time,  place 
the  rice  and  cinnamon  in  a  double  boiler  with  all  but  half 
a  cupful  of  the  milk,  and  cook  for  two  hours.  Place  the 
sugar  in  a  small  frying-pan,  and  stir  until  it  turns  brown 
and  becomes  a  liquid.  Instantly  pour  the  sugar  into  a 
29 


450  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

three-pint  mould  that  has  been  well  warmed  on  the  back 
of  the  range,  and  turn  the  mould  around  so  that  the  sugar 
will  coat  all  parts  of  it.  As  the  sugar-  hardens  quickly, 
the  work  must  be  expeditiously  done  or  the  sugar  will  not 
spread.  Beat  the  eggs  well,  add  the  half-cupful  of  milk 
reserved,  and  stir  this  into  the  boiling  rice,  adding  also 
the  salt.  Let  the  whole  cook  only  about  a  minute  after 
boiling  up,  and  then  turn  the  pudding  into  the  sugar- 
lined  mould.  Cover  the  mould,  place  it  in  a  pan  of  boil- 
ing water,  and  bake  half  an  hour.  When  done,  remove 
it  from  the  oven,  and  after  it  has  stood  ten  minutes,  turn 
it  out  upon  a  flat  dish.  Serve  with  the  custard  sauce. 
The  pudding  is  served  hot  and  the  sauce  cold. 

SPONGE    BATTER    PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Three  eggs. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  flour. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  half  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and 
stir  the  other  half  of  the  milk  into  the  flour,  making  a 
paste.  When  the  milk  in  the  boiler  is'scalding,  turn  into 
it  the  paste  and  stir  until  the  whole  is  smooth.  Cook  for 
four  minutes,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  butter, 
sugar,  salt  and  the  beaten  yolks  ;  then  let  the  mixture 
cool  slightly,  and  add  the  beaten  whites.  Butter  a  pud- 
ding dish  and  pour  the  batter  into  it,  the  dish  being  so 
large  that  the  batter  will  but  half  fill  it.  Set  the  dish  in 
a  large  pan,  pour  into  the  pan  enough  hot  water  to  come 
half  way  up  the  sides  of  the  dish,  and  bake  the  pudding 


PUDDINGS.  45 1 

half  an  hour  in  a  quick  oven.     Serve  without  delay  with  a 
cream  sauce,  which  is  also  sent  to  table  hot. 

CREAM    SAUCE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  boiling  water. 

One  cupful  of  cream. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Place  the  sugar  and  water  in  a  porcelain-lined  saucepan, 
and  boil  rapidly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Beat  the  cream  well 
with  a  whisk  or  a  fork,  and  add  it  gradually  to  the  syrup. 
Remove  the  sauce  from  the  fire  and  add  the  vanilla. 

PUFFS,    WITH     ORANGE     SAUCE. 

These  are  served  hot  and  make  a  delicious  dessert. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 

Three  eggs. 

Two  oranges  (rind  and  juice). 

Grate  the  rind  from  the  oranges,  squeeze  the  juice 
upon  the  rind  and  set  it  away  until  needed  to  finish  the 
sauce.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  gradually  add  the 
granulated  sugar,  and  when  the  cream  is  well  beaten,  add 
the  unbeaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Beat  well  again,  add 
the  milk,  and  then  stir  in  the  flour,  with  which  the  pow- 
der has  been  mixed.  Bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  well 
buttered  muffin  pans.  While  the  puffs  are  baking,  make 
the  sauce.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  and  gradu- 


452  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

ally  add  the  powdered  sugar  and  then  the  orange  juice 
and  rind ;  the  sauce  is  then  ready  to  use.  Turn  the  puffs 
out  upon  a  flat  dish,  pour  the  sauce  around  them,  and 
serve  at  once.  A  lemon  may  be  substituted  for  the 
oranges  if  preferred. 

CREAM    PUFFS. 

The  following  allowance  will  make  nine  large  puffs. 

One  cupful  of  sifted  flour. 
One  cupful  of  water. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Three  eggs. 
T  Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Put  the  butter,  sugar,  salt  and  water  on  the  fire  in  a 
rather  large  sauce  pan,  and  when  the  water  begins  lo  boil, 
add  the  flour  dry,  sifting  it  in  by  degrees  with  the  left 
hand,  while  constantly  stirring  with  the  right  hand.  Stir 
vigorously  until  the  mixture  is  perfectly  smooth,  about 
three  minutes  generally  sufficing.  Remove  the  pan  from 
the  fire,  turn  the  batter  into  a  bowl,  and  set  it  away  to 
cool.  When  cool,  put  in  the  eggs  unbeaten,  adding  but 
one  at  a  time,  and  beating  vigorously  after  each  addi- 
tion. When  the  eggs  are  all  in,  beat  the  batter  very 
thoroughly  u  rT  :s  smooth  and  soft,  at  least  fifteen  min- 
utes being  n  ,ary  for  this  purpose.  Lightly  butter  a 
baking-pan,  a  /  drop  the  mixture  into  it  from  a  table- 
spoon, using  a  spoonful  for  each  puff,  and  placing  them 
about  an  inch  apart.  Bake  thirty  minutes  in  a  quick 
oven.  These  puffs  are  to  be  served  cold.  After  taking 
them  from  the  oven,  let  them  cool,  split  them  open  and 
put  in 


PUDDINGS.  453 

THE    CREAM. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

One  egg  (yolk  only). 

One  and  one-half  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  even  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Place  the  yolk  of  the  egg  in  a  tea-cup,  beat  it  light 
with  a  fork,  and  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  cold  milk. 
Place  the  corn-starch  in  another  cup,  add  to  it  the  same 
quantity  of  milk,  and  when  the  starch  is  well  dissolved, 
add  the  egg  mixture.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the 
fire  in  a  small  double-boiler,  or  in  a  sauce  pan  set  in 
another  containing  hot  water ;  and  when  it  boils,  stir  in 
the  mixture  of  egg  and  corn-starch.  Let  the  whole  boil 
three  minutes,  add  the  salt,  sugar  and  butter,  remove 
from  the  fire,  and  when  cool,  add  the  flavoring.  Pour  a 
small  spoonful  of  the  cream  into  the  hollow  in  each  puff, 
replace  the  top  taken  off  to  admit  the  cream,  and  serve. 

These  puffs  may  be  eaten  hot  without  the  cream  and 
with  a  strawberry  sauce. 

SILVER    PUDDING. 

Five  eggs. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  butu 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Butter  a  quart  pudding-mould.  Separate  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  from  the  yolks,  being  very  careful  not  to  leave  a 
particle  of  yolk  with  the  whites.  Put  one-third  of  the 


454  ?HE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK'. 

sugar  and  half  a  table-spoonful  of  the  milk  with  the 
whites,  and  beat  the  mixture  with  a  spoon  until  it  breaks 
readily  when  poured  from  the  spoon ;  then  add  a  pint  of 
the  milk,  half  the  extract  and  half  the  salt,  and  when  all 
is  well  blended,  pour  the  mixture  through  a  fine  strainer 
into  the  mould.  Set  the  mould  in  a  pan,  and  pour 
enough  hot  water  about  it  to  reach  almost  to  its  top. 
Place  the  whole  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  being  careful  that  the  water  in  the  pan  does  not 
boil.  When  the  custard  is  properly  cooked,  the  blade  of 
a  knife  inserted  in  it  will  come  forth  clear  and  free  from 
any  milky  appearance.  As  soon  as  the  custard  is  done, 
set  the  mould  where  it  will  become  very  cold.  While  the 
custard  is  cooking,  place  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs  in 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  remaining  pint  of  milk,  set  the 
rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when 
it  is  scalding  hot,  add  the  egg,  and  cook  two  minutes ; 
then  remove  the  custard  from  the  fire,  add  the  rest  of  the 
salt  and  sugar,  and  set  it  away  to  become  thoroughly 
cold,  after  which  the  vanilla  should  be  put  in.  At  serv- 
ing time  turn  the  baked  custard  into  a  flat  glass  dish,  and 
pour  the  soft  custard  around  it.  This  pudding  makes  a 
good  dessert  for  Sunday  dinner,  as  it  is  all  the  better  for 
being  made  the  day  before  it  is  served. 

STRAWBERRY    PUDDING. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  lemon  (juice). 

One  quart  of  strawberries. 

One  half  pint  of  cream. 


PUDDINGS.  455 

Beat  together  a  cupful  of  the  sugar,  the  lemon  juice 
and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  ;  also  beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  add  them  to  the  yolks  and  sugar ;  then  mix  the 
powder  and  flour  thoroughly  and  stir  them  in  gradually. 
Butter  a  deep,  round  pan,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  bake 
forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  While  this  cake  is 
baking,  pick  over  and  crush  the  berries,  add  to  them 
the  rest  of  the  sugar,  and  set  away  in  a  cool  place. 
Whip  the  cream  light  with  a  whip-churn  or  a  Dover  egg- 
beater,  and  set  it  away  to  cool  also.  When  the  cake  is 
baked  and  has  become  cool,  place  it  in  a  large  pudding- 
dish,  pour  the  strawberries  over  it,  heap  the  whipped 
cream  upon  the  fruit,  and  serve.  More  cream  may,  if 
desired,  be  used  than  is  called  for  in  this  recipe.  To 
make  this  pudding  properly,  the  berries  should  be  very 
juicy  when  emptied  upon  the  cake.  Stale  sponge  cake 
may  be  utilized  in  this  way.  Raspberries  may  be  used  in 
place  of  strawberries,  and  will  require  less  sugar. 

RICE    BALLS,    WITH    CUSTARD. 

One  cupful  of  rice. 
Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  milk. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Jelly  for  decorating. 

Wash  the  rice  well,  and  soak  it  for  an  hour  in  enough 
water  to  cover  it.  Pour  off  the  water,  add  the  milk,  and 
cook  for  an  hour  in  a  double  boiler ;  then  put  in  the 
salt,  and  cook  half  an  hour  longer.  Dip  small  custard 
cups  into  cold  water,  'fill  them  with  the  cooked  rice,  and 
set  them  where  they  will  become  cold.  At  serving  time 
turn  the  mounds  of  rice  out  upon  a  flat  dish,  and  after 
putting  a  bit  of  bright  jelly  upon  each,  pour  about  them  a 


456  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

soft  custard,  which  will  have  been  made  by  the  following 
recipe  : 

SOFT    CUSTARD. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Four  eggs  (yolks). 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  the  yolks  light,  and  add  to  them  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  the  cold  milk.  Thoroughly  mix  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  the  milk  with  the  corn-starch,  and  add  the  eggs. 
Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler, 
and  when  it  is  hot,  stir  in  the  mixture  of  egg  and  corn- 
starch.  Cook  the  whole  for  five  minutes,  stirring  well ; 
then  remove  the  custard  from  the  fire,  add  the  salt,  and 
when  cold,  flavor  with  vanilla.  This  is  a  cheap  custard, 
and  it  is  not,  of  course,  as  good  as  if  made  wholly  of  eggs, 
in  which  case  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  should  be  used  and 
the  corn-starch  omitted.  The  rice  may  be  served  hot  and 
the  custard  cold,  if  desired. 

HOW  TO  BOIL  PUDDINGS. 

Puddings  may  be  boiled  in  a  bowl,  a  mould  or  a  cloth. 
The  mould  should  have  a  closely  fitting  top  and  be  well 
buttered,  top  and  all,  before  the  batter  is  poured  in. 
Pudding  moulds  are  usually  made  with  hasps  or  other 
fastenings,  but  if  these  are  lacking,  tie  the  cover  down 
securely.  A  tin  pail  may  be  used  in  an  emergency ;  but 
in  such  a  case  the  top  of  the  pudding  should  first  be 
covered  with  a  cloth  that  has  been  wrung  from  hot  water 
and  well  dredged  with  flour,  and  the  cover  of  the  pail 


PUDDINGS.  457 

should  then  be  put  on  securely.  If  a  bowl  is  used,  butter 
it  well,  and  tie  a  flannel  cloth  tightly  over  the  top.  The 
cloth  should  be  wrung  out  of  hot  water,  so  the  flour  will 
adhere  to  it  thickly.  But  whatever  utensil  is  used  in 
which  to  boil  a  pudding,  it  should  only  be  two-thirds  full 
when  the  pudding  is  first  put  in  :  this  is  to  allow  for  the 
increase  in  size  caused  by  the  boiling.  A  pudding  bag 
should  be  made  with  felled  seams  at  the  sides  and  bot- 
tom, the  better  to  exclude  the  water.  When  about  to  use 
it,  wring  the  bag  out  of  hot  water,  turn  it  inside  out,  and 
dust  it  very  thickly  with  flour  on  both  sides.  Turn  it 
back  again,  put  in  the  pudding,  and  tie  the  top  of  the 
bag  securely.  The  water  in  the  kettle  must  be  boiling 
when  the  pudding  is  put  into  it  and  should  not  cease 
boiling  for  one  instant  until  the  pudding  is  done.  The 
bag,  mould  or  bowl  should  be  turned  several  times  under 
the  water  to  prevent  it  sticking  to  the  kettle.  The  bag 
should  be  entirely  covered  with  water,  but  if  a  mould  is 
used,  the  water  need  not  reach  quite  to  its  top. 

When  the  proper  time  of  boiling  is  finished,  remove 
the  mould  or  bag  from  the  water,  plunge  it  instantly  into 
cold  water,  and  then  turn  it  out  without  losing  a  second. 
This  prevents  sticking,  and  causes  the  mould  to  make  a 
clearer  impression  upon  the  pudding.  Boiled  puddings 
must  always  be  served  immediately,  or  they  will  soon 
grow  heavy.  Many  of  the  puddings  that  are  baked  can 
be  more  successfully  boiled,  but  twice  as  much  time  is 
required  for  boiling  as  for  baking. 

BOILED    INDIAN    PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  molasses. 
One  pint  of  milk. 


458  THE  PATTERN 

One  pound  of  suet. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Indian  meal. 

Warm  the  milk,  and  add  the  molasses,  stirring  well 
together;  then  beat  the  eggs  vigorously,  and  stir  them 
thoroughly  into  the  liquid.  Chop  the  suet  fine,  and 
add  it  and  the  rest  of  the  ingredients  together,  with  suffi- 
cient meal  to  make  a  rather  thick  batter;  boil  for  three 
hours,  and  serve  with  wine  sauce. 

CHRISTMAS    PLUM    PUDDING, 

One  pint  of  seeded  raisins. 

One-half  pint  of  currants. 

One-quarter  pint  of  citron,  cut  small. 

One  pint  of  apples  (peeled  and  chopped). 

One  pint  of  flour. 

One-half  a  nutmeg  (grated). 

One-half  pint  of  sugar. 

One  pint  of  chopped  suet. 

One  pint  of  sweet  milk. 

One  and  a-quarter  pint  of  bread-crumbs. 

Four  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt.     . 

Place  the  dry  ingredients  together;  then  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  the  rest  of  the  recipe.  When  mixed,  the 
batter  should  be  quite  thick;  if  not  satisfactory  in  this 
respect,  add  more  flour.  Boil  for  four  hours,  and  serve 
with  brandy  or  wine  sauce. 

SIMPLE   CURRANT    PUDDING. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
One-ha.lf  pint  of  currants  (dried). 


PUDDINGS.  459 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  butter. 
Four  eggs  (yolks). 

Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  of  the  milk  until  perfectly 
smooth,  add  the  rest  of  the  milk,  and  if  the  paste  seems 
at  all  lumpy,  strain  it  through  a  sieve  ;  then  place  the 
liquid  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and  let  it  simmer 
until  rather  thick,  stirring  often.  Add  the  butter,  remove 
from  the  fire,  and  when  cooled,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolks 
of  the  eggs  and  the  dried  currants.  Put  the  pudding  in 
a  bag,  and  boil  two  hours.  Serve  with  wine  sauce. 

WEBSTER    PUDDING. 

One-half  cupful  of  molasses. 
One-half  cupful  of  sweet  milk. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  melted  butter. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  wine  or  brandy. 
One-half  pound  of  raisins  or  currants. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Flour  to  thicken. 


Warm  the  milk,  dissolve  the  soda  in  it,  and  add  the 
molasses.  Mix  the  dry  ingredients  together,  add  them  to 
the  milk  and  molasses,  and  thicken  with  flour  until  a 
rather  stiff  batter  is  formed.  If  wine  is  not  convenient 
or  desirable,  the  juice  of  two  lemons  may  be  used.  Pour 
the  pudding  into  a  well  floured  bag,  boil  three  hours,  and 
serve  with  the  following 


460  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

WINE  SAUCE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  egg. 

One-half  pint  of  boiling  water. 

One-eighth  pint  of  wine  or  lemon-juice. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  the  egg,  well 
beaten,  and  stir  in,  a  spoonful  at  a  time,  the  boiling  water. 
Set  the  bowl  containing  the  sauce  in  a  sauce-panful  of 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes ; 
then  remove,, add  the  wine  and  a  dusting  of  nutmeg  or 
cinnamon,  and  serve. 

BOILED    BREAD    PUDDING. 

Two  cupfuls  of  bread-crumbs. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  cupful  of  raisins, 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
Two  eggs. 

Butter  or  suet  the  size  of  an  egg. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  allspice. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Soak  the  bread-crumbs  in  the  milk  for  fifteen  minutes ; 
then  mash  them  fine,  add  the  molasses,  warmed,  and  the 
soda,  dissolved  in  a  table-spoonful  of  cold  water.  Next 
put  in  the  spice,  salt,  seeded  raisins,  butter  (if  suet  is 
used,  chop  it  very  fine  before  adding  it),  and  lastly  the 
beaten  eggs.  Boil  in  a  bag  or  a  mould  for  two  hours, 
and  serve  with  hard  sauce. 


FROZEN  DISHES. 

"A  dainty  dish  to  set  before  a  king." 

MOTHER  GOOSE. 

DURING  the  summer  months  desserts  should  be  as 
light  and  cooling  as  possible,  and  nothing  is  more  whole- 
some and  thoroughly  satisfactory  for  the  purpose  than 
the  many  frozen  dainties,  such  as  ice-creams,  ices,  frozen 
fruits,  etc.  After  the  housewife  has  accustomed  herself 
to  the  preparation  of  ice-creams  and  ices,  the  work  will 
seem  quite  as  simple  as  that  involved  in  the  productions 
of  any  other  dessert ;  besides,  the  cost  is  not  so  great  as 
is  generally  supposed,  and  the  packing  and  freezing  are 
by  no  means  the  intricate  processes  many  cooks  think 
them. 

The  simplest  kind  of  ice-cream  is  made  of  cream,  sugar 
and  flavoring.  Almost  any  kind  of  fruit  may  be  made 
very  sweet  and  frozen  with  water,  or  the  juice  of  the  fruit 
may  be  combined  with  water  and  sugar  and  then  frozen. 
The  more  acid  the  fruit,  the  smaller  the  quantity  of  it 
required,  as  will  be  observed  by  a  comparison  of  lemon 
and  orange  sherbet,  the  juice  of  ten  oranges  being  used 
to  produce  the  same  quantity  of  sherbet  that  five  lemons 
will  make. 

461 


462  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

TO    FREEZE    ICE-CREAMS,    ICES,    ETC. 

Break  the  ice  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  quart  bowl, 
place  these  in  a  canvas  bag,  and  pound  the  ice  with  a 
wooden  mallet  until  it  is  reduced  to  pieces  the  size  of  a 
bird's  egg — that  is,  until  it  is  practically  crushed.  After 
adjusting  the  can  containing  the  liquid  in  the  freezer, 
pack  around  the  can  a  layer  of  ice  five  inches  deep ; 
sprinkle  this  layer  freely  with  rock  salt,  and  continue  to 
arrange  alternate  layers  of  ice  and  salt  until  the  freezer 
is  full,  pounding  the  packing  with  a  stick  of  wood  after 
each  addition  of  salt,  and  turning  the  crank  of  the  freezer 
a  few  times  to  settle  the  ice.  Do  not  draw  off  the  water 
that  forms  in  the  tub,  as  it  makes  a  perfectly  cold  envel- 
ope for  the  can.  To  pack  a  gallon  freezer  will  require 
ten  quarts  of  ice  and  three  pints  of  rock  salt.  By  using 
more  salt,  the  work  may  be  more  quickly  done,  but  the 
cream  will  not  be  so  smooth.  Turn  the  crank  slowly  at 
first,  increasing  its  speed  as  the  cream  hardens..  When 
finished,  carefully  wipe  the  bits  of  ice  and  salt  from  the 
cover  of  the  can,  and  remove  the  cover  without  taking 
out  the  can.  Remove  the  beater,  scrape  the  cream  from 
it,  and  work  a  large  spoon  up  and  down  in  the  can  until 
the  space  formed  by  withdrawing  the  beater  is  filled  and 
the  cream  is  light.  Replace  the  cover,  putting  a  cork  in 
the  hole  in  which  the  trunk  of  the  beater  worked  ;  and 
set  the  freezer  aside  for  awhile  in  a  cold  place,  covering 
the  can  with  ice  and  throwing  a  piece  of  carpet  or  a 
blanket  over  the  whole.  At  serving  time  take  the  can 
from  the  tub  and  place  it  for  a  few  seconds  in  a  pan  of 
tepid  water ;  the  cream  may  then  be  easily  slipped  out 
upon  a  dish,  or  it  may  be  taken  out  in  smooth, 


FROZEN  DISHES.  463 

egg-shaped  portions  by  means  of  a  large  cooking-spoon 
that  has  been  dipped  for  an  instant  in  hot  water. 

If  the  cream  is  to  be  moulded,  it  should  be  removed 
from  the  freezer  when  the  beater  is  taken  out.  After 
being  placed  in  the  mould,  it  should  be  worked  up  and 
down  with  a  spoon,  so  that  every  part  of  the  mould  shall 
be  filled.  Lay  a  sheet  of  white  paper  upon  the  cream 
before  putting  on  the  cover,  and  bury  the  mould  in  fresh 
ice  and  salt.  If  the  mould  is  to  stand  in  the  ice  and  salt 
for  many  hours,  cut  a  strip  of  paper  or  cloth  to  fit 
around  the  cover  where  it  joins  the  mould,  spread  this 
with  soft  butter  or  tallow,  and  fasten  it  where  the  cover 
and  mould  join  ;  this  strip  will  keep  out  the  salt  water, 
and  it  should  be  removed  and  the  mould  carefully  wiped 
before  the  cover  is  taken  off. 

There  are  many  good  freezers,  the  best  of  which,  per- 
haps, is  the  variety  that  works  with  a  crank  and  has  a 
double,  revolving  dasher  making  a  triple  motion.  If 
there  is  no  freezer  at  hand,  an  impromptu  one  may  be 
made  by  using  a  tin-pail  for  the  can  and  a  bucket  or 
cask  for  the  tub;  stir  the  cream  occasionally  with  a 
wooden  spoon  or  flat  stick,  replacing  the  lid  of  the  pail 
after  each  stirring,  and  giving  the  pail  a  rotary  motion  in 
the  ice. 

PHILADELPHIA  ICE-CREAM. 

Genuine  Philadelphia  ice-cream  is  made  simply  of 
cream,  flavoring  and  sugar,  neither  arrowroot,  gelatine 
nor  eggs  being  used  in  its  composition.  The  cream  is 
first  scalded  and  the  sugar  dissolved  in  it  while  it  is  hot. 
When  raw  cream  is  frozen  the  flavoring  is  not  so  pro- 
nounced, and  the  cream  has  a  frozen,  snowy  taste  and  is 


464  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

not  perfectly  smooth  and  velvety.  The  cream  may  be 
either  rich  or  thin,  but  milk  of  poor  quality  will  not 
answer.  If  the  cream  is  exceedingly  rich,  it  may  be 
difficult  to  freeze,  and  may  contain  grains  of  butter. 

VANILLA    ICE-CREAM. 

To  make  enough  for  six  persons,  allow 


One  quart  of  cream. 

One-half  pint  of  sugar. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 


Put  the  sugar  and  one-half  the  cream  in  a  double 
boiler,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes,  stirring  constantly.  Re- 
move the  liquid  from  the  fire,  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  add  the  remaining  cream  and  the  vanilla, 
stir  well,  and  freeze.  The  ice-cream  should  stand  at 
least  two  hours  after  freezing  before  it  is  served. 

LEMON    ICE-CREAM. 

The  following  will  serve  six  persons  : 

One  quart  of  cream. 

Two-thirds  of  a  pint  of  sugar. 

Three  lemons  (rind  of  all  and  juice  of  two). 

One  orange  (juice). 

Mix  the  juice  of  the  orange  and  the  juice  and  rind  of 
the  lemons  with  the  sugar,  and  set  the  mixture  in  a  cold 
place  for  an  hour.  Scald  the  cream  in  a  double  boiler, 
and  set  it  aside  to  cool.  When  the  cream  is  cold,  partly 
freeze  it,  then  add  the  mixture  of  juice  and  sugar  (the 
sugar  should  by  this  time  be  quite  dissolved),  and  finish 
the  freezing  by  turning  the  crank  rapidly  for  five  minutes. 


FROZEN  DISHES.  465 

BISQUE    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 
One-quarter  pound  of  macaroons. 
Two  stale  "  lady-finger  "  cakes. 
One-half  pound  of  sugar. 
Four  kisses. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  caramel. 

Pound  the  macaroons,  kisses  and  "  lady-fingers,"  and 
put  them  through  a  colander.  Place  half  the  cream  on 
the  fire  in  a  double  boiler  to  scald,  add  to  it  the  sugar, 
and  stir  until  it  boils.  Remove  the  hot  cream  from  the 
fire,  add  the  rest  of  the  cream,  and  when  all  is  cold,  turn 
it  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze.  When  properly  frozen 
add  the  vanilla,  caramel  and  pounded  cakes,  and  also 
five  table-spoonfuls  of  sherry,  if  not  objected  to.  Beat 
the  whole  until  perfectly  smooth,  cover,  and  set  away 
to  ripen  for  two  or  three  hours  before  using. 

ORANGE    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

Six  oranges  (juices  of  all,  rind  of  one). 

Three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  sugar. 

Set  half  the  cream  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  add 
the  sugar,  and  when  the  cream  boils,  remove  it  from  the 
fire.  When  cold,  add  the  rest  of  the  cream  and  the 
orange  juice  and  grated  rind.  Freeze,  and  do  not  use 
for  three  hours. 

PISTACHIO    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 
One  quart  of  spinach. 
30 


466  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

One-half  pound  of  sugar. 

One-half  pound  of  shelled  pistachio  nuts. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  extract  of  almonds. 

Wash  the  spinach,  throw  it  into  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water,  boil  rapidly  for  three  minutes,  and  drain  in  a  col- 
ander ;  then  pound  it  until  reduced  to  a  pulp,  and 
squeeze  out  the  juice  by  means  of  a  fine  muslin  cloth. 
Blanch  and  pound  the  nuts.  Scald  half  the  cream  with 
the  sugar  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved, take  the  cream  from  the  fire.  As  soon  as  the 
cream  is  cold  add  the  nuts,  the  flavoring  and  the  re- 
maining cream,  mix  all  well,  and  pour  in  sufficient  of  the 
spinach  juice  to  color  the  liquid  a  light  green.  Freeze, 
and  do  not  use  for  two  or  three  hours. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 
Four  ounces  of  chocolate. 
One  large  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
i     Two-thirds  of  a  pint  of  sugar. 

Place  half  the  cream,  the  chocolate  and  the  sugar  on 
the  fire  in  a  double  boiler ;  stir  and  beat  the  mixture 
until  smooth,  and  strain  it  while  hot  through  a  fine  muslin 
cloth  wrung  from  hot  water.  Add  the  rest  of  the  cream, 
and  when  the  whole  is  cold,  add  the  vanilla,  and  freeze. 
The  above  quantity  will  serve  six  persons. 

PEACH    ICE-CREAM. 

To  make  two  quarts  of  cream,  when  frozen,  allow 

One  quart  of  cream. 
One  pint  of  peaches. 


FROZEN  DISHES.  467 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  almond  extract. 

Pare  the  peaches,  which  should  be  very  ripe  and  mel- 
low, and  cut  them  into  very  small  pieces  to  accurately 
measure  them,  allowing  a  generous  pint.  Mash  and 
strain  the  peaches  through  a  sieve,  beat  the  sugar  into  the 
strained  pulp,  and  let  the  latter  stand  half  an  hour ; 
then  add  the  cream,  beating  it  in  gradually,  flavor  with 
the  extract,  and  freeze. 

ICE-CREAMS  WITH   EGGS. 
VANILLA    ICE-CREAM,    NO.    I. 

One  quart  of  rich  cream. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (whites  only). 

Two  cupf  uls  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  the  milk,  cream,  sugar  and  vanilla  well  together, 
let  the  mixture  stand  twenty  minutes,  and  then  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Stir  well,  and 
freeze. 

VANILLA    ICE-CREAM,    NO.    2. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  pint  of  cream,  or  one  can  of  condensed  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Stir  the  sugar,  vanilla,  cream  and  milk  well  together, 
and  after  the  mixture  has  stood  twenty  minutes,  add  the 
eggs,  both  yolks  and  whites,  beating  them  up  well  and 
stirring  them  vigorously  into  the  cream  and  milk.  Freeze 
as  directed. 


468  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CHOCOLATE    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

One  and  a-half  pint  of  millk. 

Four  eggs. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 

One  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  ounce  of  chocolate. 

Rub  the  flour  smooth  with  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk, 
set  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and 
add  to  it  two  cupfuls  of  the  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs 
very  light,  stir  them  thoroughly  with  the  flour  mixture, 
and  when  the  milk  is  boiling,  stir  the  egg  and  flour  into 
it,  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes,  beating  up  often.  Scrape 
the  chocolate,  put  it  in  a  small  saucepan  with  the  rest  of 
the  sugar  and  the  water,  and  stir  it  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  smooth  and  glossy.  Add  the  chocolate  to  the 
cooked  mixture,  and  when  well  stirred  in,  remove  the 
whole  from  the  fire,  and  cool.  When  cold,  add  the 
cream,  and  freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN    ICE-CREAM. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  strawberry  or  raspberry  juice. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  dissolved  cochineal. 

One  ounce  of  chocolate. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  pint  of  sugar. 

Six  eggs  (yolks). 

Beat  together  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  and  three  gills  of 
the  sugar,  and  add  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk.  Place 
the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and 


FROZEN  DISHES.  469 

when  boiling,  gradually  pour  it  on  the  egg  mixture,  stir- 
ring well.  Then  replace  the  liquid  in  the  boiler,  and 
boil  it  for  four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Remove  it 
from  the  fire,  and  when  cold,  add  the  cream  and  vanilla, 
and  freeze  for  twenty  minutes.  Have  a  tub  in  which  will 
fit  a  three-quart  mould,  a  brick  mould  being  best  for  this 
kind  of  cream  ;  also  have  the  salt  and  ice  ready  for 
packing.  Place  the  chocolate,  a  gill  of  sugar  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  water,  in  a  small  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
and  stir  until  smooth  and  glossy  ;  then  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  more  of  water,  and  set  the  chocolate  back  where 
it  will  not  cook:  Place  one-third  of  the  frozen  cream  in  a 
bowl,  and  beat  the  dissolved  chocolate  into  it.  When 
this  is  perfectly  smooth,  pack  it  in  the  mould,  and  arrange 
ice  and  salt  around  the  latter,  then  pack  half  of  the  re- 
maining cream  on  top  of  the  mixture  in  the  mould.  Next 
add  the  cochineal  to  the  fruit  juice,  and  beat  this  into  the 
remainder  of  the  frozen  cream.  Spread  this  as  a  top 
layer  on  the  cream  in  the  mould,  cover  closely,  and  set 
away  for  two  hours  before  using.  When  done,  this  cream 
should  be  in  three  layers,  first  chocolate,  then  plain 
cream,  and  lastly  the  red  cream.  It  makes  a  most  attrac- 
tive dessert. 

FROZEN    CUSTARD. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

Six  eggs  (yolks). 

One-half  pint  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Put  all  but  half  a  pint  of  the  cream  on  the  fire  in  a 
double  boiler,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  well.  Beat  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  light,  and  add  to  them  the  half  pint  of 


4/O  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

cold  cream ;  and  when  the  cream  in  the  boiler  is  boiling, 
stir  the  eggs  and  milk  into  it.  Stir  continually  until  the 
mixture  thickens,  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  cool, 
add  the  vanilla,  and  freeze.  This  recipe  will  make 
enough  for  eight  persons. 

ICE-CREAM    WITH   ARROWROOT. 

For  two  quarts  of  cream,  allow 

One  quart  of  cream. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One-half  pint  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  arrowroot. 

One-half  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Mix  the  arrowroot  with  half  a  cupful  of  the  milk,  set 
the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler  over  the  fire,  and 
when  it  boils,  beat  in  the  arrowroot,  and  cook  ten  min- 
utes, stirring  often.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  sugar, 
and  set  the  mixture  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the 
cream  and  flavoring,  and  freeze. 

ICE-CREAM    WITH    GELATINE. 

To  make  two  quarts  of  cream,  allow  as  follows  : 

One  quart  of  cream. 
One  pint  of  milk. 
'     One-half  pint  of  sugar. 

One-quarter  package  of  gelatine. 
Flavoring. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  cupful  of  the 
milk.  Heat  another  cupful  of  milk,  and  stir  the  soaked 
gelatine  and  the  sugar  into  it.  Stir  for  a  moment,  add 
the  rest  of  the  milk,  strain,  and  cool.  Whip  the  cream  to 


FROZEN  DISHES.  47 1 

a  froth  with  a  churn   or  an  egg  beater,   stir  it   into    the 
cooled  preparation,  and  freeze. 

WHIPPED   CREAM. 

A  large  variety  of  delicious  and  attractive  desserts  may 
be  made  from  whipped  cream.  The  cream  must  be  of 
good  consistency  or  it  will  not  whip,  and  it  must  not  be 
too  thick  or  the  result  will  be  equally  unsatisfactory. 
A  pint  of  cream  will  more  than  double  in  size  when 
whipped,  hence  it  is  not  as  costly  a  dessert  as  many  may 
suppose. 

The  first  essential  to  success  in  whipping  cream  is  to 
have  both  cream  and  utensils  very  cold.  Set  the  cream 
on  the.  ice  for  at  least  an  hour,  to  thoroughly  chill  it ; 
then  pour  it  into  a  deep  bowl.  It  will  expedite  the  whip- 
ping to  set  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  pounded  ice,  but  this  is 
not  absolutely  necessary.  Use  for  whipping  a  whip- 
churn  (see  "  Kitchen  Utensils,"  page  46),  or  a  Dover  egg- 
beater.  The  egg-beater  will  make  the  cream  light, 
but  it  gives  it  a  different  consistency  from  that  obtained 
by  churning ;  and  there  will  not  be  quite  so  much 
froth  produced  from  the  cream.  Place  the  churn  in 
the  cream,  hold  the  cylinder  firmly,  and  keep  the  cover 
in  place  with  the  left  hand.  Tip  the  churn  slightly  that 
the  cream  may  flow  out  at  the  bottom.  Work  the  dasher 
with  a  light,  short  stroke  upward,  and  a  hard,  pushing 
stroke  downward.  The  first  bubbles  to  appear  will  be 
large  and  will  not  remain  firm,  and  they  should  be 
stirred  down  with  a  spoon.  When  the  bowl  is  full  of 
froth,  skim  this  off  into  a  granite  pan  placed  on  ice. 
Take  off  the  froth  only,  and  do  not  take  it  off  below  the 
holes  in  the  cylinder,  as  the  cream  whips  better  when 


472  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

they  are  covered.  Do  not  use  too  large  a  bowl  for  the 
reason  that  all  the  cream  will  not  whip.  If  the  cream 
is  to  be  used  as  a  garnish,  drain  it,  when  whipped,  on  a 
hair  sieve  placed  over  a  pan  ;  and  keep  it  on  ice  until 
stiff  enough  to  retain  its  shape. 

Creams  that  are  to  be  moulded  are  made  stiffer  by  the 
use  of  gelatine. 

Mousses. 

A  mousse  is  a  dish  made  with  whipped  cream  and 
frozen  without  being  stirred.  When  the  mass  is  cut  into, 
it  has  a  texture  like  fine  moss,  hence  its  name.  The 
labor  of  preparing  this  dish  is  slight,  but  it  requires  at 
least  five  hours  to  freeze  or  harden  it.  In  moulding,  if 
the  mould  is  lined  with  white  paper,  the  mousse  will  have 
a  smoother  and  handsomer  appearance  ;  but  it  needs  a 
little  longer  time  to  freeze  when  the  paper  is  used.  A 
mousse  may  be  made  with  any  flavoring  or  fruit  desired, 
taking  the  name  of  the  flavoring  or  fruit  used. 

STRAWBERRY    MoUSS6. 

One  pint  of  strawberries. 
One-half  pint  of  sugar. 
One  pint  of  cream. 
One-eighth  package  of  gelatine. 
One  table-spoonful  of  cold  water. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 

Mash  the  berries  with  the  sugar,  and  let  them  stand 
two  hours,  placing  the  gelatine  at  the  same  time  in  the 
cold  water.  At  the  end  of  the  two  hours  pack  a  two- 
quart  mould  in  enough  ice  and  salt  to  bring  the  packing 
up  to  the  cover  of  the  mould.  Rub  the  fruit  through  a 


FROZEN  DISHES.  473 

strainer,  pour  the  boiling  water  on  the  soaked  gelatine, 
and  when  the  latter  has  dissolved,  put  it  with  the  fruit. 
Set  the  basin  containing  this  mixture  of  fruit,  sugar  and 
gelatine  in  a  pan  of  ice-water,  and  stir  it  until  it  begins  to 
thicken.  Have  the  cream  already  whipped  and  drained, 
and  add  it  to  the  thickened  fruit,  stirring  gently.  When 
the  whole  is  smooth,  turn  it  into  the  mould,  lay  over  it  a 
sheet  of  white  paper,  put  on  the  cover  of  the  mould,  and 
coat  the  edge  with  melted  suet  to  keep  out  the  salt  water. 
Pack  ice  and  salt  over  the  mould,  covering  it  entirely, 
and  freeze  five  or  six  hours.  At  serving  time  remove  the 
mould  from  the  ice,  wipe  off  the  suet  and  any  particles  of 
salt,  and  dip  the  mould  for  a  moment  in  tepid  water. 
Wipe  it  carefully,  and  turn  out  the  mousse  on  a  flat  dish. 
This  dessert  should  be  cut  in  smooth  slices  as  it  is  served. 

ORANGE  Souffle. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

Six  eggs. 

One  pint  of  orange  juice. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

One  pound  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

One-half  cupful  of  hot  water. 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  cold  water,  and  let  it  soak 
an  hour ;  then  add  the  boiling  water,  and  stir  until  dis- 
solved. Place  the  orange  juice  and  sugar  together  at  the 
same  time  that  the  gelatine  is  put  in  the  cold  water,  and 
let  them  stand  an  hour  also.  Beat  the  yolks  light,  whip 
and  drain  the  cream,  mix  the  fruit,  sugar  and  yolks 
together  in  a  tin  basin,  stand  the  basin  in  a  pan  of  ice- 
water,  strain  the  gelatine  into  it  and  stir  carefully  until 


474  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  whole  begins  to  thicken..  Then  stir  in  the  whipped 
cream  lightly  and  quickly,  and  freeze  for  two  hours. 
Serve  with 

MONTROSE    SAUCE. 
One  pint  of  cream. 
Three  eggs  (yolks). 
One-quarter  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  gelatine. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Cover  the  gelatine  with  the  water,  and  let  it  soak  half  an 
hour.  Place  half  the  cream  on  the  fire  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, and  set  this  in  another  containing  boiling  water.  Beat 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light,  add  to  them  the  rest  of  the 
cream,  and  stir  the  whole  into  the  boiling  cream.  Add  the 
sugar  and  cook  about  a  minute,  when  the  custard  should 
thicken ;  then  add  the  gelatine,  and  when  it  is  dissolved, 
remove  the  pan  from  the  fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  also 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  brandy  and  five  of  sherry,  if  liquors 
are  not  objectionable.  Mix  the  sauce  thoroughly,  and 
set  it  away  to  cool. 

The  above  named  quantities  for  the  souffle  will  suffice 
for  ten  persons.  By  changing  the  flavoring  and  adding 
sugar  accordingly  endless  varieties  of  souffle  may  be 
made  by  the  same  recipe. 

FROZEN  RICE  PUDDING,  WITH  ORANGE  GLACE. 

One-half  cupful  of  rice. 

One  quart  of  cream. 

Six  eggs  (yolks). 

One  pint  of  water. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

One  and  one-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 


FROZEN  DISHES.  475 

Wash  the  rice  well,  put  it  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler 
with  the  pint  of  water,  and  boil  half  an  hour.  Drain 
the  rice  well,  cover  it  with  all  but  one-half  a  cupful  of  the 
milk,  and  boil  half  an  hour  longer.  During  this  boiling 
whip  the  cream,  and  when  this  has  been  well  drained, 
add  that  portion  which  will  not  froth  and  has  drained 
from  the  whipping,  to  the  rice  and  milk.  Set  the 
whipped  cream  in  a  cold  place  until  needed.  Press  the 
rice  through  a  wire  sieve,  and  return  it  to  the  double 
boiler  with  the  milk  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Beat  the 
yolks  light,  add  to  them  the  half  cupful  of  the  milk 
reserved,  and  when  both  are  well  mixed,  stir  them  into 
the  boiling  rice  and  milk.  Stir  well,  and  cook  until  the 
preparation  begins  to  thicken ;  then  remove  it  from  the 
fire,  add  the  vanilla,  and  turn  it  out  to  cool.  When 
cold,  place  the  pudding  in  the  freezer  and  freeze  it 
nicely.  When  frozen,  stir  in  the  whipped  cream,  remove 
the  dasher,  scrape  down  the  rice  adhering  to  it,  and  let 
the  pudding  remain  in  the  freezer  for  two  hours. 

FOR    THE  GLACE. 

One  dozen  oranges. 
One-quarter  of  a  lemon  (juice). 
One  pound  of  sugar. 
Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  water. 

Boil  the  sugar  and  the  water  together  for  ten  minutes, 
skim,  and  add  the  lemon-juice.  Peel  the  oranges,  sepa- 
rate them  into  sections,  and  remove  all  the  white  pith 
with  a  small  knife.  Dip  a  few  of  the  pieces  at  a  time  in 
the  hot  syrup,  and  lay  them  out  upon  a  flat 'dish;  and 
when  all  have  been  thus  treated,  pour  the  remaining 
syrup  over  them,  and  set  them  on  the  ice  to  cool. 


4/6  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

At  serving  time  lift  the  mould  from  the  freezer,  wipe  it 
well,  dip  it  a  moment  in  tepid  water,  and  turn  out  the 
contents.  Heap  the  oranges  on  top  and  around  the 
base  of  the  pudding,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  the  whole. 
Serve  at  once.  This  is  a  most  attractive  dish. 

WATER  ICES  OR  SHERBETS. 

These  are  made  of  fruit  juice,  sugar  and  water,  the 
simplest  varieties  being  produced  by  mixing  these  three 
ingredients  together  and  freezing.  A  richer  and 
smoother  ice,  however,  is  made  by  first  boiling  the  sugar 
and  water  together,  and  then  adding  the  fruit  juice  and 
freezing.  It  takes  nearly  twice  as  long  to  freeze  the 
preparation  when  made  with  the  boiled  sugar  and  water 
as  when  the  uncooked  mixture  is  used.  The  packing 
must  be  arranged  the  same  as  for  ice-cream. 

Sherbets  are  usually  served  at  the  end  of  a  dinner,  but 
they  are  sometimes  eaten  before  the  game  instead  of 
a  Roman  punch.  They  may  be  served  in  glasses,  in 
orange  baskets,  in  fancy  paper  cases  or  in  a  mould. 
Sherbet  is  often  combined  with  ice-cream,  two  layers  of 
the  latter  being  allowed  to  one  of  the  former. 

ORANGE  ICE. 

One  pint  of  orange  juice. 
One  pint  of  sugar. 
Rind  of  two  of  the  oranges. 
One  quart  of  water. 
Two  lemons  (juice). 

Put  the  sugar  and  the  water  on  to  boil,  add  the  grated 
rind  of  two  of  the  oranges,  boil  five  minutes,  and  set  the 
liquid  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  orange  and 


FROZEN  DISHES.  477 

lemon-juice,   mix  well,  strain  through  a  cloth,   turn  the 
mixture  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 

Raspberry,  strawberry,  cherry  and  other  ices  are  made 
in  the  same  way. 

LEMON    ICE. 

One-half  pint  of  lemon-juice. 
Rind  of  two  of  the  lemons. 
One  pint  of  sugar. 
One  quart  of  water. 

Make  the  same  as  orange  ice. 

SORBET. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  an  ice  or  sherbet,  but  it  is 
not  frozen  nearly  so  long,  usually  but  twelve  or  fifteen 
minutes.  The  finest  varieties  of  sorbet  are  made  with 
a  combination  of  several  kinds  of  fruit.  One  sort  is 
made  with  the  following  ingredients  : 

One  pint  of  sugar. 
One  quart  of  water. 
One-half  pint  of  orange  juice. 
One  pint  of  chopped  pineapple. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon-juice. 

Boil  the  water,  sugar  and  pineapple  together  for 
twenty  minutes,  add  the  lemon  and  orange  juice,  and 
when  cold  strain  and  freeze. 

ROMAN    PUNCH. 

This  is  served  at  dinner  after  the  roast  and  is  usu'ally 
eaten  from  glasses. 

Six  lemons  (juice). 
One  orange  (juice). 


4/8  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Two  wine-glassfuls  of  sherry. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  Jamaica  rum. 
One  and  a-quarter  pint  of  sugar. 
Two  and  a-quarter  pints  of  water. 
Four  eggs  (whites). 

Boil  together  for  half  an  hour  a  quart  of  the  water 
and  a  pint  of  the  sugar,  add  the  fruit  juice,  and  set  the 
mixture  away  to  cool.  When  it  is  cold,  place  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  sugar  and  the  same  of  water  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  While  this 
is  cooking,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  beat 
the  hot  syrup  into  the  froth,  pouring  it  from  the  sauce- 
pan in  a  thin  stream,  and  beating  all  the  time.  Beat 
this  mixture  about  four  minutes  after  all  the  syrup 
has  been  added,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Place  the 
punch  mixture  in  the  freezer,  and  freeze  for  twenty  min- 
utes, turning  the  freezer  all  the  time.  At  the  end  of 
the  twenty  minutes  remove  the  cover,  take  out  the 
beater,  and  add  the  wine,  the  rum  and  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beating  well  with  a  spoon  to  thoroughly  mix  the 
new  ingredients  with  the  frozen  punch.  Cover,  and  set 
away  for  two  hours  before  using. 

If  a  stronger  punch  be  desired,  use  for  the  above 
quantity  two  wine-glassfuls  of  rum  and  two  of  strong 
green  tea,  omitting  the  sherry. 

FROZEN    FRUITS. 

Frozen  fruits  are  made  the  same  as  a  water  ice,  the 
fruits  being  first  mashed  or  cut  up  and  then  used  without 
straining.  Canned  fruits  may  be  used,  in  which  case  but 
half  the  sugar  mentioned  in  the  following  recipes  should 
be  allowed. 


FROZEN  DISHES.  479 

FROZEN    STRAWBERRIES. 

One  quart  of  strawberries. 
One  quart  of  water. 
Two  lemons  (juice). 
One  pound  of  sugar. 

Mash  the  berries  with  a  wooden  masher,  or  put  them 
through  the  potato  strainer.  Add  to  the  pulp  the  sugar 
and  lemon-juice,  and  let  all  stand  an  hour;  then  put  in 
the  water,  and  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  after  which 
turn  the  mixture  into  the  freezer,  and  freeze. 

FROZEN  PEACHES. 

Two  pounds  of  peaches. 
One  and  a-half  pound  of  sugar. 
One  quart  of  water. 
Six  peach  kernels. 

Pare  the  peaches,  and  extract  the  pits  ;  pound  six  of 
the  kernels  to  a  paste,  add  them  to  the  sugar,  boil  the 
sugar  and  water  together  for  five  minutes,  strain,  and 
set  the  syrup  away  to  cool.  Mash  the  peaches  as 
directed  in  the  preceding  recipe  ;  and  when  the  syrup  is 
cold,  place  the  peach  pulp  with  it,  stir  well,  turn  the 
mixture  into  the  freezer  and  freeze.  Half  a  tea-spoonful 
of  cochineal  may  be  added,  if  the  peaches  seem 
colorless. 

FROZEN    RASPBERRIES. 

Two  quarts  of  raspberries. 
One  lemon  (juice). 
One  pint  of  water. 
One  pint  of  sugar. 

Mash   the  berries  and   sugar   together,  and    let  them 


480  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

stand    for    two    hours ;  then    add    the    water  and  lemon- 
juice,  and  freeze. 

Blackberries  are  frozen  in  the  same  way,  but  the  juice 
of  three  lemons  is  needed. 

FROZEN  ORANGES. 

One  dozen  oranges. 
Two  lemons  (juice), 
One  quart  of  water. 
One  pound  of  sugar. 

Rub  the  rind  of  three  of  the  oranges  well  into  the 
sugar;  then  peel  the  oranges,  open  the  sections,  and 
take  out  all  the  cells  or  pulp.  Add  to  the  orange  the  sugar 
and  lemon  juice,  and  let  the  whole  stand  an  hour ;  then 
put  in  the  water,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and 
freeze. 

FROZEN  APRICOT. 

One  can  of  apricots. 

One  pint  of  sugar. 

One  quart  of  water. 

One  pint  of  whipped  cream  (if  desired). 

Cut  the  fruit  into  very  small  pieces,  and  add  the  water 
and  the  sugar.  As  soon  as  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  freeze 
the  mixture  ;  when  it  is  partly  frozen,  stir  in  the  whipped 
cream,  and  finish  the  freezing.  The  cream  may  be 
omitted,  if  not  at  hand. 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES. 

"Custards  for  supper  and  an  endless  host  of  such  lady-like  lux- 
uries." 

SHELLEY. 

BOILED  OR  SOFT  CUSTARD. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Three  eggs  (yolks). 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

A  boiled  custard  is  much  smoother  when  made  with 
only  the  yolks  of  the  eggs.  If  a  quart  of  custard  is 
desired,  five  large  eggs  will  be  sufficient.  Place  all  but 
half  a  cupful  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double 
boiler.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  thoroughly,  and  add 
to  them  the  half  cupful  of  milk  reserved.  When  the 
milk  on  the  fire  boils,  turn  into  it  the  egg  mixture,  add- 
ing a  little  at  a  time,  and  stirring  constantly.  A  boiled 
custard  requires  careful  watching  to  prevent  it  breaking. 
The  cook  may  readily  discover  when  the  milk  is  thick  by 
the  manner  in  which  the  spoon  goes  through  it.  The 
moment  the  custard  has  thickened  remove  it  from  the 
fire.  At  no  time  does  a  custard  require  more  than  two 
minute's  boiling  after  the  eg<;s  are  added,  and  sometimes 
31  481 


482  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

it  will  thicken  in  one  minute,  especially  if  the  eggs  are 
particularly  nice  and  fresh.  On  taking  the  custard  from 
the  fire  add  the  salt  and  seasoning,  and  set  it  away  to 
cool. 

Many  cooks  direct  the  mixing  of  the  yolks  with  the 
sugar  only  and  adding  them  to  the  boiling  milk  in  this 
way;  but  the  writer  has  never  found  this  a  success,  as 
the  yolks  grain  and  the  custard  does  not  become  smooth. 
When  adding  eggs  to  any  boiling  liquid,  they  should 
always  be  thinned  with  water  or  milk. 

FLOATING    ISLAND. 

This  is  made  with  the  ingredients  mentioned  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  While  the  milk  in  the  boiler  is  heat- 
ing, have  ready  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiffly,  beaten,  and 
place  them  by  spoonfuls  on  the  boiling  milk,  placing 
no  more  than  can  easily  float.  Cook  two  minutes,  turn 
each  spoonful  of  egg,  and  cook  the  other  side  two 
minutes  also ;  then  lift  the  eggs  from  the  milk  upon  a 
skimmer,  and  place  them  in  a  wide,  shallow  dish.  Put 
more  spoonfuls  of  the  raw  egg  in  the  milk,  and  repeat  the 
same  process  until  all  the  egg  has  been  cooked.  These 
pieces  are  the  "  islands."  When  all  are  cooked,  send  the 
milk  through  a  strainer,  measure  it,  add  sufficient  more  to 
make  one  pint,  and  return  it  to  the  boiler  to  heat.  When 
scalding,  make  a  soft  custard  with  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  as 
in  the  preceding  recipe.  Pour  the  custard  under  the 
eggs,  place  the  whole  in  the  ice-chest,  and  serve  as  cold 
as  possible. 

MERINGUE     CUSTARD. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  soft  custard.     When  the  cus- 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES.    483 

tard  is  made,  set  it  aside  in  a  rather  small  dish  to  cool. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  to  them  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  stir  well.  Heap  the 
egg  on  a  plate  about  the  size  of  the  top  of  the  dish  in 
which  the  custard  was  placed,  and  stand  it  in  the  oven  in 
a  good  heat  to  brown  delicately.  When  brown  loosen  the 
meringue  from  the  plate,  and  slide  it  off  gently  on  top  of 
the  custard.  Serve  very  cold  with  sponge-cake. 

SOFT   CUSTARD    WITH  CORN-STARCH. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Two  eggs  (yolks). 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Place  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  cold  milk  with  the 
corn-starch,  and  stir  well.  Beat  the  yolks  light,  add  the 
same  quantity  of  milk  to  them,  stir  until  smooth,  and 
then  place  them  with  the  dissolved  corn-starch.  Set  the 
rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when 
it  is  scalding,  stir  in  the  mixture  of  egg  and  corn-starch. 
Cook  three  minutes,  season,  and  set  aside  to  cool.  Cus- 
tard with  corn-starch  is  not  hard  to  make,  as  there  is  little 
or  no  danger  of  its  breaking. 

BAKED   CUSTARD.   . 

Four  eggs.  / 

One  quart  of  milk. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two-thirds  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  grated. 


484  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  eggs,  both  yolks  and  whites,  well  together, 
and  add  to  them  the  milk,  stirring  it  in  by  degrees  ;  then 
put  in  the  salt.  Stir  the  nutmeg  into  the  sugar,  and  add 
this  also,  beating  well.  Let  the  whole  stand  ten  minutes 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ;  then  pour  the  mixture  into  a 
small  pudding-dish,  and  bake.  Baked  custard  should 
never  boil,  but  the  heat  should  be  moderate.  When  a 
knife-blade  inserted  in  the  custard  will  come  from  it  clear 
and  not  milky,  the  custard  has  baked  enough.  This  cus- 
tard may  also  be  cooked  in  cups  made  for  the  purpose. 
Set  the  cups  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water,  and  place  the  pan 
in  the  oven,  baking  the  custard  in  this  way.  When  done, 
lift  the  cups  from  the  water,  and  set  them  away  to  cool. 
When  the  nutmeg  is  mixed  with  the  sugar,  it  will  be 
found  evenly  distributed  through  the  milk,  and  will  not 
all  float  on  top. 

CUSTARD  Souffle. 

This  makes  a  delicious  dessert,  but  is  rather  an  expen- 
sive one.  It  is  served  hot  and  admits  of  no  delay  after  it 
is  cooked. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
Four  eggs. 

Rub  the  butter  into  the  flour.  Place  on  the  fire  in  a 
milk  boiler  or  a  small  sauce-pan  all  but  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  the  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light,  and 
add  to  them  the  milk  reserved.  When  the  milk  on  the 
fire  boils,  add  it  by  degrees  to  the  flour  and  butter,  stir- 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES.    485 

ring  carefully.  Replace  the  milk  in  the  sauce-pan,  cook 
it  eight  minutes;  then  add  tiie  yolks  of  the  eggs  and 
sugar,  remove  the  mixture  at  once  from  the  fire,  and 
set  it  aside  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beaten  stiff,  and  bake  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish  for 
twenty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  at  once  with 

CREAM    SAUCE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  cream  or  milk. 
(  Four  table-spoonfuls  of  wine,  or 
{  One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

If  the  extract  is  used  instead  of  the  wine,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  additional  of  cream  or  milk  should  be  used. 
Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  sugar,  beating  all 
the  time.  When  light  and  creamy,  gradually  add  the 
wine,  and  then  the  cream,  a  little  at  a  time.  When  the 
mixture  is  quite  smooth,  set  the  bowl  containing  it  in  a 
basin  of  hot  water,  and  stir  until  the  whole  is  smooth  and 
creamy,  but  no  longer ;  it  will  take  a  few  minutes.  This 
is  a  very  fine  sauce,  and  if  well  beaten,  and  not  kept  in 
the  hot  water  long  enough  to  melt  the  sugar,  it  will  be 
white  and  foamy  throughout. 

CREAMS. 

There  are  no  more  delicious  desserts  made  than  those 
in  which  cream  is  used.  They  are  exceedingly  easy  to 
make,  and  as  they  may  be  prepared  some  time  before  din- 
ner, they  have  the  advantage  of  being  out  of  the  way 
when  the  meal  is  being  prepared.  These  dainties  are 


486  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

very  cheap  in  the  country,  where  cream  is  plentiful,  and, 
in  fact,  they  are  not  expensive  in  the  city,  since  cream, 
when  whipped,  is  more  than  doubled  in  quantity.  For 
whipping  cream,  see  page  471. 

PLAIN    WHIPPED    CREAM. 

Sweeten  the  cream  to  taste,  and  add  vanilla  to  flavor 
rather  strongly ;  then  whip  the  cream  light,  set  it  on 
the  ice  until  cold,  and  serve.  Whipped  cream  may  be 
eaten  in  many  ways.  With  strawberries  nothing  is  dain- 
tier. It  is  sometimes  served  in  glasses,  sponge  cake 
being  passed  with  it. 

CHARLOTTE    RUSSE.       (PLAIN.) 

One  pint  of  cream. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
Sponge  cake. 

Mix  the  cream,  vanilla  and  sugar  together,  and  set 
them  on  the  ice  for  an  hour,  to  chill  thoroughly.  Then 
whip  to  a  stiff  froth,  skim  the  froth  off  into  a  sieve  to 
drain,  and  whip  the  liquid  that  drains  from  it.  All  the 
cream  will  not  whip  light.  Set  the  froth  on  the  ice,  or  in 
a  very  cold  place.  At  serving  time  line  a  glass  dish  with 
lady-fingers  or  sponge  cake,  and  turn  in  the  whipped 
cream.  Loaf  sponge  cake  is  very  satisfactory  for  this 
dish.  Cut  the  slices  not  too  thin,  and  lay  them  side  by 
side  on  a  platter  or  a  flat  dish.  With  a  table-spoon  dis- 
tribute the  thin  cream  that  would  not  whip  among  the 
slices,  to  moisten  them  ;  then  heap  the  whipped  cream 
upon  the  cake,  and  serve. 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES.    487 

CHARLOTTE    RUSSE  WITH    EGGS. 

One  pint  of  cream. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Sponge  cake. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

Charlotte  russe  made  in  this  way  will  be  firm  and  will 
harden  sufficiently  after  being  on  the  ice.  Place  the 
sugar  and  vanilla  with  the  cream,  and  whip  as  previously 
directed,  having  the  cream  very  cold.  Beat  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  stiff,  and  add  them  to  the  whipped  cream. 
The  sponge  cake  should  be  baked  in  a  large  sheet 
on  a  dripping-pan  Cut  an  oval  piece  from  the  cake 
to  fit  the  bottom  of  the  charlotte  pan,  or  whatever 
the  charlotte  russe  is  to  be  served  in,  and  cut  even- 
sized  parallelograms  to  fit  the  sides.  Fill  the  dish  with 
the  cream  as  soon  as  whipped,  and  set  it  on  the  ice. 
Should  there  be  only  sufficient  cake  to  cover  the  sides, 
put  a  paper  cut  the  proper  shape  in  the  bottom  of  the 
mould,  and  heap  in  the  cream  the  same  as  if  the  bottom 
were  cake. 

CHARLOTTE    RUSSE    WITH    GELATINE. 

One-quarter  box  of  gelatine. 

One  pint  of  cream. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  table-spoonful  of  wine. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  cold  water. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  boiling  water. 

One-half  cupful  of  powdered  sugar. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  until  it  is  softened. 
Whip  the  cream,  placing  the  froth  as  it  is  made  in  a  pan 


488  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

set  in  ice-water ;  and  when  all  is  whipped,  sift  over  it  the 
sugar,  and  add  the  vanilla  and  wine.  Pour  the  boiling 
water  upon  the  gelatine,  and  when  it  is  dissolved,  strain 
it  over  the  whipped  cream.  Then  stir  (not  beat)  rap- 
idly, resting  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  upon  the  bottom  of 
the  pan,  and  turning  the  pan  with  the  left  hand  while 
stirring  with  the  right.  Stir  until  the  gelatine  is  well 
mixed  with  the  cream,  and  when  the  charlotte  is  nearly 
stiff  enough  to  drop,  turn  it  into  the  mould,  which  should 
be  in  readiness  nicely  lined  with  sponge-cakeH  as  directed 
in  the  preceding  recipe. 

CHARLOTTE   RUSSE    WITHOUT    CREAM. 

This  charlotte  is,  of  course,  not  to  be  compared  with 
that  made  with  cream,  but  it  makes  an  excellent  substi- 
tute when  cream  cannot  be  obtained.  'For  a  three-pint 
mould  allow 

One-third  of  a  package  of  gelatine. 

One  quart  of  mijk. 

Four  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  a  cupful  of  the  cold 
milk.  Beat  the  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  together, 
and  add  one-half  a  cupful  of  the  milk.  Set  the  rest  of  the 
milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double  boiler,  and  when  it  is  scald- 
ing, pour  in  the  egg  mixture  and  cook  for  five  minutes ; 
then  add  the  gelatine.,  and  stir  until  it  is  dissolved,  after 
which  remove  from  the  fire,  and  cool.  Place  the  prepara- 
tion in  a  bowl  of  ice-water  to  chill  thoroughly,  and  when 
it  is  very  cold,  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  unbeaten  ;  beat 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES.     489 

until  the  whole  is  thick  and  frothy,  turn    it   into   a   cake- 
lined  mould,  and  set  away  to  harden. 

BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

This  dessert  is  made  of  whipped  cream  and  gelatine, 
with  or  without  eggs,  fruits  being  frequently  added  to 
flavor.  It  is  served  in  one  large  mould  or  in  individual 
moulds.  In  making  Bavarian  cream,  do  not  add  the 
whipped  cream  to  the  ingredients  with  the  gelatine,  until 
they  are  quite  cold  and  are  beginning  to  "  set  "  or  the 
cream  will  dissolve.  The  ingredients  will  "  set "  very 
quickly,  if  placed  on  the  ice.  All  varieties  of  this  cream 
make  delicious  charlotte  russe.  They  are  sometimes 
frozen,  in  which  case  the  whipped  cream  is  not  added 
until  the  custard  (or  ingredients  with  the  gelatine)  is 
partly  frozen. 

PLAIN    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  charlotte  russe  with  gela- 
tine (see  page  487),  omitting  the  wine. 

VANILLA    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

One  pint  of  cream. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Four  eggs  (yolks). 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

Whip  the  cream  light,  skimming  the  froth  off,  and  lay- 
ing it  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  When  all  is  whipped,  set  the 
sieve  in  a  cold  place  until  the  cream  is  needed  for  use. 


496  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOO^. 

Place  the  gelatine  in  the  water  to  soak,  and  if  required  in 
a  hurry,  set  the  cup  containing  it  in  a  warm  place  ;  it  is 
much  better,  however,  to  let  it  soak  for  two  hours  in  a 
cool  place.  It  will  soften  in  a  warm  place  in  half  an 
hour,  and  will  then  be  ready  for  use  by  the  time  the  rest 
of  the  cream  is  prepared.  Reserve  a  large  half-cupful  of 
the  milk,  and  place  the  balance  on  the  fire  in  a  double 
boiler.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  light,  and  add  to 
them  the  half  cupful  of  cold  milk.  When  the  milk  in 
the  boiler  is  boiling,  stir  in  the  yolks,  and  cook  two  min- 
utes ;  then  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the  gelatine 
(which  should  be  soaked  by  this  time),  straining  it  into 
the  milk.  Also  stir  in  the  sugar,  and  when  the  prepara- 
tion is  cold,  beat  in  the  vanilla,  stirring  until  all  is  quite 
smooth.  Then  stir  the  whipped  cream  in  very  lightly, 
until  well  incorporated,  place  the  mixture  in  a  mould  or 
moulds,  and  set  it  on  the  ice  or  in  some  cool  place.  The 
cream  should  not  be  turned  out  for  at  least  four  hours,  as 
it  requires  fully  that  length  of  time  for  the  gelatine  to 
harden  it  sufficiently. 

CHOCOLATE    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  the  vanilla  cream  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate  be- 
ing added,  and  but  a  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla  being 
used.  Melt  the  chocolate  on  the  fire,  placing  it  in  a  little 
of  the  cold  milk,  and  stirring  and  cooking  until  smooth. 
Add  it,  strained,  to  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  which  should  be 
beaten,  and  half  a  cupful  of  the  cold  milk  added,  the 
same  as  in  the  vanilla  cream  ;  then  stir  all  into  the  boil- 
ing milk,  and  finish  as  directed. 


CUSTARDS,  CREAMS,  AND  GELATINE  JELLIES.     491 

STRAWBERRY    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

One  quart  of  strawberries. 
One-half  pint  of  sugar. 
One  pint  of  cream. 
One-half  box  of  gelatine. 
One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Carefully  pick  the  berries  over,  mash  them  well, 
squeeze  them  through  a  colander,  and  add  the  sugar  to 
the  juice.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water,  and  when  dis- 
solved, add  it  to  the  strawberry  juice.  Whip  the  cream 
light,  draining  it  on  a  sieve,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place 
until  needed.  Place  the  juice  and  gelatine  on  the  ice  or 
in  a  cold  place,  stir  it  smooth,  and  when  it  begins  to 
"  set/'  stir  in  the  whipped  cream  carefully.  Line  a  mould 
with  some  whole  strawberries,  fill  it  with  the  cream,  and 
set  it  on  the  ice  or  in  a  cold  place.  Turn  the  cream  out 
of  the  mould  when  ready  to  serve,  and  send  to  table  with 
fresh  strawberries  arranged  about  it. 

PEACH    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

Eighteen  peaches. 
One-half  pint  of  sugar. 
One  and  a-half  pint  of  cream. 
One-half  box  of  gelatine. 
One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

Place  the  gelatine  in  the  water  to  soak.  Peel  and 
stone  the  peaches,  cut  them  up  fine,  and  set  them  on  the 
fire  in  a  small  stew-pan.  Watch  them  carefully,  adding  a 
little  water,  if  needed ;  but,  if  possible,  stew  them  in 
their  own  juices.  Mash  them  as  they  cook,  and  when  re- 
duced to  a  fine,  smooth  sauce,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir 
until  it  is  dissolved ;  then  squeeze  all  through  a  fine 


492  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

colander,  if  there  are  any  lumps.  Now  add  to  the  peaches 
the  dissolved  gelatine  and  half  a  pint  of  the  cream,  stir- 
ring well,  and  set  in  a  cold  place.  Whip  the  rest  of  the 
cream,  and  drain  well,  and  as  soon  as  the  gelatine  begins 
to  set,  add  the  whipped  cream  to  it,  turn  the  whole  into  a 
mould,  and  place  it  on  the  ice  for  four  hours. 

APRICOT    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

This  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  the  peach  cream, 
using  a  pint  can  or  a  pint  of  apricots  instead  of  the 
peaches. 

PINEAPPLE     BAVARIAN     CREAM. 

One  pineapple. 
One-half  pint  of  sugar. 
One  pint  of  cream. 
One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 
One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water.  Whip  the  cream  light, 
drain,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place.  Grate  the  pineapple, 
add  to  it  the  sugar,  and  simmer  in  a  porcelain-lined 
sauce-pan  for  fifteen  minutes.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine 
to  the  pineapple,  set  the  mixture  in  a  cool  place,  and 
when  it  begins  to  congeal,  stir  very  smooth,  and  add  the 
whipped  cream.  Stir  the  cream  very  carefully,  turn  it 
into  a  mould,  and  set  it  on  the  ice  for  four  hours. 

ORANGE    BAVARIAN    CREAM. 

Three  oranges  (juice). 
One  orange  (rind). 
One  pint  of  cream. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 


CREAMS.  493 

One-quarter  cupful  of  cold  water. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  hot  water. 
One-quarter  box  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours  in  a 
cool  place.  Grate  into  a  bowl  the  yellow  rind  from  one 
of  the  oranges,  and  squeeze  the  juice  from  three  into  the 
same  bowl.  Whip  and  drain  the  cream,  and  place  it  in  a 
cool  place.  When  the  gelatine  is  soaked,  add  to  it  the 
hot  water,  stirring  well ;  and  whe'n  it  is  completely  dis- 
solved, pour  it  into  the  bowl  with  the  juice.  Strain  this 
mixture  into  a  tin  basin,  set  it  on  the  ice  or  in  a  cool 
place,  and  until  the  gelatine  commences  to  thicken  the 
juice ;  then  gradually  add  the  whipped  cream,  stirring 
thoroughly  from  the  bottom  of  the  pan.  Take  up  a 
spoonful  of  the  mixture,  and  pour  it  back  ;  and  if  it  does 
not  immediately  sink,  the  mixture  is  thick  enough  to 
mould.  It  may  be  poured  into  a  mould  lined  with 
sponge  cake,  if  desired;  or  an  unlined  mould  may  be 
used. 

SPANISH    CREAM. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

One  pint  of  milk. 

Three  eggs  (yolks  and  whites). 

Five  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  and  one-half  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  water. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  water.  Place  all  but  half  a 
cupful  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  double-boiler.  Sepa- 
rate the  yolks  of  the  eggs  from  the  whites,  beat  the  yolks 
light,  and  add  to  them  the  half-cupful  of  milk  reserved. 
When  the  milk  in  the  boiler  is  boiling,  stir  in  the  dis- 
solved gelatine,  and  cook  one  minute.  Then  add  the 


494  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

yolks  and  milk,  and  cook  one  minute  longer,  or  until  the 
whole  is  like  thick  cream.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
stiff,  and  just  before  taking  the  cream  from  the  fire,  add 
them  to  it,  stir  up  well,  and  at  once  remove  the  cream 
from  the  heat.  When  nearly  cold,  add  the  vanilla.  Stir 
well,  and  pour  the  cream  into  a  mould,  which  has  pre- 
viously been  dipped  in  cold  water.  Let  it  stand  in  a 
cold  place  until  the  next  day  ;  or  if  made  early  in  the 
morning  and  placed  at  once  on  the  ice,  it  will  be  ready 
for  a  late  evening  dinner.  Send  to  table  with  whipped 
cream,  and  serve  with  sponge  cake. 

AMERICAN    CREAM. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 
One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One  and  one-half  pint  of  milk. 
One  lemon  (juice). 

This  quantity  will  serve  eight  persons.  Cover  the  gel- 
atine with  the  cold  water,  and  soak  for  half  an  hour. 
Place  the  milk  in  a  double-boiler,  and  when  hot,  add  the 
gelatine ;  stir  until  dissolved,  remove  from  the  fire,  strain 
and  set  the  mixture  aside  to  cool.  When  it  is  cold,  add 
the  lemon-juice  and  sugar,  stir  well,  turn  the  cream  into  a 
mould,  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place  over  night.  Serve  with 
vanilla  sauce. 

CHOCOLATE.  WHIPS. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

One  square  of  Baker's  chocolate  (one  ounce). 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  sugar. 

Six  eggs. 

One  pint  of  cream. 


CREAMS.  495 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  table-spoonful  of  boiling  water. 

Scrape  the  chocolate  fine,  and  place  it  in  a  small  fry- 
ing pan  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar  and  the 
boiling  water.  Heat  in  a  double-boiler  all  but  half  a  pint 
of  the  milk  ;  and  when  the  chocolate  is  dissolved,  add  it 
to  the  boiling  milk,  stirring  well.  Beat  the  eggs  and  the 
rest  of  the  sugar  together,  add  to  them  the  half  pint  of 
milk  reserved,  and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk. 
Stir  until  the  custard  thickens,  add  the  salt,  and  set  away 
to  cool.  Season  the  cream  with  the  vanilla  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  sugar,  and  whip  it  to  a  stiff  froth. 
When  the  custard  is  cold,  half  fill  glasses  with  it,  and 
heap  the  whipped  cream  upon  it ;  or  it  may  be  served  in 
one  large  dish,  with  the  cream  heaped  on  top  of  the 
whole.  The  above  quantity  will  serve  eight  persons. 

PEACH    SPONGE. 

Two-thirds  of  a  quart  of  peaches. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

Four  eggs  (whites). 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  and  one-half  cupful  of  water. 

Peel  the  peaches,  and  cut  them  up  small,  measuring 
them  after  thus  prepared.  Place  the  gelatine  in  half  a 
cupful  of  water,  and  set  to  soak  for  two  hours  in  a  cool 
place;  or  if  hurried,  place  it  on  the  back  of  the  range, 
where  it  will  dissolve  in  half  an  hour.  The  dessert,  how- 
ever, will  not  be  of  so  fine  a  flavor  if  prepared  by  the 
latter  method.  Boil  the  rest  of  the  water  and  the  sugar 
together  for  fifteen  minutes.  Mash  the  peaches  fine, 


496  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

press  them  through  a  fine  colander,  and  turn  the  syrup 
over  them.  Place  the  sauce-pan  containing  the  mixture 
in  another  full  of  boiling  water,  and  cook  for  five  minutes, 
stirring  all  the  time.  Add  the  gelatine,  and  stir  for  five 
minutes  more ;  then  place  the  pan  in  cold  water,  and  stir 
the  sponge  until  it  begins  to  cool ;  also  add  the  whites 
of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  stir  until  the  whole  begins 
to  harden,  at  which  point  turn  it  into  a  mould,  and  set  in 
a  cold  place.  At  serving  time  turn  the  sponge  from  the 
mould,  and  send  to  table  with  cream  and  sugar. 

STRAWBERRY  SPONGE. 

One  quart  of  strawberries. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 

Four  eggs  (whites). 

One  and  one-half  cupful  of  water. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  lemon  (juice). 

This  is  prepared  a  little  different  from  the  peach 
sponge,  as  the  berries  are  not  cooked.  Soak  the  gela- 
tine in  half  a  cupful  of  the  water.  Mash  the  berries  and 
add  half  the  sugar  to  them  ;  when  this  is  dissolved,  press 
the  berries  through  ajsieve.  Boil  the  rest  of  the  sugar 
and  the  water  together  for  fifteen  minutes,  add  the  gela- 
tine to  this  boiling  syrup,  remove  from  the  fire  at  once, 
and  add  the  berries.  Place  the  pan  containing  the  prep- 
aration in  another  full  of  cold  water,  or  set  it  in  a  cold 
place  ;  and  beat  the  mixture  five  minutes,  until  cool  and 
beginning  to  thicken  slightly.  Then  add  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  well  whipped,  and  beat  well  until  the  whole  has 
thickened  considerably.  Pour  the  sponge  into  a  mould, 
and  set  it  away  to  harden.  Serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 


GELA  TINE  JELLIES.  497 

GELATINE  JELLIES. 

Gelatine  as  now  obtained  is  refined  and  clarified  dur- 
ing the  process  of  manufacture,  and  this  renders  it  unnec- 
essary to  use  the  white  of  eggs  for  clarifying,  as  was  for- 
merly the  case.  Many  cooks,  however,  prefer  to  further 
clarify  it  for  jellies,  producing  thereby  more  dainty  and 
inviting-looking  desserts.  When  the  egg  is  used  it  weak- 
ens the  gelatine,  so  that  a  little  more  of  the  latter  should 
be  allowed  than  if  the  egg  were  omitted. 

The  packages  of  all  the  various  brands  of  gelatine  on 
the  market  are  supposed  to  weigh  the  same — two  ounces 
without  the  wrappers.  Pink  gelatine  comes  in  sheets 
and  is  sold  by  grocers  by  the  ounce.  It  is  a  little  more 
expensive  than  the  plain  variety.  Allowing  half  pink 
and  half  plain  gelatine  will  impart  a  rich  pink  tint  to  a 
jelly  or  a  cream.  Very  many  desserts  are  now  made 
with  gelatine,  and  almost  invariably  they  should  stand 
over  night  before  being  used,  that  they  may  be  sure  to 
harden  sufficiently. 

Gelatine  has  some  peculiarities  which  many  house- 
keepers do  not  understand.  If  gelatine  is  kept  any 
length  of  time  in  a  warm  place,  a  disagreeable  odor  and 
flavor  will  be  developed  ;  while  if  soaked  in  cold  water  in 
a  cold  place,  these  objectionable  features  will  not  appear. 
The  latter  method  of  preparing  requires  more  time,  of 
course,  but  by  using  a  little  forethought  this  need  seldom 
cause  inconvenience. 

TO  CLEAR  JELLY. 

Allow  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  every  three  pints  of 
the  liquid.  Beat  the  whites  not  too  stiff,  add  one  cupful 


498  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

of  the  jelly  to  them,  and  beat  for  one  minute.  Stir  this 
mixture  into  the  rest  of  the  jelly,  and  place  the  whole  on 
the  fire  where  it  will  heat  slowly ;  and  when  bubbling,  set 
it  back  where  it  will  keep  at  the  boiling  point  for  half  an 
hour.  Keep  the  pan  covered,  and  at  the  end  of  the  half 
hour,  strain  the  jelly  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  then  run 
it  through  a  flannel  bag  that  has  been  wiung  out  of  hot 
water,  hanging  the  bag  up  after  the  jelly  has  been  poured 
into  it,  and  allowing  the  liquid  to  filter  slowly  through. 
After  this  filtering  process,  the  jelly  will  be  found  clear 
and  bright. 

TO    REMOVE    JELLY    FROM    THE    MOULD. 

Set  the  mould  in  tepid  water  until  it  is  evident  that  the 
sides  of  the  jelly  are  yielding  a  little.  If  the  mould  is 
made  of  tin,  this  will  require  but  half  a  minute ;  but  if 
made  of  earthenware,  it  will  take  three  times  as  long. 
Lift  the  mould  from  the  water,  wipe  it  carefully,  and, 
tipping  it  a  little  to  one  side,  loosen  the  jelly  very  gently 
with  a  knife.  Place  a  flat  dish  over  the  open  part  of  the 
mould,  and  turn  dish  and  mould  over  simultaneously; 
hold  them  in  this  position  a  moment,  and  then  carefully 
raise  the  mould. 

TO    SERVE    GELATINE   JELLY. 

The  manner  of  serving  these  jellies  may  be  rendered 
very  attractive.  Any  kind  of  ripe,  well-flavored  fruit  may 
be  embedded  in  the  jelly,  but  the  latter  must  be  cooled  in 
layers,  or  the  fruit  will  not  be  distributed  evenly  through 
the  mass.  To  effect  this,  put  in  a  layer  of  fruit,  and  wet 
it  with  some  of  the  liquid  jelly;  when  this  hardens,  cover 
with  the  jelly,  and  after  this  has  hardened,  put  in  another 


GELA  TINE  JELLIES.  499 

layer  of  fruit,  and  proceed  as  before.  Jellies  of  various 
colors  may  be  combined  in  layers.  To  make  marbled 
jelly,  allow  the  first  layer  to  but  partially  cool,  and  then 
put  in  the  second,  which  should  be  of  a  different  color, 
adding  this  layer  by  spoonfuls.  Another  pretty  way  of 
serving  is  to  cool  a  pink  and  a  light-colored  jelly  in  thin 
sheets,  pouring  the  liquid  upon  platters ;  and  when  the 
jelly  is  set  cut  it  into  tiny  squares.  Heap  the  pink 
squares  in  the  center  of  a  large  glass  dish,  and  surround 
them  with  the  lighter  kind.  The  jelly  may  also  be  served 
in  baskets  made  of  oranges.  To  make  these  baskets, 
choose  large,  fair  oranges.  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  on 
each  side  of  the  stem  about  half  way  through  the  orange, 
leaving  a  strip  about  half  an  inch  broad  for  the  handle. 
Cut  the  orange  transversely  on  both  sides,  and  remove 
the  sections  thus  made.  With  a  tea-spoon  separate  the 
remaining  pulp  from  the  skin,  being  careful  not  to  break 
the  latter.  Remove  the  pulp,  and  the  baskets  are  com- 
pleted. These  baskets  may  be  placed  in  a  pan  of 
pounded  ice  and  filled  with  the  liquid  jelly,  or  they  may 
be  filled  with  the  tiny  squares  of  jelly  at  serving  time. 
The  baskets  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  to  retain  their 
shape,  and  bright  ribbon  will  be  tied  about  them  when 
filled,  to  render  them  more  attractive.  Still  another 
method  is  to  cut  each  orange  in  halves,  remove  the  pulp, 
fill  one-half  with  jelly,  and  the  other  with  Bavarian  cream, 
and  set  the  parts  on  the  ice.  At  serving  time  put  the 
halves  together,  and  tie  them  with  pretty  ribbons.  Jelly 
is  sometimes  formed  in  a  mould  with  a  cylindrical  tube  in 
the  center;  when  the  jelly  is  turned  out,  fill  the  hollow 
the  tube  has  made  with  whipped  cream,  piling  it 
high. 


500  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

WINE   JELLY. 

The  following  named  quantities  will  make  three  pints. 
If  the  jelly  is  preferred  light-colored,  the  spice  and  the 
pink  isinglass  may  be  omitted. 

One  box  of  gelatine. 

One  sheet  of  pink  isinglass. 

Two  lemons. 

One  clove. 

Two-inch  piece  of  stick  cinnamon. 

One  pint  of  sherry  or  Madeira. 

One  pint  of  sugar. 

One  and  one-half  pint  of  water. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

Soak  the  gelatine  and  isinglass  for  two  hours  in  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water;  then  place  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and 
add  the  thin,  yellow  rind  of  one  of  the  lemons,  peeling 
the  rind  in  strips ;  also  add  the  juice  of  both  lemons,  the 
wine,  the  spices,  the  rest  of  the  water  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Stir  these  well  together,  place  the 
mixture  on  the  fire,  and  stir  for  ten  minutes,  watching 
carefully;  when  the  jelly  bubbles,  draw  the  pan  back 
where  its  contents  will  be  kept  at  the  boiling  point  only. 
Cover  the  pan,  and  let  it  stand  for  thirty  minutes  ;  then 
pour  the  jelly  through  a  wire  strainer,  and  then  through  a 
flannel  bag.  Pour  it  into  one  large  mould  or  several 
small  ones,  wetting  the  moulds  before  using,  and  set  in  a 
cool  place  for  at  least  six  or  eight  hours. 

Many  kinds  of  wine  and  liquor  may  be  used  in  this 
way,  the  above  recipe  being  proportioned  for  sherry,  Ma- 
deira or  port.  A  smaller  proportion  of  brandy,  mara- 
schino, noyau  or  punch  would  make  sufficient  flavoring, 
and  a  larger  proportion  of  champagne  may  be  used,  as  it 


GEL  A  TINE  JELLIES.  50 1 

is  not  so  strong.  Those  who  think  clarifying  with  the 
whites  of  eggs  unnecessary,  and  yet  wish  to  use  spices, 
should  steep  them  in  the  water  for  half  an  hour,  then  add 
the  gelatine  and  wine,  and  strain  as  directed.  A  very 
little  more  water  may  be  allowed  if  the  eggs  are  not 
used. 

ORANGE   JELLY. 

Two  oranges  (rinds). 

One  pint  of  orange  juice. 

One  and  one-half  pint  of  water. 

One  pint  of  sugar. 

Two  lemons  (juice). 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

One  box  of  gelatine. 

Soak  the  gelatine  for  two  hours  in  half  a  pint  of  the 
cold  water.  Grate  the  orange  rind  into  a  bowl,  pour  the 
juice  upon  it,  and  let  both  stand  for  two  hours.  Beat  the 
whites,  stir  them  into  the  juice,  add  the  rest  of  the  recipe, 
put  all  in  a  stew-pan  and  stir  over  the  fire  for  ten  min- 
utes. When  the  liquid  bubbles,  set  the  pan  back,  cover 
it,  and  keep  the  contents  at  the  boiling  point  for  half  an 
hour.  Then  strain  as  directed  for  wine  jelly,  and  mould. 

LEMON     JELLY,    NO.   I. 

One-half  pint  of  lemon-juice. 

One  lemon  (rind,  grated). 

One  box  of  gelatine. 

One  pint  of  sugar. 

Two  and  one-quarter  pints  of  water. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

Make  the  same  as  orange  jelly. 


502  THK  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

LEMON    JELLY,  NO.  2. 

One-half  box  of  gelatine. 
One-half  pint  of  cold  water. 
One  pint  of  boiling  water. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  lemons  (^uice). 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  for  two  hours  ;  and 
when  dissolved,  pour  on  it  the  boiling  water,  stir  well,  add 
the  sugar,  and  when  nearly  cold,  add  the  lemon-juice. 
Strain  through  a  sieve  into  a  mould  and  set  away  to 
harden.  Taste  at  the  last,  and  add  more  sugar  if 
needed. 

FRUIT   JELLIES. 

For  best  methods  of  making  these  jellies,  see  "  The 
Perfect  Art  of  Canning  and  Preserving,"  published  by  the 
Butterick  Publishing  Co.,  price  fifteen  cents.  This  is  a 
convenient  sixteen-page  pamphlet  by  the  author  of  the 
present  work  and  contains  in  compact,  readable  form  com- 
plete instruction  regarding  all  the  processes  of  canning 
and  preserving  ;  and  for  this  reason  recipes  and  directions 
for  this  class  of  household  work  are  omitted  from  this 
book. 


TARTS,  COOKIES,  GINGERBREAD,  ETC. 

"  The  Queen  of  Hearts, 
She  made  some  tarts, 
All  on  a  Summer's  day." 

"  MOTHER  GOOSE.-" 

TARTS,  so  called  in  America,  differ  very  much  from  the 
dainties  similarly  designated  in  England.  We  have  learned 
to  call  by  that  name  very  small  shells  of  crust,  which  are 
generally  filled  after  cooking  with  a  preparation  made 
expressly  for  the  purpose.  The  tarts  made  by  the 
"  Queen  "  mentioned  above  were  evidently  like  our  Amer- 
ican pies — that  is  made  with  no  upper  crust,  or  with  nar- 
row strips  laid  across  the  top  and  forming  a  kind  of  lat- 
tice-work. 

Tarts  are  made  of  pie-crust  or  of  puff  paste.  No  rem- 
nants or  cuttings  of  either  should  therefore  be  thrown 
away  as  useless.  Pans  in  which  to  bake  the  crust  may  be 
purchased  at  little  cost ;  and  the  tarts  are  easily  made 
and  form  an  agreeable  addition  to  the  home  luncheon  or 
supper  table. 

TART    SHELLS. 

Roll  thin  a  quantity  of  plain  or  puff  paste,  and  cut  it 
out  with  a  glass  or  biscuit  cutter.  With  a  wine-glass  or  a 
smaller  cutter,  remove  the  centers  of  two  out  of  three  of 

5°3 


5  04  THE  PA  TTERN  CO OK-BOOK 

these  circles;  and  lay  the  rings  thus  made  on  the  third,  in 
this  way  building  a  little  wall  around  the  shell.  Bake  on 
a  baking-pan  in  a  quick  oven.  When  these  shells  are  used, 
no  small  pans  are  required.  In  using  'patty-pans,  care- 
fully line  them  with  the  crust,  and  bake  quickly.  When 
the  crusts  are  cold,  fill  them  with  jelly.  Beat  to  a  stiff 
froth  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar  to  the  whites,  and  spread  the  latter  on  top  of  the 
jelly  in  the  shells.  Return  the  shells  to  the  oven,  and 
brown  the  egg  delicately.  The  whites  of  two  eggs  will 
make  enough  meringue  for  one  dozen  tarts.  The  mer- 
ingue, of  course,  need  not  be  used  if  not  liked,  but  it  adds 
much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  tarts. 

APPLE   TARTS. 

Five  apples. 

Three  eggs. 

One  lemon  (juice  and  rind). 

One-quarter  cupful  of  butter. 

Three-quarters  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  water. 

Peel  and  core  the  apples,  which  should  be  tart ;  and 
cook  them  in  the  water  until  soft ;  stewing  them  very 
slowly.  Beat  the  sauce  very  smooth,  and  when  partly 
cooled,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  lemon-juice 
and  grated  rind  and  the  sugar,  increasing  the  amount  of 
sugar  if  desired  very  sweet.  Line  the  patty-pans  with 
paste,  fill  them  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  five  minutes  in 
a  very  hot  oven.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  to 
them  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  spread  the  egg  on  top 
of  the  tarts,  return  the  latter  to  the  oven,  and  brown  deli- 
cately. 


COOKIES.  505 

ALMOND     TARTS. 

Three  eggs. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  pound  of  shelled  almonds. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar, 
and  beat  vigorously.  Pound  the  almonds  slightly,  and 
add  them  to  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Place  the  mixture  in 
patty-pans  lined  with  paste,  and  bake  eight  minutes. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  sugar,  distribute  the  egg  among  the  tarts, "spreading  it 
on  top,  and  brown  nicely  in  the  oven. 

COCOANUT   TARTS. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  water. 
One-half  of  a  grated  cocoanut. 
Three  eggs. 

Boil  the  water,  sugar  and  cocoanut  together  for  five 
minutes.  Remove  the  mixture  from  the  fire,  and  when  it 
is  nearly  cold,  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten. 
Stir  all  well  together,  pour  the  preparation  into  patty- 
pans lined  with  crust,  and  bake  eight  minutes.  Beat  the 
whites  stiff,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,  distribute 
this  meringue  among  the  tarts,  and  return  them  to  the 
oven  to  brown  lightly. 

Many  other  fillings  may  be  made  for  tart  shells,  mar- 
malade, apple  sauce,  nicely  seasoned  jams,  etc.,  being 
very  satisfactory  for  the  purpose. 

COOKIES. 

SUGAR    COOKIES,    NO.    I. 

Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

Six  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 


506  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 
Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
Flour  to  thicken. 

Stir  the  butter  into  the  sugar ;  beat  the  eggs  light,  and 
add  them  to  the  butter  and  sugar,  stirring  well ;  then  add 
the  milk.  Sift  the  powder  with  a  little  of  the  flour,  and 
stir  this  in,  adding  enough  more  flour  to  admit  of  rolling 
out  the  dough.  Place  the  latter  on  a  well  floured  board 
and  roll  it  thin  ;  then  cut  out  the  cookies  with  a  cutter, 
dip  each  one  in  granulated  sugar  as  soon  as  cut,  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 

SUGAR    COOKIES,    NO.  2. 

Two  eggs. 

One  nutmeg  (grated). 

Three  large  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  lard. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Rub  the  butter,  lard  and  sugar  well  together,  and  add 
the  eggs,  well  beaten,  the  salt  and  the  nutmeg.  Sift  the 
powder  in  a  little  of  the  flour,  add  this  and  enough  more 
flour  to  form  a  dough  that  may  be  rolled.  Then  roll  the 
dough,  cut  it  ©ut,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

CREAM    COOKIES. 

One  pint  of  sweet  cream. 
Three  eggs. 
Flour  to  thicken. 


COOKIES.  507 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  soda. 

Four  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

Put  the  ingredients  together  in  the  same  order  as 
directed  for  the  sugar  cookies,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

COOKIES    WITHOUT   EGGS. 

One  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  butter. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar. 

One  nutmeg  (grated). 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Place  the  ingredients  together  the  same  as  for  sugar 
cookies,  adding  flour  to  roll  as  soft  as  possible ;  and  bake 
quickly. 

SOUR    MILK    COOKIES. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  sour  milk. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Two  eggs. 

One  lemon  (rind  and  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  juice). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Rub  the  butter  and  the  sugar  together,  and  add  the 
eggs,  well  beaten,  the  rind  of  the  lemon  and  the  required 
quantity  of  juice.  Dissolve  the  soda  ill  the  cold  water, 
turn  it  into  the  milk,  and  stir  both  into  the  mixture. 
Add  flour  to  thicken,  roll  out  and  bake  quickly. 


508  77fE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CHOCOLATE    COOKIES. 

One  square  of  Baker's  chocolate  (one  ounce). 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Two  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Melt  the  chocolate  and  butter  together,  add  the  sugar, 
the  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  the  milk,  in  'which  the  soda 
has  been  dissolved.  Add  flour  to  roll  out  thin,  and  cut 
into  small  cookies.  Frost  the  cookies  with  an  icing  of 
confectioners'  sugar. 

JUMBLES. 

One  pound  of  sugar. 

One  pound  of  butter. 

One  and  one-half  pound  of  flour. 

Four  eggs. 

One  table-spoonful  of  brandy. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
eggs,  well  beaten,  then  the  brandy  and  then  the  flour, 
sifting  the  latter  very  lightly.  Roll  out  the  dough,  sifting 
pulverized  sugar  on  the  board  to  keep  it  from  sticking, 
and  bake  quickly.  These  cookies  will  be  very  soft  when 
rolled  out.  If  not  desired  so  sweet,  use  flour  when 
rolling  the  dough  instead  of  sugar.  This  is  a  delicious 
but  rather  expensive  way  to  make  cookies. 

MOTHER'S  JUMBLES. 

Three  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  butter. 


GINGER-CAKES  AND  GINGERBREAD.  509 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg  (if  liked). 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  add  in  their 
order  the  beaten  eggs,  milk,  powder,  nutmeg  and  flour. 
Caraway  seed  may  be  substituted  for  the  nutmeg,  if  de- 
sired, being  particularly  popular  with  children.  Sprinkle 
granulated  sugar  over  the  sheet  of  cake  dough  just 
before  cutting  the  jumbles  out,  passing  the  rolling-pin 
lightly  over  all. 

GINGER-CAKES  AND  GINGERBREAD. 

It  is  yearly  growing  more  difficult  to  make  these  old- 
fashioned  but  delicious  cakes  satisfactorily,  and  the 
trouble  lies,  not  in  the  recipes,  but  in  the  quality  of  mo- 
lasses used.  It  is  not  many  years  since  it  was  possible 
to  purchase  molasses  that  would  impart  a  delightfully 
rich  color  and  flavor  to  anything  in  which  it  was  used. 
This  difference  is  due  to  the  fact  that  sugar  was  formerly 
made  by  a  process  which  yielded  the  good,  dark  molasses 
as  a  regular  product ;  while  at  present  it  is  boiled  in  vac- 
uum pans,  so  that  the  best  quality  of  molasses  is  very 
scarce.  The  darkest  molasses  now  comes  from  Porto 
Rico,  but  this  has  a  disagreeable  flavor  to  many.  The 
next  best  is  the  New  Orleans  molasses,  which  is  disap- 
pointingly light-colored,  but  of  good  flavor.  Molasses 
may  be  tested  by  placing  a  small  quantity  of  dissolved 
soda  in  a  table-spoonful ;  if  the  molasses  is  good,  it  will 
foam  up  in  a  dark,  rich  color  and  emit  a  pleasant  odor ; 
but  if  it  turns  of  a  greenish  shade  and  has  an  unpleasant 
smell,  it  will  not  prove  satisfactory. 


510  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

GINGER    COOKIES,    NO.     I. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One  cupful  of  butter. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One-third  cupful  of  vinegar. 
Flour  to  thicken. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 
One  egg. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  add  the  egg,  well 
beaten,  the  salt  and  ginger,  and  stir  all  well  together 
until  smooth.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  vinegar,  stir  the 
vinegar  into  the  molasses,  and  add  the  latter  to  the  mix- 
ture. Beat  all  well  together,  and  put  in  enough  flour  to 
admit  of  rolling  out  properly,  taking  care  thai  no  more 
flour  is  used  than  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  cakes 
sticking  to  the  board.  Roll  quite  thin,  cut  the  cookies 
out,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven.  These  cookies 
are  very  delicious  and  are  especially  prized  by  chil- 
dren. 

GINGER    COOKIES,    NO.    2. 

Two  cupfuls  of  molasses. 
One  cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  ginger. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  cold  water. 
Flour  to  thicken. 

Place  these  ingredients  together  the  same  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  dissolving  the  soda  in  the  cold  water. 
Roll  the  dough  thin,  having  added  no  more  flour  than 


GINGER-CAKES  AND  GINGERBREAD.  5  I  1 

will  keep  the  dough  from  sticking  to  the  board.     Cut  out 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

GINGER    COOKIES    WITH    COFFEE. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  cupful  of  strong  coffee. 
One  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  lard. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
Flour  to  thicken. 

Beat  the  butter  and  lard  well  together.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  the  water,  and  stir  it  into  the  molasses,  which 
add  to  the  butter  and  lard.  Add  the  spice  and  coffee  and 
sufficient  flour  to  make  a  soft  dough ;  roll  the  dough 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  the  cakes  out,  and 
bake  them  fifteen  minutes  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 

GINGER    SNAPS. 

Two  cupful  s  of  molasses. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  ginger. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  tea- spoonful  of  allspice. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Place  the  molasses  and  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  scald  them  well.  Set  the  pan  aside,  and  when  the 
molasses  has  cooled,  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  put- 
ting in  only  enough  flour  to  make  the  dough  roll  nicely. 
Bake  the  snaps  in  a  quick  oven. 


5  1 2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

GINGER-CAKES. 

One  pint  of  molasses. 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  hot  water. 

Ten  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  lard. 

One  table-spoonful  (scant)  of  soda. 

One  and  one-half  table-spoonfuls  of  ginger. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  hot  water,  and  add  it  to  the 
molasses.  Place  the  lard  and  sugar  together,  and  stir 
with  them  the  molasses  and  the  ginger,  and  flour  to  roll 
out.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

GINGER    DROP-CAKES. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  hot  water. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Four  and  one-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  egg. 

One  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 

One  table-spoonful  of  soda. 

Mix  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe  ;  drop  the  mix- 
ture by  spoonfuls  into  a  buttered  baking-pan,  and  bake  in 
a  rather  quick  oven. 

SOFT   GINGERBREAD. 

One  cupful  of  sour  milk. 
One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 
One  table-spoonful  of  vinegar. 
Five  table-spoontuls  of  melted  lard. 
Flour  to  thicken, 


GINGER-CAKES  AND  GINGERBREAD.  513 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  vinegar,  add  it  to  the  molasses, 
and  stir  well.  Turn  the  molasses  into  the  sour  milk,  stir 
until  well  mixed,  and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients. 
The  success  of  this  bread  depends  on  the  amount  of  flour 
used  being  exactly  right.  The  batter  should  be  so  thin, 
that  the  track  left  by  the  spoon  in  stirring  disappears  at 
once.  When  well  made  the  cake  is  delicious. 
\ 

SUGAR    GINGERBREAD. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Three  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Two-thirds  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 

Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream,  and  gradually  beat  the 
sugar  into  it ;  then  add  the  ginger,  the  eggs,  well  beaten, 
the  milk,  and  finally  the  flour  mixed  with  the  baking- 
powder.  This  is  not  baked  as  a  single  loaf,  but  in  four 
buttered  shallow  cake-pans.  Bake  for  fifteen  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven,  and  on  taking  the  cake  from  the  oven, 
sprinkle  it  with  sugar,  cut  it  into  broad  strips,  and  spread 
these  on  a  dish  to  cool.  The  cake  will,  of  course,  be  very 
thin. 

SPICED  GINGERBREAD. 

One  cupful  of  molasses. 
One  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
One  large  table-spoonful  of  butter. 
One  pint  of  sifted  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  ginger. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
33 


5  14  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Partly  melt  the  batter,  and  put  it  in  the  molasses. 
Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water,  and  add  the  latter  to  the 
molasses.  Then  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredients,  and  bake 
for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  well-buttered  tin. 


CAKE. 

"  With  weights  and  measures  just  and  true, 

Oven  of  even  heat, 
Well-buttered  tins  and  quiet  nerves, 
Success  will  be  complete." 

ANON. 

CAKE  and  pastry  are  not  included  among  the  neces- 
saries of  life,  and  therefore,  if  good  materials  cannot  be 
afforded  for  their  making,  it  is  much  wiser  not  to  provide 
them  for  the  family  at  all.  In  no  department  of  cooking 
does  the  average  housewife  need  less  instruction  than  in 
cake-making,  for  it  is  the  one  branch  of  cookery  that 
nearly  every  American  girl  learns.  There  are,  however, 
a  few  principles  which,  if  acted  upon,  will  make  the  work 
easier  and  the  results  more  certain. 

Accuracy  in  proportioning  the  materials  is  indispen- 
sable. The  baking  is  usually  the  most  difficult  part.  See 
that  there  is  enough  coal  on  the  fire  to  last  through  the 
baking ;  and  be  sure  to  have  the  oven  ready  to  receive 
the  cake  as  soon  as  it  is  mixed,  for  the  oven  can  wait  for 
the  cake,  but  the  cake  can  never  wait  for  the  oven. 

For  most  kinds  of  cake  the  oven  should  be  rather  slow, 
but  there  should  always  be  a  steady  heat.  If  it  is  too  hot 
for  sponge  cake,  it  will  cause  the  cake  to  rise  and  fall 
again.  A  good  test  for  sponge  cake  is  to  put  a  piece  of 


5  1 6  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

white  paper  in  the  oven  and  close  the  door  for  five  min- 
utes. If  the  paper  is  then  of  a  rich  yellow  hue,  the  oven 
is  right ;  but  if  of  a  light  yellow,  it  is  too  cool,  or  if  of  a 
dark  brown,  it  is  too  hot.  Should  the  oven  by  any  acci- 
dent be  found  too  hot  after  the  cake  is  in,  so  that  the 
cake  browns  almost  at  once,  lift  a  lid  off  the  stove,  and 
cover  the  cake  with  a  well  buttered  paper.  The  cake  will 
not  be  so  fine,  but  this  is  the  only  course  to  be  pursued. 

Measure  everything  carefully  before  beginning.  The 
sugar  used  should  be  the  fine  granulated.  Powdered 
sugar  makes  a  dry  cake,  while  coarse  granulated  sugar 
does  not  melt,  so  that  cake  made  with  it  is  coarse  and 
heavy.  Cookies,  layer-cakes  and  small  cakes  require  a 
rather  quick  oven.  The  paper  used  in  testing  should 
turn  a  dark  brown  in  five  minutes.  Never  move  a  cake 
in  the  oven,  unless  it  is  a  layer-cake ;  and  do  not  put  any- 
thing in  the  oven  while  a  cake  is  baking,  or  the  cake  will 
surely  fall. 

If  necessary  to  look  at  a  cake  while  baking,  do  so  as 
quickly  as  possible  ;  and  never  throw  the  door  of  the 
oven  wide  open  for  the  purpose.  Also  be  careful  not  to 
jar  a  cake  while  it  is  baking ;  shut  the  door  of  the  oven 
very  gently.  Let  loaf  cake  partially  cool  in  the  pan  be- 
fore taking  it  out.  A  delicate  cake  is  often  made  heavy 
by  disturbing  it  while  too  hot.  Never  run  straws  or 
splints  into  a  cake  to  test  it ;  a  very  little  experience  in 
cake-making  will  teach  the  beginner  when  the  cake  is 
done.  A  reliable  guide  is  to  watch  for  the  separation  of 
'the  cake  from  the  sides  of  the  tin  ;  when  this  takes  place, 
the  straw  may  be  entered,  if  desired.  But  the  main  ob- 
jection to  using  a  splint  or  fine  knitting-needle,  as  some 
recommend,  is  that  if  the  cake  is  not  quite  baked,  the  air 


CA  KE.  5  1 7 

flows  through  the  hole  thus  made,  and  the  cake  falls  in 
consequence. 

Always  sift  the  flour  before  measuring,  unless  the 
recipe  orders  the  reverse.  As  flour  differs  in  thickening 
qualities,  a  little  inspection  should  be  made  of  the  first 
baking  of  cake  from  a  package  of  flour  to  determine 
just  how  much  is  needed.  When  the  cake  rises  in  the 
center  and  cracks  open,  too  much  flour  has  been 
used. 

In  a  recipe  that  calls  for  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  and  one  of 
soda  may  be  used  instead.  Sift  the  cream  of  tartar  with 
the  flour,  dissolve  the  soda  in  a  table-spoonful  of  cold 
water,  and  add  it  to  the  cake  before  the  whites  of  the 
eggs. 

Of  the  makes  of  baking  powders  there  is  no  end,  and 
each  kind  seems  to  furnish  unimpeachable  testimonials 
from  chemists  as  to  strength,  purity,  etc.  The  writer,  hav- 
ing tried  several  kinds,  has  found  that  while  the  "Royal  " 
makes  fine  bjscuit  and  other  edibles  of  the  same  nature, 
it  does  not  make  as  good  cake  as  the  "  Cleveland,"  which 
is,  perhaps,  the  best  on  the  market  for  that  purpose. 
This  powder  makes  a  fine-grained,  spongy  cake,  much 
lighter,  with  the  same  materials,  than  that  in  which 
"  Royal  "  has  been  used.  The  writer  has  tested  this 
point  with  a  considerable  interest,  and  always  feels  sure 
of  her  cake  when  the  "  Cleveland  "  powder  is  at  hand. 
The  "  Royal "  powder  produces  a  coarser  grained  cake, 
as  if  the  sugar  was  too  coarse. 

Fruit,  such  as  raisins,  currants,  etc.,  should  not  be 
washed  just  before  using,  as,  even  when  the  cake  is  well 
done,  the  water  softening  the  fruit  would  make  it 


5  1 8  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

heavy  and  cause  it  to  sink  to  the  bottom.  When  the 
fruit  is  received  from  the  grocer,  pick  over  the  raisins  and 
currants,  wash  them,  rub  the  currants  in  a  coarse  towel  to 
dislodge  the  minute  stems,  and  dry  both  thoroughly  on 
tins.  Leave  the  fruit  in  a  warm  place  all  day,  to  make 
sure  it  is  perfectly  dry,  and  put  it  away  in  closely  covered 
tin  cans.  When  neede4  for  subsequent  baking,  the  cur- 
rants require  only  to  be  well  floured,  and  the  raisins  to 
be  seeded  and  floured.  This  will  be  found  a  most  con- 
venient plan. 

Never  melt  or  warm  the  butter,  unless  so  directed  in 
the  recipe.  Beat  it  to  a  cream  with  the  sugar. 

Use  cups  of  uniform  size  to  measure  all  materials. 

In  baking  fruit  cake,  always  line  the  tins  with  well- 
buttered  paper,  fitting  it  neatly.  Grease  the  cake  pans 
with  butter.  Lard,  which  many  recommend,  is  of  ques- 
tionable advantage  for  this  purpose.  If  the  butter  is  very 
salt,  wash  the  salt  from  it  before  using. 

Never  mix  cake  in  a  tin  basin,  but  alway  use  an 
earthenware  dish  ;  for,  when  the  butter  and  sugar  are 
rubbed  together,  they  will  be  found  much  darkened 
by  the  tin.  Mix  the  spices  with  the  flour  or  the 
sugar. 

The  whites  of  the  eggs  will  beat  up  quickly  if  the  eggs 
are  kept  in  a  cool  place.  Add  a  pinch  of  salt  to  the 
whites  before  beating,  as  salt  is  cooling.  Use  a  fork  in 
beating  the  whites,  instead  of  the  egg-beater,  unless  the 
work  must  be  hurried,  as  more  froth  may  be  produced 
with  the  fork  than  with  the  beater. 

In  rubbing  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  use  a  spoon 
instead  of  the  hand. 

To  keep  cake  fresh,  place  it  in  a  tightly  covered  tin  box. 


CAKE,  519 

WEDDING    FRUIT    CAKE. 

One  pound  of  brown  sugar-  Two  cupfuls  of  molasses. 

One  pound  of  butter.  One  wine-glassful  of  brandy. 

One  pound  of  flour.  One-half  ounce  of  mace. 

Four  pounds  of  raisins.  One-half  ounce  of  cinnamon. 

Three  pounds  of  currants.  One-half  ounce  of  nutmeg. 

One  pound  of  citron.  One-half  ounce  of  cloves, 
Ten  eggs. 

Seed  the  raisins,  and  chop  them  rather  coarsely. 
Wash  the  currants,  scrub  off  the  little  steins  by  vigorously 
rubbing  the  currants  in  a  coarse  towel,  and  dry  the  fruit 
well  before  using.  Cut  the  citron  in  rather  small  pieces. 
Sift  the  flour,  put  in  it  all  the  spice,  and  sift  again  to 
thoroughly  mix.  Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together  until 
they  form  a  light  cream.  Separate  the  whites  and  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  light,  and  add  them  to  the 
butter  and  sugar  ;  then  add  the  molasses  and  the  brandy, 
stirring  well  after  each  addition.  Sift  a  little  of  the  flour 
on  the  raisins  and  currants,  and  stir  the  rest  of  it  into  the 
mixture,  beating  until  smooth ;  then  add  the  fruit,  and 
lastly  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Line  two  medium- 
sized  cake  tins  with  well-buttered  paper,  divide  the  mix- 
ture between  them,  and  bake  two  hours  in  a  slow  oven. 
This  makes  a  fine  wedding-cake,  and  it  will  last  for  years. 
Keep  it  in  a  stone  or  tin  jar  in  a  cool  place.  Cut  in 
small  squares  for  serving.  The  cake  is  very  rich,  and 
much  at  a  time  is  not  required. 

PLAIN    FRUIT-CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  butter.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon. 

Two  cupfuls  of  brown  sugar.          Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cloves. 
One  cupful  of  molasses.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  mace. 


520  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOO  PC. 

One  cupful  of  strong  coffee.  One  nutmeg  (grated). 

Four  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour.  Two  pounds  of  raisins. 

Four  eggs.  Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  citron. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  soda.  Two  pounds  of  currants. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  creamr  and  add  the 
beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Heat  the  coffee,  and  then 
stir  in  the  soda.  As  soon  as  the  latter  is  dissolved,  turn 
the  coffee  into  the  molasses,  stir  well,  and  add  to 
the  butler  and  sugar.  Sift  the  spices  and  the  flour 
together ;  seed  and  chop  the  raisins  coarsely ;  clean  the 
currants,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  recipe  ;  and  cut  the 
citron  in  small  pieces.  Sift  a  little  of  the  flour  over 
the  fruit,  stir  the  rest  of  it  into  the  mixture,  and  when 
well  beaten,  add  the  fruit.  Lastly,  add  the  beaten  whites 
of  the  eggs.  Bake  in  one  large  or  two  medium-sized  tins 
for  an  hour  and  a-half  In  a  rather  slow  oven,  first  lining 
the  tins  with  well-buttered  paper. 

WHITE    FRUIT   CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  butter.  One  pound  of  figs. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  One  pound  of  dates. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour.  One  pound  of  almonds. 

Seven  eggs  (whites  only).  One  pound  of  raisins. 

Two    tea-spoonfuls   of     baking-  Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  cit- 
powder.  ron. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream.  Chop  the  fruit 
rather  coarsely,  keeping  each  variety  separate  from  the 
others  while  chopping,  and  afterward  mixing  all  lightly 
together  with  the  fingers.  Sift  some  of  the  flour  over  the 
fruit,  place  the  powder  in  the  rest  of  the  flour,  and  sift 
the  flour  again  to  mix  thoroughly.  Then  add  the  flour  to 
the  butter  and  sugar,  stir  in  the  fruit,  and  lastly  add  the 


CAKE,  521 

beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  slowly  in  two  medium- 
sized  tins  for  an  hour  and  a-half.  Line  the  tins  with 
buttered  paper. 

POOR    MAN'S    FRUIT   CAKE. 

One  pound  of  fat  salt  pork.  One  pound  of  raisins. 

Three  cupfuls  of  coffee  (hot).  One  table-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

Four  cupfuls  of  sugar.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  cupful  of  currants.  Seven  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  cupful  of  figs. 

Chop  the  fat  pork  very  fine,  and  pour  over  it  the  boil- 
ing coffee  ;  let  the  coffee  cool  slightly,  and  add  the  sugar. 
Chop  the  figs  coarsely,  seed  and  chop  the  raisins,  and 
wash  and  dry  the  currants  ;  then  put  the  fruit  all  together, 
and  sift  over  it  a  little  of  the  flour.  Add  the  spices  to 
the  rest  of  the  flour,  and  stir  the  latter  into  the  coffee  and 
sugar.  When  the  mixture  is  well  beaten,  add  the  fruit, 
and  bake  in  one  loaf  on  buttered  paper  for  an  hour. 

SPONGE    CAKE,   NO.   I. 

Six  eggs. 

The  weight  of  five  eggs  in  sugar. 

The  weight  of  three  eggs  in  flour. 

One-half  tea-spoonful'of  salt. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  table-spoonful  of  lemon  extract. 

Measures  instead  of  weights  are  used  in  nearly  all  the 
recipes  given  in  this  book,  as  they  are  more  convenient 
for  the  average  housekeeper ;  but  in  making  sponge  cake, 
where  the  whole  wetting  depends  on  eggs,  which  vary  so 
much  in  bulk,  it  is  wisest  to  decide  the  quantities  of 
sugar  and  flour  by  weight.  For  those  who  do  not  possess 


522"  TtiE  PA  TTEX1V  COOK-B OOK. 

scales  it  may  be  well  to  state  that  the  weight  of  five  ordi- 
nary eggs  in  sugar  is  a  full  half-pint,  while  the  weight  of 
three  eggs  in  flour  is  a  scanty  half-pint  by  measurement. 
Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  the 
yolks  light ;  add  the  salt  to  the  whites,  and  beat  them  to 
a  dry  froth  ;  then  put  the  yolks  with  the  whites,  and  beat 
until  the  yellow  is  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  white. 
Sift  in  the  sugar  by  degrees,  beating  all  the  time,  and  add 
the  extract.  Sift  the  flour  and  baking-powder  together, 
and  add  them  to  the  mixture,  stirring  only  enough  to  mix 
them  well  into  the  egg.  Butter  the  pan  well,  and  bake 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  single  loaf. 

This  is  a  most  satisfactory  recipe.  When  the  cake  is 
baked,  it  will  have  a  delicious  sugar  coat  on  the  top, 
resulting  from  sifting  in  the  sugar  a  little  at  a  time. 
Sponge  cake  should  never  be  cut  with  a  knife.  Instead, 
break  it  in  pieces,  and  serve  on  a  cake-dish.  This 
makes,  perhaps,  a  rather  untidy-looking  dish  ;  but  the 
cake  is  rendered  heavy  by  the  use  of  a  knife. 

SPONGE   CAKE,  NO.    2. 

Three  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  flour. 

One  -and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon  or  vanilla  extract. 

One-half  cupful  of  boiling  water. 

Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  light  separately ; 
then  place  them  together,  and  beat  again.  Sift  in  the 
sugar  a  little  at  a  time,  and  add  the  flavoring,  and  the 
flour,  into  which  has  been  stirred  the  baking-powder. 
Beat  all  well  together,  and  at  the  very  last  stir  in  the  hot 


CAKE.  •  523 

water.     Bake  in  one  loaf  in  a  well  buttered   tin  for   three- 
quarters  of  an  hour.     Break  for  serving. 

WATER    SPONGE    CAKE. 

Four  eggs. 

Two  cupfuls  of  pulverized  sugar. 
Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 
One-half  cupful  of  water. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Separate  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  them 
first  separately  and  then  together.  Sift  in  the  sugar  a 
little  at  a  time,  then  add  the  vanilla  and  the  flour,  and 
lastly  beat  in  the  water  quickly.  Bake  half  an  hour  in  a 
moderately  quick  oven.  Break  the  cake  for  serving. 

WHITE    SPONGE    CAKE. 

Ten  eggs  (whites). 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon  extract. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Add  the  salt  to  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  them 
stiff.  Gradually  sift  in  the  sugar,  and  add  the  lemon 
extract.  Stir  the  powder  into  the  flour,  and  add  the  lat- 
ter to  the  eggs,  beating  lightly  but  mixing  thoroughly. 
Bake  in  one  loaf  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  well 
buttered  tin.  Break  in  pieces  when  cold,  to  serve. 

CANADA    SPONGE   CAKE. 

Ten  eggs  (whites  and  yolks). 
Two  coffee-cupfuls  of  sugar 
Two  coffee-cupfuls  of  flour. 


524  THE  PA  TTERN  CO  OK-B  O  OK. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Xwo  tea-spoonfuls  of  flavoring. 

Add  the  salt  to  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  beat  them 
stiff;  beat  the  yolks  light,  and  add  them  to  the  whites, 
beating  both  vigorously.  Then  add  the  sugar,  and 
beat  thoroughly  ;  sift  the  flour  and  the  baking-powder 
together  twice,  and  add  them,  stirring  very  gently 
w'th  a  whisk  or  a  knife.  Put  in  the  flavoring,  and  bake 
half  an  hour  in  two  well  buttered  tins. 

ENGLISH    WHITE    MOUNTAIN    CAKE. 

One  pound  of  sugar. 

One-half  pound  of  butter. 

One-half  pint  of  the  whites  of  eggs. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

One  and  a-quarter  pound  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

The  above  recipe  is  from  an  eminent  English  cook. 
The  apportionment  of  eggs  may  seem  strange,  but  it  cer- 
tainly is  a  wise  way  of  measuring,  since  eggs  vary  so 
much  in  bulk.  Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together  to 
form  a  cream,  and  add  the  milk.  Sift  the  powder  with 
the  flour,  and  add  this  to  the  mixture ;  and  lastly  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  large,  well  buttered  tin. 

ANGELS'  FOOD. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 

Eleven  eggs  (whites). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 


CAKE. 


525 


Sift  the  flour  four  times ;  then  measure  it,  and  add  the 
cream  of  tartar,  and  sift  four  times  more.  Sift  the  sugar 
through  the  flour-sieve  three  times.  Beat  the  whites  of 
the  eggs  to  a  stiff,  dry  froth,  and  add  the  sugar  a  little  at 
a  time,  and  then  the  flour  and  the  vanilla.  Bake  forty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  Do  not  butter  the  pan  at 
all.  Lay  a  paper  on  the  bottom,  leaving  it  unoiled  also. 
When  done  turn  the  cake  upside  down,  place  the  pan 
bottom  upward,  and  lay  the  cake  upon  it.  Frost  the 
bottom  of  the  cake. 

COFFEE    SPICED    CAKE. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar.  One  egg. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  cupful  of  molasses.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One-half  cupful  of  coffee.  One  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour.  One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  egg, 
well  beaten.  Heat  the  coffee  hot,  add  to  it  the  soda,  and 
when'  the  latter  is  dissolved,  turn  the  coffee  into  the 
molasses ;  then  add  the  mixture  to  the  butter,  sugar  and 
egg.  Seed  the  raisins,  and  chop  them  rather  coarsely. 
Sift  the  spices  into  the  flour,  sprinkle  the  raisins  with  a 
little  of  the  flour,  and  stir  the  rest  of  the  flour  into  the 
mixture.  Lastly  add  the  raisins,  and  beat  well  for  at  least 
five  minutes,  when  all  should  be  very  smooth.  Bake  in 
one  loaf  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

This  is  a  very  reliable  recipe.  More  fruit  may  be 
added,  if  desired.  Half  a  cupful  of  currants  may  be 
mixed  with  the  raisins,  or  a  cupful  of  currants  alone  may 
be  used. 


526  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

SPICED    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar.  One  cupful  of  raisins. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter.  Two  eggs. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sour  One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

milk.  One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  flour.  One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  milk,  and  add  it 
to  the  mixture.  Seed  the  raisins,  chop  them  rather 
coarsely,  and  flour  lightly.  Sift  the  spice,  with  the  rest 
of  the  flour,  and  add  this  to  the  preparation,  stirring 
it  in  well.  Lastly  add  the  raisins,  stir  well,  turn  into  a 
,  buttered  tin,  and  bake  rather  slowly 'for  three-quarters  of 
an  hour. 

WHITE    CAKE,    NO.     I. 

One  coffee-cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  coffee-cupful  of  butter. 
One-half  coffee  cupful  of  milk. 
One  coffee-cupful  of  flour. 
One-half  coffee-cupful  of  corn-starch. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
Three  eggs  (whites). 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
milk.  Sift  together  the  flour,  corn-starch  and  baking- 
powder,  and  add  them,  beating  well.  Lastly,  stir  in  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Bake  for  half 
an  hour  in  a  well  buttered  tin  in  a  moderately  quick  oven. 
A  flavoring  may  be  added  to  the  cake  in  mixing,  if 
desired. 

WHITE    CAKE,    NO.     2. 

One  and  a-.half  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  butter. 


CAKE.  527 

One  tea-cupful  of  water. 

Three  tea-cupfuls  of  flour. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Four  eggs  (whites). 

Mix  in  the  order  given  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and 
bake  for  half  an  hour.  This  makes  a  very  delicate  cake. 

POUND  CAKE. 

One-half  pound  of  powdered  sugar. 

One-half  pound  of  butter. 

One-half  pound  of  flour. 

Six  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea- spoonfuls  of  flavoring. 

Mix  in  the  order  given  for  white  cake,  No.  i,  and  bake 
in  one  loaf  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour. 

* 

CHEAP   POUND-CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  third  cupful  of  milk. 
One  and  a-half  cupful  of  flour. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  mace. 
Three  eggs. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  then  the  milk.  ,Sift  the  flour,  baking- 
powder  and  mace  well  together,  and  stir  them  in,  beating 
thoroughly.  Bake  forty  minutes  in  a  rather  quick 
oven. 


528  THE  PA  TTE-RN  COOK-B O OK. 

COCOANUT    LOAF    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  cocoanut. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  egg. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

Place  the  melted  butter  and  the  sugar  together,  and 
stir  well ;  then  add  the  beaten  egg  and  the  milk.  Sift 
the  baking-powder  and  flour  together,  and  add  them, 
beating  vigorously.  When  all  is  smooth,  add  the  cocoa- 
nut,  and  bake  in  one  loaf  for  half  an  hour  in  a  rather 
quick  oven. 

PLAIN    LOAF    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  lemon  or  vanilla  extract. 

Cream  the  butter  and  the  sugar  together  by  stirring 
well ;  and  add  the  milk,  then  the  flavoring,  and  then  the 
flour,  into  which  the  baking-powder  has  been  stirred; 
lastly  add  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  This  cake  requires 
little  handling.  Do  not  beat  it  any  longer  than  is  just 
necessary  to  blend  the  ingredients  smoothly  together. 
Bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  This  is  a  very  reli- 
able recipe  and  makes  a  delicious  cake  with  very  little 
labor. 


CAKE.  529 

QUICK    LOAF    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar.  One  table-spoonful  of  wine. 

One  cupful  of  milk.  One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-pow- 

One-third  of  a  cupful  of  melted  der. 

butter.  One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour.  mace  or  nutmeg. 

One  cupful  of  raisins.  One    tea-spoonful   of    bitter  al- 

One  egg  (yolk  only).  mond  extract. 

Place  the  ingredients  together  in  the  order  of  the  pre- 
ceding- recipe,  and  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
This  cake  is  most  delicious  when  fresh,  but  it  soon 
becomes  stale  and  dry.  As  this  recipe  makes  but  one 
loaf,  however,  the  cake  is  not  very  likely  to  become  stale. 

CREAM    LOAF   CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sweet  cream. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Three  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Four  eggs. 

Two  and  a-half  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

One  lemon  (grated  peel). 

Beat  the  whites  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  separately,  and 
add  the  sugar  to  the  yolks,  stirring  well ;  then  put  in  the 
cream,  the  grated  lemon-peel,  the  flour  with  the  baking- 
powder  stirred  into  it,  and  lastly  the  beaten  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Bake  for  forty  minutes  in  a  rather  quick  oven, 

GRAHAM   CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Four  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
One  cupful  of  sour  milk.  butter. 

One  cupful  of  raisins.  One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One  egg.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

Graham  flour  to  thicken.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One-half  nutmeg  (grated). 
34 


530  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  sugar  and  butter  lightly  together,  and  add  the 
egg,  well  beaten.  Stir  the  soda  into  the  sour  milk,  and 
when  it  is  dissolved,  add  the  milk  to  the  sugar  and  egg. 
Sift  the  spice  with  a  cupful  of  flour,  and  add  this  and 
enough  more  flour  to  make  a  moderately  thick  batter. 
In  using  graham  flour  it  is  wise  to  remember  that  it 
swells  considerably  after  being  placed  with  a  liquid ; 
therefore,  this  cake  need  not  be  quite  so  thick  when  fin- 
ished as  are  most  varieties.  Seed  and  chop  the  raisins, 
sift  a  little  flour  over  them,  and  add  them  at  the  last. 
Beat  vigorously  for  five  minutes,  and  bake  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  rather  moderate  oven. 

CAROLINE  CAKE. 

The  following  quantities  will  make  two  loaves. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  cupful  of  sweet  cream. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  butter. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Five  eggs  (whites). 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  well  together ;  add  the  cream, 
and  then  the  flour,  into  which  the  baking-powder  has 
been  stirred ;  and  lastly  put  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs, 
well  beaten.  Bake  in  two  loaves  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 


SHELLBARK    (NUT)    CAKE. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 
One  cupful  of  butter. 


^jne  cuprui  01  uune 
One  cupful  of  milk 
Four  eggs 


CAKE.  531 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 
One  pint  of  nut-meats. 
Flour  to  thicken. 

Cream  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  then  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  milk,  and  the  flour  with  the  baking- 
powder  stirred  into  it.  Next  add  the  nut-meats,  chopping 
them  coarsely  before  adding ;  and  lastly  stir  in  the  beaten 
whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour 
in  a  well  buttered  pan  in  a  moderate  oven. 

CUP-CAKES,    IN    GEM    PANS. 

These  are  very  satisfactory,  but  are  only  good  when 
quite  fresh.  The  following  ingredients  will  make  sixteen 

cakes : 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

Fruit — raisins  or  currants. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon  extract. 

Place  the  materials  together  the  same  as  in  the  preced- 
ing recipe.  Heat  the  gem-pans  slightly,  grease  them 
thoroughly  with  butter,  and  place  a  small  table-spoonful 
of  the  batter  in  each  gem  plate ;  then  lay  upon  the  batter 
three  or  four  whole  raisins  well  floured,  or  scatter  over  it 
a  few  floured  currants  or  two  or  three  thin  slices  of  citron. 
Add  another  small  table-spoonful  of  the  cake-batter  to 
each  gem,  thus  arranging  the  fruit  in  the  center;  then 
bake  in  a  rather  quick  oven.  These  are  very  nice  cakes 
for  children  (if  cake  is  allowed  them  at  all),  for  they  are 
not  at  all  rich, 


532  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

DROP   CAKES. 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar.  Three  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Three-quarters  cupful  of  butter.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  soda. 

One  cupful  of  sour  milk.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

Three-quarters    cupful    of    mo-  One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon, 

lasses.  Two  eggs. 

Warm  the  molasses,  dissolve  the  soda  in  the  milk,  and 
add  it  to  the  molasses.  Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a 
cream,  and  add  the  beaten  eggs,  and  then  the  molasses 
mixture.  Sift  the  spice  with  the  flour,  and  stir  the 
latter  in ;  then  beat  until  all  is  smooth.  Drop  by 
spoonfuls  on  a  buttered  baking-tin,  or  bake  in  gem-pans 
or  patty-pans,  oiling  well  in  any  case. 

ROLLED    JELLY   CAKE. 

Two  eggs. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  flour. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Mix  together  the  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat- 
ing well,  then  add  the  milk  and  salt,  and  the  flour,  into 
which  has  been  stirred  the  baking-powder.  Lastly  stir  in 
the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Butter  a  dripping  or 
cookie  pan,  turn  in  the  batter,  and  bake  quickly  in  a 
quick  oven.  When  the  cake  is  done,  turn  it  bottom  up 
on  a  baking-board ;  spread  the  cake  with  jelly,  roll  'it  up, 
and  wrap  a  cloth  or  towel  about  it  to  keep  it  in  shape 
until  cooled.  Cut  from  the  end  of  the  roll  when 
serving. 


CAKE.  533 

SPONGE   JELLY    ROLL. 

Three  eggs. 

One  coffee-cupful  of  sugar. 

One  coffee-cupful  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  lemon  extract. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  water. 

Put  the  ingredients  together  the  same  as  in  the  preced- 
ing recipe,  and  roll  up  as  directed.  This  makes  a  larger 
cake  than  the  last  mentioned. 

MARBLE    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Rub  these  to  a  cream,  divide  the  cream  into  two  por- 
tions, and  use  one  portion  for  the  dark  and  the  other 
portion  for  the  light  part  of  the  cake. 

THE   DARK   PART. 

One-quarter  cupful  of  molasses. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk. 
One  cupful  of  flour. 
Two  eggs  (yolks). 
One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 

Add  to  one  of  the  portions  of  creamed  butter  and  sugar 
the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  then  the  milk  and 
molasses.  Stir  the  powder,  spice  and  flour  together,  add 
the  mixture,  and  beat  thoroughly  for  three  or  four  min- 
utes. It  may  be  found  necessary  to  slightly  increase  the 


534  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

quantity  of  flour  named.     The  track  made  by  the  spoon 
in  stirring  the  butter  should  not  at  once  sink  back. 

THE  LIGHT   PART. 

Two  eggs  (whites). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

One  cupful  of  flour. 

Add  the  milk  to  the  other  portion  of  sugar  and  butter  ; 
then  put  in  the  flour,  into  which  the  powder  has  first  been 
stirred  ;  and  lastly  add  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs. 

Place  a  layer  of  the  dark  part  in  a  well  buttered  cake- 
tin,  then  a  layer  of  the  light,  and  so  continue  until  all  the 
batter  is  used,  ending  with  the  dark.  Bake  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

DOUGLASS   CAKE. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One  egg. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

This  cake,  when  properly  made,  is  extremely  delicious. 
It  is  necessary  to  use  pastry  flour  for  it  and  fine  granu- 
lated sugar.  The  fruit  may  be  omitted,  if  not  cared  for, 
and  a  table-spoonful  of  vanilla  substituted.  Beat  the 
butter  and  sugar  together  until  quite  light  and  creamy ; 
next  add  the  beaten  egg  and  then  the  milk.  Seed  the 
raisins,  chop  them  coarsely,  and  sift  over  them  a  little  of 
the  flour.  Mix  the  baking-powder  through  the  rest  of 
the  flour  by  sifting  the  two  together  at  least  twice  ;  beat 


CAKE.  535 

the  flour  carefully  into  the  mixture,  and  add  the  fruit. 
Then  beat  the  batter  at  least  three  minutes,  and  bake 
three-quarters  of  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  flour. ^ 
should  be  well  sifted  before  being  measured  for  this  cake. 
A  chocolate  icing  made  with  confectioners'  sugar  will  be 
found  particularly  nice. 

CHOCOLATE    CAKE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

One-half  cupful  of  coffee  (hot). 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

Two  eggs. 

One  square  of  chocolate. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
beaten  eggs,  and  then  the  milk.  Grate  the  chocolate  fine, 
and  add  it  to  the  coffee,  which  should  be  very  hot ;  stir 
well,  and  gradually  add  this  mixture  to  the  butter,  sugar 
and  eggs.  Sift  the  powder  and  the  flour  together,  add 
the  flour,  beating  well,  and  then  put  in  the  vanilla.  Bake 
in  one  loaf  for  forty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 

EGOLESS    CAKE. 

One  and  a-half  tea-cupful  of  sugar. 
Three  tea-cupfuls  of  sifted  flour. 
One  tea-cupful  of  sour  milk. 
One-half  tea-cupful  of  butter. 
One  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cinnainon. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 
One  tea-cupful  of  raisins. 


536  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOO 'A*. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  milk.  Rub  the  butter  and 
sugar  well  together,  and  add  the  milk.  Seed  the  raisins^ 
chop  them  rather  coarsely,  and  flour  them  lightly  with  a 
little  of  the  flour.  Sift  the  spice  with  the  rest  of  the  flour, 
and  stir  the  latter  into  the  mixture,  beating  hard  ;  then 
add  the  raisins.  Bake  for  forty  minutes  in  one  loaf. 

CUP  CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Three-quarters  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Unite  the  ingredients  the  same  as  in  loaf  cake. 

"i,  2,  3,  4"  CAKE. 
This  following  recipe  will  make  two  good-sized  loaves. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

Three  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Four  eggs. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Put  the  ingredients  together  the  same  as  for  loaf  cake. 
Divide  the  mixture,  place  it  in  tins,  and  bake. 

RAISED   LOAF    CAKE. 

Three  cupfuls  of  warm  milk. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 
One-half  cupful  of  yeast,  or 
One-half  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 
Flour  to  thicken. 


CAKE.  537 

Place  the  milk,  sugar  and  yeast  together,  and  add 
enough  flour  to  make  a  rather  thick  batter.  Set  the 
batter  in  a  warm  place  over  night.  In  the  morning  add 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  butter. 
Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 
One  cupful  of  raisins. 
One  wine-glassful  of  wine  or  brandy.. 
«One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 
Two  eggs. 

Work  the  butter  thoroughly  into  the  batter  before  add- 
ing the  beaten  eggs  and  the  sugar,  spice  and  brandy. 
Seed  and  chop  the  raisins,  flour  them,  and  beat  them  in 
at  the  last.  Place  the  cake  in  two  medium-sized  tins, 
and  when  it  has  risen  nicely,  bake  slowly  for  fifty  min- 
utes. 

DOUGH   CAKE. 

The  following  materials  will  make  two  loaves: 

Four  cupfuls  of  light  bread  dough.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cinnamon. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  cupful  of  butter.  One  tea-spoonful  of  grated  nutmeg. 

One  cupful  of  raisins.  Three  eggs. 

One  tea-spoonful  of  soda.  One  table-spoonful  of  cold  water. 

Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  water,  and  add  the  latter  to 
the  dough ;  then  thoroughly  mix  in  the  butter  and  sugar, 
and  add  the  rest  of  the  recipe.  Bake  in  two  well  but- 
tered tins,  first  allowing  the  cake  to  rise  in  the  tins  until 
quite  light.  Bread  dough  cake  or  raised  cake  requires 
much  beating  to  mix  it  thoroughly,  it  being  frequently 
necessary  to  use  the  hands  to  make  the  whole  entirely 
smooth. 


538  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

NUT  CAKE. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

Three-quarters  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Four  eggs  (whites  only) 

One  and  a-quarter  pounds  of  English  walnuts. 

Mix  the  ingredients  the  same  as  for  loaf  cake,  adding 
the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs  last.  Crack  the  nuts, 
and  reserve  twenty-five  perfect  halves  for  use  on  the 
icing  upon  the  top  ;  chop  the  rest  of  the  meats  fine,  and 
stir  them  into  the  cake  just  before  adding  the  eggs. 
Bake  in  one  loaf  for  forty-five  minutes.  Frost  the  top 
with  plain  frosting  (see  page  550),  and  place  the  perfect 
meats  on  top  of  the  frosting,  sinking  them  into  it  in 
squares. 

COCOANUT   DROP   CAKES. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  cupful  of  cocoanut. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Place  the  cocoanut  in  the  milk  and  let  it  soak  for  an 
hour ;  then  rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  add 
the  beaten  eggs,  the  milk  and  cocoanut,  and  lastly  the 
flour,  into  which  has  been  stirred  the  baking-powder. 
Bake  in  well  buttered  gem-pans  or  patty-pans.  Frost  the 
cakes. 


CAKE.  539 

CREAM    MOLASSES    CAKE. 

One  egg.  One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar.  One  tea-spoonful  of  cinnamon. 

One  cupful  of  molasses.  One-half  tea-spoonful  of  cloves. 

One  cupful  of  sour  cream.  One-half  tea-spoonful  of  nutmeg. 

Flour  to  thicken.  Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Stir  the  sugar  into  the  egg.  Add  the  soda  to  the  water, 
and  when  it  is  dissolved  stir  the  liquid  into  the  molasses, 
and  add  the  latter  to  the  cream.  When  the  whole  is  well 
stirred  together,  mix  it  with  the  egg  and  sugar.  Sift  the 
spice  into  a  little  flour,  and  add  this,  and  enough  more 
flour  to  make  a  not  too  thick  batter.  Pour  the  latter  into 
a  well  buttered  tin,  and  bake  for  an  hour. 

SILVER   CAKE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  and  a-half  cupful s  of  flour. 

Four  eggs  (whites). 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Place  the  ingredients  together  the  same  as  for  loaf 
cake,  adding  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten,  at  the 
last.  Bake  in  a  well  buttered  tin  for  forty  minutes. 

GOLD    CAKE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Five  eggs  (all  the  yolks  and  one  white). 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 


540  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  yolks  and  the  one  white  until  very  light,  and 
add  them  to  the  creamed  butter  and  sugar.  Then  add 
the  milk,  the  flour  into  which  the  baking  powder  has  been 
stirred,  and  lastly  the  vanilla.  Bake  for  forty-five  minutes 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

BUTTERMILK    CAKE. 
One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  and  a-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
Two  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  flour. 
One  cupful  of  buttermilk. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  soda. 
Two  eggs. 

Beat  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  and  add  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten.  Mash  the  soda,  dissolve 
it  in  the  buttermilk,  and  add  the  latter  to  the  butter,  eggs 
and  sugar.  Stir  in  the  flour,  beat  until  smooth,  and  then 
stir  in  quickly  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  in  a 
well  buttered  tin  for  forty-five  minutes. 

LAYER    CAKES. 

These  cakes  require  a  very  hot  oven.  They  should 
cook  in  five  minutes  at  the  longest,  and  are  not  disturbed 
by  being  turned  if  one  side  is  browning  too  fast  for  the 
other.  Many  people  bake  these  cakes  on  the  grate  of  the 
oven  with  good  success,  as  the  heat  is  stronger  there.  In 
making  a  layer  cake  that  is  to  have  a  rich,  sweet  filling, 
like  chocolate,  half  a  cupful  of  sugar  will  be  found  suffi- 
cient, unless  a  very  sweet  cake  is  desired. 

PLAIN    LAYER    CAKE. 

• 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 
One  cupful  of  sugar. 


CAKE.  541 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  egg. 

One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  together,  and  add  the 
egg,  well  beaten,  and  then  the  milk.  Stir  the  powder 
into  a  little  of  the  flour,  and  add  it,  stirring  it  in  quickly ; 
then  add  enough  more  flour  to  make  a  not  too  thin  batter. 
Place  the  batter  in  three  well  buttered  tins,  and  bake. 
The  batter  for  all  layer  cake  should  be  so  thick  that  the 
track  made  by  the  spoon  in  stirring  it  will  not  at  once 
sink,  back  into  the  mixture.  This  is  a  good  test.  This 
quantity  will  make  three  medium-sized  layers  of  cake. 
Place  any  of  the  fillings  given  (see  page  544)  between  the 
layers. 

QUICKLY    MADE    LAYER    CAKE. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

The  writer  has  often  found  this  way  of  making  layer 
cake  more  successful  than  when  more  time  and  pains 
are  devoted  to  its  making.  Butter  the  three  tins  for  the 
cake  first,  and  be  sure  the  heat  of  the  oven  is  strong  and 
steady.  Rub  the  butter  into  the  sugar,  break  into  this 
the  eggs,  slir  them  in  quickly  without  previously  beating 
them,  add  the  milk,  and  stir  until  smooth.  Scatter  the 
baking-powder  over  the  top  of  the  mixture,  sprinkle  some 
of  the  flour  over  it,  and  stir  thoroughly,  adding  enough 


542  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

more  flour  to  thicken ;  then  pour  the  batter  into  the  tins. 
Cake  made  in  this  way  does  not  require  more  than  five 
minutes'  work  after  the  materials  are  gotten  together. 
Bake  quickly,  and  spread  any  of  the  fillings  given  between 
the  layers. 

WHITE    MOUNTAIN    LAYER    CAKE. 

The  following  will  make  four  large  layers,  thus  forming 
a  good-sized  cake: 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Three  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Six  eggs  (whites). 

One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

One  pint  of  flour  (sifted). 

Twenty  drops  of  extract  of  bitter  almond. 

Rub  the  butter  and  sugar  to  a  light  cream,  and  add  the 
milk  and  then  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth.  Sift  the  flour  with  the  powder,  and  add  it  and  the 
extract.  Mix  all  well  together,  divide  the  batter  among 
four  tins,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  Spread  plain  frost- 
ing between  the  layers,  and  frost  the  top. 

RIBBON    CAKE. 

This  cake  contains  three  large  layers,  the  middle  one 
having  fruit  through  it.     It  is  a  large  cake. 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Four  eggs. 

Three  and  a-half  cupfuls  of  pastry  flour. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder, 


CAKE.  543 

Separate  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs.  Rub  the 
butter  and  sugar  to  a  cream,  add  to  this  the  well  beaten 
yolks,  stir  well,  and  put  in  the  milk  and  then  the  flour 
into  which  has  been  stirred  the  baking-powder.  Lastly 
add  the  beaten  whites.  Have  ready  buttered  three  long, 
shallow  tins  of  equal  size.  Divide  the  cake  into  three 
parts,  and  bake  two  of  them  plain.  To  the  third  add 

One  cupful  of  raisins. 
One  cupful  of  currants. 
One-quarter  of  a  pound  of  citron. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  molasses. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  brandy  or  wine. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  mace. 
One-half  tea-spoonfuj  of  cinnamon. 

Seed  the  raisins  and  chop  them  coarsely,  wash  and  dry 
the  currants,  and  slice  the  citron  fine ;  then  put  all  the 
fruit  together,  and  flour  it  well.  Stir  the  fruit  and  spice 
into  the  third  portion  of  batter,  and  bake  in  the  third  tin. 
When  all  the  layers  are  done,  arrange  them  with  the  fruit 
cake  in  the  middle,  spreading  a  coat  of  jelly  between 
them.  Press  each  cake  lightly  with  the  hand  as  it  is 
laid  on,  to  insure  the  layers  sticking  closely  together. 
Trim  the  edges  even,  and  frost  with  a  plain  or  a  boiled 
frosting. 

CARAMEL     CAKE. 

To  make  three  large  layers  allow 

One  cupful  of  butter. 

Two  cupfuls  of  sugar. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Three  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Five  eggs  (whites.). 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 


544  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Place  the  ingredients  together  the  same  as  for  plain 
layer  cake,  adding  the  whites  of  the  eggs  last.  Bake  in 
three  well  buttered  tins,  and  when  done,  spread  between 
the  layers  the  caramel  filling  (see  page  546). 

WHITE    LAYER   CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One-half  cupful  of  butter. 

One-half  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  cupfuls  of  flour. 

Four  eggs  (whites). 

One  and  a-half  tea-spoonful  of  baking-powder. 

Put  the  ingredients  together,  the  same  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe.  Bake  in  three  layer-cake  tins,  well  but- 
tered, and  spread  frosting  between  the  layers. 

VARIETY    LAYER    CAKE. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  table-spoonful  of  butter. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  eggs. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  baking-powder. 

Flour  to  thicken. 

Make  the  same  as  plain  layer  cake,  and  bake  in  four 
layers.  When  done,  spread  between  the  first  and  second 
layers  a  coating  of  currant  jelly,  between  the  second  and 
third  simple  melted  chocolate,  and  between  the  third  and 
fourth  the  cream  filling  (see  page  545),  and  frost  the  top. 

FILLINGS    FOR    LAYER    CAKES. 

In  arranging  a  layer  cake  it  is  much  more  satisfactory 
if  the  bottom  instead  of  the  top  of  the  cake  receives  the 
filling,  the  bottom  being  much  more  porous  and  receptive. 


CAKE.  545 

The  bottom  of  the  layers  will  be  much  softer,  and  no 
crust  at  all  will  form  on  them,  if  the  cakes  are  baked  on 
the  grate  of  the  oven.  Put  the  layers  together  as  soon 
as  possible  after  they  are  baked ;  turn  one  layer  upside 
down  for  the  bottom,  spread  over  it  whatever  filling  is  to 
be  used,  lay  the  second  sheet  of  cake  bottom  side  up  on 
this  one,  spread  it  with  filling,  and  so  continue,  placing 
the  top  layer  with  the  bottom  side  downward. 

Cake  baked  and  put  together  in  this  way  will  retain 
whatever  filling  is  put  into  it ;  the  layers  will  not  press  the 
filling  out  between  them  as  is  often  the  case  when  the 
crusted  part  receives  the  filling. 

CREAM    FILLING. 

One-half  pint  of  milk. 

One  table-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 

One  egg  (yolk). 

One-half  salt-spoonful  of  salt. 

Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Measure  the  corn-starch  evenly  across  the  spoon, 
and  put  with  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the  milk.  Add  to 
the  beaten  yolk  of  the  egg  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
milk,  and  beat  well  with  a  fork ;  then  put  these  two  mix- 
tures together.  Place  the  rest  of  the  milk  on  the  fire  in 
"  a  small  sauce-pan  set  in  another  containing  boiling  water, 
and  when  the  milk  is  boiling,  stir  into  it  the  corn-starch 
mixture.  Stir  the  whole  until  smooth,  and  let  it  cook 
four  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add  the  salt,  sugar 
and  butter  as  soon  as  the  corn-starch  is  thoroughly  stirred 
in.  Then  remove  from  the  fire,  stir  a  moment  to  cool  the 
liquid  somewhat,  add  the  vanilla,  and  use. 
35 


546  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CARAMEL    FILLING. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
One  table-spoonful  (scant)  of  butter. 
One-half  table-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Place  the  milk,  sugar,  and  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan set  in  another  containing  boiling  water  and  cook 
until  thick.  Take  from  the  fire  and  beat  it  hard  until 
stiff.  Then  add  the  vanilla. 

APPLE   FILLING. 

One  egg  (white). 

One-half  cupful  of  powdered  s?ugar. 

One  large,  sour  apple. 

Whip  the  egg  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  and  add  to  it  the  sugar. 
Grate  the  apple  fine,  stir  it  in  very  gradually,  and  use. 

APPLE    AND    LEMON    FILLING. 

One  apple  (grated). 

One  lemon  (juice  and  grated  rind). 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

Grate  the  apple  and  the  rind  of  the  lemon,  place  them  on 
the  fire  with  the  juice  and  sugar,  and  boil  for  five  minutes. 

ORANGE    FILLING,    NO.    I. 

Two  oranges  (juice  and  rind). 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Two  cupful  s  of  sugar. 

Two  eggs  (yolks  and  one  of  the  whites). 

Grate  the  yellow  from  the  oranges,  and  place  the  gratings 


CAKE.  547 

in  a  saucepan  with  the  orange  juice,  a  table-spoonful 
of  the  water  and  the  sugar.  Set  the  saucepan  in  another 
containing  boiling  water.  Beat  the  yolks  with  the  other 
table-spoonful  of  water,  and  when  the  mixture  in  the 
saucepan  is  hot,  stir  in  the  water  and  yolks.  Let  the 
preparation  cook  a  minute,  when  the  whole  should  be 
thickened;  and  just  before  taking  it  from  the  fire,  stir  in 
the  slightly  beaten  white  of  one  of  the  eggs.  Remove  at 
once  from  the  heat,  and  use  when  cold. 

ORANGE    FILLING,    NO.    2. 

Two  oranges  (juice,  and  grated  rind  of  but  one). 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
One  dessert-spoonful  of  corn-starch. 
One-half  cupful  of  sugar. 
One  egg. 

Place  the  corn-starch  in  half  of  the  water,  and  when  it  is 
dissolved,  stir  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  the  egg,  and  stir  until 
smooth.  Place  the  rest  of  the  water,  the  juice  of  the 
oranges  and  the  grated  rind  of  but  one  of  them,  on  the 
fire,  and  when  the  liquid  boils,  add  the  egg  mixture. 
Cook  two  minutes,  and  add  the  slightly  beaten  white  of 
the  egg  just  before  taking  the  filling  from  the  fire.  Cool 
partly  before  using. 

COCOANUT    FILLING. 

One  and  a-half  cupful  of  cocoanut. 
Two  eggs  (whites). 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 
A  little  milk. 

Moisten  the  cocoanut  with  a  little  warm  milk,  and  let  it 
soak  until  well  softened — usually  half  an  hour.  Beat  the 


548  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  the  sugar  to 
them.  Spread  on  the  bottom  cake  a  thin  layer  of  the 
frosting  of  egg  and  sugar,  and  then  a  covering  of  the 
soaked  cocoanut,  and  repeat  this  operation  until  all  the 
layers  are  arranged.  To  what  is  left  of  the  frosting,  add 
enough  sugar  to  thicken,  stir  in  the  remnant  of  cocoanut, 
and  spread  the  mixture  thickly  over  the  top,  sprinkling 
dry  cocoanut  over  the  whole. 

CHOCOLATE    FILLING,    NO.    I. 

One-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk.  .v 

One  cupful  of  brown  sugar. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Place  the  milk  and  chocolate  together  in  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  and  stir  until  the  whole  is  thick  and  creamy ; 
then  add  the  sugar,  stir  until  smooth,  and  cook  two  min- 
utes. Add  the  butter,  remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  the 
vanilla ;  use  when  slightly  cooled. 

For  the  top  of  the  cake  either  use  a  plain  frosting,  or 
else  apportion  the  filling  so  there  will  be  enough  left  to 
cover  the  top.  Return  this  portion  to  the  fire,  and  cook 
until  it  is  thick,  stirring  every  minute ;  then  spread  it  on 
the  top,  smoothing  it  down  with  a  knife  wet  in  hot  water. 

CHOCOLATE    FILLING,    NO.    2. 

One-half  cupful  of  grated  chocolate. 
One-half  cupful  of  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  white  sugar. 
Two  tea-spoonfuls  of  vanilla. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 


CAKE.  549 

Unite  the  ingredients  the  same  as  directed  in  the  preced- 
ing recipe.  This  is  not  so  sweet  and  rich  a  filling  as  No. 
i,  and  on  that  account  will  be  found  satisfactory  to  many. 

LEMON    FILLING. 

One-half  cupful  of  cold  water. 

One  cupful  of  sugar. 

One  even  table-spoonful  of  flour. 

One  lemon  (rind  and  juice). 

One  egg  (yolk  only). 

One  tea-spoonful  of  butter. 

Place  two  t^fole-spoonfuls  of  the  water  on  the  flour,  and 
stir  until  the  paste  is  perfectly  smooth  ;  then  add  the 
well  beaten  egg,  and  beat  again  vigorously  wiih  a  fork. 
Place  the  rest  of  the  water,  the  sugar,  the  lemon-juice 
and  grated  rind,  and  the  butter,  over  the  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan set  in  another  containing  boiling  water.  When  this 
mixture  is  boiling,  stir  into  it  the  flour  mixture,  cook  until 
it  is  shiny,  and  partly  cool  before  using. 

FROSTING    OR    ICING    CAKE. 

The  old  method  of  making  frosting  is  no  longer  fol- 
lowed. It  used  to  be  thought  necessary  to  beat  the  white 
of  the  egg  to  a  very  stiff  froth,  and  then  to  add  the  sugar. 
Frosting  made  in  this  way  is  extremely  hard  when 
cut  and  after  a  few  days  can  scarcely  be  cut  at  all.  There 
are  many  kinds  of  frosting  made  just  now,  but  none  are 
prepared  in  this  way,  except  for  elaborate  decorating.  It 
is  more  satisfactory  to  have  the  cake  cold  to  receive  the 
frosting,  for  when  it  is  hot,  the  sugar  in  the  icing  melts 
and  often  runs  down  the  sides  of  the  cake,  giving  the  lat- 
ter a  most  untidy  appearance. 


550  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK'. 

TO    DECORATE    WITH    ICING. 

It  requires  very  little  extra  labor  to  decorate  a  frosted 
cake,  and  it  can  be  done  as  soon  as  the  icing  is  cold  and 
set.  Funhels  having  ends  of  different  shape  may  be  pur- 
chased for  this  purpose.  In  place  of  a  funnel,  a  cornu- 
copia made  of  stiff  writing-paper  may  be  used.  Cut  off  a 
little  of  the  point  of  the  cornucopia,  fill  the  latter  with 
frosting,  and  press  it  out  at  the  small  end,  forming  differ- 
ent shapes  according  to  taste. 

When  a  name  or  a  date  is  to  be  placed  on  a  cake,  as  is 
frequently  the  case  with  children's  birthday  cakes,  etc., 
the  icing  may  be  colored  with  red  sugar,  dissolved 
chocolate  or  cochineal.  Trace  the  name  or  date  on 
the  center  of  the  cake  with  a  pencil,  and  then  follow 
the  lines  with  the  frosting.  An  easy  and  very  pretty  dec- 
oration is  made  by  placing  dry  red  sugar  in  the  cornuco- 
pia and  running  it  from  the  small  end  upon  the  soft  icing, 
making  a  name,  an  initial  or  a  date.  The  point  of  the 
cornucopia  should  be  very  small  for  this  work. 

PLAIN    FROSTING. 

One  egg  (white). 

Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Beat  the  white  only  enough  to  thin  it,  but  not  so  as 
to  make  it  frothy  ;  then  acid  the  sugar.  In  measuring  the 
sugar  have  the  spoonfuls  even  full— not  heaped.  Stir 
with  a  fork  until  the  frosting  is  perfectly  smooth  and 
light ;  the  longer  it  is  beaten  the  finer  it  will  be.  Add 
the  vanilla,  and  when  it  is  well  mixed  in  the  frosting  will 
be  ready  to  use.  Place  all  the  frosting  in  the  middle  of 


CAKE.  551 

the  cake,  and  press  it  outward  until  almost  rolling  to  the 
edge  ;  then  set  the  cake  in  a  current  of  cold  air,  if  possi- 
ble, to  set  the  icing  at  once,  so  it  will  not  run  off  the 
cake ;  or  set  it  in  the  refrigerator.  This  quantity  will 
make  a  very  deep  frosting  for  one  cake  only,  and  will 
really  be  sufficient  for  two  ordinary-sized  cakes. 

When  only  one  cake  is  to  be  iced  and  the  frosting  is 
not  desired  thick  or  deep,  beat  the  egg  thin,  measure  a 
large  table-spoonful  of  it,  and  to  this  add  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  the  sugar.  This  will  make  a  frosting  of 
sufficient  depth  to  suit  most  tastes.  Frosting  made  in 
this  way  will  form  a  crust  on  top,  under  which  the  sugar 
will  keep  soft. 

COCOANUT  FROSTING. 

Thicken  plain  frosting  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
prepared  cocoanut,  spread  it  upon  the  cake,  and  scatter 
dry  cocoanut  over  the  icing  while  still  soft. 

CHOCOLATE    FROSTING,  NO.    I. 

One  ounce  of  chocolate  (one  square) 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
One  table-spoonful  of  water. 

Place  these  ingredients  together  in  a  small  frying-pan, 
and  stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  the  mixture  is  smooth  and 
glossy.  Let  the  chocolate  cool,  add  it  to  plain  frosting, 
and  use. 

CHOCOLATE    FROSTING,    NO.    2. 

Take  equal  parts  of  grated  chocolate  and  powdered 
sugar.  Melt  the  chocolate  over  the  steam  of  a  tea-kettle, 
placing  it  for  this  purpose  in  an  earthenware  bowl  set  in 


552  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

the  top  of  the  kettle.  When  the  chocolate  is  melted,  add 
the  sugar  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla.  Stir  until 
nearly  cool,  and  use. 

BOILED    FROSTING. 

This  frosting  is  convenient  to  make  when  there  is  no 
powdered  sugar  at  hand.  The  following  will  make  an 
ample  allowance  for  one  cake  : 

One  cupful  of  granulated  sugar. 
One-quarter  cupful  of  boiling  water. 
One-quarter  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 
One  egg  (white). 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla. 

Place  the  sugar,  water  and  cream  of  tartar  in  a  small 
sauce-pan  set  in  another  containing  boiling  water,  and 
boil  for  six  minutes.  Do  not  stir  the  sugar  at  all,  or 
it  will  granulate.  Beat  the  egg  stiff,  and  gradually  add  to 
it  the  boiling  syrup,  pouring  the  latter  in  a  thin  stream  on 
the  egg,  and  stirring  rapidly.  Beat  for  five  minutes  after 
the  last  has  been  added,  and  flavor  to  taste. 

SOFT    FROSTING    WITHOUT  EGG. 

Twelve  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Eight  table-spoonfuls  of  milk. 

Boil  these  together  for  five  minutes  in  a  saucepan  set 
in  another  containing  boiling  water.  Remove  from  the 
fire,  and  stir  very  vigorously  until  cooled.  The  frosting  is 
then  ready  for  use. 

FROSTING    WITH    CONFECTIONERS'    SUGAR. 

This    sugar  makes    very   fine    frosting    and    does    not 


CAKE.  553 

require  the  use  of  an  egg  in  the  making.  By  confection- 
ers' sugar,  however,  is  not  meant  the  ordinary  powdered 
sugar,  although  both  are  about  the  same  price. 

For  a  Plain  Frosting. — Add  to  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  sugar  a  scanty  table-spoonful  of  water  or  milk,  stir 
well,  and  use.  Add  a  little  more  sugar,  if  the  frosting  is 
not  thick  enough. 

For  a  Chocolate  Frosting. — Make  the  plain  frosting,  and 
add  to  it  half  a  square  of  chocolate,  which  has  first 
been  put  in  a  cup  and  set  over  steam  to  melt,  being  used 
when  thoroughly  melted. 

FROSTING    WITH    GELATINE. 


One-half  table-spoonful  of  gelatine. 
One-half  table-spoonful  of  cold  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  boiling  water. 
Pulverized  sugar. 
Lemon  extract  to  flavor. 


face  the  gelatine  and  cold  water  in  a  bowl,  cover,  and 
let  the  gelatine  soak  half  an  hour  ;  then  add  the  boiling 
water,  stir  until  the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  and  strain  it 
through  a  fine  wire  strainer.  Add  sugar  to  thicken,  and 
a  tea-spoonful  of  the  extract.  Frost  when  the  cake  is 
perfectly  cold. 


BEVERAGES. 

"  If  the  kettle  boiling  be 
Seven  minutes  makes  the  tea." 

"  Hunger  is  the  best  seasoning  for  meat,  and  thirst  for  drink." 
TEA. 

TEA  is  the  dried  leaves  of  the  tea-plant ;  these  are 
picked  in  May  and  June  of  each  year,  the  plants  usually 
surviving  four  or  five  seasons.  The  tea-leaf  contains  a 
larger  amount  of  nutritive  matter  than  any  plant  used  for 
human  food,  although  but  a  small  portion  of  this  nourish- 
ment is  extracted  by  our  common  method  of  making  tea. 
By  that  method,  which,  of  course,  aims  to  produce  a  bev- 
erage only,  we  use  such  a  comparatively  small  quantity 
of  tea  that  the  amount  of  nutriment  obtained  is  very 
little,  the  chief  value  of  the  drink  being  the  sense  of 
warmth  and  comfort  that  it  diffuses  through  the  sys- 
tem. 

In  making  tea  a  tin  or  granite  pot  should  not  be  used, 
but  one  of  either  earthern,  china  or  silver  ware.  When  a 
metal  pot  is  used,  the  tannic  acid  acts  upon  the  metal, 
thus  producing  a  poisonous  compound.  The  water  should 
be  freshly  boiled  and,  used  at  the  first  boil,  as  after  it  boils 
a  few  minutes  it  parts  with  its  gases  and  becomes  flat 

554 


BEVERAGES.  555 

and  hard.  Pour  boiling  water  into  the  pot,  and  let  it 
remain  long  enough  to  thoroughly  heat  the  pot  ;  then 
pour  it  out,  put  in  the  tea,  pour  over  it  the  quantity  of 
boiling  water  required,  and  stand  the  pot  on  the  back 
part  of  the  stove  for  from  five  to  eight  minutes,  accord- 
ing to  the  kind  of  tea  used.  Most  varieties  of  tea  will  be 
ready  in  five  minutes,  but  the  English  Breakfast,  than 
which  there  is  no  better  tea,  requires  fully  eight  minutes 
to  extract  its  full  strength.  This  tea  should  be  placed  in 
a  greater  heat  than  any  other  kind.  It  should  be  almost 
hot  enough  to  boil,  but  the  boiling  point  should,  of 
course,  never  be  quite  reached.  The  quantity  of  dry  tea 
to  be  used  for  each  person  depends  altogether  upon  indi- 
vidual taste.  The  old  rule,  "  a  tea-spoonful  of  tea  for 
each  person  and  one  for  the  pot,"  is  a  good  one  to  follow, 
and  by  allowing  a  generous  half-pint  of  water  for  each 
spoonful  of  tea,  a  moderately  strong  brewing  is  obtained. 
When  several  cupfuls  of  tea  are  required  the  proportion 
of  tea  may  be  reduced. 

ICED  TEA. 

This  is  a  favorite  drink  in  summer.  Make  the  tea  as 
above  directed,  strain  it  from  the  leaves,  and  set  it  on 
the  ice  for  three  or  four  hours.  Serve  with  broken  ice  in 
each  glass. 

RUSSIAN    TEA. 

This  is  made  by  placing  -a  slice  of  lemon  in  each  cup 
before  pouring  in  the  boiling  hot  tea. 

COFFEE. 

Coffee  grows  on  small  trees.     Mocha,  the  best  variety, 


556  THE  PA  TTEKN  COOK-BOOK. 

is  grown  in  Arabia.  The  fruit  of  the  tree  is  something 
like  our  cherry  and  contains  two  seeds  or  beans.  By 
bruising  the  fruit,  the  berries  are  separated,  and  they  are 
then  washed  and  dried.  The  raw  berries  are  tough  and 
contain  but  little  flavor.  Much  depends  upon  the  man- 
ner in  which  the  berries  are  roasted.  Comparatively  few 
people  nowadays  roast  their  own  coffee,  the  work  being 
done  so  well  by  the  large  establishments.  Mocha  and 
Java  mixed — one-third  of  the  former  and  two-thirds  of 
the  latter — is  considered  the  most  satisfactory  combina- 
tion by  the  majority  of  people.  Buy  coffee  in  small 
quantities  and  unground,  keep  it  in  air-tight  tin  cans, 
and  grind  it  only  as  required.  The  finer  it  is  ground,  the 
stronger  will  be  the  extract. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  coffee-pots  in  use,  and  many 
are  modifications  of  the  French  coffee-pot  or  biggin.  The 
coffee  may  be  made  in  anything  resembling  the  French 
coffee-pot,  as  none  of  the  aroma  is  lost,  the  spout  of  the 
pot  being  closed  with  a  thimble  that  prevents  the  escape 
of  the  steam.  The  coffee  is  filtered  and  comes  out 
clear  and  bright. 

TO  MAKE  FILTERED  COFFEE. 

The  coffee  should  be  ground  as  fine  as  the  mill  will 
make  it.  Allow  half  a  cupful  of  the  ground  coffee  to  a 
generous  quart  of  water;  this  makes  sufficient  for  five 
cupfuls  of  coffee.  Place  the  coffee  in  the  cloth  or  strainer 
in  the  top  of  the  pot,  arranged  for  the  purpose,  pour  the 
boiling  water  upon  it,  and  set  the  pot  back,  allowing  the 
water  to  filter  slowly  through.  When  it  is  all  through, 
set  the  pot  over  the  heat,  and  when  the  coffee  is  just  at 
the  bubbling  point,  pour  it  out,  and  at  once  return  it  to 


BEVERAGES.  557 

the  top  of  the  pot  to  filter  once  more.  Do  this  still 
again,  making  three  times  in  all  that  the  water  has 
been  poured  upon  the  coffee ;  and  serve  at  once.  This 
produces  a  clear,  bright  coffee  and  requires,  at  the  most, 
not  longer  than  five  minutes  in  the  making,  if  the  heat  is 
properly  brisk.  Coffee  should  be  served  as  soon  as 
made,  or  the  bright  tiavor  will  be  lost. 

BOILED    COFFEE.    (iN    COMMON    COFFEE-POT.) 

One  cupful  of  unground  coffee. 

One  egg. 

One  quart  of  boiling  water. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Grind  the  coffee  coarsely,  and  put  it  into  the  pot, 
which  should  be  well  scalded.  Beat  the  egg  well,  add  to 
it  the  cold  water,  and  stir  this  mixture  into  the  dry  coffee 
in  the  pot ;  then  pour  on  the  boiling  water,  and  place  the 
pot  on  the  fire.  Stir  the  coffee  until  it  boils,  and  then 
set  it  on  the  back  of  the  stove  where  it  will  just  bubble 
for  ten  minutes.  Pour  a  little  of  the  coffee  into  a  cup 
and  return  it  to  the  pot,  to  clear  the  grounds  from  the 
spout.  Let  the  coffee  stand  for  five  minutes  where  it 
will  not  bubble,  pour  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a  hot 
serving  pot,  and  send  to  the  table  at  once.  This  makes 
a  very  strong  coffee,  and  more  or  less  water  may  be 
used,  according  as  the  coffee  is  liked  weak  or  strong. 

A  cup  of  coffee  is  not  perfect  without  cream.  If 
cream  cannot  be  used,  the  next  best  thing  for  many 
tastes  is  condensed  milk.  When  this  is  disliked,  hot 
milk  may  be  substituted.  The  milk  should  be  heated  to 
the  boiling  point,  but  should  not  boil.  Never  serve  cold 
milk  with  coffee.  The  cups  should  be  warmed  with  hot 


558  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

water  before  being  used  for  the  coffee,  as  the  latter  can 
scarcely  be  served  hot  enough  and  is  simply  a  disas- 
trous failure  when  half  cold. 

AFTER-DINNER    BLACK    COFFEE. 

This  is  made  by  either  of  the  recipes  given,  double  the 
proportion  of  coffee  being  used.  It  should  be  very 
strong  and  clear  and  should  be  served  in  small  cups, 
with  block  sugar,  if  desired,  but  never  with  cream  or 
milk. 

VIENNA    COFFEE. 

This  is  the  same  as  the  ordinary  coffee,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  whipped  cream  at  serving. 

CAFE    AU    LAIT. 

This  is  made  of  equal  quantities  of  filtered  coffee  and 
boiled  milk. 

COCOA. 

Cocoa  or  chocolate  nuts  are  the  seeds  of  a  tree  growing 
in  Mexico,  the  West  Indies  and  South  America.  These 
seeds  are  roasted  the  same  as  coffee,  until  the  aroma  is 
brought  out.  They  are  then  pounded  to  a  paste  in  a  hot 
mortar  or  ground  between  rollers.  The  substance  thus 
produced,  when  mixed  with  sugar,  starch,  vanilla  and 
cinnamon,  forms  the  chocolate  of  commerce. 

Cocoa  is  made  by  grinding  the  bean  fine,  partly  extract- 
ing ihe  oil,  and  mixing  a  small  proportion  of  sugar  with 
the  remaining  powder. 

Cocoa  nibs  are  the  bean  deprived  of  its  husks  and 
then  broken  into  small  pieces.  This  is  the  purest  and 


BEVERAGES.  559 

best  cocoa  in  our  market.  The  shells  or  husks  are  also 
used  to  make  a  weak  decoction  for  people  with  delicate 
digestion. 

TO    MAKE    COCOA. 

One  quart  of  milk. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  cocoa. 

Put  the  milk  on  the  fire  in  a  farina  kettle.  Moisten  the 
cocoa  with  a  little  cold  milk,  and  pour  it  into  the  milk  in 
the  kettle  as  soon  as  it  boils,  stirring  all  the  while  it  is 
being  added.  Stir  until  the  milk  again  boils,  cover  the 
kettle,  boil  five  minutes,  and  serve.  Whipped  cream  is 
often  served  with  cocoa. 

COCOA    FROM    THE    NIBS. 

One-half  cupful  of  broken  cocoa. 
Two  quarts  of  water. 
One  pint  of  cream. 

Place  the  cocoa  and  water  together  in  the  double  boiler, 
and  boil  them  for  two  hours,  when  they  should  be  reduced 
in  quantity  one-half.  Heat  the  cream,  add  it,  strain,  and 
serve. 

COCOATINA. 

This  is  very  like  chocolate,  but  is  more  delicate,  and  is 
nearly  free  from  oil. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  of  cocoatina. 
One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 
One  and  a-half  pint  of  milk. 

Place  the  cocoatina  in   a  bowl   with   the   sugar,  add  the 


560  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

boiling  water,  and  rub  the  cocoa  to  a  paste.  Heat  the 
milk  to  boiling,  stir  in  the  paste,  whisk  well,  pour  into  a 
hot  jug,  and  serve.  If  liked  stronger,  more  of  the  powder 

may  be  used. 

BROMA. 

One  large  table-spoonful  of  broma. 
Four  large  table-spoonfuls  of  boiling  water. 
One  table-spoonful  of  sugar. 
One  pint  of  milk  (hot). 

Place  the  broma  in  a  sauce-pan,  and  add  the  water,  stir- 
ring all  the  time.  Add  the  milk,  which  should  be  boiling, 
and  then  the  sugar.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire,  stir  until 
the  mixture  boils,  and  serve  at  once. 

CHOCOLATE. 

When  properly  made,  this  is  a  very  delicious  drink. 
As  in  the  case  of  tea  and  coffee,  tastes  differ  as  to  its 
strength,  one  ounce  of  plain  chocolate  to  one  quart  of 
milk  being,  however,  the  proportion  generally  liked. 
Many  prefer  the  chocolate  thick,  making  it  so  by  using  a 
large  quantity  of  chocolate,  by  putting  in  some  thicken- 
ing substance,  such  as  arrowroot,  corn-starch,  etc.,  or  by 
mulling  the  chocolate.  The  small  dasher  that  comes  in 
the  regular  chocolate  pot  is  called  the  muller,  and  is 
worked  up  and  down  the  same  as  the  dasher  of  a  churn. 
This  froths  and  thickens  the  chocolate.  Should  there  be 
no  muller  among  the  kitchen  utensils,  the  chocolate  may 
be  made  in  a  double  boiler,  and  then  whipped  with  a 
cream  whipper  or  a  Dover  egg  beater.  Whipped  cream 
is  often  served  with  chocolate ;  it  should  be  whipped  and 
drained,  and  may  be  served  either  plain,  or  slightly  sea- 
soned with  sugar  and  vanilla. 


BEVERAGES.  561 

PLAIN    CHOCOLATE, 

Two  squares  of  chocolate. 
One  quart  of  milk. 
Three  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  water. 

Place  the  milk  in  a .  double  boiler  to  heat.  Scrape  the 
chocolate  fine,  and  put  it  in  a  small  frying-pan  with  the 
sugar  and  water ;  set  it  in  a  good  heat,  stir  constantly 
until  smooth  and  glossy,  and  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
milk.  Beat  with  a  whisk  for  three  minutes,  and  serve 
hot. 

A  richer  drink  is  made  by  doubling  the  amount  of 
chocolate  mentioned  above.  A  good  chocolate  is  also 
made  by  using  with  the  same  quantity  (two  squares)  a 
pint  of  milk  and  one  of  water.  If  the  chocolate  is  de- 
sired thick,  mix  a  table-spoonful  of  arrowroot  or  corn- 
starch  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  milk,  stir  this  into 
the  boiling  milk,  and  cook  for  ten  minutes  before  adding 
the  dissolved  chocolate.  Half  a  tea-spoonful  of  vanilla 
may  be  added  to  the  chocolate,  if  cared  for. 

SUMMER  DRINKS. 
ROOT-BEER. 

There  is  no  summer  beverage,  perhaps,  that  is  more 
refreshing  than  root-beer,  and  it  is  very  easy  to  make. 
When  the  roots  had  first  to  be  steeped  and  the  strength 
thus  obtained,  the  making  of  the  beer  was  a  laborious 
task  ;  but  now,  many  root  extracts  are  procurable  at 
little  cost,  and  are  wholly  satisfactory.  Hire's  extracts 
are  among  the  best. 
36 


-62  THE  PATTERN  COuK-BOOK. 

~    • 

Fourteen  quarts  of  water. 

Two  quarts  of  sugar. 

Three  tea-spoonfuls  of  extract  of  ginger. 

One  bottle  of  Hire's  Extract. 

One  scant  pint  of  baker's  yeast. 

Place  all  these  ingredients  together  in  an  earthenware 
jar,  stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  bottle  immedi- 
ately. The  corks  of  the  bottles  should  be  tied  securely 
down  or  the  contents  will  be  lost.  This  is  the  difficult 
part  of  the  work,  but  if  the  common  beer  bottle  with  pat- 
ent cork  is  to  be  had,  it  will  be  found  most  convenient, 
and  as  they  last  for  years,  the  expense  is  not  great.  Use 
the  beer  after  it  has  been  made  one  week. 

A  recipe  for  making  root-beer  may  be  found  in  the 
'package  of  any  kind  of  extract  sold,  but  such  directions 
can  scarcely  be  depended  upon,  as  each  manufacturer  en- 
deavors to  impress  upon  the  purchaser  the  large  quantity 
of  beer  that  can  be  made  from  a  single  bottle  of  his  ex- 
tract. A  tasteless,  unsatisfactory  drink  usually  results 
from  following  these  formulas.  Set  the  beer  on  ice  be- 
fore using. 

HOP    BEER. 

Two  quarts  of  dry  hops. 

Twelve  quarts  of  water. 

One  quart  of  molasses. 

One  cake  of  compressed  yeast. 

Three  table-spoonfuls  of  ginger. 

One  table-spoonful  of  wintergreen  essence. 

Steep  the  hops  very  slowly  for  two  hours  in  two  quarts 
of  the  water ;  then  strain,  and  add  the  rest  of  the  ingredi- 
ents, adding  the  water  first  to  make  the  whole  tepid  be- 
fore adding  the  yeast  cake,  which  will  dissolve  in  the 


BEVERAGES.  563 

water.  Let  all  stand  in  an  earthen  jar  for  twelve  hours  ; 
then  strain,  and  bottle  tightly.  This  is  a  pleasant  drink, 
and  a  tonic  as  well. 

PHILADELPHIA    MEAD. 

One  quart  of  boiling  water. 

One-half  pint  of  molasses. 

Two  and  a-quarter  pounds  of  brown  sugar. 

One-half  ounce  of  flavoring  extract. 

Two  ounces  of  tartaric  acid. 

Put  the  water,  sugar,  molasses  and  acid  together;  and 
when  the  mixture  is  cold,  add  the  extract,  which  may  be 
the  essence  of  wintergreen  or  sassafras — or  any  other 
kind  used  for  such  a  purpose.  Bottle,  and  set  away  in  a 
cold  place.  To  make  the  mead,  place  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  syrup  in  a  glass  of  ice-water,  stir  until  well  mixed, 
and  add  a-quarter  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda 
to  render  the  drink  effervescent.  This  is  a  most  refresh- 
ing summer  beverage. 

RASPBERRY    SHRUB. 

Place  any  quantity  of  red  raspberries  in  a  stone  jar, 
cover  them  with  good  cider  vinegar,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  twelve  hours  ;  then  strain,  and  to  each  pint  of  the 
juice  add  a  pint  of  sugar.  Boil  ten  minutes,  and  bottle 
while  hot.  In  using,  add  enough  to  a  glass  of  ice-water 
to  suit  the  taste. 

MOTHER'S  HARVEST  GINGER  DRINK. 

One  egg. 

One  quart  of  very  cold  water. 

One-half  pint  of  vinegar. 

One  scant  table-spoonful  of  ginger. 

Three  tabie-spoonfuls  of  sugar. 


564  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Beat  the  egg  well,  add  to  it  the  sugar  and  ginger,  stir 
until  perfectly  smooth,  and  then  put  in  the  water.  When 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  add  the  vinegar,  using  this,  how- 
ever, according  to  its  strength,  only  enough  being  re- 
quired to  give  the  drink  piquancy. 

WINE,    AND    HOW   TO   SERVE   IT. 

The  number  of  kinds  of  wine  used  at  dinner  varies 
with  the  taste  of  the  host  or  hostess.  When  a  great  dis- 
play is  desired,  as  many  as  twelve  varieties  are  served, 
but  for  ordinary  dinners  four  is  generally  the  limit. 
Indeed,  many  dinners  are  now  given  at  which  wine  is 
omitted  altogether,  and  at  simple  dinners  there  is  often  but 
one  wine,  which  is  a  choice  claret  or  champagne.  When 
three  wines  are  to  be  served,  they  usually  consist  of  a  fine 
sherry  with  the  soup,  claret  with  the  course  after  the  fish, 
and  champagne  with  the  roast.  If  champagne  alone  is 
selected,  it  should  be  served  just  after  the  fish.  The 
following  may  serve  as  a 

WINE   MENU. 

With  Raw  Oysters          White  Wine  (Sauterne,  Rhine,  etc). 
',;     I™?'}  Sherry  or  Madeira. 

"      Meat,  Champagne. 

"      Game,  Claret 

"      Dessert,  Sherry,  Port  or  Burgundy. 

Regarding  the  temperature  at  which  wines  should  be 
served  :  sherry  should  be  thoroughly  chilled ;  Madeira 
neither  warm  nor  cold,  but  about  the  temperature  of  the 
room  ;  claret  the  same  as  Madeira,  and  never  with  ice  ; 
and  champagne  can  scarcely  be  served  too  cold. 


BEVERAGES.  565 

Wine  should  be  unpacked  as  soon  as  possible  after  de- 
livery, and  the  bottles  laid  upon  their  sides  in  some  place 
in  which  the  changes  of  temperature  will  not  be  felt. 
Red  wines,  especially  clarets,  should  be  kept  dry  and 
warm,  as  they  are  injured  more  by  cold  than  by  heat. 
They  are,  therefore,  better  stored  elsewhere  than  in  the 
cellar.  Champagne  and  Rhine  wines  withstand  cold  bet- 
ter than  heat,  the  latter  often  causing  fermentation. 
Sherry,  Maderia  and  all  spirits  should  be  kept  warm. 


FRUIT:  HOW  TO   SERVE  IT. 

'  "  Have  you  apples,  good  grocer  ? ' 
'  O  yes,  ma'm  !  how  many  ? '  " 

MARY  MAPES  DODGE. 

THE  arrangement  of  fresh  fruits  for  the  table  affords 
play  for  the  most  artistic  taste.  Melons,  apples,  oranges 
— indeed,  all  kinds  of  fruit  are  appropriate  for  breakfast. 

APPLES. 

Select  for  the  table  only  those  that  are  most  sightly. 
They  should  be  wiped  and  brightly  polished  with  a  soft 
towel.  Serve  in  a  fruit  dish  or  a  small,  pretty  basket. 
Provide  silver  knives  at  each  plate  for  cutting  the  fruit. 

BANANAS. 

These  are  served  whole,  the  red  and  yellow  being 
mixed. 

PEACHES. 

Rub  the  down  carefully  off  the  peaches,  and  serve  them 
in  a  pretty  basket,  with  peach  leaves  peeping  through 
them  ;  or  they  may  be  pared,  sliced,  sprinkled  with  pow- 
dered sugar  and  sent  to  table  immediately  the  sugar  is 
added.  Serve  thick,  sweet  cream  with  peaches  when  pre- 
pared in  this  way. 

566 


FRUIT:  HOW  TO  SERVE  IT.  56? 

PEARS. 
These  are  served  the  same  as  apples. 

PINEAPPLE. 

Pare  the  fruit,  remove  the  eyes,  and  pick  it  into  small 
pieces  with  a  silver  fork,  beginning  at  the  stump  end  and 
tearing  the  fruit  from  the  core.  Sprinkle  the  shredded 
pineapple  with  powdered  sugar,  and  set  it  in  a  cold  place 
for  at  least  one  hour  before  it  is  needed. 

POMEGRANATES. 

Remove  the  outside  skin,  and  carefully  take  out  the 
seeds,  rejecting  all  the  brown  skin  that  divides  the  sec- 
tions. Heap  the  seeds  in  a  pretty  dish,  mix  with  them 
finely  chopped  ice,  and  serve. 

BERRIES. 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  etc.,  should  be  carefully 
picked  over  a  few  minutes  before  serving  time,  and 
heaped  on  a  glass  dish.  Pass  sugar  and  cream  with  the 
berries  at  table.  Berries  should  never  be  washed.  If 
soiled,  they  should  not  be  purchased.  When  berries 
raised  in  one's  own  garden  become  soiled  by  a  heavy 
rain,  they  may  be  used,  after  the  needed  washing,  in  mak- 
ing pies  or  shortcakes,  but  should  never  be  served  alone. 
In  France  large  strawberries  are  sent  to  table  without 
being  hulled  ;  sugar  is  placed  in  the  center  of  the  saucer 
passed  to  each  person,  and  the  strawberries  are  taken  by 
the  hulls  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  dipped  in  the 
sugar  and  so  eaten. 


568  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

CURRANTS. 

Stem  the  currants,  and  heap  them  on  a  dish  in  rows  of 
red  and  white,  placing  a  border  of  leaves  around  the  out- 
side. This  fruit  is  also  served  unstemmed,  in  which 
case  large  clusters  should  be  selected.  They  should  be 
rinsed  by  being  dipped  repeatedly  in  cold  water,  and  then 
drained  on  a  sieve.  Arrange  the  clusters  on  a  pretty 
dish,  and  serve  in  saucers  around  a  small  pyramid  of 
powdered  sugar,  the  fruit  when  eaten  being  dipped  in  the 
sugar  and  eaten  from  the  stem. 

GRAPES. 

If  the  grapes  are  at  all  soiled,  or  if  they  are  Malagas, 
they  should  be  rinsed  in  cold  water  and  drained  on  a 
sieve,  after  which  they  may  be  arranged  on  a  pretty  bas- 
ket. Fruit  scissors  should  accompany  the  basket,  with 
which  to  divide  the  clusters,  if  desired. 

ORANGES. 

There  are  many  fancy  ways  of  cutting  oranges  for  serv- 
ing, but  these  always  produce  a  strained  effect  that  im- 
presses the  beholder  with  an  unpleasant  hint  of  vulgar- 
ity. It  is,  therefore,  wiser  to  serve  this  fruit  plain.  At 
table  they  may  be  cut  crosswise  and  eaten  with  a 
spoon,  or  they  may  be  separated  into  sections  and  eaten 
thus  from  the  ringers. 

WATERMELON. 

This  should  be  thoroughly  chilled  before  being  used. 
There  are  many  ways  of  cutting.  The  melon  may  be 
simply  cut  in  two,  and  a  slice  cut  from  each  convex  end 
so  that  the  portions  will  stand  firmly  on  the  platter.  In 


FRUIT:  HOW  TO  SERVE  IT.  569 

serving  the  pulp  is  scooped  out  with  a  table-spoon. 
Another  method  of  serving  that  produces  a  very  attract- 
ive dish  consists  in  peeling  the  entire  melon,  leaving  only 
the  red  ball,  which  is  sliced  at  table. 

CANTALOUPES. 

These  are  cut  in  halves  and  the  seeds  carefully  re- 
moved, half  a  melon  being  passed  to  each  person ;  and 
they  should  be  very  cold  for  serving. 

They  may  be  eaten  with  a  spoon  or  fork,  and  salt 
should  be  at  hand  for  those  who  desire  it.  The  half  mel- 
ons are  often  sent  to  table  filled  with  pounded  ice. 

HOW   TO    ICE    FRUITS    FOR    SERVING. 

Currants,  plums,  grapes,  cherries  and  many  other  fruits 
make  a  most  refreshing  and  appetizing  breakfast  dish 
when  iced.  This  is  done  in  the  following  manner  :  Beat 
the  white  of  an  egg  just  enough  to  thin  it ;  dip  the  fruit  in 
the  egg,  and  while  still  moist,  roll  it  in  powdered  sugar, 
and  place  on  a  sieve  to  dry.  This  work,  of  course, 
should  be  done  the  previous  day. 

COOKED  FRUITS. 

BAKED    APPLES,    NO.   I. 

Use  sweet  apples  for  baking.  Cut  out  the  blossom 
ends,  wash,  but  do  not  pare  the  apples,  and  place  them 
in  a  large  pudding-dish  ;  pour  a  cupful  of  water  into  the 
dish,  cover  the  latter  closely  with  another  dish  or  a  pan, 
set  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  the  apples  until 
tender.  Remove  them  from  the  dish,  pour  the  juice  over 
them  while  hot,  and  repeat  this  as  they  cool.  Set  the 
apples  on  the  ice,  and  at  serving  time  transfer  them  to  a 


570  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

glass  dish,  pouring  the  juice  over  them  again.  Eat  with 
powdered  sugar  and  cream.  Apples  will  not  brown  when 
baked  in  this  way,  but  will  be  deliciously  flavored. 

BAKED   APPLES,    NO.    2. 

Select  tart  apples,  and  pare  them  or  not,  as  preferred. 
Extract  the  cores  without  breaking  the  apples,  fill  the 
cavities  thus  formed  with  sugar,  sift  a  little  cinnamon  on 
top,  and  add  an-eighth  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  butter  to 
each  apple.  Place  the  apples  in  an  earthenware  baking- 
dish,  cover  the  bottom  with  water,  and  bake  until  the 
fruit  is  soft,  basting  occasionally  with  the  syrup. 

QUINCES. 

These  are  baked  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe,  the  spice  being  omitted.  Quinces 
require  a  long  time  in  baking,  and  frequent  basting. 

APPLE    SAUCE. 

Pare,  core  and  quarter  tart  apples  ;  place  them  in  a 
granite-ware  kettle  with  enough  water  to  keep  them  from 
burning,  and  cook  until  tender.  Turn  them  into  a  col- 
ander, pulp  them  through,  and  season  to  taste  with  sugar 
and  a  little  powdered  cinnamon.  Return  the  sauce  to  the 
kettle,  stew  it  slowly,  until  the  sugar  is  thoroughly  dis- 
solved, and  set  it  on  the  ice. 

STEWED   APPLES.' 

Pare,  core  and  quarter  tart  apples.  Make  a  syrup  of  a 
cupful  of  sugar,  two-thirds  of  a  cupful  of  water  and  a 
little  lemon-peel.  When  the  syrup  boils,  add  the  apples, 
and  cook  carefully  until  they  are  tender  but  not  broken. 


FRUIT:  HOW  TO  SERVE  IT.  571 

Remove  them  carefully,  boil  the  syrup  down  a  little,  and 
strain  it  over  the  apples. 

SPICED    APPLES. 

Place  one  cupful  of  sugar  and  three  cupfuls  of  water  in 
a  granite-ware  pan,  and  add  eight  cloves  and  a  three-inch 
piece  of  cinnamon  or  a  bit  of  ginger  root.  Closely  cover 
the  pan,  and  boil  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.  Wipe  a 
number  of  small,  tart  apples,  extract  the  stem  and  blos- 
som ends,  and  cook  the  fruit  in  the  syrup  until  tender, 
taking  care  that  the  apples  are  not  broken.  Lift  them 
out  into  a  dish,  boil  the  syrup  until  reduced  one-third, 
and  strain  it  over  the  apples. 

SPICED  PEARS. 

These  are  prepared  the  same  as  spiced  apples ;  but  if 
the  pears  are  dry  and  hard,  they  should  be  parboiled 
slowly  in  clear  water  before  being  cooked  in  the  syrup, 
as  the  sugar  will  harden  them,  and  they  will  .not  be- 
come tender  if  put  into  the  syrup  for  the  entire  cook- 
ing. 

STEWED    PRUNES. 

Wash  the  prunes  carefully,  and  if  hard  and  dry,  soak 
them  an  hour  in  cold  water  before  cooking.  Place  them 
in  a  porcelain-lined  or  granite-ware  kettle,  with  boiling 
water  to  cover.  Cover  the  kettle  closely,  and  boil  slowly 
until  the  prunes  are  swollen  and  tender.  Then  add  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  sugar  to  every  pint  of  prunes,  and  boil 
a  few  minutes  longer,  but  not  long  enough  to  break  the 
skins.  If  the  prunes  lack  flavor,  add  a  little  lemon-juice. 


5/2  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


RHUBARB    SAUCE. 

Peel  the  rhubarb,  and  cut  it  into  inch  lengths ;  place  it 
in  a  granite-ware  stew-pan,  and  for  each  quart  of  rhubarb 
add  a  tea-cupful  of  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  water. 
Stew  slowly  until  tender. 

BAKED    RHUBARB    SAUCE. 

Proceed  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  and  after  adding 
the  water  and  sugar,  place  all  in  an  earthenware  baking- 
dish.  Cover  the  dish,  and  bake  slowly  for  two  hours. 
The  rhubarb  will  be  found  of  a  rich  color  when  done,  and 
it  will  not  have  cooked  to  pieces. 

SAUCE   OF    DRIED    FRUITS. 

This  may  be  made  of  evaporated  apples  or  peaches  or 
of  dried  berries  or  plums.  If  apples  or  peaches  are  used, 
wash  them  carefully  in  cold  water,  rubbing  them  between 
the  hands  the  same  as  in  washing  rice.  Place  the  fruit 
in  a  large  bowl,  allow  a  quart  of  water  to  each  pint  of 
fruit,  and  leave  the  latter  to  soak  over  night.  In  the 
morning  put  both  fruit  and  water  in  a  granite-ware  sauce- 
pan, add  a  cupful  of  sugar,  and,  if  apples  are  used, 
also  put  in  the  juice  of  one  lemon.  Set  the  pan  on  the 
back  of  the  range  and  cook  slowly  for  three  hours,  not 
stirring  the  fruit  while  cooking.  When  done,  turn  the 
sauce  into  a  bowl,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Berries 
require  careful  washing,  and  will  cook  tender  much  more 
quickly  than  apples,  but  they  must  be  soaked  over  night 
in  order  to  be  of  proper  flavor  when  done.  Plums  re- 
quire a  large  amount  of  sugar  in  cooking,  the  quantity 
varying  according  to  the  kind  used. 


COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK. 

"  Of  herbs  and  other  country  messes, 
Which  the  neat-handed  Phillis  dresses." 

MILTON. 

A  GOOD  nurse  is  now  considered  of  as  much  impor- 
tance in  the  sick-room  as  a  skillful  physician.  Not  the 
least  among  the  nurse's  duties  is  to  provide  food  for  the 
sufferer — food  that  shall  be  palatable  and  inviting  and  at 
the  same  time  nourishing  and  wholesome.  Every  mother 
of  a  family  ought  to  know  how  to  cater  to  the  fitful  appe- 
tite and  weak  digestion  of  an  invalid.  The  three  great 
events  of  the  day  to  the  poor  bedridden  patient  are  the 
three  meals,  and  these  should  be  most  delicately  and 
carefully  prepared. 

The  sick  person  should  not  be  asked  what  he  would 
like  to  have  served,  for  he  will  surely  sicken  of  food  with 
the  effort  of  selection  and  will  very  likely  end  by  saying, 
"  Nothing  at  all !  "  He  should  be  watched  carefully  and 
the  slightest  intimation  of  a  desire  for  any  particular 
delicacy  should  be  immediately  considered  ;  and  if  the 
desired  food  will 'not  prove  injurious,  it  should  be  pre- 
pared at  once,  and  without  the  patient's  knowledge,  if 
possible,  so  it  may  prove  a  complete  surprise.  By  all 
means  make  every  dish,  no  matter  what  its  nature,  as 

573 


5  74  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

dainty  and  attractive  looking  as  may  be,  and  be  sure  it  is 
well  cooked.  The  eye,  -as  well  as  the  palate,  of  the 
patient  is  to  be  considered  ;  therefore,  serve  the  invalid's 
meals  on  the  choicest  ware  you  possess,  accompanied  by 
the  snowiest  of  napkins  and  the  brightest  of  silver. 
Only  a  little  food  should  be  served  at  a  time,  for  fear  of 
frightening  away  the  wavering  appetite  by  the  sight  of 
much  food.  A  bit  of  green  on  a  chop  or  steak  will  add 
much  to  the  daintiness  of  the  dish. 

All  through  the  present  work  are  given  recipes  for 
dishes  that  an  invalid  may  eat  with  pleasure  and  safety. 
Among  these  are  nearly  all  the  soups,  carefully  cooked 
meats  and  fish,  all  kinds  of  bread  (if  not  fresh),  cooked 
fruits,  simple  puddings,  in  the  making  of  which  no  fat  is 
used,  jellies,  creams  and  other  light  desserts.  Re-cooked 
meats,  fish  or  vegetables  should  never  be  offered  to  an 
invalid.  Milk  is  now  given  in  all  kinds  of  illness  ;  and 
when  it  does  not  agree  with  the  patient,  a  table-spoonful 
of  lime-water  added  to  each  glassful  will  generally  pre- 
vent any  disagreeable  consequences.  Hot  milk  is  con- 
sidered a  good  stimulant  after  much  fatigue.  It  should 
not  be  allowed  to  boil,  but  should  just  reach  that  point 
and  be  served  as  hot  as  possible,  the  cup  being  heated 
before  being  used,  and  the  milk  being  covered  with  the 
inverted  saucer  while  on  its  way  to  the  sick-room.  The 
patient  should  sip  the  milk  as  hot  as  can  be  borne,  and 
will  often  find  it  as  strengthening  in  its  results  as  wine  or 
liquor. 

In  preparing  any  of  the  grain  foods  for  a  sick  person, 
extra  care  should  be  taken  that  they  are  sufficiently  well 
cooked,  else  the  result  may  be  hurtful.  Of  the  laxative 
articles  of  diet,  oatmeal  is  one  of  the  most  important. 


COOKERY  FOR   THE  SICK,  575 

It  stands  before  all  other  grains  in  point  of  nutrition. 
Rice  is  also  a  very  valuable  article  of  food  in  cases  of 
digestive  derangement.  It  nourishes  and  soothes  at  the 
same  time,  and  supports  the  strength  most  desirably. 
For  acute  affections  of  the  alimentary  canal,  rice-water  for 
drink  and  rice  jelly  for  food  form  a  particularly  appropri- 
ate diet.  These  preparations  are  also  advised  during 
convalescence  from  acute  fever,  and  other  maladies  where 
there  is  intestinal  trouble,  especially  in  the  summer  com- 
plaints of  young  children.  The -value  of  corn-meal  for 
invalids  who  are  thin  and  low  of  temperature  is  but  little 
appreciated.  Corn-meal  contains  a  large  percentage  of 
oil,  which  is  heat-producing  and  nourishing. 

Of  meats,  none  is  so  juicy  and  appetizing  as  a  beef- 
steak from  a  proper  cut  and  properly  cooked.  Pork  and 
veal  should  never  be  given  in  any  form  to  a  sick  person. 
Some  physicians  claim  that  venison  is  the  most  easily 
digested  and  assimilated  of  meats,  and  class  mutton  next 
and  beef  third;  but  beef  can  often  be  eaten  when  no 
other  variety  of  meat  can  even  be  tasted. 

BEEF-TEA. 

In  families  where  little  time  is  given  to  preparing 
invalid  dishes,  the  extract  of  beef  is  much  to  be  preferred 
in  the  making  of  beef-tea.  In  this  way  the  tea  can  be 
made  as  strong  or  weak  as  may  be  desired,  and  may  be  got 
ready  quickly,  hot  water  and  a  little  salt  (generally  half  a 
tea-spoonful  to  a  cupful  of  water)  being  all  that  is  neces- 
sary besides  the  extract.  A  physician  of  large  practice 
has  said  that  beef-tea  made  in  this  way  is  much  better 
than  three-fourths  of  that  prepared  direct  from  the  beef, 
and  that  only  with  exceptionally  good  nurses  would  he 


5/6  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

allow  any  other  kind  to  be  administered  to  his  patients. 
In  making  tea  from  the  beef,  have  the  meat  cut  from  the 
round  and  chopped  very  fine  by  the  butcher.  To  a 
pound  of  meat  allow  a  pint  of  cold  water.  Put  the 
water  on  the  meat  in  a  covered  saucepan,  and  let  the 
latter  stand  for  an  hour  on  the  back  of  the  stove  in  a  very 
moderate  heat,  stirring  frequently;  then  place  it  in  a 
stronger  heat,  letting  the  liquid  heat  up  very  slowly,  and 
simmer  for  an  hour  longer.  Add  salt  to  taste,  strain  and 
set  away  to  cool.  When  cold  remove  every  particle  of 
fat  from  the  top,  and  heat  up  only  the  quantity  needed 
for  immediate  use.  When  the  tea  is  required  in  a 
hurry,  the  grease  may  be  taken  off  by  laying  a  white 
paper  on  top  of  the  warm  liquid. 

STRONGER     BEEF-TEA. 

Place  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  lean  beef  in  a  wide- 
mouthed  bottle,  or  in  a  fruit-jar.  Add  to  it  half  a  pint  of 
cold  water,  and  let  it  stand  for  an  hour  ;  then  place  the 
bottle  in  a  sauce-pan  of  cold  water,  place  the  pan  on  the 
fire,  and  heat  the  water  slowly  almost  to  the  boiling 
point,  but  be  careful  not  to  let  it  boil.  Cook  in  this 
way  for  two  hours  ;  then  strain,  and  season  with  salt  to 
taste. 

The  thick  sediment  that  falls  to  the  bottom  of  beef-tea 
after  it  has  stood  for  a  short  time,  is  the  most  nutritious 
part  of  the  preparation  ;  yet  many  ignorantly  serve  only 
the  clearer  and  poorer  part  to  the  patient.  It  is  to  keep 
this  sediment  (the  albuminoids)  in  a  safe,  digestible  con- 
dition that  the  cook  must  be  careful  that  the  water 
which  surrounds  the  bottle  does  not  boil,  as  great  heat 
hardens  albumen. 


COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK.  577 

BEEF    ESSENCE. 

Have  the  meat  chopped  very  fine,  place  it  in  a  fruit-jar, 
and  screw  on  the  top  of  the  jar,  but  not  tightly,  or  the  jar 
will  burst.  Set  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of  cold  water, 
heat  the  water  slowly,  and  keep  it  near  the  boiling  point 
for  four  hours.  Pour  off  the  juice  from  the  meat,  and 
press  the  latter  to  extract  every  drop  of  the  essence, 
using  for  the  purpose  a  lemon-squeezer,  or  a  meat- 
squeezer  that  is  sold  for  this  particular  work.  Season 
slightly  with  salt  when  serving.  This  makes  an  invalu- 
able aliment  for  persons  who  are  or  have  been  very  ill, 
and  for  weak  infants  when  they  need  much  nourishment 
in  small  compass.  It  can  be  administered  like  medicine 
by  the  tea-spoonful  at  regular  intervals. 

BEEF    JUICE. 

Choose  a  thick  cut  of  fresh,  juicy  and  very  lean  steak. 
Broil  it  over  the  coals  only  long  enough  to  heat  it 
throughout ;  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  place  these  in  a 
lemon  squeezer  or  a  meat  press  and  press  out  the  juice 
into  a  warm  dish.  Salt  slightly  in  serving. 

MUTTON  JUICE. 

Prepare  this  the  same  as  beef  juice,  using  for  the  pur- 
pose a  thick  cut  from  the  leg,  and  cutting  off  all  the  fat. 

CHICKEN    BROTH. 

Cut  up  a  young  fowl,  and  remove  all  of  the  skin   and 

fat.     Wash  the  chicken,  cut  it  into  small   pieces,  crack 

the  bones  well,  and  place  it  in  a  kettle  with  two  quarts  of 

cold  water.     Set  the  kettle  on  the  fire   in  a  slow  heat, 

37 


578  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

and  gradually  bring  the  water  to  the  boiling  point. 
Skim  carefully,  and  set  it  back  where  it  will  gently  sim- 
mer for  three  hours,  keeping  the  kettle  tightly  covered. 
Season  with  salt,  strain  off  the  broth,  and  serve.  If  sago, 
tapioca  or  rice  is  not  objectionable  to  the  patient,  it  may 
be  added  with  advantage.  Soak  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
the  grain  for  an  hour  in  cold  water,  drain,  add  it  to  the 
strained  broth,  and  simmer  slowly  for  twenty  minutes. 
If  the  kettle  is  kept  well  covered  and  the  cooking  is  as 
slow  as  it  should  be,  the  liquid  will  not  boil  away  appre- 
ciably. Should  the  broth  be  needed  very  quickly,  the 
rice  may  be  boiled  by  itself  in  just  enough  water  to 
keep  it  'from  browning,  and  both  water  and  rice  may 
be  added  to  the  broth,  care  being  taken  that  there 
is  not  enough  water  with  the  rice  to  weaken  the 
broth. 

MUTTON    BROTH. 

Take  a  pound  of  the  scraggy  part  of  the  neck  of  mut- 
ton, cut  off  all  the  fat,  and  cut  the  lean  into  small  cubes. 
Add  to  the  meat  four  table-spoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  and 
three  pints  of  cold  water.  Heat  slowly  to  the  boiling 
point,  skim  carefully,  and  set  the  broth  back  where  it  will 
simmer.  Place  the  bones  in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and 
boil  them  gently  for  half  an  hour  ;  then  strain  the  liquor 
into  the  broth,  and  cook  the  latter  two  hours  longer. 
Season  well  with  salt.  The  barley  may  be  omitted  if  not 
cared  for,  but  it  adds  much  to  the  nutritiousness  of  the 
broth. 

BEEF    BROTH. 

This  is  made  the  same  as  mutton  broth. 


COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK.  579 

CLAM    BROTH. 

For  this  purpose  the  clams  should  be  in  the  shells. 
Scrub  a  dozen  clams  with  a  brush  until  they  are  perfectly 
clean,  place  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  add  half  a  pint  of 
boiling  water.  Place  the  pan  on  the  fire  in  a  moderate 
heat,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  and  strain  the  liquor  through  a 
fine  sieve.  Should  the  broth  be  too  fresh  (which  it  sel- 
dom is),  add  salt.  If  it  is  too  salt,  dilute  it  with  boiling 
water. 

GRUELS. 

Sick  persons  almost  invariably  have  a  natural  antip- 
athy against  all  "  sick  dishes,"  and  this  repugnance  is 
perhaps,  most  decided  against  gruels  of  all  kinds.  When 
gruels  are  served  to  an  invalid,  they  should  be  carefully 
selected  with  the  nature  of  the  complaint  in  view.  Thus, 
in  excessive  disorder  of  the  bowels,  oatmeal  gruel  should 
never  be  given,  but  instead  a  flour  gruel. 

OATMEAL   GRUEL,    NO.    I. 

When  much  oatmeal  gruel  is  to  be  required,  it  will 
prove  an  economy  of  time  to  cook  the  oatmeal  into  mush, 
as  previously  described  in  this  book,  making  sure  that  it 
is  very  thoroughly  done.  Place  it  in  a  bowl,  and  cover 
tightly.  When  gruel  is  needed,  place  some  of  the  mush 
in  a  frying-pan,  add  milk  sufficient  to  thin  it  to  the  de- 
sired consistency,  and  boil  slowly  for  five  minutes,  stirring 
all  the  time.  Add  salt,  and  serve. 

OATMEAL   GRUEL,    NO.    2. 

One  quart  of  boiling  water.  . 

One  table-spoonful  of  raw  oatmeal. 

One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 


580  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

Place  the  water  in  a  frying-pan,  add  the  oatmeal,  and 
cook  for  two  hours  in  a  slow  heat.  Season  with  the  salt, 
and  strain  or  not,  as  the  physician  may  direct.  To 
serve,  fill  a  cup  two-thirds  full  with  the  hot  gruel  and  fill 
the  balance  with  cream  or  rnilk,  stirring  both  well  to- 
gether before  taking  to  the  patient. 

INDIAN    MEAL    GRUEL. 

One  quart  of  boiling  water. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Two  table-spoonfuls  of  meal. 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 

Place  the  meal  and  flour  in  the  cold  water,  rub  them 
smooth,  and  stir  the  paste  into  the  boiling  water.  Stir 
well,  and  when  the  gruel  boils,  set  it  back  where  it  will 
simmer  gently  for  two  hours.  Add  the  salt,  cook  for  half 
an  hour  longer,  and  serve  with  cream  or  milk,  the  .same  as 
in  the  preceding  recipe. 

FLOUR   GRUEL. 

This  is  particularly  useful  in  the  summer  troubles  of 
little  children.  Place  a  pint  of  flour  in  a  cloth,  tie  it 
tightly,  put  it  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it  boil 
four  or  five  hours.  When  the  cloth  is  untied,  the  gluten 
of  the  flour  will  be  found  in  a  mass  on  the  outside  of  the 
ball.  Remove  this,  and  the  inside  will  be  found  a  dry 
powder,  which  is  very  astringent.  Grate  from  the  ball, 
wet  the  powder  in  cold  milk,  and  stir  it  into  a  pint  of 
boiling  milk,  using  as  much  of  the  powder  as  will  thicken 
the  milk  to  a  palatable  porridge.  Add  salt,  and  serve 
hot. 


COOKERY  FOR   THE  SICK.  581 

FLOUR    GRUEL,  NO    2. 

One  pint  of  boiling  milk. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt 
One  table-spoonful  of  flour. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  milk. 

Stir  the  cold  milk  and  the  flour  together,  and  when  they 
are  well  mixed,  add  them  to  the  boiling  milk.  Cook  in  a 
double  boiler  for  twenty  minutes,  season  with  the  salt, 
strain,  and  serve  hot. 

This  gruel  may  be  made  more  nutritious  by  adding 
half  a  cupful  of  raisins  to  the  milk  when  it  is  put  on  to 
boil.  These  also  are  strained  off. 

GRAHAM   GRUEL. 

One  pint  of  boiling  water. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 
Four  table-spoonfuls  of  cold  water. 
One  {able-spoonful  of  graham  meal. 

Make  the  same  as  the  preceding,  omitting  the  raisins, 
and  boiling  for  thirty  minutes  instead  of  twenty.  Serve 
with  cream  or  milk,  the  same  as  the  flour  gruel. 

MILK     TOAST. 

Cut  the  bread  in  thin  slices,  pare  off  the  crust,  and  toast 
carefully  until  of  a  golden-brown  hue.  Butter  it  lightly 
while  hot.  Have  ready  a  tea-cupful  of  milk  that  has 
been  slightly  thickened  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  and 
salted  to  taste  ;  pour  this  hot  over  the  toast,  and  serve  at 
once. 

CREAM    TOAST. 

This  is  richer  than  milk  toast,  but  is  often   most  grate- 


582  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK, 

fully  received  by  the  patient  already  tired  of  other  foods. 
Toast  the  bread,  and  butter  it  the  same  as  directed  in  the 
preceding  recipe.  Sprinkle  the  toast  with  a  very  little 
salt,  pour  over  it  three  or  four  tea-spoonfuls  of  sweet 
cream  to  every  slice,  and  serve  at  once.  Do  not  heat 
the  cream.  The  toast,  if  very  hot,  will  warm  it  suffi- 
ciently. 

PANADA. 

Sprinkle  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt  between  two  large  Bos- 
ton, soda  or  graham  crackers  or  hard  pilot  biscuit. 
Place  the  crackers  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  on  just  enough 
boiling  water  to  soak  them  well.  Set  the  bowl  in  a  vessel 
of  boiling  water,  and  let  it  remain  twenty  or  thirty  min- 
utes, until  the  crackers  are  quite  clear,  but  not  at  all 
broken  ;  then  lift  them  out  carefully  without  breaking, 
and  lay  them  on  a  hot  saucer.  Serve  very  hot  with  sugar 
and  cream. 

WHEY. 

This  is  made  with  sweet  milk  and  an  acid.  Whey  con- 
tains the  sugar,  salt  and  other  saline  principles  necessary 
for  digestion  and  the  repair  of  the  mineral  part  of  the 
body. 

WINE    WHEY. 

One  cupful  of  new  milk. 
One-half  cupful  of  sherry  wine. 
Sugar  to  sweeten. 

Place  the  milk 'in  a  small  saucepan  set  in  another  con- 
taining boiling  water.  When  the  milk  boils,  add  the 
wine,  stir  well,  and  leave  in  a  mild  heat  until  the  curd 


COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK.  583 

and  whey  separate  ;  then  strain,  sweeten  the  whey,  and 
serve. 

Many  other  acids  are  used  in  making  whey,  and  the 
process  is  the  same  in  each  instance  as  that  for  making 
wine  whey.  The  proportions  are  given  below. 

i  LEMON    WHEY. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

Two  table-spoonfuls  ot  lemon-juice. 

CREAM    OF    TARTAR    WHEY. 

One  cupful  of  milk. 

One  level  tea-spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar. 

ORANGE    WHEY. 

Two  cupfuls  of  milk. 
One  orange  (juice) 

DRINKS  FOR  THE  SICK. 

CURRANT     WATER. 

Stir  a  table-spoonful  of  currant  jelly  into  a  glassful 
of  water.  Sweeten  slightly,  if  desired.  When  currant 
juice  is  obtainable,  use  three  table-spoonfuls  of  the  juice 
and  enough  water  to  dilute  to  the  desired  acidity.  Acid 
drinks  are  most  refreshing  in  fever. 

APPLE    WATER.    - 

Bake  two  large,  tart  apples  until  tender,  sprinkle  a 
table-spoonful  of  sugar  over  them,  return  them  to  the 
oven,  and  cook  until  the  sugar  is  slightly  brown.  Place 
the  apples  in  a  bowl,  mash  them  with  a  spoon,  pour  a. 
pint  of  boiling  water  on  them,  cover,  and  let  them  stand 
for  an  hour  ;  then  strain  and  cool. 


584  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-ROOK. 


RICE   WATER. 

Wash  four  table-spoonfuls  of  rice,  add  to  it  three  cup- 
fuls  of  cold  water,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour.  Season  with  salt,  strain  and  serve. 

BARLEY  WATER. 

Wash  five  table-spoonfuls  of  pearl  barley,  add  to  it 
four  cupfuls  of  cold  water,  place  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil 
slowly  for  two  hours.  Strain,  and  when  cold,  season 
with  a  little  salt,  or,  if  not  hurtful,  a  little  lemon  and 
sugar. 

TOAST   WATER. 

Toast  two  or  three  slices  of  stale  bread  until  brown  all 
through,  but  not  at  all  scorched.  Break  the  toast  in 
small  pieces,  and  put  a  cupful  of  it  into  a  pitcher,  using 
none  of  the  toast  that  is  not  thoroughly  brown.  Pour  on 
the  toast  three  cupfuls  of  boiling  water,  let  this  stand  for 
ten  minutes,  strain,  and  serve  when  cold. 

FLAXSEED   LEMONADE. 

This  is  very  soothing  to  patients  suffering  from  colds. 

One  quart  of  boiling  water. 

Four  table-spoonfuls  of  whole  fiaxseed. 

Two  lemons. 

Sugar. 

Boil  the  flaxseed  in  the  water  for  three  hours,  letting  it 
steep  slowly.  Strain,  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  the  juice 
of  the  lemons.  If  too  thick,  add  a  little  water. 

H<>]     I  KMONADK. 

This  should  only  be  drunk  just  before   retiring ;  it  is 


/-('A'   /'///-:  .svcA  585 

excellent  im  colds,  hut  can'  should  be  taken  to  avoid  all 
exposure  on  the  following  day. 

(  'IK     1(  MHMi 

Thicr  (jii.irlris  cupful  of  boiling  water. 

SllJ'.ai     1.1    I.  ISIC. 

Squeeze  the    lemon  juice    into   the    water,  and  add    the 
sugai.     Serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

EGG   NOG. 

One  egg. 

Milk. 

(  )iu    l.iNr-.spoonlul  nl  ln.in.lv,  HUM  in   wine. 
l  sii',;il. 


Ui-.  it  the  white  of  the  eggs  stiff,  stir  the  sugar  into  it, 
add  thi'  yolk  of  the  egg,  heal  well,  and  stir  in  the  lii|iuu. 
Place  the  mixiiiic  in  a  tumbler,  and  gradually  add  enough 
milk  to  fill  the  glass,  sliiriug  all  the  time.  Add  a  slight 
grating  <>l  nutmeg,  and  serve. 

U'ines  MI  li<piois  should  never  be  given  to  a  patient 
without  the  advice  of  the  physician,  as  in  fevers  they  aie 
positively  haimlul.  Cases  of  sudden  prostration  are, 
however,  an  exception,  a  spoonful  of  liquor  often  quickly 
relieving  the  distress. 

MILK     IMINCII. 

Sweeten  three  (piailer,  ol  .1  gLrslul  <>l  milk  to  taste, 
and  add  one  or  two  tahl-  p'M.nfuls  of  the  b«9|  brandy, 
di.iie  a  litile  nutmeg  over  the  top,  turn  the  whole  into  a 

pint   howl,  and   heal   lw<>  minutes  \\ilh  a   |)M\.  .ilei 

then  pour  the  punch  back  int<»  the  glass,  and  serve. 


586  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

RICE    JELLY. 

Mix  enough  water  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of  rice 
flour  to  make  a  thin  paste,  and  then  -add  a  coffee-cup- 
ful of  boiling  water.  Sweeten  to  taste,  and  boil  until  the 
rice  is  transparent.  If  intended  for  a  person  suffering 
from  intestinal  trouble,  boil  with  it  a  stick  of  cinnamon  ; 
if  for  a  fever  patient,  add,  when  done,  several  drops  of 
lemon-juice.  Wet  a  mould  with  cold  water,  pour  in  the 
jelly,  and  when  cold  serve  with  milk  and  sugar. 

TO    PREPARE   AN    UNCOOKED    EGG. 

Beat  the  yolk  of  the  egg  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  sugar 
together,  and  add  to  this  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  sherry, 
brandy  or  port,  stirring  well.  Beat  the  white  of  the  egg 
to  a  very  stiff  froth,  stir  it  in,  beating  well,  and  serve  at 
once.  This  will  quite  fill  the  glass.  If  wine  is  not 
desired,  nutmeg  may  be  used  for  flavoring. 

TO    PREPARE  RAW  BEEF. 

Scrape  very  fine  two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  fresh, 
juicy  raw  beef,  season  it  slightly  with  pepper  and  salt, 
spread  it  between  two  thin  slices  of  lightly  buttered 
bread,  and  cut  for  serving  into  little  diamond  shapes,  two 
and  a-half  inches  long  and  an  inch  wide. 

CHIPS    FOR    DYSPEPTICS. 

One  cupful  of  Arlington  wheat  meal. 
One  cupful  of  milk. 
One  cupful  of  water. 
One-half  tea-spoonful  of  salt. 

Beat  all  together  until  smooth,  pour  into  two  well 
buttered  dripping-pans,  and  bake  until  thoroughly  brown. 


COOKEKY  FOR  THE  SICK. 


587 


BREAKFAST. 

Oatmeal  Mush, 
Egg  on  Toast. 


MENUS  FOR  INVALIDS. 
NO.   I. 

DINNER. 

Beefsteak. 

Baked  Potatoes  (mashed}. 
Toasted  Graham  Cracker. 

Dessert. 
Gelatine  Pudding. 


SUPPER. 

Cream  7'oast. 
Cup  of  Tea. 
Baked  Apple. 


BREAKFAST. 

Hominy  Grits. 
Mutton  Chop. 
Bread  (not fresh}. 
Cup  of  Hot  Milk. 


BREAKFAST. 


NO.  2. 

DINNER. 

Chicken  Broth,  witJi  Rice. 

Dessert. 
Wine  Jelly,  with  Cracker. 


NO.  3. 


DINNER. 


SUPPER. 

Milk  Toast. 
Quince  Jelly. 


SUPPER. 


Cnifkcil  Wheat  Mush.     Beef  Broth,  with  Barley.      Corn  Meal  Mush, 
Oysters  on  Toast.  Bread  (not  fresh}.  with  Cream  and  Sugar. 

Dessert. 
Soft  Custard. 


MENUS. 

"  Serenely  full,  the  epicure  would  say, 

1  Fate  cannot  harm  me,  I  have  dined  to-day.' " 

SYDNEY  SMITH. 

The  following  menus  have  been  prepared  for  use  in 
families  where  an  expensive  menu  would  not  be  possible. 
Where  the  cost  need  not  be  considered,  a  caterer  is 
generally  engaged,  or  the  number  of  servants  is  pro- 
portionate to  the  style  of  service. 

Any  of  these  menus  may  readily  be  served  in  homes 
where  but  one  maid  is  employed,  if  proper  forethought 
be  given  as  to  time,  etc.  All  the  necessary  directions  for 
preparing  the  dishes  mentioned  in  these  menus  will  be 
found  through  this  work. 

MENU    FOR    THANKSGIVING   DINNER. 

Oysters  on  the  Half-shell. 

Noodle  Soup. 

Roast  Turkey.  Giblet  Gravy. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  Mashed  Turnips. 

Chicken  Pie. 
Plain  Celery.  Cranberry  Sauce. 

Creamed  Onions. 
Lettuce  Salad. 

Suet  Pudding,  with  Snow  Sauce. 

Apple  Pie.  Pumpkin  Pic.  Mince  Pit'. 

Fruit. 

Coffee. 

588 


MENUS.  589 

MENU    FOR    CHRISTMAS    DINNER. 

Oyster  Soup. 
Baked  Fish.  Tomato  Sauce. 

Potato  Balls. 

Roast  Goose,  with  Apple  Sauce. 
Cauliflower.  Mashed  Potato. 

Venison  Steak. 
Ciirrant  Jelly. 
Baked  Sweet  Potatoes.  Stewed  Celery. 

Lettuce  Salad. 

Plum  pudding,  with  Brandy  Sauce. 
Ice  Cream.  Cake. 

Fruit. 
Coffee. 

MENUS  FOR  A  SPRING  DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit. 

Wheat-Germ  Mush. 

Broiled  Lamb  Chops. 

Creamed  Potatoes.  Hominy  Waffles.  Water  Cresses. 

Graham  Gems.  Coffee.  Toast. 

LUNCHEON. 

Tomato  Soup. 

Scalloped  Oysters.  Rolls. 

Canned  Peaches.  Cake. 

Tea. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Beef,  with  Yorkshire  Pudding. 
Stewed  Macaroni.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Chocolate  Corn-Starch. 
Coffee. 


59° 


THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 


SUPPER. 

Oysters  on  Toast. 
Tea  Biscuit.  Stewed  Prunes. 

Cookies. 
Chocolate.  Tea. 

MENUS  FOR  A  SUMMER  DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 
Berries. 


Broiled  Steak. 


Baked  Potatoes. 


Boiled  Eggs. 


Rolls. 
Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Strawberry  Shortcake. 
Tea. 


Toast. 


Baked  Veal. 
Spinach. 


Milk  Toast. 
Berries. 


DINNER. 

Clam  Soup. 

Potatoes,  roasted  with  the  veal. 

Salsify. 
Tomato  Salad. 
Cantaloupes. 

SUPPER. 


Biscuit. 
Cake. 


Tea. 


MENUS  FOR  AN  AUTUMN  DAY. 

BREAKFAST. 


Beef  on  Toast. 


Grapes. 
Oatmeal  Mush. 

Coffee. 


Corn  Bread. 


MENUS.  591 

LUNCHEON. 

Corned-beef  Hash .  Bread. 

Raw  Tomatoes  (sliced). 
Peaches.  Grapes. 

Coffee. 
Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Celery  Soup. 

Stewed  Chicken.  Rice. 

Plain  Boiled  Potatoes.  Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Bread  Pudding,  with  Vanilla  Sauce. 
Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Welsh  Rarebit.  Bread. 

Baked  Quinces.  Sponge  Cake. 

Tea. 

MENUS  FOR  A  WINTER  DAY. 
BREAKFAST. 

Corn-meal  Mush. 

Broiled  Bacon.  Creamed  Potatoes. 

Buckwheat  Cakes,  with  Maple  Syrup. 

Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Consomme. 

Fried  Corn-meal  Mush.  Baked  Sweet  Potatoes. 

Apple  Sauce.  Rolls. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Roast  Turkey,  with  Cranberry  Sauce. 
Mashed  Potatoes.  Cauliflower. 

Celery  Salad. 
Bird's-Nest  Pudding. 


5Q2  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

SUPPER. 

Cold  Tongue. 

Brown  Bread,  Toasted.  Cold  Bread. 

Cake.  Preserves. 

Tea. 
Cocoa. 

MENUS  FOR  A  LENTEN  DAY. 

BREAK  ¥  AST. 

Oatmeal  Mush,  with  Cream. 

Oysters  on  Toast.  »  Muffins. 

Coffee. 

LUNCHEON. 

Vermicelli    Eggs.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Rolls. 

Canned  Berries.  Cake. 

Chocolate. 

DINNER. 

Clam  Soup. 

Baked  Fish,  with  Tomato  Sauce. 
Plain  Celery.  Mashed  Turnips. 

Boiled  Potatoes. 

Gelatine  Pudding,  with  Custard  Sauce. 
Coffee. 

SUPPER. 

Milk  Toast. 

Potato  Salad.  Bread. 

Cake.  Cocoa. 

MENU    FOR   A    SMALL    COMPANY    LUNCHEON. 

Raw  Oysters. 

Chicken  Salad. 

Sandwiches.  Rolls. 


MENUS.  593 

Preserves. 

Cakes.  Ice-Cream. 

Tea.  Chocolate. 

MENU    FOR   A   SMALL   COMPANY   DINNER. 

Oysters  on  the  Half-Shell. 

Consomme. 
Fried  Smelts,  with  Tartare  Sauce. 

Boiled  Potato  Balls. 
Roast  Chicken,  with  Currant  Jelly. 

Sweetbread  Croquettes. 
Mashed  Potatoes.  Boiled  Celery. 

Welsh  Rarebit. 
Water-cress  Salad. 

Custard  Souffle,  with  Cream  Sauce. 

Fruit. 
Coffee. 

TWO   MENUS    FOR    EVENING   CARD   PARTIES. 
NO.     I. 

Bouillon. 
Chicken  Salad.  Rolls. 

Champagne. 
Olives.  Fancy  Cakes. 

NO.    2. 

Rolled  Chicken  Sandwiches. 

Salad. 

Ham  (sliced}.  Wafer  Crackers. 

Cream.  Cakes. 

Coffee. 

MENU    FOR   AFTERNOON    TEAS. 

Sandwiches. 
Tea.  Fancy  Cakes. 

Claret  Punch. 
38 


594  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

MENU  FOR  CHILDREN'S  BIRTHDAY  PARTY. 

Cold  Chicken  (sliced).  Bread. 

Soft  Custard. 
Ice-Cream.  fancy  Cakes. 

Birthday-Cake  (with  Name  and  Date}. 
Nuts.  Fruit.  Candy. 

BILL-OF-FARE   TABLE. 

Bills  of  fare  can  be  easily  made  for  the  most  elaborate 
or  the  plainest  dinner  that  is  to  be  served  in  courses,  by 
selecting  more  or  less  of  the  dishes  mentioned  in  the  fol- 
lowing table,  and  serving  them  in  the  order  indicated. 

FIRST  COURSE. — Raw  oysters,  little  clams,  Roman  punch. 

SECOND    COURSE. — Soup. 

THIRD  COURSE. — Hors-d ' osnvres  (Relishes).  Cold  :  sar- 
dines, pickled  oysters,  cucumbers,  radishes,  pre- 
served herrings,  anchovies,  cold  slaw.  These  dishes 
are  considered  as  appetizers  and  are  very  properly 
served  at  this  course.  It  is  a  French  custom. 

FOURTH  COURSE. — Fish.     Any  kind  of  fish  or  shell-fish. 

FIFTH  COURSE. — Hors-d'oeuvres.  Hot :  these  are  the 
light  entrees,  such  as  croquettes,  all  kinds  of  hot  pat- 
ties (not  sweet),  sweetbreads,  brains,  etc. 

SIXTH  COURSE. — Releits.  The  substantial  dishes,  such  as 
roast  joints  of  beef,  veal,  lamb,  mutton  or  venison, 
roast  or  boiled  turkeys  or  chickens,  fillet  of  beef, 
braised  meats,  etc. 

SEVENTH  COURSE. — Roman  punch. 

EIGHTH  COURSE. — Entries.  Cutlets,  all  kinds  of  patties 
(not  sweet),  sweetbreads,  fricassees,  scollops,  cas- 
seroles, poultry  or  game  en  coquille,  croquettes,  sal- 


BILL-OF-FARE  TABLE.  595 

mis,  blanquettes,  any  of  the  meats  or  game  made  into 

side  dishes. 
NINTH  COURSE. — Entrements.     Dressed  vegetables,  served 

alone,    such    as   cauliflowers,  asparagus,   artichokes, 

corn,     spinach,     boiled     celery,    string     beans,    or 

French  peas  on   toast,   macaroni,  dressed  eggs,  frit- 
ters. 

TENTH  COURSE. — Game  of  any  kind. 
ELEVENTH  COURSE. — Salad  of   any   kind.     A  plain  salad 

is  often  served  with  the  game. 
TWELFTH  COURSE. — Cheese,       macaroni      dressed     with 

cheese,  cheese   omelet,   cheese-cakes.     Cheese   and 

salad  are  often  served  together. 
THIRTEENTH  COURSE. — Entremets  (sweet).     Any  kind   of 

puddings,    jellies,     sweet    fritters,     sweet     pastries, 

creams,  charlottes,  etc. 
FOURTEENTH  COURSE. — Glaces.     Anything  iced,   such    as 

ice  creams,  water  ices,  frozen  puddings,  etc. 
FIFTEENTH  COURSE. — Dessert.     Fruit,    nuts    and    raisins, 

candied  fruits,  bonbons,  cake,  etc. 
SIXTEENTH  COURSE. — Coffee,  and  little  cakes  or  biscuits 

(crackers). 


MEASUREMENTS. 

"  Make  it  plain  upon  the  tables, 
That  he  may  run  that  readeth  it." 

SCRIPTURE. 

4  tea-spoonfuls  of  liquid,       .  .  .  .     i  table-spoonful. 

4  table-spoonfuls  of  liquid,  .       •£  gill,  J  cupful  or  I  wine-glassful, 

i  table-spoonful  of  liquid,      .  .  .  .  •       i  ounce. 

1  pint  of  liquid,  .....  i  pound. 

2  gills  of  liquid,          .  .  .  .  i  cupful,  or  |  pint, 
i  kitchen  cupful,              .....  |  pint. 
i  quart  of  sifted  pastry  flour.             .            .             .                   i  pound. 

1  quart  of  sifted  "  new-process  "  flour,  less  i  gill,         .  i  pound. 
4  cupfuls  of  flour,              .             .             .             .    i  quart,  or  i  pound. 

2  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,    ....         ounce. 

1  rounded  table-spoonful  of  granulated  sugar,  .             .  ounce. 

2  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  ground  spice,               .  .         ounce. 
i  heaping  table-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar,    .             .  ounce. 

3  cupfuls  of  corn-meal,            .....        pound. 
i£  pint  of  corn-meal,        .....  pound. 
I  cupful  of  butter,       .                         .            .             .  .     •£  pound. 
I  pint  of  butter,    .             .  i  pound. 
i  table-spoonful  of  butter,      .             .             .             .  .      i  ounce. 
Butter  the  size  of  an  egg,             ....  2  ounces. 
Butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,    .             .             .             .  i  ounce. 

1  solid  pint  of  chopped  meat,  i  pound. 
10  eggs,           .            .             .  .             .             .            .      i  pound. 

2  cupfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  i  pound. 
I  pint  of  granulated  sugar,    .  .             .             .                   i  pound. 

596 


MEASUREMENTS.  597 

I  pint  of  brown  sugar,     .  .  .  .  .17  ounces. 

2^  cupfuls  of  powdered  sugar,          .  .  .  i  pound, 

i  cupful  of  rice,   ......  £  pound. 

i  cupful  of  stemmed  raisins,  .  .  .  .6  ounces. 

i  cupful  of  cleaned  and  dried  currants,  .  .  6  ounces. 

1  cupful  of  grated  bread-crumbs,     .  .  .  .2  ounces. 
8  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  i  cupful. 
8  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar,             .             .  i  cupful. 
8  rounded  table-spoonfuls  of  butter,                                           i  cupful. 

2  gills,  .......       i  cupful. 

i  common  tumblerful,     .....  I  cupful. 

3  table-spoonfuls  of  grated  chocolate,        .  .  i  ounce, 
i  pint,       .             .             .             .             .             .             .16  ounces. 

i  pint,  ....  ...          4  gills. 

i  ounce,    ......        8  drachms  (J  gill). 

1  table-spoonful,         .             .             .            >             .  \  ounce. 
1 6  drachms,           ......  i  ounce. 

1 6  ounces,       .  .  .  .  .  .  i  pound. 

4  gills,       ....  .1  pint. 

2  pints,  .  •  .  .  .  .  .1  quart. 
4  quarts,    .......  I  gallon. 


SMALL   ECONOMIES. 

"  Waste  not — want  not." 

"  Economy  is  a  poor  man's  revenue, 
Extravagance — a  rich  man's  ruin." 

THERE  is  an  old  saying  (which  if  rather  roughly  put,  is 
none  the  less  true),  that  "  a  woman  can  throw  out  with  a 
spoon  faster  than  a  man  can  throw  in  with  a  shovel." 
While  all  men  do  not  "  throw  in  with  a  shovel,"  in  reality, 
there  are  many  women  who  seem  almost  to  "  throw  out " 
by  the  shovelful  rather  than  by  the  spoonful  of  this  wise 
old  proverb.  A  few  "  leaks  in  the  kitchen  "  are  here 
mentioned  to  remind  thoughtless  housekeepers  of  the 
many  spoonfuls  they  are  continually  throwing  out. 

In  cooking  meat  the  water  is  often  poured  out  without 
first  removing  the  fat,  and  quite  as  frequently  the  oil 
from  the  baking-pan  is  cast  away  as  of  no  value. 

Scraps  of  meat  are  thrown  out. 

Cold  potatoes  are  allowed  to  sour. 

Dried  fruits  are  not  looked  after  and  become  wormy. 

Vinegar  and  sauce  are  left  standing  in  tin  vessels. 

Apples  are  allowed  to  decay  for  want  of  looking  over. 

The  tea-canister  and  coffee-box  are  left  open  so  that 
the  tea  and  coffee  lose  their  strength  and  flavor. 

Bones  of  meat  and  the  carcasses  of  roast  fowls  are 
598 


SMALL  ECONOMIES.  599 

thrown  away,  when  they  could  be  used  in  making  good 
soups. 

Sugar,  tea,  coffee,  rice  and  flour  are  carelessly  spilled 
in  handling. 

Soap  is  left  in  the  water  to-  waste. 

Dish-towels  are  used  for  dish-cloths,  napkins  for  dish- 
towels,  and  towels  for  holders. 

Brooms  and  mops  suffer  damage  from  not  being  hung 
up. 

More  coal  is  burned  than  is  necessary  through  the 
cook  not  closing  the  dampers  when  the  fire  is  not  in  use. 

Lights  are  left  burning  when  not  needed. 

Tin  dishes  are  not  properly  cleaned  and  dried. 

Good  brooms  are  used  to  scrub  the  floors  or  sweep  the 
cellar,  when  there  are  plenty  of  old  ones  that  will 
answer  these  purposes  just  as  well. 

Silver  spoons  are  used  in  scraping  kettles. 

Mustard  is  left  to  spoil  in  the  cruse. 

Vinegar  is  allowed  to  stand  in  an  open  vessel  until  its 
strength  is  lost  and  it  becomes  dusty,  or  is  filled  with 
gnats. 

Pickles  become  spoiled  through  the  leaking  out  or 
evaporation  of  the  vinegar. 

Pork  spoils  for  want  of  salt,  and  beef  because  the 
brine  needs  scalding. 

Cheese  is  permitted  to  mould,  or  when  dry  is  thrown 
away. 

Woodenware  is  put  away  unscalded  and  left  to  warp 
and  crack. 

The  bread-pan  is  set  away  with  a  quantity  of  the 
dough  still  in  it. 

Remnants  of  pie-crust  are  allowed  to  harden  and  then 


600  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

thrown  out,  instead  of  being  utilized  for  making  a  few 
tarts  for  supper. 

Cold  pudding  is  thrown  away  because  there  is  not 
enough  to  "  go  round."  Some  fruit  should  be  served 
also,  and  the  pudding  steamed,  thus  producing  a  good 
dessert. 

Cooked  rice  is  wasted,  when  a  pudding  could  be  made 
of  it,  or  it  could  be  used  in  soup. 

Vegetables  are  also  thrown  away  that  might  be  used  to 
advantage  in  soup. 

The  scrub-brush  is  left  to  rot  in  a  pail  of  water. 

Pails  are  scorched  on  the  stove,  and  tubs  and  barrels 
are  left  in  the  sun  to  dry  and  fall  apart. 

Potatoes  in  the  cellar  commence  to  grow,  and  the 
sprouts  are  not  removed  until  the  potatoes  are  spoiled. 

Dried  beef  becomes  so  hard  it  cannot  be  cut. 

Servants  are  allowed  to  leave  a  light  burning  in  their 
rooms  or  in  the  kitchen,  when  they  are  to  be  out  all 
the  evening. 

Servants  neglect  the  wash  on  a  windy  day,  and  the 
clothes  are  whipped  to  pieces.  Fine  cambrics  are  washed 
on  the  board  instead  of  between  the  hands,  and  laces  are 
torn  in  ironing. 

Fruit-stains  in  the  table-cloths  are  not  strained  out  as 
soon  as  possible,  but  are  washed  into  the  cloths. 

Clothes-pins  that  have  fallen  to  the  ground  are  not 
picked  up  promptly,  and  so  are  soon  ruined. 

Scraps  of  soap  are  wasted  instead  of  being  utilized  in 
a  soap-shaker  that  costs  but  a  trifle. 

Good  sheets  are  taken  for  ironing  cloths,  when  coarse, 
unbleached  cotton  can  be  had  for  a  few  cents  a  yard. 
Good  blankets  or  quilts  also  are  used  for  padding  the 


SMALL  ECONOMIES.  6ot 

ironing  board,  when  an  ironing-blanket  may  be  purchased 
at  very  small  cost. 

The  egg-beater  is  left  soaking  in  water,  instead  of 
being  at  once  cleansed  and  laid  away. 

Kitchen  knives  and  forks  are  also  left  in  water  until 
the  handles  are  loosened  if  they  do  not  come  entirely  off. 

HOW   TO   USE    WHAT    IS   SAVED. 

Save  all  broken  pieces  and  crusts  of  bread  not  fit  for 
toast ;  they  may  be  used  in  place  of  cracker-crumbs  for 
dipping  oysters,  croquettes,  etc.  (See  "  How  to  Dry 
Bread-Crumbs.")  Stale  bread  may  also  be  used  in  bread 
griddle-cakes,  queen  of  puddings,  bread  muffins  and 
many  desserts. 

Muffins  left  from  breakfast  may  be  split  in  half  and 
toasted  for  luncheon  ;  or  they  may  be  dipped  quickly  in 
cold  water  and  set  in  a  hot  oven  for  fifteen  minutes,  when 
they  will  taste  as  if  newly  made. 

Pieces  of  buns  or  stale  cake  make  excellent  cabinet 
pudding  or  cake  custard  pudding.  Here  also  may  be 
used  the  bit  of  preserves  left  from  last  evening's  tea. 
There  is  nothing  better  for  panada  than  stale  rusks, 
toasted. 

All  cold  mashed  potatoes  should  be  saved  for  cro- 
quettes or  potato  puff.  One  cupful  will  make  six  cro- 
quettes. 

Cold  boiled  potatoes  make  delicious  French  fried  or 
Lyonnaise  potatoes  and  potato  salad. 

All  small  pieces  of  plain  or  puff  paste  trimmed  from 
pies  or  patties  may  be  used  for  cheese  fingers,  or  with  the 
small  piece  of  beefsteak  left  from  breakfast,  may  be  made 
into  rissoles,  forming  a  dainty  but  inexpensive  entree  for 


602  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

luncheon.  The  unbaked  portion  of  puff  paste  taken 
from  the  center  of  patties,  when  dried  and  rolled,  makes 
a  richer  and  much  better  covering  for  scallops,  devils, 
etc.,  than  dried  bread-crumbs. 

The  green  part  of  celery  stalks  is  not  sightly  in  the 
dish  or  glass,  nor  is  it  fit  to  eat  ;  but  it  is  just  the  thing 
for  stewing  and  for  flavoring  soups.  The  roots,  when 
boiled,  make  an  excellent  salad. 

Save  every  bone,  whether  of  beef,  mutton,  veal,  ham, 
poultry  or  game,  and  also  all  juices  and  gravies,  for 
making  soup.  In  the  soup  kettle  place  the  long  end  of 
the  rib  roast,  which  would  only  become  tasteless  and 
dry  if  warmed  in  the  oven;  and  also  the  fat  ends  of 
French  mutton  chops.  This  kettle  may  be  made  an  inex- 
haustible storehouse,  not  only  for  making  ordinary  soup 
or  puree,  but  also  for  stock,  which  is  far  better  than 
water  for  making  sauces  and  gravies.  All  the  fat  from 
the  surface  of  the  soup,  every  piece  of  suet  from  chops 
and  steaks,  in  fact,  all  kinds  of  fat  should  be  saved,  tried 
out,  clarified  and  strained  into  the  dripping  pot.  If  this 
is  done,  there  will  always  be  an  abundance  of  fat  for  fry- 
ing, and  no  lard  need  ever  be  purchased  for  this  work. 
Doughnuts  and  fritters  are  much  better  fried  in  drippings 
than  in  lard,  as  then  so  much  of  the  fat  is  not  absorbed. 

The  coarse,  tough  and  unprepossessing  tops  of  sirloin 
steaks,  and  the  tough  ends  of  rumps,  which  cannot  pos- 
sibly be  eaten  when  broiled,  make  most  excellent  Ham- 
burg steaks. 

Soup  meat,  nicely  chopped  and  seasoned  and  freed 
from  all  tough  gristle  may  be  pressed  and  used  for 
luncheon.  It  needs  to  be  well  seasoned,  else  it  will 
prove  tasteless. 


SMALL  ECONOMIES.  603 

Cold  mutton  is  particularly  satisfactory  when  hashed 
and  served  on  toast,  or  when  stewed  with  tomatoes. 

Cold  roast  and  boiled  chicken  or  turkey  may  be  made 
into  croquettes  a  la  Bechamel,  and  if  nicely  served,  will 
never  suggest  warmed-over  meats. 

A  cupful  of  cold  boiled  rice  added  to  griddle-cakes, 
muffins  or  waffles  makes  them  lighter  and  more  easy  of 
digestion. 

The  water  in  which  fresh  tongue,  mutton  or  chicken  is 
boiled  may  be  used  for  soup,  or  may  be  added  to  the 
stock-kettle. 

Whites  of  eggs,  saved  one  or  two  at  a  time,  and  kept 
in  a  cool  place,  may  be  used  for  angels'-food,  white  cakes 
or  apple  snow. 

When  the  yolks  of  eggs  are  to  be  set  aside  for  any 
length  of  time,  beat  them  thin,  adding  a  little  cold  water. 
This  will  prevent  the  thick  scum  forming  on  the  top  that 
wastes  so  much  of  the  egg.  If  the  yolks  are  to  be  used 
for  salads,  however,  the  water  must  not  be  added. 

Cold  boiled,  baked  or  broiled  fish  may  be  used  in  cro- 
quettes or  salads,  a  la  creme,  etc. 

Hard  ends  of  cheese  may  be  grated  and  saved  for 
baking  macaroni.  From  a  few  of  these  dried  bits  a  large 
quantity  of  grated  cheese  is  obtained. 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING. 

"  Together  let  us  beat  his  ample  field, 
Try  what  the  open,  what  the  covert  yield  ; 
Content  if  hence  the  unlearned  their  wants  may  view, 
The  learned  reflect  on  what  before  they  knew." 

POPE. 

HOW   TO    BLANCH   ALMONDS. 

SHELL  the  nuts  and  pour  boiling  water  upon  them. 
Let  them  stand  in  the  water  until  the  skin  may  be  re- 
moved, then  throw  them  into  cold  water,  rub  off  the  skins 
between  the  hands,  and  dry  the  kernels  between  towels. 

HOW   TO   SALT   ALMONDS. 

Shell  and  blanch  the  almonds,  spread  them  out  on  a 
bright  tin  pie-plate,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
hickory  nut,  and  set  them  in  a  hot  oven  until  they  are  of 
a  golden-brown  hue.  Remove  them  from  the  oven,  stir 
well,  dredge  thickly  with  salt,  and  turn  them  out  to  cool. 

HOW   TO   SCRAPE   CHOCOLATE. 

If  but  one  square  of  chocolate  is  needed,  draw  a  line 
across  the  two  squares  at  the  end  of  the  cake,  dividing 
them  in  halves.  With  a  sharp  knife  shave  off  the  choco- 
late until  the  line  is  reached.  In  this  way  there  is  no 

604 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  605 

waste  of  time  or  material.  If  two  squares  are  needed, 
shave  off  to  the  dividing  line.  The  pound  packages  of 
Baker's  chocolate  contain  two  cakes,  each  of  which  con- 
sists of  eight  squares;  one  of  these  squares  is,  therefore,  an 
ounce. 

HOW   TO   CLEAN    ENGLISH   CURRANTS. 

Remove  all  the  pebbles,  bits  of  dirt  and  long  stems 
from  the  currants,  add  a  pint  of  flour  to  two  quarts  of 
the  fruit,  and  rub  the  latter  well  between  the  hands ;  this 
starts  the  stems  and  dirt  from  the  currants.  Place  the 
fruit  and  flour  in  a  coarse  colander,  and  shake  well  until 
the  flour  and  stems  have  passed  through  ;  then  place  the 
colander  and  currants  in  a  pan  of  water,  and  wash  the 
currants  thoroughly,  leaving  them  still  in  the  colander. 
Lift  the  colander  and  currants  together,  and  change  the 
water  until  it  becomes  clear.  Drain  the  fruit  between 
towels,  pick  it  over  carefully,  and  dry  it  in  a  sunny  place. 
Do  not  dry  currants  in  the  oven,  as  the  heat  hardens 
them.  When  perfectly  dry,  put  them  away  in  jars.  If 
currants  are  prepared  in  this  way  as  soon  as  purchased, 
they  will  always  be  ready  for  use  when  wanted. 

HOW    TO    STONE    RAISINS. 

Free  the  raisins  from  all  stems,  place  them  in  a  bowl, 
cover  with  boiling  water  and  let  them  stand  two  minutes. 
Pour  off  the  water  and  open  the  raisins,  when  the  seeds 
can  be  removed  quickly,  without  the  usual  stickiness. 

HOW   TO    BOIL   SUGAR. 

The  degrees  of  boiling  sugar  are  variously  classified  by 
different  cooks,  some  giving  six  degrees  and  others  as 


606  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

many  as  eight.  The  French  boil  sugar  for  nearly  all  of 
their  desserts.  For  all  practical  purposes,  however,  a 
cook  need  understand  but  three  degrees.  Place  a  cupful 
of  granulated  or  loaf  sugar  and  half  a  cupful  of  water  on 
the  fire  to  boil,  and  when  they  have  boiled  fifteen  minutes, 
dip  the  forefinger  and  thumb  in  cold  water  and  take  up  a 
little  of  the  syrup  between  them.  If,  upon  drawing  them 
apart,  the  syrup  forms  a  thread,  it  has  reached  the  second 
degree  and  is  at  the  best  stage  for  use  in  frozen  fruits, 
sherbets  and  preserves.  If,  after  more  boiling,  some  of 
the  syrup  being  taken  up  with  a  spoon  and  blown  hard, 
flies  off  in  tiny  bubbles,  it  is  at  the  fourth  degree,  called 
the  souffle,  about  twenty  minutes  of  boiling  being  required 
to  reach  this  point.  This  syrup  is  used  for  biscuit  glace  and 
various  kinds  of  creams,  and  it  gives  sherbets  and  fruits 
a  much  richer  flavor  than  when  used  at  the  second  degree. 
If  the  boiling  is  still  continued,  and  a  little  syrup  on 
being  taken  up  on  the  point  of  a  stick  or  skewer  and 
dipped  in  cold  water  breaks  off  brittlely,  the  sixth  degree 
has  been  reached.  At  this  stage  the  syrup  is  used  for 
icing  fruit  and  cake,  the  dishes  being  known  as  fruit 
glace  or  gateau  glace.  The  syrup  must  never  be  stirred,  as 
this  would  cause  it  to  grain.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
that  it  does  not  boil  after  coming  to  the  sixth  degree, 
because  it  burns  quickly  after  that  point  is  reached. 

HOW   TO    MAKE   VARIOUS    KINDS    OF    SUGAR. 

If  a  housekeeper  does  not  like  to  use  extracts,  flavored 
sugars  may  be  prepared,  and  they  are  then  ready  for  use 
when  it  is  not  convenient  to  obtain  the  fresh  fruits. 
These  sugars  must  be  placed  in  bottles  and  tightly  corked  ; 
self-sealing  jars  are  also  excellent  for  this  purpose. 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  607 

ORANGE  SUGAR. 

Cut  off  the  thin  yellow  rind  of  twelve  oranges.  Spread 
this  on  a  platter,  and  set  it  in  a  warm,  dry  place  to  dry. 
When  the  rind  is  dry,  which  will  be  in  about  forty-eight 
hours,  put  half  of  it  in  a  mortar  with  a  cupful  of  gran- 
ulated sugar.  Pound  the  mixture  to  a  powder,  rub  the 
latter  through  a  fine  sieve,  return  the  coarse  parts  left  in 
the  sieve  to  the  mortar,  and  pound  them  again.  When 
all  is  through  the  sieve,  put  the  balance  of  the  peel  and 
another  cupful  of  sugar  in  the  mortar,  and  proceed  as  be- 
fore. One  table-spoonful  of  this  sugar  will  flavor  a  quart 
of  custard  or  cream. 

ORANGE   ZEST. 

This  is  another  form  of  orange  sugar,  only  the  oily  por- 
tion of  the  peel  being  added  to  the  sugar.  Rub  lumps  of 
loaf  sugar  on  the  outside  of  an  orange  until  they  are 
coated  with  the  oil  from  the  peel,  using  enough  pressure 
to  break  the  oil  sacks.  Pound  the  sugar  in  a  mortar  and 
bottle  for  use. 

LEMON   ZEST. 

This  is  made  with  lemons  in  the  manner  directed  for 
orange  zest. 

ROSE   SUGAR. 

Spread  rose-leaves  on  a  flat  dish,  and  dry  them  in  the 
oven.  Put  a  pint  of  the  dried  leaves  in  a  mortar  with 
half  a  pint  of  granulated  sugar,  pound  the  whole  to  a 
powder,  rub  the  latter  through  a  sieve,  and  bottle  tightly. 

VANILLA    SUGAR. 

Cut  an  ounce  of  vanilla  beans  into  small  pieces,  mix 


608  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

them  with  a  pint  of  granulated  sugar,  and  pound  all  in  a 
mortar  until  the  mixture  is  like  flour.  Sift  through  a  fine 
sieve,  pound  what  will  not  pass  through,  and  sift  until  all 
is  fine.  Allow  a  table-spoonful  of  the  sugar  to  a  quart 
of  cream. 

Another  variety  of  vanilla  sugar  is  made  as  follows  : 
Cut  the  beans  in  small  pieces,  and  split  them  so  that  the 
seeds  may  be  exposed.  Place  an  ounce  of  the  beans  in 
a  small  jar  with  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar,  and  seal 
tightly.  Sift  the  sugar  as  required  for  use,  add  more  to 
the  jar,  keeping  it  closely  corked,  and  use  as  long  as 
there  is  any  flavor  in  the  sugar. 

HOW   TO   CREAM    BUTTER. 

If  the  butter  is  hard,  the  inside  of  the  bowl  in  which  it 
is  to  be  creamed  should  be  warmed.  Pour  hot  water 
into  the  bowl,  let  it  stand  for  about  a  minute,  pour  it  out 
and  wipe  the  bowl.  Put  in  the  butter,  and  cut  it  in  small 
pieces ;  work  it  on  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  until  it 
becomes  soft,  then  beat  it  until  it  is  light  and  smooth  by 
running  the  spoon  rapidly  in  a  circle.  After  two  minutes' 
work  the  butter  should  be  a  light  creamy  mass,  and  will 
then  be  ready  for  the  addition  of  any  other  ingredients, 
such  as  sugar  or  flour.  The  work  can  be  done  more 
quickly  and  with  less  fatigue  in  this  way  than  if  the  sugar 
were  added  at  once.  The  hot  water  should  not  stand 
long  enough  in  the  bowl  to  heat  the  outside,  and  the 
bowl  should  never  be  hot  enough  to  melt  the  butter. 
Butter  should  always  be  prepared  thus  for  cake  and  for 
pudding  sauces. 

HOW   TO    WASH    BUTTER    FOR    GREASING    PANS. 

Rinse  a  bowl  first  in  hot  water  and  then  in  cold.     Put 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  609 

a  piece  of  butter  into  the  bowl,  and  after  covering  it  with 
cold  water,  work  it  with  a  spoon  or  with  the  hands  until 
all  the  salt  has  been  washed  out.  Pour  off  the  water, 
and  press  out  any  water  that  may  remain  in  the  butter. 
Butter  thus  prepared  is  used  for  buttering  cake  or  bread 
pans. 

HOW   TO   SERVE   SARDINES. 

Regular  covered  dishes  for  serving  sardines  may  be 
purchased,  but  if  these  are  not  at  hand,  any  small  fancy 
dish  may  be  used.  Drain  the  oil  from  the  fish,  arrange 
the  fish  in  the  dish,  and  cover  them  with  fresh  olive  oil  or 
not,  according  to  taste.  Place  a  dish  of  quartered  lemons 
near  the  sardines  to  be  served  with  them. 

HOW   TO    ROLL   BREAD. 

Cut  off  all  the  crust  from  a  loaf  of  fresh  bread. 
Spread  a  thin  layer  of  butter  on  one  end  of  the  loaf,  and 
cut  off  this  end  in  as  thin  a  slice  as  possible,  using  a  very 
sharp  knife ;  then  roll  the  slice  up  with  the  buttered  side 
inward,  and  lay  it  on  a  napkin.  Continue  in  this  way 
until  the  requisite  number  of  rolls  are  made,  draw  the 
napkin  firmly  around  them,  pin  it,  and  set  the  whole  in  a 
cold  place  for  several  hours.  Rolled  bread  is  nice  to 
serve  with  raw  oysters  or  at  a  supper  or  luncheon  party. 

HOW  TO   DRY    BREAD-CRUMBS. 

\ 

Place  all  the  crusts  and  pieces  of  stale  bread  in  a  pan, 
and  set  the  pan  in  a  warm  oven  or  on  a  shelf  over  the 
range.  When  the  bread  is  so  dry  that  it  will  crumble 
between  the  fingers,  put  it  in  a  bag  made  of  strong  cloth 
or  ticking,  and  pound  the  bag  with  a  wooden  mallet  until 
39 


6 1 0  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-B  OOK. 

the  bread  is  reduced  to  powder.  Sift  the  powder  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  put  it  away  in  boxes  or  glass  jars.  It 
will  thus  always  be  ready  for  breading  purposes. 

HOW    TO    OBTAIN    ONION    JUICE. 

Pare  an  onion,  and  cut  it  into  four  pieces.  Put  one  or 
two  of  the  pieces  in  a  wooden  lemon-squeezer,  and 
squeeze  hard.  One  large  onion  should  yield  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  juice.  The  squeezer  should  not  be  used  for 
anything  else,  as  the  wood  retains  both  the  odor  and 
taste  of  the  onion.  If  the  squeezers  are  not  at  hand,  the 
onions  may  be  grated  and  the  shreds  pressed ;  but  this 
process  will  not  produce  so  much  juice  as  the  former  one. 

HOW    TO    MAKE    AND    USE    A    PASTRY    BAG. 

Cut  a  piece  of  strong  cotton  cloth  twelve  inches  square 
and  fold  it  from  two  opposite  corners,  so  as  to  give  it  a 
triangular  shape.  On  one  side  fell  the  two  edges  to- 
gether, thus  making  a  bag  shaped  like  a  "  dunce-cup "; 
and  cut  off  the  point  at  the  apex  just  enough  to  permit  a 
short  tin  tube,  somewhat  like  a  tailor's  thimble,  to  be 
pushed  through.  The  tube  for  eclairs  measures  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  smaller  end, 
that  for  lady  fingers  three-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  that  for 
meringues  and  kisses  half  an  inch.  The  tubes  used  for 
decorating  with  frosting  are  very  small. 

Fill  the  bag  with  the  mixture,  gather  the  cloth  together 
at  the  top  with  the  left  hand,  hold  the  point  of  the  tube 
close  to  the  pan  on  which  the  work  is  to  be  done,  and 
press  the  mixture  out  with  the  right  hand.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  have  two  or  three  of  these  bags  if  as  many  tubes 
are  needed,  for  the  tubes  should  fit  very  closely. 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  6 1 1 

HOW   TO    KEEP    ICE    FOR   A    SICK-ROOM. 

Tie  a  piece  of  coarse  white  flannel  over  a  pitcher, 
leaving  a  cup-shaped  depression  in  the  center  of  the 
pitcher.  Place  the  broken  ice  in  the  flannel,  and  cover  it 
tightly  with  thicker  flannel.  The  ice  may  be  kept  in  this 
way  all  night,  and  the  water  that  drips  from  it  may  be 
poured  off  as  wanted.  The  water  should  never  be 
allowed  to  rise  to  the  height  of  the  bag,  however. 

HOW   TO    CHOP   SUET. 

Cut  the  suet  into  pieces,  remove  the  membrane, 
sprinkle  the  suet  with  flour,  and  chop  it  in  a  cool  place. 
It  will  not  become  soft  and  sticky  when  treated  in  this 
way. 

HOW    TO    MAKE    CLARET   VINEGAR. 

Claret-wine  when  sour,  maybe  made  into  excellent  vine- 
gar in  this  way.  Place  the  wine  in  a  small  cask  or  jug,  and 
add  a  pint  of  "  mother  "  to  every  four  quarts  of  wine.  If 
this  is  not  possible,  a  twenty-four  inch  square  of  common 
brown  paper  may  be  used  ;  but  the  vinegar  will  ripen 
less  quickly  than  if  the  "  mother "  from  other  vinegar 
were  available.  Set  the  cask  in  the  sun,  uncorked  ;  and 
tie  a  piece  of  thin  muslin  cheese-cloth  or  tarlatan  over  the 
cork-opening.  It  should  be  ready  to  use  in  five  or  six 
weeks. 

HOW   TO   MAKE   TARRAGON    VINEGAR. 

Put  two  bunches  of  fresh  tarragon  in  a  quart  present 
ing  jar,  fill  the  jar  with  white-wine  vinegar,  cover  tightly, 
and  set  it  away  in  a  cool,  dark  place  for  two  or  three 
weeks  5  then  strain,  and  bottle.  Fill  the  jar  once  more 


6l2  THE  PATTERN  COOK-BOOK. 

with  tresh  vinegar,  and  set  it  away.  This  will  be  ready 
to  use  in  a  month,  but  it  .need  not  be  strained  until  the 
first  is  used.  This  vinegar  is  delicious  in  any  kind  of 
salad  and  in  many  sauces. 

HOW    TO    KEEP    FOOD    IN    THE    ICE-CHEST. 

Foods  that  have  little  odor,  and  those  that  absorb 
odors  readily  should  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  re- 
frigerator, while  all  edibles  possessing  a  strong  odor 
should  be  kept  on  the  top  shelves.  Sour  milk  or  cream 
should  be  rigidly  excluded  from  the  ice-chest,  and  salad 
dressings,  Tartar  sauce  and  celery  should  be  covered 
closely,  or  they  will  flavor  everything  that  is  shut  in  with 
them.  Pineapples,  strawberries  and  raspberries  should 
not  be  placed  in  the  common  ice-chest  with  milk  or 
cream.  Butter,  milk,  cream  and  other  delicate  foods 
may  be  kept  in  the  lower  part  of  refrigerators  in  which 
there  is  a  circulation  of  dry  air,  and  the  fruits,  vegetables, 
etc.,  with  stronger  flavors  and  odors  maybe  put  on  the  top 
shelves.  If  this  arrangement  is  carefully  observed, 
there  will  be  little  danger  of  one  sort  of  food  absorbing 
the  odor  or  flavor  of  anotker.  A  dish  of  powdered  char- 
coal should  always  be  kept  on  one  of  the  top  shelves  of 
the  refrigerator,  as  it  is  an  excellent  absorbent  of  odors. 
It  should  be  changed  every  few  days.  The  refrigerator 
should  above  all  be  maintained  in  a  perfect  state  of 
cleanliness;  and  with  the  above  precautions  there  need 
be  no  trouble  in  preserving  all  kinds  of  food  in  a  properly 
wholesome  condition.  People  who  live  in  flats  are  espe- 
cially dependent  upon  this  mode  of  keeping  food,  and  too 
much  care  and  vigilance  cannot  be  exercised  to  have  the 
ice-chest  always  sweet  and  healthful. 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  613 

HOW   TO   DISSOLVE  GELATINE. 

If  gelatine  is  covered  with  water  and  placed  on  the 
hearth  or  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  it  will  melt  in  fifteen 
.  minutes ;  but  it  will  be  strong-flavored  and  will  impart  a 
gluey  odor  to  anything  in  which  it  is  used.  But  if  it  is 
soaked  in  cold  water  for  an  hour,  or  even  longer,  and 
boiling  water  or  milk  is  then  poured  upon  it,  it  will  at 
once  dissolve  and  will  rarely  have  an  unpleasant  taste  or 
odor.  Here  is  a  good  rule  for  dissolving  a  box  of  gela- 
tine :  Place  the  gelatine  in  a  bowl,  and  pour  over  it  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water.  Cover  the  vessel,  and  let  it  stand  in 
a  cool  place  for  at  least  an  hour — two  hours  will  not  be 
too  long.  When  ready  to  use  the  gelatine,  add  half  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  or  the  same  quantity  of  boiling 
milk  if  the  latter  is  to  be  used.  Stir  for  one  minute,  when 
the  gelatine  will  be  wholly  dissolved. 

HOW   TO    PREPARE    MUSTARD    FOR   TABLE   USE. 

Place  the  dry  mustard  in  a  tea-cup,  and  gradually  add 
boiling  water  sufficient  to  make  a  thick  paste,  stirring 
well  until  the  latter  is  perfectly  smooth.  Then  put  in 
enough  strong  vinegar  to  thin  the  paste  to  the  desired 
consistency,  and  season  with  salt. 

LIME-WATER,    AND    ITS   USES. 

Place  a  piece  of  unslaked  lime  in  a  bottle,  and  fill 
with  cold  water.  The  quantity  of  lime  used  is  im- 
material, as  the  water  will  take  up  only  a  certain 
amount.  Cork  the  bottle  tightly,  and  set  it  in  the  cellar 
or  some  cool,  dry  place ;  it  will  be  ready  to  use  in  a  few 
minutes.  Use  only  the  clear  portion  of  the  liquid. 


6 1 4  THE  PA  TTERN  COOK-BOOK:. 

When  this  has  been  poured  off,  more  water  may  be  added 
to  utilize  the  rest  of  the  lime. 

The  uses  of  lime-water  are  many.  A  tea-spoonful 
diluted  with  milk  or  water  is  a  reliable  remedy  for 
summer  troubles  in  children.  Milk  that  is  just  turning 
sour  may  be  restored  with  lime-water,  half  a  tea-cupful 
being  allowed  to  a  pint  of  milk.  A  small  quantity  of 
lime-water  will  prevent  the  possible  souring  of  cream  or 
milk  that  may  be  needed  for  the  next  day.  It  will  also 
sweeten  and  purify  bottles  that  have  contained  milk  ;  and 
it  is  sometimes  used  in  bread-sponge  to  prevent  the  bread 
becoming  sour.  Lime-water  may  be  bought  very  cheaply 
at  the  drug  stores. 

HOW   TO    DESTROY    RED   ANTS. 

Tie  a  little  sulphur  in  a  silk  bag,  and  lay  it  in  some 
place  which  the  ants  frequent.  If  a  bag  is  always  kept 
in  a  closet  or  chest  of  drawers  these  receptacles  will  be 
free  from  the  little  pests.  A  bag  of  sulphur  suspended 
in  a  bird-cage  will  keep  ants  and  other  insects  from  the 
bird. 

HOW   TO    MAKE    SOFT    SOAP. 

All  strong  flavored  fats,  such  as  that  from  mutton, 
goose  or  turkey,  should  be  fried  out  and  strained  while 
still  fresh  and  sweet.  Keep  this  strained  fat  by  itself  to 
use  when  soft  soap  is  to  be  made.  It  is  a  good  idea  to 
strain  it  into  five-pound  lard  cans,  as  it  will  thus  be  easy 
to  weigh,  and  measure  it  at  the  time  of  making  the  soap. 
To  make  nine  gallons  of  soap  put  in  a  large  kettle 
a  pound  can  of  pure  potash  and  a  quart  of  water. 
Place  the  kettle  on  the  fire,  and  boil  the  water  for  fifteen 
minutes  \  then  add  five  pounds  of  grease,  and  boil  slowly 


THINGS  WORTH  KNOWING.  615 

for  an  hour,  stirring  frequently  with  a  wooden  stick.  At 
the  end  of  the  hour  pour  the  boiling  mixture  into  a  large 
soap-tub,  and  stir  into  it  two  gallons  of  hot  water. 
Fifteen  minutes  afterward  add  two  gallons  more  of  hot 
water,  stir  well,  and  add  four  and  a-half  gallons  of  water, 
either  hot  or  cold.  Stir  the  soap  three  or  four  times  dur- 
ing the  next  hour ;  when  it  grows  cold  it  will  be  thick  and 
white. 

HOW   TO    MAKE    BAR    SOAP. 

Six  pounds  of  washing  soda. 
Three  pounds  of  unslaked  lime. 
Six  gallons  of  water. 
Six  pounds  of  clear  fat. 

Place  the  soda  and  the  lime  together,  pour  over  them 
four  gallons  of  the  water,  and  stir  well.  Let  the  liquid 
stand  until  perfectly  clear,  then  drain  it  off,  place  it  over 
the  fire,  add  the  fat,  and  boil  until  the  mixture  begins  to 
harden  (which  will  be  in  about  two  hours),  stirring  almost 
continuously.  Meantime,  after  draining  the  four  gallons 
of  water  from  the  lime  and  soda,  add  the  remaining  two 
gallons  of  water  to  the  sediment,  stir  well,  and  when  this 
liquid  is  clear,  drain  it  off  also.  While  the  soap  is  boil- 
ing, thin  it  with  this  water,  adding  a  little  at  a  time,  as  the 
soap  puffs  up  as  if  to  boil  over.  Try  the  thickness  by 
cooling  a  little  on  a  plate,  and  put  in  a  handful  of  salt 
just  before  removing  the  soap  from  the  fire.  Wet  a  tub 
with  cold  water — to  prevent  the  soap  sticking,  turn 
the  latter  in,  and  when  solid,  cut  it  into  bars,  placing 
them  on  a  board  to  dry. 


INDEX. 


AIR,  13. 

Almonds,  604. 

Ants  (red),  How  to  destroy,  614. 

Apple  Water,  583. 

Artichokes,  255-256. 

Asparagus,  256-258. 

Au  court  Bouillon— To  boil,  99. 

BACON,  199. 

With  Liver,  164. 
Bain  Marie  (cut),  35. 
Baking.    Time-table  for,  69. 
Barley  water,  584. 
Basket,  Wire  (cut),  38. 
Beans. 

Boston  Baked,  197-198. 

Lima,  258. 

Creamed,  259. 

String  259. 

In  milk,  259. 
Beef. 

A  la  mode,  150. 

Balls,  150. 

Braised,  144. 

Broth,  578. 

Cooked  (Uses  for),  150. 

Corned,  148. 

Dried  (creamed),  149. 

Essence,  577. 

Fillet  of,  143. 

Hash,  155. 

Heart,  148-149. 

In  Tomato,  151. 

Juice,  577. 

Kidney,  156. 

Liver  Stew,  155. 

On  Toast,  152. 

Pot  Roast,  145. 

Raw — How  to  prepare,  586. 

Roast,  with  Yorkshire   Pudding, 
142. 

Escalloped  with  Macaroni,  153. 

Soup  with  Barley,  84. 

Steak,"  Stuffed,  146. 

Steak,  with  Onions,  147. 

Tea,  575,  576. 

Tongue,  156. 
Beets,  260. 
Beverages,  554-564- 
Birds  (small),  232-234. 
Biscuit,  358-360. 
Blue -Fish,  103. 
Boiling,  62. 


Boiling. 

Time-Table  for,  69. 
Boning,  67. 
Bouillon,  80-81. 
Bracket,  Soap  (cut),  45 
Brains,  Scalloped,  169. 
Braising,  65. 
Braising  Pan  (cut),  38. 
Bread,  332. 

Breakfast,  350. 

Corn,  349. 

Compressed  Yeast,  345. 

Dry  Yeast,  343. 

Entire  Wheat,  346. 

Gems,  362. 

Graham,  347. 

How  to  roll,  609. 

Kneading,  338. 

Lightning  Yeast,  343. 

Moulding,  339. 

Pudding,  441-460. 

Raised  Brown,  348. 

Rye,  347, 
Sponge,  336. 

Rye  and  Indian,  348 

Stale,  356. 

Stuffing  of,  101. 

To  warm  over  stale,  357. 
Bread  crumbs  —  How  to  dry,  609. 
Broiler,  Oyster  (cut),  35. 
Broiling,  60. 

Time-Table  for,  69. 
Broths,  577-579- 
Brunswick  Stew,  236. 
Brussels  Sprouts,  260. 
Buns,  353-354- 
Butter,  608. 

CABBAGE. 

Creamed,  304. 

Hot  Slaw,  262. 

In  Milk,  261. 

Salad,  305. 

With  Corned  Beef,  261. 
Cake. 

Angel's  Food,  524. 

Buttermilk,  540. 

Caramel,  543. 

Caroline,  530. 


Chocolate,  535. 
Coffee,  Spiced,  524-525. 
Cocoanut  Loaf,  528. 


Coffee,  Spic 
Cocoanut  L 
Cream  Loaf,  529. 


6i8 


INDEX. 


Cake. 

Cream  Molasses,  539. 

Cream  Pudding  of,  429. 

Cup,  536. 

Dough,  537. 

Douglass,  534. 

Eggless,  535. 

English  White  Mountain,  524. 

Fillings  for,  544~549- 

Frostings  for,  549-553. 

Fruit,  519-52!!. 

Ginger,  512. 

Gold,  539. 

Graham,  529, 

Jelly,  532-533- 

Johnnie,  377. 

Layer,  54Q-544- 

Loaf,  528-529. 
Raised,  536. 

Marble,  533. 

Nut,  538-530- 

Pound,  527. 

Shellbark,  530. 

Silver,  539. 

Spiced,  524-526. 

Sponge,  521-523. 

Stale  (pudding  of),  436. 

White,  526. 

"  i,  2,  3,  4,"  536. 
Cakes. 

Cocoanut  Drop,  538. 

Cup,  in  Gem  pans,  531. 


Drop,  532. 
Flannel,  377. 


Griddle,  372-375. 
Calf  (cut),  50. 
Calf's  Head,  167-168. 
Carrots,  262. 
Cauliflower,  263. 
Celery. 

Sauce,  208. 

Soup,  93. 

Stewed,  269. 

Stewed  with  Brown  Sauce,  270. 

Stuffing,  208. 
Charlotte  Russe,  486-488. 
Cheese  Dishes,  308. 

Au  Gratin,  312. 

Cottage,  314. 

Head,  189. 

Puffs,  313. 

Salad,  305. 

Straws,  313. 

Souffle",  311. 

Toasted,  315. 
Chicken. 

A  1'Italienne,  225. 

Baked — Camping  Style,  217. 

Boiled,  218. 

Boned,  218. 

Boudin  h.  la  Reine,  225. 

Braised,  213. 


Chicken. 

Broiled,  216. 

Broth,  577. 

Creamed,  219. 

Croquettes,  220. 

Dishes,  224. 

For  Traveller's  Lunch,  219. 

Fricassee,  211-213. 

Fried  Spring,  214-215. 

Pie,  221-222, 

Pressed,  219. 

Roast,  214. 

Salad,  298, 

Sandwiches,  224. 

Smothered,  215. 
Chips  for  Dyspeptics,  586. 
Chocolate,  560-561. 

Blancmange,  414. 

Corn-starch,  417. 

How  to  Scrape,  604. 

Whips,  494. 
Chops,  French,  178. 
Chowder. 

Clam,  122. 

Fish,  109. 

Oyster,  121. 
Churn  (whip)  (cut),  46. 
Clams,  121- 122. 
Codfish,  108-109. 
Coffee,  555-558. 

Mill  (cut),  34. 
Cookies,  503. 

Chocolate,  508. 

Cream,  506. 

Ginger,  510-511. 

Jumbles,  508. 

Mother's  Jumbles,  508. 

Sour  Milk,  507. 

Sugar,  505-506. 

Without  Eggs,  507. 
Cook's  Knife  (cut),  34. 
Cooky  Cutters  (cut),  33. 
Cottage  Cheese,  314-315. 
Corn. 

Bread,  349. 

Canned,  266. 

Dodgers,  376. 

Fritters,  268-269. 

Gems,  363. 

Green,  264-265. 

Muffins,  366. 
Rye,  368. 

Mush,  386. 
-    Pudding,  266. 

Salad  (Fetticus),  268. 

Soup,  92. 

With  Tomatoes,  267. 
Corned  Beef,  148. 

Hash,  155. 
Corn  Meal. 

Griddle  Cakes,  373. 

Pone,  377. 


INDEX. 


Corn  Meal. 

Pudding,  424. 

Waffles,  370. 
Corn-starch.  ' 

Blancmange,  421. 
Crabs,  128-130. 
Craw-Fish,  131. 
Cream. 

American,  494. 

Bavarian,  489, 
Apricot,  492. 
Orange,  492. 
Pineapple,  495. 

Cabbage  Salad,  304. 

Cookies,  506. 

Filling  for  Cake,  545. 

For  Cake  Cream  Pudding,  430. 

For  Puffs,  453. 

Gravy,  187-196. 

Loaf  Cake,  529. 

Molasses  Cake,  539. 

Pie,  404. 

Puffs,  452. 

Salad  Dressing,  296-297. 

Sauce,  137-451-485. 

Spanish,  493. 

Tapioca  Pudding,  428. 

Toast,  581. 

Whipped,  471-486. 
Creams,  481-485. 
Croquettes. 

Chicken,  220. 

Fish,  113. 

Mutton,  180. 

Sweetbread,  172. 
Crullers,  382. 
Cucumbers,  270-271. 
Currant  Water,  483. 
Currants  (English)— To  clean,  605. 
Cush  i  la  Creme,  112. 
Custard. 

Baked,  483. 

Cocoanut,  407. 

Frozen,  469. 

Lemon  Pie,  400. 

Meringue,  482. 

Pie,  406. 

Sauce,  416. 

Soft,  448-456-481-483. 

Souffle,  484. 
Cutters  (cuts),  33. 

DANDELIONS,  272. 
Deer  (cut),  53. 
Directions  (Plain),  57. 
Dish  Drainer  (cut),  32. 
Doughnuts,  379-381. 
Duck,  228-230. 

To  choose,  55. 
Dust-Pan  (cut),  44. 

EELS,  FRIED,  107. 


'g§Balls,  So. 

Nests,  324, 

Sauce,  140-435. 

Uncooked— To  prepare,  586. 
Egg-Beater  (cut),  36. 
Egg  Nogg,  585. 
Egg  Plant,  273. 
Egg  Whip  (cut),  36, 
Eggs. 

Baked.  321-322. 

Boiled,  317. 

Creamed,  323', 

Deviled,  321. 

Fried,  323. 

In  Tomato,  330, 

Pickled,  324. 

Poached ,  3*8, 

Scrambled,  319, 

Spanish,  319. 

Stuffed,  325-326. 

To  choose  (Hovr),  56. 

To  Preserve,  3*7. 

Vermicelli,  320. 
Endive  (creamed),  274. 

FARINA-KETTLE  (cut),  41. 
Fat— To  clarify,  63. 
Fillings  for  Cake,  544-549. 
Fish. 

A  la  Reine,  113. 

Baked,  100. 
With  Tomato,  103. 

Boiled,  98. 

Broiled,  107. 

Chowder,  109. 

Croquettes,  113. 

Fillets  of,  98. 

Fried,  106. 

Kettle  (cut),  36. 

Other  modes  of  dressing,  108. 

Rechauffe-,  114. 

Remnants,  112. 

Salad,  301. 

Sauces  for,  134. 

Scissors  (cut),  46. 

Shell,  115. 

To  choose,  55. 

To  clean,  96. 

To  skin,  97. 
Floating  Island,  482. 
Flour,  332-335. 
Fluted  Knife  (cut),  34. 
Forcemeat  Balls,  79. 
Fowls,  230-231. 

To  choose,  55. 
Fritters,  382. 

Corn,  268-269. 

Clam,  121. 

Oyster  Plant,  286. 

Parsnip,  282. 

Pea,  284. 


62O 


COOK  BOOK. 


Fritters. 
Plain,  383. 
Potato,  247. 
Salsify,  286. 
Sour  Milk,  383. 
Frogs'  Legs,  m. 
Frozen  Dishes,  461. 
Frostings  for  Cake,  549-551. 
Fruit.    Cooked. 
Apples,  569-571- 
Pears  (spiced),  571. 
Prunes,  571. 

Griddle  Cakes. 
Bread  and  Buckwheat,  q 
Buckwheat,  374. 
Cornmeal,  373. 
French,  375. 
(jraham,  374. 
Rice,  373. 
Sour  Milk,  372 
Sweet  Milk,  37i. 
Grouse,  231-232. 
Gruels,  579-581. 

Quinces,  570. 
Rhubarb,  572. 
Frozen. 
Apricots,  480. 

HALIBUT. 
a  la  Creole,  104. 
Carbonade  of,  io<;. 
Ham. 

Oranges,  480. 

Fried,  196 

Peaches,  479. 
Raspberries,  479. 
Strawberries,  479. 
How  to  ice  for  serving,  569. 
How  to  serve. 
Apples,  566. 
Bananas,  566. 
Berries,  567. 
Cantaloupes,  569. 
Currants,  568. 
Grapes,  568. 

With  Veal,  159. 
How  to  boil,  195. 
How  to  cure,  194, 
How  to  smoke  194 
Omelet,  33o. 
Sandwiches,  ig7. 
Hamburg  Steak,  i47. 
Hares—  To  choose,  56. 
Hash,  154-155-165. 
Head-cheese  (pork),  189. 
rieat,  13. 

Oranges,  568. 
Peaches,  566. 
Pears,  567. 
Pineapple,  567. 
Pomegranate,  567. 
Watermelon,  568. 

Hoe-Cake,  376. 

[CK  —  How  to  keep  for  sick  ro( 
Ice  Chest—  How  to  keep  food 
ces,476-477. 
Ice  Cream. 

Jellies  of,  502. 
Pudding,  431. 
Frying^  63. 
Time-Table  for,  60. 
Pans  (cuts),  38-39. 

Bisque,  465. 
Chocolate,  466-468. 
Lemon,  464. 
Neapolitan,468. 
Orange,  465. 

GAME,  199. 
Geese—  To  choose,  55,  226. 
Gelatine. 

Peach,  466. 
Philadelphia,  463. 
Pistachio,  465. 
Vanilla,  464-46^ 

Frosting  for  Cake,  553. 
How  to  dissolve,  613. 
Pudding,  415. 
Gems. 

With  Arrowroot,  470 
With  Eggs,  467. 
With  Gelatine,  47o. 
How  to  freeze,  462. 

Bread,  362. 

ndian  Meal  (cornmeal). 

Cornmeal,  363. 
Graham,  361-362, 

Gruel,  580. 
Pudding,  424-457. 

Rice,  364. 
Tea,  363. 

ELLIES. 

Gingerbread,  503-509. 
Soft,  512. 
Spiced,  513. 

Fruit,  502. 
Gelatine,  497. 

Sugar,  513. 
(joose,  226-227. 
Gravy. 

CALE,  274. 
Kettle,  (cut)  36-41-44- 
Kitchen,  The,  23. 

Cream,  196. 

Care  of,  26. 

Giblet,  205. 

Lists,  30-31. 

Griddle  Cakes. 
Bread,  372. 

-AMB,  (cut),  .52. 
Broiled  Breast  of,  183. 

611. 


INDEX. 


621 


Lamb. 

Chops,  183. 

Roast,  182. 
Lard,  199. 
Larding,  (cuts),  65-66. 

Needles  (cut),  45. 
Lemonade,  584. 
Lentils,  275. 

Lime  Water  and  its  uses,  613. 
Liver. 

Bacon  and,  164. 

Beef  (Stewed),  155. 

Baked  with  stuffing,  166. 

Creamed,  165. 

Hash,  165. 
Lobster  Salad,  300. 

Sauce, 141. 

MACARONI,  275-276. 

And  Escalloped  beef,  153. 
Mackerel,  no. 

Baked,  106. 

Spiced,  114. 

Measuring  Cup  (cut),  35. 
Meat,  47. 

For  stock,  72. 

Pie,  153. 

Rest  (cut),  37. 
Meats. 

Measurements— Table  of,  596. 
Menus. 

Afternoon  Tea,  593. 

Autumn  Day,  590-591. 

Children's  Birthday  Party,  594. 

Christmas  Dinner,  589. 

Company  Dinner,  593. 

Company  Luncheon,  592. 

Evening  Card  Party  593. 

Invalid,  587. 

Lenten  Day,  592. 

Spring  Day,  589,  590. 

Summer  Day,  590. 

Table  for,  594. 

Thanksgiving  Dinner,  588. 

Wine,  564. 

Winter  Day,  591,  592. 
Milk. 

Punch,  585. 

Sauce,  415. 

Toast,  581. 

Mince  Meat  for  Pies,  410-412. 
Moulds,  (cuts),  40-41. 
Mousses,  472. 
Muffin  Pan  (cut),  35. 
Muffins,  365-368. 
Mush,  383-386. 
Mushrooms,  277-279. 

Sauce,  144-210. 
Mussels,  131. 
Mustard. 

Cream  Sauce  of,  141. 

How  to  prepare  for  table  use,  613. 


Mutton,  173. 

A  la  Venison,  175. 
And  Oyster  Sausages,  181. 
Broth,  578. 
Croquettes,  180. 
Cutlets,  179. 
Juice,  577. 
Leg,  174-175- 
Scalloped,  178. 
Shoulder  (stuffed),  176. 
Stew,  177. 

NOODLES  for  Soup,  94. 

OATMEAL. 

Gruel,  579. 

Mush,  384. 
Okra,  279. 
Omelets,  327-331. 
Onions,  280-281. 

Juice  of — How  to  obtain,  610. 
Ox  (cut  of)  49. 
Oyster.  " 

And  Mutton  Sausages,  181. 

Broiler  (cut),  35. 

Chowder,  121. 

Omelet,  329. 

Plant  (Salsify),  286. 

Sauce,  140. 

Soup,  94. 

Stuffing,  101-206. 
Oysters,  115-120. 

To  choose,  56. 

PANADA,  582. 
Pancakes,  371-375. 
Parsnips,  281-282. 
Partridges,  231-232. 
Paste,  Puff. 

American,  391. 

Careme's,  389. 

Chopped,  397. 

How  to  Bake,  393. 

How  to  shape  for. 

Patties,  395. 

Pies  with  two  crusts,  393. 
Pies  with  one  crust,  394. 
Rissoles,  396. 
Tarts,  395. 
Tart  Wells,  395. 
Vol  au  Vents,  396. 
Jigger  (cut),  46. 
Plain  with  Butter,  396. 
Plain  with  Lard,  398. 
Pastry,  388. 
Pastry  Bag— How  to  make  and  use, 

610. 

Peas,  282-284. 
Peppers — Stuffed,  163. 
Pheasants,  231-232. 
Pies. 

Apple,  398. 


622 


COOK  BOOK. 


Pies. 

Blackberry,  408. 

Canned  Peach  Meringue,  405. 

Cherry,  407. 

Chicken,  221-222. 

Chocolate,  405. 

Cocoanut  Custard,  407. 

Cream,  404. 

Custard,  406. 

Delicate  Puff,  409. 

Huckleberry,  408. 

Lemon,  400. 

Lemon,  Custard,  400. 

Lemon,  with  Bread,  401. 
With  Cornstarch,  401. 

Meat,  153.  - 

Pumpkin,  402. 

Rhubarb  (Pie  Plant)  409-572. 

Shepherd's,  182. 

Squash,  403. 

Pie-Plant  (Rhubarb),  409-572. 
Pig  (cut  of),  54. 

(Little)— Roasted,  184. 
Pig's  Feet. 

Souse  of,  188. 

Fried,  189. 
Pigeons,  234. 
Popovers,  365. 
Pork. 

And  Beans,  197. 

Chops,  187. 

How  to  Salt  or  Pickle,  193. 

Roast,  185-186. 

Sausage,  191-192. 

Salt— Fried    with   Cream   Gravy, 
187. 

Steak,  187. 

Tenderloin,  187. 
Potato. 

Balls,  249. 

Birds  roasted  in,  254. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing,  296. 

Masher  (cut  of),  32. 

Puff,  252. 

Salad,  303. 

Stuffing,  226. 

Yeast,  342. 
Potatoes. 

Au  Gratin,  249. 

Baked,  246. 

Boiled,  245. 

Creamed  with  Parsley,  248. 

Fried,  252. 
French,  251. 

Fritters,  247. 

Lyonnaise,  253. 

Mashed,  246. 

New — How  to  cook,  253 

Omelet,  248. 

Princess,  247. 

Roasted  under  Meat,  250. 

Saratoga,  251. 


Potatoes. 

Stuffed,  250. 
Sweet,  054, 
Poultry,  199. 
Profiteroles  for  Soup,  79. 
Puddings. 

Apple,  423-438. 

Roly  Poly,  437. 

Snow,  431. 

Tapioca,  443. 
Batter,  429. 
Bird's-Nest,  438. 
Black,  443. 
Blackberry,  430. 
Boiled,  422-457-460. 
Bread,  441-460. 
Cake  Cream,  429. 
Cherry,  442. 
Chocolate,  439. 

Blanc-mange,  414. 

Corn-starch,  417. 

Custard,  446. 
Christmas  Plum,  458. 
Cocoanut,  422. 
Corn-starch  (Simple),  421. 
Cottage,  445. 
Cream  Puffs,  452. 
Cream  Tapioca,  428. 
Currant  (simple),  458. 
Curate,  432. 
English  Plum,  439. 
Estella,  420. 
Fancy,  444. 
Farina,  433. 
Frozen  Rice,  474. 
Fruit  (Simple),  431. 
Gelatine,  415. 
Graham,  434. 
How  to  boil,  456. 
Indian,  424-457. 
Lemon,  419-426. 
Minute,  447. 
Orange,  418. 
Plum,  439-458. 

Puffs  with  Orange  Sauce,  451. 
Queen  of,  436. 
Rice,  422. 
Silver,  453. 
Sponge  Batter,  450. 
Stale  Cake,  436- 
Strawberry,  454. 

Puff,  435- 
Suet,  425. 
Swedish,  447. 
Tapioca,  420-428-443. 
Tipsy,  448. 
Webster,  459. 
Yorkshire,  143. 
Pudding  Sauces,  415-474. 
Puff  Pie  (Delicate),  409. 
Puff  Pudding  (Strawberry),  435, 
Puffs,  313,  452. 


INDEX. 


623 


Punch. 

Milk,  585. 
Roman,  477. 


QUAIL,  231-232. 

RABBITS,  235. 

To  choose,  56. 
Raisins,  How  to  stone,  605. 
Ramekins,  312. 
Rare-bit,  Welsh,  310-311. 
Rhubarb  (Pie  plant),  4°9-572- 
Rice. 

Baked,  285. 

Boiled,  284. 

Curry  of,  285. 

Gems,  364. 

Griddle  Cakes,  373. 

Hash,  154. 

Jelly,  586. 

Muffins,  368. 

Pudding,  422-474. 

Water,  584. 
Roasting,  58. 

Time-table  for,  69. 

SALADS,  292. 
Fish,  301. 
Lettuce,  304. 
Lobster,  300. 
Potato,  303. 
Sandwiches,  306. 
Tomato,  302. 
Vegetable,  301. 
Notes  on,  306. 
Vegetables  for,  306. 
Washer  (cut  of),  39. 
Salad  Dressing,  293-298. 
Salmon  (canned),  in. 
Salsify  (Oyster  Plant),  286. 
Sandwiches. 

Chicken,  224. 
Ham,  197. 
Salad,  306. 

Sardines,  How  to  serve,  609. 
Sauces. 

For  Fish,  134. 
Bechamel,  140. 
Brown,  136. 
Cream,  137. 
Drawn  Butter,  136. 
Egg,  140. 
Hollandaise,  138. 
Lobster,  141. 
Maitre  d'Hotel,  139. 
Mustard  Cream,  141. 
Oyster,  140. 
Tartare,  139. 
Tomato,  138. 
White,  137. 


Sauces. 

For  Meats. 
Apple,  570. 
Brain,  168. 
Caper,  174. 
Celery,  208. 
Chestnut,  207. 
Cranberry,  206. 
Mint,  182. 

Mushroom,  144-210. 
Onion,  157. 
Spanish,  179. 
For  Puddings. 
Brandy,  440-448. 
Chocolate,'422. 
Cream,  430-451-4854 
Custard,  416. 
Soft,  448- 
Egg,  435- 
Fancy,  445. 
Hard,  429. 
Lemon,  428. 
Milk,  415. 
Montrose,  474. 
Nutmeg,  447. 
Orange,  451. 
Snow,  426. 
Soft  Custard,  448. 
Strawberry,  436. 
Sugar  444. 
Vanilla,  441. 
Wine,  432-434-460. 
Sausages. 

Casings,  192. 

Mutton  and  Oyster,  181. 

Pork,  191. 

To  Cook,  192. 
Sauteing,  64. 
Scales  (cut),  40. 
Scollops,  131. 
Scrapple,  190-191. 
Shad  (baked),  103. 
Sheep  (cut  of),  51. 
Shell-Fish,  115. 
Shrimps,  131. 
Sink  Rack  (cut),  32. 
Snipe,  232-233. 
Soap. 

Bar,  How  to  make,  615. 
Bracket  (cut),  45. 
Shaker  (eut),  45. 
Soft,  How  to  make,  614. 
Sorbet,  477. 
Souffle. 

Cheese,  311. 
Custard,  484. 
Orange,  473.  < 

Soup. 

With  Stock,  71-89. 
Without  Stock,  90-95. 
Souse,  188. 
Spaghetti,  275. 


624 


COOK  BOOK. 


Spinach,  287. 
Squabs,  234. 
Squash,  288. 
Squirrels,  236. 
Steaming,  67. 
Stock,  74-77-89. 
Stuffing. 

Cracker,  101. 

For  Calf's  Liver,  166. 

For  Goose. 

Oyster,  101. 

Potato,  226. 

For  Roast  Pig,  185. 

For  Turkey. 
Celery,  208. 
Chestnut,  207. 
Oyster,  206. 

Stale  Bread,  101. 
Succotash,  266. 
Suet. 

How  to  chop,  611. 

Pudding,  425. 
Sugar,  605-607. 

Sauce,  444. 
Sweetbreads,  170-172. 

TAPIOCA,  420-443. 
Tart. 

Almond,  505. 

Apple,  399-504. 

Cocoanut,  505. 

Shells,  503.     " 

Wells,  To  shape,  395. 
Tea,  554- 

Terrapin,  132-133. 
Toast,  581-584. 

Beef  on,  152. 
Tomato. 

Beef  Stewed  in,  151. 

Eggs  in,  320. 

Italian,  289. 

Omelet,  329. 

Salad,  302. 

Sauce,  138. 

Soup,  90. 

Spanish,  290. 
Tomatoes. 

Baked,  290. 

Corn  with,  267. 

Macaroni  with,  276. 

Stewed,  289. 
Tongue  (Beef),  156. 
Tripe,  157. 

Trussing  Needles  (cut),  45. 
Turkey. 

Boiled,  207. 

Braised,  209. 

Chestnut  Sauce  for,  207. 

Cranberry  Sauce  for,  206. 

Roast,  204. 

Soup,  88. 

Stuffings  for,  206-208. 


Turkey. 

To  choose,  54. 

Warmed  over,  210. 
Turkish  Soup,  85. 
Turnips,  291. 

UTENSILS  for  Kitchen,  28. 
Care  of,  26. 

VEAL. 

And  Ham,  158. 
Breast  (stuffed),  158. 
Cu  'ets,  159. 
/.icandeau  of,  164. 
Jellied,  162. 
Loaf,  161. 
Roast,  158. 

Stew  and  Dumplings,  160. 
With  Peppers,  163. 
Vegetable  Cutters  (cats),  33. 
Vegetables. 

For  Salads,  306. 
In  Omelet,  329. 
Kind  to  serve  with. 
Beef  (corned),  242. 
Beef  (fresh),  242. 
Fish,  242. 
Game,  243. 
Lamb,  242. 
Mutton,  242. 
Pork,  243. 
Poultry,  243. 
Veal,  243. 
To  choose,  56. 
Venison,  237,  238. 
Vinegar,  611. 
Vol-au-Vents,  How  to  shape,  396. 

WAFFLES,  368-370. 
Waffle  Iron  (cut),  37. 
Water,  13. 
Whey. 

Cream  of  Tartar,  583. 

Lemon,  583. 

Orange,  583. 

Wine,  582. 

Whip  Churn  (cut),  46. 
Whipped  Cream,  471-486. 
Wine. 

How  to  serve  it,  564. 

Jelly,  500. 

Menu,  564. 

Sauce,  432,  434,  460. 

Whey,  582. 
Woodcock,  233. 

YEAST,  335. 

Hop,  340. 

Lightning,  341. 

Raw  Potato,  342. 
Yorkshire  Pudding,  143. 

ZEST,  607. 


